^ 

^\l> 

o  !^^^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


A. 


^<f 


^ 


^^ 


.^^ 


1.0 


1.1 


Ui|21   125 
■ttl&i   |22 

s;  i£o  12.0 

u 


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6"     

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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRIIT 

WnSTm.N.Y.  USM 

(716)I72-4S03 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHiyA/ICIVlH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inttltuta  for  Historical  IMicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductiont  hiatoriquaa 


:\ 


Tachniral  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquas 


Ttia  Inctituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibllographicaily  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


□    Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I   Covars  damagad/ 


D 


D 


n 


D 


n 


Couvartura  andommagia 


Covars  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastauria  at/ou  pallicuMa 


I      I    Covar  titia  missing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


I      I   Colourad  maps/ 


Cartas  gtographiquas  wn  coulaur 

Cclourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blailia  ou  noira) 


r~~|   Colourad  platas  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planchas  at/ou  illustrations  Bn  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rail*  avac  d'autras  documants 


Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

La  re  liura  sarrie  paut  causar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marga  intAriaura 

Blank  laavas  addad  during  rastoratlon  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  possibla.  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  sa  paut  qua  certainas  pagas  blanchas  ajouttes 
lors  d'una  rastauration  apparaissant  dans  la  taxta. 
mais.  lorsqua  cala  ttait  possibla.  cas  pagas  n'ont 
pas  M  filmtes. 

Additional  commants:/ 
Commantairas  suppl^mentairas; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  la  maillaur  axemplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  At*  possibla  da  sa  procurar.  Las  details 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  sont  paut-Atra  uniquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua.  qui  pauvanf  modifier 
una  imaga  raproduita.  ou  qui  pauvant  axiger  una 
modification  dans  la  mAthoda  normale  de  f ilmage 
sont  indiqute  ci-dassous. 


I     I   Colourad  pages/ 


Pagas  da  coulaur 

Pagas  damagad/ 
Pagas  andommagAas 

Pagas  restored  and/oi 

Pagas  restaurAes  at/ou  palliculAas 

Pagas  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pagas  dAcolorAas.  t&chetdes  ou  piquAes 


I — I   Pagas  damagad/ 

[~n    Pagas  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~~L  Pagas  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 


□   Pagas  datached/ 
Pages  dAtachAes 

r~~L,  Showthrough/ 
L±d^  Transparanca 

I     I   Quality  of  print  varias/ 


QualitA  inAgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplemantary  matarial/ 
Comprend  du  matAriei  supplAmantaire 


I — I   Only  adition  availabia/ 


D 


Saula  Adition  disponibia 

Pagas  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieliement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiliet  d'errata,  une  peiure, 
etc.,  ont  AtA  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  A 
obtanir  la  mailleure  image  possible. 


TlM 

to 


Th( 
po( 
of 

fill! 


Ori 

bo( 

tlH 
SlO 
OtI 

fin 
alo 
or 


Th( 
•hi 
TW 
wh 

Ma 

dW 
•nf 

b«l 
rigl 
raq 
ma 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  rAduction  indiquA  ci-dessous 

10X                            14X                            18X                           22X 

26X 

30X 

1 
1 

y 

1 

12X                             16X                             aOX                             24X                            28X                             32X 

Tlw  eopy  fHiiMd  h«r«  hM  bMii  raproduoMl  thanks 
to  th«  gMMrothy  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  ArcMvai  of  Britith  Columbia 


L'OKomptolro  fllmA  fut  roprodult  grico  A  la 
0«n«rooltA  do: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Ardiivat  of  British  Columbii 


Tho  imofloo  oppooring  horo  aro  tho  boat  quality 
poaalblo  eonaMorlng  tho  eondltion  and  laglblllty 
of  tho  originol  copy  and  In  kaoplng  with  tho 
filming  eontraet  apacif ieatlona. 


Original  copioa  In  printad  papar  covors  ara  fllmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covor  and  anding  on 
tho  loot  paga  with  a  printad  or  llluatratad  Impraa- 
alon.  or  tho  back  eovor  whon  appropriata.  All 
othor  original  copioa  ara  fllmad  beginning  on  tho 
firat  paga  with  a  printad  or  llluatratad  impras- 
alon.  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illustrotod  improsalon. 


Tho  last  racordad  frama  on  aach  microfiche 
ahaii  contain  tha  symbol  ^-^  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tho  symbol  V  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  applias. 

IMaps.  piatas,  charts,  ate.  may  ba  fllmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thosa  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraiy  Included  in  ono  oxposuro  ara  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lea  images  suhrantaa  ont  4tA  reprodultoa  avae  la 
plua  grand  aoin.  compto  tenu  do  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattetA  da  raKomplaire  filmA,  et  on 
conformitA  avac  lee  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 

Lea  exomplalrea  originaux  dont  la  couvortura  mt 
papier  oat  ImprimAa  sont  f llmAs  en  commandant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  salt  par  la 
damiAre  paga  qui  comporte  une  empreinto 
d'improasion  ou  d'llluatration.  soit  per  la  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  les  autrea  exomplairaa 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ant  par  la 
pramlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinto 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinto. 

Un  des  symboles  suivonts  apparaltra  sur  la 
darnlAre  imege  do  cheque  microfiche,  selon  la 
cas:  la  symbole  -^^  slgnifie  "A  8UIVRE".  la 
symbole  y  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  certes.  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  pouvent  Atra 
filmAs  A  des  taux  da  rAduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  ;rand  pour  Atra 
reproduit  en  un  soul  ciichA.  ii  est  filmA  A  partir 
da  i'angle  supArieur  gauche,  do  gauche  A  droita, 
et  do  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imeges  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
iilustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

C^Uectiorv 


» {' 


.«.' 


■m- 


I 


r .  ">■ . 


NARRATIVE 


OP    A 


JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS, 


TO 


THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER, 


AND 


A   VISIT  TO  THE  SANDWICH   ISLANDS,  CHILI,  &c. 


WITH 


A  SCIENTIFIC 


APPENDIX.     A<>y^ — <4;a, 

iff    .=:.  \e^ 


V/. 


J^ 


BY    JOHN    K.  TOWNSEND, 

Memher  ol'tlie  Acndemy  of  Natural  Sciences  of  Philadelphia 


eipiiia. 

DOKJCAIB  COPY. 

SOLD. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
HKNRY  PEIIKINS,  134  CHESTNUT  STREET. 

BOSTON  I  PERKINS  k  MARVIN. 
1839. 


V*, 


■A\ 


Emtebed  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1839,  by 

JoUt?    K.   TOWNSEND, 

in  the  Office  of  the  Clerk  of  the  Disirict  Court  of  the  Eastern  District  of 
Pennsylvania, 


'{ 


|IV.:^|>l'nJ 


r    y       1' 


AlAiM 


MEBKIHEW  AND  THOMPSON,  PRINTERS, 

No.  7  Carter's  Alley. 


.!^ 


■-*«■ 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


The  Columbia  River  Fishing  and  Trading  Company  was  formed  in 
1834,  by  several  individuals  in  New  York  and  Boston.  Capt.  Wveth, 
having  an  interest  in  the  enterprise,  collected  a  party  of  men  to  cross 
the  continent  to  the  Pacific,  with  the  purpose  chiefly  of  establishing 
trading  posts  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  on  the  coast. 

The  idea  of  making  one  of  Capt.  Wyeth*s  party  was  suggested  to 
the  author  by  the  eminent  botanist,  Mr.  Nuttall,  who  had  himself 
determined  to  join  the  expedition  across  the  North  American  wilder- 
ness. Being  fond  of  Natural  History,  particularly  the  science  of 
Ornithology,  the  temptation  to  visit  a  country  hitherto  unexplored  by 
naturalists  was  inesistible ;  and  the  following  pages,  originally  penned 
for  the  family-circle,  and  without  the  slightest  thought  of  publication, 
will  furnish  some  account  of  his  travels. 


27709 


ERRATA. 

Page  9,  sixth  line  of  the  Contents,  for  "aharon,"  read  eharon. 
Page  79,  ninth  line  from  the  bottom,  for  "  for  which  we  have  exchanged," 
read  which  we  have  exchanged  for. 

Page  84,  for  "  methiglen,"  read  melheglin. 

Page  120,  third  line  of  the  chapter,  for  "  winnowing,"  read  winnytng. 
Page  248,  third  line  from  the  bottom,  for  "  hallowed,"  read  hallooed. 
Page  286,  third  line  from  the  bottom,  in  note,  for  "  dulcits,"  read  dulcis. 


\.        * 


m' 


CONTENTS. 


Cmaptir  I,  Arrival  at  St  Louis — Preparations  for  the  journey — Saque  In- 
dians— Their  appearance,  dress,  and  manners — Squaws — Commencement 
of  a  pedestrian  tour — Sandhill  cranes — Prairie  settlers — Their  hospitality — 
Wild  pigeons,  golden  plovers  and  prairie  hens — Mr.  P.  and  his  daughters — 
An  abundant  repast — Simplicity  of  the  prairie  maidens— A  deer  and  turkey 
hunt — Loutre  Lick  hotel — A  colored  charon — Comfortable  quarters — Young 
men  of  the  west — Reflections  on  leaving  home — Loquacity  of  the  inhabi- 
tants— Gray  squirrels — Boonville — Parroquets — Embarkation  in  a  steam- 
boat— Large  catfish — Accident  on  board  the  boat — Arrival  at  Independence — 
Description  of  the  town — Encampment  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  company — 
Character  of  the  men — Preparation  for  departure— Requisites  of  a  leader — 
Backwoods  familiarity — Milton  Sublette  and  his  band — Rev.  Jason  Lee,  the 
missionary — A  letter  from  home — Mormonites — Military  discipline  and  its 
consequences,        9 

CiiAFTGH.  II.  Departure  of  the  caravan — A  storm  on  the  prairie — Arrange- 
ment of  the  camp — Kanzas  Indians — Kanzas  river — Indian  lodges — Passage 
of  the  river — Buflalo  canoes — Kanzas  chief — Upper  Kaw  village — their  wig- 
wams— Catfish  and  ravens — Return  of  Mr.  Sublette — Pawnee  trace — Deser- 
tion of  three  men — Difficulties  occasioned  by  losing  the  trail — Intelligence  of 
Mr.  Sublette's  party — Escape  of  the  band  of  horses — Visit  of  three  Otto  In- 
dians— Anecdote  of  Richardson,  the  chief  hunter — his  appearance  and  cha- 
racter— White  wolves  and  antelopes — Buffalo  bones — Sublette's  deserted 
camps — Lurking  wolves, 27 

Chapter  III.  Arrival  at  the  Platte  river — Wolves  and  antelopes— Anxiety  of 
the  men  to  see  buffalo — Visit  of  two  spies  from  the  Grand  Pawnees — Forced 
march — A  herd  of  buffalo — Elk — Singular  conduct  of  the  horses — Killing  a 
buflfalo — Indian  mode  of  procuring  buffalo — Great  herd — Adventure  with  an 
Indian  in  the  tent — Indian  feat  with  bow  and  arrow — Notice  of  the  Paw- 
nee tribes — Disappearance  of  the  buffalo  from  the  plains  of  the  Platte — \ 
hunting  adventure — Killing  a  buffalo — Butchering  of  a  bull — Shamefu'  d'.;- 
struction  of  the  game — Hunters' mode  of  quenching  thirst,     .     .     .    . -'ti 

Chapter  IV.  Change  in  the  face  of  the  country — Unpleasant  visitation — N. 
fork  of  the  Platte — A  day's  journey  over  the  hills — Poor  pasture — Marmots — 
Rattlesnake  and  gopher — Naturalist's  success  and  sacrifices — A  sand  storm — 
Wild  horses— Killing  of  a  doe  antelope — Bluffs — The  Chimney — "  Zip 
Koon,"  the  young  antelope— Birds — Feelings  and  cogitations  of  a  naturalist — 
Laramie's  fork — Departure  of  two  "  free  trappers"  on  a  summer  "  hunt" — 
Black  hills — Red  butes — Sweet-water  Yiver,  and  Rock  Independence — Avo- 
cets — Wind  river  mountains — Rocky  Mountain  sheep — Adventure  with  a 

'  grizzly  bear — Rattlesnakes — Toilsome  march,  and  arrival  at  Sandy  river — 
Suffering  of  the  horses — Anticipated  delights  of  the  rendezvous,      .    .  5" 

Chapter  V.  Arrival  at  the  Colorado— The  author  in  difficulty— Loss  of  a 
journal,  and  advice  to  travelling  tyros — The  rendezvous — Motley  groups  in- 
festing it — Rum  drinking,  swearing,  and  other  accomplishments  in  vogue — 
Description  of  the  camp — Trout — Abundance  of  game— Cock  of  the  plains — 


VI 


C;ONTKNTS. 


Leave  the  rendezvoui — An  ncrcKnion  to  the  bond— A  renegwlii  HIiutkfiHil 
chief— Captain  Stewart  and  Mr.  Aihworth — Muddy  cri-ek— Mure  uarou**' 
ing — Abundance  of  trout — Bear  river — A  hard  doy'H  march — Vohmiiln  v*UU' 
try— White-clay  piti  and  "  Beer  ipring" — Rare  bird*  and  cnmniun  blrd»— 
Mr.  Thomas  McKay — Captain  Bonneville'i  party — Captain*  Mtuwitrt  iiliil 
Wyeth'8  visit  to  the  lodge  of  the  "bald  chief" — Blorkfuot  river— Advii||liirM 
with  a  grizzly  Iwar— Death  of  "Zip  Koon" — Young  grizzly  bearN  uiiil  bul- 
falo  calves — A  Blackfoot  Indian — Dangerous  experiment  of  Mi'Kity— ^(h« 
three  "  Tetons"— Large  trout— Hhoshonu  river— Site  of"  Port  H»tt"—Vtf 
|iarationi  for  a  bufliilo  hunt, ,    ,  7J 

Chapter  VL  Departure  of  the  hunting  camp — A  falvo  alarm—  llla('kft<i<t  lli> 
diani — Requisites  of  a  mountain-man — Good  fare,  and  good  appittiUw— All 
experiment — Grizzly  beors — Ncz  Perce  Indian — Adventure  with  »  gri/Kly 
Iwar — Hunters'  anecdotes — Homeward  Iwund — Arrivol  at "  Fori  H»ll"— A 
salute — Emaciation  from  lowdict — Mr.  McKay's  company —lluirulu  I«nI||«<m-  - 
EtTects  of  judicious  training — Indian  worship— A  "Camp  Meuting"— Mfi 
Jason  Lee,  a  favorite — A  fatal  accident  and  a  burial,       ,  V'i 

Chapteb  VII.  Departure  of  McKay's  party,  Captoin  Htowart,  slid  tlm  iiili»» 
sionaries — Debauch  at  the  fort — Departure  of  the  company — I'uor  provUioii'-' 
Blackfret  hunting  ground — Sufferings  from  thirst — (loddin's  i'rt<tik^Ali* 
toine  Goddin,  the  trapper — Scarcity  of  game — A  butfaln — Hugged  itioMll* 
tains — More  game — Unusual  economy —Habits  of  the  white  wulf<>"  'I'liurn* 
burg's  pass" — Difiicult  travelling — 'fhe  captain  in  jeopardy  umQIlg  lllti 
enow — A  countermarch — Deserted  Banncck  camp — Toilsome  and  dungiirtlllH 
passage  of  the  mountain — Mullado  river — Beaver  dams,  and  U)avt<r»A 
party  of  Snake  Indians — Another  Banneck  camp — "Kamas  prairie"^liitllHti 
mode  of  preparing  the  kamas — Racine  blanc,  or  biscuit  root— Loss  uf  liurN«*N 
by  fatigue — Boisec  or  Big-wood  river — Salmon — Chokejcherrius,  itv,     ill) 

Chapter  VIIL  A  substitute  for  game,  and  a  luxurious  breakfast'^-Kup^iittt' 
tions  of  a  repast,  and  a  disap{>ointment— Visit  of  a  Snake  chiuf—  liis  Rbhtir* 
fence  of  horse  meat— A  band  of  Snake  Indians— their  chief—TradK  with 
Indians  fur  salmon— Mr.  Ashworth's  adventure — An  Indian  liorW'(hliif<^ 
Visit  to  the  Snake  camp — A  Banneck  camp— Supercilious  conduL't  uf  lli«< 
Indians — Snake  river— Equipment  of  a  trapping  party— Indian  modi*  id' 
catching  salmon — Loss  of  a  favorite  horse— Powder  river — Cut  ropkd— » 
Grand  Ronde — Captain  Bonneville — Kayouse  and  Nez  Perci'i  Indiaim-TAlt 
Indian  beauty— Blue  mountains— A  feline  visit, .     \'i9 

Chapter  IX.  Passage  of  the  Blue  mountains — SufTerings  fVom  thirst'^ 
Utalla  river — A  transformation — A  novel  meal — Columbia  river  and  Fort 
Walla-walla — A  dinner  with  the  missionaries — Anecdote  of  Mr,  Le«<i— 
Brief  notice  of  the  Fort — Departure  of  the  missionaries— Notice  of  thii  WsJ' 
la-walla  Indians — Departure  for  Fort  Vancouver — Wild  ducks— lliditin 
graves — Visits  from  Indians — Oph\haIraia,  a  prevalent  disease— A  eoiiipuny 
of  Chinook  Indians— The  Dalles — The  party  joined  by  Captoin  Wyi<lh<" 
Embarkation  in  canoes — A  heavy  gale— Dangerous  navigation'»rusillBtiJ< 
mous  conduct  of  an  Indian  helmsman — A  zealous  botanist— Peparlur^  of 
Captain  Wyeth  with  five  men — Cascades — A  portage — Meeting  with  tiw 
missionaries — Loss  of  a  canoe— A  toilsome  duty — Arrival  at  Fort  Viinpou' 
ver — Dr.  John  McLoughlin,  the  chief  factor — Domiciliation  of  the  tiDvel-- 
lers  at  Fort  Vancouver \MI 

Chaptkk  X.     Fort 


couver  "camp 


rt  Vancouver — Agricultural  and  other  improvements''^ Vmi' 
— Expedition  to  the  Wallammct — The  tails— -A  vilUge  of 


CDNTKNTH. 


VII 


KlikaUt  IndianH — Munner  ot*  flattening  the  head— A  Flathead  infant — 
Brig  "  May  Dacre" — Freparationa  fur  a  aettlement — Succeia  of  the  natural- 
iita — Chinook  Indiunii  — their  appearance  and  costume— Ague  and  fever — 
Doiertion  of  the  Mundwich  Ittlandern  -  Embarkation  for  a  trip  to  the  Iilandi — 
Oeorge.the  Indian  pilot— Mount  ColTin — Aviiittothetnmha— Superitition — 
Visit  to  an  Indian  house— Fort  George— Site  of  Astoria— A  blind  Indian 
boy — Cruel  and  unfeeling  conduct  of  the  savages — their  moral  character- 
Baker's  Bay —Cape  Disappointment- Dangerous  bar  at  the  entrance  of  the 
river— The  sea  beach — Visit  of  Mr.  Ogden— Passage  across  the  bar— Sea 
birds — Landsmen  atscu — Asperm.  whule — Albatrosses,  &c.— Tropic  birds— 
A  "school"  of  whales — Dolphins— Make  the  Sandwicli  Islands— Oahu —A 
rhi-.psody 170 

CiurTER  XI.  Honoruru — Canoes — Amphibioushubits  —Cupt. Charlton, H.  B. 
M.  consul — Mr.  Jones,  the  American  consul — reception  liy  him — Description 
of  the  town,  and  of  the  natives — Purty-colored  hair  of  the  women— The  pa- 
goda— A  visit  from  Uev.  Hiram  Bingham,  the  misHionary- Opinions  regard- 
ing the  missionary  fraternity— First  view  of  the  king,  Kauikeaouli — his 
train— Sciimnn's  chupel — A  visit  to  the  native  church — Kinau  and  Keku- 
anoa — Orderly  conduct  of  the  natives  during  worship — Introduction  to  the 
king — His  fondness  for  the  chai>c,  and  athletic  exercises — Native  food — Man- 
ner of  eating — The  rumi-rumi — its  efficacy — A  Lu-au  party —The  valley  of 
Nuano — A  visit  to  the  Pari — Tho  last  batllo  of  Tamchameha — A  feast — 
Manner  of  cooking — A  party  of  native  ladies — An  adventure,       .     .    191 

CiUPTKH  XII.  Visit  to  the  island  of  Kauai — A  royat  call — Rev,  P.  J. 
Gulick, — Description  of  the  island — A  present  from  Kauikeaouli— Royal 
mode  of  obtaining  supplies — Birds — Native  method  of  catching  them— The 
travellers  wind-bound — Shell  hunting — Habits  of  the  natives— Beach  food, 
and  mode  of  eating  it — Visit  of  the  king,  and  governor  Kekeoeva — Charac- 
teristics of  the  latter — Anxiety  of  tho  Ung  to  return  home— Arrival  of  hia 
followers — A  metamorphosis — A  royal  supper — Evening  service- Royal 
guard — A  sail  in  sight — Joy  of  the  king— His  letter — Return  of  the  Avon — 
Departure  from  Kauai,  and  arrival  at  Oahu — A  pic-nic  party  at  Pearl  river — 
Calabash  dance  by  the  natives — Departure  for  Columbia  river — A  primitive 
passage  to  the  shore — A  storm  at  sea— A  flight  of  shore  birds — Land  ahead — 
Arrival  at  the  Columbia, 205 

Chapter  XIII.     PassageuptheColumbia— Birds— A  trip  to  the  Wallammet — 

Methodist  missionaries — their  prospects — Fort  William—  Band-tail  pigeons 

Wretched  condition  of  the  Indians  at  the  falls — A  Kallapooyah  village In- 
dian cemetery — Superstitions — Treatment  of  diseases — Method  of  steaming — 

"  Making  medicine" — Indian  sorcerers — Death  of  Thornburg — An  inquest 

Verdict  of  the  jury — Inordinate  appetite  for  ardent  spirits — Eight  men 
drowned— Murder  of  two  trappers  by  the  Banneck  Indians— Arrival  of  Cap- 
tain Thing — His  meeting  and  skirmish,  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians — Mas- 
sacre— A  narrow  escape, 218 

Chapter  XIV.  Indians  of  the  ColumbiaT— Departure  of  Mr.  Nuttall  and  Dr. 
Gairdner — Arrival  of  the  Rev.  Samuel  Parker — his  object — Departure  of  the 
American  brig— Swans — Indian  mode  of  taking  them — A  large  wolf — A 
night  adventure — A  discovery,  and  restoration  of  stolen  property — Fraternal 
tenderness  of  an  Indian — Indian  vengeance — Death  of  Waskema,  the  Indian 
giri— "Busy-body,"  the  little  chief— A  village  of  Kowalitsk  Indians— Cere- 
mony of"  making  medicine" — Exposure  of  an  impostor — Success  of  legiti- 
mate medicines — Departure  from  Fort  Vancouver  for  a  visit  to  the  interior 

Arrival  of  a  stranger— "Cape  Horn" — Tilki,  the  Indian  chief—Indian  vil- 


tiii 


CONTKNTa. 


lawei — Arrival  nt  Fort  Wulln-wallu — Hhur|>-taile(l  groune — (>ommcncernent 
of  a  journey  to  tho  Ulue  muuntuiii*, 331 

CiiAPTKR  XV.  A  village  of  Kayuuiu  Iiuliuna — Appearance  and  dreswi  of  the 
woiniM — family  worship — Vi»itto  the  Ulue  mountuiiii — l)u«lcy  groufc — Re- 
turn to  Walla-walla — Arrival  of  Mr.  .McLeod,  and  tho  miHsionaricii — Letters 
fr.m  homo — Death  of  .\ntoino  Ooildin — A  renrgudo  white  man — Aiwoultby 
•he  Walln-wullu  Indiunit — PadHugu  down  the  Culunibia — Rupidii — A  dog  for 
■up|icr — Prairieii  on  lire — F'iHhing  Indianx — Their  romantic  appearance — 
Hahnon  hutH — ThcBhoot* — Dangerous  navigation — Death  ofTilki — Heali — 
Indian  Htoicism  and  contempt  of  pain — Hkookoom,  tho  strong  chief — his 
death — Maiming,  an  evidence  of  grief — Arrival  at  Fort  Vancouver — A  visit 
to  Fort  (Seorgo — Indian  cemeteries — Lewis  and  Clarke's  house — A  medal-- 
Visit  to  Chinook — Hospitality  of  the  Indians — Chinamus'  home — The  idol — 
Canine  inmates, ■ 245 

CiupTEH  XVI.  Northern  excursion — Salmon — Indian  mode  of  catching 
them — Flathead  children — A  storm  on  the  bay — Pintail  ducks — Simple 
mode  of  killing  salmon — Return  to  Chinook — Indian  garrulity — Return  to 
Fort  George — Preparations  for  a  second  trip  to  the  Sandwich  Islands — De- 
tention within  the  cape — The  tropics,  and  tropic  birds — Make  the  island  of 
Maui — Arrival  at  Oanu — Accession  to  the  society — A  visit  to  the  king — 
Illness  of  the  princess,  Harieta  Nahicnaena — Abrupt  exit  of  the  king — A  tide 
to  Waititi — Cocoanut  grove — Native  mode  of  climbing — Death  of  the 
princess — grief  of  her  people — barbarous  ceremonies — Residence  in  the  valley 
of  Nuano — A  visit  to  the  palace —  Kahiles — Coffin  of  the  princess,  and  inscrip- 
tion—Appurtenances—Ceremony of  carrying  the  body  to  the  church — Des- 
cription of  the  pageant — Dress'of  the  king — Conclusion  of  tho  ceremony,  259 

Chapter  X  VII.  Embarkation  for  a  tour  of  tho  islands — Lahaina — Forts — La- 
hainaluna — Missionaries  of  Maui — High  school — Karakakua  bay — Kairua — 
Cook's  rock — Reverence  of  the  natives  for  his  memory — Cook's  monument — 
Kawaihae — Colossal  mountains — Mrs.  Young — Heiau,  or  native  temple — 
Human  sacrifices— Moral — Heathenish  rites — A  cargo  of  cattle — Unsavory 
practice  of  the  native  women — Departure  from  Ouhu — A  sail  by  moonlight — 
Dean's  island — A  "  complaisant" — Arrival  at  Tahiti— Native  pilot— Papeete 
bay — Appearance  of  the  shore — Orange  groves,  &c. — A  young  native  song- 
ster— Visit  to  the  queen — Native  service — The  chapel — A  bedridden  Tahai- 
tian — Jungle  fowls— Leave  the  harbor — Dangerous  navigation-^A  narrow 
escape — A  shipwreck 275 

CuAPTGR  XVIIL  Island  of  Eimeo — Juan  Fernandez— Make  the  coast  of 
Chili — Town  of  Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition — Kindness  of  the  fo- 
reign residents,  &c.— Preparation  by  the  government  for  an  expedition 
against  Peru — Foreign  adventurers— Disaflection  of  Vidaurro  and  other 
officers  in  the  Chilian  army — Murder  of  Signor  Portules  by  tho  rebels — Pre- 
paration for  invading  the  town  of  Valparaiso — A  battle — defeat  of  the  insur- 
gents— Capture  and  imprisonment  of  Vidaurre  and  seven  officers — Florine, 
the  murderer— Sentence  of  the  court  martial — A  military  execution— Ap- 
pearance of  the  bodies  afler  death — Sail  for  the  United  States — Cape  Horn — 
Pemambuco— Cape  Henlopen— A  gale — Anival  at  Philadelphia,     .     295 

Appimdix,    • oil 


i 


.# 


■  'S^.^^'^y 


NARRATIVE 


OF    A 


JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  &c. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Arrival  at  St.  Louis —Prtparatlons  for  the  journey— SAque  Indians— Their 
appearance,  drew,  and  mannert—Squawi— Commencement  of  a  pedestrian 
tour— Sandhill  cranes— Prairie  settlers— Their  hospitality— tVild  pigeons, 
golden  plovers  and  prairie  hens — Mr.  P.  and  his  daughters— ^n  abundant 

repast— Simplicity  of  the  prairie  maidens — .i  deer  atid  turkey  hunt Loutre 

lAck  hotel^Unieelcome  bed-fellows — Jl  colored  sharon — Comfortable  quar- 
ters— Young  men  cf  the  west — Reflections  on  leaving  home— Loquacity  ^f 
the  inhabitants— Orat/  squirrels— Soonville—Parroquets — Embarkation  in 
a  iteavAoat — Large  catfish — Occident  on  board  the  boat — Arrival  at  Indepen- 
dence— Description  qf  the  town — Procure  a  supply  of  horses — Encampment 
<lf  the  Rocky  Mountain  company — Character  qf  the  men — Preparation  for 
departure — Requisites  of  a  leader — Backwoods  familiarity — Milton  Sublette 
and  his  band— Rev.  Jason  Lee,  the  missionary—^  letter  from  home— Mormon- 
ites— Military  discipline  and  its  consequences. 

On  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  March,  1834,  Mr.  NuTTAtiand 
myself  arrived  at  St.  Louis,  in  the  steamboat  Boston,  from  Pitts- 
burg. 

On  landing,  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  learn  that  Captain 
Wykth  was  already  there,  and  on  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day 
we  called  upon  him,  and  consulted  him  in  reference  to  the  outfit 
which  it  would  be  necessary  to  purchase  for  the  journey.  He 
accompanied  us  to  a  store  in  the  town,  and  selected  a  number 
of  articles  for  us,  among  which  were  several  pairs  of  leathern 


to 


narrative:  />r  a  journey 


pantaloons,  enormous  overcoats,  made  of  green  blankets,  and 
white  wool  hats,  with  round  crowns,  fitting  tightly  to  tho  head, 
brims  five  inches  wide,  and  almost  hard  enough  to  resist  a  rifle 
ball. 

The  day  following  we  saw  about  one  hundred  Indians  of  the 
SAqiie  tribe,  who  had  Icfl  their  native  forests  for  the  purpose  of 
treating  for  the  sale  of  some  land  at  the  Jefferson  barrackH> 
They  were  dressed  and  decorated  in  the  true  primitive  style  | 
their  heads  shaved  closely,  and  painted  with  alternate  stripes  of 
fiery  red  and  deep  black,  leaving  only  the  long  scalping  tuft, 
in  which  was  interwoven  a  quantity  of  elk  hair  and  eagle's  fea- 
thers. Each  man  was  furnished  with  a  good  blanket,  and  some 
had  an  under  dress  of  calico,  but  the  greater  number  were  en» 
tirely  naked  to  the  waist.  The  faces  and  bodies  of  the  men 
were,  almost  without  an  exception,  fantastically  painted,  the  pre> 
dominant  color  being  deep  red,  with  occasionally  a  few  stripes 
of  dull  clay  white  oround  the  eyes  and  mouth.  I  observed  one 
whose  body  was  smeared  with  light  colored  clay,  interspersed 
with  black  streaks.  They  were  unarmed,  with  the  exception  of 
tomahawks  and  knives.  The  chief  of  the  band,  (who  is  said 
to  be  Black  Hawk's  father-in-law,)  was  a  large  dignified  looking 
man,  of  perhaps  fifty-five  years  of  age,  distinguished  fVom  the 
rest,  by  his  richer  habiliments,  a  more  profuse  display  of  trinkets 
in  his  ears,  (which  were  cut  and  gashed  in  a  frightful  manner 
to  receive  them,)  and  above  all,  by  a  huge  necklace  made  of  tho 
claws  of  the  grizzly  bear.  The  squaws,  of  whom  there  were 
about  twenty,  were  dressed  very  much  like  the  men,  and  at  a  little 
distance  could  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  them.  Among  them 
was  an  old,  superannuated  crone,  who,  soon  after  her  arrival, 
had  been  presented  with  a  broken  umbrella.  The  only  use  thot 
she  made  of  it  was  to  wrench  the  plated  ends  from  the  whale* 
bones,  string  them  on  a  piece  of  wire,  take  her  knife  from  her 
belt,  with  which  she  deliberately  cut  a  slit  of  an  inch  in  length 


ACROSS  THE  nOCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


11 


along  the  upper  rim  of  her  ear,  and  insert  them  in  it.  I  saw  her 
soon  after  this  operation  had  been  performed ;  her  cheeks  were 
covered  with  blood,  and  she  was  standing  with  a  vast  deal  of 
assumed  dignity  among  her  tawny  sisters,  who  evidently  envied 
her  the  possession  of  the  worthless  baubles. 

28th. — Mr.  N.  and  myself  propose  starting  to-morrow  on  foot 
towards  the  upper  settlements,  a  distance  of  about  three  hundred 
miles.  We  intend  to  pursue  our  journey  leisurely,  as  we  have 
plenty  of  time  before  us,  and  if  we  become  tired,  we  can  enter 
the  stage  which  will  probably  overtake  us. 

29th. — This  morning  our  Indians  returned  trom  the  barracks, 
where  I  understand  they  transacted  their  business  satisfactorily. 
I  went  on  board  the  boat  again  to  see  them.  I  feel  very  much 
interested  in  them,  as  they  are  the  first  Indians  I  have  ever  seen 
who  appear  to  be  in  a  state  of  uncultivated  nature,  and  who  retain 
the  savage  garb  and  manners  of  their  people.  They  had  en- 
gaged the  entire  covered  deck  for  their  especial  use,  and  were 
lolling  about  in  groups,  wrapped  in  their  blankets.  Some  were 
occupied  in  conversation,  others  seemed  more  contemplative,  and 
appeared  to  be  thinking  deeply,  probably  of  the  business  which 
brought  them  amongst  us.  Here  and  there  two  might  be  seen 
playing  a  Spanish  game  with  cards,  and  some  were  busily  em- 
ployed in  rendering  themselves  more  hideous  with  paint.  To 
perform  this  operation,  the  dry  paint  is  folded  in  a  thin  muslin 
or  gauze  cloth,  tied  tightly  and  beaten  against  the  face,  and  a 
small  looking-glass  is  held  in  the  other  hand  to  direct  them  where 
to  apply  it.  Two  middle-aged  squaws  were  frying  beef,  which 
they  distributed  around  to  the  company  in  wooden  bowls,  and 
several  half  loaves  of  bread  were  circulating  rapidly  amongst 
them,  by  being  tossed  from  one  to  another,  each  taking  a  huge 
bite  of  it.  There  were  among  the  company,  several  younger  fe- 
males, but  they  were  all  so  hard  favored  that  I  could  not  feel 
much  sympathy  with  them,  and  was  thcrofore  not  anxious  to  cul- 


It 


NAHUATIVE   OF   A   JOCRNET 


tivate  their  acquaintance.  There  was  another  circumstance,  too, 
^  that  was  not  a  very  attractive  one ;  I  allude  to  the  custom  so 
universal  amongst  Indians,  of  seeking  for  vermin  in  each  others' 
heads,  and  then  eating  them.  The  fair  damsels  were  engaged 
in  this  way  during  most  of  the  time  that  I  remained  on  board, 
only  suspending  their  delectable  occupation  to  take  their  bites  of 
bread  as  it  passed  them  in  rotation.  The  effect  upon  my  person 
was  what  an  Irishman  would  call  the  attraction  of  repulsion,  as 
I  found  myself  almost  unconsciously  edging  away  until  I  halted 
at  a  most  respectable  distance  from  the  scene  of  slaughter. 

At  noon,  Mr.  N.  and  myself  started  on  our  pedestrian  tour, 
Captain  Wyeth  offering  to  accompany  us  a  few  miles  on  the  way. 
I  was  glad  to  get  clear  of  St.  Louis,  as  I  felt  uncomfortable  in 
many  resi)ects  while  there,  and  the  bustle  and  restraint  of  a  town 
was  any  thing  but  agreeable  to  me.  We  proceeded  over  a  road 
generally  good,  a  low  dry  prairie,  mostly  heavily  timbered,  the 
soil  underlaid  with  horizontal  strata  of  limestone,  abounding  in 
organic  remains,  shells,  coralines,  &c.,  and  arrived  in  the  evening 
at  Florisant,  where  we  spent  the  night.  The  next  day  Captain 
Wyeth  left  us  for  St.  Louis,  and  my  companion  and  myself  pro- 
ceeded on  our  route.  We  observed  great  numbers  of  the  brown, 
or  sandhill  crane,  {Grus  canadensis,)  flying  over  us ;  some  flocks 
were  so  high  as  to  be  entirely  beyond  the  reach  of  vision,  while 
their  harsh,  grating  voices  were  very  distinctly  heard.  We  saw 
several  flocks  of  the  same  cranes  while  ascending  the  Mississippi, 
several  days  since.  At  about  noon,  we  crossed  the  river  on  a 
boat  worked  by  horses,  and  stopped  at  a  little  town  called  St. 
Charles. 

We  find  it  necessary,  both  for  our  comfort  and  convenience, 
to  travel  very  slowly,  as  our  feet  are  already  becoming  tender, 
and  that  we  may  have  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  country, 
and  collecting  interesting  specimens.  Unfortunately  for  the 
pursuits  of  my  companion,  the  plants  (of   which  he  finds  a 


I 


ACROSS    THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


18 


number  tliat  are  rare  and  curious)  are  not  yet  in  flower,  and 
therefore  of  little  use  to  him.  The  birds  are  in  considerable 
numbers,  among  the  principal  of  which  is  the  large  pileated 
woodpecker,  (Picua  pileatus.) 

Mr.  N.  and  myself  are  both  in  high  spirits.  We  travel  slowly, 
and  without  much  fatigue,  and  when  we  arrive  at  a  house,  stop 
and  rest,  take  a  drink  of  milk,  and  chat  with  those  we  see.  We 
have  been  uniformly  well  treated ;  the  living  is  good,  and  very 
cheap,  and  at  any  house  at  which  we  stop  the  inhabitants  are 
sure  to  welcome  us  to  their  hospitality  and  good  cheer.  They 
live  comfortably,  and  without  much  labor ;  possess  a  fruitful  and 
easily  tilled  soil,  for  which  they  pay  the  trifling  sum  of  one  dollar 
and  a  quarter  per  acre ;  they  raise  an  abundance  of  good  In- 
dian  corn,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables;  have  excellent  beef 
and  pork,  and,  in  short,  every  thing  necessary  for  good,  whole- 
some living. 

3l8t. — The  road  to-day  was  muddy  and  slippery,  rendered  so  by 
a  heavy  rain  which  fell  last  night.  This  morning,  we  observed 
large  flocks  of  wild  pigeons  passing  over,  and  on  the  bare  prairies 
were  thousands  of  golden  plovers ;  the  ground  was  often  literally 
covered  with  them  for  acres.  I  killed  a  considerable  number. 
They  were  very  fat,  and  we  made  an  excellent  meal  of  them  in 
the  evening.  The  prairie  hen,  or  pinnated  grouse,  is  also 
very  numerous,  but  in  these  situations  is  shy,  and  diflicult  to  be 
procured. 

Towards  evening  we  were  overtaken  by  a  blufl^,  jolly  looking 
man,  on  horseback,  who,  as  is  usual,  stopped,  and  entered  into 
conversation  with  us.  I  saw  immediately  that  he  was  superior 
to  those  we  had  been  accustomed  to  meet.  He  did  not  ply  us 
with  questions  so  eagerly  as  most,  and  when  he  heard  that  we 
were  naturalists,  and  were  travelling  in  that  capacity,  he  seemed 
to  take  considerable  interest  in  us.  He  invited  us  to  stop  at  his 
house,  which  was  only  a  mile  beyond,  and  as  night  was  almost 


14 


NAHHATIVE    OP   A   JOVRNRT 


upon  us,  we  accepted  the  invitation  with  cheerfulness.  Upon 
arriving  at  his  mansion,  our  good  host  threw  wide  his  hospitable 
doors,  and  then  with  a  formal,  and  rather  ultra-dignified  polite- 
ness, making  us  a  low  bow,  said,  "  Gentlemen,  my  name  is  P., 
and  I  am  very  happy  of  your  company."  We  seated  ourselves 
in  a  large,  and  well-furnished,  parlor.  Mr.  P.  excused  himself 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  soon  returned,  bringing  in  three  fine 
looking  girls,  whom  he  introduced  as  his  daughters.  I  took  a 
particular  fancy  to  one  of  them,  from  a  strong  resemblance 
which  she  bore  to  one  of  my  female  friends  at  home.  These 
girls  were  certainly  very  superior  to  most  that  I  had  seen  in 
Missouri,  although  somewhat  touched  with  the  awkward  bash- 
fulness  and  prudery  which  generally  characterizes  the  prairie 
maidens.  They  had  lost  their  mother  when  young,  and  having 
no  companions  out  of  the  domestic  circle,  and  consequently  no 
opportunity  of  aping  the  manners  of  the  world,  were  perfect  chil- 
dren of  nature.  Their  father,  however,  had  given  them  a  good, 
plain  education,  and  they  had  made  some  proficiency  in  needle 
work,  as  was  evinced  by  numerous  neatly  worked  samplers 
hanging  in  wooden  frames  around  the  room.  Anon,  supper  was 
brought  in.  It  consisted  of  pork  chops,  ham,  eggs,  Indian  bread 
and  butter,  tea,  coffee,  milk,  potatoes,  preserved  ginger,  and 
though  last,  certainly  not  least  in  value,  an  enormous  tin  dish 
of  plovers,  (the  contents  of  my  game-bag,)  fricaseed.  Here 
was  certainly  a  most  abundant  repast,  and  we  did  ample  justice 
to  it. 

I  endeavored  to  do  the  agreeable  to  the  fair  ones  in  the  eve- 
ning,  and  Mr.  N.  was  monopolized  by  the  father,  who  took  a 
great  interest  in  plants,  and  was  evidently  much  gratified  by  the 
information  my  companion  gave  him  on  the  subject. 

The  next  morning  when  we  rose,  it  was  raining,  and  much 
had  evidently  fallen  during  the  night,  making  the  reads  wet 
and  muddy,  and  therefore  unpleasant  for  pedestrians.     I  confess 


ACKOMM   TUB   noOKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


15 


I  was  not  Borry  for  this,  for  I  felt  myself  very  comfortably 
situated,  itiid  hnd  no  wish  to  take  to  the  road.  Mr.  P.  urged  the 
propriety  of  our  stopping  at  least  another  day,  and  the  motion 
being  seconded  by  his  fair  daughter,  (my  favorite,)  it  was 
irresistible. 

On  the  following  morning  the  sun  was  shining  brightly,  the 
air  wus  fresh  nnd  clastic,  and  the  roads  tolerably  dry,  so  that 
there  was  no  longer  any  excuse  for  tarrying,  and  we  prepared 
for  our  departure.  Our  good  host,  grasping  our  hands,  said 
thot  ho  had  Ijcen  much  pleased  with  our  visit,  and  hoped  to  see 
us  again,  and  when  1  bid  good  bye  to  the  pretty  Miss  P.,  I  told 
her  thnt  if  I  ever  visited  Missouri  again,  I  would  go  many 
miles  out  of  my  way  to  sec  her  and  her  sisters.  Her  reply  was 
unsophisticuted  enough.  "  Do  come  again,  and  come  in  May 
or  June,  (or  then  there  arc  plenty  of  prairie  hens,  and  you  can 
shoot  as  many  as  you  want,  and  you  must  stay  a  long  while 
with  us,  and  we'll  have  nice  times ;  good  bye ;  I'm  so  sorry 
you're  going." 

April  ith.^  rose  this  morning  at  daybreak,  and  left  Mr.  N. 
dreaming  of  woods,  in  a  little  house  at  which  we  stopped  last 
night,  and  in  company  with  a  long,  lanky  boy,  (a  son  of  the  poor 
widow,  our  hostess,)  set  to  moulding  bullets  in  an  old  iron 
spoon,  and  preparing  for  deer  hunting.  The  boy  shouldered  a 
rusty  rifle,  that  looked  almost  antediluvian,  and  off  we  plodded 
to  a  thicket,  two  miles  from  the  house.  We  soon  saw  about  a 
dozen  fine  deer,  and  the  boy,  clapping  his  old  fire-lock  to  his 
shoulder,  brought  down  a  beautiful  doe  at  the  distance  of  a  full 
hundred  yards.  Away  sprang  the  rest  of  the  herd,  and  I  crept 
round  the  thicket  to  meet  them.  They  soon  came  up,  and  I 
fired  my  piece  nt  n  large  buck,  and  wounded  the  poor  creature 
in  the  leg ;  ho  wont  limping  away,  unable  to  overtake  his  com- 
panions; I  felt  very  sorry,  but  consoled  myself  with  the  reflection 
that  ho  would  soon  get  well  again. 


16 


NAnnATivE  or  a  jovrnet 


It. 


We  then  gave  up  the  pursuit,  and  turned  our  attention  to  the 
turkies,  which  were  rather  numerous  in  the  thicket.  They  were 
shy,  as  usual,  and,  when  started  from  their  lurking  places, 
ran  away  like  deer,  and  hid  themselves  in  the  underwood. 
Occasionally,  however,  they  would  perch  on  the  high  limbs  of 
the  trees,  and  then  we  had  some  shots  at  them.  In  the  course 
of  an  hour  we  killed  four,  and  returned  to  the  house,  where, 
as  I  expected,  Mr.  N.  was  in  a  fever  at  my  absence,  and  after 
a  late,  and  very  good  breakfast,  proceeded  on  our  journey. 

We  find  in  this  part  of  the  country  less  timber  in  the  same 
space  than  we  have  yet  seen,  and  when  a  small  belt  appears, 
it  is  a  great  relief,  as  the  monotony  of  a  bare  prairie  becomes 
tiresome. 

Towards  evening  we  arrived  at  Loutre  Lick.  Here  there  is 
a  place  called  a  Hotel.  A  Hotel,  forsooth !  a  pig-stye  would 
be  a  more  appropriate  name.  Every  thing  about  it  was  most 
exceedingly  filthy  and  disagreeable,  but  no  better  lodging  was  to 
be  had,  for  it  might  not  be  proper  to  apply  for  accommodation  at 
a  private  house  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  a  public  one.  They 
gave  us  a  wretched  supper,  not  half  so  good  as  we  had  been 
accustomed  to,  and  we  were  fain  to  spend  the  evening  in  a 
comfortless,  unfurnished,  nasty  bar-room,  that  smelt  intolerably 
of  rum  and  whiskey,  to  listen  to  the  profane  conversation  of 
three  or  four  uncouth  individuals,  (among  whom  were  the  host 
and  his  brother,)  and  to  hear  long  and  disagreeably  minute 
discussions  upon  horse-racing,  gambling,  and  other  vices  equally 
unpleasant  to  us. 

The  host's  brother  had  been  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  soon 
learning  our  destination,  gave  us  much  unsought  for  advice  re- 
garding our  method  of  journeying ;  painted  in  strong  colors  the 
many  dangers  and  difficulties  which  we  must  encounter,  and 
concluded  by  advising  us  to  give  up  the  expedition.  My  fast 
ebbing   patience  was  completely  exhausted.     I  told  him  that 


ACKOS8   THE    ROCKV   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


17 


nothing  that  he  could  say  would  discourage  us, — that  we  went  to 
that  house  in  order  to  sock  repose,  and  it  was  unfair  to  intrude 
conversation  upon  us  unasked.  The  ruffian  made  some  grum- 
bling reply,  and  left  us  in  quiet  and  undisturbed  possession  of  our 
bench.  .  We  had  a  miserable  time  that  night.  The  only  spare 
bed  in  the  house  was  so  intolerably .  filthy  that  wc  dared  not 
undress,  and  we  had  hardly  closed  our  eyes  before  we  were 
assailed  by  swarms  of  a  vile  insect,  (the  very  name  of  which  is 
offensive,)  whose  effluvia  we  had  plainly  perceived  immediately 
as  we  entered  the  room.  It  is  almost  needless  to  say,  that  very 
early  on  the  following  morning,  after  paying  our  reckoning,  and 
refusing  the  landlord's  polite  invitation  to  "liquorize"  we 
marched  from  the  house,  shook  the  dust  from  our  feet,  and  went 
elsewhere  to  seek  a  breakfast. 

Soon  after  leaving,  we  came  to  a  deep  and  wide  creek,  and 
strained  our  lungs  for  half  an  hour  in  vain  endeavors  to  waken 
a  negro  boy  who  lived  in  a  hut  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  who, 
we  were  told,  would  ferry  us  over.  He  came  out  of  his  den  at 
last,  half  naked  and  rubbing  his  eyes  to  see  who  had  disturbed 
his  slumbers  so  early  in  the  marning.  We  told  him  to  hurry 
over,  or  we'd  endeavor  to  assist  him,  and  he  came  at  last,  with 
a  miserable  leaky  little  skifT  that  wet  our  feet  completely.  We 
gave  him  a  pickayune  for  his  trouble,  and  went  on.  We 
soon  came  to  a  neat  little  secluded  cottage  in  the  very  heart 
of  a  thick  forest,  where  we  found  a  fine  looking  young  man, 
with  an  interesting  wife,  and  a  very  pretty  child  about  six 
months  old.  Upon  being  told  that  we  wanted  some  breakfast, 
the  woman  tucked  up  her  sleeve;^  gave  the  child  to  her  hus- 
band, and  went  to  work  in  good  earnest.  In  a  very  short  time 
a  capital  meal  was  smoking  on  the  board,  and  while  we  were 
partaking  of  the  good  cheer,  we  found  our  vexation  rapidly 
evaporating.    We  complimented  the  handsome  young  hostess. 


8 


18 


NABKATIVB   OF    A   JOUKNEY 


I   ' 


patted  the  chubby  checks  of  the  child,  and  were  in  a  good  humor 
with  every  body. 

Gth, — Soon  after  we  started  this  morning,  wo  were  overtaken 
by  a  stage  wliich  was  going  to  Fulton,  seven  miles  distant, 
and  as  the  roads  were  somewhat  heavy,  we  concluded  to  mako 
U80  of  this  convenience.  The  only  passengers  were  three 
young  men  from  the  far  west,  who  had  been  to  the  eastward 
purchasing  goods,  and  were  then  travelling  homeward.  Two 
of  them  evidently  possessed  a  large  share  of  what  is  called 
mother  wit,  and  so  we  had  jokes  without  number.  Some  of 
them  were  not  very  refined,  and  perhaps  did  not  suit  the  day 
very  well,  (it  being  the  Sabbath,)  yet  none  of  them  were  really 
offensive,  but  seemed  to  proceed  entirely  from  an  exuberance  of 
animal  spirits.  ^ 

In  about  an  hour  and  a  half  we  arrived  at  Fulton,  a  pretty 
little  town,  and  saw  tho  villagers  in  their  holiday  clothes 
parading  along  to  church.  The  bell  at  that  moment  sounded, 
and  the  peal  gave  rise  to  many  reflections.  It  might  be 
long  ere  I  should  hear  the  sound  of  the  "  church-going  bell" 
again.  I  was  on  my  way  to  a  far,  far  country,  and  I  did 
not  know  that  I  should  ever  be  permitted  to  re-visit  my  own. 
I  felt  that  I  was  leaving  the  scenes  of  my  childhood ;  the  spot 
which  had  witnessed  all  the  happiness  I  ever  knew,  the  home 
where  all  my  affections  were  centered.  I  was  entering  a  land 
of  strangers,  and  would  bo  compelled  hereafter  to  mingle  with 
those  who  might  look  upon  me  with  indifference,  or  treat  me 
with  neglect. 

These  reflections  were  soon  checked,  however.  We  took  a 
light  lunch  at  the  tavern  where  we  stopped.  I  shouldered  my 
gun,  Mr.  N.  his  stick  and  bundle,  and  off  we  trudged  again, 
westward,  ho  !  We  soon  lost  sight  of  the  prairie  entirely,  and  our 
way  lay  through  a  country  thickly  covered  with  heavy  timber, 
tho  roads  very  rough  and  stony,  and  we  had  frequently  to  ford 


I 


ACROSS  TIIR   HOCKV   M0UNTAIN8,  ETC 


10 


the  creeks  on  our  route,  the  late  frcsliets  having  carried  nway  the 
bridges. 

Our  accommodation  at  the  farm  houses  has  generally  been 
good  and  comfortable,  and  the  inhabitants  obliging,  and  anxious 
to  please.  They  are,  however,  exceedingly  in|uisitivc,  pro- 
pounding question  ailer  question,  in  such  quick  succession  as 
scarcely  to  allow  you  breathing  time  between  them.  This  kind 
of  catechising  was  at  first  very  annoying  to  us,  but  we  have 
now  become  accustomed  to  it,  and  have  hit  upon  an  expedient  to 
avoid  it  in  a  measure.  The  first  question  generally  asked,  is, 
"  where  do  you  come  from,  gentlemen  1"  We  frame  our  answer 
somewhat  in  the  ^tyle  of  Dr.  Franklin.  "  We  come  from  Penn- 
sylvania; our  names,  Nuttall  and  Townscnd  ;  we  are  travelling 
to  Independence  on  foot,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  the  country 
to  advantage,  and  wc  intend  to  proceed  from  thence  across  the 
mountains  to  the  Pacific.  Have  you  any  mules  to  sell  ?" 
The  last  clause  generally  changes  the  conversation,  and  saves 
us  trouble.  To  a  stranger,  and  one  not  accustomed  to  the 
manners  of  the  western  people,  this  kind  of  interrogating  seems 
to  imply  a  lack  of  modesty  and  common  decency,  but  it  is  cer- 
tainly not  so  intended,  each  one  appearing  to  think  himself  enti- 
tled to  gain  as  much  intelligence  regarding  the  private  affairs 
of  a  stranger,  as  a  very  free  use  of  his  lingual  organ  can  pro- 
cure for  him.  ' 

We  found  the  common  gray  squirrel  very  abundant  in 
some  places,  particularly  in  the  low  bottoms  along  water 
courses;  in  some  situations  we  saw  them  skipping  on  al- 
most every  tree.  On  last  Christmas  day,  at  a  squirrel  hunt 
in  this  neighborhood,  about  thirty  persons  killed  the  astonish- 
ing number  of  twelve  hundred,  between  the  rising  and  setting  of 
the  sun. 

This  may  seem  like  useless  barbarity,  but  it  is  justified  by  the 
consideration  fliat  all  the  crops  of  corn  in  the  country  nrc  fro- 


90 


7IARRATIVE   OF   A   JOITRNHV 


quently  destroyed  by  these  animals.  This  extenHivu  flxldrniilitt* 
tion  is  carried  on  every  year,  and  yet  it  is  said  tliat  tliulr  llUirtlxirM 
do  not  appear  to  bo  much  diminished. 

About  mid-day,  on  the  7th,  wo  passed  through  a  Nitmll  tttwn 
called  Columbia,  and  stopped  in  the  evening  at  Uuchoport,  H  liltio 
village  on  the  Missouri  river.  We  were  anxiouHto  find  a  Mt«iHin> 
boat  bound  for  Independence,  as  wo  feared  wo  might  lirtgnr  too 
long  upon  the  road  to  make  the  necessary  proparatiuilH  iht  oiif 
contemplated  journey. 

On  the  following  day,  we  crossed  the  Missouri,  oppoNJtft  Uuclio* 
port,  in  a  small  skiff.  The  road  here,  for  several  miloN,  witldM 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  amid  fine  groves  of  uyeumom  und 
Athenian  poplars,  then  stretches  off  for  about  throe  miluft,  and  dooM 
not  again  approach  it  until  you  arrive  at  Boonvillo,  It  Im  by  Air 
the  most  hilly  road  that  we  have  seen,  and  I  wais  ffPfiuoiitly  to- 
minded,  while  travelling  on  it,  of  our  Chester  county.  W«  Cilttored 
the  town  of  Boonville  early  in  the  afternoon,  ond  took  lodyiligM  in 
a  very  clean,  and  respectably  kept  hotel.  I  was  muah  jtlenwed 
with  Boonville.  It  is  the  prettiest  town  I  have  aeon  In  MiHMOurl  | 
situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  on  un  elevated  and  boAUtifllt  ipol^ 
and  overlooks  a  large  extent  of  lovely  country.  The  town 
contains  two  good  hotels,  (but  no  grog  shops,  properly  so  (^nlltnl,) 
several  well-furnished  stores,  and  five  hundred  inhobitantSi  It 
was  laid  out  thirty  years  ago  by  the  celebrated  wemtom  (lioneofi 
whose  name  it  bears. 

We  saw  here  vast  numbers  of  the  beautifltl  parrot  of  thil 
country,  (the  Psiltacus  carolinensis.)  They  flew  around  m  in 
flocks,  keeping  a  constant  and  loud  screaming,  as  though  ihay 
would  chide  us  for  invading  their  territory ;  and  tho  splendid  green 
and  red  of  their  plumage  glancing  in  the  sunshine,  as  thoy  wttirled 
and  circled  within  a  few  feet  of  us,  had  a  most  magniAcent  ap* 
pearancc.  They  seem  entirely  unsuspicious  of  dangar,  ftnd  nfter 
being  fired  at,  only  huddle  closer  together,  os  if  to  olitflin  protce* 


ACnOBfl  TIIT!   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  F.TC. 


21 


tion  from  each  other,  and  as  their  companions  arc  falling  around 
them,  thoy  curvo  down  their  nocks,  and  look  at  them  fluttering 
upon  the  ground,  as  though  perfectly  at  a  loss  to  account  for 
so  unusual  an  occurrence.  It  is  a  most  inglorious  sort  of 
shooting ;  down  right,  cold-blooded  murder. 

On  the  aflcrnoon  of  the  0th,  a  steamboat  arrived,  on  board  of 
which  we  were  surprised  and  pleased  to  find  Captain  Wycth,  and 
our  **  plunder."  We  embarked  immediately,  and  soon  after, 
were  puffing  along  the  Missouri,  at  the  rate  of  seven  miles  an 
hour.  When  we  stopped  in  the  afternoon  to  "  wood,"  wo  were 
gratified  by  a  sight  of  one  of  the  enormous  catfish  of  this  river 
and  the  Mississippi,  weighing  full  sixty  pounds.  It  is  said, 
however,  that  they  are  sometimes  caught  of  at  least  double  this 
weight.  They  are  excellent  eating,  coarser,  but  quite  as  good  as 
the  common  small  catfish  of  our  rivers.  There  is  nothing 
in  the  scenery  of  the  river  banks  to  interest  the  traveller 
particularly.  The  country  is  generally  level  and  sandy,  re- 
lieved only  by  an  occasional  hill,  and  some  small  rocky  accli- 
vities. 

A  shocking  accident  happened  on  board  during  this  trip.  A 
fine  looking  black  boy  (a  slave  of  one  of  the  deck  passengers) 
was  standing  on  the  platform  near  the  fly-wheel.  The  steam 
had  just  been  stopped  off",  ond  the  wheel  was  moving  slowly  by 
the  impetus  it  had  acquired.  The  poor  boy  unwittingly  thrust 
his  head  between  the  spokes ;  a  portion  of  the  steam  was  at  that 
moment  let  on,  and  his  head  and  shoulders  were  torn  to  frag- 
ments. We  buried  him  on  shore  the  same  day ;  the  poor  wo- 
man, his  mistress,  weeping  and  lamenting  over  him  as  for  her 
own  child.  She  told  me  she  had  brought  him  up  from  an 
infant ;  he  had  been  as  an  aflectionate  son  to  her,  and  for  years 
her  only  support. 

March  2Qth. — On  the  morning  of  the  14th,  we  arrived  at 
Independence    landing,  and   shortly   afterwards,   Mr.   N.   and 


99 


NAnitATIVR    OP    A    JOURNKY 


:  I  ilH 

I   i 


myself  walked  to  the  town,  tlirco  miles  distant.  The  country 
hero  is  very  hilly  nnd  rocky,  thickly  covered  with  timber,  and 
no  prairie  within  several  miles. 

The  sito  of  tho  town  is  beautiful,  and  very  well  selected, 
standing  on  a  high  point  of  land,  and  overlooking  the  surround* 
ing  country,  but  the  town  itself  is  very  inditferent ;  the  houses, 
(about  fifty,)  are  very  much  scattered,  composed  of  logs  and 
clay,  and  are  low  and  inconvenient.  There  are  six  or  eight 
stores  here,  two  taverns,  and  a  few  tipling  houses.  As  yfc  did  not 
fancy  the  town,  nor  the  society  that  we  saw  there,  wo  concluded 
to  take  up  our  residence  at  the  house  on  the  landing  until  the 
time  of  starting  on  our  journey.  We  were  very  much  disop- 
pointed  in  not  being  able  to  purchase  any  mules  hero,  all  the 
saleable  ones  having  been  bought  by  the  Santa  Fee  traders, 
several  weeks  since.  Horses,  also,  are  rather  scarce,  and  aro 
sold  at  higher  prices  than  wo  had  been  taught  to  expect,  the 
demand  for  them  at  this  time  being  greater  than  usual.  Mr.  N. 
and  myself  have,  however,  been  so  fortunate  as  to  find  five 
excellent  animals  amongst  the  hundreds  of  wretched  ones  offered 
for  sale,  and  have  also  engaged  a  man  to  attend  to  packing  our 
loads,  and  perform  the  various  duties  of  our  camp. 

The  men  of  the  party,  to  the  number  of  about  fifty,  are  en- 
camped on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  their  tents  whiten  the  plain 
for  the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  I  have  often  enjoyed  the  view 
on  a  fine  moonlight  evening  from  tlic  door  of  the  house,  or 
perched  upon  a  high  hill  immediately  over  the  spot.  The  beau- 
tiful white  tents,  with  a  light  gleaming  from  each,  the  smoulder- 
ing fires  around  them,  the  incessant  hum  of  the  men,  and 
occasionally  the  lively  notes  of  a  bacchanalian  song,  softened 
and  rendered  sweeter  by  distance.  I  probably  contemplate 
these  and  similar  scenes  with  the  more  interest,  as  they  exhibit 
the  manner  in  which  the  next  five  months  of  my  life  are  to  be 
spent. 


■^l' 


AOROM  THE  BOCKV    W'MNTAlNs,  Wft' 


23 


Wo  have  amongst  our  men  a  grcnt  viui' fy  of  diHjwHitioiw 
Some  who  hnvo  not  been  accustoiuctJ  lo  tho  kind  of  lifti  fhcy  arc 
to  load  in  future,  look  forwurd  to  it  with  ciiger  delight,  and  talk 
of  stirring  incidents  and  hair-hrcadth  'scapes.  Others  who  aro 
more  experienced  seem  to  Ikj  as  easy  and  unconcerned  about  it 
as  a  citizen  would  bo  in  contemplating  a  drive  of  a  few  miles  into 
tho  country.  Some  havo  evidently  been  reared  in  tho  shade, 
and  not  accustomed  to  liardships,  but  the  majority  aro 
strong,  able-bodied  men,  and  many  are  almost  as  rough  as 
the  grizzly  bears,  of  their  feats  upon  which  thoy  are  fond  of 
boasting. 

During  tho  day  tho  captain  keeps  all  his  men  employed  in 
arranging  and  packing  a  vast  variety  of  goods  for  carriage.  In 
addition  to  tho  necesssary  clothing  for  tho  company,  arms,  am- 
munition, &c.,  there  are  thousands  of  trinkets  of  various  kinds, 
beads,  paint,  bells,  rings,  and  such  trumpery,  intended  as  pre- 
sents for  the  Indians,  as  well  as  objects  of  trade  with  them.  Tho 
bales  are  usually  made  to  weigh  about  eighty  pounds,  of  which  a 
horso  carries  two. 

I  am  very  much  pleased  with  the  manner  in  which  Captain 
W.  manages  his  men.  Ho  appears  admirably  calculated  to  gain 
the  good  will,  and  ensure  the  obedience  of  such  a  company,  and 
adopts  the  only  possible  mode  of  accomplishing  his  end.  They 
are  men  who  have  been  accustomed  to  act  independently ;  they 
possess  a  strong  and  indomitable  spirit  which  will  never  succumb 
to  authority,  and  will  only  bo  conciliated  by  kindness  and  fami- 
liarity. I  confess  I  admire  this  spirit.  It  is  noble ;  it  is  free  and 
characteristic,  but  for  myself,  I  have  not  been  accustomed  to 
seeing  it  exercised,  and  when  a  rough  fellow  comes  up  without 
warning,  and  slaps  me  on  the  shoulder,  with,  "  stranger  what  for 
a  gun  is  that  you  carry  ?"  I  start,  and  am  on  the  point  of  making 
an  angry  reply,  but  I  remember  where  I  am,  check  the  feeling 
instantly,  and  submit  the  weapon  to  his  inspection.     Captain  W. 


mi 


m 


ym 


i'!     I 


24 


NARRATIVK    OP    A    JOURNEV 


? ! : 


may  frequently  bo  seen  sitting  on  the  ground,  surrounded  by  a 
knot  of  liis  independents,  consulting  them  as  to  his  present  or* 
rangemcnts  and  future  movements,  and  paying  the  utmost  dofor* 
once  to  the  opinion  of  the  least  among  them. 

We  were  joined  here  by  Mr.  Milton  Sublette,  a  trader  and 
trapper  of  some  ten  or  twelve  years'  standing.  It  is  his  intention  to 
travel  with  us  to  the  mountains,  and  we  are  very  glad  of  his  com- 
pany, both  on  account  of  his  intimate  acquaintance  with  tho 
country,  and  the  accession  to  our  band  of  about  twenty  trained 
hunters,  "  true  as  the  steel  of  their  tried  blades,"  who  have  moro 
than  once  followed  their  brave  and  sagacious  leader  over  the 
very  track  which  we  intend  to  pursue.  He  appears  to  be  a  man 
of  strong  sense  and  courteous  manners,  and  his  men  arc  enthu* 
siastically  attached  to  him. 

Five  missionaries,  who  intend  to  travel  under  our  escort,  have 
also  just  arrived.  The  principal  of  these  is  a  Mr.  Jason  Loo, 
(a  tall  and  powerful  man,  who  looks  as  though  he  were  well  col* 
culatcd  to  buffet  difficulties  in  a  wild  country,)  his  nephew,  Mfi 
Daniel  Lee,  and  three  younger  men  of  respectable  standing  in 
society,  who  have  arrayed  themselves  under  the  missionary 
banner,  chiefly  for  the  gratification  of  seeing  a  new  country,  ond 
participating  in  strange  adventures. 

My  favorites,  the  birds,  are  very  numerous  in  this  vicinity, 
and  I  am  therefore  in  my  element.  Parroquets  are  plentiftjl  in 
the  bottom  lands,  the  two  species  of  squirrel  are  abundant,  and 
rabbits,  turkies,  and  deer  arc  often  killed  by  our  people. 

I  was  truly  rejoiced  to  receive  yesterday  a  letter  from  my 
family.  I  went  to  the  office  immediately  on  my  arrival  here,  cc  n* 
fidently  expecting  to  find  one  lying  there  for  me ;  I  was  told  th  tj 
was  none,  and  I  could  not  believe  it,  or  would  not ;  I  took  all 
the  letters  in  my  hand,  and  examined  each  of  them  myself,  and  I 
suppose  that  during  the  process  my  expressions  of  disappoint* 
mcnt  were  "  loud  and  deep,"  as  I  observed  the  eyes  of  a  nuiill^r 


i 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


35 


of  persons  in  the  store  directed  towards  me  with  manifest  curiosity 
and  surprise.  The  obtuse  creatures  could  not  appreciate  my 
feelings.  I  was  most  anxious  to  receive  intelligence  from  home, 
as  some  of  the  members  of  the  family  were  indisposed  when 
I  left,  and  in  a  few  days  more  I  should  be  traversing  the 
uncultivated  prairie  and  the  dark  forest,  and  perhaps  never  hear 
from  my  home  again.  The  letter  came  at  last,  however,  and 
was  an  inexpressible  consolation  to  me. 

The  little  town  of  Independence  has  within  a  few  weeks  been 
the  scene  of  a  brawl,  which  at  one  time  threatened  to  be  attended 
with  serious  consequences,  but  which  was  happily  settled  without 
bloodshed.  It  had  been  for  a  considerable  time  the  stronghold 
of  a  sect  of  fanatics,  called  Mormons,  or  Mormonites,  who,  as 
their  numbers  increased,  and  they  obtained  power,  showed  an 
inclination  to  lord  it  over  the  less  assuming  inhabitants  of  the  town. 
This  was  a  source  of  irritation  which  they  determined  to  i  id  them- 
selves of  in  a  summary  manner,  and  accordingly  the  whole  town 
rose,  en  masse,  and  the  poor  followers  of  the  prophet  were  forcibly 
ejected  from  the  community.  They  took  refuge  in  the  little  town 
of  Liberty,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  the  villagers 
here  are  now  in  a  constant  state  of  feverish  alarm.  Reports 
have  been  circulated  that  the  Mormons  are  preparing  to  attack 
the  town,  and  put  the  inhabitants  to  the  sword,  and  they  have 
therefore  stationed  sentries  along  the  river  for  several  miles,  to 
prevent  the  landing  of  the  enemy.  The  troops  parade  and  study 
military  tactics  every  day,  and  seem  determined  to  repel,  with 
spirit,  the  threatened  invasion.  The  probability  is,  that  the  re- 
port respecting  the  attack,  is,  as  John  Bull  says,  "  all  humbug," 
and  this  training  and  marching  has  already  been  a  source  of  no 
little  annoyance  to  us,  as  the  miserable  little  skeleton  of  a  saddler 
who  is  engaged  to  work  for  our  party,  has  neglected  his  busi- 
ness, and  must  go  a  soldiering  in  stead.     A  day  or  two  ago,  I  tried 

to  convince  the  little  man  that  he  was  of  no  use  to  the  army, 

4 


S6 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNKY 


for  if  a  Mormou  were  to  say  pooh  at  him,  it  would  blow  him 
away  beyond  the  reach  of-  danger  or  of  glory ;  but  he  thought 
not,  and  no  doubt  concluded  that  he  was  a  "  marvellous  pro- 
per man,"  so  we  were  put  to  great  inconvenience  waiting  for  our 
saddles. 


ACllOSa   THE   ROCKV   MOUNVAINS,  ETC. 


97 


CHAPTER  II. 


Departure  of  the  caravan — .4  storm  on  the  prairie — Arrantement  of  tlie  camp — 
The  cook's  desertion—Kunzas  Indians — Kanzas  riva— Indian  lodges- 
Passage  of  the  river — Buffalo  canoes— Kanzas  chief — Costume  of  the  In- 
dians— Upper  Kaw  village— t/ieir  wigwams — Catfish  and  ravens — Return 
of  Mr.  Sublette — Pawnee  trace — Desertion  of  three  men — Difficulties  occa- 
sioned by  losing  tlie  trail— Intelligence  of  Mr,  Sublette's  party— Escape  of 
the  band  of  horses — Visit  of  three  Otto  Indians —Anecdote  of  Richardson,  the 
chitf  hunter — his  appearance  and  character — fflUte  wolves  and  antelopes- 
Buffalo  bones — Stiblette'a  deserted  camp— Lurking  wolves. 


On  the  28th  of  April,  at  10  o'clock  in  the  morning,  our 
caravan,  consisting  of  seventy  men,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty 
horses,  began  its  march ;  Captain  Wyeth  and  Milton  Sublette 
took  the  lead,  Mr.  N.  and  myself  rode  beside  them ;  then  the 
men  in  double  file,  each  leading,  with  a  line,  two  horses  heavily 
laden,  and  Captain  Thing  (Captain  W.'s  assistant)  brought  up 
the  rear.  The  band  of  missionaries,  with  their  horned  cattle, 
rode  along  the  flanks. 

I  frequently  sallied  out  from  my  station  to  look  at  and  admire 
the  appearance  of  the  cavalcade,  and  as  we  rode  out  from  the 
encampment,  our  horses  prancing,  and  neighing,  and  pawing 
the  ground,  it  was  altogether  so  exciting  that  I  could  scarcely 
contain  myself.  Every  man  in  the  company  seemed  to  feel  a 
portion  of  the  same  kind  of  enthusiasm;  uproarious  bursts  of 
merriment,  and  gay  and  lively  songs,  were  constantly  echoing 
along  the  line.  Wc  were  certainly  a  most  merry  and  happy 
company.  What  cared  we  for  the  future  ?  We  had  reason  to 
expect  that  crc  long  difficulties  and  dangers,  in  various  shapes, 


28 


NARRATIVE   OP   A   JOURNEY 


illliiii 


11 


would  assail  us,  but  no  anticipation  of  reverses  could  check  the 
happy  exuberance  of  our  spirits. 

Oui-  road  lay  over  a  vast  rolling  prairie,  with  occasional 
small  spots  of  timber  at  the  distance  of  several  miles  apart, 
and  this  will  no  doubt  be  the  complexion  of  the  track  for  some 
weeks. 

In  the  afternoon  we  crossed  the  Big  Blue  river  at  a  shallow 
ford.  Here  we  saw  a  number  of  beautiful  yellow-headed 
troopials,  {Icterus  zanthrocephalus,)  feeding  upon  the  prairie  in 
company  with  large  flocks  of  black  birds,  and  like  these,  they 
often  alight  upon  the  backs  of  our  horses. 

29th. — A  heavy  rain  fell  all  the  morning,  which  had  the 
eftect  of  calming  our  transports  in  a  great  measure,  and  in 
the  afternoon  it  was  succeeded  by  a  tremendous  hail  storm. 
During  the  rain,  our  party  left  the  road,  and  proceeded  about  a 
hundred  yards  from  it  to  a  range  of  bushes,  near  a  stream 
of  water,  for  the  purpose  of  encamping.  We  had  just  arrived 
hero,  and  had  not  yet  dismounted,  when  the  hail  storm  com- 
menced. It  came  on  very  suddenly,  and  the  stones,  as  large  aa 
musket  balls,  dashing  upon  our  horses,  created  such  a  panic 
among  them,  that  they  plunged,  and  kicked,  and  many  of  them 
threw  their  loads,  and  fled  wildly  over  the  plain.  They  were  all 
overtaken,  however,  and  as  the  storm  was  not  of  long  duration, 
they  were  soon  appeased,  and  staked  for  the  night. 

To  stake  or  fasten  a  horse  for  the  night,  he  is  provided  with 
a  strong  leathern  halter,  with  an  iron  ring  attached  to  the  chin 
strap.  To  this  ring,  a  rope  of  hemp  or  plaited  leather,  twenty- 
two  feet  in  length,  is  attached,  and  the  opposite  end  of  the  line 
made  fast  with  several  clove  hitches  around  an  oak  or  hickory 
pin,  two  and  a  half  feet  long.  The  top  of  this  pin  or  stake  is 
ringed  with  iron  to  prevent  its  being  bruised,  and  it  is  then 
driven  to  the  head  in  the  ground.  For  greater  security,  hopples 
made  of  stout  leather  are  buckled  around  the  fore  legs ;  and  then. 


'   U'liii 


Armo8i  Ttti!  nocKY  mountains,  etc. 


89 


if  the  tackling  ix  good,  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a  horse  to 
escape.  Cars  id  nlwttyo  talton  to  stake  him  in  a  spot  where  he 
may  cat  grnnit  nil  night.  The  animals  are  placed  sufficiently 
for  opart  to  prevent  them  interfering  with  each  other. 

Camping  out  to-night  is  not  so  agreeable  as  it  might  be,  in 
consequence  of  the  ground  Ixjing  very  wet  and  muddy,  and  our 
blankets  (our  only  bedding)  thoroughly  soaked ;  but  we  expect 
to  encounter  greater  diflicultics  than  these  ere  long,  and  we  do 
not  murmur. 

A  description  of  tho  formation  of  our  camp  may,  perhaps, 
not  bo  amiKH  here.  Tho  party  is  divided  into  messes  of  eighj 
men,  and  each  mcH»  is  allowed  a  separate  tent.  The  captain  of 
a  mess,  (who  in  generally  an  "  old  hand,"  i.  e.  an  experienced 
forester,  hiuUer,  or  trapper,)  receives  each  morning  the  rations  of 
pork,  flour,  &c.  for  his  people,  and  they  choose  one  of  their  body 
as  cook  for  the  whole.  Our  camp  now  consists  of  nine  messes, 
of  which  ('aptttin  W.'in  forms  one,  although  it  only  contains  four 
persons  bctiden  the  cook. 

When  wo  arrivo  in  tho  evening  at  a  suitable  spot  for  an  en- 
campment, Cuptnin  W.  rides  round  a  space  which  he  considers 
largo  enough  t<>  accommodate  it,  and  directs  where  each  mess 
shall  pitch  its  tent.  Tho  men  immediately  unload  their  horses, 
and  place  their  bales  of  goods  in  the  direction  indicated,  and  in 
such  monner,  as  in  case  of  need,  to  form  a  sort  of  fortification 
and  defence.  When  all  the  messes  are  arranged  in  this  way, 
tho  comp  forms  a  hollow  square,  in  the  centre  of  which  the  horses 
ore  placed  and  staked  firmly  to  tho  ground.  The  guard  consists 
of  from  six  tf»  eight  men,  and  is  relieved  three  times  each  night, 
and  80  arranged  that  eoch  gang  may  serve  alternate  nights. 
Tho  captain  of  n  guard  (who  is  generally  also  the  captain  of  a 
mess)  collects  his  people  nt  the  appointed  hour,  and  posts  them 
around  outside  the  camp  in  such  situations  that  they  may  com- 


80 


NARRATIVE   OP   A   JOURNEY 


il 


lil! 

Ill 


mand  a  view  of  the  environs,  and  be  ready  to  give  the  alarm  in 
case  of  danger. 

The  captain  cries  the  hour  regularly  by  a  watch,  and  alVa 
well,  every  fifteen  minutes,  and  each  man  of  the  guard  is  re- 
quired to  repeat  this  call  in  rotation,  which  if  any  one  should 
fail  to  do,  it  is  fair  to  conclude  that  he  is  asleep,  and  he  is  then 
immediately  visited  and  stirred  up.  In  case  of  defection  of  this 
kind,  our  laws  adjudge  to  the  delinquent  the  hard  sentence  of 
walking  three  days.  As  yet  none  of  our  poor  fellows  have 
incurred  this  penalty,  and  the  probability  is,  that  it  would  not  at 
this  time  be  enforced,  as  we  arc  yet  in  a  country  where  little 
molestation  is  to  be  apprehended ;  but  in  the  course  of  another 
week's  travel,  when  thieving  and  ill-designing  Indians  will  bo 
outlying  on  our  trail,  it  will  be  necessary  that  the  strictest 
watch  be  kept,  and,  for  the  preservation  of  our  persons  and  pro- 
perty, that  our  laws  shall  be  rigidly  enforced. 

May  1st. — On  rising  this  morning,  and  inquiring  about  our 
prospects  of  a  breakfast,  we  discovered  that  the  cook  of  our  mess 
(a  little,  low-browed,  ill-conditioned  Yankee)  had  decamped  in 
the  night,  and  left  our  service  to  seek  for  a  better.  He 
probably  thought  the  duties  too  hard  for  him,  but  as  he 
was  a  miserable  cook,  we  should  not  have  much  regretted 
his  departure,  had  he  not  thought  proper  to  take  with  him  an 
excellent  rifle,  powder-horn,  shot-pouch,  and  other  matters  that 
did  not  belong  to  him.  It  is  only  surprising  that  he  did  not 
select  one  of  our  best  horses  to  carry  him  ;  but  as  he  had  the 
grace  to  take  his  departure  on  foot,  and  wo  have  enough  men 
without  him,  we  can  wish  him  God  speed,  and  a  fair  run  to  the 
settlements. 

We  encamped  this  evening  on  a  small  branch  of  the  Kanzas 
river.  As  we  approached  our  stopping  place,  we  'vojo  joined 
by  a  band  of  Kunzas  Indians,  (commonly  called  Kaw  Indians.) 
They  arc  encamped  in  a  neighboring  copse,  where  they  have 


i 


ACBOSS    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


91 


six  lodges.  This  party  is  a  small  division  of  a  portion  of  this 
tribe,  who  aro  constantly  wandering;  but  although  their  journeys 
are  sometimes  pretty  extensive,  they  seldom  approach  nearer  to 
the  settlements  than  they  aro  at  present.  They  are  very 
friendly,  are  not  so  tawdrily  decorated  as  those  we  saw  below,  and 
use  little  or  no  paint.  This  may,  however,  bo  accounted  for  by 
their  not  having  the  customary  ornaments,  &c.,  as  their  ears  aro 
filled  with  trinkets  of  various  kinds,  and  are  horribly  gashed  in 
the  usual  manner.  The  dress  of  most  that  we  have  seen,  has 
consisted  of  ordinary  woollen  pantaloons  received  from  the 
whites,  and  their  only  covering,  from  the  waist  up,  is  a  blanket 
or  buffalo  robe.  The  head  is  shaved  somewhat  in  the  manner  of 
the  S&ques  and  Foxes,  leaving  the  well  known  scalping  tufl ;  but 
unlike  the  Indians  just  mentioned,  the  hair  is  allowed  to  grow 
upon  the  middle  of  the  head,  and  extends  bockwards  in  a  longi- 
tudinal ridge  to  the  occiput.  It  is  here  gathered  into  a  kind  of 
queue,  plaited,  and  suffered  to  hang  down  the  back.  There 
were  amongst  them  several  squaws,  with  young  children  tied  to 
their  backs,  and  a  number  of  larger  urchins  ran  about  our  camp 
wholly  naked. 

The  whole  of  the  following  day  we  remained  in  camp,  trading 
buffalo  robes,  apishemeaus,  &c.,  of  the  Indians.  These  people 
became  at  length  somewhat  troublesome  to  us  who  were  not 
traders,  by  a  very  free  exercise  of  'cir  bogging  propensities. 
They  appear  to  be  exceedingly  poor  and  needy,  and  take  the 
liberty  of  asking  unhesitatingly,  and  without  apparent  fear  of 
refusal,  for  any  articles  that  happen  to  take  their  fancy. 

I  have  observed,  that  among  the  Indians  nov/  with  us,  none 
but  the  chief  uses  the  pipe.  He  smokes  the  article  called 
kanikanik, — a  mixture  of  tobacco  and  the  dried  leaves  of  the 
poke  plant,  {Phytolacca  dccandra.)  I  was  amused  last  evening 
by  the  old  chief  asking  mc  in  his  impressive  manner,  (first  by 
pointing  with  his  finger  towards  the  sunset,  and  then  raising  his 


32 


NARRATIVE    OK    A    JOVRMIV 


m' 


I     i 


hands  high  over  his  head,)  if  I  was  going  to  the  mountains. 
On  answering  him  in  the  affirmative,  ho  depressed  his  hands, 
and  passed  them  around  his  head  in  both  directions,  then  turned 
quiciily  away  from  me,  with  a  very  solemn  and  significant  ugh/ 
He  meant,  doubtless,  that  my  brain  was  turned ;  in  i)lain  lan- 
guage, that  I  was  a  fool.  This  may  bo  attributed  to  his  horror 
of  the  Blackfcet  Indians,  with  whom  a  portion  of  his  tribe  was 
formerly  at  war.  The  poor  Kaws  are  said  to  have  suffered 
dreadfully  in  these  savage  conflicts,  and  were  finally  forced  to 
abandon  the  country  to  their  hereditary  foes. 

We  were  on  the  move  early  the  next  morning,  and  at  noon 
arrived  at  the  Kanzas  river,  a  branch  of  the  Missouri.  This  is  a 
broad  and  not  very  deep  stream,  with  the  water  dark  and  turbid, 
like  that  of  the  former.  As  we  approached  it,  we  saw  a  number 
of  Indian  lodges,  made  of  saplings  driven  into  the  ground,  bent 
over  and  tied  at  top,  and  covered  with  bark  and  buflTalo  skins. 
These  lodges,  or  wigwams,  are  numerous  on  both  sides  of  the 
river.  As  we  passed  them,  the  inhabitants,  men,  women,  and 
children,  flocked  out  to  seo  us,  and  almost  prevented  our  pro- 
gress by  their  eager  greetings.  Our  party  stopped  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  and  the  horses  were  unloaded  and  driven  into  the 
water.  They  swam  beautifully,  and  with  great  regularity,  and 
arrived  safely  on  the  opposite  shore,  where  they  were  confined 
in  a  large  lot,  enclosed  with  a  fence.  After  some  difficulty,  and 
considerable  detention,  we  succeeded  in  procuring  a  large  flat 
bottomed  boat,  embarked  ourselves  and  goods  in  it,  and  landed 
on  the  opposite  side  near  our  horse  pen,  where  we  encamped. 
The  lodges  are  numerous  here,  and  there  are  also  some  good 
frame  houses  inhabited  by  a  few  white  men  and  women,  who 
subsist  chiefly  by  raising  cattle,  which  they  drive  to  the  settle- 
ments below.  They,  as  well  as  the  Indians,  raise  an  abundance 
of  good  corn ;  potatoes  and  other  vegetables  are  also  plentiful, 
and  they  can  therefore  live  sufficiently  well. 


ACHOSS    THE   HOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


88 


The  canoos  used  by  the  Indians  are  mostly  made  of  buflalo 
skins,  stretched,  while  recent,  over  a  light  frame  work  of  wood, 
the  scams  sewed  with  sinews,  and  so  closely,  as  to  be  wholly 
impervious  to  water.  These  light  vessels  are  remarkably 
buoyant,  and  capable  of  sustaining  very  heavy  burthens. 

In  the  evening  the  principal  Kanzas  chief  paid  us  a  visit  in 
our  tent.  He  is  a  young  man  about  twenty-five  years  of  age, 
straight  as  a  poplar,  and  with  a  noble  countenance  and  bearing, 
but  he  appeared  to  me  to  be  marvellously  deficient  in  most  of  the 
requisites  which  go  to  make  the  character  of  a  real  Indian  chief, 
at  least  of  such  Indian  chiefs  as  we  read  of  in  our  popular  books. 
I  begin  to  suspect,  in  truth,  that  these  lolly  and  dignified  attributes 
arc  more  apt  to  exist  in  the  fertile  brain  of  the  novelist,  than  in 
reality.  Bo  this  as  it  may,  ovr  chief  is  a  very  lively,  laughing, 
and  rather  playful  personage ;  perhaps  he  may  put  on  his  dignity, 
like  a  glove,  when  it  suits  his  convenience. 

Wo  remained  in  camp  the  whole  of  next  day,  and  traded  with 
the  Indians  for  a  considerable  number  of  robes,  apishemeaus, 
and  halter  ropes  of  hide.  Our  fat  bacon  and  tobacco  were  in 
great  demand  for  these  useful  commodities. 

The  Kaws  living  here  appear  to  bo  much  more  wealthy  than 
those  who  joined  our  camp  on  the  prairie  below.  They  are  in 
better  condition,  more  richly  dressed,  cleaner,  and  more  com- 
fortable than  their  wandering  brothers.  The  men  have  gene- 
rally fine  countenances,  but  all  the  women  that  I  have  seen  are 
homely.  I  cannot  admire  them.  Their  dress  consists,  univer- 
sally of  deer  skin  leggings,  belted  around  the  loins,  and  over 
the  upper  part  of  the  body  a  buffalo  jobc  or  blanket. 

On  the  20th  in  the  morning,  we  packed  our  horses  and  rode 
out  of  the  Kaw  settlement,  leaving  the  river  immediately,  and 
making  a  N.  W.  by  W.  course — and  the  next  day  came  to  an- 
other village  of  the  same  tribe,  consisting  of  about  thirty  lodges, 

and  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  level  prairie. 

5 


i 


I   ,  I 


mm 


34 


NARRATIVR    OP    A    JOUHNKV 


Tho  Indians  stopped  our  cnrnvan  alniuMt  by  fomu  '•'•<! 
evinced  so  much  anxiety  to  trade  with  us,  that  wu  cituUI  not  w<i|t 
avoid  gratifying  them.  Wc  remained  with  thwu  uhuiit  two 
hours,  and  bought  corn,  moccasins  and  K^(;;ginKW  in  iihiuidiiHC<i< 
TJie  lodges  hero  aro  constructed  very  dillbrently  iVuin  lliowf  of 
the  lower  village.  They  arc  made  of  largo  nnd  »tro»K  liiiilxtrM, 
a  ridge  pole  runs  along  the  top,  and  the  dinbrtuit  \Himm  nm  ihst* 
ened  together  by  leathern  thongs.  Tiio  roofn,— whittli  (im  «lll- 
gle,  making  but  one  angle, — are  of  stout  poplar  l)»»'k,  tuu\  form 
an  excellent  defence,  both  against  rain  and  thu  myi*  ul'  th«  Kiin, 
which  must  be  intense  during  midsummer  in  thiu  r(|;ioi: .  TIiuno 
prairies  arc  oAcn  visited  by  heavy  gales  of  wind,  'vhi'Oi  would 
probably  demolish  the  huts,  were  they  built  of  fmil  iriMUirirtls 
like  those  below.  We  encamped  in  the  evening  on  a  »niftll  Mtrcttm 
called  Little  Vermillion  creek,  where  we  found  an  ubdtidAnco  of 
excellent  catfish,  exactly  similar  to  tlioso  of  the  H«lhiylkill 
river.  Our  people  caught  them  in  great  nuuiburMi  llcrrt  wo 
first  saw  the  large  ravens,  {Corvus  cor  »..".)  Thoy  hoppod  (ibout 
tho  ground  all  around  our  camp ;  and  as  wc  IjO  it,  th»'y  f'llttio  In* 
pell-mell,  croaking,  fighting,  and  scrambling  for  tlio  lltw  frug* 
ments  that  remained. 

Sth. — This  morning  Mr.  Sublette  left  us  to  return  to  tho  mi' 
tlements.  He  has  been  suffering  for  a  considorablo  tiiSMt  with  tt 
fungus  in  one  of  his  legs,  and  it  has  become  60  mm\\  wof«(t'  «inco 
we  started,  in  consequence  of  irritation  caused  by  riding,  fhrtt  ho 
finds  it  impossible  to  proceed.  His  departuro  hfM  thrown  a 
gloorh  over  the  whole  camp.  Wo  all  admired  him  fop  iiii^  ttmin* 
ble  qualities,  and  his  kind  and  obliging  dispositioni  Pof  myixolf, 
I  had  become  so  much  attached  to  him,  that  I  fool  quitii  mslfln* 
choly  about  his  leaving  us.* 

*I  have  bince  Iciiriicd  that  liis  limb  was  twice  ampiitateili  hut  DOtwitlt^lHrnlillg  llils, 
tlic  disease  lingcifd  in  the  system,  and  aliout  a  yi-ur  ago,  tDi'i»il)H(P<l  lti«  lifi<. 


AC'KUSH  THE  HOCKY  MOUNTAINS,  KT(;. 


86 


The  weather  is  now  very  warm,  and  thoro  has  been  a  dead 
calm  all  dny,  which  renders  travelling  most  uncomfortable. 
We  have  frequently  been  favored  with  fresh  breezes,  which 
make  it  very  agreeable,  but  the  moment  these  fail  us  wo  are 
almost  suffocated  with  intense  heat.  Our  rate  of  travelling  is 
about  twenty  miles  per  day,  which,  in  this  warm  weather,  and 
with  heavily  packed  horses,  is  as  much  as  we  can  accomplish 
with  comfort  to  ourselves  and  animuls. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  we  crossed  a  broad  Indian 
trail,  bearing  northerly,  supposed  to  be  about  five  days  old,  and 
to  have  been  made  by  a  war  party  of  Pawnees.  We  are  now  in 
the  country  traversed  by  these  Indians,  and  are  daily  expecting 
to  see  them,  but  Captain  W.  seems  very  desirous  to  avoid  them, 
on  account  of  their  well  known  thieving  propensities,  and  quar- 
relsome disposition.  These  Indians  go  every  year  to  the  plains 
of  the  Platte,  where  they  spend  some  weeks  in  hunting  the 
buffalo,  jerking  their  meat,  and  preparing  their  skins  for  robes ; 
they  then  push  on  to  the  Black  Hills,  and  look  out  for  the  parties 
of  Blackfcct,  which  arc  also  bound  to  the  Platte  river  plains 
When  the  opposing  parties  come  in  collision,  (which  frequently 
happens,)  the  most  cruel  and  sanguinary  conflicts  ensue.  In 
the  evening,  three  of  our  men  deserted.  Like  our  quondam 
cook,  they  all  took  rifles,  &c.,  that  did  not  belong  to  them,  and 
one  of  these  happened  to  be  a  favorite  piece  of  Captain  W.'s, 
which  had  done  him  good  service  in  his  journey  across  this 
country  two  years  ago.  He  was  very  much  attached  to.  the  gun, 
and  in  despite  of  his  calm  and  cool  philosophy  in  all  vexatious 
mutters,  he  cannot  altogether  concQal  his  clingrin. 

The  little  streams  of  this  part  of  the  country  arc  fringed  with 
a  thick  growth  of  pretty  trees  and  bushes,  and  the  buds  are  now 
swelling,  and  the  leaves  expanding,  to  "  welcome  back  the 
spring."  The  birds,  too,  sing  joyously  amongst  them,  grosbeaks, 
thrushes,  and  buntings,  a  merry  and  musical  band.     I  am  par- 


N.VIIKATIVE    or    A    JUIIKNEY 


^iili 


ticulnrly  fontl  of  sallying  out  early  in  tho  mornin<r,  and  strolling 
around  tlio  camp.  Tin;  light  brcczo  just  bends  tho  tall  tops  of 
the  grass  on  the  boundless  prairie,  the  birds  iiru  ronimcncing 
tl>eir  matin  carollings,  nnd  ail  ntiluro  looks  fresh  and  l)(;nutiful. 
The  horses  of  the  camp  are  lying  comfortably  on  their  sides, 
and  seem,  by  tho  glances  which  they  give  mo  in  passing,  to 
know  that  their  hour  of  toil  is  approaching,  and  tho  patient  kino 
are  ruminating  in  hnppy  unconsciousness. 

nth. — VVc  encountered  some  rather  serious  dilRcuItics  to-doy 
in  fording  several  wide  and  deep  creeks,  having  muddy  and 
miry  bottoms.  Many  of  our  horses,  (and  particularly  those  that 
wore  packed,)  fell  into  tho  water,  and  it  was  witii  tho  greatest 
difllculty  ond  labor  that  they  were  extricated.  Some  of  tho 
scenes  presented  were  rather  ludicrous  to  those  who  were 
not  actors  in  them.  The  floundering,  kicking,  and  falling  of 
horses  in  tho  heavy  slough,  man  and  beast  rolling  over  together, 
and  aquattering  amongst  tho  black  mud,  and  the  wo-bcgone 
looks  of  horse,  rider,  and  horse-furniture,  often  excited  a  smile, 
even  while  wo  pitied  their  begrimed  and  miserable  plight.  All 
these  troubles  arc  owing  to  our  having  lost  tho  trail  yesterday, 
nnd  wo  have  been  travelling  to-day  as  neorly  in  the  proper 
course  as  our  compass  indicated,  and  hope  soon  to  fmd  it. 

12th. — Our  scouts  camo  in  this  morning  with  the  intelligence 
that  they  had  found  a  large  trail  of  white  men,  bearing  N.  W. 
We  have  no  doubt  that  this  is  Wm.  Sublette's  party,  and  that  it 
passed  us  last  evening.  They  must  have  travelled  very  rapidly 
to  overtake  us  so  soon,  and  no  doubt  had  men  ahead  watching 
our  motions.  It  seems  rather  unfriendly,  perhaps,  to  run  by  us 
in  this  furtive  way,  without  even  stopping  to  say  good  morning, 
but  Sublette  is  attached  to  a  rival  company,  and  all  stratagems 
are  deemed  allowable  when  interest  is  concerned.  It  is  a 
matter  of  some  moment  to  be   the  first  at  the  mountain  ren- 


iii! 


ACItONS   TUB   no(;KY    MnirNTAINt,  KTC. 


(IczvoiiH,  in  ortkr  to  obtain  the  furs  brought  every  summer  by 
tlio  trnppors. 

Lost  night,  while  I  wns  scrvinj?  on  guard,  I  observed  nn 
unusual  commotion  nmonj?  our  band  of  horses,  a  wild  neighinj;, 
snortinjj,  nnd  pltinciinj;,  for  which  I  wns  luinbic  to  occoimt.  I 
directed  several  of  my  men  to  go  in  and  appease  them,  and 
endeavor  to  ascertain  the  cause.  They  had  scarcely  started, 
however,  when  about  half  of  the  band  broke  their  fastenings, 
snapped  the  hopples  on  their  legs,  and  went  dashing  right 
through  tho  midst  of  tlio  camp.  Down  went  several  of  the  tento, 
the  rampart  of  goods  was  cleared  in  gallant  style,  and  away 
went  the  frightened  animals  at  full  speed  over  the  plain.  Tho 
whole  camp  was  instantly  aroused.  The  horses  that  remained, 
were  bridled  as  quickly  as  possible ;  we  mounted  tliem  without 
saddles,  and  set  olF  in  hard  pursuit  aflcr  tho  fugitives.  Tho 
night  was  pitch  dark,  but  wo  needed  no  light  to  point  out  tho 
way,  as  tho  clattering  of  hoofs  ahead  on  the  hard  ground  of  tho 
prairie,  sounded  like  thunder.  After  riding  half  an  hour,  wo 
overtook  about  forty  of  them,  and  surrounding  them  with  difficulty, 
succeeded  in  driving  them  back,  and  securing  them  as  before. 
Twenty  men  were  then  immediately  despatched  to  scour  tho 
country,  and  bring  in  the  remainder.  This  party  was  headed 
by  Mr.  Lee,  our  missionary,  (who,  with  liis  usual  promptitude, 
volunteered  his  services,)  and  they  returned  early  this  morning, 
bringing  nearly  sixty  more.  We  find,  however,  upon  counting 
the  horses  in  our  possession,  that  there  arc  yet  three  missing. 

While  wo  were  at  brcakfast,tl)rce  Indians  of  the  Otto  tribe,  camo 
to  our  camp  to  sec,  and  smoke  with  us.  These  were  men  of 
rather  short  stature,  but  strong  and  firmly  built.  Their  coun- 
tenances resemble  in  general  expression  those  of  the  Kanzas, 
and  their  dresses  are  very  similar.  We  arc  all  of  opinion,  that 
it  is  to  these  Indians  we  owe  our  diilkn  Ities  of  last  night,  and 
we  have  no  doubt  that  the  three  missing  horses  are  now  in  their 


88 


NAHRATIVE    OF    A    JOURNEY 


possession,  but  as  we  cannot  prove  it  upon  them,  and  cannot 
even  converse  with  them,  (having  no  interpreters,)  wo  uro  com* 
polled  to  submit  to  our  loss  in  silence.  Perhaps  we  should  oven 
be  thankful  that  wc  have  not  lost  more.  » 

While  these  people  were  smoking  the  pipe  of  peace  with  us, 
after  breakfast,  I  observed  tliat  Richardson,  our  chief  hunter,  (iin 
experienced  man  in  this  country,  of  a  tall  and  iron  frame,  and 
almost  child-like  simplicity  of  character,  in  fact  an  exact  com), 
terpart  of  ^awAr-ej/e  in  his  younger  days,)  stood  aloof,  and  K* 
fused  to  sit  in  the  circle,  in  which  it  was  always  the  custom  of  the 
old  hands  to  join. 

Feeling  some  curiosity  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  this  unusual 
diffidence,  I  occasionally  allowed  my  eyes  to  wander  to  the  spot 
where  our  sturdy  hunter  stood  looking  moodily  upon  us,  as  tho 
calamet  passed  from  hand  to  hand  around  the  circle,  and  I 
thought  I  perceived  him  now  and  then  cast  a  furtive  glance  at 
one  of  the  Indians  who  sat  opposite  to  me,  and  sometimes  his 
countenance  would  assume  an  expression  almost  demoniacal,  n» 
though  the  most  fierce  and  deadly  passions  were  raging  in  his 
bosom.  I  felt  certain  that  hereby  hung  a  talc,  and  I  watched  for 
a  corresponding  expression,  or  at  least  a  look  of  consciousness, 
in  the  face  of  my  opposite  neighbor,  but  expression  there  wos 
none.  His  large  features  were  settled  in  a  tranquillity  which  nO' 
thing  could  disturb,  and  as  he  puffed  the  smoke  in  huge  volumM 
from  his  mouth,  and  the  fragrant  vapor  wreathed  and  curled 
around  his  head,  he  seemed  the  embodied  spirit  of  meekness  and 
taciturnity. 

The  camp  moved  soon  after,  and  I  lost  no  time  in  overhaul' 
ing  Richardson,  and  asking  an  explanation  of  his  singular  con* 
duct. 

"  Why,"  said  he,  "  that  fryen  that  sat  opposite  to  you,  is  my 
bitterest  enemy.  I  was  once  going  down  alone  from  the  rendoK> 
vous  with  letters  for  St.  Louis,  and  when  I  arrived  on  tho  lower 


ACROSS    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


80 


part  of  the  Platte  river,  (just  a  short  distance  beyond  us  here,) 
I  fell  in  with  about  a  dozen  Ottos.  They  were  known  to  be  a 
friendly  tribe,  and  I  therefore  felt  no  fe<ir  of  them.  I  dismounted 
from  my  horse  and  sat  with  them  upon  the  ground.  It  was  in 
the  depth  of  winter ;  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow,  and 
the  river  was  frozen  solid.  While  I  was  thinking  of  nothing  but 
my  dinner,  which  I  was  then  about  preparing,  four  or  five  cf  the 
cowards  jumped  on  me,  mastered  my  rifle,  and  held  my  arms  fast, 
while  they  took  from  me  my  knife  and  tomahawk,  my  flint  and 
steel,  and  all  my  ammunition.  They  then  loosed  me,  and  told 
me  to  be  off.  I  begged  them,  for  the  love  of  God,  to  give  me  my 
rifle  and  a  few  loads  of  ammmunition,  or  I  should  starve  before 
I  could  reach  the  settlements.  No — I  should  have  nothing,  and 
if  I  did  not  start  off  immediately,  they  would  throw  me  under  the 
ice  of  the  river.  And,"  continued  the  excited  hunter, — while 
he  ground  his  teeth  with  bitter,  and  uncontrollable  rage, — "  that 
man  that  sat  opposite  to  you  was  the  chief  of  them.  He  recog- 
nised me,  and  knew  very  well  the  reason  why  I  would  not  smoke 
with  him.  I  tell  you,  sir,  if  ever  I  meet  that  man  in  any  other 
situation  than  that  in  which  I  saw  him  this  morning,  I'll  shoot  him 
with  as  little  hesitation  as  I  would  shoot  a  deer.  Several  years 
have  passed  since  the  perpetration  of  this  outrage,  but  it  is  still 
as  fresh  in  my  memory  as  ever,  and  I  again  declare,  that  if 
ever  an  opportunity  offers,  I  will  kill  that  man."  "  But,  Richard- 
son, did  they  take  your  horse  also  ?"  "  To  be  sure  they  did, 
and  my  blankets,  and  every  thing  I  had,  except  my  clothes."  "  But 
how  did  you  subsist  until  you  reached  the  settlements  ?  You  had 
a  long  journey  before  you."  "  Why,  set  to  trappin'  prairie  squir- 
rels with  little  nooses  made  out  of  the  hairs  of  my  head."  I 
should  remark  that  his  hair  was  so  long,  that  it  fell  in  heavy 
masses  on  his  shoulders.  "  But  squirrels  in  winter,  Richardson, 
I  never  heard  of  squirrels  in  winter."  "  Well  but  there  was 
plenty  of  them,  though ;  little  white  ones,  that  lived  among  the 


x 


40 


NARKATIVE    OF    A    JOURNKY 


I   ;, 


snow."  "  Well,  really,  this  was  an  unpleasant  sort  of  adventure 
enough,  but  let  me  suggest  that  you  do  very  wrong  to  remember 
it  with  such  blood-thirsty  feelings."  He  shook  his  head  with  a 
dogged  and  determined  air,  and  rode  off  as  if  anxious  to  escape  a 
lecture. 

A  little  sketch  of  our  hunter  may  perhaps  not  be  uninterest- 
ing, as  he  will  figure  somewhat  in  the  following  pages,  being  ono 
of  the  principal  persons  of  the  party,  the  chief  hunter,  and  a  man 
upon  whose  sagacity  and  knowledge  of  the  country  we  all  in  a 
great  measure  depended. 

In  height  he  is  several  inches  over  six  feet,  of  a  spare  but  re- 
markably strong  and  vigorous  frame,  and  a  countenance  of 
almost  infantile  simplicity  and  openness.  In  disposition  he  is 
mild  and  affable,  but  when  roused  to  indignation,  his  keen  eyes 
glitter  and  flash,  the  muscles  of  his  large  mouth  work  convul- 
sively, and  he  looks  the  very  impersonation  of  the  spirit  of  evil. 
He  is  implacable  in  anger,  and  bitter  in  revenge;  never  forgetting 
a  kindness,  but  remembering  an  injury  with  equal  tenacity. 
Such  is  the  character  of  our  hunter,  and  none  who  have  known 
him  as  I  have,  will  accuse  me  of  delineating  from  fancy.  His  na- 
tive place  is  Connecticut,  which  he  left  about  twelve  years  ago, 
and  has  ever  since  been  engaged  in  roaming  through  the  bound- 
less plains  and  rugged  mountains  of  the  west,  often  enduring  the 
extremity  of  famine  and  fatigue,  exposed  to  dangers  and  vicissi- 
tudes of  every  kind,  all  for  the  paltry,  and  often  uncertain  pit- 
tance of  a  Rocky  Mountain  hunter.  He  says  he  is  now  tired  of 
this  wandering  and  precarious  life,  and  when  he  shall  be  enabled 
to  save  enough  from  his  earnings  to  buy  a  farm  in  Connecticut, 
he  intends  to  settle  down  a  quiet  tiller  ~  **  the  soil,  and  enjoy  the 
sweets  of  domestic  felicity.     But  th  y  will  probably  never 

arrive.  Even  should  he  succeed  in  rea...  .ng  a  little  fortune,  and 
the  farm  should  be  taken,  the  monotony  and  tameness  of  the 
scene  will  weary  his  free  spirit ;   he  will  often  sigh  for  a  habi- 


\M 


ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


41 


talion  on  the  broad  prairie,  or  a  ramble  over  the  dreary  moun- 
tains where  his  lot  has  so  long  been  cast. 

15/A. — We  saw  to-day  several  large  white  wolves,  and  two 
herds  of  antelopes.  The  latter  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
animals  I  ever  saw.  When  full  grown,  it  is  nearly  as  large  as 
a  deer.  The  horns  are  rather  short,  with  a  single  prong  near 
the  top,  and  anabiupt  backward  curve  at  the  summit  like  a  hook. 
The  ears  are  very  delicate,  almost  as  thin  as  paper,  and  hooked 
at  the  tip  like  the  horns.  The  legs  are  remarkably  light  and 
beautifully  formed,  and  as  it  bounds  over  the  plain,  it  seems 
scarcely  to  touch  the  ground,  so  exceedingly  light  and  agile  are 
its  motions.  This  animal  is  the  Antelope  furcifer  of  zoologists, 
and  inhabits  the  western  prairies  of  North  America  exclusively. 
The  ground  here  is  strewn  with  great  quantities  of  buffalo 
bones;  the  skulls  of  many  of  them  in  great  perfection.  I 
often  thought  of  my  friend  Doctor  M.  and  his  golgotha,  while 
we  were  kicking  these  fine  specimens  about  the  ground.  We 
are  now  travelling  along  the  banks  of  the  Blue  river, — a  small 
fork  of  the  Kanzas.  The  grass  is  very  luxuriant  and  good,  and 
we  have  excellent  and  beautiful  camps  every  night. 

This  morning  a  man  was  sent  ahead  to  see  W.  Sublette's 
camp,  and  bear  a  message  to  him,  who  returned  in  the  evening 
with  the  inforniation  that  the  company  is  only  one  day's  journey 
beyond,  and  consists  of  about  thirty-five  men.  We  see  his 
deserted  camps  evc^ry  day,  and,  in  some  cases,  the  fires  are  not 
yet  extinguished.  It  is  sometimes  amusing  to  see  the  wolves 
lurking  like  guilty  things  around  these  camps,  seeking  for  the 
fragments  that  may  be  left ;  as  our  party  approaches,  they  sneak 
away  with  a  mean,  hang-dog  air,  wKich  often  coaxes  a  whistling 
bullet  out  of  the  rifle  of  the  wayfarer. 

6 


43 


NAHRATIVE    OF    A    JOURNEY 


CHAPTER   III. 


Arrival  at  the  Platte  river— Wolves  and  antelopes — Saline  efflorescences — 
Anxiety  of  the  men  to  see  huffalo—Visit  of  tivo  spies  from  the  Grand  Paw- 
nees— Forced  march — A  herd  of  buffalo — Elk — Singular  conduct  of  the 
horses — Killing  a  bttffalo — Indian  mode  of  procuring  buffalo — Great  /lerd — 
Intention  of  the  men  to  desert— Mventure  with  an  Indian  in  the  tent — Cir. 
cumspection  necesscry — Indian  feat  with  bow  and  arroro — JVbtice  of  tlie 
Pawnee  tribes — Disappearance  of  the  buffalo  from  the  plains  of  the  Platte — 
A  hunting  adventure — Killing  a  buffalo^Bulcherttig  qf  a  bull — Sham^ul 
destimction  qf  the  game — Hunters'  mode  of  quenching  thirst. 


On  the  18th  of  May  we  arrived  at  the  Platte  river.  It  is 
from  one  and  a  half  to  two  miles  in  width,  very  shoal ;  large 
sand  flats,  and  small,  verdant  islands  appearing  in  every  part. 
Wolves  and  antelopes  were  in  great  abundance  here,  and  the 
latter  were  frequently  killed  by  our  men.  VVc  saw,  also,  the 
sandhill  crane,  great  heron,  (Ardea  heroidas,)  and  the  long- 
billed  curlew,  stalking  about  through  the  shallow  water,  and 
searching  for  their  aquatic  food. 

The  prairie  is  here  as  level  as  a  race  course,  not  the  slightest 
undulation  appearing  throughout  the  whole  extent  of  vision,  in  a 
north  and  westerly  direction ;  but  to  the  eastward  of  the  river, 
and  about  eight  miles  from  it,  is  seen  a  range  of  high  bluffs  or 
sand  banks,  stretching  away  to  the  south-east  until  they  are  lost 
in  the  far  distance.  ^ 

The  ground  here  is  in  many  places  encrusted  with  an  impure 
salt,  which  by  the  taste  appears  to  be  a  combination  of  the  sul- 
phate and  muriate  of  soda ;  there  are  also  a  number  of  little 
pools,  of  only  a  few  inches  in  depth,  scattered  over  the  plain,  the 
water  of  which  is  so  bitter  and  pungent,  that  it  seems  to  pcne- 


ACnOM  TIIK   nOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


43 


■1 


i 


truto  into  tho  tongue,  and  almost  to  produce  decortication  of  the 
mouth. 

Wo  aro  now  \,'ithin  about  three  days'  journey  of  the  usual 
hauntN  of  tho  buffalo,  and  our  men  (particularly  the  uninitiated) 
look  forward  to  our  arrival  amongst  them  with  considerable 
anxiety,  Thoy  have  listened  to  the  garrulous  hunter's  details 
of  " approuehing"  and  •'  running"  and  " quartering,"  until 
they  fancy  tliuntMclvcH  the  very  actors  in  the  scenes  related,  and 
aro  fretting  find  fuming  with  impatience  to  draw  their  maiden 
triggers  upon  tha  tmoffending  rangers  of  the  plain. 

Tho  nuxt  morning,  we  perceived  two  men  on  horseback,  at 
a  great  distance;  and  upon  looking  at  them  with  our  telescope, 
discoyercd  them  to  be  Indians,  and  that  they  were  approaching 
us.  When  thoy  arrived  within  three  or  four  hundred  yards, 
they  hultcjd,  and  appeared  to  wish  to  communicate  with  us,  but 
feared  to  approach  too  nearly.  Captain  W.  rode  out  alone  and 
joined  them,  whilo  the  party  proceeded  slowly  on  its  way.  In 
about  liduQ.n  niinutCH  he  returned  with  the  information  that  they 
were  of  tho  trll«)  called  Grand  Pawnees.  They  told  him  that 
a  war  party  of  their  people,  consisting  of  fifteen  hundred 
warriors,  was  encamped  obout  thirty  miles  below;  and  the  cap- 
tain ijjfbrrcid  (lint  these  men  had  been  sent  to  watch  our  motions, 
and  aseortain  our  |»l«cc  of  encampment ;  he  was  therefore  coreful 
to  impress  upon  them  that  we  intended  to  go  but  a  few  miles 
further,  and  piteh  our  tents  upon  a  little  stream  near  the  main 
rivitr.  WIkjh  wo  were  satisfied  that  the  messengers  were  out  of 
sight  of  UM,  on  their  return  to  their  camp,  our  whole  caravan  was 
urged  into  a  brisk  trot,  and  we  determined  to  steal  a  march  upon 
our  noighbori!.  Tho  little  stream  was  soon  passed,  and  we  went 
on,  and  on,  without  slackening  our  pace,  until  12  o'clock  at 
night.  Wo  then  called  a  halt  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  made  a 
hasty  mctti,  threw  ourselves  down  in  our  blankets,  without 
pitching  tho  tents,  and  slept  soundly  for  three  hours.     We  were 


44 


NAUKATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


then  nroused,  and  ofT  we  went  again,  travelling  steadily  the 
wholo  day,  making  about  thirty-five  miles,  and  so  got  quite 
clear  of  the  Grand  Pawnees. 

The  antelopes  arc  very  numerous  here.  There  is  not  half  an 
hour  during  the  day  in  which  they  are  not  seen,  and  they  fre- 
quently permit  the  party  to  approach  very  near  them.  This 
afternoon,  two  beautiful  docs  came  bounding  after  us,  bleating 
precisely  like  sheep.  The  men  imitated  the  call,  and  they  came 
up  to  within  fifty  yards  of  us,  and  stood  still;  two  of  the  hunters 
fired,  and  both  the  poor  creatures  fell  dead.  We  can  now  pro- 
cure as  many  of  these  animals  as  we  wish,  but  their  flesh  is  not 
equal  to  common  venison,  and  is  frequently  rejected  by  our 
people.  A  number  are,  however,  slaughtered  every  day,  from 
mere  wantonness  and  love  of  killing,  the  greenhorns  glorying  in 
the  sport,  like  our  striplings  of  the  city,  in  their  annual  murder- 
ing of  robins  and  sparrows. 

20th. — This  afternoon,  we  came  in  sight  of  a  large  gang  of 
the  long-coveted  buffalo.  They  were  grazing  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Platte,  quietly  as  domestic  cattle,  but  as  we  neared 
them,  the  foremost  winded  us,  and  started  back,  and  the  whole  herd 
followed  in  the  wildest  confusion,  and  were  soon  out  of  sight. 
There  must  have  been  many  thousands  of  them.  Towards 
evening,  a  large  band  of  elk  came  towards  us  at  full  gallop,  and 
passed  very  near  the  party.  The  appearance  of  these  animals 
produced  a  singular  effect  upon  our  horses,  all  of  which  became 
restive,  and  about  half  the  loose  ones  broke  away,  and  scoured 
over  the  plain  in  full  chase  after  the  elk.  Captain  W.  and 
several  of  his  men  went  immediately  in  pursuit  of  them,  and 
returned  late  at  night,  bringing  the  greater  number.  Two  have, 
however,  been  lost  irrecoverably.  Our  observed  latitude,  yes- 
terday, was  40°  31',  and  our  computed  distance  from  the  Mis- 
souri settlements,  about  J^OO  miles. 


ACROSS  THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


40 


The  (lay  following,  we  saw  several  small  herds  of  buffalo, 
on  our  side  of  the  river.  Two  of  our  hunters  started  out  afler  a 
huge  bull  that  had  separated  himself  from  his  companions,  and 
gave  him  chase  on  fleet  horses. 

Away  wont  the  buffalo,  and  away  went  the  men,  hard  as  they 
could  dash ;  now  the  hunters  gained  upon  him,  and  pressed  him 
hard  ;  again  the  enormous  creature  had  the  advantage,  plunging 
with  all  his  might,  his  terrific  horns  oflen  ploughing  up  the 
earth  as  he  spurned  it  under  him.  Sometimes  he  would  double, 
and  rush  so  near  the  horses  as  almost  to  gore  them  with  his 
horns,  and  in  an  instant  would  be  off  in  a  tangent,  and  throw 
his  pursuers  from  the  track.  At  length  the  poor  animal  camo  to 
bay,  and  made  some  unequivocal  demonstrations  of  combat ; 
raising  and  tossing  his  head  furiously,  and  tearing  up  the  ground 
with  his  feet.  At  this  moment  a  shot  was  fired.  The  victim 
trembled  like  an  aspen,  and  fell  to  his  knees,  but  recovering 
himself  in  an  instant,  started  again  as  fast  as  before.  Again  the 
determined  hunters  dashed  after  him,  but  the  poor  bull  was 
nearly  exhausted,  he  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  and  stopped 
again.  The  hunters  approached,  rode  slowly  by  him,  and  shot 
two  balls  through  his  body  with  the  most  perfect  coolness  and 
precision.  During  the  race, — the  whole  of  which  occurred  in 
full  view  of  the  party, — the  men  seemed  wild  with  the  excite- 
ment which  it  occasioned ;  and  when  the  animal  fell,  a  shout 
rent  the  air,  which  startled  the  antelopes  by  dozens  from  the 
bluffs,  and  sent  the  wolves  howling  like  demons  from  their 
lairs. 

This  is  the  most  common  mode  of  killing  the  buffalo,  and  is 
practised  very  generally  by  the  travelling  hunters ;  many  arc 
also  destroyed  by  approaching  them  on  foot,  when,  if  the  bushes 
are  sufficiently  dense,  or  the  grass  high  enough  to  afford  con- 
cealment, the  hunter, — by  keeping  carefully  to  leeward  of  his 
game, — may  sometimes  approach  so  near  as  almost  to  touch 


i 


46 


NAHRATIVB  OF   A    JOUHNEY 


the  animal.  If  on  a  plain,  without  grass  or  bushes,  it  is  nnccs- 
sary  to  be  very  circumspect ;  to  approach  so  slowly  as  not  to 
excite  alarm,  and,  when  observed  by  the  animal,  to  imitate 
dexterously,  the  clumsy  motions  of  a  young  bear,  or  assume 
the  sneaking,  prowling  attitude  of  a  wolf,  in  order  to  lull  suspi- 
cion.* 

The  Indians  resort  to  another  stratagem,  which  is,  perhaps, 
even  more  successful.  The  skin  of  a  calf  is  properly  dressed, 
with  the  head  and  legs  left  attached  to  it.  The  Indian  envelopes 
himself  in  this,  and  with  his  short  bow  and  a  brace  of  arrows, 
ambles  off  into  the  very  midst  of  a  herd.  When  he  has  selected 
such  an  animal  as  suits  his  fancy,  he  comes  close  alongside  of  it, 
and  without  noise,  passes  an  arrow  through  its  heart.  One 
arrow  is  always  sufficient,  and  it  is  generally  delivered  with  such 
force,  that  at  least  half  the  shaft  appears  through  the  opposite 
side.  The  creature  totters,  and  is  about  to  fall,  when  the  Indian 
glides  around,  and  draws  the  arrow  from  the  wound  lest  it  should 
be  broken.  A  single  Indian  is  said  to  kill  a  great  number  of 
buffaloes  in  this  way,  before  any  alarm  is  communicated  to  the 
herd. 

Towards  evening,  on  rising  a  hill,  we  were  suddenly  greeted 
by  a  sight  which  seemed  to  astonish  even  the  oldest  amongst  us. 
The  whole  plain,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  discern,  was  covered  by 
one  enormous  mass  of  buffalo.  Our  vision,  at  the  very  least 
computation,  would  certainly  extend  ten  miles,  and  in  the  whole 
of  this  great  space,  including  about  eight  miles  in  width  from 
the  bluffs  to  the  river  bank,  there  was  apparently  no  vista  in  the 
incalculable  multitude.  It  was  truly  a  sight  that  would  have 
excited  even  the  dullest  mind  to  enthusiasm.  Our  party  rode  up 
to  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  edge  of  the  herd,  before  any 
alarm  was  communicated ;  then  the  bulls, — which  are  always 
stationed  around  as  sentinels, — began  pawing  the  ground,  and 

*  1  liavc  suvcral  times  seen  Ricliardsoii  kill  buflulo  in  this  manner. 


ACROSS   TIIR   ROCKV    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


47 


throwing  the  earth  over  their  heads ;  in  a  few  moments  thoy 
started  in  a  slow,  clumsy  canter ;  but  as  wo  ncarcd  them,  they 
quickened  their  pace  to  an  astonishingly  rapid  gallop,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  were  entirely  beyond  the  reach  of  our  guns,  but  were 
still  so  near  that  their  enormous  horns,  and  long  shaggy  beards, 
were  very  distinctly  seen.  Shortly  after  we  encamped,  our 
hunters  brought  in  the  choice  parts  of  five  that  they  had  killed. 

For  the  space  of  several  days  past,  we  have  observed  an 
inclination  in  five  or  six  of  our  men  to  leave  our  service. 
Immediately  as  we  encamp,  we  see  them  draw  together  in  some 
secluded  spot,  and  engage  in  close  and  earnest  conversation. 
This  has  occured  several  times,  and  as  we  are  determined,  if 
possible,  to  keep  our  horses,  &c.,  for  our  own  use,  we  have 
stationed  a  sentry  near  their  tent,  whose  orders  are  peremptory 
to  stop  them  at  any  hazard  in  case  of  an  attempt  on  their  part,  to 
appropriate  our  horses.  The  men  we  are  willing  to  lose,  as 
they  are  of  very  little  service,  and  we  can  do  without  them  ;  but 
horses  here  are  valuable,  and  we  cannot  afford  to  part  with  them 
without  a  sufiicient  compensation. 

22d. — On  walking  into  our  tent  last  night  at  eleven  o'clock, 
after  the  expiration  of  the  first  watch,  (in  which  I  had  served  as 
supernumerary,  to'prevcnt  the  desertion  of  the  men,)  and  stooping 
to  lay  my  gun  in  its  usual  situation  near  the  head  of  my  pallet, 
I  was  startled  by  seeing  a  pair  of  eyes,  wild  and  bright  as  those 
of  a  tiger,  gleaming  from  a  dark  corner  of  the  lodge,  and 
evidently  directed  upon  me.  My  first  impression  was,  that  a 
wolf  had  been  lurking  around  the  camp,  and  had  entered  the 
tent  in  the  prospect  of  finding  meat.  My  gun  was  at  my 
shoulder  instinctively,  my  aim  was  directed  between  the  eyes, 
and  my  finger  pressed  the  trigger.  At  that  moment  a  tall  Indian 
sprang  before  me  with  a  loud  wah  !  seized  the  gun,  and  elevated 
the  muzzle  above  my  head ;  in  another  instant,  a  second  Indian 
was  by  my  side,  and  I  saw  his  keen  knife  glitter  as  it  left  the 


48 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOUIINEV 


scabbard.  I  had  noi  time  for  thouglit,  and  wan  Htriigglirtg  with 
all  my  might  with  the  first  savage  for  the  recovory  of  my  W(m|ioii, 
when  Captain  W.,  andihc  other  inmates  of  the  tout  wuHiUHMmi^, 
and  the  wliole  matter  wati  explained,  and  sot  at  rewt  in  A  rrinirumti 
The  Indians  were  chiefs  of  the  tribe  of  I'awneo  LoupM,  wliu  hnd 
come  with  their  young  men  to  shoot  buffalo :  thuy  hm\  \m'h\  on 
evening  visit  to  the  captain,  and  as  an  act  of  courtiwy  hiid  Ixiun 
invited  to  sleep  in  the  tent.  I  had  not  known  of  Umif  nrrivtil, 
nor  did  I  even  suspect  that  Indians  were  in  our  noi({hl)urli(H)d,  no 
could  not  control  the  alarm  which  their  nuddiin  Uj^peurutico 
occasioned  me. 

As  I  laid  myself  down,  and  drew  my  hlaokot  aroutid  tno, 
Captain  W.  touched  me  lightly  with  his  fingor,  ftiul  |M)illt««l 
significantly  to  his  own  person,  which  I  pcrceiyodf— by  the  flfo 
light  at  the  mouth  of  the  tent, — to  be  garnished  witli  hii  kttife 
and  pistols ;  I  observed  also  that  the  mu/zic  of  hk  rifle  Inid 
across  his  breast,  and  that  the  breech  was  firmly  gra«|»^(l  by  otio 
of  his  legs.  I  took  the  hint ;  tightened  my  belt,  drew  my  glin 
closely  to  my  side,  and  composed  myself  to  sl(3f*p.  Hut  tho 
excitement  of  the  scene  through  which  I  had  jllMt  \mnmiiif 
efTectiially  banished  repose.  I  frequently  dircrittid  my  tiyc« 
towards  the  dark  corner,  and  in  the  midst  of  tho  ishapeltiMiii  tnMU 
which  occupied  it,  I  could  occasionally  see  tho  gjittorillg  orbii  of 
our  guest  shining  amidst  the  surrounding  obscurity.  At  length 
fatigue  conquered  watchfulness,  and  I  sank  to  sloop,  dreamlttg  of 
Indians,  guns,  daggers,  and  buffalo. 

Upon  rising  the  next  morning,  all  had  left  tho  tent  t  the  men 
were  busied  in  cooking  their  morning  meal ;  kottlee  wore  hanging 
upon  the  rude  cranes,  great  ribs  of  meat  were  roasting  before 
the  fires,  and  loading  the  air  with  fragrance,  and  my  (IrenmM  and 
midnight  reveries,  and  apprehensions  of  evil,  fled  upon  the  wingfl 
of  the  bright  morning,  and  nought  remained  but  a  feeling  of 
surprise  that  the  untoward  events  of  the  night  i^hould  have 
disturbed  my  equanimity. 


ACROSS    THE    HOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  KTC. 


49 


While  these  thoughts  were  passing  in  my  mind,  my  c}o 
siidJcnly  encountered  the  two  Indians.  They  were  squatting 
upon  the  ground  near  one  of  the  fires,  and  appeared  to  bo 
surveying,  with  the  keenness  of  morning  appetite,  the  fine  "*Mm/» 
ribs"  which  were  roasting  before  them.  The  moment  they 
perceived  mc,  I  received  from  them  a  quick  glance  of  recognition  : 
the  taller  one, — my  opponent  of  the  previous  night, — rose  to  his 
feet,  walked  towards  me,  and  gave  mo  his  liand  with  great 
cordiality ;  then  pointed  into  the  tent,  made  the  motions  of  raising 
a  gun  to  his  shoulder,  taking  aim,  and  in  short  repeated  the 
entire  pantomime  with  great  fidelity,  and  no  little  liumor,  laughing 
the  whole  time  as  though  he  thought  it  a  capital  joke.  Poor 
follow  I  it  was  near  proving  a  dear  joke  for  him,  and  I  almost 
trembled  as  I  recollected  the  eager  haste  with  which  I  sought  to 
take  the  L^e  of  a  fellow  creature.  The  Indian  evidently  felt  no 
ill  will  towards  me,  and  as  a  proof  of  it,  proposed  an  exchange  of 
knives,  to  which  I  willingly  acceded.  He  deposited  mine, — 
which  had  my  name  engraved  upon  the  handle, — in  the  sheath  at 
his  side,  and  walked  away  to  his  hump  ribs  with  the  air  of  a  man 
who  is  conscious  of  having  done  a  good  action.  As  he  left  me, 
one  of  our  old  trappers  took  occasion  to  say,  that  in  consequence 
of  this  little  act  of  savage  courtesy,  the  Indian  became  my  firm 
friend  ;  and  that  if  I  ever  met  him  again,  I  should  be  entitled  to 
share  his  hospitality,  or  claim  his  protection. 

While  the  men  were  packing  the  horses,  after  breakfast,  I  was 
again  engaged  with  my  Indian  friend.  I  took  his  bow  and  ar- 
rows in  my  hand,  and  remarked  that  the  latter  were  smeared 
with  blood  throughout :  upon  my  expressing  surprise  at  this,  he 
told  me,  by  signs,  that  they  had  passed  through  the  body  of  the 
bufl'alo.  I  assumed  a  look  of  incredulity  ;  the  countenance  of 
the  savage  brightened,  and  his  peculiar  and  strange  eyes  actually 
flashed  with  eagerness,  as  he  pointed  to  a  dead   antelope  lying 

upon  the  ground  about  forty  feet  from  us,  and  which  one  of 

7 


00 


NAItBATIVK   OF   A   JuVHNKY 


tlio  guard  hnd  shot  near  the  camp  in  the  morning.  Tlie  nninml 
lay  upon  its  side  with  the  breast  towards  us  :  the  bow  was  drawn 
slightly,  without  any  apparent  cfTort,  ond  the  arrow  flew  through 
the  body  of  the  antelope,  and  sltimnied  to  a  great  distance  over 
the  plain. 

These  Indians  were  the  finest  looking  of  any  I  had  seen. 
Their  persons  were  tail,  straight,  ond  finely  formed ;  their  noses 
slightly  aqualinc,  and  the  whole  countenance  expressive  of  high 
and  daring  intrepidity.  The  face  of  the  taller  one  was  particu- 
larly admirable;  and  Gall  or  Spurzheim,  at  a  single  glance  at  hi^ 
magnificent  head,  would  have  invested  him  with  all  the  noblest 
qualities  of  the  species.  I  know  not  what  a  physiognomist  would 
have  said  of  his  eyes,  but  they  were  certainly  the  most  wonderful 
eyes  I  ever  looked  into ;  glittering  and  scintillating  constantly, 
like  the  mirror-glasses  in  a  lamp  frame,  and  rolling  and  dancing 
in  their  orbits  as  though  possessed  of  abstract  volition. 

The  tribe  to  which  these  Indians  belong,  is  a  division  of  the 
great  Pawnee  nation.  There  arc  four  of  these  divisions  or  tribes, 
known  by  thr  names  of  Grand  Pawnees,  Pawnee  Loups,  Pawnee 
Republicans,  and  Pawnee  Picts.  They  are  all  independent  of 
each  other,  governed  exclusively  by  chiefs  chosen  from  among 
their  own  people,  and  although  they  have  always  been  on  terms 
of  intimacy  and  friendship,  never  intermarry,  nor  have  other  in- 
tercourse than  that  of  trade,  or  a  conjunction  of  their  forces  to 
attack  the  common  enemy.  In  their  dealings  with  the  whites, 
they  are  arbitrary  and  overbearing,  chaffering  about  the  price  of 
a  horse,  oi  a  beaver  skin,  with  true  huckster-like  eagerness  and 
mendacity,  and  seizing  with  avidity  every  unfair  advantage, 
which  circumstances  or  their  own  craft  may  put  in  their 
power. 

The  buffalo  still  continue  immensely  numerous  in  every  di- 
rection around,  and  our  men  kill  great  numbers,  so  that  wc  are 
in  truth  living  upon  the  fat  of  the  land,  and  better  feeding  need 


ACnnSfl    TIIK    ROCKV    M( -ITNTAINB,  ETC. 


51 


no  man  wIkIi.  The  savory  butFnlo  hcnrto  has  sutTurcd  no  dcprc* 
elation  sinco  the  "  man  without  a  cross"  vaunted  of  its  good 
qualities  to  "  the  stronger ;"  and  in  this,  as  in  many  other  par- 
ticulars, wo  have  realized  the  truth  and  fidelity  of  Cooper's  admi- 
rable descriptions. 

23rf. — When  wo  rose  ti»ia  morning,  not  a  single  buffalo,  of  tho 
many  thousands  that  yesterday  strewed  tho  plain,  was  to  be  seen. 
It  seemed  like  magic.  Where  could  thoy  have  gone?  I  asUe!  'y- 
self  this  question  again  and  again,  but  in  vain.  At  length  I  ap- 
plied to  Richardson,  who  stated  that  they  Iiad  gone  to  tho  bluffs, 
but  for  what  reason  he  coidd  not  tell ;  he,  however,  had  observed 
their  tracks  bearing  towards  the  bluffs,  and  was  certain  that  they 
would  Ix;  found  there.  He  and  Sandsbury  (another  hunter)  were 
tlien  about  stai  !ng  on  a  Iiunt  to  supply  the  camp,  and  I  con- 
cluded to  accompany  them  ;  Mr.  Lee,  tho  missionary,  also  joined 
us,  and  we  all  rode  off  together.  The  party  got  under  way  about 
the  same  time,  and  proceeded  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  while 
we  struck  off  south  to  look  for  tho  buffalo.  About  an  hour's 
brisk  trotting  carried  us  to  the  bluffs,  and  we  entered  amongst 
large  conical  hills  of  yellow  clay,  intermixed  with  strata  of  lime- 
stone, but  without  tho  slightest  vegetation  of  any  kind.  On  the 
plains  which  we  had  Icfl,  the  grass  was  in  great  luxuriance,  but 
here  not  a  blade  of  it  waj  to  be  scon,  and  yot,  as  Richardson  had 
predicted,  here  were  the  buffalo.  We  had  not  ridden  a  mile 
before  wo  entered  upon  a  plain  of  sand  of  great  extent,  and  ob- 
served ahead  vast  clouds  of  dust  rising  and  circling  in  the  air  as 
though  a  tornado  or  a  whirlwind  were  sweeping  over  the  earth. 
"  Ha!"  said  Richardson,  "  there  they  are  ;  now  let  us  take  the 
wind  of  them,  and  you  shall  see  some  sport."  VVc  accordingly 
went  around  to  leeward,  and,  upon  approaching  nearer,  saw  the 
huge  animals  rolling  over  and  over  in  the  sand  with  aston- 
ishing agility,  enveloping  themselves  by  the  exercise  in  a  per- 
fect atmosphere  of  dust ;  occasionally  two  of  the   bulls  would 


52 


NARRATIVE    OF   A   JOURNEY 


spring  from  the  ground  and  attack  each  other  witli  amazing  ail^ 
dress  and  fury,  retreating  for  ten  or  twelve  feet,  ond  then  nwh* 
ing  suddenly  forward,  and  dashing  their  enormous  fronts  together 
witli  a  shock  that  seemed  annihilating.  In  these  rencontres,  ono 
of  the  combatants  was  often  thrown  back  upon  his  haunchcH, 
and  tumbled  sprawling  upon  the  ground ;  in  which  case,  the  vie. 
tor,  with  true  prizc«fighting  generosity,  refrained  from  pcrsocut« 
ing  his  fallen  adversary,  contenting  himself  with  a  liearty  ro» 
sumption  of  his  rolling  fit,  and  kicking  up  the  dust  with  more 
than  his  former  vigor,  as  if  to  celebrate  his  victory. 

This  appeared  to  be  a  good  situation  to  approach  and  kill  tho 
bufTuIo,  as,  by  reason  of  the  plentiful  distribution  of  the  littlo 
clay  hills,  an  opportunity  would  be  afforded  of  successful  conceuU 
ment ;  we  separated,  therefore,  each  taking  his  own  course.  In 
a  very  few  minutes  I  heard  the  crack  of  a  rifle  in  the  direction 
in  which  Richardson  had  gone,  and  immediately  after  saw  tjio 
frightened  animals  flying  from  the  spot.  The  sound  reverberated 
among  the  hills,  and  as  it  died  away  the  herd  halted  to  watch 
and  listen  for  its  repetition.  For  myself,  I  strolled  on  for  nearly 
an  hour,  leading  my  horse,  and  peering  over  every  hill,  in  tho 
hope  of  finding  a  buffalo  within  range,  but  not  one  could  I  seo 
that  was  sufliciently  near ;  and  when  I  attempted  tho  stealthy 
approach  which  I  had  seen  Richardson  practise  with  so  much 
success,  I  felt  compelled  to  acknowledge  my  utter  insufficiency, 
I  had  determined  to  kill  a  buffalo,  and  as  I  had  seen  it  sevorol 
times  done  with  so  much  apparent  ease,  I  considered  it  a  more 
moonshine  matter,  and  thought  I  could  compass  it  without  difficulty; 
but  now  I  had  attempted  it,  and  was  grievously  mistaken  in  my 
estimate  of  the  i\  quiied  skill.  I  had  several  times  heard  tho 
guns  of  the  hunters,  and  felt  satisfied  that  we  should  not  go  to 
camp  without  meat,  and  was  on  the  point  of  altering  my  course 
to  join  them,  when,  as  I  wound  around  tho  base  of  a  littlo  hill,  I 
saw  al)out  twenty  buffalo  lying  quietly  on  tho  ground  within 


ACnOSS   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


68 


thirty  yards  of  mc.  Now  was  my  time.  I  took  my  picket 
from  my  saddle,  and  fastened  my  horse  to  the  ground  as  quietly  as 
possible,  but  with  hands  that  almost  failed  to  do  their  office,  from 
my  excessive  eagerness  and  trembling  anxiety.  When  this  was 
completed,  I  crawled  nround  the  hill  again,  almost  suspending 
my  breath  from  fear  of  alarming  my  intended  victims,  until  I 
cnmc  again  in  full  view  of  the  unsuspecting  herd.  There  were 
so  many  fine  animals  that  I  was  at  a  loss  which  to  select ;  those 
nearest  me  appeared  small  and  poor,  and  I  therefore  settled  my 
aim  upon  a  huge  bull  on  the  outside.  Just  then  I  was  attacked 
with  the  "  bull  fever'''  so  dreadfully,  that  for  several  minutes  I  . 
could  not  shoot.  At  length,  however,  I  became  firm  and  steady, 
and  pulled  my  trigger  at  exactly  the  right  instant.  Up  sprang 
the  herd  like  lightning,  and  away  they  scoured,  and  my  bull 
with  them.  I  was  vexed,  angry,  and  discontented ;  I  concluded 
that  I  could  never  kill  a  buffalo,  and  was  about  to  mount  my 
horse  and  ride  off*  in  despair,  when  I  observed  that  one  of  the 
animals  had  stopped  in  the  midst  of  his  career.  I  rode  towards 
him,  and  sure  enough,  there  was  my  great  bull  trembling  and 
swaying  from  side  to  side,  and  the  clotted  gore  hanging  like 
icicles  from  his  nostrils.  In  a  few  minutes  after,  he  fell  heavily 
upon  his  side,  and  I  dismounted  and  surveyed  the  unwieldy 
brute,  as  he  panted  and  struggled  in  the  death  agony. 

When  the  first  ebullition  of  my  triumph  had  subsided,  I  per- 
ceived that  my  prize  was  so  excessively  lean  as  to  be  worth 
nothing,  and  while  I  was  exerting  my  whole  strength  in  a  vain 
endeavor  to  raise  the  head  from  the  ground  for  the  purpose  of 
removing  the  tongue,  the  two  hunters  joined  me,  and  laughed 
heartily  at  my  achievement.  Like  all  inexperienced  hunters,  I 
had  been  particular  to  select  the  largest  bull  in  the  gang,  sup- 
posing it  to  be  the  best,  (and  it  proved,  as  usual,  the  poorest,) 
while  more  than  a  dozen  fat  cows  were  nearer  mc,  either  of 
which  I  might  have  killed  with  as  little  trouble. 


I; 


84 


NARRATIVE    OF   A    JOURNEY 


As  I  had  supposed,  my  companions  had  killed  several  animals, 
but  they  had  taken  the  meat  of  only  one,  and  we  had,  therefore, 
to  be  diligent,  or  the  camp  might  suffer  for  provisions.  It  was 
now  past  mid-day ;  the  weather  was  very  warm,  and  the  atmos- 
was  charged  with  minute  particles  of  sand,  which  produced  a 
dryness  and  stiffness  of  the  mouth  and  tongue,  that  was  exceed- 
ingly painful  and  distressing.  Water  was  now  the  desideratum, 
but  where  was  it  to  be  found  ?  The  arid  country  in  which  we 
then  were,  produced  none,  and  the  Platte  was  twelve  or  fourteen 
miles  from  us,  and  no  buffalo  in  that  direction,  so  that  we 
could  not  afford  time  for  so  trifling  a  matter.  I  found  that  Mr. 
Lee  was  suffering  as  much  as  myself,  although  he  had  not 
spoken  of  it,  and  i  perceived  that  Richardson  was  masticating 
a  leaden  bullet,  to  excite  the  salivary  glands.  Soon  afterwards, 
a  bull  was  killed,  and  we  all  assembled  around  the  carcass  to 
assist  in  the  manipulations.  The  animal  was  first  raised  from 
his  side  where  he  had  lain,  and  supported  upon  his  knees,  with 
his  hoofs  turned  under  him ;  a  longitudinal  incision  was  then 
made  from  the  nape,  or  anterior  base  of  the  hump,  and  continued 
backward  to  the  loins,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  skin  from  each 
side  removed ;  these  pieces  of  skin  were  placed  upon  the  ground, 
with  the  under  surface  uppermost,  and  the  jleeces,  or  masses  of 
meat,  taken  Irom  along  the  back,  were  laid  upon  them.  These 
fleeces,  from  a  large  animal,  will  weigh,  perhaps,  a  hundred 
pounds  each,  and  comprise  the  whole  of  the  hump  on  each  side 
of  the  vertical  processes,  (commonly  called  the  hump  ribs,) 
which  are  attached  to  the  vertebra.  The  fleeces  are  con- 
sidered tlie  choice  parts  of  the  buffalo,  and  here,  where  the  game 
is  so  abundant,  nothing  else  is  taken,  if  we  except  the  tongue, 
and  an  occasional  marrow  bone. 

This,  it  must  be  confessed,  appears  like  a  useless  anc*  unwar- 
rantable waste  of  tlh3  goods  of  Providence ;  but  when  arc  "cn 
economical,  unless  compelled  to  be  so  by  necessity?     Here  are 


ACKOaS   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC.  55 

more  than  a  thousand  pounds  of  delicious  and  savory  flesh, 
which  would  delight  the  eyes,  and  gladden  the  heart  of  any 
epicure  in  Christendom,  left  neglected  where  it  fell,  to  feed  the 
ravenous  maw  of  the  wild  prairie  wolf,  and  minister  to  the  ex- 
cesses of  the  unclean  birds  of  the  wilderness.  But  I  have  seen 
worse  waste  and  havoc  than  this,  and  I  feel  my  indignation  rise 
at  the  recollection.  I  have  seen  dozens  of  buifalo  slaughtered 
merely  for  the  tongues,  or  for  practice  with  the  rifle ;  and  I  have 
also  lived  to  see  the  very  perpetrators  of  these  deeds,  lean  and 
lank  with  famine,  when  the  meanest  and  most  worthless  parts  of 
the  poor  animals  they  had  so  inhumanly  slaughtered,  would 
Iiavo  ';een  received  and  eaten  with  humble  thankfulness. 

J '  i  I'eturn  to  ourselves.  We  were  all  suffering  from  cx- 
ceiL  L .  J  liiirst,  and  so  intolerable  had  it  at  length  become,  that 
Mr.  Lee  and  myself  proposed  a  gallop  over  to  the  Platte  river,  in 
order  to  appease  it ;  but  Richardson  advised  us  not  to  go,  as  he 
had  just  thought  of  a  means  of  relieving  us,  which  he  imme- 
diately proceeded  to  put  in  practice.  He  tumbled  our  mangled 
buffalo  over  upon  his  side,  and  with  his  knife  opened  the  body, 
so  as  to  expose  to  view  the  great  stomach,  and  still  crawling  and 
twisting  entrails.  The  good  missionary  and  myself  stood  gaping 
with  astonishment,  and  no  little  loathing,  as  we  saw  our  hunter 
plunge  his  knife  into  the  distended  paunch,  from  which  gushed 
the  green  and  gelatinous  juices,  and  then  insinuate  his  tin  pan 
into  the  opening,  and  by  depressing  its  edge,  strain  off*  the  water 
which  was  mingled  with  its  contents. 

Richardson  always  valued  himself  upon  his  politeness,  and  the 
cup  was  therefore  first  offered  to  Mr.  Lee  and  myself,  but  it  is 
almost  needless  to  say  that  we  declined  the  proflxjr,  and  our  fea- 
tures probably  expressed  the  strong  disgust  which  we  felt,  for  our 
companion  laughed  heartily  before  he  applied  the  cup  to  his  own 
mouth.  He  then  drank  it  to  the  dregs,  smacking  his  lips,  and 
drawing  a  long  breath  aflcr  it,  with  the  satisfa.  tion  of  u  man 


06 


NAKRATIVE   OF    A   JOCRNEY 


taking  his  wine  after  dinner.  Sansbury,  the  other  hunter,  was  not 
slow  in  following  the  example  set  before  him,  and  we,  the 
audience,  turned  our  backs  upon  the  actors. 

Before  we  left  the  spot,  however,  Richardson  induced  me  to  taste 
the  blood  which  was  still  fluid  in  the  heart,  and  immediately 
as  it  touched  m.y  lips,  my  burning  thirst,  aggravated  by 
hunger,  (for  I  had  eaten  nothing  that  day,)  got  the  better  of 
my  abhorrence;  I  plunged  my  head  into  the  reeking  ven- 
tricles, and  drank  until  forced  to  stop  for  breath.  I  felt  some- 
what ashamed  of  assimilating  myself  so  nearly  to  the  brutes, 
and  turned  my  ensanguined  countenance  towards  the  mis- 
sionary who  stood  by,  but  I  saw  no  approval  there :  the  good 
man  was  evidently  attempting  to  control  his  risibility,  and 
so  I  smiled  to  put  him  in  countenance ;  the  roar  could  no 
longer  be  restrained,  and  the  missionary  laughed  until  the  tears 
rolled  down  his  checks.  I  did  not  think,  until  afterwards,  of  the 
horrible  ghastliness  which  must  have  characterized  my  smile  at 
that  particular  moment. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  camp  in  the  evening,  and  I  enjoyed 
the  luxury  of  a  hearty  draft  of  water,  the  efltct  upon  my  stomach 
was  that  of  a  powerful  emetic :  the  blood  was  violently  ejected 
without  nausea,  and  I  felt  heartily  glad  to  be  rid  of  the  disgust- 


ing encumbrance. 


I  never  drank  blood  from  that  day. 


AUItOlltf   TUU   BOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  £TC. 


57 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Change  in  (lie  fart  of  the  country— Unpleasant  visitation— its  effects— J^orth 
fork  Mf  llw  Plattt^tfl  day's  jotfrney  over  the  hills — IVoitnwood  bushes,  and 
poor  pa»ture— Marmots— Battlesnake  and  gopher — JifaturalisVs  success 
and  iacr\fii;«»—A  tand  itorm—  Wild  horses— Killing  of  a  doe  antelope— Bluffs 
of  the  Platte— Tht  chimney-*'  Zip  Koon,"  the  youngantelope— Birds— Feel- 
ings and  cogitations  (fa  naturalist— Arrival  at  Laramie's  fork— Departure 
qf  two  "freif  trappers"  on  a  summer  "  hunt" — Black  Hills— Rough  travel- 
ling—Hed  hilteH'-Sweet-ivater  river,  and  Rock  Independence — Avocets — 
Wind  river  moiintalnt— Rocky  Mountain  sheep— Adventure  of  one  of  the  men 
with  a  grlztl;/  hmr— Rattlesnakes — Toilsome  march,  and  arrival  at  Sandy 
river— SUijff II' ing  ^f  the  horses — Anticipated  delights  qf  the  rendesvous. 


On  tho  nwjrning  of  tho  24th  of  May  we  forded  the  Platte  river, 
or  rathor  its  south  fork,  along  which  we  had  been  travelling 
during  tht)  previous  week.  On  the  northern  side,  we  found  the 
country  totftlly  dilforcnt  in  its  aspect.  Instead  of  the  extensive 
und  appiirontly  interminable  green  plains,  the  monotony  of  which 
had  bccomo  so  wearisome  to  the  eye,  here  was  a  great  sandy 
waste,  without  a  single  green  thing  to  vary  and  enliven  tlic 
dreary  scene.  It  was  a  change,  however,  and  we  were  therefore 
enjoying  it,  and  remarking  to  each  other  how  particularly  agreea- 
ble it  was,  when  wo  were  suddenly  assailed  by  vast  swarms  of  most 
ferocious  little  black  gnats ;  the  whole  atmosphere  seemed  crowded 
with  thorn,  and  they  dashed  into  our  faces,  assaulted  our  eyes, 
ears,  nostrils,  and  tnouths,  as  though  they  were  determined  to 
bar  our  passage  through  their  territory.  These  little  creatures 
wcro  so  exceedingly  minute  that,  singly,  they  were  scarcely 

visible ;  und  yet  their  sting  caused  such  excessive  ;  pain,  that  for 

8 


56 


NABKATIVE   OF   A   JOUUXEY 


the  rest  of  the  day  our  men  and  horses  were  rendered  almost  fran- 
tic, the  former  bitterly  imprecating,  and  the  latter  stamping,  and 
kicking,  and  rolling  in  the  sand,  in  tremendous,  yet  vain,  efforts 
to  rid  themselves  of  their  pertinacious  little  foes.  It  was  rather 
amusing  to  see  the  whole  company  with  their  handkerchiefs, 
8l]irts,  and  coats,  thrown  over  their  heads,  stemming  the  animated 
torrent,  and  to  hear  the  greenhorns  cursing  their  tormenters,  the 
country,  and  themselves,  for  their  foolhardincss  in  venturing  on 
the  journey.  When  we  encamped  in  the  evening,  we  built  fires 
at  the  mouths  of  the  tents,  the  smoke  from  which  kept  our  ene- 
mies at  a  distance,  and  we  passed  a  night  of  tolerable  comfort, 
after  a  day  of  most  peculiar  misery. 

The  next  morning  I  observed  that  the  faces  of  all  the  men 
were  more  or  less  swollen,  some  of  them  very  severely,  and  poor 
Captain  W.  was  totally  blind  for  two  days  afterwards. 

25th. — We  made  a  noon  camp  to-day  on  the  north  branch  or 
fork  of  the  river,  and  in  the  afternoon  travelled  along  the  bank 
of  the  stream.  In  about  an  hour's  march,  we  came  to  rocks, 
precipices,  and  cedar  trees,  and  although  we  anticipated  some 
difficulty  and  toil  in  the  passage  of  the  heights,  we  felt  glad  to  ex- 
change them  for  the  vast  and  wearisome  prairies  we  had  left 
behind.  Soon  after  we  commenced  the  ascent,  we  struck  into 
an  Indian  path  very  much  worn,  occasionally  mounting  over 
rugged  masses  of  rock,  and  leaping  wide  fissures  in  the  soil,  and 
sometimes  picking  our  way  over  the  jutting  crags,  directly  above 
the  river.  On  the  top  of  one  of  the  stunted  and  broad  spreading 
cedars,  a  bald  eagle  had  built  its  enormous  nest ;  and  as  we 
descended  the  mountain,  we  saw  the  callow  young  lying  within 
it,  while  the  anxious  parents  hovered  over  our  heads,  screaming 
their  alarm. 

In  the  evening  we  arrived  upon  the  plain  again ;  it  was  thickly 
covered  with  ragged  and  gnarled  bushes  of  a  species  of  worm- 
wood, (Artcjnesia,)  which  perfumed  the  air,  and  at  first  was 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


69 


rather  agreeable.  The  soil  was  poor  and  sandy,  and  the  strag- 
gling blades  of  grass  which  found  their  way  to  the  surface  were 
brown  and  withered.  Here  wci  a  poor  prospect  for  our  horses ; 
a  sad  contrast  indeed  '    tho  and  luxuriant  prairie?  we  had 

left.  On  the  edges  oj  mo  little  o-.  jams,  however,  we  foi  ...>me 
tolerable  pasture,  and  we  frequently  stopped  during  the  day  to 
bait  our  poor  animals  in  these  pleasant  places. 

We  observed  here,  several  species  of  small  marmots,  (^Arcto- 
mys,)  which  burrowed  in  the  sand,  and  were  constantly  skipping 
about  the  ground  in  front  of  our  party.  The  short  rattlesnake  of 
the  prairies  was  also  abundant,  and  no  doubt  derived  its  chief 
subsistence  from  foraging  among  its  playful  little  neighbors. 
Shortly  before  we  halted  this  evening,  being  a  considerable  dis- 
tance in  advance  of  the  caravan,  I  observed  a  dead  gopher,  (Z)t- 
plostoma,) — a  small  animal  about  the  size  of  a  rat,  with  largo  ex- 
ternal cheek  pouches, — lying  upon  the  ground ;  and  near  it  a  full 
grown  rattlesnake,  also  dead.  The  gopher  was  yet  warm  and 
pliant,  and  had  evidently  been  killed  but  a  few  minutes  pre- 
viously ;  the  snake  also  gave  evidence  of  very  recent  death,  by  a 
muscular  twitching  of  the  tail,  which  occurs  in  most  serpents,  soon 
after  life  is  extinct.  It  was  a  matter  of  interest  to  me  to  ascer- 
tain the  mode  by  which  these  animals  were  deprived  of  life.  I 
therefore  dismounted  from  my  horse,  and  examined  them  care- 
fully, but  could  perceive  nothing  to  furnish  even  a  clue.  Neither 
of  them  had  any  external  or  perceptible  wound.  The  snake 
had  doubtless  killed  the  quadruped,  but  what  had  killed  the 
snake?  Their  being  no  wound  upon  its  body  was  sufficient 
proof  that  the  gopher  had  not  used  his  teeth,  and  in  no  other 
way  could  he  cause  death. 

I  was  unable  to  solve  the  problem  to  my  satisfaction,  so  I 
pocketed  the  animal  to  prepare  its  skin,  and  rode  on  to  the 
camp. 

The  birds  thus  far  have  been  very  abundant.     There  is  a  con- 


eo 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNBY 


Hidorable  variety,  and  many  of  tlu  havo  not  before  been  seen 
by  naturalists.  As  to  the  plants,  there  seems  to  bo  no  end  to 
them,  and  Mr.  N.  is  finding  dozens  of  new  species  daily.  In  the 
other  branches  of  science,  our  success  has  not  been  so  great, 
partly  on  account  of  the  rapidity  and  steadiness  with  which  wo 
travel,  but  chiefly  from  the  difliculty,  and  almost  impossibility,  of 
carrying  the  subjects.  Already  we  have  cast  away  all  our  use- 
less and  superfluous  clothing,  and  have  been  content  to  mortify  our 
natural  pride,  to  make  room  for  our  specimens.  Such  things  as 
spare  waistcoats,  shaving  boxes,  soap,  and  stockings,  have  been 
ejected  from  our  trunks,  and  we  are  content  to  dress,  as  we  live,  in  a 
style  of  primitive  simplicity.  In  fact  the  whole  appearance  of  our 
party  is  sufficiently  primitive  ;  many  of  the  men  are  dressed  en- 
tirely in  deer  skins,  without  a  single  article  of  civilized  manufac- 
ture about  them ;  the  old  t;  -ipers  and  hunters  wear  their  hair 
flowing  on  their  shoulders,  u  their  large  grizzled  beards  would 
scarcely  disgrace  a  Bedouin  of  the  desert. 

The  next  morning  the  whole  camp  was  suddenly  aroused  by  the 
falling  of  all  the  tents.  A  tremendous  blast  swept  as  from  a  fun- 
nel over  the  sandy  plain,  and  in  an  instant  precipitated  our  frail 
habitations  like  webs  of  gossamer.  The  men  crawled  out  from 
under  the  ruins,  rubbing  their  eyes,  and,  as  usual,  muttering  im- 
precations against  the  country  and  all  that  therein  was ;  it  was 
unusually  early  for  a  start,  but  we  did  not  choose  to  pitch  the 
tents  again,  and  to  sleep  without  them  here  was  next  to  impossi- 
ble;, so  we  took  our  breakfast  in  the  open  air,  devouring  our  well 
sanded  provision  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  immediately  took 
to  the  road. 

During  the  whole  day  a  most  terrific  gale  was  blowing  directly 
in  our  faces,  clouds  of  sand  were  driving  and  hurtling  by  us, 
often  with  such  violence  as  nearly  to  stop  our  progress ;  and  when 
we  halted  in  the  evening,  we  could  scarcely  recognise  each  other's 
faces  beneath  their  odious  mask  of  dust  and  dirt. 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


61 


There  have  been  no  bufTalo  upon  the  plain  to  day,  all  the 
game  that  we  have  seen,  being  a  few  elk  and  antelopes ;  but  these 
of  course  we  did  not  attempt  to  kill,  as  our  whole  and  undivided 
attention  was  required  to  assist  our  progress. 

28th. — We  fell  in  with  a  new  species  of  game  to  day; — a 
large  band  of  wild  horses.  They  were  very  shy,  scarcely  per- 
mitting us  to  approach  within  rifle  distance,  and  yet  they  kept 
within  sight  of  us  for  some  hours.  Several  of  ua  gave  them 
chase,  in  the  hope  of  at  least  being  i»ble  to  approach  sufficiently 
near  to  examine  them  closely,  but  we  might  as  well  have  pur- 
sued the  wind ;  they  scoured  away  from  us  with  astonishing 
velocity,  their  long  manes  and  tails  standing  out  almost  horizon- 
tally, as  they  sprang  along  before  us.  Occasionally  they  would 
pause  in  their  career,  turn  and  look  at  us  as  we  approached  them, 
and  then,  with  a  neigh  that  rang  loud  and  high  above  the  clatter- 
ing of  the  hoofs,  dart  their  light  heels  into  the  air,  and  fly  from 
us  as  before.  We  soon  abandoned  this  wild  chase,  and  contented 
ourselves  with  admiring  their  sleek  beauty  at  a  distance. 

In  the  afternoon,  I  committed  an  act  of  cruelty  and  wanton- 
ness, which  distressed  and  troubled  me  beyond  measure,  and 
which  I  have  ever  since  recollected  with  sorrow  and  compunc- 
tion. A  beautiful  doe  antelope  came  running  and  bleating  after 
us,  as  though  she  wished  to  overtake  the  party ;  she  continued 
following  us  for  nearly  an  hour,  at  times  approaching  within 
thirty  or  forty  yards,  and  standing  to  gaze  at  us  as  we  moved 
slowly  on  our  way.  I  several  times  raised  my  gun  to  fire  at 
her,  but  my  better  nature  as  often  gained  the  ascendency,  and  I 
at  last  rode  into  the  midst  of  the  party  to  escape  the  temptation. 
Still  the  doe  followed  us,  and  I  finally  fell  into  the  rear,  but 
without  intending  it,  and  again  looked  at  her  as  she  trotted 
behind  us.  At  that  moment,  my  evil  genius  and  love  of  sport 
triumphed ;  I  slid  down  from  my  horse,  aimed  at  the  poor  ante- 
lope, and  shot  a  ball  through  her  side.      Under  other  circum- 


09 


NAnnVTIVB    OP    A    JOUHM'iV 


stances,  there  would  liavo  been  no  ciielty  in  tliis}  but  htifP, 
where  better  meat  was  so  abundant,  and  tho  cmu\>  W(n  mm 
plentifully  supplied,  it  was  unfeeling,  h(MxrtloHs  niurdi)r>  It  WftM 
under  the  influence  of  this  too  late  impression,  that  1  itpprnnislidd 
my  poor  victim.  She  was  writhing  in  agony  upon  tliu  nrtmu\, 
and  exerting  herself  in  vain  efforts  to  draw  her  mun^lnil  Itody 
farther  from  her  destroyer ;  and  as  I  stood  over  lier,  iind  nnw  htir 
cast  her  lorgc,  soft,  black  eyes  upon  mo  with  an  i<xpr«NMi<m  of 
the  most  touching  sadness,  while  the  groat  tears  rollud  uvcf  \wt 
face,  I  felt  myself  the  meanest  and  most  abhorrent  tiling  in  i-rort- 
tion.  But  now  a  finishing  blow  would  bo  mercy  (o  h«r,  ntu\  I 
tlirew  my  arm  around  her  neck,  averted  my  face,  and  drovn  my 
long  knife  through  her  bosom  to  the  heart.  I  did  not  (ruNt 
myself  to  look  upon  lier  afterwards,  but  mounted  my  horw),  (tlld 
galloped  off  to  the  party,  with  feelings  such  as  I  hopn  novitc  io 
experience  again.  For  several  days  the  poor  antelopit  lmuiit<ul 
me,  and  I  shall  never  forget  its  last  look  of  pain  and  iipbrimlillg. 
The  bluffs  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  Pluttn,  urn,  at  tlilM 
point,  exceedingly  rugged,  and  often  quite  picturowjuo  {  th»t  for* 
mation  appears  to  be  simple  clay,  intermixed,  occasiunnlly,  with 
a  stratum  of  limestone,  and  one  part  of  the  bluff  benrx  tt  Dtrikillfj 
and  almost  startling  resemblance  to  a  dilapidated  feudul  I'ttnih, 
There  is  also  a  kind  of  obelisk,  standing  at  a  conaiditmblM  dJM* 
tance  from  the  bluffs,  on  a  wide  plain,  towering  to  tho  lioif^lit  of 
about  two  hundred  feet,  and  tapering  to  a  small  point  at  tiio  top. 
This  pillar  is  known  to  the  hunters  and  truppert*  who  tftt« 
verse  these  regions,  by  the  name  of  the  "  c/ttw/icy,"  H(<re  WO 
diverged  from  the  usual  course,  leaving  the  bank  of  tho  rivof, 
and  entered  a  large  and  deep  ravine  between  tho  oilortilotlM 
bluffs.* 

*  These  arc  called  "  Scott's  niiiffii;"  so  named  from  nn  iinlhrttiiwie  tmli'C,  wlin 
pc!rishcd  here  from  disease  and  hunger,  many  years  ago.  lie  WH«  t|tw<l'tt'tl  hjf 
his  coni|)aiii()ns;  and  the  year  following,  his  crumbling Itoncs  were  ruimil  in  lliis  mmti 


ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


U3 


Tho  rood  was  very  uneven  and  dilTicult,  winding  from 
nmongst  innumerable  mounds  six  to  eight  feet  in  height,  tho 
space  between  them  frequently  so  narrow  as  scarcely  to  admit 
our  horses,  and  some  of  the  men  rode  for  upwards  of  a  mile 
kneeling  upon  their  saddles.  These  mounds  were  of  hard  yel- 
low clay,  without  a  particle  of  rock  of  any  kind,  and  along  their 
bases,  and  in  the  narrow  passages,  flowers  of  every  hue  were 
growing.  It  was  a  most  enchanting  sight ;  even  the  men 
noticed  it,  and  more  than  one  of  our  mnttcr-of.fact  people  ex- 
claimed, becivtiful,  beautiful !  Mr.  N.  was  here  in  his  glory. 
He  rode  on  ahead  of  the  company,  and  cleared  the  passages  with 
a  trembling  and  eager  hand,  looking  anxiously  back  at  tho 
approaching  party,  as  though  he  feared  it  would  come  ere  he 
had  finished,  and  tread  his  lovely  prizes  under  foot. 

The  distance  through  the  ravine  is  about  three  miles.  We 
then  crossed  several  beautiful  grassy  knolls,  and  descending  to 
the  plain,  struck  tnc  Platte  again,  and  travelled  along  its  bank. 
Here  one  of  our  men  caught  a  young  antelope,  which  he  brought 
to  the  camp  upon  his  saddle.  It  was  a  beautiful  and  most  deli- 
cate little  creature,  and  in  a  few  days  became  so  tame  as  to  re- 
main with  the  camp  without  being  tied,  and  to  drink,  from  a  tin 
cup,  the  milk  which  our  good  missionaries  spared  from  their  own 
scanty  meals.  The  men  christened  it  "  Zip  Coon"  and  it  soon 
became  familiar  with  its  name,  running  to  them  when  called,  and 
exhibiting  many  evidences  of  affection  and  attachment.  It  be- 
came a  great  favorite  with  every  one.  A  little  pannier  of  willows 
was  made  for  it,  which  was  packed  on  the  back  of  u  mule,  and 
when  the  camp  moved  in  the  mornings,  little  Zip  ran  to  his 
station  beside  his  long-eared  hack,  bleating  with  impatience  until 
some  one  came  to  assist  him  in  mounting. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  3 1st,  we  came  to  green  trees  and 
bushes  again,  and  the  sight  of  them  was  more  cheering  than  can 


64 


TiARRATIVE   OF   A   JOUBNEY 


bo  conceived,  except  by  persons  who  have  travelled  for  weeks 
without  beholding  n  green  thing,  save  the  gross  under  their  feet. 
Wu  encamped  in  the  evening  in  n  beautiful  grove  of  cottonwood 
trees,  along  tho  edge  of  which  ran  tho  Platte,  dotted  as  usual 
with  numerous  islands. 

In  the  morning,  Mr.  N.  and  myself  were  up  before  the  duwn, 
strolling  through  the  umhragnous  forest,  inhaling  tho  fresh, 
bracing  air,  and  making  tho  echoes  ring  with  tho  report  of  our 
gun,  as  the  lovely  tenants  of  tho  grove  flew  by  dozens  before  us. 
I  think  I  never  iKiforc  saw  so  great  a  variety  of  birds  within  tho 
same  space.  All  were  beautiful,  and  many  of  them  quite  new  to 
me ;  and  after  wc  had  spent  an  hour  amongst  them,  and  my 
gamo  bag  was  teeming  with  its  precious  freight,  I  was  still  loath 
to  leave  the  place,  lest  I  should  not  have  procured  specimens  of 
the  whole. 

None  but  a  naturalist  can  appreciate  a  naturalist's  feelings— 
his  delight  amounting  to  ecstacy — when  a  specimen  such  as  ho 
has  never  before  seen,  meets  his  eye,  and  the  sorrow  and  grief 
which  he  feels  when  he  is  compelled  to  tear  himself  from  a  spot 
abounding  with  all  that  ho  has  anxiously  and  unremittingly 
sought  for. 

This  was  peculiarly  my  case  upon  this  occasion.  Wo  had 
been  long  travelling  over  a  sterile  and  barren  tract,  where  tho 
lovely  denizens  of  the  forest  could  not  exist,  and  I  had  been  daily 
scanning  the  great  extent  of  the  desert,  for  some  little  oasts  such 
as  I  had  now  found ;  here  was  my  wish  at  length  gratified,  and 
yet  the  caravan  would  not  halt  for  me ;  I  must  turn  my  back 
upon  the  El  Dorado  of  my  fond  anticipations,  and  hurry  forward 
over  the  dreary  wilderness  which  lay  beyond. 

What  valuable  and  highly  interesting  accessions  to  science 
might  not  be  made  by  a  party,  composed  exclusively  of  natural- 
ists, on  a  journey  through  this  rich  and  unexplored  region !  The 
botanist,  the  geologist,  the  mamalogist,  the  ornithologist,  and 


ACKOIR  TUB   noOKV   MOITNTAINB,  KTC.  M 

tho  entomologist,  would  find  a  rich  and  almost  incxImuHtiblo 
field  fur  the  prosecution  of  their  inquiries,  and  the  result  of  such 
nn  expedition  would  be  to  mid  most  materially  to  our  knowledge 
of  the  wealth  and  resources  of  our  country,  to  furnish  us  with 
now  and  important  facts  relative  to  its  structure,  organization, 
and  natural  productions,  and  to  complete  tlic  fine  native  collec- 
tions in  our  already  extensive  museums. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  we  arrived  at  Laramie's  fork  <  "  tho 
Platte,  and  crossed  it  without  much  difficulty. 

Here  two  of  our  "  free  trappers"  left  us  for  a  summer  "  liunt" 
in  the  rugged  Black  Hills.  These  men  joined  our  purty  at  hrle* 
dependence,  and  have  been  travelling  to  this  point  with  us  for 
the  benefit  of  our  escort.  Trading  companies  usually  encourage 
those  free  trappers  to  join  them,  both  for  the  strength  which  they 
add  to  the  band,  ond  that  they  may  have  the  benefit  of  their 
generally  good  hunting  qualities.  Thus  are  both  parties  occom- 
modated,  and  no  obligation  is  felt  on  cither  side. 

1  confess  I  felt  somewhat  sad  when  I  reflected  upon  the  pos- 
sible  fate  of  the  two  adventurous  men  who  had  left  us  in  the 
midst  of  a  savage  wilderness,  to  depend  entirely  upon  thoir 
unassisted  strength  and  hardihood,  to  procure  the  means  of  sub- 
sistence and  repel  the  aggression  of  the  Indian. 

Their  expedition  will  be  fraught  with  stirring  scenes,  with 
peril  and  with  strange  adventure ;  but  they  think  not  of  this, 
and  they  care  not  for  it.  They  are  only  two  of  the  m''f.y  -cores 
who  annually  subject  themselves  to  the  same  difficulties  and 
dangers ;  they  see  their  friends  return  unscathed,  and  laden 
with  rich  and  valuable  furs,  and  if  one  or  two  should  have 
perished  by  Indian  rapacity,  or  fallen  victin^  ',o  their  own  daring 
ond  fool-hardy  spirit,  they  mourn  the  loss  of  their  brethren  who 
have  not  returned,  and  are  only  tiro  more  anxious  to  pursue  the 
same  track  in  order  to  avenge  them. 

On  the  2d,  we  struck  a  range  of  high  and  stony  mountains, 

0 


66 


NARRATIVE    OP    A    JOURNEY 


called  the  Black  Hills.  The  general  aspect  hero,  was  dreary 
and  forbidding ;  the  soil  was  intersected  by  deep  and  craggy 
fissures;  rock  jutted  over  rock,  and  precipice  frowned  over 
precipice  in  frightful,  and  apparently  endless,  succession.  Soon 
after  we  commenced  the  ascent,  wc  experienced  a  change  in  th« 
temperature  of  the  air;  and  towards  mid-day,  when  we  had 
arrived  near  the  summit,  our  large  blanket  capeaus, — which  in  tho 
morning  had  been  discarded  as  uncomfortable, — were  drawn 
tightly  aroimd  us,  and  every  man  was  shivering  in  his  tiaddlo  m 
though  he  had  an  ague  fit.  The  soil  here  is  of  a  deep  reddish  or 
ferruginous  hue,  intermixed  with  green  sand;  and  on  the  heights, 
pebbles  of  chalcedony  and  agate  are  abundant. 

We  crossed,  in  the  afternoon,  the  last  and  steepest  spur  of  thii 
chain,  winding  around  rough  and  stony  precipices,  and  along 
the  extreme  verges  of  tremendous  ravines,  so  dangerous  looking 
that  we  were  compelled  to  dismount  and  lead  our  horses. 

On  descending  to  the  plain,  we  saw  again  the  north  fork  of 
the  Platte,  and  were  glad  of  an  opportunity  of  encamping,  Our 
march  to-day  has  been  an  unusually  wearisome  one,  and  many 
of  our  loose  horses  are  bruised  and  lame. 

7th. — The  country  has  now  become  more  level,  but  the  prairie 
is  barren  and  inhospitable  looking  to  the  last  degree.  Tho 
twisted,  aromatic  wormwood  covers  and  extracts  the  strength 
from  the  burnt  and  arid  soil.  The  grass  is  dry  and  brown,  and 
our  horses  are  suffering  extremely  for  want  of  food.  Occasion* 
ally,  however,  a  spot  of  lovely  green  appears,  and  here  we  allow 
our  poor  jaded  friends  to  halt,  and  roam  without  their  riders,  and 
their  satisfaction  and  pleasure  is  expressed  by  many  a  joyous 
neigh,  and  many  a  heart-felt  roll  upon  the  verdant  sward. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  at  the  "  Red  Butes,"  two  or  threw 
brown-red  cliffs,  about  two  thousand  feet  in  height.  This  is  n, 
remarkable  point  in  the  mountain  route.  One  of  these  cliffs 
terminates  a  long,  lofty,  wooded  ridge,  which  has  bounded  our 


i 


ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


67 


southern  view  for  the  past  two  days.  The  summits  of  the  cliffs 
arc  covered  with  patches  of  snow,  and  the  contrast  of  the 
dazzling  white  and  brick-red  produces  a  very  pretty  effect. 

The  next  day,  we  left  the  Platte  river,  and  crossed  a  wide, 
sandy  desert,  dry  and  desolate;  and  on  the  9th,  encamped  at 
noon  on  the  banks  of  the  Sweet-water.  Here  we  found  a  large 
rounded  mass  of  granite,  about  fifty  feet  high,  called  Rock  Inde- 
pendence. Like  the  Red  Butes,  this  rock  is  also  a  rather  re- 
markable point  in  the  route.  On  its  smooth,  perpendicular  sides, 
M'e  see  carved  the  names  of  most  of  the  mountain  bourgeois, 
with  the  dates  of  their  arrival.  We  observed  those  of  the  two 
Sublette's,  Captains  Bonneville,  Serre,  Fontinelle,  «fec.,  and  after 
leaving  our  own,  and  taking  a  hearty,  but  hasty  lunch  in  the 
shade  of  the  rock,  and  a  draught  from  the  pure  and  limpid 
stream  at  its  base,  we  pursued  our  journey. 

The  river  is  here  very  narrow,  often  only  twelve  or  fifteen 
feet  wide,  shallow,  and  winding  so  much,  that  during  our  march, 
to-day,  we  crossed  it  several  times,  in  order  to  pursue  a  straight 
course.  The  banks  of  the  stream  are  clothed  with  the  most 
luxuriant  pasture,  and  our  invaluable  dumb  friends  appear  per- 
fectly happy. 

We  saw  here  great  numbers  of  a  beautiful  brown  and  white 
avocet,  (the  Recurvirostra  americana  of  ornithologists.)  These 
fine  birds  were  so  tame  as  to  allow  a  very  near  approach,  run- 
ning slowly  before  our  party,  and  scarcely  taking  wing  at  the 
report  of  a  gun.  They  frequent  the  marshy  plains  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  river,  and  breed  here. 

On  the  10th,  about  ninety  miles  to  the  west,  we  had  a  striking 
view  of  the  Wind-river  mountains.  They  are  almost  wholly  of 
a  dazzling  whiteness,  being  covered  thickly  with  snow,  and 
the  lofty  peaks  seem  to  blend  themselves  with  the  dark  clouds 
which  hang  over  them.  This  chain  gives  rise  to  the  sources  of 
the  Missouri,  the  Colorado  of  the  west,  and  Lewis'  river  of  the 


NARRATIVE   OF   A    JOVRNGV 


:!  I 


Columbia,  and  is  the  highest  land  on  the  continent  of  North 
America. 

We  saw,  to-day,  a  small  flock  of  the  hairy  sheep  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  the  big  horn  of  the  hunters,  (Otis  montana.) 
We  exerted  ourselves  in  vain  to  shoot  them.  They  darted  from 
us,  and  hid  themselves  amongst  the  inaccessible  cliffs,  so  that 
none  but  a  chamois  hunter  might  pretend  to  reach  them. 
Richardson  says  that  he  has  frequently  killed  them,  but  he 
admits  that  it  is  dangerous  and  wearisome  sport ;  and  when  good 
beef  is  to  be  found  upon  the  plains,  men  are  not  anxious  to  risk 
their  necks  for  a  meal  of  mutton. 

In  the  afternoon,  one  of  our  men  had  a  somewhat  perilous 
adventure  with  a  grizzly  bear.  He  saw  the  animal  crouching 
his  huge  frame  in  some  willows  which  skirted  the  river,  and 
approaching  on  horseback  to  within  twenty  yards,  fired  ujwn 
him.  The  bear  was  only  slightly  wounded  by  the  shot,  and  with 
a  fierce  growl  of  angry  malignity,  rushed  from  his  cover,  and 
gave  chase.  The  horse  happened  to  be  a  slow  one,  and  for  the 
distance  of  a  half  a  mile,  the  race  was  hard  contested ;  the  bear 
frequently  approaching  so  near  the  terrified  animal  as  to  snap  at 
his  heels,  while  the  equally  terrified  rider, — who  had  lost  his  hat 
at  the  start, — used  whip  and  spur  with  the  most  frantic  diligence, 
frequently  looking  behind,  from  an  influence  which  he  could  not 
resist,  at  his  rugged  and  determined  foe,  and  shrieking  in  an 
agony  of  fear,  "  shoot  him,  shoot  him  ?"  The  man,  who  was 
one  of  the  greenhorns,  happened  to  be  about  a  mile  behind  the 
main  body,  either  from  the  indolence  of  his  horse,  or  his  own 
carelessness;  but  as  he  approached  the  party  in  his  desperate 
flight,  and  his  lugubrious  cries  reached  the  ears  of  the  men  in 
front,  about  a  dozen  of  them  rode  to  his  assistance,  and  soon 
succeeded  in  diverting  the  attention  of  his  pertinacious  foe.  After 
he  had  received  the  contents  of  all  the  guns,  he  fell,  and  was  soon 
dispatched.      The  man  rode  in  among  his   fellows,  pale  and 


ACROSS  THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


60 


haggard  from  overwrought  feelings,  and  was  probably  efTcctually 
cured  of  a  propensity  for  meddling  with  grizzly  bears. 

A  small  striped  rattlesnake  is  abundant  on  those  plains : — it  is 
a  different  species  from  our  common  one  at  home,  but  is  equally 
malignant  and  venomous.  The  horses  are  often  startled  by  them, 
and  dart  aside  with  intuitive  fear  when  their  note  of  warning  is 
sounded  in  the  path. 

12th. — The  plains  of  the  Sweet-water  at  this  point, — latitude 
43°  6',  longitude  110°  30', — are  covered  with  little  salt  pools, 
the  edges  of  which  are  encrusted  with  alkaline  efflorescences,  look- 
ing like  borders  of  snow.  The  rocks  in  the  vicinity  are  a  loose, 
fme-graincd  sandstone,  the  strata  nearly  horizontal,  and  no 
organic  remains  have  been  discovered.  We  have  still  a  view  of 
the  lofty  Wind-river  mountains  on  our  right  hand,  and  they 
have  for  some  days  served  as  a  guide  to  determine  our  course. 
On  the  plain,  we  passed  several  huge  rhomboidal  masses  of  rock, 
standing  alone,  and  looking,  at  a  little  distance,  like  houses  with 
chimneys.  The  freaks  of  nature,  as  they  are  called,  have  often 
astonished  us  since  we  have  been  journeying  in  the  wilderness. 
We  have  seen,  meddled  without  art,  rcpcesentations  of  almost 
all  the  most  stupendous  works  of  man  ;  and  how  do  the  loftiest 
and  most  perfect  creations  of  his  wisdom  and  ingenuity  sink  into 
insigniiicancc  by  the  comparison.  Noble  castles,  with  turrets, 
cmbrazurcs,  and  loop  holes,  with  the  drawbridge  in  front,  and  the 
moat  surrounding  it :  behind,  the  humble  cottages  of  the  subser- 
vient peasantry,  and  all  the  varied  concomitants  of  such  a  scene, 
are  so  strikingly  evident  to  the  view,  that  it  requires  but  little 
stretch  of  fancy  to  imagine  that  a  race  of  antediluvian  giants  may 
here  have  swayed  their  iron  sceptre,  and  left  behind  the 
crumbling  palace  and  the  tower,  to  tell  of  their  departed  glory. 

On  the  14th,  we  left  the  Sweet- water,  and  proceeded  in  a 
south-westerly  direction  to  Sandy  river,  a  branch  of  the  Colorado 
of  the  west.     We  arrived  here  at  about  9  o'clock  in  the  evening, 


70 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


aflcr  a  hard  and  most  toilsome  march  for  both  man  and  beast. 
We  found  no  water  on  the  route,  and  not  a  single  blade  of  grass 
for  our  horses.  Many  of  the  poor  animals  stopped  before  night, 
and  resolutely  refused  to  proceed ;  and  others  with  the  remarkable 
sagacity,  peculiar  to  them,  left  the  track  in  defiance  of  those  who 
drove  and  guided  them,  sought  and  found  water,  and  spent  the 
night  in  its  vicinity.  The  band  of  missionaries,  with  their  horses 
and  horned  cattle,  halted  by  the  way,  and  only  about  half  the 
men  of  the  party  accompanied  us  to  our  encampment  on  Sandy. 
We  were  thus  scattered  along  the  route  for  several  miles ;  and 
if  a  predatory  band  of  Indians  had  then  found  us,  we  should  have 
fallen  an  easy  prey. 

The  next  morning  by  about  10  o'clock  all  our  men  and  horses 
had  joined  us,  and,  in  spite  of  the  fatigues  of  the  previous  day, 
wc  were  all  tolerably  refreshed,  and  in  good  spirits.  Towards 
noon  we  got  under  way,  and  proceeded  seven  or  eight  miles 
down  the  river  to  a  spot  where  wc  found  a  little  poor  pasture  for 
our  horses.  Here  we  remained  until  the  next  morning,  to  recruit. 
I  found  here  a  beautiful  new  species  of  mocking  bird,*  which  I 
shot  and  prepared.  Birds  are,  however,  generally  scarce,  and 
there  is  hero  very  little  of  interest  in  any  department  of  natural 
history.  We  are  also  beginning  to  suffer  somewhat  for  food : 
buffalo  arc  rarely  seen,  the  antelopes  are  unusually  shy,  and  the 
life  of  our  little  favorite,  "Zip,"  has  been  several  times  menaced. 
I  believe,  however,  that  his  keeper,  from  sheer  fondness,  would 
witness  much  greater  suffering  in  the  camp,  ere  he  would  con- 
sent to  the  sacrifice  of  his  playful  little  friend. 

16/A. — Wc  observed  a  hoar  frost  and  some  thin  ice,  this 
morning  at  sunrise ;  but  at  mid-day,  the  thermometer  stood  at 
82°.  We  halted  at  noon,  after  making  about  fifteen  miles,  and 
dined.     Saw  large  herds  of  buffalo  on  the  plains  of  Sandy  river, 


*This  is  tlio  mountain  mocking  bird,  {Orpheus  moiitanua,)  described  in  tlie 
A|)[H.-ndix. 


\'U 


ACUONM  Tlltl   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


71 


grazing  in  ovcry  ilircction  on  the  short  and  dry  grass.  Domes- 
tic cattio  would  certainly  starve  here,  and  yet  the  bison  exists, 
and  oven  Ixiconics  fut ;  a  striking  instance  of  the  wonderful 
adaptation  of  I'fovidoncc. 

nth. — Wo  had  yesterday  u  cold  rain,  the  first  which  has 
fallen  in  our  track  for  several  weeks.  Our  vicinity  to  the  high 
mountalnn  of  Wind  river  will  perhaps  account  for  it.  To-day  at 
noon,  tlio  mercury  Htood  at  92°  in  the  shade,  but  there  being  .a 
strong  bri!<!/-o,  wo  did  not  suffer  from  heat. 

Our  «our«)  was  still  down  the  Sandy  river,  and  we  are  now 
lookirtg  forward  wifii  no  iittle  pleasure  to  a  rest  of  two  or  more 
wcektt  at  tlio  mountain  rendezvous  on  the  Colorado.  Here  we 
expect  to  njt'ct  all  the  mountain  companies  who  left  the  States 
last  spring,  ond  also  the  trappers  who  come  in  from  various 
parts,  witli  tho  furs  collected  by  them  during  the  previous  year. 
All  Will  bo  mirth  and  jollity,  no  doubt,  but  the  grand  deside- 
ratum with  some  of  us,  is  to  allow  our  horses  to  rest  their  tired 
limbs  and  exhausted  strength  on  the  rich  and  verdant  plains  of 
the  Siskod(!(!,  At  our  camp  this  evening,  our  poor  horses  were 
comiMjllod  fo  fast  as  heretofore,  there  being  absolutely  nothing  for 
them  to  oat.  8omo  of  the  famished  animals  attempted  to  allay 
their  innutiftblo  cravings,  by  cropping  the  dry  and  bitter  tops  of 
tho  wormwood  with  which  the  plain  is  strewed. 

Wo  look  forward  to  brighter  days  for  them  ere  long ;  soon 
shall  thoy  wport  in  the  green  pastures,  c  nd  rest  and  plenty  shall 
componsato  for  their  toils  and  privation.). 


n 


MARUATIVE   OF   A    JOURNEV 


CHAPTER   V. 


Arrival  at  the  Colorado — The  author  in  difficulty — Lois  of  a  journal,  and 
advice  to  travelling  tyros—  The  rendezvous— Motley  eroups  infesting  it — 
Rum.  drinking',  sivearinff,  and  other  accomplishments  in  vogue—Description 
of  the  camp — Trout  and  grayling — Abundance  of  game —  Cock  of  the  plains — 
Departure  from  the  rendezvous — Jin  accession  to  the  hand — A  renegado 
lilackfoot  chief — Captain  Stewart  and  Mr.  Jlshworth — Muddy  creek — 
More  carousing — Abumlance  of  trout — Jiear  river — A  hard  day's  march — 
Volcanic  country— ll'hile  clay  pits  and  ''Beer  spring" — Rare  birds  and  com- 
mon birds — Mr.  Thomas  McKay — Rough  and  arid  country — Meeting  -with 
Captain  Bonneville's  party — Captains  Stewart  and  U'yeth's  visit  to  the 
lodge  of  the  "bald  chief" — Blackfoot  river — Adventure  with  a  grizzly 
bear — Death  of  "  Zip  Koon" — Young  grizzly  hears  and  buffalo  calves — A 
Blackfoot  Indian — Dangerous  experiment  of  McKay — the  three  "  Tetons" — 
jMrge  trout — Departare  of  our  Indian  companions — Shoshotie  river — Site  of 
"  Fort  Hall" — Preparations  for  a  buffalo  hunt. 


June  19th. — We  arrived  to-day  on  the  Green  river,  Siskadec, 
or  Colorado  of  the  west, — a  beautiful,  clear,  deep,  and  rapid 
stream,  which  receives  the  waters  of  Sandy, — and  encamped 
upon  its  eastern  bank.  After  making  a  hasty  meal,  as  it  was 
yet  early  in  the  day,  I  sallied  forth  with  my  gun,  and  roamed 
about  the  neighborhood  for  several  hours  in  quest  of  birds.  On 
returning,  towards  evening,  I  found  that  the  whole  company  had 
left  the  spot,  the  place  being  occupied  only  by  a  few  hungry 
wolves,  ravens,  and  magpies,  the  invariable  gleaners  of  a  for- 
saken camp. 

I  could  not  at  first  understand  the  meaning  of  all  I  saw.  I 
thought  the  desertion  strange,  and  was  preparing  to  make  the 
best  of  it,  when  a  quick  and  joyful  neigh  sounded  in  the  bushes 
near  mc,  and  I  recognized  the  voice  of  my  favorite  horse.     I 


ACROSS    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


T8 


found  him  carefully  tied,  with  tlie  saddle,  &c.,  lying  near  him. 
I  had  not  the  least  idea  of  where  the  company  had  gone,  hut  I 
knew  that  on  the  rich,  alluvial  banks  of  the  river,  the  trail  of  the 
horses  would  bo  distinct  enough,  and  I  determined  to  place  my 
dependence,  in  a  great  measure,  upon  the  sagacity  of  my  excel- 
lent dumb  friend,  satisfied  that  he  would  take  me  the  right 
course.  I  accordingly  mounted,  and  off  we  went  at  u  speed 
which  I  found  some  difficulty  in  restraining.  About  half  an 
hour's  hard  riding  brouaht  us  to  the  educ  of  a  larye  branch  of 
the  stream,  and  I  observed  that  the  horses  luid  here  entered.  I 
noticed  other  tracks  lower  down,  but  supposed  them  to  have 
been  made  by  the  wanderings  of  the  loose  animals.  Here  then 
seemed  the  proper  fording  place,  and  with  some  little  hesitation, 
I  allowed  my  nag  to  enter  the  water ;  we  had  proceeded  but  a 
few  yards,  however,  when  down  he  went  off  a  steep  bank,  far 
beyond  his  depth.  This  was  somewhat  disconcerting;  but  there 
was  but  one  thing  to  be  done,  so  I  turned  my  horse's  head  against 
the  swift  current,  and  we  went  snorting  and  blowing  for  the 
opposite  shore.  We  arrived  at  length,  though  in  a  sadly  wet 
and  damaged  state,  and  in  a  few  minutes  after,  came  in  view  of 
the  new  camp. 

Captain  W.  explained  to  me  that  he  had  heard  of  good  pasture 
here,  and  had  concluded  to  move  immediately,  on  account  of  the 
horses ;  he  informed  me,  also,  that  he  had  crossed  the  stream 
about  fifty  yards  below  the  point  where  I  had  entered,  and  had 
found  an  excellent  ford.  I  did  not  regret  my  adventure,  how- 
ever, and  was  congratulating  myself  upon  my  good  fortune  in 
arriving  so  seasonably,  when,  upon  looking  to  my  saddle,  I  dis- 
covered that  my  coat  was  missing.  I  had  felt  uncomfortably 
warm  when  I  mounted,  and  had  removed  the  coat  and  attached  it 
carelessly  to  the  saddle  ;  the  rapidity  of  the  current  had  diseng- 
aged it,  and  it  was  lost  for  ever.     The  coat  itself  was  not  of  much 

consequence  after  the  hard  service  it  had  seen,  but  it  contained  the 

10 


T4 


NARRATIVE   OF   A    JOURNEY 


second  volume  of  my  journal,  a  pocket  compass,  and  other  arti- 
cles of  essential  value  to  mo.  I  would  gladly  have  relinquished 
every  thing  the  garment,  held,  if  I  could  but  have  recovered  the 
book ;  and  although  I  returned  to  the  river,  and  searched 
assiduously  until  night,  and  offered  large  rewards  to  the  men,  it 
could  not  be  found. 

The  journal  commenced  with  our  arrival  at  the  Black  Hills, 
and  contained  some  observations  upon  the  natural  productions  of 
the  country,  which  to  me,  at  least,  were  of  some  importance; 
as  well  as  descriptions  of  several  now  species  of  birds,  and 
notes  regarding  their  habits,  &c.,  which  cannot  be  replaced. 

I  would  advise  all  tourists,  who  journey  by  land,  never  to 
carry  their  itineraries  upon  their  persons;  or  if  they  do,  let  them 
be  attached  by  a  cord  to  the  neck,  and  worn  under  the  clothing. 
A  convenient  and  safe  plan  would  probably  be,  to  have  the  book 
deposited  in  a  close  pocket  of  leather,  made  on  the  inner  side  of 
the  saddle-wing ;  it  would  thus  be  always  at  hand,  and  if  a  deep 
stream  were  to  be  passed,  the  trouble  of  drying  the  leaves  would 
not  be  a  very  serious  matter. 

In  consequence  of  remaining  several  hours  in  wet  clothes, 
after  being  heated  by  exercise,  I  rose  the  next  morning  with  so 
much  pain,  and  stiffness  of  the  joints,  that  I  could  scarcely  move. 
But  notwithstanding  this,  I  was  compelled  to  mount  my  horse 
with  the  others,  and  to  ride  steadily  and  rapidly  for  eight  hours. 
I  suffered  intensely  during  this  ride;  every  step  of  my  horse 
seemed  to  increase  it,  and  induced  constant  sickness  and  retch- 
ing. 

When  we  halted,  I  was  so  completely  exhausted,  as  to  require 
assistance  in  dismounting,  and  shortly  after,  sank  into  a  state  of 
insensibility  from  which  I  did  not  recover  for  several  hours  ^ 
Then  a  violent  fever  commenced,  alternating  for  two  whole  days, 
with  sickness  and  pain.     I  think  I  never  was  more  unwell  in  my 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


U 


life ;  and  if  I  hud  been  at  home,  lying  on  a  feather  bed  instead  of 
the  cold  ground,  I  should  probably  have  fancied  myself  an  inva- 
lid for  weeks.* 

22d — We  are  now  lying  at  the  rendezvous.  W.  Sublette, 
Captains  Scrre,  Fitzpatrick,  and  other  leaders,  with  their  com- 
panies, are  encamped  about  a  mile  from  us,  on  the  same  plain, 
and  our  own  camp  is  crowded  with  a  heterogeneous  assemblage 
of  visitors.  The  principal  of  these  arc  Indians,  of  the  Nez 
Perce,  Banneck  and  Shoshone  tribes,  who  come  with  the  furs 
and  peltries  which  they  have  been  collecting  at  the  risk  of  their 
lives  during  the  past  winter  and  spring,  to  trade  for  ammunition, 
trinkets,  and  *'  fire  water."  There  is,  in  addition  to  these,  a 
great  variety  of  personages  amongst  us;  most  of  them  calling 
themselves  white  men,  French-Canadians,  half-breeds,  &c., 
their  color  nearly  as  dark,  and  their  manners  wholly  as  wild,  as 
the  Indians  with  whom  they  constantly  associate.  These  peo- 
ple, with  their  obstreperous  mirth,  their  whooping,  and  howling, 
and  quarrelling,  added  to  the  mounted  Indians,  who  are  con- 
stantly dashing  into  and  through  our  camp,  yelling  like  fiends, 
the  barking  and  baying  of  savage  wolf-dogs,  and  the  incessant 
cracking  of  rifles  and  carbines,  render  our  camp  a  perfect  bed- 
lam. A  more  unpleasant  situation  for  an  invalid  could  scarcely 
be  conceived.  I  am  confined  closely  to  the  tent  with  illness,  and 
and  am  compelled  all  day  to  listen  to  the  hiccoughing  jargon  of 
drunken  traders,  the  sacre  and  f outre  of  Frenchmen  run  wild, 
and  the  swearing  and  screaming  of  our  own  men,  who  are 
scarcely  less  savage  than  the  rest,  being  heated  by  the  detestable 
liquor  which  circulates  freely  among  them. 

It  if  very  much  to  be  regretted  that  at  times  like  the  present, 
there  should  be  a  positive  necessity  to  allow  the  men  as  much 
rum  as  they  can  drink,  but  this  course  has  been  sanctioned  and 

•  I  am  indubtcd  to  llio  kindness  of  my  comiwninn  and  friend,  I'mfessor  Nuttall, 
for  siipplying,  in  »  ;;i-eat  measucu,  the  deficiency  occasioned  l)y  the  loss  of  my 
journal. 


■ 

i  ■ 

i 


TO 


NAUHATIVE    OP    A    JOI'UNKV 


practised  by  all  leaders  of  parties  who  have  hilhitrlo  viNilcd  (licwt 
rogioDu,  and  rcfurm  caniiut  be  thought  of  now,  Tlio  |iriM('ipi)| 
liquor  in  use  here  is  alcohol  diluted  with  water.  It  In  noIiI  ImUmi 
men  at  three  dollam  the  pint!  Tobacoct,  of  v  ly  iiiH  rior  ((tial' 
ity,  such  as  could  bo  purchased  in  rhiladelphia  ut  iiboiil  Um  n'titn 
jxjr  pound,  here  brings  two  dollars !  and  everylhin^;;  olw  in  pro. 
portion.  There  is  no  coin  in  circulation,  nnd  Ihowj  iii'ticliw  nm 
therefore  paid  for  by  the  independent  mountoinMiiun,  in  hc/ivcr 
skins,  buffalo  robes,  &.c.\  and  those  who  are  liireij  to  thii  «'<»(ii|)(i- 
nies,  have  them  charged  against  their  wages. 

I  was  somewhat  amused  to-day  by  observing  one  of  our  newly 
hired  men  enter  the  tent,  and  order,  with  the  air  of  u  um»  who 
knew  he  woidd  not  be  refused,  twenty  iloUara'  worth  of  rum,  unit 
ten  dollars  worth  of  sugar,  to  treat  two  of  liis  coinpniiioim  v,  lin 
were  about  leaving  the  rendezvous  ! 

30<A. — Our  camp  hero  is  a  most  lovely  one  in  evpry  rc^prcl, 
nnd  as  several  days  have  elapsed  since  v/o  came,  and  I  tun  «'itii« 
valesccnt,  I  can  roam  about  the  country  a  little  uud  enjoy  il, 
The  pasture  is  rich  and  very  abundant,  and  it  duci  oiii'  lieiti'lrt 
good  to  witness  the  satisfaction  and  comfort  of  our  poor  jjtdcd 
horses.  Our  tents  are  pitched  in  a  pretty  little  valley  or  indeijlft- 
tion  in  the  plain,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  low  hlulISi  of  yellow 
clay.  Near  us  flows  the  clear  deep  water  of  tlio  Hlwkiidee,  fliiil 
beyond,  on  every  side,  is  a  wide  and  level  prairie,  internipted  only 
by  some  gigantic  peaks  of  mountains  and  conical  buti'it  in  the 
distance.  The  river,  here,  contains  a  great  number  of  larj^e  IroMf , 
some  grayling,  and  a  small  narrow-mouthed  whiter  li.'ili,  jeseiilbliMi* 
a  herring.     They  are  all  frequently  taken  with  the  hook,  find,  ilitf 

mi 

trout  particularly,  afford  excellent  sport  to  the  lovers  of  lin^tlnj/. 
Old  Izaac  Walton  would  be  in  his  glory  here,and  the  \>rcm\\\\'utmtw 
measures  which  he  so  strongly  recomun  nds  in  upprouehin^  (i 
trout  stream,  he  would  not  need  to  practise,  as  the  (isli  h  tiof 


i 


ACnOSS    TIIK    nOCKY    MOITNTAINa,  KTC.  tT 

shy,  and  bites  quickly  und  eagerly  at  a  grasshopper  or  min- 


iiow. 


Biifllilo,  antelopes,  and  elk  arc  nbiindnnt  in  the  'iclnity,  nnd 
we  arc  tlicrofore  living  well.  Wo  have  seen  also  another  kind 
of  game,  a  beautiful  bird,  the  size  of  a  half  grown  turkey,  calli-d 
the  cock  of  the  plains,  ( Tetrao  vrophaaiamia.)  We  first  met  with 
this  noble  bird  on  the  plains,  about  two  days'  journey  oast  of 
( Jrecn  river,  in  flocks,  or  packs,  of  fifteen  or  twenty,  nnd  so  ex- 
ceedingly tame  as  to  allow  an  approach  to  within  a  few  feet,  run- 
ning before  our  horses  like  domestic  fowls,  and  not  unfrequently 
hojjping  under  their  bullies,  while  the  men  amused  themselves 
by  striking  out  their  feathers  with  their  riding  whips.  When 
wo  first  saw  them,  the  temptation  to  shoot  was  irresistible ;  the 
guns  were  cracking  all  around  us,  nnd  the  poor  grouse  falling 
in  every  direction ;  but  what  was  our  disappointment,  when,  upon 
roastin"  them  nicely  before  the  fire,  wo  found  them  so  strong  and 
bitter  as  not  to  be  eatable.  From  this  time  the  cock  of  the 
plains  was  allowed  to  roam  free  and  unmolested,  and  as  ho  has 
failed  to  please  our  palates,  we  arc  content  to  admire  tho 
beauty  of  his  plumage,  and  the  grace  and  spirit  of  his  atti- 
tudes. 

July  2d. — We  bade  adieu  to  the  rendezvous  this  morning; 
packed  up  our  moveables,  and  journicd  along  the  bank  of  the 
river.  Our  horses  are  very  much  recruited  by  the  long  reyt 
and  good  pasture  which  they  have  enjoyed,  and,  like  their  mas- 
ters, are  in  ovcollent  spirits. 

During  our  stay  at  the  rendezvous,  many  of  us  looked  anx- 
iously for  letters  from  our  families,  which  we  expected  by  the 
later  caravans,  but  we  were  all  disappointed.  For  myself,  I  have 
received  but  one  since  I  loft  my  home,  but  this  has  been  my  so- 
lace through  many  along  and  dreary  journey.  Many  a  time,  while 
pacing  my  solitary  round  as  night-guard  in  the  wilderness,  have  I 


78 


NARRATIVE   OP   A   JOirRNEV 


sat  myself  down,  nnti  stirring  up  the  dying  embers  of  the  cnmp  fire, 
talten  the  precious  little  memento  from  my  bosom,  undrawn  the 
string  of  the  leathern  sack  which  contained  it,  ond  poured  over 
the  dear  characters,  till  my  eyes  would  swim  with  sweet,  but  sad 
recollections,  then  kissing  the  inanimate  paper,  return  it  to  its 
sanctuary,  tighten  up  my  pistol  belt,  shoulder  my  gun,  and  with 
a  quivering  voice,  swelling  the  "  aWa  welV  upon  the  night 
breeze,  resume  my  slow  and  noiseless  trump  around  my  sleeping 
companions. 

Many  of  our  men  have  left  us,  and  joined  the  returning  compa- 
nies, but  we  .have  had  an  accession  to  our  porty  of  about  thirty 
Indians ;  Flat-heads,  Nez  Percys,  &c.,  with  their  wives,  children, 
and  dogs.  Without  these  our  camp  would  be  small ;  they  will 
probably  travel  with  us  until  wo  arrive  on  Snake  river,  and  pass 
over  the  country  where  the  most  danger  is  to  bo  apprehended 
from  their  enemies,  the  Black-feet. 

Some  of  the  women  in  this  party,  particularly  those  of  the 
Ncz  Force  nation,  arc  rather  handsome,  and  their  persons  are 
decked  off  in  truly  savage  taste.  Their  dresses  of  deer  skin 
are  profusely  ornamented  with  beads  and  porcupine  quills ;  huge 
strings  of  beads  are  hung  around  their  necks,  and  their  saddles 
arc  garnished  with  dozens  of  little  hawk's  bells,  which  jingle  and 
make  music  for  them  as  they  travel  along.  Several  of  these  women 
have  little  children  tied  to  their  backs,  sewed  up  papoose  fashion, 
only  the  head  being  seen;  as  they  jolt  along  the  road,  we  not  un- 
frequently  hear  their  voices  ringing  loud  and  shrill  above  the 
music  of  the  bells.  Other  little  fellows  who  have  ceased  to  re- 
quire the  maternal  contributions,  are  tied  securely  on  other  horses, 
and  all  their  care  seems  to  be  to  sleep,  which  they  do  most  perti- 
naciously in  spite  of  jolting,  noise,  and  clamor.  There  is  among 
this  party,  a  Blackfoot  chief,  a  renegado  from  his  tribe,  who 
sometime  since  killed  the  principal  chiof  of  his  nation,  and  was 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


70 


was 


in  conscquonco  under  the  necessity  of  nbsconiling.  lie  lins  now 
joinoil  the  party  of  his  hereditary  foes,  ond  is  prepared  to  fi^ht 
against  his  own  people  and  Icindrcd.  Ho  is  a  fine,  warlike 
looking  fellow,  and  although  he  takes  part  in  all  the  war-songs, 
and  slmm-bnttles  of  his  adopted  brothers,  and  whoops,  and  howls 
as  loud  as  tlio  best  of  them,  yet  it  is  plain  to  perceive  that  he  is 
distrusted  and  disliked.  All  men,  whether,  civilized  or  savage, 
honorable,  or  otherwise,  detest  and  scorn  a  traitor ! 

Wo  were  joined  at  tho  rendezvous  by  a  Captain  Stewart,  an 
English  gentleman  of  noble  family,  who  is  travelling  for  amuse- 
mcnt,  and  in  search  of  adventure.  lie  has  already  been  a  year 
in  the  mountains,  and  is  now  desirous  of  visiting  the  lower  coun- 
try, from  which  he  may  probably  tako  passage  to  England  by 
sea.  Another  Englishman,  a  young  man,  named  Ashworlh, 
also  attached  himself  to  our  party,  for  tho  same  purpose. 

Our  course  lay  along  the  bank  of  Ham's  fork,  through  a 
hilly  and  stony,  but  not  a  rocky  country ;  the  willow  flourished 
on  the  margin  of  tho  stream,  and  occasionally  the  eye  was  re- 
lieved, on  scanning  the  plain,  by  a  pretty  clump  of  cottonwood 
or  poplar  trees.  The  cock  of  the  plains  is  very  abundant  here, 
and  our  pretty  little  summer  yellow  bird,  (Sylvia  cestiva,)  one  of 
our  most  common  birds  at  home,  is  our  constant  companion. 
How  natural  sounds  his  little  monotonous  stave,  and  how  it  seems 
to  carry  us  back  to  the  dear  scenes  for  which  we  have  exchanged 
the  wild  and  pathless  wilderness  ! 

ith. — We  left  Ham's  fork  this  morning, — now  diminished  to 
a  little  purling  brook, — and  passed  across  the  hills  in  a  north-west- 
erly direction  for  about  twenty  miles,  when  we  struck  Muddy 
creek.  This  is  a  branch  of  Bear  river,  which  empties  into  the  Salt 
lake,  or  "  lake  Bonneville,"  as  it  has  been  lately  named,  for  what 
reason  I  know  not.  Our  camp  here,  is  a  beautiful  and  most  de- 
lightful one.     A  large  plain,  like  a  meadow,  of  rich,  waving 


80 


NABRATIVE    OF    A    JOURNEY 


grass,  with  a  lovely  little  stream  running  through  the  midst,  liigh 
hills,  capped  with  shapely  cedars  on  two  sides,  and  on  the  olhuN 
an  immense  plain,  with  snow  clad  mountains  in  the  distoneo, 
This  being  a  memorable  day,  the  liquor  kegs  were  opened,  mid 
the  men  allowed  an  abundance.  We,  therefore,  soon  luul  u 
renewal  of  the  coarse  and  brutal  scenes  of  the  rendc/vouw. 
Some  of  the  bacchoials  called  for  a  volley  in  honor  of  thu  day, 
and  in  obedience  to  the  order,  some  twenty  or  thirty  "  Imppy" 
ones  reeled  into  line,  with  their  muzzles  directed  to  every  paiHt 
of  the  compass,  and  when  the  word  "  fire"  was  given,  wo  who 
were  not  "  happy"  had  to  lie  flat  upon  the  ground  to  avoid  tho 
bullets  which  were  careering  through  the  camp. 

In  this  little  stream,  the  trout  are  more  abundant  than  wc  bftve 
yet  seen  tli^m.  One  of  our  sober  men  took,  this  afternoon, 
upwards  of  thirty  pounds.  These  fish  would  probably  averugw 
fifteen  or  sixteen  inches  in  length,  and  weigh  thrce-(|uarters  of  ft 
pound ;  occasionally,  however,  a  much  larger  one  is  seen. 

nth. — Wc  travelled  about  twenty  miles  this  day,  over  a  country 
abounding  in  lofty  hills,  and  early  in  the  afternoon  arrived  «n 
Bear  river,  and  encamped.  This  is  a  fine  stream  of  about  utm 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  width,  with  a  moveable,  sandy  bottom. 
The  grass  is  dry  and  poor,  the  willow  abounds  along  the  biinkN, 
and  at  a  distance  marks  the  course  of  the  stream,  which 
meanders  through  an  alluvial  plain  of  four  to  six  miles  in  width. 
At  the  distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles  from  this  point,  tho 
Bear  river  enters  the  Salt  lake,  a  large  body  of  salt  water,  with* 
out  outlet,  in  which  there  is  so  large  an  island  as  to  afford  strconw 
of  fresh  water  for  goats  and  other  animals  living  upon  it, 

On  the  next  day  we  crossed  the  river,  which  we  immodiatoly 
left,  to  avoid  a  great  bend,  and  passed  over  some  lofty  ranjjiw  of 
hills  and  through  the  rugged  and  stony  valleys  between  them ; 
the  wind  was  blowing  a  gale  right  ahead,  and  clouds  of  dust  wcro 
flying  in  our  faces,  so  that  at  the  end  of  the  day,  our  couil» 


ACROSS    THE    HOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


81 


tcnanccs  were  disguised  as  they  were  on  the  plains  of  the  Platte. 
Tlie  march  to-day  has  been  a  most  laborious  and  fatiguing  one 
both  for  man  and  beast ;  we  have  travelled  steadily  from  morning 
till  night,  not  stopping  at  noon;  our  poor  horses'  feet  are 
becoming  very  much  worn  and  sore,  and  when  at  length  we 
struck  Bear  river  again  and  encamped,  the  wearied  animals  re- 
fused to  eat,  stretching  themselves  upon  the  ground  and  falling 
asleep  from  very  exhaustion. 

Trout,  grayling,  and  a  kind  of  char  are  very  abundant  here — 
the  first  very  large.  The  next  day  we  travelled  but  twelve 
miles,  it  being  impossible  to  urge  our  worn-out  horses  farther. 
Near  our  camp  this  evening  we  found  some  large  gooseberries 
and  currants,  and  made  a  hearty  meal  upon  them.  They  were 
to  us  peculiarly  delicious.  We  have  lately  been  living  entirely 
upon  dried  buffalo,  without  vegetables  or  bread ;  even  this  is  now 
failing  us,  and  we  arc  upon  short  allowance.  Game  is  very 
scarce,  our  hunters  cannot  find  any,  and  our  Indians  have  killed 
but  two  buffalo  for  several  days.  Of  this  small  stock  they  would 
not  spare  us  a  mouthful,  so  it  is  probable  we  shall  soon  be  hungry. 
The  alluvial  plain  here  presents  many  unequivocal  evidences  of 
volcanic  action,  bein^  thickly  covered  with  masses  of  lava,  and 
high  walls  and  regular  columns  of  basalt  appear  in  many  places. 
The  surrounding  country  is  composed,  as  usual,  t  f  high  hills  and 
narrow,  stony  valleys  between  them  ;  the  hills  ire  thirkly  covered 
with  a  growth  of  small  cedars,  but  on  the  plain,  nothing 
flourishes  but  the  everlasting  wormwood,  or  sage  as  it  is  here 
called. 

Our  encampment  on  the  8th,  was  near  what  are  called  the 
"  White-clay  pits,"  still  on  Bear  river.  The  soil  is  soft  chalk, 
white  and  tenacious ;  and  in  the  vicinity  are  several  springs 
of  strong  supercarbonated  water,  which  bubble  up  with  all  the 

activity  of  artificial  fountains.    The  tnste  was  very   agreeable 

II 


S 


82 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


V  I 


and  refreshing,  resembling  Saratoga  water,  but  not  so  saline. 
The  whole  plain  to  the  hills,  is  covered  with  little  mounds  formed 
of  calcareous  sinter,  having  depressions  on  their  sumniits,  from 
which  once  issued  streams  of  water.  The  extent  of  these  erup- 
tions, at  some  former  period,  must  have  been  very  great.  At 
about  half  a  mile  distant,  is  an  eruptive  thermal  spring  of  the 
temperature  of  90°,  and  near  this  is  an  opening  in  the  earth  from 
which  a  stream  of  gas  issues  without  water. 

In  a  thicket  of  common  red  cedars,  near  our  camp,  I  found, 
and  procured  several  specimens  of  two  beautiful  and  rare  birds 
which  I  had  never  before  seen — the  Lewis'  woodpecker  and 
Clark's  crow,  (Picus  torquatus  and  Corvus  columbianus.) 

We  remained  the  wiiole  of  the  following  day  in  camp  to 
recruit  our  horses,  and  a  good  opportunity  was  thus  afforded  me 
of  inspecting  all  the  curiosities  of  this  wonderful  region,  and  of 
procuring  some  rare  and  valuable  specimens  of  birds.  Three  of 
our  hunters  sallied  forth  in  pursuit  of  several  buffalo  whose  tracks 
had  been  observed  by  some  of  the  men,  and  we  were  overjoyed 
to  sec  them  return  in  the  evening  loaded  with  the  meat  and 
marrow  bones  of  two  animals  which  they  had  killed. 

We  saw  here  the  whooping  crane,  and  white  pelican,  numerous ; 
and  in  the  small  streams  near  the  bases  of  the  hills,  the  common 
canvass-back  duck,  shoveller,  and  black  duck.  (^Anas  obacura,) 
were  feeding  their  young. 

We  were  this  evening  visited  by  Mr.  Thomas  McKay,*  an 
Indian  trader  of  some  note  in  the  mountains.  lie  is  a  step-son  of 
Dr.  McLaughlin,  the  chief  factor  at  Fort  Vancouver,   on  the 

•  This  ig  the  son  of  Mr.  Alexander  McKay,  who  was  massacred  by  tlie  Indians 
of  the  N.  W.  Coast  on  board  the  ship"  Tonquin,"  an  account  ol  wliicli  is  given  in 
Irving'*  "  Astoria."  I  have  often  heard  McKay  speak  of  tlie  tragical  fate  of  his 
parent,  and  with  the  bitter  animosity  and  love  of  revenge  inherited  from  his  Indian 
mother,  I  have  heard  him  declare  that  he  will  yet  be  known  on  the  coast  as  the 
avenger  of  bloail, 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


83 


Columbia,  and  the  leader  of  a  party  of  Canadians  and  Indians, 
now  on  a  hunt  in  the  vicinity.  This  party  is  at  present  in  our 
rear,  and  Mr.  McKay  has  come  ahead  in  order  to  join  us,  and 
keep  us  company  until  we  reach  Portneuf  river,  where  we  intend 
building  a  fort. 

10th. — Wc  were  moving  early  this  morning  :  our  horses  were 
very  much  recruited,  and  seemed  as  eager  as  their  masters  to  travel 
on.  It  is  astonishing  how  soon  a  horse  revives,  and  overcomes  the 
lassitude  consequent  upon  fatigue,  when  he  is  allowed  a  day's 
rest  upon  tolerable  pasture.  Towards  noon,  however,  after 
encountering  the  rough  lava-strewn  plain  for  a  few  hours,  they  be- 
came sufficiently  sobered  to  desist  from  all  unnecessary  curvetting 
and  prancing,  and  settled  down  into  a  very  matter-of-fact  trudge> 
better  suited  to  the  country  and  to  the  work  which  they  have  yet 
to  do. 

Soon  after  we  left,  we  crossed  one  of  the  high  and  stony  hills 
by  which  our  late  camp  is  surrounded  ;  then  making  a  gentle 
descent,  we  came  to  a  beautiful  and  very  fertile  plain.  This  is, 
however,  very  different  from  the  general  face  of  the  country;  in 
a  short  time,  after  passing  over  the  rich  prairie,  ch :  same  dry 
aridity  and  depauperation  prevailed,  which  is  aim  ■>  ;'niversal 
west  of  the  mountains.  On  the  wide  plain,  \\l  ob  crved  l.'i>ge 
sunken  spots,  some  of  ihcm  of  great  extent,  si.  rioundeci  by 
walls  of  lava,  indicating  the  existence,  at  some  very  ancient  date, 
of  active  craters.  These  eruptions  have  (»  i  nbly  been  ante- 
diluvian, or  have  existed  at  a  period  long  a.itcrior  to  the  present 
order  of  creation.  On  the  side  of  the  hills  are  high  walls  of  lava 
and  basaltic  dykes,  and  many  largeand  dark  caves  are  formed 
by  the  juxtaposition  of  the  enormous  masses. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  wc  passed  a  large  party  of  white  men, 
encamped  on  the  lava  plain  near  one  of  the  small  streams. 
Horses  were  tethered  all  around,  and  men  were  lolling  about 
playing  games  of  cards,  and  loitering  through  the  camp,  as 


'  I  k 


\\ 


I 


■I 


84 


NARRATIVE    OF    A    JOURNEY 


tlioiigh  at  a  loss  for  employment.  We  soon  ascertained  it  to  bo 
Captain  Bonneville's  company  resting  after  the  fatigues  of  a  long 
march.  Mr.  Wyeth  and  Captain  Stewart  visited  the  lodge  of  the 
"  bald  chief,"  and  our  party  proceeded  on  its  march.  The 
difficulties  of  the  route  seemed  to  increase  as  we  progressed, 
until  at  length  we  found  ourselves  wedged  in  among  huge  blocks 
of  lava  and  columns  of  basalt,  and  were  forced,  most  reluctantly, 
to  retrace  our  steps  for  several  miles,  over  the  impediments  which 
we  had  hoped  we  were  leaving  for  ever  behind  us.  We  had 
nearly  reached  Bonneville's  camp  again,  when  Captains  Wyeth 
and  Stewart  joined  us,  and  we  struck  into  another  path  which 
l)roved  more  tolerable.  Wyeth  gave  us  a  rather  amusing 
account  of  his  visit  to  the  worthy  captain.  He  and  Captain 
Stewart  were  received  very  kindly  by  the  veteran,  and  every 
delicacy  that  the  lodge  afforded  was  brought  forth  to  do  them 
honor.  Among  the  rest,  was  some  methiglcn  or  diluted  alcohol 
sweetened  with  honey,  which  the  good  host  had  concocted  ;  this 
dain'y  beverage  was  set  before  them,  and  the  thirsty  guests 
were  not  slow  in  taking  advantage  of  the  invitation  so  obligingly 
given.  Draught  after  draught  of  the  precious  liquor  disappeared 
down  the  throats  of  the  visiters,  until  the  anxious,  but  still  com- 
plaisant captain,  began  to  grow  uneasy. 

"  J  beg  you  will  help  yourselves,  gentlemen,"  said  the  host, 
with  a  smile  which  lie  intended  to  express  the  utmost  urbanity, 
but  w  hich,  in  spite  of  himself,  had  a  certain  ghastlincss  about  it. 

"  Thank  you,  sir,  we  will  do  so  freely,"  replied  the  two 
worthies,  and  away  went  thu  mclhiglen  as  bclbre. 

Cup  after  cup  was  drained,  until  the  hollow  sound  of  the  keg 
indicated  that  its  contents  were  nearly  exhausted,  when  the 
company  rose,  and  thanking  the  kind  host  for  his  noble  enter- 
tainment, were  bowed  out  of  the  tent  with  all  the  polite  formality 
which  the  accomplished  captain  knows  so  well  how  to  assume. 

Towards  evening,  we  struck  Blackfoot  river,  a  small,  sluggish, 


ACnOSn  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


86 


8tn{;niint  Hirnotn,  heading  with  the  waters  of  a  rapid  rivulet 
piiNWid  yriHtcrdtty,  which  empties  into  the  Bear  river.  This 
Htruuni  pnMWfS  in  a  north-westerly  direction  through  a  valley  of 
about  six  milns  in  width,  covered  with  quagmires,  through  which 
wo  had  ^rcttt  difficulty  in  making  our  way.  As  we  approached 
our  t'Mcampmcnf,  near  a  small  grove  of  willows,  on  the  margin 
of  th«  river,  a  tremendous  grizzly  bear  rushed  out  upon  us. 
Our  liorHfiM  ran  wildly  in  every  direction,  snorting  with  terror, 
tt;. '  bnciim*!  nearly  unmanageable.  Several  bails  were  instantly 
fir«(l  Into  him,  but  they  only  seemed  to  increase  his  fury.  After 
«pen(llnj(  a  moment  in  rending  each  wound,  (their  invariable 
pmi'UcM,)  he  Helccted  the  person  who  happened  to  bo  nearest,  and 
durtcul  nfivr  him,  but  before  he  proceeded  far,  he  was  sure  to  be 
stoppod  iij^ain  by  a  ball  from  another  quarter.  In  this  way  he 
w(i«  driven  aiiout  amongst  us  for  perhaps  fifteen  minutes,  at 
tiniiiH  HO  near  some  of  thcvhorses,  that  he  received  several  severe 
l<!(!kM  from  thorn.  One  of  tho  pack  horses  was  fairly  fastened  upon 
by  the  torriftc  claws  of  the  brute,  and  in  the  terrified  animal's 
clFortH  to  escape  the  dreaded  gripe,  the  pack  and  saddle  were 
broken  to  pieces  and  disengaged.  One  of  our  mules  also  lent 
him  u  kick  in  the  head  while  pursuing  it  up  an  adjacent  hill, 
which  Hftrit  him  rolling  to  the  bottom.  Hero  he  was  finally 
brought  i'f  n  Htand. 

Tli(!  poor  niiimal  was  so  completely  surrounded  by  enemies 
that  he  iMicume  bewildered.  Ho  raised  himself  upon  his  hind 
foot,  Htunding  almost  erect,  his  mouth  partly  open,  and  from  his 
protruding  tongue  the  blood  fell  fast  in  drops.  While  in  this 
powilion,  he  received  about  six  more  balls,  each  of  which  made 
liiiri  reel,  At  lant,  as  in  complete  desperation,  he  dashed  into  the 
w»l(,'r,  and  Mwom  several  yards  with  astonishing  strength  and 
agility,  tlie  gUJi«  cracking  at  him  constantly;  but  he  was  not  to 
proceed  far.  .hmt  then,  Richardson,  who  had  been  absent,  rode 
U|>,  uud  fixing  U\h  deadly  aim  upon  him,  fired  a  ball  into  the  back 


I '  ks. 


I ; 


if 


86 


NARRATIVE   OF    A   JOVRNET 


of  his  head,  which  killed  him  instantly.  The  strength  of  four  men 
was  required  to  drag  the  ferocious  brute  from  the  water,  and 
upon  examining  his  body,  he  was  found  completely  riddled; 
there  did  not  appear  to  be  four  inches  of  his  shaggy  person,  from 
the  hips  upward,  that  had  not  received  a  ball.  There  must 
have  been  at  least  thirty  shots  made  at  him,  and  probably  few 
missed  him;  yet  such  was  his  tenacity  of  life,  that  I  have  no 
doubt  he  would  have  succeeded  in  crossing  the  river,  but  for  the 
last  shot  in  the  brain.  He  would  probably  »v>  igh,  at  the  least, 
six  hundred  pounds,  and  was  about  the  height  of  nn  ordinary 
steer.  The  spread  of  the  foot,  laterally,  was  ton  inches, 
and  the  claws  measured  seven  inches  in  length.  Tins  animal 
was  remarkably  lean ;  when  in  good  condition,  he  would, 
doubtless,  much  exceed  in  >veight  the  estimate  I  have  given. 
Richardson,  and  two  other  hunters,  in  company,  killed  two  in 
the  course  of  the  afternoon,  and  snw  several  others. 

This  evening,  our  pet  antelope,  poor  little  "  Zip  Koon,"  met 
with  a  serious  accident.  The  mule  on  which  he  rode,  got  her 
feet  fastened  in  some  lava  blocks,  and,  in  the  struggle  to  extri- 
cate herself,  fell  violently  on  the  pointed  fragments.  One  of  the 
delicate  legs  of  our  favorite  was  broken,  and  he  was  otherwise 
so  bruifcd  and  hurt,  that,  from  sheer  mercy,  we  ordered  him 
killed.  We  had  hoped  to  be  able  to  take  him  to  the  fort  which 
we  intend  building  on  the  Portneuf  river,  where  he  could  have 
been  comPjrtably  cared  for.  This  is  the  only  pet  we  have  had 
in  the  camp,  which  continued  with  us  for  more  than  a  few  days. 
We  have  sometinos  taknn  j'oung  grizzly  bears,  but  these  little 
fellows,  even  v ';..")  not  larger  than  puppies,  are  so  cross  and 
snappish,  that  ;'  is  dangerous  to  Lundle  them,  and  we  could 
never  become  atlached  to  any  animal  so  ungentle,  and  therefore 
young  "  Ephraim,"  (to  give  him  his  mountain  cognomen,)  gene- 
rally meets  with  but  little  mercy  from  US'  when  his  evil  genius 
throws  him  in  our  way.     The  young  buffiilo  calf  is  also  very 


ACROSS    THE    ROCKY    MOVNTAINS,  ETC. 


87 


P'C 


often  taken,  and  if  removed  from  the  mother,  and  out  of  sight  of 
the  herd,  lie  will  follow  the  camp  as  steadily  as  a  dog ;  but  his 
propensity  for  keeping  close  to  the  horse's  heels,  often  gets  him 
into  trouble,  as  he  meets  with  more  kicks  than  caresses  from 
them.  He  is  considered  an  interloper,  and  treated  accordingly. 
The  bull  calf  of  a  month  or  two  old,  is  sometimes  rather  difficult 
to  manage;  he  shows  no  inclination  to  follow  the  camp  like  the 
younger  ones,  and  requires  to  be  dragged  along  by  main  force. 
At  such  times,  he  watches  for  a  good  opportunity,  and  before 
his  captor  is  aware  of  what  is  going  on,  he  receives  a  butt 
from  the  clumsy  head  of  the  intractable  little  brute,  which,  in 
most  cases,  lays  him  sprawling  upon  the  ground. 

1  had  an  adventure  of  this  sort  a  lew  days  before  wo  arrived 
at  the  rendezvous.  I  captured  a  large  bull  calf,  and  with  con- 
siderable difficulty,  managed  to  drag  him  into  the  camp,  by 
means  of  a  rope  noosed  around  his  neck,  and  made  fast  to  the 
high  pommel  of  my  saddle.  Here  I  attached  him  firmly  by  a 
cord  to  a  stake  driven  into  the  ground,  and  considered  him 
secure.  In  a  few  minutes,  however,  ho  succeeded  in  breaking 
)iis  fastenings,  and  away  he  scoured  out  of  the  camp.  I  lost  no 
time  in  giving  chase,  and  although  I  fell  flat  into  a  ditch,  and 
afforded  no  litttle  ariiusement  to  our  people  thereby,  I  soon  over- 
took him,  and  was  about  seizing  the  stranded  rope,  which  was 
still  around  his  neck,  when,  to  my  surprise,  the  little  animal 
showed  fight ;  he  came  at  me  with  all  his  force,  and  dashing  his 
head  into  my  breast,  bore  me  to  the  ground  in  a  twinkling.  I, 
however,  finally  succeeded  in  recapturing  him,  and  led  and 
puslied  him  back  into  the  camp;  but  I  could  make  nothing  of 
him ;  his  stubbornness  would  neither  yioKl  to  severity  or  kind- 
ness, and  the  next  morning  I  loosed  him  and  let  him  go. 

lltk. — On  ascending  a  hill  this  morning,  Captain  Wycth, 
who  was  lit  the  head  of  the  company,  suddenly  espied  an  Indian 
stealinu;  c  utiouslv  alonir  the  <uinmil.  and  ovidentiv  uiuleavcrins 


I 


f 


i 


.A'l 


mi 


88 


NARRATIVE   OP   A   JOURNRY 


to  conceal  himself.  Captain  W.  directed  the  attention  of  McKay 
to  the  crouching  figure,  who,  the  moment  he  caught  a  glimpse  of 
him,  exclaimed,  in  tones  of  joyful  astonishment,  "  a  Blackfoot, 

by !"  and  clapping  spurs  to  his  horse,  tore  up  the  hill  with 

the  most  frantic  eagerness,  with  his  rifle  poised  in  his  hand 
ready  for  a  shot.  The  Indian  disappeared  over  the  hill  like  a 
lightning  flash,  and  in  another  second,  McKay  was  also  out  of 
sight,  and  wc  could  hear  the  rapid  clatter  of  his  horse's  hoofs  in 
hot  pursuit  after  the  fugitive.  Several  of  the  men,  with  myself, 
followed  after  at  a  rapid  gait,  with,  however,  a  very  different 
object.  Mine  was  simply  curiosity,  mingled  with  some  anxiety, 
lest  the  wily  Indian  should  lead  our  impetuous  friend  into  an 
ambushment,  and  his  life  thus  fall  a  sacrifice  to  his  temerity. 
When  we  arrived  at  the  hill-top,  McKay  was  gone,  but  we  saw 
the  track  of  his  horse  passing  down  the  side  of  it,  and  we  traced 
him  into  a  dense  thicket  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant. 
Several  of  our  hardy  fellows  entered  this  thicket,  and  beat  about 
for  some  time  in  various  directions,  but  nothing  could  they  see 
either  of  McKay  or  the  Indian.  In  the  mean  time,  the  party 
passed  on,  and  my  apprehensions  were  fast  settling  into  a  cer- 
tainty that  our  bold  companion  had  found  the  death  he  had  so 
rashly  courted,  when  I  was  inexpressibly  relieved  by  hearing 
the  crackling  of  the  bushes  near,  which  was  immediately 
followed  by  the  appearance  of  the  missing  man  himself. 

He  was  in  an  excessively  bad  humor,  and  grumbled  audibly 
about  the  "  Blackfoot  rascal  getting  off  in  that  cowardly  fashion," 
without  at  all  heeding  the  congratulations  which  I  was  showering 
upon  him  for  his  almost  miraculous  escape.  He  was  evidently 
not  aware  of  having  been  peculiarly  exp(»sod,  and  was  regretting, 
like  the  hunter  who  loses  his  game  by  a  sudden  shift  of  wind, 
that  his  human  \nv\  had  escaped  him. 

The  appcaramv  of  this  Indian  is  a  proof  that  others  are  h»rk- 
ing  noar;  and  if  the  party  hap|iens  to  be  largo,  they  may  give  us 


ACROSS  THE   ROCKV   MOrNTAINS,  ETC. 


89 


n," 

ring 

jtly 

(ng' 
Ind, 


Irk- 

1  us 


some  trouble.  Wo  are  now  in  a  part  of  the  country  which  is 
almost  constantly  infested  by  the  Blackfeet;  we  have  seen  for 
several  mornings  past,  the  tracks  of  moccasins  around  our  camp, 
and  not  unfrequently  the  prints  of  unshod  horses,  so  that  we 
know  we  are  narrowly  watched  ;  and  the  slumbering  of  one  of 
the  guard,  or  the  slightest  appearance  of  carelessness  in  the  con- 
duct of  the  camp,  may  bring  the  savages  whooping  upon  us  like 
demons. 

Our  encampment  this  evening  is  on  one  of  the  head  branches 
of  the  Blackfoot  river,  from  which  we  can  see  the  three  remark- 
able conic  summits  known  by  the  name  of  the  "TAree  J?«/e«" 
or  "  Tetons.^^  Near  these  flows  the  Portncuf,  or  south  branch  of 
Snake  or  Lewis'  river.  Here  is  to  be  another  place  of  rest,  and 
we  look  forward  to  it  with  pleasure  both  on  our  own  account  and 
on  that  of  our  wearied  horses. 

12th. — In  the  afternoon  we  made  a  camp  on  Ross'  creek,  a 
small  branch  of  Snake  river.  The  pasture  is  better  than  we  have 
had  for  two  weeks,  and  the  stream  contains  an  abundance  of  ex- 
cellent trout.  Some  of  these  are  enormous,  and  very  fine  eating. 
They  bite  eagerly  at  a  grasshopper  or  minnow,  but  the  largest 
fish  are  shy,  and  the  sportsman  requires  to  be  carefully  concealed 
in  order  to  take  them.  We  have  here  none  of  the  fine  tackle 
jointed  rods,  reels,  and  silkworm  gut  of  the  accomplished  city 
sportsman ;  we  have  only  a  piece  of  common  cord,  and  a  hook 
seized  on  with  half-hitches,  with  a  willow  rod  cut  on  the  banks 
of  the  stream ;  but  with  this  rough  equipment  we  take  as  many 
trout  as  we  wish,  and  who  could  do  more,  even  with  all  the  cu- 
rious contrivances  of  old  Izaac  Walton  or  Christopher  North  ? 

The  band  of  Indians  which  kept  company  with  us  from  the 
rendezvous,  left  us  yesterday,  and  fell  back  to  join  Captain  Bon- 
neville's party,  which  is  travelling  on  behind.     We  do  not  regret 

their  absence  ;  for  although  they  added  strength  to  our  band,  and 

12 


):  M 


I     i 


00 


NAUHATIVB   OF    A   JOUHNKV 


would  linvc  bcnn  useful  in  case  of  nn  attack  from  Hl(U".'l'  ;',  y«t 
they  added  very  materially  to  our  cares,  and  gave  um  wouio  tr«n«hla 
by  their  noise,  confusion,  and  singing  at  night. 

On  the  14th,  wc  travelled  but  about  six  miles,  when  u  hull  wan 
called,  and  we  pitched  our  tents  upon  the  bankii  of  lln'  mh\o 
Shoshond  or  Snake  river.  It  seems  now,  as  thoii|{h  wn  were 
really  nearing  the  western  extremity  of  our  vast  continont>  Wo 
are  now  on  u  stream  which  pours  its  waters  diri'ctly  into  iho 
Columbia,  and  we  can  form  some  idea  of  the  great  Or<tj{o»  fivri* 
by  the  beauty  and  magnitude  of  its  tributary.  Houu  (tllt.'C  wo 
stopped.  Captain  W.,  Richardson,  and  two  otli(!rs  jell  uh  to  m<vk 
for  a  suitable  spot  for  building  a  fort,  and  in  the  evening  tlMty 
returned  with  the  information  that  an  excellent  und  convctiiitiit 
place  had  been  pitched  upon,  about  five  miles  irom  our  prttM'tti 
encampment.  On  their  route,  they  killed  a  buffalo,  whi«'li  (lioy 
left  at  the  site  of  the  fort,  suitably  protected  from  wolv»!«,  dike. 
This  is  very  pleasing  intelligence  to  us,  as  our  stock  of  drintl 
meat  is  almofst  exhausted,  and  for  several  days  past  wo  liiivd 
been  depending  almost  exclusively  upon  fish. 

The  next  morning  we  moved  early,  and  soon  arrived  nt  our 
destined  camp.  This  is  a  fine  large  plain  on  the  south  mUt  of 
the  Portnnuf,  with  an  abundance  of  excellent  grass  and  rit'h  xoil, 
The  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  thickly  covered  with  larjjje  timlx't" 
of  Cottonwood  and  willow,  with  a  dense  undergrowtli  of  the 
same,  intermixed  with  service-berry  and  currant  bushes. 

Most  of  the  men  were  immediately  put  to  work,  felling  frwix, 
making  horse-pens,  and  preparing  the  various  requisite  mntoriiilM 
for  the  building,  while  others  were  ordered  to  get  tht^meolviSH  in 
readiness  for  a  start  on  the  back  track,  in  order  to  mako  a  hu»l, 
and  procure  meat  for  the  camp.  To  this  party  I  have  uttwiliod 
myself,  and  all  my  leisure  time  to-day  is  employed  in  prepnring 
for  it. 

Our  number  will  be  twelve,  and  each  man  will  lead  a  mult*  with 


ArROSS   THH   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


tt 


wifC'-:'!,  yet 

I  a  hull  yvuH 
'  til'!  nolilo 
ii  w«  Wi'fe 
mm,  Wo 
\y  into  tlm 
'"j[u»  rivcc 

llai  to  Hcck 

filing  fli(*y 
c'«nvt'ni«*iit 
w  [ttmiii 
fUU'h  liwy 

'U  of  (IriftiJ 
t  wo  huve 


a  pack-saddlo,  in  order  to  bring  in  the  meat  that  wc  may  kill. 
Richardson  is  the  principal  of  this  party,  and  Mr.  Ashworth  hus 
also  consented  to  join  us,  so  that  I  hope  wo  shall  have  an  agreea- 
ble trip.  There  will  bo  but  littlo  hard  work  to  perform;  our 
men  arc  mostly  of  tho  best,  and  no  rum  or  cards  arc  al- 
lowed. 


ed  nl  our 
Uh  Nido  t,i' 
m\i  nin\, 
r^«  timber 
th  of  the 

>ng  trma, 
mntorirtlH 

nselvfls  jii 

;o  n  hunt, 
unm\m\ 

preparing 


niilfl  with 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  S72-4S03 


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92 


NARRATIVE  OF  A  JOURNEY  '    ' 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Departure  of  the  hunting  camp— A  false  alarm— £lackfeet  Indians— their 
ferocity— Requisites  of  a  mountain-man— Good  fare,  and  good  appetites— ^n 
erperiment— Grizzly  bears— Visit  of  a  JVex  Percd  Indian— Mvetaure  with 
a  grizzly  bear— Hunter's  anecdotes— Homeward  bound— Occident  from  gun- 
powder— Arrival  at  "  Fort  Hall" — A  salute— Emaciation  of  some  of  the 
party  from  low  diet — Mr.  McKay^s  company — Buffalo  lodges — Progress  of 
the  bmlding— Effects  £/*  judicious  training— Indian  -worship — A  "  Camp 
Meeting" — Mr.  Jason  Lee,  a  favorite— A  fatal  accident  and  a  burial. 

July  16th. — Our  little  hunting  party  of  twelve  men,  rode  out 
of  the  encampment  this  morning,  at  a  brisk  trot,  which  gait  was 
continued  until  we  arrived  at  our  late  encamp)iient  on  Ross' 
creek,  having  gone  about  thirty  miles.  Here  we  came  to  a  halt, 
and  made  a  hearty  meal  on  a  buffalo  which  wq  had  just  killed. 
While  we  were  eating,  a  little  Welshman,  whom  we  had  stationed 
outside  our  camp  to  watch  the  horses,  came  running  to  us  out  of 
breath,  crying  in  a  terrified  falsetto,  "  Indians,  Indiana/"  In  a 
moment  every  man  was  on  his  feet,  and  his  gun  in  his  hand ;  the 
horses  were  instantly  surrounded,  by  Richardson's  direction,  and 
driven  into  the  bushes,  and  we  were  preparing  ourselves  for  the 
coming  struggle,  when  our  hunter,  peering  out  of  the  thick  copse 
to  mark  the  approach  of  the  enemy,  burst  at  once  into  a  loud 
laugh,  and  muttering  something  about  a  Welsh  coward,  stepped 
boldy  from  his  place  of  concealment,  and  told  us  to  follow  him. 
When  we  had  done  so,  we  perceived  the  band  approaching 
steadily,  and  it  seemed  warily,  along  the  path  directly  in  our 
front.  Richardson  said  something  to  them  in  an  unknown 
tongue,  which  immediately  brought  several  of  the  strangers  to- 


ACROSS  THE  BOCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


80 


wards  us  at  full  gallop.  One  of  these  was  a  Canadian,  as  his 
peculiar  physiognomy,  scarlet  sash,  and  hat  ribbons  of  gaudy 
colors,  clearly  proved,  and  the  two  who  accompanied  him,  were 
Indians.  These  people  greeted  us  with  great  cordiality,  the 
more  so,  perhaps,  as  they  had  supposed,  on  seeing  the  smoke 
from  our  fire,  that  we  were  a  band  of  Blackfeet,  and  that,  there< 
fore,  there  was  no  alternative  for  them  but  to  fight.  While  we 
were  conversing,  the  whole  party,  of  about  thirty,  came  up,  and 
it  needed  but  a  glance  at  the  motley  group  of  tawdrily  dressed 
hybrid  boys,  and  blanketted  Indians,  to  convince  us  that  this 
was  McKay's  company  travelling  on  to  join  him  at  Fort  Hall. 

They  inquired  anxiously  about  their  leader,  and  seemed 
pleased  on  being  informed  that  he  was  so  near;  the  prospect  of  a 
few  day's  rest  at  the  fort,  and  the  regale  by  which  their  arrival 
was  sure  to  be  commemorated,  acted  upon  the  spirits  of  the  mer- 
curial young  half-breeds,  like  the  potent  liquor  which  they  ex- 
pected soon  to  quaff  in  company  with  the  kindred  souls  who 
were  waiting  to  receive  them. 

They  all  seemed  hungry,  and  none  required  a  second  invita- 
tion to  join  us  at  our  half  finished  meal.  The  huge  masses  of 
savoury  fleece  meat,  hump-ribs,  and  side-ribs  disappeared,  and 
were  polished  with  wonderful  dispatch ;  the  Canadians  ate  like 
half  famished  wolves,  and  the  sombre  Indians,  although  slower 
and  more  sedate  in  their  movements,  were  very  little  behind 
their  companions  in  the  agreeable  process  of  mastication. 
-  The  next  day  we  rode  thirty-four  miles,  and  encamped  on  a 
pretty  little  stream,  fringed  with  willows,  running  through  the 
midst  of  a  large  plain.  Within  a  few  miles,  we  saw  a  small 
herd  of  buffalo,  and  six  of  our  company  lefl  the  camp  for  a  hunt. 
In  an  hour  two  of  them  returned,  bringing  the  meat  of  one  ani- 
mal. We  all  commenced  work  immediately,  cutting  it  in  thin 
slices,  and  hanging  it  on  the  bushes  to  dry.  By  sundown,  our 
work  was  finished,  and  soon  after  dark,  the  remaining  hunters 


94 


I.J 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOtTBMBV 


came  in,  bringing  the  best  parts  of  three  more.  This  will  give 
us  abundance  of  work  for  to-morrow,  when  the  hunters  will  go 
out  again.  <  .   ;."•  ;  i  f 

Richardson  and  Sansbury  mention  having  seen  several  Black* 
feet  Indians  to-day,  who,  on  observing  them,  ran  rapidly  away, 
and,  as  usual,  concealed  themselves  in  the  bushes.  We  are 
now  certain  that  our  worst  enemies  are  around  us,  and  that  they 
are  only  waiting  for  a  favorable  time  and  opportunity  to  make 
an  attack.  They  are  not  here  for  nothing,  and  have  probably 
been  dogging  us,  and  reconnoitering  our  outposts,  so  that  the 
greatest  caution  and  watchfulness  will  be  required  to  prevent  a 
surprise.  We  are  but  a  small  company,  and  there  may  be  at 
this  very  moment  hundreds  within  hearing  of  our  voices. 

The  Blackfoot  is  a  sworn  and  determined  foe  to  all  white 
men,  and  he  has  often  been  heard  to  declare  that  he  would 
rather  hang  the  scalp  of  a  "  pale  face"  to  his  girdle,  than  kill  a 
buffalo  to  prevent  his  starving.      .- 

The  hostility  of  this  dreaded  tribe  is,  and  has  for  years  been, 
proverbial.  They  are,  perhaps,  the  only  Indians  who  do  not 
fear  the  power,  and  who  refuse  to  acknowledge  the  superiority  of 
the  white  man;  and  though  so  often  beaten  in  conflicts  with 
them,  even  by  their  own  mode  of  warfare,  and  generally  with 
numbers  vastly  inferior,  their  indomitable  courage  and  per* 
severance  still  urges  them  on  to  renewed  attempts ;  and  if  a 
single  scalp  is  taken,  it  is  considered  equal  to  a  great  victory, 
and  is  hailed  as  a  presage  of  future  and  more  extensive  triumphs. 

It  must  be  acknowledged,  however,  that  this  determined  hos- 
tility does  not  originate  solely  in  savage  nalignity,  or  an  abstract 
thirst  for  the  blood  of  white  men ;  it  is  fomented  and  kept  alive 
from  year  to  year  by  incessant  provocatives  on  the  part  of 
white  hunters,  trappers,  and  traders,  who  are  at  best  but  in- 
truders on  the  rightful  domains  of  the  red  man  of  the  wilderness. 


ACROSS  THB   KOCKY   HOVNTAITIS,  ETC. 


Many  a  night  have  I  sat  at  the  camp-fire,  and  listened  to  the 
recital  of  bloody  and  ferocious  scenes,  in  which  the  narrators 
were  the  actors,  and  the  poor  Indians  the  victims,  and  I  have  felt 
my  blood  tingle  with  shame,  and  boil  with  indignation,  to  hear 
the  diabolical  acts  applauded  by  those  for  whose  amusement  they 
were  related.  Many  a  precious  villain,  and  merciless  marauder, 
was  made  by  these  midnight  tales  of  rapine,  murder,  and  rob- 
bery ;  many  a  stripling,  in  whose  tender  mind  the  seeds  of  virtue 
and  honesty  had  never  germinated,  burned  for  an  opportunity 
of  loading  his  pack-horse  with  the  beaver  skins  of  some  solitary 
Blackfoot  trapper,  who  was  to  be  murdered  and  despoiled  of  the 
property  he  had  acquired  by  weeks,  and  perhaps  months,  of  toil 
and  danger. 

Acts  of  this  kind  are  by  no  means  unfrequent,  and  the  subjects 
of  this  sort  of  atrocity  are  not  'always  the  poor  and  despised 
Indians :  white  men  themselves  often  fall  by  the  hands  of  their 
companions,  when  by  good  fortune  and  industry  they  have 
succeeded  in  loading  their  horses  with  fur.  The  fortunate 
trapper  is  treacherously  murdered  by  one  who  has  eaten  from 
the  same  dish  and  drank  from  the  same  cup,  and  the  homicide 
returns  triumphantly  to  his  camp  with  his  ill  gotten  property. 
If  his  companion  be  inquired  for,  the  answer  is  that  some  days 
ago  they  parted  company,  and  he  will  probably  soon  join  them. 

The  poor  man  never  returns — no  one  goes  to  search  for  him— 
he  is  soon  forgotten,  or  is  only  remembered  by  one  more  steadfast 
than  the  rest,  who  seizes  with  avidity  the  first  opportunity  which 
is  afforded,  of  murdering  an  unoffending  Indian  in  revenge  for  the 
death  of  his  friend. 

On  the  20th,  We  moved  our  camp  to  a  spot  about  twelve 
miles  distant,  where  Richardson,  with  two  other  hunters,  stopped 
yesterday  and  spent  the  night.  They  had  killed  several  buffalo 
here,  and  were  busily  engaged  in  preparing  the  meat  when  we 
joined  them.     They  gave  us  a  meal  of  excellent  cow's  flesh,  and 


96 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


I  thought  I  never  had  eaten  any  thing  so  delicious.  Hitherto  we 
have  had  only  the  bulls  which  are  at  this  season  poor  and  rather 
unsavory,  but  now  we  are  feasting  upon  the  heat  food  in  the 
world. 

It  is  true  we  have  nothing  but  meat  and  good  cold  water,  but 
this  is  all  we  desire :  we  have  excellent  appetites,  no  dyspepsia, 
clear  heads,  sharp  ears,  and  high  spirits,  and  what  more  does  a 
man  require  to  make  him  happy  ? 

We  rise  in  the  morning  with  the  sun,  stir  up  our  fires,  and 
roast  our  breakfast,  eating  usually  from  one  to  two  pounds  of 
meat  at  a  morning  meal.  At  ten  o'clock  we  lunch,  dine  at  two, 
sup  at  five,  and  lunch  at  eight,  and  during  the  night-watch  com- 
monly provide  ourselves  with  two  or  three  "  hump-ribs"  and  a 
marrow  bone,  to  furnish  employment  and  keep  the  drowsy  god  at 
a  distance. 

Our  present  camp  is  a  beautiful  one.  A  rich  and  open  plain 
of  luxuriant  grass,  dotted  with  buffalo  in  all  directions,  a  high 
picturesque  hill  in  front,  and  a  lovely  stream  of  cold  mountain 
water  flowing  at  our  feet.  On  the  borders  of  this  stream,  as 
usual,  is  a  dense  belt  of  willows,  and  under  the  shade  of  these  we 
sit  and  work  by  day,  and  sleep  soundly  at  night.  Our  meat  is 
now  dried  upon  scaffolds  constructed  of  old  timber  which  we 
find  in  great  abundance  upon  the  neighboring  hill.  We  keep  a 
fire  going  constantly,  and  when  the  meat  is  sufficiently  dried,  it 
is  piled  on  the  ground,  preparatory  to  being  baled. 

21  at. — The  buffalo  appear  even  more  numerous  than  when 
we  came,  and  much  less  suspicious  than  common.  The  bulls  fre- 
quently pass  slowly  along  within  a  hundred  yards  of  us,  and  toss 
their  shaggy  and  frightful  looking  heads  as  though  to  warn  us 
against  attacking  or  approeching  them. 

Towards  evening,  to-day,  I  walked  out  with  my  gun,  in  the 
direction  of  one  of  these  prowling  monsters,  and  the  ground  in 
his  vicinity  being  covered  densely  with  bushes,  I  determined  to 


ACROSS  THE  ROCKY   MOVNTAINB,  ETC. 


9f 


to 


approach  as  near  him  as  possible,  in  order  to  try  the  efficacy  of 
a  ball  planted  directly  in  the  centre  of  the  forehead.  I  had  heard 
of  this  experiment  having  been  tried  without  success,  and  I  wished 
to  ascertain  the  truth  for  myself. 

"  Taking  the  wind"  of  the  animal,  as  it  is  called,  (that  is, 
keeping  to  leeward,  so  that  my  approach  could  not  be  perceived 
by  communicating  a  taint  to  the  air,)  I  crawled  on  my  hands  and 
knees  with  the  utmost  caution  towards  my  victim.  The  un« 
wieldy  brute  was  quietly  and  unsuspiciously  cropping  the  herb* 
age,  and  I  had  arrived  to  within  ten  feet  of  him,  when  a  sudden 
flashing  of  the  eye,  and  an  impatient  motion,  told  me  that  I  wa« 
observed.  He  raised  his  enormous  head,  and  looked  around  him, 
and  so  truly  terrible  and  grand  did  he  appear,  that  I  must  con* 
fess,  (in  your  car,)  I  felt  awed,  almost  frightened,  at  the  task  I 
had  undertaken.  But  I  had  gone  too  far  to  retreat;  so,  raising 
my  gun,  I  took  deliberate  aim  at  the  bushy  centre  of  the  fore* 
head,  and  fired.  The  monster  shook  his  head,  pawed  up  the 
earth  with  his  hoofs,  and  making  a  sudden  spring,  accompanied 
by  a  terrific  roar,  turned  to  make  his  escape.  At  that  instant, 
the  ball  from  the  second  barrel  penetrated  his  vitals,  and  he 
measured  his  huge  length  upon  the  ground.  In  a  few  seconds 
he  was  dead.  Upon  examining  the  head,  and  cutting  away  the 
enormous  mass  of  matted  hair  and  skin  which  enveloped  the 
skull,  my  large  bullet  of  twenty  to  the  pound,  was  found  com- 
pletely flattened  against  the  bone,  having  carried  with  it,  through 
the  interposing  integument,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  coarse 
hair,  but  without  producing  the  smallest  fracture.  I  was  satis* 
fied ;  and  taking  the  tongue,  (the  hunteWs  perquisite,)  I  returned 
to  my  companions. 

This  evening  the  roaring  of  the  bulls  in  the  gang  near  us  is 

terrific,  and  these  sounds  are  mingled  with  the  howling  of  large 

packs  of  wolves,  which  regularly  attend  upon  them,  and  the  hoarse 

screaming  of  hundreds  of  ravens  flying  over  head.     The  dreaded 

13 


98 


NARBATIVE   OF  A  JOlTltNET 


grizzly  bear  is  also  quite  common  in  this  neighborhood ;  two  have 
just  been  seen  in  some  bushes  near,  and  they  visit  our  camp  al- 
most every  night,  attracted  by  the  piles  of  meat  which  are  heaped 
all  around  us.  The  first  intimation  wc  have  of  his  approach  is 
a  great  grunt  or  snort,  unlike  any  sound  I  ever  heard,  but  much 
more  querulous  than  fierce;  then  we  hear  the  scraping  and 
tramping  of  his  huge  feet,  and  the  snufHng  of  his  nostrils,  as  the 
savory  scent  of  the  meat  is  wafted  to  them.  He  approaches 
nearer  and  nearer,  with  a  stealthy  and  fearful  pace,  but  just  as  he 
is  about  to  accomplish  the  object  of  his  visit,  he  suddenly  stops 
short ;  the  snuffing  is  repeated  at  long  and  trembling  intervals, 
and  if  the  sliglitest  motion  is  then  made  by  one  of  the  party, 
away  goes  "Ephraim,^^  like  a  cowardly  burglar  as  he  is,  and  we 
hear  no  more  of  him  that  night. 

On  the  23d  a  Nez  Perc^  Indian,  belonging  to  Mr.  McKay's 
company,  visited  us.  He  is  one  of  several  hunters  who  have 
been  sent  from  the  fort  on  the  same  errand  as  ourselves.  This 
was  a  middle  aged  man,  with  a  countenance  in  which  shrewd- 
ness  or  cunning,  and  complaisance,  appeared  singularly  blended. 
But  his  person  was  a  perfect  wonder,  and  would  have  served  ad- 
mirably for  the  study  of  a  sculptor.  The  form  was  perfection 
itself.  The  lower  limbs  were  entirely  naked,  and  the  upper  part 
of  the  person  was  only  covered  by  a  short  checked  shirt.  His 
blanket  lay  by  his  side  as  he  sat  with  us,  and  was  used  only 
while  moving.  I  could  not  but  admire  the  ease  with  which  the 
man  squatted  on  his  haunches  immediately  as  he  alighted,  and 
the  position  both  of  body  and  limbs  was  one  that,  probably,  no 
white  man  unaccustomed  to  it,  could  have  endured  for  many 
minutes  together.  The  attitude,  and  indeed  the  whole  figure 
was  groceful  and  easy  in  the  extreme;  and  on  criticising  his  per- 
son, one  was  forcibly  reminded  of  the  Apollo  Belvidere  of  Canova. 
His  only  weapons  were  a  short  bow  and  half  a  dozen  arrows,  a 
scalping  knife  and  tomahawk ;  with  these,  however,  weak  and  in- 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


99 


efficient  as  they  seemed,  he  had  done  good  service,  every  arrow 
being  smeared  with  blood  to  the  feathers.  Ho  told  Richardson 
that  ho  and  his  three  or  four  companions  had  killed  about  sixty 
buffalo,  and  that  noiv ,  having  meat  enough,  they  intended  to  re< 
turn  to  their  camp  to-morrow. 

This  afternoon  I  observed  a  large  flock  of  wild  geese  passing 
over ;  apd  upon  watching  them,  perceived  that  they  alighted  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  us,  where  I  knew  there  was  a  lake.  Con- 
cluding that  a  little  change  of  diet  might  be  agreeable,  I  sallied 
forth  with  my  gun  across  the  plain  in  quest  of  the  birds.  I  soon 
arrived  at  a  thick  copse  of  willow  and  currant  bushes,  which 
skirted  the  water,  and  was  about  entering,  when  I  heard  a  sort 
of  angry  growl  or  grunt  directly  before  me — and  instantly  after, 
saw  a  grizzly  bear  of  the  largest  kind  erect  himself  upon  his  hind 
feet  within  a  dozen  yards  of  me,  his  savage  eyes  glaring  with 
horrible  malignity,  his  mouth  wide  open,  and  his  tremendous 
paws  raised  as  though  ready  to  descend  upon  me.  For  a  mo- 
ment, I  thought  my  hour  had  come,  and  that  I  was  fated  to  die 
an  inglorious  death  away  from  my  friends  and  my  kindred  ;  but 
after  waiting  a  moment  in  agonizing  suspense,  and  the  bear  show- 
ing no  inclination  to  advance,  my  lagging  courage  returned,  and 
cocking  both  barrels  of  my  gun,  and  presenting  it  as  steadily  as 
my  nerves  would  allow,  full  at  the  shaggy  breast  of  the  creat'uo; 
I  retreated  slowly  backwards.  Bruin  evidently  had  no  notion  o*' 
braving  gunpowder,  but  I  did  not  know  whether,  like  a  dog,  if 
the  enemy  retreated  he  would  not  yet  give  me  a  chase  ;  so  when  I 
had  placed  about  a  hundred  yards  between  us,  I  wheeled  about 
and  flew,  rather  than  ran,  across  the  plain  towards  the  camp. 
Several  times  during  this  run  for  life,  (as  I  considered  it,)  did  I 
fancy  that  I  heard  the  bear  at  my  heels ;  and  not  daring  to  look 
over  my  shoulder  to  ascertain  the  fact,  I  only  increased  my 
speed,  until  the  camp  was  nearly  gained,  when,  from  sheer  ex- 
haustion I  relaxed  my  efforts,  fell  flat  upon  the  ground,  and 


jm 


NABRATIVB   OF    A    JOURNEY 


looked  behind  me.  The  whole  8pace  between  me  and  the  copse 
was  untenanted,  and  I  was  forced  to  acknowledge,  with  a  feeling 
strongly  allied  to  shame,  that  my  fears  alone  had  represented 
the  bear  in  chase  of  me. 

When  I  arrived  in  camp,  and  told  my  break-neck  adventure  to 
the  men,  our  young  companion,  Mr.  Ashworth,  expressed  a  wish 
tu  go  and  kill  the  bear,  and  requested  the  loan  of  my  double-bar- 
relled gun  for  this  purpose.  This  I  at  first  peremptorily  refused,  and 
the  men,  several  of  whom  were  experienced  hunters,  joined  me  in 
urging  him  not  to  attempt  the  rash  adventure.  At  length,  how- 
ever, finding  him  determined  on  going,  and  that  rather  than  re- 
main, he  would  trust  to  his  own  single  gun,  I  was  finally  induced  to  of- 
fer him  mine,  with  a  request,  (which  I  had  hoped  would  check  his 
daring  spirit,)  that  he  would  leave  the  weapon  in  a  situation 
where  I  could  readily  find  it;  for  afler  he  had  made  one  shot,  he 
would  never  use  a  gun  again. 

He  seemed  to  heed  our  caution  and  tidvice  but  little,  and,  with 
a  dogged  and  determined  air,  took  the  way  across  the  plain  to 
the  bushes,  which  we  could  see  in  the  distance.  I  watched  him 
for  some  time,  until  I  saw  him  enter  them,  and  then,  with  a  sigh 
that  one  so  young  and  talented  should  be  lost  from  amongst  us, 
and  a  regret  that  we  did  not  forcibly  prevent  his  going,  I  sat 
myself  down,  distressed  and  melancholy.  We  all  listened  anx- 
iously to  hear  the  report  of  the  gun;  but  no  sound  reaching  our 
ears,  we  began  to  hope  that  he  had  failed  in  finding  the  animal, 
and  in  about  fifteen  minutes,  to  my  inexpressible  relief,  we  saw 
him  emerge  from  the  copse,  and  bend  his  steps  slowly  towards 
us.  When  he  came  in,  he  seemed  disappointed,  and  somewhat 
angry.  He  said  he  had  searched  the  bushes  in  every  direction, 
and  although  he  had  found  numerous  foot  prints,  no  bear  was  to 
be  seen.  It  is  probable  that  when  I  commenced  my  retreat  in 
one  direction,  bruin  made  off  in  the  other,  and  that  although  he 
was  willing  to  dispute  the  ground  with  me,  and  prevent  my 


ACROM  TtlR   ROCKY   NOVIfTAINS,  RTC.  lOl 

paNilng  hill  lair,  ho  waa  equally  willing  to  back  out  of  on  rn. 
gagoment  in  which  his  fears  suggested  that  he  might  como  oif 
the  loser. 

This  evening,  as  wo  sat  around  the  camp  Arc,  cozily  wrapped 
in  our  blankets,  some  of  our  old  hunters  became  garrulous,  and 
wo  hnd  several  good  **  yarnt"  as  a  sailor  would  say.  Ono  told 
of  his  having  boon  shot  by  a  Blackfoot  Indian,  who  was  disguised 
in  the  skin  of  on  elk,  and  exhibited,  with  some  little  pride,  o 
groat  cicatrix  which  disfigured  his  neck.  Another  gave  us  an 
interesting  account  of  an  attack  made  by  the  Cumancho  Indians 
upon  a  party  of  Santa*Fco  traders,  to  which  he  hud  been 
ottachod.  The  whito  men,  as  is  usual  in  general  engagements 
with  Indians,  gained  a  signal  victory,  not,  however,  without  tho 
loss  of  several  of  their  best  hunters ;  and  tho  old  man,  who  told 
the  story,—-"  undo  John,"  as  he  was  usually  called,— shod  tears 
at  the  recollection  of  tho  death  of  his  friends ;  and  during  that 
part  of  his  narrative,  was  several  times  so  much  affected  as  to 
be  unable  to  speak.* 

The  best  story,  however,  was  one  told  by  Richardson,  of  a 
meeting  ho  once  had  with  three  Blackfcet  Indians.  Ho  had 
been  out  alono  hunting  buffalo,  and  towards  tho  end  of  tho  day 
was  returning  to  tho  camp  with  his  meat,  when  ho  heard  tho 
clattering  of  hoofs  in  tho  rear,  and,  upon  looking  back,  observed 
three  Indians  in  hot  pursuit  of  him. 

He  immediately  discharged  hia  cargo  of  meat  to  lighten  his 
horse,  and  thon  urged  tho  animal  to  his  utmost  speed,  in  on 
attempt  to  distance  his  pursuers.  He  soon  discovered,  however, 
that  the  onemy  was  rapidly  gaining  upon  him,  and  that  in  a  Cow 


*  I  have  roiieatedljf  obtsrved  theie  exhibitions  of  feeling  in  some  of  our  pcoplo 
upon  piirtieular  oecationi,  and  I  have  been  pleaied  with  them,  at  Uiey  wemed  to 
furniih  an  cvidonee,  that  amid  all  the  mental  sterility,  and  absence  of  moral 
rectitude,  which  is  lo  deplorably  prevalent,  there  yet  lingers  some  kindlinsM  of 
heart,  some  sentiments  which  ore  not  wliotly  depraved. 


103 


NARRATIVE    OF   A   JOITRIfRY 


minutos  moro,  ho  would  bo  complotoly  at  thoir  mercy,  when  he 
hit  upon  an  cypediont,  as  singular  as  it  was  bold  and  courageous. 
Drawing  his  long  scalping  knifo  from  tho  sheath  at  his  side,  ho 
plunged  tho  keen  weapon  through  his  horse's  nock,  and  severed 
tho  spine.  Tho  animal  dropped  instantly  dead,  and  tho  dotcr- 
mined  hunter,  throwing  himself  behind  tho  fallen  carcass,  waited 
calmly  tho  approach  of  his  sanguinary  pursuers.  In  a  few 
moments,  ono  Indian  was  within  range  of  tho  fatal  rifle,  and  at 
its  report,  his  horse  galloped  riderless  over  tho  plain.  Tho  re- 
maining two  then  thought  to  take  him  at  advantage  by  approach- 
ing simultaneously  on  both  sides  of  his  rampart;  but  ono  of  thorn, 
happening  to  venture  too  near  in  order  to  bo  sure  of  his  aim, 
was  shot  to  the  heart  by  tho  long  pistol  of  tho  white  man,  at  tho 
very  instant  that  tho  ball  from  the  Indian's  gun  whistled  harm- 
lessly by.  The  third  savage,  being  wearied  of  the  dangerous 
game,  applied  the  whip  vigorously  to  tho  flanks  of  his  horse,  and 
was  soon  out  of  sight,  while  Richardson  sot  about  collecting  the 
trophies  of  his  singular  victory. 

He  caught  the  two  Indians'  horses ;  mounted  one,  and  loaded 
tho  other  with  the  meat  which  he  had  discarded,  and  returned  to 
his  camp  with  two  spare  rifles,  and  a  good  stock  of  ammunition. 

On  the  morning  of  tho  25th,  we  commenced  baling  up  our 
meat  in  buflhlo  skins  dried  for  the  purpose.  Each  bale  contains 
about  a  hundred  pounds,  of  which  a  mule  carries  two;  and  when 
we  had  finished,  our  twelve  long-cared  friends  were  loaded. 
Our  limited  term  of  absence  is  now  nearly  expired,  and  we  are 
anxious  to  return  to  the  fort  in  order  to  prepare  for  the  journey 
to  the  lower  country. 

At  about  10  o'clock,  we  left  our  pleasant  encampment,  and 
bade  adieu  to  tho  cold  spring,  tho  fat  buflalo,  and  grizzly  bears, 
and  urging  our  mules  into  their  fastest  walk,  wo  jolted  along 
with  our  provant  towards  the  fort. 


i/r- 


^^ 


ACR09I  ma  HOOKY  MovifTAint,  etc. 


I« 


In  about  nn  hour  after,  an  unplcaaant  accident  hopponnd  to 
ono  of  our  men,  named  McCorcy.  Ho  had  been  running  a 
buflalo,  and  was  alx)ut  reloading  the  gun,  which  ho  had  just 
discharged,  when  the  powder  in  hiH  horn  was  ignited  by  o  burn- 
ing wad  remaining  in  the  barrel ;  tho  horn  was  burst  to  frag- 
ments, tho  poor  man  dashed  from  his  horse,  nnd  his  face,  neck, 
and  hands,  burnt  in  a  shocking  manner.  Wo  applied,  imme- 
diately, tho  simple  remedies  which  our  situation  and  the  placo 
afforded,  and  in  tho  course  of  an  hour  ho  was  somewhat  relieved, 
and  travelled  on  with  us,  though  in  considerable  suffering.  His 
eyes  wore  entirely  closed,  the  lids  very  much  swollen,  and  his 
long,  flowing  hair,  patriarchal  beard  nnd  eye-brows,  had  all 
vanished  in  smoke.  It  will  bo  long  ero  ho  guts  another  such 
crop. 

The  weather  hero  is  generally  uncomfortably  warm,  so  much 
80,  that  wo  discard,  while  travelling,  all  such  encumbrances  as 
coats,  neckcloths,  &c.,  but  tho  nights  arc  excessively  cold,  ice 
often  forming  in  tho  camp  kettles,  of  tho  thickness  of  half  an 
inch,  or  more.  My  custom  has  generally  been  to  roll  myself  in 
my  blanket  at  night,  and  use  my  largo  coat  as  a  pillow;  but  hero 
the  coat  must  be  worn,  and  my  saddle  has  to  serve  the  purpose 
to  which  the  cont  is  usually  applied. 

Wo  travelled,  this  day,  thirty  miles,  and  the  next  afternoon, 
at  4  o'clock,  arrived  ot  the  fort.  On  tho  route  we  met  three 
hunters,  whom  Captain  W.  had  sent  to  kill  game  for  tho  camp. 
They  informed  us  that  all  hands  have  been  for  several  days  on 
short  allowance,  and  wore  very  anxious  for  our  return. 

When  we  came  in  sight  of  the  fort,  wc  gave  them  a  mountain 
salute,  each  man  firing  his  gun  in  quick  succession.  They  did 
not  expect  us  until  to-morrow,  and  the  firing  aroused  them 
instantly.  In  a  very  few  minutes,  a  score  of  men  were  armed 
and  mounted,  and  dashing  out  to  give  battle  to  the  advancing 
Indians,  as  they  thought  us.    The  general  supposition  was,  that 


104 


NARBATIVE   OF   A    JOURNEY 


their  little  hunting  party  had  been  attacked  by  a  band  of  roving 
Blackfeet,  and  they  made  themselves  ready  for  the  rescue  in  a 
space  of  time  that  did  them  great  credit. 

It  was  perhaps  "  bad  medicine"  (to  use  the  mountain  phrase,) 
to  fire  a  salute  at  all,  inasmuch  as  it  excited  some  unnecessary 
alarm,  but  it  had  the  good  effect  to  remind  them  thut  danger 
might  be  near  when  they  least  expected  it,  and  afforded  them  an 
opportunity  of  showing  the  promptness  and  alacrity  with  which 
they  could  meet  and  brave  it. 

Our  people  were  all  delighted  to  see  us  arrive,  and  I  could 
perceive  many  a  longing  and  eager  gaze  cast  upon  the  well 
filled  bales,  as  our  mules  swung  their  little  bodies  through  the 
camp.  My  companion,  Mr.  N.,  had  become  so  exceedingly  thin 
that  I  should  scarcely  have  known  him;  and  upon  my  expressing 
surprise  at  the  great  change  in  his  appearance,  he  heaved  a  sigh 
of  inanity,  and  remarked  that  I  "  would  have  been  as  thin  as  he 
if  I  had  lived  on  old  Ephraim  for  two  weeks,  and  short  allowance 
of  that."  I  found,  in  truth,  that  the  whole  camp  had  been  sub- 
sisting, during  our  absence,  on  little  else  than  two  or  three 
grizzly  bears  which  had  been  killed  in  the  neighborhood ;  and 
with  a  complacent  glance  at  my  own  rotund  and  cow-fed 
person,  I  wished  my  poor  friend  better  luck  for  the  future. 

We  found  Mr.  McKay's  company  encamped  on  the  bank  of 
the  river  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  our  tents.  It  consists  of 
thirty  men,  thirteen  of  whom  are  Indians,  Nez  Percys,  Chinooks 
and  Kayouse,  with  a  few  squaws.  The  remainder  are  French- 
Canadians,  and  half-breeds.  Their  lodges, — of  which  there  are 
several, — are  of  a  conical  form,  composed  of  ten  long  poles,  the 
lower  ends  of  which  are  pointed  and  driven  into  the  ground ;  the 
upper  blunt,  and  drawn  together  at  the  top  by  thongs.  Around 
these  poles,  several  dressed  buffalo  skins,  sewed  together,  are 
stretched,  a  hole  being  left  on  one  side  for  entrance. 

These  are  the  kind  of  lodges  universally  used  by  the  mountain 


AfiKOIS   TUB   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,   ETC. 


105 


Indians  while  travelling :  they  are  very  comfortable  and  com- 
modioui,  and  a  mquaw  accustomed  to  it,  will  erect  and  prepare 
one  for  the  reception  of  her  husband,  while  he  is  removing  the 
trapping,  from  his  horse.  I  have  seen  an  expert  Indian  woman 
stretch  a  lodge  in  half  the  time  that  was  required  by  four  white 
men  to  perform  tho  same  operation  with  another  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. 

At  tho  fort,  affairs  look  prosperous:  the  stockade  is  fin- 
ished ;  two  bastions  have  been  erected,  and  the  work  is  sin- 
gularly good,  considering  the  scorcity  of  proper  building  tools. 
Tho  house  will  now  soon  be  habitable,  and  the  structure 
can  then  bo  completed  at  leisure  by  men  who  will  be  left 
hero  in  charge,  wliilo  tho  party  travels  on  to  its  destination, 
the  Columbia. 

On  tho  evening  of  the  26th,  Captain  W.  Mr.  Nuttall  and 
myself  supped  with  Mr.  McKay  in  his  lodge.  I  am  much  pleased 
with  this  gentleman:  ho  unites  the  free,  frankand  open  manners  of 
the  mountain  man,  with  the  grace  and  affability  of  the  Frenchman. 
But  above  all,  I  admire  the  order,  decorum,  and  strict  subordina- 
tion which  exists  among  his  men,  so  different  from  what  I  have 
been  accustomed  to  see  in  parties  composed  of  Americans.  Mr. 
McKay  assures  mo  that  he  had  considerable  difficulty  in  bringing 
his  men  to  tho  state  in  which  they  now  are.  The  free  and  fear- 
less Indian  was  particularly  difficult  to  subdue;  but  steady, 
dotormined  porMOVcrancc,  and  bold  measures,  aided  by  a  rigid 
solf-oxampio,  made  them  as  clay  in  his  hand,  and  has  finally 
reduced  thorn  to  their  present  admirable  condition.  If  they 
misbohavo,  a  commensurate  punishment  is  sure  to  follow:  in 
extreme  cases,  flagellation  is  resorted  to,  but  it  is  inflicted  only 
by  tho  hand  of  tho  Captain ;  were  any  other  appointed  to  perform 
this  office  on  an  Indian,  the  indignity  would  be  deemed  so  great, 
that  nothing  less  than  the  blood  of  the  individual  could  appease 

the  wounded  feelings  of  tho  savngc. 

14 


106 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


After  supper  wus  concluded,  we  sat  ourselves  down  on  a 
buffalo  robe  at  the  entrance  of  the  lodge,  to  see  the  Indians  at 
their  devotions.  The  whole  thirteen  were  soon  collected  at  the 
call  of  one  whom  they  had  chosen  for  their  chief,  and  seated 
with  sober,  sedate  countenances  around  a  large  tire.  After 
remaining  in  perfect  silence  for  perhaps  fifteen  minutes,  the 
chief  commenced  an  harangue  in  a  solemn  and  impressive  tone, 
reminding  them  of  the  object  for  which  they  were  thus  assembled, 
that  of  worshipping  tlie  "  Great  Spirit  who  made  the  light  and 
the  darkness,  the  fire  and  the  water,"  and  assured  thern  that  if  they 
oflfered  up  their  prayers  to  him  with  but  "  one  tongue,"  they 
would  certainly  be  accepted.  He  then  rose  from  his  squatting 
position  to  his  knees,  and  his  example  was  followed  by  all  the 
others.  In  this  situation  he  commenced  a  prayer,  consisting  of 
short  sentences  uttered  rapidly  but  with  great  apparent  fervor,  his 
hands  clasped  upon  his  breast,  and  his  eyes  cast  upwards  with  a 
beseeching  look  towards  heaven.  At  the  conclusion  of  each 
sentence,  a  choral  response  of  a  few  words  was  made,  accom- 
panied frequently  by  low  moaning.  The  prayer  lasted  about 
twenty  minutes.  After  its  conclusion,  the  chief,  still  maintainin  g 
the  same  position  of  his  body  and  hands,  but  with  his  head  bent 
to  his  breast,  commenced  a  kind  of  psalm  or  sacred  song,  in 
which  the  whole  company  presently  joined.  The  song  was  a 
simple  expression  of  a  few  sounds,  no  intelligible  words  being 
uttered.  It  resembled  the  words,  Ho-ha-ho-ha-ho-hH-ha-S,  com- 
mencing in  a  low  tone,  and  gradually  swelling  to  a  full, 
round,  and  beautifully  modulated  chorus.  During  the  song,  the 
clasped  hands  of  the  worshippers  were  moved  rapidly  across  the 
breast,  and  their  bodies  swung  with  great  energy  to  the  time  of  the 
music.  The  chief  ended  the  song  that  he  had  commenced,  by  a 
kind  of  swelling  groan,  which  was  echoed  in  chorus.  It  was 
then  taken  up  by  another,  and   the  same  routine   was   gone 


ACROSS  Till!  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


107 


through.  The  whole  ceremony  occupied  perhaps  one  and  a  half 
hours  ;  a  short  silence  then  succeeded,  ader  which  each  Indian 
rose  from  ihe  ground,  and  disappeared  in  the  darlcngss  with  a  step 
noiseless  as  that  of  a  spectre. 

I  think  I  never  was  more  gratified  by  any  exhibition  in 
my  life.  The  humble,  subdued,  and  beseeching  looks  of 
the  poor  untutored  beings  who  were  calling  upon  their  hea- 
venly father  to  forgive  their  sins,  and  continue  his  mercies 
to  them,  and  the  evident  and  heart-felt  sincerity  which  cha- 
racterized the  whole  scene,  was  truly  affecting,  and  very  im- 
pressive. 

The  next  day,  being  the  Sabbath,  our  good  missionary,  Mr. 
Jason  Lee,  was  requested  to  hold  a  meeting,  with  which  he  oblig- 
ingly complied.  A  convenient,  shady  spot  was  selected  in  the 
forest  adjacent,  and  the  greater  part  of  our  men,  as  well  as  the 
whole  of  Mr.  McKay's  company,  including  the  Indians,  attended. 
The  usual  forms  of  the  Methodist  service,  (to  which  Mr.  L.  is 
attached,)  were  gone  through,  and  were  followed  by  a  brief,  but 
excellent  and  appropriate  exhortation  by  that  gentleman.  The 
people  were  remarkably  quiet  and  attentive,  and  the  Indians  sat 
upon  the  ground  like  statues.  Although  not  one  of  them  could 
understand  a  word  that  was  said,  they  nevertheless  maintained 
the  most  strict  and  decorous  silence,  kneeling  when  the  preacher 
kneeled,  and  rising  when  he  rose,  evidently  with  a  view  of  pay- 
ing him  and  us  a  suitable  respect,  however  much  their  own  no- 
tions as  to  the  proper  ind  most  acceptable  forms  of  worship, 
might  have  been  opposed  to  ours. 

A  meeting  for  worship  in  the  Rocky  mountains  is  almost  as 
unusual  as  the  appearance  of  a  herd  of  buffalo  in  the  settlements. 
A  sermon  was  perhaps  never  preached  here  before;  but  for  my- 
self, I  really  enjoyed  the  whole  scene ;  it  possessed  the  charm 


loe 


NARRATIVK   OF   A   JOURNEY    'H 


or  novelty,  to  say  nothing  of  tho  salutary  elTuct  which  I  sincerely 
hope  it  may  produce.  .    ■-    ■    :    a-     4.<>,.,-i 

Mr.  Leo  is  a  great  favorite  with  the  men,  deservedly  so,  and 
there  are  probably  few  persons  to  whoso  preaching  they  would 
have  listened  with  so  much  complaisance.  I  have  oAen  been 
amused  and  pleased  by  Mr.  L.'s  manner  of  reproving  them 
for  the  coarseness  and  profanity  of  expression  which  is  so  uni- 
versal amongst  them.  The  reproof,  although  decided,  clear,  and 
strong,  is  always  characterized  by  the  mildness  and  affectionate 
manner  peculiar  to  the  man ;  and  although  tho  good  effect  of  tho 
advice  may  not  be  discernible,  yet  it  is  always  treated  with  re- 
spect, and  its  utility  acknowledged.  , 

In  the  evening,  a  fatal  accident  happened  to  a  Canadian  be- 
longing to  Mr.  McKay's  party.  He  was  running  his  horse,  in 
company  with  another,  when  the  animals  were  met  in  full  career 
by  a  third  rider,  and  horses  and  men  were  thrown  with  great 
force  to  the  ground.  The  Canadian  was  taken  up  completely 
senseless,  and  brought  to  Mr.  McKay's  lodge,  where  we  were  all 
taking  supper.  I  perceived  at  once  that  there  was  little  chance 
of  his  life  being  saved.  He  had  received  an  injury  of  the 
head  which  had  evidently  caused  concussion  of  the  brain. 
He  was  bled  copiously,  and  various  local  remedies  were  ap- 
plied, but   without   success ;    the   poor   man  died  early  next 


monung. 


He  was  about  forty  years  of  age,  healthy,  active,  and 
shrewd,  and  very  much  valued  by  Mr.  McKay  as  a  leader 
in  his  absence,  and  as  an  interpreter  among  the  Indians  of  the 
Columbia. 

At  noon  the  body  was  interred.  It  was  wrapped  in  a  piece  of 
coarse  linen,  over  which  was  sewed  a  buffalo  robe.  The  spot  se- 
lected, was  about  a  hundred  yards  south  of  the  fort,  and  the 
funeral  was  attended  by  the  greater  part  of  the  men  of  both 
camps.     Mr.  Lee  ofHciated  in  performing  the  ordinary  church 


ACROSS   TIIK   ROCKV   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


les 


.ly 

nd 
lid 
en 
im 
li- 
Dd 
itc 
he 
■e- 


ceremony,  aflcr  which  a  hymn  for  the  repose  of  the  soul  of 
the  departed,  was  sung  by  the  Canadians  present.  The 
grave  is  surrounded  by  a  neat  palisade  of  willows,  with  a 
black  cross  erected  at  the  head,  on  which  is  carved  the  name 
"  Casseau." 


:■•■      :'  ■>■>    ' 


to- 
in 
er 
at 

\y 

u 

0 

le 
I. 

•- 
t 


•f 


no 


MARRATIVK   OF   A   JOUBNKY 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Departurt  of  Mr.  McKaxfs  party.  Captain  Stewart,  and  the  misitionariet — 
Debauch  at  the  fort — Departure  of  the  company— Poor  provision— Blacttfeet 
hunting  ground — ^  toilsome  journey,  and  sufferings  from  thirst — Goddin's 
creek — Antoine  Goddin,  the  trapper— Scarcity  of  game — A  buffalo — Bugged 
mountains — Comforting  rejections  of  the  traveller — More  game — Unusual 
economy — Habits  of  the  white  ivoy—"  Thomburg's  pass" — Diffcult  travel' 
ling — T%<  captain  in  jeopardy  among  the  snow— A  countermarch— Deserted 
Banneck  camp— Toilsome  and  dangerous  passage  of  the  mountain — Mallade 
river — Beaver  dams,  and  beaver — A  parly  (tf  Snake  Indians— Scarcity  of 
pasture — Another  Banneck  camp — "  Xamas  prairie" — Indian  mode  of  pre- 
paring the  kamas—Rat'.ne  blanc,  or  biscxnt  root — Travelling  over  the  hills — 
Loss  of  horses  by  fatigue — Boisie  or  Big-wood  river — Salmon — Choke-clier- 
ries,  £j)c. 

On  the  30th  of  July,  Mr.  McKay  and  his  party  left  us  for 
Fort  Vancouver,  Captain  Stewart  and  ourbandofmisionarics  ac- 
companying them.  The  object  of  the  latter  in  leaving  us,  is, 
that  they  may  have  an  opportunity  of  travelling  more  slowly 
than  we  should  do,  on  account,  and  for  the  benefit  of  the  horned 
cattle  which  they  are  driving  to  the  lower  country.  Wc  feel 
quite  sad  in  the  prospect  of  parting  from  those  with  whom  we 
have  endured  some  toil  and  danger,  and  who  have  been  to  some 
of  us  as  brothers,  throughout  our  tedious  journey ;  but,  if  no 
unforeseen  accident  occurs,  we  hope  to  meet  them  all  again  at 
Walla- Walla,  the  upper  fort  on  the  Columbia.  As  the  party 
rode  off,  we  fired  three  rounds,  which  were  promptly  answered, 
and  three  times  three  cheers  wished  the  travellers  success. 

August  5th. — At  sunrise  this  morning,  the  "  star-spangled 
banner"  was  raised  on  the  flag-staff  at  the  fort,  and  a  salute 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOVNTAIIfS,  ETC. 


fired  by  the  men,  who,  according  to  orders,  assembled  around  it. 
All  in  camp  were  then  allowed  the  free  and  uncontrolled  use  of 
liquor,  and,  as  usual,  the  consequence  was  a  scene  of  rioting, 
noise,  and  fighting,  during  the  wholo  day ;  some  became  so 
drunk  that  their  senses  fled  them  entirely,  and  they  were  there* 
fore  harmless ;  but  by  far  the  greater  number  were  just  suf1i« 
ciently  under  the  influence  of  the  vile  trash,  to  render  them  in 
their  conduct  disgusting  and  tiger-like.  We  had  "gouging," 
biting,  fisticuffmg,  and  "  stamping"  in  the  most  "  scientific"  per- 
fection ;  some  even  fired  guns  and  pistols  at  each  other,  but 
these  weapons  were  mostly  harmless  in  the  unsteady  hands 
which  employed  them.  Such  scenes  I  hope  never  to  witness 
again ;  they  arc  absolutely  sickening,  and  cause  us  to  look  upon 
our  species  with  abhorrence  and  loathing.  Night  at  last  came, 
and  cast  her  mantle  over  our  besotted  camp ;  the  revel  was  over, 
and  the  men  retired  to  their  pallets  peaceably,  but  not  a  few  of 
them  will  bear  palpable  evidence  of  the  debauch  of  the  5th  of 
August. 

The  next  morning  we  commenced  packing,  and  at  1 1  oVIock 
bade  adieu  to  "  Fort  Hall."  Our  company  now  consists  of  but 
thirty  men,  several  Indian  women,  and  one  hundred  and  sixteen 
horses.  We  crossed  the  main  Snake,  or  Shoshone  river,  at  a 
point  about  three  miles  from  the  fort.  It  is  here  as  wide  as  the 
Missouri  at  Independence,  but,  beyond  comparison,  clearer  and 
more  beautiful. 

Immediately  on  crossing  the  river,  we  entered  tipon  a  wide, 
snndy  plain,  thickly  covered  with  wormwood,  and  early  in  the 
aflernoon,  encamped  at  the  head  of  a  delightful  spring,  about  ten 
miles  from  our  starting  place. 

On  the  route,  our  hunters  killed  a  young  grizzly  bear,  which, 
with  a  few  grouse,  made  us  an  excellent  dinner.  Fresh  meat  is 
now  very  grateful  to  our  palates,  as  we  have  been  living  for 
weeks  past  on  nothing  but  poor,  dried  buffalo,  the  better,  and 


113 


NABRATIVE   OF  A  JOrRNRT 


far  the  larger  part,  having  been  deposited  in  the  fort  for  the 
subsistence  of  the  men  who  remain.  We  have  no  flour,  nor 
vegetables  of  any  kind,  and  our  meat  may  be  aptly  compared  to 
dry  chips,  breaking  short  ofl^  in  our  fingers;  and  when  boiled  to 
Boden  it  a  little,  and  render  it  fit  for  mastication,  not  a  star 
appears  in  the  pot.  It  seems  astonishing  that  life  can  be  sus- 
tained upon  such  miserable  fare,  and  yet  our  men  (except 
when  under  the  influence  of  liquor)  have  never  murmered, 
but  have  always  eaten  their  crusty  meal,  and  drunk  their 
cold  water  with  light  and  excellent  spirits.  We  hope  soon 
to  fall  in  with  the  buffalo,  and  we  shall  then  endeavor  to 
prepare  some  good  provision  to  serve  until  we  reach  the 
salmon  region. 

We  shall  now,  for  about  ten  days,  be  travelling  through  the 
most  dangerous  country  west  of  the  mountains,  the  regular 
hunting  ground  of  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who  are  said  to  be 
oflen  seen  here  in  parties  of  hundreds,  or  even  thousands,  scour- 
ing the  plains  in  pursuit  of  the  buffalo.  Traders,  therefore, 
seldom  travel  this  route  without  meeting  them,  and  being  com- 
pelled to  prove  their  valor  upon  them ;  the  white  men  are,  how- 
ever, generally  the  victors,  although  their  numbers  are  always 
vastly  inferior. 

7th. — We  were  moving  this  morning  with  the  dawn,  and 
travelled  steadily  the  whole  day,  over  one  of  the  most  arid 
plains  we  have  seen,  covered  thickly  with  jagged  masses  of  lava, 
and  twisted  wormwood  bushes.  Both  horses  and  men  were 
jaded  to  the  last  degree ;  the  former  from  the  rough,  and  at  times 
almost  impassable  nature  of  the  track,  and  the  latter  from  ex- 
cessive heat  and  parching  thirst.  We  saw  not  a  drop  of  water 
during  the  day,  and  our  only  food  was  the  dried  meat  before 
spoken  of,  which  we  carried,  and  chewed  like  biscuits  as  we 
travelled.  There  are  two  reasons  by  which  the  extreme  thirst 
which  the  way-farcr  suffers  in  these  regions,  may  be  accounted 


ACBOSS  THE  BOOKY   MOUNTAINS,  BTO. 


113 


for;  first,  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun  upon  the  open  and  exposed 
plains ;  and  secondly,  the  desiccation  to  which  every  thing  here 
is  subject.  The  air  feels  like  the  breath  of  a  sirocco,  the  tongue 
becomes  parched  and  horny,  and  the  mouth,  nose,  and  eyes  are 
incessantly  assailed  by  the  fine  pulverized  lava,  which  rises 
from  the  ground  with  the  least  breath  of  air.  Bullets,  pebbles  of 
chalcedony,  and  pieces  of  smooth  obsidian,  were  in  great  requisi- 
tion to-day ;  almost  every  man  was  mumbling  some  of  these 
substances,  in  an  endeavor  to  assuage  his  burning  thirst.  The 
camp  trailed  along  in  a  lagging  and  desponding  line  over  the 
plain  for  a  mile  or  more,  the  poor  horses  heads  hanging  low, 
their  tongues  protruding  to  their  utmost  extent,  and  their  riders 
scarcely  less  drooping  and  spiritless.  We  were  a  sad  and  most 
forlorn  looking  company,  certainly ;  not  a  man  of  us  had  any 
thing  to  say,  and  none  cared  to  be  interrupted  in  his  blissful 
dream  of  cool  rivers  and  streams.  Occasionally  we  would  pass 
a  ravine  or  gorge  in  the  hills,  by  which  one  side  of  the  plain  was 
bounded,  and  up  this  some  of  the  men  would  steer,  leaping  over 
blocks  of  lava,  and  breaking  a  path  through  the  dense  bushes ; 
but  the  poor  searcher  soon  returned,  disheartened  and  wo-begone, 
and  those  who  had  waited  anxiously  to  hear  his  cheering  call, 
announcing  success,  passed  onward  without  a  word.  One  of  our 
men,  a  mulatto,  afler  failing  in  a  forage  of  this  sort,  cast  himself 
resolutely  from  his  horse  to  the  ground,  and  declared  that  he 
would  lie  there  till  he  died ;  "  there  was  no  water  in  the  cursed 
country,  and  he  might  as  well  die  here  as  go  farther."  Some 
of  us  tried  to  infuse  a  little  courage  into  him,  but  it  proved  of  no 
avail,  and  each  was  too  much  occupied  with  his  own  particular 
grief  to  use  his  tongue  much  in  persuasion;  so  we  left  him  to 
his  fate. 

Soon  after  night-fall,  some  signs  of  water  were  seen  in  a  small 
valley  to  our  left,  and,  upon  ascending  it,  the  foremost  of  the 
party  found  a  delightful  little  cold  spring ;  but  they  soon  exhausted 


114 


NARRATIVE   OF  A  JOVRNBY 


it,  and  thon  commenced,  with  axes  and  knives,  to  dig  it  out  and 
enlarge  it.  By  the  time  that  Mr.  N.,  and  myself  arrived,  they 
had  excavated  a  largo  space  which  was  filled  to  overflowing  with 
muddy  water.  We  did  not  wait  for  it  to  settle,  however,  but 
throwing  ourselves  flat  upon  the  ground,  drank  until  we  were 
ready  to  burst.  The  talcs  which  I  had  read  of  suffering  travellers 
in  the  Arabian  deserts,  then  recurred  with  some  force  to  my  re- 
collection, and  I  thought  I  could, — though  in  a  very  small 
measure, — appreciate  their  sufferings  by  deprivation,  and  their 
unmingled  delight  and  satisfaction  in  the  opportunity  of  assuaging 
them. 

Poor  Jim,  the  mulatto  man,  was  found  by  one  of  the  people, 
who  went  back  in  search  of  him,  lying  where  he  had  first  fallen, 
and  either  in  a  real  or  pretended  swoon,  still  obstinate  about 
dying,  and  scarcely  heeding  the  assurances  of  the  other  that 
water  was  within  a  mile  of  him.  He  was,  however,  at  length 
dragged  and  carried  into  camp,  and  soused  head  foremost  into 
the  mud  puddle,  where  he  guzzled  and  guzzled  until  his  eyes 
seemed  ready  to  burst  from  his  head,  and  he  was  lifled  out  and 
laid  dripping  and  flaccid  upon  the  ground. 

The  next  morning  we  made  an  early  start  towards  a  range  of 
willows  which  we  could  distinctly  see,  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles,  and  which  we  knew  indicated  Goddin's  creek,  so 
called  from  a  Canadian  of  that  name  who  was  killed  in  this 
vicinity  by  the  Blackfcet.  Goddin's  son,  a  half-breed,  is  now 
with  us  as  a  trapper ;  he  is  a  fine  sturdy  fellow,  and  of  such 
strength  of  limb  and  wind,  that  he  is  said  to  be  able  to  run  down 
a  buffalo  on  foot,  and  kill  him  with  arrows. 

Goddin's  creek  was  at  length  gained,  and  after  travelling  a  few 
miles  along  its  bank  we  encamped  in  some  excellent  pasture. 
Our  poor  horses  seemed  inclined  to  make  up  for  lost  time  here, 
as  yesterday  their  only  food  was  the  straggling  blades  of  a  little 


ACROM  TUB  KOCKY  MOUNTAIN*,  ETC. 


115 


dry  and  puruhed  grau  growing  among  the  wormwood  on  tlio 
hilU. 

Wo  havo  boon  considerably  disappointed  in  not  seeing  any 
buflttio  tO'day,  and  tlicir  absence  here  has  occasioned  somo  foar 
that  wo  may  not  moot  with  them  on  our  route.  Sliould  thin  bo 
the  case,  wc  ahull  have  to  depend  upon  such  small  gamr, 
hares,  grouse,  dec,  as  may  happen  to  lie  in  our  path.  In  a  short 
time,  however,  even  this  resource  will  fail ;  and  if  wo  do  not 
happen  to  see  Indians  on  tho  upper  waters  of  tho  Columbia,  from 
whom  wo  can  purchoso  dried  salmon,  we  shall  be  under  tho 
necessity  of  killing  our  horses  for  food. 

We  perhaps  derive  one  advantage,  however,  from  tho  absence 
of  game  hero,— that  of  there  being  less  probability  of  lurking 
Black  feet  in  tho  vicinity ;  but  this  circumstance,  convenient  as  it 
is,  does  not  compensate  for  empty  stomachs,  and  I  believe  tho  men 
would  rather  fight  for  tho  privilege  of  obtaining  food,  than  live 
without  it. 

Tho  next  morning  we  left  Goddin's  creek,  and  travelled 
for  ton  miles  over  a  plain,  covered  as  usual  with  wormwood  bushes 
ond  lavo.  Early  in  tho  day,  the  welcome  cry  of  "o  bufTulol 
a  buffalo  I"  was  hoard  from  the  head  of  the  company,  and  was 
echoed  joyfully  along  the  whole  line.  At  the  moment,  a  fine 
largo  bull  was  soon  to  bound  from  the  bushes  in  our  front,  and 
tear  off  with  all  his  speed  over  the  plain.  Several  hunters  gave 
him  chase  immediately,  and  in  a  few  minutes  wo  heard  tho  guns 
that  proclaimed  his  death.  The  killing  of  this  animal  is  a  most 
fortunate  circumstance  for  us  :  his  meat  will  probably  sustain  us 
for  three  or  four  days,  and  by  that  titne  we  are  sanguine  of  pro- 
curing other  provision.  The  appearance  of  this  buffalo  iH  not 
considered  indicative  of  tho  vicinity  of  others :  he  is  probably  a 
strogglor  from  a  trovclling  band,  and  has  been  unable  to  proceed 
with  it,  in  consoquonco  of  sickness  or  wounds. 


116 


NARBATIVK  OF   A   JOVMNSY 


On  leaving  the  plain  this  morning,  wo  struck  into  a  defile 
between  some  of  the  highcut  mountains  wo  have  yet  aeon.  In  a 
short  time  wo  commenced  ascending,  and  continued  passing  over 
them,  until  late  in  the  oilernoon,  when  we  reached  a  plain  about 
a  mile  in  width,  covered  with  excellent  grass,  and  a  delightful 
cool  stream  flowing  through  the  middle  of  it.  Hero  we  encamped, 
having  travelled  twcnty-seven  miles. 

Our  journey,  to-day,  has  been  particularly  laborious.  We 
were  engaged  for  several  hours,  constantly  in  ascending  and 
descending  enormous  rocky  hills,  with  scarcely  the  sign  of  a 
valley  between  them ;  and  some  of  them  so  steep,  that  our  horses 
were  frequently  in  great  danger  of  falling,  by  making  a  mis-stcp 
on  tho  loose,  rolling  stones.  I  thought  tho  Black  Hills,  on  the 
Platte,  rugged  and  difficult  of  passage,  but  they  sink  into  insigni- 
ficance when  compared  with  these. 

We  observed,  on  these  mountains,  large  masses  of  greenstone, 
and  beautiful  pebbles  of  chalcedony  and  fine  agate;  the  summits  of 
the  highest  are  covered  with  snow.  In  tho  mountain  passes,  we 
found  an  abundance  of  large,  yellow  currants,  rather  acid,  but 
exceedingly  palatable  to  men  who  have  been  long  living  on  ani- 
mal food  exclusively.  We  all  ate  heartily  of  them;  indeed, 
some  of  our  people  became  so  much  attached  to  the  bushes,  that 
we  had  considerable  difficulty  to  induce  them  to  travel  again. 

10/A. — We  commenced  our  march  at  seven  this  morning,  pro- 
ceeding up  a  narrow  valley,  bordering  our  encampment  in  a 
north-easterly  direction.  The  ravine  soon  widened,  until  it 
became  a  broad,  level  plain,  covered  by  the  eternal  "sage" 
bushes,  but  was  much  less  stony  than  usual.  About  mid-day, 
we  left  the  plain,  and  shaped  our  course  over  a  spur  of  one  of 
the  large  mountains ;  then  taking  a  ravine,  in  about  an  hour  we 
came  to  the  level  land,  and  struck  Goddin's  creek  again,  late  in 
the  afternoon. 

Our  provision  was  all  exhausted  at  breakfast,  this  morning, 


i 


AL'ROH   THB   ROOKY    MOCHTAIWI,  PTC. 


117 


It 


(most  of  our  bull  meat  havin  '  lxK!n  given  lu  n  band  of  ton  trap- 
IHjrs,  who  left  ua  yesterday,)  wo  bad  swn  no  game  on  our  route, 
and  wo  wore  therefore  preparing  ourNcivos  to  retire  svippcrlcss  to 
our  pallets,  when  Richardson  and  Sansbury  were  descried  ap< 
proaching  the  camp,  and,  to  our  great  comfort,  wo  observed  that 
thoy  had  meat  on  their  saddles.  When  they  arrived,  however, 
wo  wore  somewhat  disappointed  to  find  that  they  had  only  killed 
a  calf,  but  they  had  brought  the  entire  little  animal  with  them, 
tho  time  for  picking  and  choosing  of  choice  pieces  having  passed 
with  us ;  and  after  making  a  hearty  meal,  wo  wrapped  ourselves 
in  our  blankets  and  slept  soundly.  Although  but  a  scant  break- 
fast  was  left  for  us  in  tho  morning,  and  wo  knew  not  if  any 
dinner  would  fall  in  our  way,  yet  "  none  of  these  things  moved 
us ;"  we  lived  altogether  upon  tho  present,  and  heeded  not  tho 
future.  We  had  always  been  provided  for;  often,  when  we 
had  despaired  of  procuring  sustenance,  and  when  tho  pangs  of 
hunger  had  soured  our  temper,  and  made  us  quarrelsome,  when 
we  thought  thero  was  no  pros[)oct  before  us  but  to  sacrifice  our 
valuable  horses,  or  dio  of  starvation,  have  tho  means  been  pro- 
vided for  our  relief.  A  buffalo,  an  elk,  or  an  antelope,  has 
appeared  like  the  goat  provided  for  tho  faithful  Abraham,  to  save 
a  moro  valuable  life,  and  I  hope  that  some  of  us  have  been 
willing,  reverently  to  acknowledge  from  whom  these  benefits  and 
blessings  have  been  received. 

On  the  day  following,  Richardson  killed  two  buffalo,  and 
brought  his  horse  heavily  laden  with  meat  to  the  camp.  Our 
good  hunter  walked  himself,  that  the  animal  might  be  able  to 
bear  the  greater  burthen.  After  depositing  tho  meat  in  the 
camp,  ho  took  a  fresh  horse,  and  accompanied  by  three  men, 
returned  to  the  spot  where  the  game  had  been  killed,  (about  four 
miles  distant,)  and  in  the  evening,  brought  in  every  pound  of  it, 
leaving  only  the  heavier  bones.  The  wolves  will  be  disappointed 
this  evening ;  they  are  accustomed  to  dainty  picking  when  they 


•  s 


118 


NARRATIVE    OF   A   JOURNEY 


glean  aflcr  the  hunters,  but  we  have  now  abandoned  the  "  wasty 
ways"  wliich  so  disgraced  us  when  game  was  abundant ;  the 
despised  leg  bone,  which  was  wont  to  be  thrown  aside  with  such 
contempt,  is  now  polished  of  every  tendon  of  its  covering,  and 
the  savory  hump  is  used  as  a  kmd  of  dessert  ader  a  meal  of 
coarser  meat. 

Speaking  of  wolves,  I  have  oden  been  surprised  at  the  perse- 
verance and  tenacity  with  which  these  animals  will  sometimes 
follow  the  hunter  for  a  whole  day,  to  feed  upon  the  carcass  he 
may  leave  behind  him.  When  an  animal  is  killed,  they  seem  to 
mark  the  operation,  and  stand  still  at  a  most  respectful  distance, 
with  drooping  tail  and  cars,  as  though  perfectly  indifferent  to 
the  matter  in  progress.  Thus  will  they  stand  until  the  game  is 
butchered,  the  meat  placed  upon  the  saddle,  and  the  hunter  is 
mounted  and  on  his  way ;  then,  if  he  glances  behind  him,  he 
will  see  the  wily  forager  stealthily  crawling  and  prowling  along 
towards  the  smoking  remains,  and  pouncing  upon  it,  and  tearing 
it  with  tooth  and  nail,  immediately  as  he  gets  out  of  reach. 

During  the  day,  the  wolves  are  shy,  and  rarely  permit  an 
approach  to  within  gun-shot;  but  at  night,  (where  game  is  abun- 
dant,) they  arc  so  fearless  as  to  come  quite  within  the  purlieus 
of  the  camp,  and  there  sit,  a  dozen  together,  and  howl  hideously 
for  hours.  This  kind  of  serenading,  it  may  be  supposed,  is  not 
the  most  agreeable;  and  many  a  time,  when  on  guard,  have  I 
observed  the  unquiet  tossing  of  the  bundles  of  blankets  near  me, 
and  heard  issue  from  them,  the  low,  husky  voice  of  some  dis- 
turbed sleeper,  denouncing  heavy  anathemas  on  the  unseasonable 
music. 

\2tk. — We  shaped  onr  course,  this  morning,  towards  what 
appeared  to  us  a  gap  in  a  high  and  rugged  mountain,  about 
twenty  miles  ahead.  After  proceeding  eight  or  ten  miles,  the 
character  of  the  country  underwent  a  remarkable  and  sudden 
change.     Instead  of  the  luxuriant  sage  bushes,  by  which  the 


ACROSS   TUE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


119 


whole  plains  have  hitherto  been  covered,  and  the  compact  and 
donna  growth  of  willows  which  has  uniformly  fringed  every 
stream  and  rivulet,  the  ground  was  completely  denuded ;  not  a 
single  shrub  was  to  be  seen,  nor  the  smallest  appearance  of  vege- 
tation, except  in  small  patches  near  the  water.  The  mountains, 
also,  which  had  generally  been  rocky,  and  covered  with  low, 
tangled  bushes,  here  abound  in  beautiful  and  shapely  pine  trees. 
Homo  of  the  higher  peaks  are,  however,  completely  bare,  and 
capped  with  enormous  masses  of  snow. 

After  wo  had  travelled  about  twelve  miles,  we  entered  a  defile 
between  the  mountains,  about  five  hundred  yards  wide,  covered, 
like  the  surrounding  country,  with  pines  ;  and,  as  we  proceeded, 
the  timber  grew  so  closely,  added  to  a  thick  undergrowth  of 
bimhes,  that  it  appeared  almost  impossible  to  proceed  with  our 
horses.  The  farther  we  advanced,  the  more  our  difficulties 
icomcd  to  increase;  obstacles  of  various  kinds  impeded  our 
progress ;— fallen  trees,  their  branches  tangled  and  matted  toge- 
ther, large  rocks  and  deep  ravines,  '  oles  in  the  ground,  into 
which  our  animals  would  be  precipitated  without  the  possibility 
of  avoiding  them,  and  an  hundred  other  difficulties,  which  beggar 
description. 

Wo  travelled  for  six  miles  through  such  a  region  as  I  have 
attempted  to  describe,  and  at  2  o'clock  encamped  in  a  cloar  spot 
of  ground,  where  we  found  excellent  grass,  and  a  cold,  rapid 
stream.  Soon  after  we  stopped,  Captain  W.  and  Richardson  left 
UN,  to  look  for  a  pass  through  the  mountains,  or  for  a  spot  where 
it  would  be  possible  to  cross  them.  Strange  as  it  may  appear, 
yet  in  this  desolate  and  almost  impassable  region  we  have  ob- 
served, to-day,  the  tracks  of  a  buffalo  which  must  have  passed 
hero  last  night,  or  this  morning ;  at  least  so  our  hunters  say,  and 
they  are  rarely  deceived  in  such  matters. 

Captain  W.  and  Richardson  returned  early  next  morning,  with 
tho  mortifying  intelligence  that  no  practicable  pass  through  the 


ir  9 


130 


NABRATIVE    OF   A    JOURNEY 


il 


mountain  could  be  found.  They  ascended  to  the  very  summit 
of  one  of  the  highest  peaks,  above  the  snow  and  the  reach  of  ve- 
getation, and  the  only  prospect  which  they  had  beyond,  was  a 
confused  mass  of  liugc  angular  rocks,  over  which  even  a  wild  goat 
could  scarcely  have  made  his  way.  Although  they  utterly  failed  in 
the  object  of  their  exploration,  yet  they  were  so  fortunate  as  to 
kill  a  buffalo,  {the  buffalo,)  the  meat  of  which  they  brought  on 
their  horses. 

Wyeth  told  us  of  a  narrow  escape  he  had  while  travelling  on 
foot  near  the  summit  of  one  of  the  peaks.  He  was  walking  on  a 
ridge  which  sloped  from  the  top  at  an  angle  of  about  forty  de- 
grees, and  terminated,  at  its  lower  part,  in  a  perpendicular  preci- 
pice of  a  thousand  or  twelve  hundred  feet.  He  was  moving 
along  in  the  snow  cautiously,  near  the  lower  edge,  in  order  to 
attain  a  more  level  spot  beyond,  when  his  feet  slipped  and  he 
fell.  Before  he  could  attempt  to  fix  himself  firmly,  he  slid  down 
the  declivity  till  within  a  few  feet  of  the  frightful  precipice.  At 
the  instant  of  his  fall,  he  had  the  presence  of  mind  to  plant  the 
rifle  which  he  held  in  one  hand,  and  his  knife  which  he  drew 
from  the  scabbard  with  the  other,  into  the  snow,  and  as  he  almost 
tottered  on  the  verge,  he  succeeded  in  checking  himself,  and  hold- 
ing his  body  perfectly  still.  He  then  gradually  moved,  first  the 
rifle  and  then  the  knife,  backward  up  the  slanting  hill  behind  him, 
and  fixing  them  firmly,  drew  up  his  body  parallel  to  them.  In 
this  way  he  moved  slowly  and  surely  until  he  had  gained  his 
former  station,  when,  without  further  difficulty,  he  succeeded  in 
reaching  the  more  level  land. 

After  a  good  breakfast,  we  packed  our  horses,  and  struck  back 
on  our  trail  of  yesterday,  in  order  to  try  another  valley  which 
we  observed  bearing  parallel  with  this,  at  about  three  miles  dis- 
tant, and  which  we  conclude  must  of  course  furnish  a  pass 
through  the  mountain.  Although  our  difficulties  in  returning  by 
the  same  wretched  route  were  very  considerable,  yet  they  were 


f 


ACROSS   "^HE   BOCKV    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


131 


somewhat  diminished  by  the  road  having  been  partially  broken, 
and  we  were  enabled  also  to  avoid  many  of  the  sloughs  and  pit- 
falls which  had  before  so  much  incommoded  us.  We  have 
named  this  rugged  valley,  " Thornburg's  'pass"  after  one  of  our 
men  of  this  name,  (a  tailor,)  whom  we  have  to  thank  for  leading 
us  into  all  these  troubles.  Thornburg  crossed  this  mountain  two 
years  ago,  and  might  therefore  be  expected  to  know  something 
of  the  route,  and  as  he  was  the  only  man  in  the  company  who 
had  been  here,  Captain  W.  acted  by  his  advice,  in  opposition  to 
his  own  judgment,  which  had  suggested  the  other  valley  as  af- 
fording a  more  probable  chance  of  success.  As  we  are  probably 
the  only  white  men  who  have  ever  penetrated  into  this  most  vile 
and  abominable  region,  we  conclude  that  the  name  we  have  given 
it  must  stand,  from  priority. 

In  the  bushes,  along  the  stream  in  this  valley,  the  black-tailed 
deer  {Cercus  macrourus)  is  abundant.  The  beautiful  creatures 
frequently  bounded  from  their  cover  within  a  few  yards  of  us, 
and  trotted  on  before  us  like  domestic  animals ;  "  they  arc  so  un- 
acquainted with  man"  and  his  cruel  arts,  that  they  seem  not  to 
fear  him. 

We  at  length  arrived  on  the  open  plain  again,  and  in  our  route 
towards  the  other  valley,  we  came  to  a  large,  recent  Indian 
encampment,  probably  of  Bannecks,*  who  are  travelling  down  to 


*  We  afterwards  learned,  that  only  three  days  before  our  arriTal,  a  hard  con- 
tested, and  moat  sanguinary  battle,  had  been  fought  on  this  spot,  between  the 
Bannecks  and  Blackfeet,  in  which  the  former  gained  a  signal  and  most  complete 
victory,  killing  upwards  of  forty  of  their  adversaries,  and  taking  about  three  dozen 
scalps.  The  Blackfeet,  although  much  the  larger  party,  were  on  foot,  but  the 
Bannecks,  being  all  well  mounted,  had  a  very  decided  advantage;  and  the  contest 
occurring  on  an  open  plain,  where  there  was  no  chance  of  cover,  the  Blackfeet 
were  run  down  with  horses,  and,  without  being  able  to  load  their  guns,  were 
trampled  to  death,  or  killed  with  sulinon  spears  and  axes. 

This  was  not  the  first  lime  that  we  narrowly  escaped  a  contest  with  this  savage 

16 


I  i;  f 

m 


122 


NARRATIVE   OF   A  JOURNEY 


the  fisheries  on  Snake  river.  We  here  took  their  trail  which  led 
up  the  valley  to  which  we  had  been  steering.  The  entrance  was 
very  similar  in  appearance  to  that  of  Thornburg's  pass,  and  it  is 
not  therefore  very  surprising  that  our  guide  should  have  been  de- 
ceived. We  travelled  rapidly  along  the  level  land  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain,  for  about  three  miles ;  we  then  began  to  ascend, 
and  our  progress  was  necessarily  slow  and  tedious.  The  com- 
mencement of  the  Alpine  path  was,  however,  far  better  than  wo 
had  expected,  and  we  entertained  the  hope  that  the  passage  could 
be  made  without  difficulty  or  much  toil,  but  the  farther  we  pro- 
gressed, the  more  laborious  the  travelling  became.  Sometimes  we 
mounted  steep  banks  of  intermingled  flinty  rock,  and  friable  slate, 
where  our  horses  could  scarcely  obtain  a  footing,  frequently  sliding 
down  several  feet  on  the  loose,  broken  stones : — again  we  passed 
along  the  extreme  verge  of  tremendous  precipices  at  a  giddy  height, 
whereat  almost  every  step  the  stones  and  earth  would  roll  from 
under  our  horses'  feet,  and  we  could  hear  them  strike  with  a  dull, 
leaden  sound  on  the  craggy  rucks  below.  The  whole  journey, 
to-day,  from  the  time  we  arrived  at  the  heights,  until  we  had 
crossed  the  mountain,  has  been  a  most  fearful  one.  For  myself, 
I  might  have  diminished  the  danger  very  considerably,  by  adopt- 
ing the  plan  pursued  by  the  rest  of  the  company,  that  of  we'king, 
and  leading  my  horse  over  the  most  dangerous  places,  but  I  have 
been  suffering  for  several  days  with  a  lame  foot,  and  am  wholly 
incapable  of  such  exertion.  I  soon  discovered  that  an  attempt  to 
guide  my  horse  over  the  most  rugged  and  steepest  ranges  was 
worse  than  useless,  so  I  dropped  the  rein  upon  the  animal's  neck, 
and  allowed  him  to  take  his  own  course,  closing  my  eyes,  and 
keeping  as  quiet  as  possible  in  the  saddle.    But  I  could  not  for- 


nnd  most  dreaded  tribe.  If  wc  had  (msscd  there  but  a  few  days  earlier,  there  is 
every  probability  to  suppose  that  we  should  have  been  attacked,  as  our  party  at 
that  time  cousisted  of  but  twenty-six  men. 


ACnOSS  THE  ROCKY  MOVNTAINS,  ETC. 


123 


IS 

ut 


bear  starting  occasionally,  when  the  feet  of  my  horse  would  slip 
on  a  stone,  and  one  side  of  him  would  slide  rapidly  towards 
the  edge  of  the  precipice,  but  I  always  recovered  myself  by  a 
desperate  effort,  and  it  was  fortunate  for  me  that  I  did  so. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  completed  the  passage  across  the 
mountain,  and  with  thankful  hearts,  again  trod  the  level  land. 
We  entered  here  a  fine  rich  valley  or  plain,  of  about  half  a  mile 
in  width,  between  two  ranges  of  the  mountain.  It  was  profusely 
covered  with  willow,  and  through  the  middle  of  it,  ran  a  rapid 
and  turbulent  mountain  torrent,  called  Malladc  river.  It  contains 
a  great  abundance  of  beaver,  their  recent  dams  being  seen  in 
great  numbers,  and  in  the  night,  when  all  was  quiet,  we  could 
hear  the  playful  animals  at  their  gambols,  diving  from  the  shore 
into  the  water,  and  striking  the  surface  with  their  broad  tails. 
The  sound,  altogether,  was  not  unlike  that  of  children  at  play, 
and  the  animated  description  of  a  somewhat  similar  scene,  in  the 
"  Mohicans,"  recurred  to  my  recollection,  where  the  single-minded 
Gamut  is  contemplating  with  feelings  of  strong  reprobation,  the 
wayward  freaks  of  what  he  supposes  to  be  a  bevy  of  young 
savages. 

lAth.—We  travelled  down  Mallade  river,  and  followed  the 
Indian  trail  through  the  valley.  The  path  frequently  passed 
along  near  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  then  wound  its  way  a 
considerable  distance  up  it,  to  avoid  rocky  impediments  and  thick 
tangled  bushes  below,  so  that  we  had  some  climbing  to  do ;  but 
the  difficulties  and  perils  of  the  route  of  yesterday  are  still  so  fresh 
in  our  memory,  that  all  minor  things  are  disregarded,  at  least  by 
us.  Our  poor  horses,  however,  no  doubt  feel  differently,  as  they 
are  very  tired  and  foot  sore. 

The  next  day  we  came  to  a  close  and  almost  impenetrable 
thicket  of  tangled  willows,  through  which  we  had  great  diffi- 
culty in  urging  our  horses.    The  breadth  of  the  thicket  was 


-;!! 


124 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


about  one  hundred  yards,  and  a  full  hour  was  consumed  in  pass- 
ing through  it.  We  then  entered  immediately  a  rich  and  beauti- 
ful valley,  covered  profusely  with  a  splendid  blue  Lupin.  The 
mountains  on  either  side  are  of  much  less  height  than  those  wo 
have  passed,  and  entirely  bare,  the  pine  trees  which  generally 
cover  and  ornament  them,  having  disappeared.  During  the 
morning,  we  ascended  and  descended  several  high  and  stony 
hills,  and  early  in  the  afternoon,  emerged  upon  a  large,  level 
prairie,  and  struck  a  branch  of  Mallade  river,  where  wc  en- 
camped.      •  . 

While  we  were  unloading,  we  observed  a  number  of  Indians 
ahead,  and  not  being  aware  of  their  character,  stood  with  our 
horses  saddled,  while  Captain  W.  and  Richardson  rode  out  to  re- 
connoitre. In  about  half  an  hour  they  returned,  and  informed 
us  that  they  were  Snakes  who  were  returning  from  the  fisheries, 
and  travelling  towards  the  buffalo  on  the  "  big  river,"  (Shoshon^.) 
We  therefore  unsaddled  our  poor  jaded  horses  and  turned  them 
out  to  feed  upon  the  luxuriant  pasture  around  the  camp,  while 
we,  almost  equally  jaded,  threw  ourselves  down  in  our  blankets 
to  seek  a  little  repose  and  quiet  after  the  toils  and  fatigues  of  a 
long  day's  march. 

Soon  after  we  encamped,  the  Snake  chief  and  two  of  his  young 
men  visited  us.  We  formed  a  circle  around  our  lodge  and  smoked 
the  pipe  of  peace  with  them,  after  which  we  made  them  each  a 
present  of  a  yard  of  scarlet  cloth  for  leggings,  some  balls  and 
powder,  a  knife,  and  a  looking  glass.  Captain  W.  then  asked 
them  a  number  of  questions,  through  an  interpreter,  relative  to 
the  route,  the  fishery,  &c.  &c., — and  finally  bought  of  them  a 
small  quantity  of  dried  salmon,  and  a  little  fermented  kamas  or 
quamash  root.  The  Indians  remained  with  us  until  dark,  and 
then  loft  us  quietly  for  their  own  camp.  There  ci-  'wo  lodges 
of  them,  in  all  about  twenty  persons,  but  none  oi  ihcm  presumed 
to  come  near  us,  with  the  exception  of  the  three  men,  two 


ACROSS  TIIR   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


Vili 


squaws,  and  a  few  children.  The  chief  is  a  man  about  (illy 
years  of  age,  tall,  and  dignified  looking,  with  large,  strong  U(|uu> 
line  features.  His  manners  were  cordial  and  agreeable,  perliapM 
remarkably  so,  and  he  exhibited  very  little  of  that  stoical  indilFer- 
ence  to  surrounding  objects  which  is  so  characteristic  of  an  ln« 
dian.  His  dress  consisted  of  plain  leggings  of  deer  skin,  fringed 
at  the  sides,  unembroidered  moccasins,  and  a  marro  or  wiiitit* 
covering  of  antelope  skin  dressed  without  removing  the  huir. 
The  upper  part  of  his  person  was  simply  covered  with  a  small 
blanket,  and  his  ears  were  profusely  ornamented  with  brnnN 
rings  and  beads.  The  men  and  squaws  who  accompanied  himi 
were  entirely  naked,  except  that  the  latter  had  marro's  of  deer 
skin  covering  the  loins. 

The  next  morning  we  steered  west  across  the  wide  prairie, 
crossing  within  every  mile  or  two,  a  branch  of  the  tortuous 
Mallade,  near  each  of  which  good  pasture  was  seen ;  but  on  tho 
main  prairie  scarcely  a  blade  of  grass  could  be  found,  it  having 
been  lately  fired  by  the  Indians  to  improve  the  <;ropB  of  next 
year.  We  have  seen  to-day  some  lava  and  basalt  again  on  tho 
sides  of  the  hills,  and  on  the  mounds  in  the  plain,  but  the  level 
land  was  entirely  free  from  it. 

At  noon  on  the  17th,  we  passed  a  deserted  Indian  camp,  pro* 
bably  of  the  same  people  whose  trail  we  have  been  following. 
There  were  many  evident  si-^ns  of  the  Indians  having  but  ro» 
cently  left  it,  among  which  was  that  of  several  white  wolves 
lurking  around  in  the  hope  of  finding  remnants  of  meat,  but,  an  a 
Scotchman  would  say,  "  I  doubt  they  were  mistaken,"  for  meat 
is  scarce  here,  and  the  frugal  Indians  rarely  leave  enough  behind 
them  to  excite  even  the  famished  stomach  of  the  lank  and  hun* 
gry  wolf.  The  encampment  here  has  been  but  a  temporary  one, 
occupying  a  little  valley  densely  overgrown  with  willowN, 
the  tops  of  which  have  been  bent  over,  and  tied  so  as  to  form  ft 
sort  of  lodge ;  over  these,  they  have  probably  stretched  door 


i 


120 


NARRATIVB    OF   A   JOURNEY 


skins  or  blankets,  to  cxcliido  tlio  rnys  of  the  sun.  Of  tlicse  lodges 
there  arc  about  forty  in  the  valley,  so  that  the  party  must  liavo 
been  a  large  one.  .  \ 

In  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  "  Kamas  jyrairie"  so  called 
from  a  vast  abundance  of  this  esculent  root  which  it  produces, 
(the  Kamassa  eaculenta,  of  Nutlall.)  The  plain  is  a  beautiful 
level  one  of  about  a  mile  over,  hemmed  in  by  low,  rocky  hills, 
and  in  spring,  the  pretty  blue  flowers  of  the  Kamas  are  said  to 
give  it  a  |)cculiar,  and  very  pleasing  appearance.  At  this  season, 
the  flowers  do  not  appear,  the  vegetable  being  indicated  only  by 
little  dry  stems  which  protrude  all  over  the  ground  among  the 
grass.  •  .     ' . 

We  encamped  hero,  near  a  small  branch  of  Mallade  river;  and 
soon  after,  all  hands  took  their  kettles  and  scattered  over  the 
prairie  to  dig  a  mess  of  kamas.  Wc  were,  ol  course,  eminently 
successful,  and  were  furnished  thereby  with  an  excellent  and 
wholesome  meal.  When  boiled,  this  little  root  is  palatable,  and 
somewhat  resembles  the  taste  of  the  common  potato ;  the  Indian 
mode  of  preparing  it,  is,  however,  the  best — that  of  fermenting  it 
in  pits  under  ground,  into  which  hot  stones  have  been  placed. 
It  is  suflered  to  remain  in  these  pits  for  several  days ;  and  when 
removed,  is  of  a  dark  brown  color,  about  the  consistence  of  soft- 
ened glue,  and  sweet,  like  molasses.  It  is  then  often  made  into 
large  cakes,  by  being  mashed,  and  pressed  together,  and  slightly 
baked  in  the  sun.  There  arc  several  other  kinds  of  bulbous  and 
tuburous  roots,  growing  in  these  plains,  which  arc  eaten  by 
the  Indians,  after  undergoing  a  certain  process  of  fermentation 
or  baking.  Among  these,  that  which  is  most  esteemed,  is  the 
white  or  biscuit  root,  the  Racine  blanc  of  the  Canadians, — 
(Eulophua  ambigvvs,  of  Nuttall.)  This  is  dried,  pulverized  with 
stones,  and  after  being  moistened  with  water,  is  made  into  cakes 
and  baked  in  the  sun.     The  taste  is  not  unlike  that  of  a  stale 


ACROSS   T1IE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


biscuit,  and  to  n  hungry  man,  or  one  who  hos  long  subsisted 
witliout  vegetables  of  any  kind,  is  rather  palatable. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  we  commenced  ascending  the 
hills  again,  and  had  a  laborious  and  toilsome  day's  march.  One 
of  our  poor  wcoricd  horses  gave  up,  and  stopped ;  kicking,  and 
cuffing,  and  beating  had  no  effect  to  make  him  move ;  the  poor 
animal  laid  himself  down  with  his  load,  and  offer  this  was  de- 
tached and  shiffcd  to  the  back  of  another,  we  left  him  where  ho 
fell,  to  recruit,  and  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  or  die 
among  the  arid  hills.  This  is  the  first  horse  we  have  lost  in  this 
manner;  but  we  have  great  fears  that  many  others  will  soon  fail, 
as  their  riders  and  drivers  arc  compelled  to  use  the  whip  con- 
stantly, to  make  them  walk  at  the  slowest  gait.  Wo  comfort 
ourselves,  however,  by  supposing  that  we  have  now  nearly 
passed  the  most  rugged  country  on  the  route,  and  hope,  before 
many  days,  to  reach  the  valley  of  the  Shoshon^,  where  the 
country  will  be  level,  and  the  pasture  good.  We  arc  anxious, 
also,  to  fall  in  with  the  Snake  Indians,  in  order  to  get  a  supply 
of  salmon,  as  we  have  been  living  for  several  days  on  a  short 
allowance  of  wretched,  dry  meat,  and  this  poor  pittance  is  now 
almost  exhausted. 

Idth. — This  morning  was  cold,  the  thermometer  stood  at  28°, 
and  a  thick  skim  of  ice  was  in  the  camp  kettles  at  sunrise. 
Another  hard  day's  travel  over  the  hills,  during  which  we  lost 
two  of  our  largest  and  stoutest  horses.  Towards  evening,  we 
descended  to  a  fine  large  plain,  and  struck  BoiaeCy  or  Big  Wood 
river,  on  the  borders  of  which  we  encamped.  This  is  a  beautiful 
stream,  about  one  hundred  yardi)  in  width,  clear  as  crystal,  and, 
in  some  parts,  probably  twenty  feet  deep.  It  is  literally  crowded 
with  salmon,  which  are  springing  from  the  water  almost  con- 
stantly. Our  mouths  are  watering  most  abundantly  for  some  of 
them,  but  we  arc  not   provided    with   suitable  implements   for 


NARRATIVB   OF   A   JOVRNKT 


taking  any,  and  must  thorcforo  depend  for  a  supply  on  the  In* 
dians,  whom  we  hope  soon  to  meet.         ,    '  *(,.,.'(-, ,. 

We  found,  in  the  mountain  passes,  to-day,  a  considerable 
quantity  of  a  small  fruit  called  the  choke-cherry,  a  species  of 
prunus,  growing  on  low  bushes.  When  ripe,  they  are  tolerable 
eating,  somewhat  astringent,  however,  producing  upon  the  mouth 
the  same  effect,  though  in  a  less  degree,  as  the  unripe  persimmon. 
They  are  now  generally  green,  or  we  should  feast  luxuriantly 
upon  them,  and  render  more  tolerable  our  miserable  provision. 
Wo  have  seen,  also,  large  patches  of  service  bushes,  but  no 
fruit.  It  stems  to  have  failed  this  year,  although  ordinarily  so 
abundant  that  it  constitutes  a  large  portion  of  the  vc^<.  'able  food 
of  both  Indians  and  white  trappers  who  visit  these  rcguas. 


•■"■    ./'  ■  n 


AcnoM   THIS   ROUKY   ilOUNTAINI,   KtV. 


tf9 


CHAPTER   Vlll. 

J  BubiUMi  for  garni,  and  a  luxuriom  hreakfant — Eipirlnllont  nf  a  rcftnii, 
unil  a  lUinppolntmtnt— Visit  nf  a  Smike  cht<-J—hl»  uhlmrenet  t\f  hortt 
tMitl—jl  band  qf  Snake  Indiani—their  chief— Tvad$  with  Indians  fuv 
mlmun~Mr,  Mhwnrth'i  adventure— ^n  Indian  /mt*-thlej'—l'l»lt  In  the 
Snake  ramp—lti  Jillhinesi—Ji  Banneck  camp — Supereiliotm  cimdurt  nf  the 
Jndiani—^irlvul  at  Snahe  river— Equipment  qf  a  trapping  partji— Indian 
mode  (if  catching  talmon — Lota  qf  a  favorite  horie—J'owder  river— Cut 
rocki—Jiecovery  of  the  loit  trait— Grand  Ronde— Captain  JItmnevllle—hli 
fondmfii  for  a  roving  l(fe—Aayome  and  J\'ez  I'ercS  Jndiam—tlmlr  aiipear. 
unce—M  Indian  beauty— Bhie  mountains— Jl  feline  visit, 

August  "ZOth.—kt  about  daylight  this  morning,  having  churge 
of  tho  last  guard  of  the  night,  I  observed  a  beautiful,  Hlcck  little 
ooU,  of  about  four  months  old,  trot  into  tho  comp,  winnowing 
with  groat  apparent  pleasure,  and  dancing  ond  curvetting  gaily 
amongHt  our  Hobcr  and  sedate  band.  I  had  no  doubt  that  ho  had 
strayed  from  Indians,  who  were  probably  in  tho  noighlwrhood; 
but  ttH  here,  every  animal  that  comes  near  us  is  fair  game,  and 
as  we  were  hungry,  not  having  eaten  any  thing  of  w)n«o(|uenco 
since  yesterday  morning,  I  thought  the  little  stranger  would 
make  a  good  breakfast  for  us.  Concluding,  however,  that  it 
would  Ikj  lK!«t  to  act  advisedly  in  the  matter,  I  put  my  head  into 
Captain  W.'s  tent,  and  telling  him  the  news,  mado  the  proposi- 
tion which  had  occurred  to  mc.  The  captain's  ro|)ly  was  ^;n• 
cotiraging  enough,—'*  Down  with  him,  if  you  please,  Mr.  T.,  it 
is  tho  Lord's  doing;  let  us  have  him  for  breakfast."  In  five 
niinutcri  a(\erwardH,  a  bullet  sealed  the  fate  of  tho  unlbrtunato 
visitor,  and  my  men  were  set  to  work  making  fires,  and  rum* 

17 


130 


NARRATIVE   Of   A   JOURNKY 


maging  out  the  loug-ncgloctod  Htnw-pan.s,  while  1  ongngwl  myiiclf 
in  flaying  tho  little  nnimni,  and  cutting  up  his  body  in  rcudinoas 
for  the  pots. 

When  tho  camp  was  aroused,  about  an  hour  nt\er,  tho  savory 
steom  of  tho  cookery  was  rising  and  saluting  tho  nostrils  of  our 
hungry  people  with  its  fragrance,  who,  rubbing  their  hands  with 
delight,  sat  themselves  down  upon  tho  ground,  waiting  with 
what  patience  they  might,  for  the  unexpected  repast  which  waa 
preparing  for  thorn. 

It  was  to  me  almost  equal  to  n  good  breakfast,  to  witness  the 
pleasure  and  satisfaction  which  I  had  been  tho  means  of  diffusing 
through  tho  camp. 

Tho  repast  was  ready  at  length,  and  we  did  full  justice  to  it ; 
every  man  ate  until  he  was  filled,  and  all  pronounced  it  one  of 
the  most  delicious  meals  they  had  ever  assisted  in  demolishing. 
When  our  breakfast  was  concluded,  but  little  of  the  colt  remained ; 
that  little  was,  however,  carefully  packed  up,  and  deposited  on 
one  of  tho  horses,  to  furnish,  at  least,  a  portion  of  another 
meal. 

Tho  route,  this  morning,  lay  along  Bois^e.  For  an  hour,  the 
travelling  was  toilsome  and  difficult,  the  Indian  trail,  leading 
along  the  high  bank  of  the  river,  steep  and  rocky,  making  our 
progress  very  slow  and  laborious.  We  then  camo  to  a  wide 
plain,  interrupted  only  by  occasional  high  banks  of  earth,  some 
of  them  of  considerable  extent,  across  which  ran  the  path.  To- 
wards mid-day,  we  lost  sight  of  these  banks,  the  whole  country 
appearing  level,  with  the  exception  of  some  distant  hills  in  the 
south-west,  which  wo  suppose  indicate  the  vicinity  of  some  part 
of  Snake  river. 

We  have  all  been  disappointed  in  tho  distance  to  this  river, 
and  the  length  of  time  required  to  reach  it.  Not  a  man  in  our 
camp  has  ever  travelled  this  route  before,  and  all  we  have  known 
about  it  has  been  the  general  course. 


AOROn   T1IK   ROCKY    MOVNTAINI,  ETC. 


In  tho  nflcrnoon,  wo  obsorvcii  a  number  of  Indiann  on  the  oppo- 
sitn  side  )rtho  river,  engaged  in  fmhing  for  Hulnion.  Captain  W. 
and  (Wo  men  immediately  croHsed  over  to  them,  carrying  with 
thom  a  few  Bmall  articles  to  exchange  for  fish.  Wo  congratu- 
lated ourselves  upon  our  good  furtnno  in  seeing  thcso  Indians, 
and  were  anticipating  a  plentiful  meal,  when  Captain  W.  and  his 
companions  returned,  bringing  only  three  small  salmon.  The 
Indians  had  been  unsuccessful  in  fishing,  not  having  caught 
enough  for  themselves,  and  even  the  oiler  of  exorbitant  sums 
was  not  Bufliciont  to  induce  them  to  pari  with  more. 

In  tho  afternoon,  a  grouse  and  a  beaver  were  killed,  which, 
added  to  tho  remains  of  tho  colt,  and  our  three  little  salmon,  made 
us  a  tolerable  supper.  While  wo  were  eating,  wo  wero  visited  by  a 
Snake  chief,  a  large  and  powerful  man,  of  a  peculiarly  dignified 
aspect  and  manner.  He  was  naked,  with  tho  exception  of  a  small 
bltinket  which  covered  his  shoulders,  and  descended  to  the  middle 
of  the  back,  being  fastened  around  tho  neck  with  a  silver 
skewer.  As  it  was  pudding  timo  with  us,  our  visitor  was  of 
course  invited  to  sit  and  eat ;  and  he,  nothing  loath,  deposited 
himself  at  once  upon  tho  ground,  and  made  a  remarkably 
vigorous  assault  upon  tho  mixed  contents  of  the  dish.  Ho  had 
not  eaten  long,  however,  before  we  perceived  a  sudden  and  inex* 
plicable  change  in  his  countenance,  which  was  instantly  followed 
by  a  violent  ejectment  of  a  huge  mouthful  of  our  luxurious  fare. 
The  man  rose  slowly,  and  with  great  dignity,  to  his  feet,  and  pro- 
nouncing the  single  word  "aAcfcum,"  (horse,)  in  a  tone  of 
mingled  anger  and  disgust,  stalked  rapidly  out  of  tho  camp,  not 
even  wishing  us  a  good  evening.  ,  It  struck  me  as  a  singular  in- 
stance of  accuracy  and  discrimination  in  the  organs  of  taste. 
We  had  been  eating  of  the  multifarious  compound  without  being 
able  to  recognise ,  by  the  taste,  a  single  ingredient  which  it  con- 
tained ;  a  stranger  came  among'st  us,  who  did  not  know,  when  he 


I 


132 


narrative:  of  a  jornwET 


commenced  eating,  that  the  dish  was  formed  of  more  than  one 
item,  and  yet  in  less  than  five  minutes  he  discovered  one  of  the 
very  least  of  its  component  parts. 

It  would  seem  from  this  circumstance  that  the  Indians,  or  it 
may  be  the  particular  tribe  to  which  this  man  belongs,  arc 
opposed  to  the  eating  of  horse  flesh,  and  yet,  the  natural  supposi- 
tion would  be,  that  in  the  gamcless  country  inhabited  by  them  they 
would  often  be  reduced  to  such  shifts,  and  thus  readily  conquer 
any  natural  reluctance  which  they  might  feel  to  partake  of  such 
U)od.  I  did  not  think  until  after  he  left  us,  that  if  the  chief  knew 
how  the  horse  meat  he  so  much  detested  was  procured,  and 
where,  he  might  probably  have  expressed  even  more  indignation, 
for  it  is  not  at  all  unlikely  that  the  colt  had  strayed  from  his 
own  band. 

2lst. — The  timber  along  the  river  banks  is  plentiful,  and  often 
attains  a  large  size.  It  is  chiefly  of  the  species  called  balsam 
poplar,  {Populus  balsamifera.) 

Towards  noon  to-day,  we  observed  ahead  several  groups  of 
Indians,  perhaps  twenty  in  each,  and  on  the  appearance  of  our 
cavalcade,  they  manifested  their  joy  at  seeing  us,  by  the  most 
extravagant  and  grotesque  gestures,  dancing  and  capering  most 
ludicrously.  Every  individual  of  them  was  perfectly  naked,  with 
the  exception  of  a  small  thong  around  the  waist,  to  which  was 
attached  a  square  piece  of  flannel,  skin,  or  canvass,  depending 
half  way  to  the  knees.  Their  stature  was  rather  below  the 
middle  height,  but  they  were  strongly  built  and  very  muscular. 
Each  man  carried  his  salmon  spear,  and  these,  with  the  knives 
stuck  in  their  girdles,  appeared  to  be  their  only  weapons,  not  one 
of  them  having  a  gun.  As  we  neared  them,  the  first  group  ran 
towards  us,  crying  "Shoshone,  Shoshon^,"  and  caused  some 
deloy  by  their  eagerness  to  grasp  our  hands  and  examine  otir 
garments.     After  one  group  had  become  satisfied  with  fingering 


ACR098  THE  ROCKT  MOUNTAINS,  KTC. 


133 


U8,  WO  rodo  on  and  sutFered  the  same  process  by  the  next,  and 
io  on  until  wo  Imd  passed  the  whole,  every  Indian  crying  with  a 
loud  voice,  '•  Tabiboo  aant,  tabiboo  sunt  /"  (white  man  is  good, 
white  man  is  good.) 

In  a  short  time  the  chief  joined  us,  and  our  party  stopped  for  an 
hour,  and  Imd  a  "  talk"  with  him.  He  told  us,  in  answer  to  our 
questions,  tliat  his  people  had  fish,  and  would  give  them  for  our 
goods  if  wo  would  sleep  one  night  near  their  camp,  and  smoke  with 
them.  No  trade,  of  consequence,  can  ever  be  effected  with 
Indians,  unless  the  pipe  be  first  smoked,  and  the  matter  calmly 
and  seriously  deliberated  upon.  An  Indian  chief  would  think  his 
dignity  soriously  compromised  if  he  were  expected  to  do  any 
thing  in  a  hurry,  much  less  so  serious  a  matter  as  a  salmon  or 
hcavor  trade ;  and  if  we  had  refused  his  offered  terms,  ho  would 
probably  havo  allowed  us  to  pass  on,  and  denied  himself  the 
darling  rings,  bells,  and  paint,  rather  than  infringe  a  custom  so 
long  religiously  practised  by  his  people.  We  were  therefore 
inclinod  to  humor  our  Snake  friend,  and  accordingly  came  to  a 
halt,  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

The  chief  and  several  of  his  favored  young  braves  sat  with 
us  on  tho  bank,  and  we  smoked  with  them,  the  other  Indians 
forming  a  largo  circle  around. 

Tho  chief  is  a  man  rather  above  the  ordinary  height,  with  a 
fine,  noblo  countenance,  and  remarkably  large,  prominent  eyes. 
His  person,  instead  of  being  naked,  as  is  usual,  is  clothed  in  a 
robo  mode  of  the  skin  of  the  mountain  sheep ;  a  broad  band 
mniln  of  largo  blue  beads,  is  fastened  to  the  top  of  his  head,  and 
hangs  over  on  his  cheeks,  and  around  his  neck  is  suspended  the 
foot  of  n  huge  grizzly  bear.  The  possession  of  this  uncouth  or- 
nament is  considered  among  them,  a  great  honor,  since  none  but 
those  whose  prowess  has  enabled  them  to  kill  the  animal,  are  al- 
lowed to  wear  it,  and  with  their  weak  and  inefficient  weapons, 


134 


NARRATIVE   OF   A    JOURNEY 


the  destruction  of  so  fierce  and  terrible  a  brute,  is  a  feat  that 
may  well  entitle  them  to  some  distinction. 

We  remained  two  hours  at  the  spot  where  we  halted,  and  then 
passed  on  about  four  miles,  accompanied  by  the  chief  and  his 
people,  to  their  camp,  where  we  pitched  our  tents  for  the  night. 
In  a  short  time  the  Indians  came  to  us  in  great  numbers,  with 
bundles  of  dried  salmon  in  their  arms,  and  a  few  recent  ones.  We 
commenced  our  trading  immediately,  giving  them  in  exchange, 
fish-hooks,  beads,  knives,  paint,  &c.,  and  before  evening,  had 
procuied  sufficient  provision  for  the  consumption  of  our  party 
until  we  arrive  at  the  falls  of  Snake  river,  where  we  are  told  we 
shall  meet  the  Bannecks,  from  whom  we  can  doubtless  trade  a 
supply,  which  will  serve  us  until  we  reach  Walla-walla. 

While  we  were  pursuing  our  trade,  Richardson  and  Mr.  Ash- 
worth  rode  into  the  camp,  and  I  observed  by  the  countenance  of 
the  latter,  that  something  unusual  had  occurred.  I  felt  very 
certain  that  no  ordinary  matter  would  be  capable  of  ruffling  this 
calm,  intrepid,  and  almost  fool-hardy  young  man  ,*  so  it  was  with 
no  little  interest  that  I  drew  near,  to  listen  to  the  tale  which  he 
told  Captain  W.  with  a  face  flushed  with  unusual  anger,  while 
his  whole  person  seemed  to  swell  with  pride  and  disdain. 

He  said  that  while  riding  about  five  miles  behind  the  party, 
(not  being  able  to  keep  up  with  it  on  account  of  his  having  a  worn 
out  horse,)  he  was  attacked  by  about  fifty  of  the  Indians  whom 
we  passed  earlier  in  the  day,  dragged  forcibly  from  his  horse 
and  thrown  upon  the  ground.  Here,  some  held  their  knives  to 
his  throat  to  prevent  his  rising,  and  others  robbed  him  of  his 
saddle  bags,  and  all  that  they  contained.  While  he  was  yet  in 
this  unpleasant  situation,  Richardson  came  suddenly  upon  them, 
and  the  cowardly  Indians  releasee  r  captive  instantly,  throw- 
ing the  saddle  bags  and  every  thing  ie  upon  the  ground,  and 
flying  like  frightened  antelopes  over  the  plain.  The  only  real 
damage  that  Mr.  Ashworth  sustained,  was  the  total  loss  of  his 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOVNTAi'NS,  ETC. 


135 


saddle  bags,  which  were  cut  to  pieces  by  the  knives  of  the  In- 
dians, in  order  to  abstract  the  contents.  These,  however,  we 
think  he  deserves  to  lose,  inasmuch,  as  with  all  our  persuasion, 
we  have  never  been  able  to  induce  him  to  carry  a  gun  since  we 
left  the  country  infested  by  the  Blackfeet ;  and  to-day,  the  very 
show  of  such  a  weapon  would  undoubtedly  have  prevented  the 
attack  of  which  he  complains. 

Richardson  gives  an  amusing  account  of  the  deportment  of 
our  young  English  friend  while  he  was  lying  under  the  knives 
his  captors.  The  heavy  whip  of  buffalo  hide,  which  was  his 
only  weapon,  was  applied  with  great  energy  to  the  naked  backs 
and  shoulders  of  the  Indians,  who  winced  and  stamped  under  the 
infliction,  but  still  feared  to  use  their  knives,  except  to  prevent 
his  rising.  Richardson,  says-,  that  until  he  approached  closely, 
the  blows  were  descending  in  rapid  succession,  and  our  hunter 
was  in  some  danger  of  losing  his  characteristic  dignity  in  his 
efforts  to  repress  a  loud  and  hearty  laugh  at  the  extreme  ludi- 
crousness  of  the  whole  scene. 

Captain  W.,  when  the  circumstances  of  the  assault  were  stated 
to  him,  gave  an  immediate  order  for  the  suspension  of  business, 
and  calling  the  chief  to  him,  told  him  seriously,  that  if  an  attempt 
were  again  made  to  interrupt  any  of  his  party  on  their  march, 
the  offenders  should  be  tied  to  a  tree  and  whipped  severely.  He 
enforced  his  language  by  gestures  so  expressive  that  none  could 
misunderstand  him,  and  he  was  answered  by  a  low  groan  from 
the  Indians  present,  and  a  submissive  bowing  of  their  heads. 
The  chief  appeared  very  much  troubled,  and  harangued  his  peo- 
ple for  considerable  time  on  the  subject,  repeating  what  the  cap- 
tain had  said,  with  some  additional  remarks  of  his  own,  implying 
that  even  a  worse  fate  than  whipping  would  be  the  lot  of  future 
delinquents. 

22d. — Last  night  during  the  second  guard,  while  on  my  walk 


186 


NARKATIVE   OP   A   JOURNEY 


around  the  camp,  I  observed  one  of  my  men  squatted  on  the 
ground,  intently  surveying  some  object  which  appeared  to  be 
moving  among  the  horses.  At  his  request,  I  stooped  also, 
and  could  distinctly  perceive  something  near  us  which  was  cer- 
tainly not  a  horse,  and  yet  was  as  certainly  a  living  object.  I 
supposed  it  to  be  either  a  bear  or  a  wolf,  and  at  the  earnest  solici- 
tation of  the  man,  I  gave  the  word  "  fire."  The  trigger  was  in- 
'  stantly  pulled,  the  sparks  flew  from  the  flint,  but  the  rifle  was  not 
exploded.  At  the  sound,  an  Indian  sprang  from  the  grass 
where  he  had  been  crouching,  and  darted  away  towards  the 
Snake  camp.  His  object  certainly  was  to  appropriate  one  of 
our  horses,  and  very  fortunate  for  him  was  it  that  the  gun 
missed  fire,  for  the  man  was  an  unerring  marksman.  This 
little  warning  will  probably  check  other  similar  attempts  by  these 
people. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  strolled  into  the  Snake  camp.  It  con- 
sists of  about  thirty  lodges  or  wigwams,  formed  generally  of 
branches  of  trees  tied  together  in  a  conic  summit,  and  covered 
with  buffalo,  deer,  or  elk  skins.  Men  and  little  children 
were  lolling  about  the  ground  all  around  the  wigwams,  together 
with  a  heterogeneous  assemblance  of  dogs,  cats,  some  tamed 
prairie  wolves,  and  other  "  vartnints.''*  The  dogs  growled  and 
snapped  when  I  approached,  the  wolves  cowered  and  looked 
cross,  and  the  cats  ran  away  and  hid  themselves  in  dark  corners. 
They  had  not  been  accustomed  to  the  face  of  a  white  man,  and 
all  the  quadrupeds  seemed  to  regard  me  as  some  monstrous  produc- 
tion, more  to  be  feared  than  loved  or  courted.  This  dislike, 
however,  did  not  appear  to  extend  to  the  bipeds,  for  many  of 
every  age  and  sex  gathered  around  me,  and  seemed  to  be  exam- 
ining me  critically  in  all  directions.  The  men  looked  compla- 
cently at  me,  the  women,  the  dear  creatures,  smiled  upon  me, 
and  the  little  naked,  pot-bellied  children  crawled  around  my  feet, 
examining  the  fashion  of  my  hard  shoes,  and  playing  with  the 


ACROSS    TUB    UOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


137 


long  fringes  of  my  leathern  inexpressibles.  But  I  scarcely  know 
how  to  commence  a  description  of  the  tout  en  semblc  of  the  comp, 
or  to  frame  a  sentence  which  will  give  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
extreme  tilth,  and  most  horrific  nastiness  of  the  whole  vicinity. 
I  shall  therefore  but  transiently  glance  at  it,  omitting  many  of 
the  most  disgusting  and  abominable  features. 

Immediately  as  I  entered  the  village,  my  olfactories  were  as- 
sailed by  the  most  vile  and  mephitic  odors,  which  I  found  to  pro- 
ceed chiefly  from  great  piles  of  salmon  entrails  and  garbage 
which  were  lying  festering  and  rotting  in  the  sun,  around  the  very 
doors  of  the  habitations.  Fish,  recent  and  half  dried,  were  scat- 
tered all  over  the  ground,  under  the  feet  of  the  dogs,  wolves  and 
Indian  children;  and  others  which  had  been  split,  were  hanging  on 
rude  platforms  erected  within  the  precincts  of  the  camp.  Some  of 
the  women  were  making  their  breakfast  of  the  great  red  salmon 
eggs  as  large  as  peas,  and  using  a  wooden  spoon  to  convey 
them  to  their  mouths.  Occasionally,  also,  by  way  of  varying  the 
repast,  they  would  take  a  huge  pinch  of  a  drying  fish  which  was 
lying  on  the  ground  near  them.  Many  of  the  children  were 
similarly  employed,  and  the  little  imps  would  also  have  hard 
contests  with  the  dogs  for  a  favorite  morsel,  the  former  roaring 
and  blubbering,  the  latter  yelping  and  snarling,  and  both  rolling 
over  and  over  together  upon  the  savory  soil.  The  whole  economy 
of  the  lodges,  and  the  inside  and  outside  appearance,  was  of  a  piece 
with  every  thing  else  about  them — filthy  beyond  description — the 
very  skins  which  covered  the  wigwams  were  black  and  stiff  with 
rancid  salmon  fat,  and  the  dresses,  (if  dresses  they  may  be 
called)  of  the  women,  were  of  the  same  color  and  consistence, 
from  the  same  cause.  These  dresses  are  little  square  pieces  of 
deer  skin,  fastened  with  a  thong  around  the  loins,  and  reaching 
about  half  way  to  the  knees ;  the  rest  of  the  person  is  entirely 
naked.  Some  of  the  women  had  little  children  clinging  like  bull- 
frogs to  their  backs,  without  being  fastened,  and  in  that  situation 

18 


138 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


extracting  their  lactiferous  sustenance  from  the  breast,  which 
was  tlirown  over  the  shoulders. 

It  is  almost  needless  to  say,  that  I  did  not  remain  long  in  the 
Snake  camp;  for  although  I  had  been  a  considerable  time 
estranged  from  the  abodes  of  luxury,  and  had  become  somewhat 
accustomed  to,  at  least,  a  partial  assimilation  to  a  state  of  nature, 
yet  I  was  not  prepared  for  what  I  saw  here.  I  never  had  fancied 
any  thing  so  utterly  abominable,  and  .was  glad  to  escape  to  a 
purer  and  more  wholesome  atmosphere. 

When  I  returned  to  our  camp,  the  trading  was  going  on  as 
briskly  as  yesterday.  A  large  number  of  Indians  were  assembled 
around,  all  of  whom  had  bundles  of  fish,  which  they  were 
anxious  to  dispose  of.  The  price  of  a  dried  salmon  is  a  straight 
awl,  and  a  small  fish  hook,  value  about  one  cent ;  ten  fish  are 
given  for  a  common  butcher  knife  that  costs  eight  cents.  Some, 
however,  will  prefer  beads,  paint,  &c.,  and  of  these  articles, 
about  an  equal  amount  in  value  is  given.  A  beaver  skin  can  be 
had  for  a  variety  of  little  matters,  which  cost  about  twelve  and  a 
half  cents ;  value,  in  Boston,  from  eight  to  ten  dollars ! 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  we  repacked  our  bales  of  goods  and 
rode  out  of  the  encampment,  the  Indians  yelling  an  adieu  to  us 
as  we  passed  them.  We  observed  that  one  had  wrapped  a 
buffalo  robe  around  him,  taken  a  bow  and  arrows  in  his  hand, 
and  joined  us  as  we  went  off.  Although  we  travelled  rapidly 
during  the  afternoon,  the  man  kept  with  us  without  apparent 
over-exertion  or  fatigue,  trotting  along  constantly  for  miles 
together.  He  is  probably  on  a  visit  to  a  village  of  his  people 
who  are  encamped  on  the  "  Big  river." 

23d. — Towards  noon,  to-day,  we  fell  in  with  a  village,  con- 
sisting of  thirty  willow  lodges  of  Bannecks.  The  Indians  flocked 
out  to  us  by  hundreds,  leiving  their  fishing,  and  every  other 
employment,  to  visit  the  strangers.  The  chief  soon  made  him- 
self known  to  us,  and  gave  us  a  pressing  invitation  to  stop  a 


'¥ 


ACROSS  THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC 


mo 


short  time  with  them,  for  the  purpose  of  trade.  Althougli  wo 
had  a  good  supply  of  fish  on  hand,  and  did  not  expect  soon  to 
suffer  from  want,' yet  we  knew  not  but  we  might  be  disappointed 
in  procuring  provision  lower  in  the  country,  and  concluded, 
therefore,  to  halt  for  half  an  hour,  and  make  a  small  increase  to 
our  stock.  We  were  in  some  hustc,  and  anxious  to  travel  on  as 
quickly  as  possible,  to  Snake  river.  Captain  W.,  thorifore, 
urged  the  chief  to  have  the  fish  brought  immediately,  as  ho  in- 
tended soon  to  leave  them.  The  only  reply  he  could  obtain  to 
this  request,  was  "  te  sant,''^  (it  is  good,)  accompanied  by  signs, 
that  he  wished  to  smoke.  A  pipe  was  provided,  and  ho,  with 
about  a  dozen  of  his  young  men,  formed  a  circle  near,  and  con- 
tinued smoking,  with  great  tranquillity,  for  half  an  hour. 

Our  patience  became  almost  exhausted,  and  they  were  told 
that  if  their  fish  were  not  soon  produced,  we  should  leave  thom 
empty  as  we  came  ;  to  this,  the  only  answer  of  the  chief  was  a 
sign  to  us  to  remain  still,  while  he  deliberated  yet  farther  upon 
the  subject. 

We  sat  a  short  time  longer  in  silent  expectation,  and  wore 
thon  preparing  to  mount  our  horses  and  be  off,  when  sovoral 
squaws  were  despatched  to  one  of  the  lodges.  They  returned  in 
a  few  minutes,  bringing  about  a  dozen  dried  fish.  These  wore 
laid  in  small  piles  on  the  ground,  and  when  the  usual  price  wm 
offered  for  them,  they  refused  it  scornfully,  making  the  most 
exorbitant  demands.  As  our  articles  of  trade  were  running  low, 
and  we  were  not  in  immediate  want,  we  purchased  only  a  suffi- 
ciency for  one  day,  and  prepared  for  our  departure,  leaving  tho 
ground  strewn  with  the  neglected  salmon.  The  Indians  woro 
evidently  very  much  irritated,  as  we  could  perceive  by  thoir 
angry  countenances,  and  loud  words  of  menace.  Some  loosed 
the  bows  from  their  shoulders,  and  shook  them  at  us  with  vio- 
lent gestures  of  rage,  and  a  boy,  of  seventeen  or  eighteen  yooj'H 
of  age,  who  stood  near  me,  struck  my  horse  on  the  head  witli  a 


140 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOrRNEY 


stick,  which  he  held  in  liis  hand.  This  provoked  me  not  a  little; 
and  spurring  the  animal  a  few  steps  forward,  T  brought  my 
heavy  whip  several  times  over  his  naked  shoulders,  and  sent  him 
screeching  into  the  midst  of  his  people.  Several  bows  were 
drawn  at  me  for  this  act,  and  glad  would  the  savages  have  been 
to  have  had  me  for  a  short  time  at  their  mercy,  but  as  it  was, 
they  feared  to  let  slip  their  orrows,  and  soon  dropped  their 
points,  contenting  themselves  with  vaporing  away  in  all  the  im- 
potence of  childish  rage.  As  we  rode  off,  they  greeted  us,  not 
with  the  usual  gay  yell,  but  with  a  scornful,  taunting  laugh,  that 
sounded  like  the  rejoicings  of  an  infernal  jubilee.  Had  th&se 
people  been  provided  with  efficient  arms,  and  the  requisite 
amount  of  courage  to  use  them,  they  might  have  given  us  some 
inconvenience. 

Towards  evening,  we  arrived  on  Snake  river,  crossed  it  at  a 
ford,  and  encamped  near  a  number  of  lodges  along  the  shore. 
Shortly  afterwards,  Captain  W.,  with  three  men,  visited  the  In- 
dians, carrying  with  them  some  small  articles,  to  trade  for  fish. 
In  cbout  half  an  hour  they  returned,  bringing  only  about  ten 
salmon.  They  observed,  among  the  Indians,  the  same  disincli- 
nation to  traffic  that  the  others  had  manifested;  or  rather,  like  the 
first,  they  placed  a  higher  value  than  usual  upon  the  commodity, 
and  wanted,  in  exchange,  articles  which  we  were  not  willing  to 
spare  them.  They  treated  Captain  VV.  with  the  same  inso- 
lence and  contempt  which  was  so  irritating  from  those  of  the 
other  village. 

This  kind  of  conduct  is  said  to  be  unusual  among  this  tribe, 
but  it  is  probably  now  occasioned  by  their  having  recently  pur- 
chased a  supply  of  small  articles  from  Captain  Bonneville,  who, 
they  inform  us,  has  visited  them  within  a  few  days. 

Being  desirous  to  escape  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
village,  we  moved  our  camp  about  four  miles  further,  and 
stopped  for  the  night. 


ACROSS  THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  KTC. 


141 


24<A. — The  sudden  and  entire  change  from  flesh  exclusively, 
to  fish,  ditto,  has  affected  us  all,  more  or  less,  with  diarrhcea  and 
pain  in  the  abdomen  ;  several  of  the  men  have  been  so  extremely 
sick,  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  travel ;  wo  shall,  however,  no 
doubt,  become  accustomed  to  it  in  a  few  days. 

We  passed,  this  morning,  over  a  flat  country,  very  similar  to 
that  along  the  Platte,  abounding  in  wormwood  bushes,  the  pulpy- 
leaved  thorn,  and  others,  and  deep  with  sand,  and  at  noon  stopped 
on  a  small  stream  called  Malheur'a  creek. 

Here  a  party  of  nine  men  v/as  equipped,  and  despatched  up  the 
river,  and  across  the  country,  on  a  trapping  expedition,  with 
orders  to  join  us  early  in  the  ensuing  winter,  at  the  fort  on  the 
Columbia.  Richardson  was  the  chief  of  this  party,  and  when  I 
grasped  the  hand  of  our  worthy  hunter,  and  bade  him  farewell,  I 
felt  as  though  I  were  taking  leave  of  a  friend.  I  had  become 
particularly  attached  to  him,  from  the  great  simplicity  and  kind- 
ness of  his  heart,  and  his  universally  correct  and  proper  deport- 
ment. I  had  been  accustomed  to  depend  upon  his  knowledge 
and  sagacity  in  every  thing  connected  with  the  wild  and  roving 
life  which  I  had  led  for  some  months  past,  and  I  felt  that  his 
absence  would  be  a  real  loss,  as  well  to  myself,  as  to  the  whole 
camp,  which  had  profited  so  much  by  his  dexterity  and  skill. 

Our  party  will  now  consist  of  only  seventeen  men,  but  the 
number  is  amply  sufiicient,  as  we  have  passed  over  the  country 
where  danger  is  to  be  apprehended  from  Indians.  We  followed 
the  course  of  the  creek  during  the  afternoon,  and  in  the  evening 
encamped  on  Snake  river,  into  which  Malheur  empties.  The 
river  is  here  nearly  a  mile  wide,  but  deep  and  clear,  and  for  a 
considerable  distance,  perfectly  navigable  for  steamboats,  or  even 
larger  craft,  and  it  would  seem  not  improbable,  that  at  some  dis- 
tant day,  these  facilities,  added  to  the  excellence  of  the  alluvial 
soil,  should  induce  the  stout  and  hardy  adventurers  of  our  country 
to  make  permanent  settlements  here. 


142 


NAHBATIVB  OF   A   JOUHNEV 


I  have  not  observed  that  the  Indians  often  attempt  fishing  in 
the  "big  river,"  v.-here  It  is  wide  and  deep;  they  generally  pre- 
fer the  slues,  creeks,  &c.  Across  these,  a  net  of  closely  woven 
willows  is  stretched,  placed  vertically,  and  extending  from  the 
bottom  to  several  feet  above  the  surface.  A  number  of  Indians 
enter  the  water  about  a  hundred  yards  above  the  net,  and, 
walking  closely,  drive  the  fish  in  a  body  against  the  wicker 
work.  Hero  they  frequently  become  entangled,  and  are  always 
checked ;  the  spear  is  then  used  dexterously,  and  they  are 
thrown  out,  one  by  one,  upon  the  shore.  With  industry,  a  vast 
number  of  salmon  might  be  taken  in  this  manner  ;  but  the  In- 
dians are  generally  so  indolent  and  careless  of  the  future,  that  it 
is  rare  to  find  an  individual  with  provision  enough  to  supply  his 
lodge  for  a  week. 

25th. — Early  in  the  day  the  country  assumed  a  more  hilly  as- 
pect. The  rich  plains  were  gone.  Instead  of  a  dense  growth 
of  willow  and  the  balsam  poplar,  low  bushes  of  wormwood, 
&c.,  predominated,  intermixed  with  the  tall,  rank  prairie 
grass. 

Towards  noon,  we  fell  in  with  about  ten  lodges  of  Indians, 
(Snakes  and  Bannecks,)  from  whom  we  purchased  eighty  sal- 
moi.  This  has  put  us  in  excellent  spirits.  We  feared  that  we 
had  lost  sight  of  the  natives,  and  as  we  had  not  reserved  half  the 
requisite  quantity  of  provisions  for  our  support  to  the  Columbia, 
(most  of  our  stock  having  been  given  to  Richardson's  trapping 
party,)  the  prospect  of  several  days  abstinence  seemed  very 
clear  before  us. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  deviated  a  little  from  our  general  course, 
to  cut  vffa  bend  in  the  river,  and  crossed  a  short,  high  hill,  a  part 
of  an  extensive  range  which  we  have  seen  for  two  days  ahead, 
and  which  we  suppose  to  be  in  the  vicinity  of  Powder  river,  and 


ACROflS  Tnfi  ROOKY  MOUNTAINN,  RTDi 


143 


in  tiin  ovoiiing  encamped  in  a  narrow  valloy,  on  th«  bordofH  of 
tlio  HhoNlion^. 

'Mth, — Lnst  night  I  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  my  fovorite, 
and  latterly  my  only  riding  horse,  the  other  having  \Hnm  lofl  at 
Fort  Ildll,  in  consequence  of  a  sudden  lamencsN,  with  which  ho 
became  nfllictod  only  the  night  before  our  depttrturo.*  Tho 
animal  wum  turned  out  as  usual,  with  the  otherH,  in  tho  evening, 
und  UH  I  have  never  known  him  to  stray  in  a  single  inKtuaco,  I 
concli4de  that  some  lurking  Indian  has  stolen  him.  It  was  tho 
fatteHt  and  handHomest  horse  in  the  band,  and  was  no  doubt  caro* 
fully  selected,  as  there  was  probably  but  a  single  Indian,  who 
was  unable  to  take  more,  for  fear  of  alarming  the  guard.  TIiIm 
is  tho  most  serious  loss  I  have  met  with.  The  animal  was  par- 
ticularly valuable  to  me,  and  no  consideration  would  have  induced 
me  to  part  with  it  here.  It  is,  however,  a  kind  of  accident  that 
V.I  arc  always  more  or  less  liable  to  in  this  country,  and  a* a 
search  would  certainly  be  fruitless,  must  be  submitted  to  with 
an  good  a  grace  as  possible.  Captain  W.  has  kindly  ofrorcd  mo 
tho  I4S0  of  horses  until  we  arrive  at  Columbia. 

Wc  commenced  our  march  early,  travelling  up  a  broad,  rich 
valley,  in  which  we  encamped  last  night,  and  at  tho  head  of  it, 
on  a  crock  called  Brule,  wc  found  one  family,  conHinting  of  five 
Snako  Indians,  one  man,  two  women,  and  two  children.  They 
had  evidently  but  very  recently  arrived,  probably  only  last 
night,  and  as  they  must  certainly  have  passed  our  camp,  wo  feel 
littlo  hesitation  in  believing  that  my  lost  horse  is  in  thoir  possoS' 
uion.     It  is,  however,  impossible  to  prove  the  thefl  upon  them  in 

*  I  anerWRrdf  aMcrtaincd  that  this  lameneRs  of  my  "  buflTitlo,  ItorK,"  wm  lnt«n> 
tkMMlly  cHUud  by  one  of  the  liopeful  gentry  left  in  ctwrge  of  the  fort,  for  llio  |»ur> 
(KM  of  rendering  tlie  animal  unable  to  travel,  and  as  a  conseijuence,  conniilng  liira 
(0  tho  foi't  at  the  time  of  our  dbparture.  The  good  (lualities  oi  the  home  ai  a  buf* 
falo  racer,  were  imivcrsally  known  und  appreciated,  and  1  Imd  reiicutcdiy  rcfiiMd 
largo  (Uiui  for  him,  from  those  wlio  dcsiivd  him  for  this  |Miriioite, 


Isfi 


144 


NABRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


any  way,  nnd  time  is  not  allowed  us  to  search  the  premiHos. 
Wo  cuiinot  oven  question  them  concerning  it,  as  our  interpreter, 
McCurcy,  left  ua  with  the  trapping  party. 

Wo  bought,  of  this  family,  a  considerable  quantity  of  dried 
choke-cherries,  these  being  the  only  article  of  commerce  which 
they  possessed.  This  fruit  they  prepare  by  pounding  it  with 
stones,  and  drying  it  in  masses  in  the  sun.  It  is  then  good 
tasted,  nnd  somewhat  nutritive,  and  it  loses,  by  the  process,  tho 
wholo  of  tho  astringcncy  which  is  so  disagreeable  in  tho  recent 
fruit. 

Leaving  tho  valley,  wo  proceeded  over  some  high  and  stony 
hills,  keeping  pretty  nearly  tho  course  of  the  creek.  The  tra- 
velling was,  as  usual  in  such  places,  dilhcult  and  laborious,  and 
our  progress  necessarily  slow  and  tedious.  Throughout  tho  day, 
there  was  no  change  in  tho  character  of  the  country,  and  tho 
i|tt  consequence  was,  that  three  of  our  poor  horses  gave  up  nnd 

stopped. 

27th. — This  morning,  two  men  were  left  nt  the  camp,  for  tho 
purpose  of  collecting  and  bringing  on,  moderately,  the  horses  left 
yesterday,  and  others  that  may  hereafter  fail.  We  were  obliged 
to  leave  ,vith  them  a  stock  of  provision  greater  in  proportion  than 
our  own  rather  limited  allowance,  and  have  thus  somewhat 
diminished  our  chance  of  performing  the  remainder  of  the  jour« 
ncy  with  satisfied  appetites,  but  there  is  some  small  game  to  bo 
found  on  the  route,  grouse,  ducks,  &c.,  and  occasionally  a  beaver 
may  be  taken,  if  our  necessities  are  pressing.  We  made  a  noon 
camp  on  Brule,  and  stopped  at  night  in  a  narrow  valley,  between 
the  hills. 

2Sth. — Towards  noon  to-day,  we  lost  tho  trail  among  the 
hills,  and  although  considerable  search  was  made,  we  were  not 
able  to  find  it  again.  We  then  directed  our  course  due  north, 
and  at  2  o'clock  struck  Powder  river,  a  narrow  and  shallow 
stream,  plentifully  fringed  with  willows.     We  passed  down  this 


ArnoSil   TUB    noCKV    MOWNTAINS,  FTC. 


H-i 


river  for  about  fivo  miles  and  cncnmpcd.  Cnptain  W.  imme- 
diately IoH  us  to  look  for  th«i  lost  trail,  and  returned  in  about 
two  hours,  with  tho  informa.ioi!  that  no  trace  of  it  could  b« 
found.  lie  therefore  concludes  that  it  is  up  stream,  and  to-mor- 
row wo  travel  bock  to  search  for  it  in  thnt  direction.  Our  men 
killed,  in  the  afternoon,  an  antelo|)o  and  a  dcftr  fawn,  which  were 
particularly  acceptable  to  UH ;  wo  had  boon  on  an  allowance  of 
one  dried  salmon  per  day,  and  we  had  begun  to  fear  that  even 
this  poor  pittance  would  fail  befoio  wf  ojiild  obtain  other  provi- 
sion. Game  has  been  exceedingly  scarce,  with  tho  exception  of 
a  few  grouse,  pigeons,  &:c.  VVo  have  not  sotn  a  deer,  antolo|K<, 
or  any  other  quadruped  larger  than  a  hare,  since  wo  left  the 
confines  of  the  buftulo  country.  Karly  this  morning,  one  of  our 
men,  named  Hubbard,  loft  us  to  hunt,  and  as  he  has  not  joined 
us  thi'  evening,  we  fear  he  is  lost,  ond  feel  some  onxicty  about 
him,  as  he  has  not  iKicn  accustomed  to  finding  his  wuy  through 
the  pathless  wilds.  He  is  n  good  marksman,  however,  and  will 
not  suffer  much  for  food;  and  as  he  knows  the  general  course,  he 
will  probably  join  us  at  Waila-wolla,  if  we  should  not  see  him 
earlier. 

2Qth. — We  commenced  our  march  early  this  morning,  follow- 
ing the  river  to  a  point  about  six  miles  above  where  we  struck  it 
yesterday.  VVo  then  took  to  the  hills,  steering  N.  N.  VV., — it 
being  impossible,  from  the  broken  state  of  the  country,  to  keep 
the  river  bank. 

Soon  after  wc  commenced  the  ascent,  wo  met  with  difficulties 
in  the  shape  of  high,  steep,  banks,  and  deep  ravines,  the  ground 
being  thickly  strewed  with  sharp,  angular  masses  of  lava  and  ba- 
salt. As  we  proceedod,  those  difficulties  increased  to  such  a  de- 
gree, as  to  occasion  a  fear  that  our  horses  could  never  proceed. 
The  hills  at  length  became  like  a  consolidated  mass  of  irregular 
rock,  and  the  small  strips  of  earthy  matter  that  ocasionaliy  ap- 
peared, were  burst  into  wide  fissures  by  the  desiccation  to  which 

19 


146 


NABRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


the  country  at  this  season  is  subject.  Sometimes,  as  we  ap- 
proached the  verges  of  the  clifTs,  we  could  see  the  river  winding 
its  devious  course  many  hundred  feet  below,  rushing  and  foam- 
ing in  eddies  and  whirlpools,  and  fretting  against  the  steep  sides 
of  the  rocks,  which  hemmed  it  in.  These  are  what  are  called 
the  cut-rocks,  the  sides  of  which  are  in  many  places  as  smooth 
and  regular  as  though  they  had  been  worked  with  the  chisel,  and 
the  opening  between  them,  through  which  the  river  flows,  is  fre- 
quently so  narrow  that  a  biscuit  might  be  thrown  across  it. 

We  travelled  over  these  rocks  until  1  o'clock  in  the  day, 
when  we  stopped  to  rest  in  a  small  ravine,  where  we  found  a 
little  water,  and  pasture  for  our  horses.  At  3,  we  were  again 
on  the  move,  making  across  the  hills  towards  the  river,  and  after 
a  long,  circuitous  march,  wc  arrived  on  its  banks,  considerably 
wearied,  and  every  horse  in  our  band  lamed  and  completely 
exhausted.  We  have  not  yet  found  any  clue  to  the  trail  for  which 
we  have  been  searching  so  anxiously ;  indeed  it  would  be  im- 
possible for  a  distinguishable  trace  to  be  left  over  these  rugged, 
stony  hills,  and  the  difficulty  of  finding  it,  or  determining  its  di- 
rection is  not  a  little  increased  by  a  dense  fog  which  constantly 
envelopes  these  regions,  obscuring  the  sun,  and  rendering  it  im- 
possible to  see  an  object  many  hundred  yards  in  advance. 

The  next  day  we  were  still  travelling  over  the  high  and  steep 
hills,  which,  fortunately  for  our  poor  horses,  were  far  less 
stony  than  hitherto.  At  about  noon  we  descended  to  the  plain, 
and  struck  the  river  in  the  midst  of  a  large  level  prairie.  We 
proceeded  up  stream  for  an  hour,  and  to  our  great  joy  suddenly 
came  in  sight  of  a  broad,  open  trail  stretching  away  to  the  S.  W. 
"We  felt,  in  some  degree,  the  pleasure  of  a  sailor  who  has  found 
the  port  of  which  he  has  been  long  and  anxiously  in  search. 
We  made  a  noon  camp  here,  at  which  we  remained  two  hours, 
and  then  travelled  on  in  fine  spirits  over  a  beautiful,  level,  and 
unobstructed  country.     Our  horses  seemed  to  participate  in  our 


ACROSS    TUB   BOCKY    MOUNTAINS,   ETC. 


147 


fucliiigs,  and  trotted  on  briskly,  as  though  they  too  rcjo  iced  in 
thn  opportunity  of  escaping  the  dreaded  hills  and  rocks.  To- 
wards evening  we  crossed  a  single  range  of  low  hills  and  came 
to  a  Hmall  round  prairie,  with  good  water  and  excellent  pasture. 
Here  wo  found  a  family  of  Kayouse  Indians,  and  encamped 
witi.in  bight  of  them.  Two  squaws  from  this  family,  visited  us 
soon  after,  bringing  some  large  kamas  cakes  and  fermented  roots, 
which  wo  purchased  of  them. 

31«^ — Our  route  this  morning,  was  over  a  country  generally 
level  and  free  from  rocks ;  we  crossed,  however,  one  short,  and 
very  steep  mountain  range,  thickly  covered  with  tall  and  heavy 
pino  trees,  and  came  to  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie,  calletl  the 
Grand  ronde.  Here  we  found  Captain  Bonneville's  company, 
which  has  been  lying  here  several  days,  waiting  the  arrival  of 
its  trapping  parties.  We  made  a  noon  camp  near  it,  and  were 
visited  by  Captain  Bonneville.  This  was  the  first  time  I  had 
scon  this  gentleman.  His  manners  were  affable  and  pleasing, 
and  he  seemed  possessed  of  a  large  share  of  bold,  adventurous, 
and,  to  a  certain  extent,  romantic  spirit,  without  which  no  man 
can  expect  to  thrive  as  a  mountain  leader.  He  stated  that  he 
preferred  the  "  free  and  easy"  life  of  a  mountain  hunter  and 
trapper,  to  the  comfortable  and  luxurious  indolence  of  a  dweller 
in  civilized  lands,  and  would  not  exchange  his  homely,  but 
wholosome  mountain  fare,  and  his  buffalo  lodge,  fo::  the  most 
piquant  dishes  of  the  French  artiste,  and  the  finest  palace  in 
the  land.  This  came  well  from  him,  and  I  was  pleased  with  it, 
although  1  could  not  altogether  agree  with  him  in  sentiment, 
for  1  confess  I  had  become  somewhat  weary  of  rough  travelling 
and  rough  faro,  and  looked  forward  with  no  little  pleasure  to 
a  long  rest  under  a  Christian  roof,  and  a  general  participation 
in  Christian  living. 

Witii  the  captain,  came  a  whole  troop  of  Indians,  Kayouse, 


148 


NABUATIVE    01'    A    JOUItlVEY 


Nez  Perces,  &c.  They  were  very  friendly  towards  us,  ctich  of 
the  chiefs  taking  us  by  the  hand  with  great  cordiality,  appearing 
pleased  to  see  us,  and  anxious  to  point  out  to  us  the  easiest  and 
most  expeditious  route  to  the  lower  country.  These  Indians  are, 
almost  universally,  fine  looking,  robust  men,  with  strong  aqualine 
features,  and  a  much  more  cheerful  cast  of  countenance  than  is 
usual  amongst  the  race.  Some  of  the  women  might  almost  be 
called  beautiful,  and  none  that  I  have  seen  are  homely.  Their 
dresses  are  generally  of  thin  deer  or  antelope  skin,  with  occa- 
sionally a  boddice  of  some  linen  stuffs,  purchased  from  the 
whites,  and  their  whole  appearance  is  neat  and  cleanly,  forming  a 
very  striking  contrast  to  the  greasy,  filthy,  and  disgusting  Snake 
females.  I  observed  one  young  and  very  pretty  looking  woraan> 
dressed  in  a  great  superabundance  of  finery,  glittering  with  rings 
and  beads,  and  flaunting  in  broad  bands  of  scarlet  cloth.  She 
was  mounted  astride, — Indian  fashion, — upon  a  fine  bay  horse, 
whose  head  and  tail  were  decorated  with  scarlet  and  blue  ribbons, 
and  the  saddle,  upon  which  the  fair  one  sat,  was  ornamented  all 
over  with  beads  and  little  hawk's  bells.  This  damsel  did  not  do 
us  the  honor  to  dismount,  but  seemed  to  keep  warily  aloof,  as 
though  she  feared  that  some  of  us  might  be  inordinately  fascinated 
by  her  fine  person  and  splendid  equipments,  and  her  whole  de- 
portment proved  to  us,  pretty  satisfactorily,  that  she  was  no 
common  beauty,  but  the  favored  companion  of  one  high  in  ofiice, 
who  was  jealous  of  her  slightest  movement. 

Afler  making  a  hasty  meal,  and  bidding  adieu  to  the  captain, 
and  our  friendly  Indian  visitors,  we  mounted  our  horses,  and 
rode  v-flT.  About  half  an  hour's  brisk  trotting  brought  us  to  the 
foot  of  a  steep  and  high  mountain,  called  the  Blue.  This  is 
said  to  be  the  most  extensive  chain  west  of  the  dividing  ridge, 
and,  with  one  exception,  perhaps  the  most  difficult  of  passag ;_ 
The  whole  mountain  is  densely  covered  with  tall  pine  trees,  with 


I 


ACROSS    THE    noCKV    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


U9 


b  of 
ring 
and 
are, 
iline 
n  is 
t  be 
heir 
cca- 
the 
iga 
lake 
aan> 
ings 
She 
»rse, 
ons, 
all 
tdo 
',  as 
ited 
de- 
no 
ice, 

lin, 
ind 
the 

is 

ge. 

£■'. 
ith 


an  undergrowth  of  service  bushes  and  other  shrubs,  and  the  path 
is  strewed,  to  a  very  inconvenient  degree,  with  volcanic  rocks. 
In  some  of  the  ravines  we  find  small  springs  of  water;  they  are, 
however,  rather  rare,  and  the  grass  has  been  lately  consumed, 
and  many  of  the  trees  blasted  by  the  ravaging  fires  of  the  In- 
dians. These  fires  are  yet  smouldering,  and  the  smoke  from 
them  effectually  prevents  our  viewing  the  surrounding  country, 
and  completely  obscures  the  beams  of  the  sun.  We  travelled 
this  evening  until  after  dark,  and  encamped  on  a  small  stream  in 
a  gorge,  where  we  found  a  plot  of  grass  that  had  escaped  the 
burning. 

September  1st. — Last  evening,  as  we  were  about  retiring  to 
our  beds,  we  heard,  distinctly,  as  we  thought,  a  loud  halloo, 
several  times  repeated,  and  in  a  tone  like  that  of  a  man  in  great 
distress.  Supposing  it  to  be  a  person  who  had  lost  his  way  in 
the  darkness,  and  was  searching  for  us,  we  fired  several  guns  at 
regular  intervals,  but  as  they  elicited  no  reply,  after  waiting  a 
considerable  time,  we  built  a  large  fire,  as  a  guide,  and  lay  down 
to  sleep. 

Early  this  morning,  a  large  panther  was  seen  prowling  around 
our  camp,  and  the  hallooing  of  last  night  was  explained.  It  was 
the  dismal,  distressing  yell  by  which  this  animal  entices  its  prey, 
until  pity  or  curiosity  induces  it  to  approach  to  its  destruction. 
The  panther  is  said  to  inhabit  these  forests  in  considerable  num- 
bers, and  has  not  unfrequently  been  known  to  kill  the  horses  of 
a  camp.  He  has  seldom  the  temerity  to  attack  a  man,  unless 
sorely  pressed  by  hunger,  or  infuriated  by  wounds. 


\^1 


150 


NARRATIVE    OF    A    JOVRNEV 


CHAPTER   IX. 

Passage  of  the  Blue  Mountains— Sufferings  from  thirst — Utalla  river — A 
transformation — A  novel  meal— Walla-waltu  river — Columbia  river  and  Fort 
Walla-walla — A  dinner  with  the  missionaries — Anecdote  of  Mr.  Lee— A 
noble  repast — Britf  notice  of  the  Fort — Departure  qf  the  missionanes—JVotice 
of  the  Walla-walla  Indians — Departure  for  Fort  Vancouver — Wild  ducks — 
Indian  graves — Indian  horses — Visits  from  Indians — Ophthalmia,  aprevalent 
disease — Rough  travelling — A  company  of  Chinook  Indians — The  Dalles— 
The  party  joined  by  Captain  Wyeth — Embarkation  in  canoes — A  heavy 
gale— Dangerous  navigation — Pusillanimous  conduct  of  an  Indian  helms- 
man— A  zealous  botanist — Departure  of  Captain  JVyeth  with  five  me7i — 
Cascades — A  jjortage—Jlteeting  tvilh  the  missionaries — Loss  of  a  canoe — A 
toilsome  duty — Arrival  at  Fort  Vancouver —reflections  suggested  by  it — Dr. 
John  McLaughlin,  the  chief  factor — Domiciliation  of  the  travellers  at  Fort 
Vancouver. 

September  1st. — The  path  through  the  valley,  in  which  we 
encamped  last  night,  was  level  and  smooth  for  about  a  mile;  we 
then  mounted  a  short,  steep  hill,  and  began  immediately  to  descend. 
The  road  down  the  mountain  wound  constantly,  and  we  travelled 
in  short,  zig-zag  lines,  in  order  to  avoid  the  extremely  abrupt  decli- 
vities; but  occasionally,  we  were  compelled  to  descend  in  places 
that  made  us  pause  before  making  the  attempt :  they  were,  some  of 
them,  almost  perpendicular,  and  our  horses  would  frequently  slide 
several  yards,  before  they  could  recover.  To  this  must  be  added 
cnoi'mous  jagged  masses  of  rock,  obstructing  the  road  in  many 
places,  and  pine  trees  projecting  their  horizontal  branches  across 
the  path. 

The  road  continued,  as  I  have  described  it,  to  the  valley  in 
the  plain,  and  a  full  hour  was  consumed  before  we  reached  it. 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKT   MOUNTAINS,   KTC. 


151 


The  country  then  became  comparatively  level  again  to  the  next 
range,  where  a  mountain  was  to  be  ascended  of  the  same  height 
as  the  last.  Here  we  dismounted  and  led  our  horses,  it  being 
impracticable,  in  their  present  state,  to  ride  them.  It  was  the 
most  toilsome  march  I  ever  made,  and  we  were  all  so  much  fatigued, 
when  we  arrived  at  the  summit,  that  rest  was  as  indispensable  to  us 
as  to  our  poor  jaded  horses.  Here  we  made  a  noon  camp,  with 
a  handful  of  grass  and  no  water.  This  last  article  appears  very 
scarce,  the  ravines  affording  none,  and  our  dried  salmon  and 
kamas  bread  were  eaten  unmoistcned.  The  route,  in  the  after- 
noon, was  over  the  top  of  the  mountain,  the  road  tolerably  level, 
but  crowded  with  stones.  Towards  evening,  we  commenced 
descending  again,  and  in  every  ravine  and  gulley  we  cast  our 
anxious  eyes  in  search  of  water ;  we  even  explored  several  of 
them,  where  there  appeared  to  exist  any  probability  of  success, 
but  not  one  drop  did  we  find.  Night  at  length  came  on,  dark 
and  pitchy,  without  a  moon  or  a  single  star  to  give  us  a  ray  of 
light;  but  still  we  proceeded,  depending  solely  upon  the  vision 
and  sagacity  of  our  horses  to  keep  the  track.  We  travelled 
steadily  until  about  9  o'clock,  when  we  saw  ahead  the  dark  out- 
line of  a  high  mountain,  and  soon  after  heard  the  men  who  rode 
in  front,  cry  out,  joyously,  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  "water/ 
water!"  It  was  truly  a  cheering  sound,  and  the  words  were 
echoed  loudly  by  every  man  in  the  company.  We  had  not 
tasted  water  since  morning,  and  both  horses  and  men  have  been 
suffering  considerably  for  the  want  of  it. 

2d. — Captain  W.  and  two  men,  left  us  early  this  morning  for 
Walla-walla,  where  they  expect  to  arrive  this  evening,  and  send 
us  some  provision,  of  which  we  shall  be  in  need,  to-morrow. 

Our  camp  moved  soon  after,  under  the  direction  of  Captain 
Thing,  and  in  about  four  miles  reached  Utalla  river,  where  it 
stopped,  and  remained  until  12  o'clock. 

As  we  were  approaching  so  near  the  abode  of  those  in  whose 


,1 


152 


NAHKATIVE   OF   A   JOUHNF.Y 


eyes  \vc  wished  to  appear  like  fellow  Christians,  wc  concluded 
that  there  would  be  a  propriety  in  attempting  to  remove  at  least 
one  of  the  heathenish  badges  which  we  had  worn  throughout  the 
journey;  so  Mr.  N.'s  razor  was  fished  out  from  its  hiding  place 
in  the  bottom  of  his  trunk,  and  in  a  few  minutes  our  encumbered 
chins  lost  their  long-cherished  ornaments ;  we  performed  our 
ablutions  in  the  river,  arrayed  ourciclves  in  clean  linen,  trimmed 
our  long  hair,  and  then  arranged  our  toilet  before  a  mirror,  with 
great  self-complacence  and  satisfaction.  I  admired  my  own 
appearance  considerably,  (and  this  is,  probably,  an  acknowledge- 
ment that  few  would  make,)  but  I  could  not  refrain  from  laugh- 
ing at  the  strange,  party-colored  appearance  of  my  physiognomy, 
the  lower  portion  being  fair,  like  a  woman's,  and  the  upper, 
brown  and  swarthy  as  an  Indian.  < 

Having  nothing  prepared  for  dinner  to-day,  I  strolled  along 
the  stream  above  the  camp,  and  made  a  meal  on  rose  buds,  of 
which  I  collected  an  abundance ;  and  on  returning,  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  Mr.  N.  and  Captain  T.  picking  the  last  boacs  of 
a  bird  which  they  had  cooked.  Upon  inquiry,  I  ascertained 
that  the  subject  was  an  unfortunate  owl  which  I  had  killed  in 
the  morning,  and  had  intended  to  preserve,  as  a  specimen.  The 
temptation  was  too  great  to  be  resisted  by  the  hungry  Captain 
and  naturalist,  and  the  bird  of  wisdom  lost  the  immortality  which 
he  might  otherwise  have  acquired. 

In  the  afternoon,  soon  after  leaving  the  Utalla,  we  ascended 
a  high  and  very  steep  hill,  and  came  immediately  in  view  of  a 
beautiful,  and  regularly  undulating  country  of  great  extent.  We 
have  now  probably  done  with  high,  rugged  mountains;  the 
sun  shines  clear,  the  air  is  bracing  and  elastic,  and  we  are  all  in 
fine  spirits.    .  • 

The  next  day,  the  road  being  generally  level,  and  tolerably 
free  from  stones,  we  were  enabled  to  keep  our  horses  at  the 
swiftest  gate  to  which  we  dare  urj^e  them.     We  have  been  some- 


n 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY   MOVMTAIMd,  UTO. 


188 


what  disappointod  in  not  receiving  tho  ox|)ectud  suppliciH  i'roiri 
Walla-walla,  but  have  not  sufTercd  for  provision,  oh  thii  gruuMO 
and  hares  are  very  abundant  here,  and  we  havQ  whot  M  uiUliy 
as  we  wished. 

At  alKJut  r'  'e  struck  tho  Walla-walla  river,  a  very  protty 
strcan  fifty'  xty  yards  in  width,  1  uv,;r.  v/ith  tall  wiIIown, 
and  containing  a  number  of  salmon,  which  we  can  seo  froquontly 
leaping  from  the  water.  The  pasture  here,  being  good,  wo  til- 
lowed  our  horses  an  hour's  rest  to  feed,  and  then  travollod  on 
over  the  plain,  until  near  dark,  when,  on  rising  a  Niindy  hill, 
the  noble  Columbia  burst  at  once  upon  our  view.  I  could 
scarcely  repress  a  loud  exclamation  of  delight  and  plfjasuru,  n»  I 
gazed  upon  the  magnificent  river,  flowing  silently  and  n)fij»ii(ti* 
cally  on,  and  reflected  that  I  had  actually  crossed  tho  vost  Ame- 
rican continent,  and  now  stood  upon  a  stream  that  poured  its 
waters  directly  into  the  Pacific.  This,  then,  was  the  groat  Ore- 
gon, the  first  appearance  of  which  gave  Lewis  ond  Cliirk  no 
many  emotions  of  joy  and  pleasure,  and  on  this  stream  our  in- 
defatigable countrymen  wintered,  after  the  toils  and  prIvutionN  of 
a  long,  and  protracted  journey  through  the  wilderness.  My  re- 
verie was  suddenly  interrupted  by  one  of  the  men  oxelailiiillg 
from  his  position  in  advance,  "  there  is  the  fort."  Wo  had,  in 
truth  approached  very  near,  without  being  conscious  of  it. 
There  stood  the  fort  on  the  bank  of  the  river;  horses  and  horned 
cattle  were  roaming  about  the  vicinity,  and  on  the  borderN  of  tho 
little  Walla-walla,  we  recognised  the  white  tent  of  our  long  lost 
missionaries.  These  we  soon  joined,  and  were  met  and  received 
by  them  like  brethren.  Mr..N.  and  myself  were  invited  to  Hiip 
with  thom  upon  a  dish  of  stewed  hares  which  they  had  juwt  pre- 
pared, and  it  is  almost  needless  to  say  that  we  did  ftjll  justice  to 
the  good  men's  cookery.  They  told  us  that  they  had  travelled 
comfortably  from  Fort  Hall,  without  any  unusual  fatigue,  ond 

like  ourselves,  had  no  particularly  stirring  adventures.     Their 

20 


154 


NARRATIVE   OP    A    JOIIRNKY 


route,  although  somcwJmt  longer,  was  a  much  less  toilsome  and 
difficult  one,  and  they  suffered  but  lif'a  for  food,  being  well  pro- 
vided with  dried  bulT  "o  meat,  which  had  been  prepared  near 
Fort  Hall. 

Mr.  Walker,  (a  young  gentleman  attached  to  the  band,)  re- 
lated an  anecdote  of  Mr.  Loc,  the  principal,  which  I  thought 
eminently  characteristic.  The  missionaries  were,  on  one  occa- 
sion, at  a  considerable  distance  behind  the  main  body,  and  had 
stopped  for  a  few  moments  to  regale  themselves  on  a  cup  of  milk 
from  a  cow  which  they  weie  driving.  Mr.  L.  had  unstrapped 
the  tin  pan  from  his  saddle,  and  was  about  applying  himself  to 
the  task,  when  a  band  of  a  dozen  Indians  was  descried  at  a  dis- 
tance, approaching  the  little  party  at  full  gallop.  There  was  but 
little  time  for  consideration.  The  rifles  were  looked  to,  the 
horses  were  mounted  in  eager  haste,  and  all  were  ready  for  a 
long  run,  except  Mr.  Leo  himself,  who  declared  that  nothing 
should  deprive  Mm  of  his  cup  of  milk,  and  that  he  meant  to 
"  lighten  the  .  sow  before  he  moved."  He  accordingly  pro- 
ceeded coolly  tu  fill  his  tin  pan,  and,  ailer  a  hearty  drink, 
grasped  his  rifle,  and  mounted  his  horse,  at  the  very  moment 
that  the  Indians  had  arrived  to  within  speaking  distance.  To 
the  great  relief  of  most  of  the  party,  these  proved  to  be  of  the 
friendly  Nez  Perce  tribe,  and  after  a  cordial  greeting,  they  tra- 
velled on  together.  '' 

The  missionaries  informed  us  that  they  had  engaged  a  large 
barge  to  convey  themselves  and  baggage  to  Fort  Vancouver,  and 
that  Captain  Stewart  and  Mr.  Ashworth  were  to  be  of  the  party. 
Mr.  N.  and  myself  were  very  anxious  to  take  a  scat  with  them, 
but  to  our  disappointment,  were  told  that  the  boat  would  scarcely 
accommodate  those  already  engaged.  We  had  therefore  to  re- 
linquish it,  and  prepare  for  a  journey  on  horseback  to  the  Dalles, 
about  eighty  miles  below,  to  which  place  Captain  W.  would 


ACROSS    THE    ROCKV    MOrNTAII»S,  RTC. 


iflr. 


precede  H8  in  the  barge,  aiid  engage  canoes  to  convey  us  to  the 
lower  fort. 

This  evening,  we  purchased  a  large  bag  of  Indian  meal,  of 
which  we  made  a  kettle  of  mush,  and  mixed  with  it  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  horse  tallow  and  salt.  This  was,  I  think, 
one  of  the  best  meals  I  ever  made.  We  all  ate  heartily  of  it, 
and  pronounced  it  princely  food.  We  had  been  long  without 
bread  stuff  of  any  kind,  and  the  coarsest  farinaceous  substance, 
with  a  proper  allowuncc  of  grease,  would  have  been  highly 
prized. 

The  next  morning,  we  visited  Walla-walla  Fort,  and  were 
introduced,  by  Captain  W.,  to  Lieutenant  Pierre  S.  Pambrun, 
the  superintendent.  Wyeth  and  Mr.  Pambrun  had  met  before, 
and  were  well  acquainted ;  they  had,  therefore,  many  reminis- 
cences of  by-gone  days  to  recount,  and  long  conversations,  rela- 
tive to  the  variety  of  incidents  which  had  occurred  to  each,  since 
last  they  parted. 

The  fort  is  built  of  drift  logs,  and  surrounded  by  a  stoccadc  of 
the  same,  with  two  bastions,  and  a  gallery  around  the  inside. 
It  stands  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  river,  on  the  south 
bank,  in  a  bleak  and  unprotected  situation,  surrounded  on  every 
side  by  a  great,  sandy  plain,  which  supports  little  vegetation, 
except  the  wormwood  and  thorn-bushes.  On  the  banks  of  the 
little  river,  however,  there  are  narrow  strips  of  rich  soil,  and 
here  Mr.  Pambrun  raises  the  few  garden  vegetables  necessary 
for  the  support  of  hifi  family.  Potatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  &,c., 
thrive  well,  and  Indian  corn  produces  eighty  bushels  to  the 
acre. 

At  about  10  o'clock,  the  barge  got  under  way,  and  soon  after, 
our  company  with  its  baggage,  crossed  the  river  in  canoes,  and 
encamped  on  the  opposite  shore. 

There  is  a  considerable  number  of  Indians  rcf^ident  hero, 
Kayouse's  and  a  collateral  band  of  the  same  tribe,  called  Walla- 


% 


3 

"-is: 


156 


NARRATIVE   OF  A  J0UR1VRT 


wallas.  They  live  olong  the  bank  of  the  rivor,  in  shantys  or 
wigwoms  of  drift  wood,  covered  with  buffalo  or  deer  skins. 
They  are  a  miserable,  squalid  looking  people,  are  constantly 
lolling  around  and  in  the  f  >rt,  and  annoy  visitors  by  the  impor- 
tunate manner  in  which  they  endeavor  to  force  them  into  some 
petty  trade  for  a  pipe,  a  bare,  or  a  grouse.  All  the  industrious 
and  enterprising  men  of  this  tribe  are  away  trading  salmon, 
kamas  root,  &c.  to  the  mountain  companies.  'i 

Notwithstanding  the  truly  wretched  plight  in  which  these  poor 
people  live,  and  the  privations  which  they  must  necessarily  have 
to  suffer,  they  are  said  to  be  remarkably  honest  and  upright  in 
their  dealings,  and  generally  correct  in  their  moral  deportment. 
Although  they  doubtless  have  the  acquisitive  qualities  so 
characteristic  of  the  race,  they  are  rarely  known  to  violate  the 
principles  of  common  honesty.  A  man  may  leave  his  tent 
unguarded,  and  richly  stored  with  every  thing  which  ordinarily 
excites  the  cupidity  of  the  Indian,  yet,  on  returning  allcr  a  long 
absence,  he  may  find  all  safe.  What  a  commentary  is  this  on 
the  habits  and  conduct  of  our  Christian  communities! 

The  river  is  here  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width, — a 
clear,  deep,  and  rapid  stream,  tlie  current  being  generally  from 
three  to  four  miles  an  liour.  It  is  the  noblest  looking  river  I 
have  seen  since  leaving  our  Delaware.  The  banks  arc  in  many 
places  high  and  rocky,  occasionally  interrupted  by  broad,  level 
sandy  beaches.  The  only  vegetation  along  the  margin,  is  the 
wormwood,  and  other  low,  arid  plants,  but  some  of  the  bottoms 
are  covered  with  heavy,  rank  grass,  affording  excellent  pasture 
for  horses. 

5th. — This  morning  we  commenced  our  march  down  the  Colum- 
bia. We  have  no  provision  with  us  except  flour  and  horse  tallow,  but 
wo  have  little  doubt  of  meeting  Indians  daily,  with  whom  we  can 
trade  for  fish.    "Our  road  will  now  bo  a  rather  monotonous  one 


AC'RORB  THE  HOCKV  MOUWTAIUM,  KtC. 


ir,7 


along  tho  bnnk  of  the  river,  tolerably  Invul,  l»iit  often  ro<!ky, 
■o  lliiit  very  rapid  travelling  is  inadmiHHiblo.  The  tnnllurd  duck, 
tho  widgeon,  and  the  green-winged  teal  are  tolerably  nbundont  in 
tho  little  cstuorics  of  tho  river.  Our  men- have  killed  HovornI,  but 
they  are  poor,  and  not  good. 

W/A.— Wo  have  observed  to-day  Hovoral  high,  conical  Ktacks 
of  drift-wood  near  tho  river.  These  are  the  graven  of  the 
Indians.  Some  of  these  cemcterieH  are  of  conHiderable  extent, 
and  probably  contain  a  great  number  of  bodioN.  I  had  the 
curioNity  to  peep  into  several  of  them,  and  cvcsn  to  remove  some 
of  th(!  coverings,  but  found  nothing  to  compen»at(!  for  the  trouble. 

We  bought  some  salmon  from  Indians  whom  we  met  to  day, 
which,  with  our  flour  and  tallow,  enable  us  to  live  very 
comfortably. 

1th. — We  fre»7uently  fall  in  with  large  bandn  of  Indian  horses. 
There  are  among  ihcm  some  very  beautiful  nnimaln,  but  they  are 
generally  almost  as  wild  as  deer,  seldom  pernutting  an  approach  to 
within  a  hundred  yards  or  more.  They  gfiMirally  have  owners. 
Of)  we  observe  upon  many  of  them  strange  hieroglyphic  looking 
characters,  but  there  are  no  doubt  some  that  huv(!  never  known 
tho  bit,  and  will  probably  always  roam  tho  prairie  uncontrolled. 
When  the  Indians  wish  to  catch  a  horse  from  on<t  of  tlieso  bands, 
tluty  adopt  the  same  plan  pursued  by  the  Houtii  Americans 
for  taking  the  wild  animal. 

Hlh, — Our  road  to-day  has  been  less  monotonous,  and  much 
more  hilly  than  hitherto.  Along  the  bank  of  the  riv<!r,  are  high 
mountoins,  composed  of  basaltic  rock  and  sand,  and  along  their 
bases  enormous  drifts  of  the  latter  material.  Large,  rocky  pro- 
montories connected  with  these  mountains  extend  into  the  river 
to  considerable  distances,  and  numerous  islands  of  the  name  dot 
its  surface. 

We  arc  visited   frequently  as  we  travel  along,  by  Indians  of 


'4    ':f 


^ 


j 


mi 


irr 


0' 


f«0 


NARRATIVE    OF   A   JOVRNRY 


tho  Wnlln-wnlln  and  other  tribos,  whose  wigwams  wo  sec  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  As  we  approach  these  rude  huts, 
the  inhabitants  nro  seen  to  come  forth  in  a  body  ;  a  canoe  is  im- 
mediately launched,  tho  light  bark  siiims  tho  water  liice  a  bird, 
and  in  an  incredibly  short  time  its  inmates  are  with  us.  Some- 
times a  few  salmon  are  brought  to  barter  for  our  tobacco,  paint, 
&c.,  but  more  frequently  they  seem  impelled  to  the  visit  by  mere 
curiosity.  To-day  a  considerable  number  have  visited  us,  and 
among  them  some  very  handsome  young  girls.  I  could  not  but 
admire  the  gaiety  and  cheerfulness  which  seemed  to  animate 
them.  They  were  in  high  spirits,  and  evidently  very  much  pleased 
with  the  unusual  privilege  which  they  were  enjoying. 

At  our  camp  in  tho  evening,  eight  Walla-walla's  came  to  see 
us.  The  chief  was  a  remarkably  fine  looking  man,  but  he,  as 
well  as  several  of  his  party,  was  suffering  from  a  severe  puru- 
lent ophthalmia  which  had  almost  deprived  him  of  sight.  He 
pointed  to  his  eyes,  and  contorting  his  features  to  indicate  the 
pain  ho  suffered,  asked  me  by  signs  to  give  him  medicine  to  cure 
him.  I  was  very  sorry  that  my  small  stock  of  simples  did  not 
contain  anything  suited  to  his  complaint,  and  I  endeavored  to  tell 
him  so.  I  havo  observed  that  this  disease  is  rather  prevalent 
among  the  Indians  residing  on  the  river,  and  I  understood  from 
the  chiefs  signs  that  most  of  the  Indians  towards  the  lower 
country  were  similarly  affected. 

0th. — The  character  of  the  country  has  changed  considerably 
since  we  left  Walla-walla.  The  river  has  become  gradually 
more  narrow,  until  it  is  now  but  about  two  hundred  yards  in 
width,  and  completely  hemmed  in  by  enormous  rocks  on  both 
sides.  Many  of  these  extend  for  considerable  distances  into  the 
stream  in  perpendicular  columns,  and  the  water  dashes  and 
breaks  against  them  until  all  around  is  foam.  The  current  is 
here  very  swift,  probably  six  or  seven  miles  to  the  hour;  and  the  , 


.  W.-i. 


AUHOBM    THE    ROCKY    MOl'NTAIN»,  ETC. 


100 


IS 

the 


Indian  canoes  in  passing  down,  seem  literally  to  fy  along  its 
Hurfaco.  The  road  to-day  has  been  ruggod  to  the  vnry  last 
degree.  We  liavo  passed  over  continuous  masses  of  sharp  rock 
for  hours  tof^cther,  sometimes  picking  our  way  along  the  very 
edge  of  tho  river,  several  hundred  feet  above  it ;  again,  gaining 
the  back  land,  by  passing  through  any  caHual  chasm  or  opening 
in  tho  rocks,  whore  wo  were  compelled  to  dismount,  and  lendoia 
horses. 

This  evening,  wo  are  surrounded  by  u  largo  compo  y  of 
Chinook  Indians,  of  both  sexes,  whoso  temporary  vigwar.i.  ore 
on  tho  bank  of  the  river.  Many  of  the  sq'viws  hav  young 
children  served  up  in  the  usual  Indian  fashion,  wrapped  in  a  skin, 
and  tied  firmly  to  a  board,  so  that  nothing  but  tho  head  of  th  r 
little  individual  is  seen. 

These  Indians  arc  very  peaceable  and  friendly.  The  y  hn  o  no 
weapons  except  bows,  and  these  are  used  more  for  amusement  and 
exercise,  than  as  a  means  of  procuring  them  sustenance,  their 
sole  dependence  being  fish  and  beaver,  with  perhaps  a  few  hares 
and  grouse,  which  are  taken  in  traps.  We  traded  with  these  peo- 
ple for  a  few  fish  and  beaver  skins,  and  some  roots,  and  before  we 
retired  for  the  night,  arranged  the  men  in  a  circle,  and  gave 
them  a  smoke  in  token  of  our  friendship. 

10<A. — This  afternoon  wo  reached  the  Dalles.  The  entire 
water  of  the  river  here  flows  through  channels  of  about  fifteen 
feet  in  width,  and  between  high,  perpenoi.i!:.!.'  rocks;  there  are 
several  of  these  channels  at  distances  oi'  from  half  a  mile  to 
one  mile  apart,  and  the  water  foams  and  boils  through  them  like 
an  enormous  cauldron. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  nv  m-  there  is  a  large  Indian  village, 
belonging  to  a  chief  named  Tilki,  and  containing  probably  five 
hundred  wigwams.  As  we  approached,  the  natives  swarmed  like 
bees  to  the  shore,  launched  their  canoes,  and  joined  us  in  a  few 


I 

I 


160 


NARHATIVG   OF   A   JOURNEY 


minutes.  We  were  disappointed  in  not  seeing  Captain  W.  here,  as 
this  was  the  spot  where  we  expected  to  meet  him ;  the  chier, 
however,  told  us  that  we  should  find  him  about  twelve  miles 
below,  at  the  next  village.  We  were  accordingly  soon  on  the 
move  again,  and  urging  our  horses  to  their  fastest  gait,  we 
arrived  about  sunset.  The  captain,  the  chief  of  the  village,  and 
several  other  Indians,  came  out  to  meet  us  and  make  us  welcome. 
Captain  W.  has  been  here  two  days,  and  we  were  pleased  to 
'earn  that  he  had  completed  all  the  necessary  arrangements  for 
transporting  ourselves  and  baggage  to  Vancouver  in  canoes. 
The  route  by  land  is  said  to  be  a  very  tedious  and  difficult  one, 
and,  in  some  places,  almost  impassable,  but  even  were  it  other- 
wise, I  believe  we  should  all  much  prefer  the  water  conveyance, 
as  we  have  become  very  tired  of  riding. 

Since  leaving  the  upper  village  this  aflernoon,  we  have  been 
followed  by  scores  of  Indians  on  foot  and  on  horseback  ;  some 
of  the  animals  carrying  three  at  a  time;  and  although  we  tra- 
velled rapidly,  the  pedestrians  were  seldom  far  behind  us. 

We  have  concluded  to  leave  our  horses  here,  in  charge  of  the 
chief  of  the  village,  who  has  promised  to  attend  to  them  during 
the  winter,  and  deliver  them  to  our  order  in  the  spring.  Captain 
W.  having  been  acquainted  with  this  man  before,  is  willing  to 
trust  him. 

11th. — Early  this  morning,  we  launched  our  three  canoes, 
and  each  being  provided  with  an  Indian,  as  helmsman,  we  ap- 
plied ourselves  to  our  paddles,  and  were  soon  moving  briskly 
down  the  river.  In  about  an  hour  after,  the  wind  came  out 
dead  ahead,  and  although  the  current  was  in  favor,  oir  progress 
was  sensibly  checked.  As  wc  proceeded,  the  wind  rose  to  a 
heavy  gale,  and  the  waves  ran  to  a  prodigious  height.  At  one 
moment  our  frail  bark  danced  upon  the  crest  of  a  wave,  and  at 
the  next,  fell  with  a  surge  into  the  trough  of  the  sea,  and  as  wo 
looked  at  the  swell  before  us,  it  seemed  that  in  an  instant  we 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


161 


muot  inevitably  be  engulphed.  At  such  times,  the  canoe  ahead 
of  us  was  entirely  hidden  from  view,  but  she  was  observed  to 
rise  again  like  a  seagull,  and  hurry  on  into  the  same  danger. 
The  Indian  in  my  canoe  soon  became  completely  frightened;  he 
frequently  hid  his  face  with  his  hands,  and  sang,  ina  low  melancholy 
voice,  a  prayer  which  we  had  often  heard  from  his  people,  while  at 
their  evening  devotions.  As  our  dangers  were  every  moment  in- 
creasing, the  man  became  at  length  absolutely  childish,  and  with  all 
our  persuasion  and  threats,  we  could  not  induce  him  to  lay  his 
paddle  into  the  water.  We  were  all  soon  compelled  to  put  in  shore, 
which  we  did  without  sustaining  any  damage ;  the  boats  were 
hauled  up  high  and  dry,  and  we  concluded  to  remain  in  our 
quarters  until  to  morrow,  or  until  there  was  a  cessation  of  wind. 
In  about  an  hour  it  lulled  a  little,  and  Captain  W.  ordered  the 
boats  to  be  again  launched,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  weather 
a  point  about  five  miles  below,  before  the  gale  again  commenced, 
where  wc  could  lie  by  until  it  should  be  safe  to  proceed.  The 
culm  proved,  as  some  of  us  had  suspected,  a  treacherous  one ; 
in  a  very  few  minutes  after  we  got  under  way,  we  were  con- 
tending with  the  same  difticulties  as  before,  and  again  our  cow- 
ardly helmsman  laid  by  his  paddle  and  began  mumbling  hi? 
prayer.  It  was  too  irritating  to  be  borne.  Our  canoe  had 
swung  round  broad  side  to  the  surge,  and  was  shipping  gallons 
of  water  ot  every  dash. 

At  this  time  it  was  absolutely  necessary  that  every  man  on 
board  should  exert  himself  to  the  utmost  to  head  up  the  canoe 
and  make  the  shore  as  soon  as  possible.  Our  Indian,  however, 
still  sat  with  his  eyes  covered,  the  most  abject  and  contemptible 
looking  thing  I  ever  saw.  Wc  took  him  by  the  shoulders  and 
threatened  to  throw  him  overboard,  if  he  did  not  immediately 
lend  his  assistance :  we  might  as  well  have  spoken  to  a  stone. 
Ilo  wos  finally  aroused,  however,  by  our  presenting  a  loaded 

gun  at  his  breast ;  he  dashed  the  muzzle  away,  seized  his  paddle 

21 


i 


162 


NARRATIVE   OF   A  JOURNEY 


again,  and  worked  with  a  kind  of  desperate  and  wild  energy, 
until  he  sank  back  in  the  canoe  completely  exhausted.  In  the 
mean  time  the  boat  had  become  half  full  of  water,  shipping  a 
part  of  every  surf  that  struck  her,  and  as  we  gained  the  shallows 
every  man  sprang  overboard,  breast  deep,  and  began  hauling  the 
canoe  to  shore.  This  was  even  a  more  difficult  task  than  that  of 
propelling  her  with  the  oars ;  the  water  still  broke  over  her,  and 
the  bottom  was  a  deep  kind  of  quicksand,  in  which  we  sank 
almost  to  the  knees  at  every  step,  the  surf  at  the  same  time 
dashing  against  us  with  such  violence  as  to  throw  us  repeatedly 
upon  our  faces.  We  at  length  reached  the  shore,  and  hauled 
the  canoe  up  out  of  reach  of  the  breakers.  She  was  then  un- 
loaded as  soon  as  possible,  and  turned  bottom  upwards.  The 
goods  had  suffered  considerably  by  the  wetting ;  they  were  all 
unbaled  and  dried  by  a  large  fire,  which  we  built  on  the  shore. 

We  were  soon  visited  by  several  men  from  the  other  boats, 
which  were  ahead,  and  learned  that  their  situation  had  been 
almost  precisely  similar  to  our  own,  except  that  their  Iixians 
had  not  evinced,  to  so  great  a  degree,  the  same  unmanly  terror 
which  had  rendered  ours  so  inefficient  and  useless.  They  were, 
however,  considerably  frightened,  much  more  so  than  the  white 
men.  It  would  seem  strange  that  It.dians,  who  have  been  born, 
and  have  lived  during  their  whole  lives,  upon  the  edge  of  the 
water,  who  have  been  accustomed,  from  infancy,  to  the  manage- 
ment of  a  canoe,  and  in  whose  childish  sports  and  manly  pas- 
times these  frail  barks  have  always  been  employed,  should  ex- 
hibit, on  occasions  like  this,  such  craven  and  womanly  fears ;  but 
the  probability  is,  as  their  business  is  seldom  of  a  very  urgent 
nature,  that  they  refrain  from  making  excursions  of  any  con- 
siderable extent  in  situations  known  to  be  dangerous,  except 
during  calm  weather ;  it  is  possible,  also,  that  such  gales  may  be 
rare,  and  they  have  not  been  accustomed  to  them.  Immediately 
ailcr  we  landed,  our  redoubtable  helmsman  broke  away  from  us, 


ACROSS   THB   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,   ETC. 


163 


and  ran  at  full  speed  back  towards  the  village.  We  have  doubt* 
less  lost  him  entirely,  but  we  do  not  much  regret  his  departure, 
as  he  proved  himself  so  entirely  unequal  to  the  task  he  had 
undertaken. 

12th. — The  gale  continues  with  the  same  violence  as  yes* 
terday,  and  we  do  not  therefore  think  it  expedient  to  leave 
our  camp.  Mr.  N.'s  large  and  beautiful  collection  of  new  and 
rare  plants  was  considerably  injured  by  the  wetting  it  received ; 
he  has  been  constantly  engaged  since  we  landed  yesterday,  in 
opening  and  drying  them.  In  this  task  he  exhibits  a  degree  of 
patience  and  perseverance  which  is  truly  astonishing  ;  sitting  on 
the  ground,  and  steaming  over  the  enormous  fire,  for  hours  to- 
gether, drying  the  papers,  and  re-arranging  the  whole  collection, 
specimen  by  specimen,  while  the  great  drops  of  perspiration  roll 
unheeded  from  his  brow.  Throughout  the  whole  of  our  long 
journey,  I  have  had  constantly  to  admire  the  ardor  and  perfect 
indefatigability  with  which  he  has  devoted  himself  to  the  grand 
object  of  his  tour.  No  difficulty,  no  danger,  no  fatigue  has  ever 
daunted  him,  and  he  finds  his  rich  reward  in  the  addition  of 
nearly  a  thousand  new  species  of  American  plants,  which  he  has 
been  enabled  to  make  to  the  already  teeming  flora  of  our  vast 
continent.  My  bale  of  birds,  which  was  equally  exposed  to  the 
action  of  the  water,  escaped  without  any  material  injury. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  gale  not  having  abated.  Captain  W.  be- 
came impatient  to  proceed,  as  he  feared  his  business  at  Vancou- 
ver would  suffer  by  delay ;  he  accordingly  proposed  taking  one 
canoe,  and  braving  the  fury  of  the  elements,  saying  that  he  wished 
five  men,  who  were  not  afraid  of  water,  to  accompany  him.  A 
dozen  of  our  fearless  fellows  volunteered  in  a  moment,  and  the 
captain  selecting  such  as  he  thought  would  best  suit  his  purpose, 
lost  no  time  in  launching  his  canoe,  and  away  she  went  over 
the  foaming  waters,  dashing  the  spray  from  her  bows,  and  la- 
boring through  the  heavy  swells  until  she  was  lost  to  our  view. 


164 


NARRATIVE   OP   A    JOURNEY 


t*' 


The  more  sedate  amongst  us  did  not  much  approve  of  this  some* 
what  hasty  measure  of  our  principal ;  it  appeared  like  a  useless 
and  daring  exposure  of  human  life,  not  warranted  by  the  exigen- 
cies of  the  case.  Mr.  N.  remarked  that  he  would  rather  lose  all 
his  plants  than  venture  his  life  in  that  canoe. 

On  the  13th  the  wind  shifted  to  due  north,  and  was  blowing 
somewhat  less  furiously  than  on  the  previous  day.  At  about 
noon  we  loaded  our  canoes,  and  embarked ;  our  progress,  how* 
ever,  during  the  afternoon,  was  slow ;  the  current  was  not  rapid, 
and  the  wind  was  setting  up  stream  so  strongly  that  we  could 
not  make  much  headway  against  it ;  we  had,  also,  as  before,  to 
contend  with  turbulent  waves,  but  we  found  we  could  weather 
them  with  much  less  difficulty,  since  the  change  of  the  wind. 

lAth. — Before  sunrise,  a  light  rain  commenced,  which  in- 
creased towards  mid-duy  to  a  heavy  shower,  and  continued 
steadily  during  the  afternoon  and  night.  There  was,  in  the 
morning,  a  dead  calm,  the  water  was  perfectly  smooth,  and  dis- 
turbed only  by  the  light  rain  pattering  upon  its  surface.  We 
made  an  early  start,  and  proceeded  on  very  expeditiously  until 
about  noon,  when  we  arrived  at  the  "  cascades,"  and  came  to  a 
halt  above  them,  near  a  small  Indian  village.  These  cascades, 
or  cataracts  are  formed  by  a  collection  of  large  rocks,  in  the  bed 
of  the  river,  which  extend,  for  perhaps  half  a  mile.  The  cur- 
rent for  a  short  distance  above  them,  is  exceedingly  rapid,  and 
there  is  said  to  be  a  gradual  fall,  or  declivity  of  the  river,  of 
about  twenty  feet  in  the  mile.  Over  these  rocks,  and  across 
the  whole  river,  the  watei  dashes  and  foams  most  furiously,  and 
with  a  roar  which  we  heard  distinctly  at  the  distance  of  several 
miles. 

It  is  wholly  impossible  for  any  craft  to  make  its  may  through 
these  difficulties,  and  our  light  canoes  would  not  live  an  instant 
in  them.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary  to  make  a  portage,  either  by 
carrying  the»canoes  over  land  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  cataractsi 
or  by  wnding  in  the  water  near  the  shore,  whore  the  surges  are 


ACnOSS   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  RTC. 


165 


lightest,  and  dragging  the  unloaded  boat  through  them  by  a  cable. 
Our  people  chose  the  latter  method,  as  the  canoes  felt  very  heavy 
and  cumbersome,  being  saturated  with  the  rain  which  was  still 
falling  rapidly.     They  were  accordingly  immediately  unloaded, 
the  baggage  placed  on  the  shore,  and  the  men  entered  the  water 
to  their  necks,  headed  by  Captain  Thing,  and  addressed  them- 
selves to  the  troublesome  and  laborious  task.     In  the  meantime, 
Mr.  N.,  and  myself  were  sent  ahead  to  take  the  best  care  of 
ourselves  that  our  situation  and  the  surrounding  circumstances 
permitted.     We  found  a  small  Indian  trail  on  the  river  bank, 
which  we  followed  in  all  its  devious  windings,  up  and  down  hills, 
over  enormous,  piles  of  rough  flinty  rocks,  through  brier  bushes, 
and  pools  of  water,  &c.  &c.,  for  about  a  mile,  and  descending 
near  the  edge  of  the  river,  we  observed  a  number  of  white  men  who 
had  just  succeeded  in  forcing  a  large  barge  through  the  torrent,  and 
were  then  warping  her  into  still  water  near  the  shore.     Upon  ap- 
proaching them  more  closely,  we  recognised,  to  our  astonishment, 
our  old  friend  Captain  Stewart,  with  the  good  missionaries,  and 
all  the  rest  who  left  us  at  Walla-walla  on  the  4th.     Poor  fellows! 
Every  man  of  them  had  been  over  breast  deep  in  water,  and  the 
rain,  which  was  still  falling  in  torrents,  was  more  than  sufficient 
to  drench  what  the  waves  did  not  cover,  so  that  they  were  most 
abundantly  soaked  and  bedraggled.      I   felt  sadly  inclined  to 
laugh  heartily  at  them,  but  a  single  glance  at  the  sorry  appear- 
ance of  myself  and  my  companion  was  sufficient  to  check  the 
feeling.     We  joined  them,  and  aided  in  kindling  a  iire  to  warm 
and  dry  ourselves  a  little,  as  there  was  not  a  dry  rag  on  us,  and 
we  were  all  in  an  ague  with  cold.     After  a  very  considerable 
time,  we  succeeded  in  igniting  the  wet  timber,  and  had  a  tolerably 
large  fire.     We  all  seated  ourselves  on  the  ground  around  it, 
and  related  our  adventures.     They  had,  like  ourselves,  suffered 
somewhat  from  the  head-wind  and  heavy  swells,  but  unlike  us 
they  had  a  craft  that  would  weather  it  easily ;  even  they,  how- 


I 


106 


NARBATIVB  OF  A  JOURNEY 


even,  shipped  some  water,  and  made  very  little  progress  for  the 
last  two  days.  They  informed  us  that  Captain  W.'s  canoe 
had  been  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  above,  and  that 
he  and  all  his  crew  wore  thrown  into  the  water,  and  forced  to 
swim  for  their  lives.  They  all  escaped,  and  proceeded  down  the 
river,  this  morning,  in  a  canoe,  hired  of  the  Indians  here,  one  of 
whom  accompanied  them,  as  pilot. 

After  a  hasty  meal  of  fish,  purchased  on  the  spot,  our  friends 
reloaded  their  boat  and  got  under  way,  hoping  to  reach  Vancou- 
ver by  next  morning.  Mr.  N.  and  myself  remained  some  time 
longer  here,  expecting  intelligence  from  our  people  behind;  we 
had  begun  to  feel  a  little  uneasy  about  them,  and  thought  of  re- 
turning to  look  into  their  situation,  when  Captain  T.  came  in 
haste  towards  us,  with  the  mortifying  intelligence  that  one  canoe 
had  been  stove  upon  the  rocks,  and  the  other  so  badly  split,  that 
he  feared  she  would  not  float ;  the  latter  was,  however,  brought 
on  by  the  men,  and  moored  where  we  had  stopped.  A  man  was 
then  despatched  to  an  Indian  village,  about  five  miles  below,  to 
endeavor  to  procure  one  or  two  canoes  and  a  pilot.  In  the 
mean  time,  we  had  all  to  walk  back  along  the  circuitous  and 
almost  impassable  Indian  trail,  and  carry  our  wet  and  heavy 
baggage  from  the  spot  where  the  boats  had  been  unloaded.  The 
distance,  as  I  have  stated,  was  a  fiiU  mile,  and  the  road  so  rough 
and  encumbered  as  to  be  scarcely  passable.  In  walking  over 
many  of  the  large  and  steep  rocks,  it  was  often  necessary  that 
the  hands  should  be  used  to  raise  and  support  the  body ;  this, 
with  a  load,  was  inconvenient.  Again,  in  ascending  and  de- 
scending the  steep  and  slippery  hills,  a  single  mis-step  was  cer- 
tain to  throw  us  in  the  mud,  and  bruise  us  upon  the  sharp  rocks 
which  were  planted  all  around.  This  accident  occurred  several 
times  with  us  all. 

Over  this  most  miserable  of  all  roads,  with  the  cold  rain  dash- 
ing and  pelting  upon  us  during  the  whole  time,  until  we  felt  as 


ACROSS  THE   ROCKY   MOUIfTAINI,  ETC. 


lOT 


though  we  were  frozen  to  the  very  marrow,  did  wo  all  havo  to 
travel  and  return  four  separate  times,  before  our  boggogo  wan 
properly  deposited.  It  was  by  far  the  most  fatiguing,  chQcrlciii, 
and  uncomfortable  business  in  which  I  was  ever  engaged,  anil 
truly  glad  was  I  to  lie  down  at  night  on  the  cold,  wot  ground, 
wrapped  in  my  blankets,  out  of  which  I  had  just  wrung  tlio 
water,  and  I  think  I  never  slept  more  soundly  or  comfortably 
than  that  night.* 

I  arose  the  next  morning  rested  and  refreshed,  though  some- 
what sore  from  sundry  bruises  received  on  the  hilli  to  which  I 
have  alluded. 

15th. — The  rain  still  continued  falling,  but  lightly,  tho  woathor 
calm  and  cool.  The  water  immediately  below  the  caNUudoH 
foams  and  boils  in  a  thousand  eddies,  forming  littlo  whirlpools, 
which,  however  insignificant  they  may  appear,  are  exceedingly 
dangerous  for  light  canoes,  whirling  their  bows  around  to  tlio 
current,  and  capsising  them  in  an  instant.  Near  tho  shoro,  at 
the  foot  of  the  cataract,  there  is  a  strong  backward  tow,  through 
which  it  is  necessary  to  drag  the  canoe,  by  a  lino,  for  tho  difi' 
tance  of  a  hundred  yards ;  here  it  feels  the  force  of  tho  opposite 
current,  and  is  carried  on  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  milos  to 
the  hour. 

The  man  whom  we  sent  yesterday  to  the  village,  roturnod 
this  morning ;  he  stated  that  one  canoe  only  could  be  had,  but 
that  three  Indians,  accustomed  to  the  navigation,  would  aceom* 
pany  us ;  that  they  would  soon  be  with  us,  and  endeavor  to  re* 
pair  our  damaged  boat.  In  an  hour  they  came,  and  after  the 
necessary  clamping  and  caulking  of  our  leaky  vessel,  wo  loaded, 
and  were  soon  moving  rapidly  down  the  river.  Tho  rain  cnosed 
about  noon,  but  the  sun  did  not  appear  c'<iring  the  day. 


♦  1  could  not  but  recollect  at  that  time,  the  last  injunction  of  my  ile»r  olij  |j;i'iini1' 
mother,  uot  to  sleep  in  damp  beds ! ! 


iiX< 


)\^ 


168 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOVKNEY 


IGth, — The  day  was  a  delightful  one ;  the  sky  was  robed  in  a 
large  flaky  cumulus,  the  glorious  bud  occasionally  bursting 
through  among  the  clouds,  with  dazzling  splendor.  We  rose  in 
the  morning  in  fine  spirits,  our  Indians  assuring  us  that  "  King 
George,"  as  they  called  the  fort,  was  but  a  short  distance  from 
us.  At  about  11  o'clock,  wo  arrived,  and  stepped  on  shore  at 
the  end  of  our  journey. 

It  is  now  three  days  over  six  months  since  I  left  my  beloved 
home.  I,  as  well  as  the  rest,  have  been  in  some  situations  of  dan« 
gcr,  of  trial,  and  of  difficulty,  but  I  have  passed  through  thorn 
all  unharmed,  with  a  constitution  strengthened,  and  invigorated 
by  healthful  exercise,  and  a  heart  which  I  trust  can  feel  deeply, 
sincerely  thankful  to  that  kind  and  overruling  Providence  who 
has  watched  over  and  protected  me.    ° 

We  have  passed  for  months  through  a  country  swarming  with 
Indians  who  thirsted  for  our  blood,  and  whose  greatest  pride  and 
glory  consisted  in  securing  the  scalp  of  a  white  man.  Enemies, 
sworn,  determined  enemies  to  all,  both  white  and  red,  who  in- 
trude upon  his  hunting  grounds,  the  Blackfoot  roams  the  prairie 
like  a  wolf  seeking  his  prey,  and  springing  upon  it  when  unpre- 
pared, and  at  the  moment  when  it  supposes  itself  most  secure. 
To  those  who  have  always  enjoyed  the  comforts  and  security  of 
civilized  life,  it  may  seem  strange  that  persons  who  know  them- 
selves to  be  constantly  exposed  to  such  dangers — who  never  He 
down  at  night  without  the  weapons  of  death  firmly  grasped  in 
their  hands,  and  who  are  in  hourly  expectation  of  hearing  the 
terrific  war  whoop  of  the  savage,  should  yet  sleep  soundly 
and  refreshingly,  and  feel  themselves  at  ease ;  such  however  is 
the  fact.  I  never  in  my  life  enjoyed  rest  more  than  when  travel- 
ling through  the  country  of  which  I  speak.  I  had  become 
accustomed  to  it :  I  felt  constant  apprehension  certainly,  but  not 
to  such  an  extent  as  to  deprive  me  of  any  of  the  few  comforts 
which  I  could  command  in  such  an  uncomfortable  country.   The 


# 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  RTO. 


t«9 


guard  might  pass  our  tent,  and  cry  "  all's  woll,"  in  his  loudest 
key,  without  disturbing  my  slumbers  :  but  if  the  slightest  unusual 
noise  occurred,  I  was  awake  in  an  instant,  and  listening  painfully 
for  a  repetition  of  it.  •  '    • 

On  the  beach  in  front  of  the  fort ,  we  were  mot  by  Mr.  Lee, 
the  missionary,  and  Dr.  John  McLoughlin,  the  chief  factor,  and 
Governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  posts  in  this  vicinity.  The  Dr. 
is  a  large,  dignified  and  very  noble  looking  man,  with  a  fine  ex- 
pressive countenance,  and  remarkably  bland  and  pleasing 
manners.  The  missionary  introduced  Mr.  N.  and  myself  in 
due  form,  and  we  were  greeted  and  received  with  a  frank  and 
unassuming  politeness  which  was  most  peculiarly  grateful  to 
our  feelings.  He  requested  us  to  consider  his  house  our  home, 
provided  a  separate  room  for  our  use,  a  servant  to  wait  upon  us, 
and  furnished  us  with  every  convenience  which  we  could  possibly 
wish  for.  I  shall  never  cease  to  feel  grateful  to  him  for  his 
disinterested  kindness  to  the  poor   houseless  and  travel-worn 


strangers. 


83 


170 


NASRATIVE    or    A    JOITKNFV 


CHAPTER    X. 


Fort  Vancouver — Jlgricullwal  and  other  improvements — Vancouver  "  camp"— 
approach  qfthe  rainy  season — EipeilHion  to  the  IVaUammet — The  falls — ^ 
village  of  Klikatat  Indiuna^Manner  of  fattening  the  head^A  Flathead 
it\fant — Jirig  '•  JWai/  Dacre^' — Preparations  for  a  settlement — Success  of 
the  natwatists —  Chinook  Indians—their  appearance  and  costume — Ague  and 
fever — Superstitious  dread  of  the  Indians — Desertion  of  the  Sandmch 
Islanders  from  Captain  Wyeth's  party — Kmbtirkation  for  a  trip  to  the 
Islands— George,  the  Indian  pilot— Mount  Cuffin — A  visit  to  the  fomi«— iSu- 
perstition— Visit  to  an  Indian  house— Fort  George — Site  of  Astoria — A 
blind  Indian  boy — Cruel  and  unfeeling  conduct  qf  the  savages — Ihtir  moral 
character — Baker's  Bay —  Cape  Disappointment — Dangerous  bar  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  river — The  sea  beach — Visit  of  Mr.  Ogdeii  Passage  across  thi- 
bar — Sea  birds — Landsmen  at  sea— A  sperm,  whale — Albatrosses,  He. — Tru- 
pic  birds — A  "  schooV  of  ivhales — Dolphins— Make  the  Sandiuich  Islands— 
Oahu—A  rhapsody. 


%\,  .     \S':<\ 


Fort  Vancouver  is  situated  on  tlie  north  bank  of  the  Co- 
himbin  on  a  large  level  plain,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  tiif^ 
shore.  The  space  comprised  vvithin  the  stoccade  is  an  oblong 
square,  of  about  one  hundred,  by  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
The  houses  built  of  logs  and  frame- work,  to  the  number  of  ten 
or  twelve,  are  ranged  around  in  a  quadrangular  form,  the  one  occu- 
pied by  the  doctor  being  in  the  middle.  In  front,  and  enclosed 
on  three  sides  by  the  buildings,  is  a  large  open  space,  where  all  the 
in-door  work  of  the  establishment  is  done.  Here  the  Indians 
assemble  with  their  multifarious  articles  of  trade,  beaver,  otter, 
venison,  and  various  other  game,  and  here,  onci:  a  week,  several 
scores  of  Canadians  are  employed,  beating  the  furs  which  have 
l)een  collected,  in  order  to  free  them  from  dust  and  vermin. 


ACROSS   TIIR   ROCKV    HOUNTAINI,  KTO. 


171 


Mr.  N.  nnd  myself  walked  over  thn  fnrni  with  thn  doctor,  to 
ifm|irct  thn  various  iinprovomnnts  which  lin  Hum  tnudo.  Ho  has 
airnady  sovcral  hundred  acres  fenced  in,  iind  under  cultivation, 
and  like  our  own  western  prairie  land,  it  prudunes  abundant 
crops,  particularly  of  grain,  without  reijuirinK  any  manure. 
Wheat  thrives  astonishingly ;  I  never  ^v  Initter  in  any  country, 
nnd  tho  various  culinary  vegetables,  potatoeM,  carrots,  parsnipo, 
dec,  are  in  great  profusion,  and  of  the  first  ({uality.  Indian  corn 
tlncH  not  flourish  so  well  as  at  Walla-walln,  the  soil  not  being  so 
well  adapted  to  it;  melons  are  well  flavored,  but  Hmall ;  the  greatest 
curioHily,  however,  is  the  apples,  which  grow  on  small  trees,  the 
branches  of  which  would  bo  broken  without  the  support  of  props 
80  profuse  is  the  quantity  of  fruit  that  tho  limbs  uru  covered  with 
it,  and  it  is  actually  /)acA;(?(/ together  precisely  in  the  same  manner 
that  onions  are  attached  to  ropes  when  they  are  cxitosed  for 
sale  in  our  markets. 

On  tho  farm  \»  a  grist  mill,  a  threshing  mill,  and  n  saw  mill, 
tho  two  first,  by  horse,  and  tho  lust,  by  water  power;  liesides 
iDuiiy  minor  improvements  in  agricultural  and  other  matters, 
which  cannot  but  astonish  the  stranger  from  a  (Mvilizod  land, 
and  which  reflect  great  credit  upon  the  libural  and  enlightened 
chief  factor. 

In  the  propagation  of  domestic  cattle,  tho  doctor  has  Ijeen  par- 
ticularly successful.  Ten  years  ago  a  lew  head  of  neat  cattle 
were  brought  to  the  fort  by  some  fur  traders  from  California  5 
iheso  have  now  increased  to  near  seven  hundred.  They  are  a 
largo  framed,  long  horned  breed,  inferior  in  tlioir  milch  qualities 
to  those  of  the  United  Stajtes,  but  the  beef  is  escolient,  and  in 
consequence  of  the  mildness  of  the  climate,  it  is  never  necessary 
to  provide  them  with  fodder  during  the  winter,  an  abundant  sup- 
ply of  excellent  pasture  being  always  fouml. 

On  the  farm,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort,  are  thirty  or  forty  log 
huts,  which  arc  occupied  by  the  Canadians,  and  others  attached 


17t 


NAHKATIVB   OF   A    JUVHNKV 


lei 


t 


to  tho  Rstnblishmcnt.  TIicmo  huts  uro  plucrd  in  ruwN,  with  broud 
Innuti  or  HtruoU  lictwccn  them,  und  tlio  wiiolo  looks  like  a  very 
ncut  and  beautiful  viilagn.  Tlio  most  fut>tidious  cloanlinuHij 
appears  to  bo  observed ;  tho  women  moy  bo  seen  sweeping  tho 
Btreett*  and  scrubbing  tho  door-sills  ns  n^guliirly  as  in  our  own 
proverbially  cleanly  city.* 

Sunday,  September  '2!ith. — Divine  servico  was  performed  in 
the  fort  this  morning  by  Mr.  Jason  Lee.  This  gentleman  und 
his  nephew  had  been  absent  some  days  in  search  of  a  suitublo 
place  to  establish  themselves,  in  order  to  fuUil  the  object  of  their 
mission.  They  returned  yestcrdny,  and  intend  leaving  us  to> 
morrow  with  their  suite  for  the  station  selected,  which  is  upon  tho 
Wallammet  river,  about  sixty  miles  south  of  tho  fort. 

In  the  evening  wo  were  gratified  by  tho  arrival  of  Captain 
Wyeth  from  below,  who  informed  us  that  tho  brig  from  Boston, 
which  was  sent  out  by  the  company  to  which  Wyeth  is  attached, 
had  entered  tho  river,  and  was  anchored  about  twenty  miles 
below,  at  a  spot  called  Warrior's  point,,  near  tho  western  entrance 
of  tho  Wallammet. 

Captain  W.  mentioned  his  intention  to  visit  the  Wallammet 
country,  and  seek  out  a  convenient  location  for  a  fort  which  he 
wishes  to  establish  without  delay,  and  Mr.  N.  and  myself  accept- 
ed an  invitation  to  accompany  him  in  the  morning.  Ho  has 
brought  with  him  one  of  the  brig's  boats,  and  eight  oarsmen,  five 
of  whom  are  Sandwich  Islanders. 

Wo  have  experienced  for  several  days  past,  gloomy,  lowering, 
and  showery  weather;  indeed  the  sun  has  scorcely  been  seen  for 

*  I  have  given  this  notice  of  the  suburbs  of  the  fort,  as  I  find  it  in  my  journHl 
written  Ht  the  time;  I  Iwd  reason,  subsequently,  to  change  my  oitinion  with  regard 
tu  the  scrupulous  cleanliness  of  the  Canadians'  Indian  wives,  and  particularly  after 
inspecting  the  internal  economy  of  the  dwellings.  What  at  first  struck  me  as  neat 
and  clean,  by  an  involuntary  comparison  of  it  with  the  extreme  filthiness  to  which 
I  had  been  accustomed  amongst  the  Indians,  soon  revealed  itself  in  its  proper  light, 
and  I  can  freely  confess  that  my  first  estimate  mhs  too  high. 


i 


ACRUaS    TIIK    KOCKV    MOUNTAINS,    KTC. 


173 


a  wook  priNt.  ThiM  is  aaiil  tu  iiitlicatc  tlio  nriur  a|i|>ronch  of  thu 
rftiny  HoaHon,  which  usually  wts  in  about  the  middlu  of  Octolwr, 
or  even  earlier.  After  this  time,  until  December,  th<!re  is  very 
little  clear  weather,  showers  or  heavy  r  louils  almost  constantly 
prevailing. 

On  the  20th,  Captain  VVycth,  Mr.  N.,  nnJ  myself,  cmborked 
in  the  ship's  boat  for  our  exploring  excursion.  Wo  had  a  good 
crew  of  fmo  robust  sailors,  and  the  copper-colored  islanders, — or 
Kanakas,  as  they  arc  called, — did  their  duty  with  great  alacrity 
and  good  will. 

At  about  five  miles  bulow  the  fort,  we  entered  fhe  upper  mouth 
of  the  VVallaminet.  This  river  is  here  about  half  the  width  of 
the  Columbia,  a  clear  and  beautiful  stream,  and  navigable  for 
largo  vessels  to  the  distance  of  twcnty-five  miles.  It  is  coven.'d 
with  numerous  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  that  called  Wappatoo 
Island,  about  twenty  miles  in  length.  The  vegetation  on  the 
main  land  is  good,  the  timber  generally  pine  and  post  oak,  and 
the  river  is  margined  in  many  places  with  a  beautiful  species  of 
willow  with  largo  ob-lanceolatc  leaves  like  those  of  the  peach, 
and  white  on  their  under  surface.  The  timber  on  the  islands  is 
chiefly  oak,  no  pino  growing  there.  At  about  10  o'clock  wo 
overtook  three  men  whom  Captain  VV.  had  sent  ahead  in  a  canoo 
and  wo  all  landed  soon  after  on  the  beach  and  dined  on  a  mess 
of  salmon  and  peas  which  we  had  provided.  We  were  under 
way  again  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  at  about  sunset. 
We  have  as  yet  seen  no  suitable  place  for  an  establishment,  and 
to-morrow  we  proceed  to  the  falls  of  the  river,  about  fifteen  miles 
further.  Almost  all  the  land  in  the  vicinity  is  excellent  and  well 
calculated  for  cultivation,  and  several  spots  which  we  have 
visited,  would  be  admirably  adapted  to  the  captain's  views,  but 
that  there  is  not  a  sufficient  extent  unincumbered,  or  which  could 
be  fitted  for  the  purposes  of  tillage  in  a  space  of  time  short  enough 


174 


KARRATIVB   OF   A   JOVKNEY 


to  bo  serviceable ;  others  are  at  some  seasons  inunilatcd,  which  is 
an  insurmountable  objection. 

We  embarked  early  the  next  morning,  and  at  11  o'clock 
arrived  at  the  falls,  after  encountering  some  difficulties  from 
rapids,  through  which  we  had  to  warp  our  boat.  There  are  here 
three  falls  on  a  line  of  rocks  extending  across  the  river,  which 
forms  the  bed  of  the  upper  channel.  The  water  is  precipitated 
througl;  deep  abrazed  gorges,  and  falls  perhaps  forty  feet  at  an 
angle  of  about  twenty  degrees.  It  was  a  beautiful  sight  when 
viewed  from  a  distance,  but  it  became  grand  and  almost  sublime  as 
we  approached  it  nearer.  I  mounted  the  rocks  and  stood  over 
the  highest  fall,  and  although  the  roar  of  the  cataract  was  almost 
deafening,  and  the  rays  of  the  bright  sun  reflected  from  the  white 
a  glittering  foam  threatened  to  deprive  me  of  sight,  yet  I  became 
so  absorbed  in  the  contemplation  of  the  scene,  and  the  reflections 
which  were  involuntarily  excited,  as  to  forget  every  thing  else  for 
the  time,  and  was  only  aroused  by  Captain  W.  tapping  me  on 
the  shoulder,  and  telling  me  that  every  thing  was  arranged  for 
our  return.  While  I  visited  the  falls,  the  captain  and  his  men 
had  found  what  they  sought  for  ;  and  the  object  of  our  voyage 
being  accomplished,  we  got  on  board  immediately  and  shaped 
our  course  down  tlie  'river  with  a  fair  wind,  and  the  current  in 
favor. 

About  two  miles  below  the  cataract  is  a  small  village  of 
Klikatat  Indians.  Their  situation  does  not  appear  different  from 
what  we  have  been  accustomed  to  see  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
fort.  They  live  in  the  same  sort  of  miserable  loose  hovels,  and 
are  the  same  wretched,  squalid  looking  people.  Although 
enjoying  far  more  advantages,  and  having  in  a  much  greater 
degree  the  means  of  rendering  themselves  comfortable,  yet  their 
mode  of  living,  their  garments,  their  wigwams,  and  every  thing 
connected  with  them,  is  not  much  better  than  the  Snakes  and 


ACROSS   THE   HOCKY   MOUNTAINS,   ETC. 


175 


Bfinnncks,  and  very  far  inferior  to  that  fine,  noble-looking  race, 
the  Kayouse,  whom  we  met  on  the  Chrand  ronde. 

A  custom  prevalent,  and  almost  universal  amongst  these  In- 
dians, is  that  of  flattening,  or  mashing  in  the  whole  front  of  the 
skull,  from  the  superciliary  ridge  to  the  crown.  The  appearance 
produced  by  this  unnatural  operation  is  almost  hideous,  and  one 
would  suppose  that  the  intellect  would  be  materially  affected  by 
it.  This,  however,  does  not  appear  to  be  the  case,  as  I  have 
never  seen,  (with  a  single  exception,  the  Kayouse,)  a  race  of 
people  who  appeared  more  shrewd  and  intelligent.  I  had  a  con- 
versation on  this  subject,  a  few  days  since,  with  a  chief  who 
speaks  the  English  language.  He  said  that  he  had  exerted  him- 
self to  abolish  the  practice  in  his  own  tribe,  but  although  his  peo- 
])lo  would  listen  patiently  to  his  talk  on  most  subjects,  their  ears 
woio  firmly  closed  when  this  was  mentioned  ;  "  they  would  leave 
the  council  fire,  one  by  one,  until  none  but  a  few  squaws  and 
children  were  left  to  drink  in  the  words  of  the  chief."  It  is  even 
considered  among  them  a  degradation  to  possess  a  round  head, 
and  one  whose  caput  has  happened  to  be  neglected  in  his  infancy, 
can  never  become  even  a  subordinate  chief  in  his  tribe,  and  is 
treated  with  inditference  and  disdain,  as  one  who  is  unworthy  a 
place  amongst  them. 

The  flattening  of  the  head  is  practiced  by  at  least  tenor  twelve 
distinct  tribes  of  the  lower  coun-ry  ,  the  Klikatats,  Kalapooyahs, 
and  Multnomahs,  of  the  Wallammet,  and  its  vicinity ;  the  Chi- 
nooks,  Klatsaps,  Klatstonis,  Kowalitsks,  Katlammets,  Killemooks, 
and  Chekalis  of  the  lower  Columbia  and  its  tributaries,  and  pro- 
bably by  others  both  north  and  south.  The  tribe  called  Flat- 
heads,  or  Saliah,  who  reside  near  the  sources  of  the  Oregon, 
iittve  long  since  abolished  this  custom. 

The  mode  by  which  the  flattening  is  eflfected,  varies  consider- 
ably with  the  diflferent  tribes.  The  Wallammet  Indians  place 
the  infant,  soon  after  birth,  upon  a  board,  to  the  edges  ot'  which 


i    'S 


S  Wl 

^.-H 


t    i 


I 


■M 


II 


176 


NABRATIVS   OP   A   JOURNET 


are  attached  little  loops  of  hempen  cord  or  leather,  and  other 
similar  cords  are  passed  across  and  back ,  in  a  zig-zag  manner, 
through  these  loops,  enclosing  the  child,  and  binding  it  firmly- 
down.  To  the  upper  edge  of  this  board,  in  which  is  a  depression 
to  receive  the  back  part  of  the  head,  another  smaller  one  is 
attached  by  hinges  of  leather,  and  made  to  lie  obliquely  upon  the 
forehead,  the  force  of  the  pressure  being  regulated  by  several 
strings  attached  to  its  edge,  which  are  passed  through  holes  in 
the  board  upon  which  the  infant  is  lying,  and  secured  there. 

The  mode  of  the  Chinooks,  and  others  near  the  sea,  differs 
widely  from  that  of  the  upper  Indians,  and  appears  somewhat 
less  barbarous  and  cruel.  A  sort  of  cradle  is  formed  by  exca- 
vating a  pine  log  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten  inches.  The  child 
is  placed  in  it  on  a  bed  of  little  grass  mats,  and  bound  down  in 
the  manner  above  described.  A  little  boss  of  tightly  plaited  and 
woven  grass  is  then  applied  to  the  forehead,  and  secured  by  a 
cord  to  the  loops  at  the  side.  The  infant  is  thus  suffered  to  remain 
from  four  to  eight  months,  or  until  the  sutures  of  the  skull  have  in 
some  measure  united,  and  the  bone  become  solid  and  firm.  It  is 
seldom  or  never  taken  from  the  cradle,  except  in  case  of  severe 
illness,  until  the  flattening  process  is  completed. 

I  saw,  to-day,  a  young  child  from  whose  head  the  board  had 
just  been  removed.  It  was,  without  exception,  the  most  frightful 
and  disgusting  looking  object  that  I  ever  beheld.  The  whole 
front  of  the  head  was  completely  flattened,  and  the  mass  of  brain 
being  forced  back,  caused  an  enormous  projection  there.  The 
poor  little  creature's  eyes  protruded  to  the  distance  of  half  an 
inch,  and  looked  inflamed  and  discolored,  as  did  all  the  sur- 
rounding parts.  Although  I  felt  a  kind  of  chill  creep  over  me 
from  the  contemplation  of  such  dire  deformity,  yet  there  was 
something  so  stark-staring,  and  absolutely  queer  in  the  pliysiog- 
nomy,  that  I  could  not  repress  a  smile;  and  when  the  mother 
amused  the  little  object  and  made  it  laugh,  it  looked  so  irresist- 


ACROSS    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


177 


ably,  so  terribli/  ludicrous,  that  I  and  those  who  were  with  me, 
burst  into  a  simultaneous  roar,  which  frightened  it  and  made  it 
cry,' in  which  predicament  it  looked  much  less  horrible  than 
before. 

On  the  1st,  of  November  we  arrived  at  the  brig.  She  was 
moored,  head  and  stern,  to  a  large  rock  near  the  lower  mouth  of 
the  Wallammet.  Captain  Lambert  with  his  ship's  company,  and 
our  own  mountain  men,  were  all  actively  engaged  at  various 
employments;  carpenters,  smiths,  coopers,  and  other  artisans 
were  busy  in  their  several  vocations ;  domestic  animals,  pigs, 
sheep,  goats,  poultry,  &c.,  were  roaming  about  as  if  perfectly  at 
homo,  and  the  whole  scene  looked  so  like  the  entrance  to  a 
country  village,  that  it  was  difficult  to  fancy  oneself  in  a  howling 
wilderness  inhabited  only  by  the  wild  and  improvident  Indian, 
and  his  scarcely  more  free  and  fearless  neighbors,  the  bear  and 
the  wolf.  An  excellent  temporary  storehouse  of  twigs,  thatched 
with  grass,  has  been  erected,  in  which  has  been  deposited  the  ex- 
tensive assQi'tment  of  goods  necessary  for  the  settlement,  as  well 
as  a  number  of  smaller  ones,  in  which  the  men  reside.  It  is  intend- 
ed as  soon  as  practicable,  to  build  a  large  "-x.i  permanent  dwelling  of 
logs,  which  will  also  include  the  pt^^c  ani;  ruiding  establishment, 
and  form  the  groundwork  for  an  American,  fort  on  the  river 
Columbia. 

bth. — Mr.  N.  and  myself  are  nov  residing  on  i.>ird  the  brig, 
and  pursuing  with  considerable  success  our  scie-.tific  researches 
through  the  neighborhood.  I  have  shot  and  prepar<^d  here 
several  new  ipecies  of  birds,  and  two  or  three  uudescribed 
quadrupeds,  boi^'es  procuring  a  considerable  numlur,  which, 
though  known  to  naturalists,  are  rare,  and  therefore  valuable. 
My  companion  is  of  cc.se  in  his  element ;  the  fores,  ^  the  plain, 
the  rocky  hill,  and  the  mossy  bank  >ield  him  a  rich  and  most 
abundant  supply. 

ii8 


■y  ^4- 


I'  :i 


n 


\  ,■ 


178  NAKRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNET 

We  are  visited  daily  by  considerable  numbers  of  Chinook 
and  Klikatat  Indians,  many  of  whom  bring  us  provisions  of 
various  kinds,  salmon,  deer,  ducks,  &c.,  and  receive  in  return, 
powder  and  shot,  knives,  paint,  and  Indian  rum,  i.  e.  rum  and 
water  in  the  propoition  of  one  part  of  the  former  to  two  of  the 
latter.  Some  of  these  Indians  would  be  handsome  were  it  not 
for  the  abominable  practice,  which,  as  I  have  said,  is  almost 
universal  amongst  them,  of  destroying  the  form  of  the  head. 
The  features  of  many  arc  regular,  though  often  devoid  of  expres- 
sion, and  the  persons  of  the  men  generally  are  rather  symme- 
trical ;  their  stature  is  low,  with  light  sinewy  limbs,  and  remark- 
ably small  delicate  hands.  The  women  are  usually  more 
rotund,  and,  in  some  instances,  even  approach  obesity.  The 
principal  clothing  worn  by  them  is  a  sort  of  short  petticoat  made 
of  strans  of  pine  bark  or  twisted  hempen  strings,  tied  around 
the  loins  like  a  marro.  This  article  they  call  a  kalaquarte;  and 
is  often  tlieir  only  dress ;  some,  however,  cover  the  shoulders 
with  a  blanket,  or  robe  made  of  muskrat  or  hare  skins  sewed 
together. 

A  disease  of  a  very  fatal  character  iw  prevalent  among  these 
Indians  ;  many  of  them  have  died  of  it;  even  some  of  those  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  fort,  where  medical  assistance  was  always 
at  hand.  The  symptoms  are  a  general  coldness,  soreness  and 
stiffness  of  the  limbs  and  body,  with  violent  tertian  ague. 
Its  fatal  termination  is  attributable  to  its  tendency  to  attack 
the  liver,  which  is  generally  affected  in  a  few  days  after 
the  first  symptoms  are  developed.  Several  of  the  white  people 
attached  to  the  fort  have  been  ill  with  it,  but  no  dr^aths  have  oc- 
curred amongst  them,  the  disease  in  their  case  having  yielded  to 
the  simple  tonic  remedies  usually  employed  at  home.  This  I  have 
no  doubt  would  be  equally  the  case  with  the  Inilians,  were  they 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


179 


willing  to  submit  to  proper  restrictions  during  the  time  of  admi- 
nistering medicine. 

Captain  Lambert  informs  me  that  on  his  first  landing  here  the 
Indians  studiously  avoided  his  vessel,  and  all  kind  of  intercourse 
with  his  crew,  from  the  supposition,  (which  they  have  since  ac- 
knowledged) that  the  malady  wh'ch  they  dread  so  much  was  thus 
conveyed.  As  in  a  short  time  it  became  desirable,  on  account 
of  procuring  supplies  of  provision,  to  remove  this  impression, 
some  pains  were  taken  to  convince  the  Indians  of  their  error,  and 
they  soon  visited  the  ship  without  fear. 

Mr.  N.  and  myself  have  been  anxious  to  escape  the  wet  and 
disagreeable  winter  of  this  region,  and  visit  some  other  portion 
of  the  country,  where  the  inclemency  of  the  season  will  not  inter- 
fere with  the  prosecution  of  our  respective  pursuits.  After  some 
reflection  and  consultation,  we  concluded  to  take  passage  in  the 
brig,  which  will  sail  in  a  few  weeks  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  We 
shall  remain  there  about  three  months,  and  return  to  the  river  in 
time  to  commence  our  peregrinations  in  the  spring. 

23d. — At  Fort  Vancouver.  A  letter  was  received  yesterday 
by  Dr.  McLoughlin,  from  Captain  Wyeth,  dated  Walla-walla, 
stating  that  the  twelve  Sandwich  Islanders  whom  he  took  with 
him  a  week  since  for  a  journty  to  Fort  Hall,  had  deserted,  each 
taking  a  horse.  They  had  no  doubt  heard  from  some  of  their 
countrymen,  whom  they  met  at  the  fort,  of  the  difficulties  of  the 
route  before  them,  which  were  probably  very  much  exaggerated. 
Captain  W.  is  on  the  alert  to  find  them,  and  is  sending  men  on 
their  trail  in  every  direction,  but  it  is  more  than  probable  that 
they  will  not  be  overtaken,  and  the  consequence  will  then  be,  that 
the  expedition  must  be  abandoned,  and  the  captain  return  to  the 
fort  to  spend  the  winter. 

December  3d, — Yesterday  Mr.  N.  and  myself  went  down  the 
river  to  the  brig,  and  this  morning  early  the  vessel  left  her 


m^ 


U'i 


■ 


180 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOVRNEV 


m 


\-< 


I  I 


moorings,  and  with  her  sails  unloosed  stood  out  into  the  channel 
way.  The  weather  was  overcast,  and  we  had  but  little  wind,  so 
that  our  progress  during  the  morning  was  necessarily  slow.  In 
the  afternoon  we  ran  aground  in  one  and  a  half  fathoms  water, 
but  as  the  tide  was  low,  we  were  enabled  to  get  her  clear  in  the 
evening.  The  navigation  of  this  river  is  particularly  diflncult  in 
consequence  of  numerous  shoals  and  sand  bars,  and  good  pilots 
are  scarce,  the  Indians  alone  officiating  in  that  capacity.  To- 
wards noon  the  next  dny,  a  K  r  alitsk  Indian  with  but  one  eye, 
who  said  his  name  was  George,  boarded  n<«,  and  showed  a  letter 
which  he  carried,  written  by  Captain  McNeall,  in  the  Hudson's 
Bay  service,  recommending  said  Gn/ige  as  a  capable  and  expe- 
rienced pilot.  We  accepted  his  sfirvices  gladly,  and  made  a  bar- 
gain with  hiiri  to  take  us  into  Baker's  bay  near  the  cape,  for  four 
bottles  of  rum;  with  the  understanding,  however,  that  every  time 
the  brig  ran  aground,  one  bottle  of  the  precious  liquor  was  to  be 
forfeited.  George  agreed  to  tlic  terms,  and  taking  his  station 
at  the  bow,  gave  his  orders  to  the  man  at  the  wheel  like  one 
having  authority,  pointing  with  his  finger  when  he  wished  a  de- 
viation from  the  common  course,  and  pronouncing  in  a  loud  voice 
the  single  word  ooikook,  (here.) 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  4th,  we  passed  along  a  bold  precipi- 
tous shore,  near  which  we  observed  a  large  isolated  rock,  and 
on  it  a  great  number  of  canoes,  deposited  above  the  reach  of  the 
tides.  This  spot  is  called  Mount  Coffin,  and  the  canoes  contain 
the  dead  bodies  of  Indians.  They  are  carefully  wrapped  in 
filtnket  i  and  all  the  personal  property  of  the  deceased,  bows  and 
arrows,  guns,  salmon  spears,  ornaments,  &c.,  are  placod  within, 
•iiiJ  around  his  canoe.  The  vicinity  of  this,  and  all  other  ccnio- 
teries,  is  held  so  sacred  by  the  Indians,  that  they  never  approach 
it,  except  to  make  similar  deposites ;  they  will  often  even  travel 
a  considerable  distance  out  of  their  course,  in  order  to  avoid  in- 
truding upon  the  sanctuary  of  their  dead. 


ACROSS  THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  BTC. 


161 


We  came  to  anchor  near  this  rock  in  the  evening,  and  Cnptiiiii 
Lambert,  Mr.  N.,  and  myself  visited  the  tombs.  Wti  were  oh|M). 
daily  careful  not  to  touch  or  disarrange  any  of  tlio  fubricM,  mid 
it  was  well  we  were  so,  lor  as  we  turned  to  leave  the  plinui,  wo 
found  that  we  had  been  narrowly  watched  by  about  twenty  In* 
dians,  whom  we  had  not  seen  when  we  landed  from  our  boat. 
After  we  embarked,  wo  observed  an  old  withered  crono  with  a 
long  stick  or  wand  in  her  hand,  who  approached,  and  walked 
over  the  ground  which  we  had  defiled  with  our  Hftcrilo/^ioun 
tread,  waving  hor  enchanted  rod  over  the  mouldering  bonem,  un 
if  to  purify  the  atmosphere  around,  and  exorcise  the  ovil  MpiritN 
which  we  had  called  up. 

I  have  been  very  anxious  to  procure  the  skulls  of  somfl  of 
these  Indians,  and  should  have  been  willing,  so  fur  m  I  itlono 
was  concerned,  to  encounter  some  risk  to  effect  ray  object,  but  I 
have  refrained  on  account  of  the  difficulty  in  which  the  nhip  niid 
crew  would  be  involved,  if  the  sacrilege  should  bo  diHcoverod  ; 
a  prejudice  might  thus  bo  excited  against  our  little  colony 
which  would  not  soon  be  overcome,  and  might  prove  a  MuriuUH 
injury. 

6th. — The  weather  is  almost  constantly  rainy  and  s(|iially, 
making  it  unpleasant  to  be  on  deck ;  we  are  therefore  conlinod 
closely  to  the  cabin,  and  are  anxious  to  get  out  to  soa  aw  Hoon  u« 
possible,  if  only  to  escape  this. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  captain  and  myself  went  UNlioro  in  llio 
long-boat,  and  visited  several  Indian  houses  upon  the  lieuth. 
These  arc  built  of  roughly  hewn  boards  and  logs,  usually  covered 
with  pine  bark,  or  niaUing  of  their  own  manufiicturo,  and  open  ijt 
the  top,  to  allow  the  smoke  to  escape.  In  one  of  thuso  hounex 
we  found  men,  women,  and  children,  to  the  nunibc^r  uf  fifty-two, 
seated  as  usual,  upon  the  ground,  around  numerous  firen,  the 
smoke  from  which  tilled  every  cranny  oa  the  buililing,  and  to  iin 
was  almost  stifling,  although  the  Indians  did  nut.  appear  to  «u(ler 


182 


NAKRATIVB   OF   A   JOVRNEY 


any  inconvenience  from  it.  Although  living  in  a  state  of  the 
most  abject  poverty,  deprived  of  most  of  the  absolute  necessaries 
of  life,  and  frequently  enduring  the  pangs  of  protracted  starva- 
tion, yet  these  poor  people  appear  happy  and  contented.  They 
are  scarcely  qualified  to  enjoy  the  common  comforts  of  life, 
oven  if  their  indolence  did  not  prevent  the  attempt  to  procure 
them. 

On  the  aflernoon  of  the  8th,  wo  anchored  off  Fort  George,  as 
it  is  called,  although  perhaps  it  scarcely  deserves  the  name  of  a 
fort,  being  composed  of  but  one  principal  house  of  hewn  boards, 
and  a  number  of  small  Indian  huts  surrounding  it,  presenting  the 
appearance,  from  a  distance,  of  an  ordinary  small  farm  house 
with  its  appropriate  outbuildings.  There  is  but  one  white  man 
residing  here,  the  superintendent  of  the  fort ;  but  there  is  probably 
no  necessity  for  more,  as  the  business  done  is  not  very  consider- 
able, most  of  the  furs  being  taken  by  the  Indians  to  Vancouver. 
The  establishment  is,  however,  of  importance,  independent  of  its 
utility  as  a  trading  post,  as  it  is  situated  within  view  of  the 
dangerous  cape,  and  intelligence  of  the  arrival  of  vessels  can  be 
communicated  to  the  authorities  at  Vancouver  in  time  for  them 
to  render  adequate  assistance  to  such  vessels  by  supplying  them 
with  pilots,  &c.  This  is  the  spot  where  once  stood  the  fort 
established  by  the  direction  of  our  honored  countryman,  John 
Jacob  Astor.  One  of  the  chimneys  of  old  Fort  Astoria  is  still 
standing,  a  melancholy  monument  of  American  enterprise  and 
domestic  misrule.  The  spot  whore  once  the  fine  parterre  over- 
looked tho  river,  and  the  bold  stoccndc  enclosed  the  neat  and 
substantial  fort,  is  now  overgrown  with  weeds  and  bushes,  and 
can  scarce  be  distinguished  from  the  primeval  forest  which 
surrounds  it  on  every  side. 

Captain  Lambert,  Mr.  N.  and  myself  visito<l  the  Indian  houses 
in  the  neighborhood.  In  one  of  them  we  saw  a  poor  little  boy 
about  three  years  of  age  who  had  been  blind  from  his  birth.     He 


NABRATIVR   OF   A   JOTTRNBY 


183 


Isos 

III  I  y 

He 


was  silting  on  tho  ground  near  tho  fire,  surrounded  by  a  quantity 
of  fish  bones  which  he  had  been  picking.  Our  sympathy  was 
very  much  excited  for  the  poor  little  unfortunate,  particularly  as 
he  was  made  a  subject  for  the  taunting  jibes  and  laughter  of  a 
number  of  men  and  women,  squatting  around,  and  his  mother  sat 
by  with  the  most  cruel  apathy  and  unconcern,  and  only  smiled 
at  tho  commiseration  which  we  expressed  for  her  innocent  and 
peculiarly  unhappy  offspring.  It  seems  difficult  to  believe  that 
those  who  possess  the  form  and  countenance  of  human  creatures, 
should  so  debase  the  natural  good  feelings  which  God  has  im- 
planted in  them  :  but  these  ignorant  and  gross  wretches  seemed 
to  take  credit  to  themselves  in  rendering  this  afllictcd  being 
unhappy,  and  smiled  and  looked  at  each  other  when  we 
endeavored  to  infuse  a  little  pity  into  them.  The  child  had  evi- 
dently been  very  much  neglected,  and  almost  starved,  and  the 
little  articles  which  we  presented  it,  (in  the  hope,  that  the  Indians 
on  seeing  us  manifest  an  interest  in  it,  would  treat  it  more  ten- 
derly,) it  put  to  its  mouth  eagerly,  but  finding  them  not  eatable, 
threw  them  aside  in  disgust.  Oh !  how  I  wished  at  that  moment 
for  a  morsel  of  bread  to  give  this  little  famished  and  neglected 
creature.  We  soon  Icfl  the  place,  and  returned  to  the  brig,  but 
i  could  think  of  nothing  during  the  remainder  of  the  evening  but 
the  little  blind  child,  and  at  night  I  dreamed  I  saw  it,  and  it  raised 
its  dim  and  sightless  orbs,  and  stretched  out  its  little  emaciated 
arms  towards  me,  as  if  begging  for  a  crumb  to  prevent  its 
starving. 

These  people,  as  I  have  already  said,  do  not  appear  to  possess 
a  particle  of  natural  good  feeling,  and  in  their  moral  character, 
they  are  little  better  than  brutes.  In  the  case  of  the  blind  boy, 
they  seemed  to  take  pride  in  tormenting  it,  and  rendering  it 
miserable,  and  vied  with  each  other  in  the  skill  and  dexterity 
with  whicii  they  applied  to  it  the  most  degrading  and  insulting 
epithets.     These  circumstances,  with  others,  in  regard  to  their 


I 


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t§i         ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  KTC. 

moml  character,  which  I  shall  not  .3Vi'n  mention,  hnvo  tended 
very  considerably  to  lower  the  estimation  in  which  1  have  ulwayN 
held  the  red  man  of  the  forest,  nnd  sci  vn  to  strengthen  the 
o|>inion  which  I  had  long  since  formed,  that  nothing  but  the  intro- 
duction of  civilization,  with  its  good  nd  whoiesomo  "nws,  can 
ever  render  the  Indian  of  service  to  himself,  or  raise  him  from 
the  state  of  wretchedness  which  has  so  long  characterized  his 
expiring  race. 

The  next  morning,  wo  ran  down  into  Baker's  bay,  and  anchored 
within  gunshot  of  the  cape,  when  Captain  Lambert  and  my- 
self went  on  shore  in  the  boat,  to  cxomino  the  channel,  and 
decide  upon  the  prospect  of  getting  out  to  sea.  This  passage  is 
a  very  dangerous  one,  and  is  with  reason  dreaded  by  mariners. 
A  wide  bar  of  sand  extends  from  Cape  Disappointment  to  the 
opposite  shore, — cailrd  Point  Adams, — and  with  the  exception  of 
a  space,  comprehending  about  half  a  mile,  the  sea  at  all  times 
breaks  furiously,  the  surges  dashing  to  the  height  of  the  mast 
head  of  a  ship,  and  with  the  most  terrific  roaring.  Sometimes 
the  water  in  the  channel  is  agitated  equally  with  that  which 
covers  the  whole  length  of  the  bar,  and  it  is  then  a  matter 
of  imminent  risk  to  attempt  a  passage.  Vessels  have  occasion- 
ally been  compelled  to  lie  in  under  the  cape  for  several  weeks, 
in  momentary  expectation  of  the  subsidence  of  the  dangerous 
breakers,  and  they  have  not  unfrequenily  been  required  to 
stand  off  shore,  from  without,  until  the  crews  have  suffered  ex- 
tremely for  food  and  water.  This  circumstance  must  ever  form 
a  barrier  to  a  permanent  settlement  here ;  the  sands,  which  com- 
pose the  bar,  are  constantly  shifting,  and  changing  the  course 
nnd  depth  of  the  channel,  so  that  none  but  the  small  coasting 
vessels  in  the  service  of  the  company  can,  with  much  safety,  pass 
back  and  forth. 

Mr.  N.  and  myself  visited  the  sea  beach,  outside  the  cape,  in 
the    hope   of  finding  jieculiar  marine  shells,  but  although  we 


ACROSS   THE    BOOKY    MOimTAINN,  RTO. 


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wo 


nnarchod  assiduously  during  tho  morning,  m<  liud  hut  littln  sue- 
cflss.  We  saw  sovoral  deer  in  tho  thick  Ibn-Ht  nn  tho  sido  of  the 
fopo,  and  a  groat  number  of  black  shags,  or  cormoruntii,  flying 
over  tho  breakers,  and  resting  upon  Ihn  surr-wiiMh(ul  rocks. 

On  the  morning  of  tho  11th,  Mr.  Hanson,  tho  mato,  roturned     \:^     ,  pi^ 
from  the  shore,  and  reported  thut  tho  ehnnnul  was  smooth ;  it  ' 

wns  thererore  deemed  safe  to  .,  'cmpt  tho  piiKmigo  immediately. 
While  wo  were  weighing  our  ui  '  ^>r,  wo  dcsi  rind  n  brig  steering 
towards  us,  which  soon  crosHi  bar,  and  rnn  up  to  within 

speaking  distance.  It  wns  ono  <>i  tho  (IiiiJHon*)!  Huy  (<oinpmiy's 
coasters,  and,  as  wo  were  gotting  undiir  way,  a  i)oat  put  oil'  I'rom 
her,  and  we  were  boarded  by  Mr.  Ogditn,  a  cliioC  factor  from  one 
of  tho  Company's  forts  on  the  coast.  Ho  irifnriii(>d  us  that  the 
brig  lcf\  Naas  about  the  firnt  of  Octolxtr,  but  had  ))ren  delayed  I 

by  contrary  winds,  and  rough,  boisterous  weather.     Thus  the  • 

voyage  which  usually  requires  but  about  eight  days  for  its  perform* 
ancc,  occupied  upwards  of  two  monthii.  Thoy  had  been  on  an 
allowance  of  a  pint  of  water  per  day,  and  had  Nutfered  considerably 
for  fresh  provision.  Mr.  Ogdcn  remained  with  us  but  a  short 
time,  and  wc  stood  out  past  the  cape. 

When  wc  entered  the  channel,  the  water  which  had  before 
been  so  smooth,  became  suddenly  very  much  agitated,  swelling, 
and  roaring,  and  foaming  around  us,  as  if  tho  surges  were  up- 
heaved from  the  very  bottom,  and  as  our  vossol  would  fall  in  the 
trough  of  the  sea,  pitching  down  like  a  huge  leviathan  seeking  its 
native  depths,  I  could  not  but  feel  positive,  that  tho  enormous 
wave,  which  hung  like  a  judgment  over  our  heads,  wotild  inevita- 
bly engulph  us ;  but  the  good  ship,  liko  a  crcaturo  instinct  with 
life,  as  though  she  knew  her  danger,  gallantly  rose  upon  it,  and 
but  dipped  her  bows  into  its  crest,  as  if  in  scorn  of  its  mighty  and 
irresistible  power.  This  is  my  first  sea  voyage,  and  every  thing 
upon  the  great  deep  is  of  course  novel  and  interesting  to  me. 

During  the  scene  which  I  have  just  described,  although  I   was 

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awftre  of  our  imminent  peril,  and  the  tales  that  I  had  frequently 
heard  of  vemels  perishing  in  this  very  spot,  and  in  precisely  such 
a  M8t  recurred  to  my  mind  with  some  force,  yet  I  could  not  but 
1^1  a  kind  of  secret  and  wild  joy  at  finding  myself  in  a  situation 
of  lueh  awAil  and  magnificent  grandeur.  I  thought  of  the  lines 
of  Shelley,  and  repeated  them  to  myself  in  a  kind  of  ecstasy. 

''  And  see'st  thou,  and  hear'st  thou, 
And  fear'st  thou,  and  fear'st  thou, 
And  ride  we  not  free 
OVr  the  terrible  sea, 
1  and  thou  ?" 

In  about  twenty  minutes  we  had  escaped  all  the  danger,  and 
found  ouraelves  riding  easily  in  a  beautiful  placid  sea.  We  &et 
the  lalls,  which  had  been  shortened  on  the  bar,  and  the  gallant 
ve»asl  feeling  the  impulse  of  the  wind,  rushed  ahead  as  if  exulting 
in  the  victory  she  had  achieved. 

We  iaW|  outside  the  bar,  a  great  number  of  birds,  of  various 
kind»— ducks  of  several  species,  two  or  three  kinds  of  guillemots, 
(CTria,)— shags,  (Phalacrocorax,)  among  which  was  a  splendid 
new  ipeeieSf*  brown  albatross,  (Diomedea  fusca,)  the  common 
duiky  pelican,  {P.  fuacvs,)  and  numerous  Procellaria, — also, 
the  beautiful  marine  animal,  called  Medusa.  It  is  a  cartilagi- 
noui  or  gummy  substance,  flatfish,  and  about  the  size  of  a  man's 
hand,  with  a  tube  projecting  from  it,  expanded  or  flared  out  like 
the  end  of  a  clarionet.  Within  the  body,  near  the  posterior  part  is 
a  large  ovate  ball,  of  a  bright  orange  color,  resembling  the  yolk 
of  an  egg. 

14<A.— There  is  to-day  a  heavy  sea  running,  and  we  lands- 
men are  affording  some  merriment  to  the  seasoned  crew,  by  our 
"  lubberly"  manner  of  «  fetching  away"  in  our  attempts  to  walk 


*  See  appendix. 


ACBOSS  THB  BOCKT  MOVNTAINS,  ETC. 


187 


the  deck.  I  find,  for  myself,  that  I  must  for  the  present  consent 
to  relinquish  an  erect  and  dignified  carriage,  and  adopt  the  less 
graceful,  but  safer  method  of  clinging  to  the  rails,  &c.,  to  assist 
locomotion.  One  thing,  however,  I  cannot  but  feel  thankful  for, 
which  is,  that  I  have  never  felt  in  the  least  degree  sea  sick ;  and 
having  so  far  escaped,  I  have  no  apprehension  for  the  future. 

Saw,  in  the  aflernoon,  a  large  sperm,  whale,  lazily  rolling 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  ahead  of  the  vessel.  It  occasionally 
spouted  up  a  stream  of  water  to  the  height  of  six  or  seven  feet, 
but  was  perfectly  quiescent  until  we  approached  near  it,  when  it 
suddenly  sank  away  and  was  lost  to  sight. 

20th. — We  observe  constantly  around  us  several  species  of 
dark  albatross,  puffins,  petrels,  &c.  They  follow  closely  in  our 
wake,  sailing  over  the  surges  with  astonishing  ease  and  grace, 
frequently  skimming  so  near  the  surface  that  the  eye  loses  them 
for  an  instant  between  the  swells,  but  at  such  times  they  never 
touch  the  water,  although  we  not  unfrequently  see  them  resting 
upon  it. 

asd. — The  weather  has  become  very  mild,  the  thermometer 
ranging  from  65°  to  75°,  indicating  our  approach  to  the  tropics ; 
and  as  a  further  proof  of  it,  we  saw,  this  morning,  a  beautiful 
tropic  bird,  (Phiston.)  It  sails  around  the  vessel  with  an  easy, 
graceful  sweep,  its  long  train  being  very  conspicuous,  and  suffi- 
ciently distinguishing  it  from  a  tern,  which,  in  other  respects,  it 
closely  resembles.  Its  voice  is  very  much  like  that  of  the  great 
tern,  {Sterna  hirundo,)  being  a  harsh,  loud,  and  gutteral  croak, 
emitted  while  sailing  high,  and  with  its  head  curved  downwards, 
examining  the  surface  of  the  sea  in  search  of  its  finny  prey. 

SOth. — For  the  last  four  or  five  days  we  have  been  making 
but  little  headway,  having  been,  occasionally,  almost  becalmed, 
and  not  going  at  any  time  more  than  two,  or  two  and  a  half 
knots.  The  weather  is  so  warm  that  our  upper  garments  have 
become  uncomfortable,  the  mean  of  the  thermometer  being  about 


\?IS' 


188 


NARRATIVE  OF  A  JOORNET 


77°,  but  we  have,  for  several  days  past,  been  favored  with  cool, 
refreshing  showers  in  the  evening,  which  tend  very  much  to  our 
comfort. 

Saw,  this  afternoon,  in  latitude  23°  20'  N.,  longitude  149°  30' 
W.,  a  *'  school"  of  eight  or  ten  sperm,  whales.  Several  passed 
within  twenty  yards  of  the  vessel,  and  we  had  an  excellent 
opportunity  of  observing  them.  They  were  so  near  that  we 
could  distinctly  see  the  expansion  of  the  nostrils  as  they  spouted 
the  brine  before  them,  with  a  noise  like  the  blowing  of  a  mighty 
forge.  There  were  among  them  several  calves,  which  were 
sporting  around  their  dams,  sometimes  dashing  against  them 
head  foremost,  and  gliding  half  out  of  water  upon  the  backs  of 
the  old  ones. 

We  were  followed  to«day  by  several  large  dolphins.  I  had 
often  heard  of  the  surpassing  beauty  of  this  fish,  but  my  imagi- 
nation  had  never  pictured  any  thing  half  so  splendid  as  I  then 
witnessed.  We  were  going  at  about  three  knots,  and  the  fish 
easily  kept  up  with  us,  swimming  in  the  wake  without  any  appao 
rent  exertion,  or  even  motion  of  their  fins.  At  one  moment  they 
appeared  to  be  of  a  clear,  uniform  grass-green,  glistening  and 
sparkling  in  the  waves  like  emeralds,  and  in  the  next,  they  had 
changed  their  color  wholly,  appearing  of  an  iridescent  purple, 
with  large  oval  spots  of  green  and  shining  red ;  again,  they 
were  speckled  and  striped  with  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow, 
but  without  any  one  appearing  predominant,  and  these  changes 
were  going  on  every  minute  while  they  remained  near  us,  which 
was  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour.  When  caught,  and  taken 
from  the  water,  it  is  said  that  these  changes  occur  precisely  as 
when  in  their  native  element,  with  scarcely  any  diminution  of 
brilliancy;  and  as  vitality  becomes  less  active,  the  variations  are 
less  frequent,  until  the  colors  finally  settle  into  a  dark  greenish 
hue,  and  the  animal  is  dead. 

January  2d,  1835. — This  evening  at  5  o'clock,  we  made  dis* 

■        If  "  -T    ■ 


AUR08S  THB   ROOKY   MOVIfTAIIfB,  ETC. 


180 


tinctly,  the  head  land  of  three  of  the  Sandwich  group,  Hawaii, 
Maui,  and  Morokai,  being  within  about  eighteen  miles  of  the 
nearest.  We  have  now  light  trade  winds  which  bear  us  at  the 
rate  of  five  knots,  and  an  unusually  smooth  and  placid  sea.  This, 
combined  with  the  free,  unwavering  breeze,  is  considered  by  our 
mariners  as  a  fortunate  circumstance  for  us,  particularly,  as  we 
shall  approach,  and  perhaps  pass  the  dangerous  rocky  coast  of 
Maui  in  the  night.  It  is  much  more  common  for  vessels  to  feel 
the  land  breeze,  as  they  near  it,  setting  them  ofi*  shore,  while  the 
trades,  operating  in  a  contrary  direction,  they  become  unmanage- 
able, and  not  unfrequently  founder  upon  the  rocks.  This  has 
been  the  fate  of  a  number  of  vessels  approaching  as  we  are  at 
present,  and  our  skilful  and  careful  captain,  always  on  the  alert 
and  anxious  in  situations  of  apprehended  danger,  is  at  this  moment 
pacing  the  quarter-deck,  giving  directions  regarding  the  manage* 
ment  of  the  vessel,  in  tones  as  firm,  and  with  a  decision  as 
prompt  as  ever;  but  through  it  all,  he  cannot  conceal  the  anxiety 
under  which  he  is  evidently  laboring.  We  passengers  consider 
ourselves  perfectly  safe  under  such  good  guardianship,  but  can* 
not  help  feeling  for  the  captain,  who  to  insure  our  safety  is  losing 
the  repose  which  he  absolutely  requires. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  4th,  we  ran  by  several  islands,  and  all 
within  five  miles.  We  could  distinctly  see  the  lofty  and  precipi- 
tous rocks  of  the  coast,  the  deep  ravines  between  them,  and,  by 
the  assistance  of  our  glasses,  the  green  and  rich  looking  vege- 
tation of  the  interrupted  plains.. 

At  noon  next  day,  we  made  the  island  of  Oahu,  our  destination, 
distant  about  forty  miles.  •  In  the  evening  we  were  enabled  to 
run,  the  moon  shining  brightly,  and  the  atmosphere  being  unu- 
sually free  from  haze.  At  10  o'clock  we  were  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  island,  so  that  we  could  distinctly  see  a  number  of 
lights  from  the  huts  on  the  beach ;  we  let  go  our  anchor  off  a 


100 


NAKRATIVB  OF  A   JOURNEY 


point  called  Diamond  hill ;  and  soon  after,  the  mountain  rangea, 
and  the  quiet  valleys  echoed  the  report  of  our  pilot  gun. 

As  I  leaned  over  the  rail  this  evening,  gazing  at  the  shore  on 
our  quarter,  with  its  lofty  peaks,  and  lovely  sleeping  vales,  clearly 
defined  by  the  light  of  the  full  orbed  moon,  I  thought  I  never  had 
witnessed  any  thing  so  perfectly  enchanting.  The  warm  breeze 
which  came  in  gentle  puifs  from  the  land,  seemed  to  bear  IVb' 
grance  on  its  wings,  and  to  discourse  of  the  rich  and  sunny 
climes  from  which  it  came.  The  whole  scene  was  to  me  like 
fairy  land.  I  thought  of  Captain  Cook,  and  fancied  his  having 
been  here,  and  gazing  with  delighted  eyes  upon  the  very  pros> 
pect  before  me,  little  dreaming,  that  after  all  he  had  endured,  he 
should  here  be  sacrificed  by  the  very  people  to  whom  ho  hoped 
to  prove  a  benefactor  and  friend.  The  noise  and  bustle  on  deck, 
sailors  running  to  and  fro  making  the  ship  "  snug"  for  harbor, 
and  all  the  preparations  for  an  arrival,  effectually  banished  my 
meditations,  and  I  descended  to  my  state  room,  to  sleep  away  the 
tedious  hours,  'till  the  morrow  should  reveal  all  the  new  and 
strange  features  of  the  land  to  which  we  had  come. 


hh 


ACR08I  THR  ROOXV  MOVNTAINt,  MTO. 


191 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Jtmoruru—JVative canoet—Jmphlbtinu  haUti—Caplain  Charlton,  hii  Brilanie 
Mt^e$ty'$  cotuul—Mr,  Jonu,  thi  Am»rlean  eemul-^teepUon  by  hlm—Dn- 
eripUm  of  the  town,  and  tf  tht  nativei—J'arly-eolortd  hair  iifthe  wmun— 
The  pagoda— A  vintfrom  Rev.  Niram  Mingham,  the  mt»iinnar]f'-Optniont 
regarding  tht  mieilonary  fraternity— Firil  vlnn  of  the  Mng,  ITatHkeaouH— 
his  train — Seaman's  chapel~Ji  visit  to  the  native  ehureh—Klnau  and  Xektf 
anoa — Orderly  conduct  qf  the  natives  during  worship— Introduction  to  the 
king— His  fondness  for  the  chase,andatUetle  exerelsu—Mulve  food— Man- 
ner <f  eating— The  rumi-rumi—its  effieaey—A  Jm  au  party— The  valley  of 

■  Mumo—A  visit  to  the  Pari— The  last  battle  ef  Tamihemaha—A  feast- 
Manner  qf  cooking— A  party  qf  native  ladies— An  udventure. 


Early  on  the  moraing  of  tho  5th,  Mr.  Reynolds,  the  deputy 
pilot,  boarded  us  in  a  whale  boat  manned  by  natives,  and  accom- 
panied  by  two  American  gentlemen,  rctident«  of  the  town  ofHo- 
noruru, — Captain  William  S.  Hinckley  and  P.  A.  Brinsmade, 
Esq.  Our  anchor  was  soon  weighed,  and  with  a  fine,  free  wind, 
we  rounded  Diamond  hill,  and  pasted  along  a  beautifbl  indenta* 
tion  in  the  shore,  called  Waititi  bay,  within  tight  of  a  large  coral 
reef,  by  which  the  whole  island  is  surrounded.  We  very  soon 
came  in  view  of  the  lovely,  sylvan  looking  villoge  of  Honoruru. 
The  shore  below  the  town  from  Waititi,  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance above,  is  fringed  with  grocoAll  cocoanut  trees,  with  here 
and  there  a  pretty  little  grass  cottage,  reposing  under  their 
shade.  As  we  approached  tho  harbor,  these  cottages  became 
more  numerous,  until  at  last  thoy  appfiared  thickly  grouped  to- 
gether, with  occasionally  a  pretty  garden  dividing  them.    The 


192 


IfABBATIVB  OF  A  JOURNIT 


fort,  too,  which  fronts  the  ocean,  with  its  clean,  white  washed  walls, 
and  cannon  frowning  from  the  embrazures,  adds  very  much  to 
the  efllect  of  the  scene ;  while  behind,  the  noble  hills  and  fertile 
valleys  between,  clothed  with  the  richest  verdure,  soften  down 
and  mellow  the  whole,  and  render  the  prospect  indescribably 
beautiful. 

On  nearing  the  shore,  we  observed  some  scores  of  curiously 
formed  canoes,  with  large  outriggers,  which  had  just  put  off,  and 
were  bound  out  on  a  fishing  excursion.  A  number  of  these 
passed  close  to  our  vessel,  and  usually  paused  when  opposite, 
that  the  denuded  mariners  might  have  an  opportunity  of  survey- 
ing the  strangers,  and  of  bidding  them  welcome  to  their  shores, 
by  a  loud  and  gay  Aroha.  Near  the  land  a  number  of  natives, 
of  both  sexes,  were  swimming  and  playing  in  the  surf,  and 
diving  to  the  bottom  searching  for  echina,  and  sea  weeds,  re- 
maining under  the  water  for  a  considerable  time,  while  their 
heels  were  seen  moving  to  and  fro  above  the  surface. 

Our  brig  soon  entered  the  narrow  channel,  opposite  the  harbor, 
and  with  a  light,  but  steady  breeze,  stood  in  close  to  the  town 
and  let  go  her  anchor  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  shore.  As 
we  were  about  leaving  the  vessel.  Captain  Charlton,  H.  B.  M. 
consul,  and  Captain  W.  Darby  of  the  H.  B.  Co.'s  brig  E^agle 
came  on  board,  and  gave  Mr.  N.  and  myself  a  passage  to  the 
shore  in  their  boat.  They  walked  with  us  to  the  house  of  Mr. 
Jones,  the  American  cihisuI,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  from  my 
friend  Doctor  M.  Burrough,  of  Philadelphia.  We  were  received 
by  this  gentleman  in  a  manner  calculated  to  make  us  feel  per- 
fectly at  home;  a  good  and  comfortable  house  was  immediately 
provided  for  us,  and  every  assistance  was  offered  in  forwarding 
our  views.  We  dined  at  the  sumptuous  table  of  W.  French,  Esq.,  an 
American  gentleman,  and  one  of  the  most  thriving  merchants  of 
the  town,  and  were  here  introduced  to  several  highly  respectable 
foreign  residents.  Captain  B.  Grimes,  Doctor  Thomas,  Dr.  Rooke* 


of 
ble 
ke« 


AOB088   TUB   KOCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC.  108 

Mr.  Paty,  and  others.    In  the  allernoou  we  strolled  out  with  two 
or  three  gentlemen  to  view  the  village  and  its  environs. 

The  town  of  Honoruru  contains  about  three  hundred  houses, 
the  great  majority  of  which  are  composed  of  grass  exclusively, 
and  those  occupied  by  the  natives  consist  of  a  single  room. 
Others,  in  which  many  of  the  foreigners  reside,  are  partitioned 
with  boards,  and  form  as  comfortable  and  agreeable  residences 
as  could  be  desired  in  a  climate  always  warm.  There  are  some 
few  houses  of  frame,  and  several  of  coral  rock,  built  by  the  resi- 
dent merchants  and  missionaries;  but  they  are  certainly  not 
superior,  except  in  being  more  durable,  to  those  of  grass,  and 
probably  not  so  comfortable  in  the  intensely  hot  seasons.  The 
houses  are  scattered  about  without  any  regard  to  regularity,  the 
hard,  clay  passage-ways  winding  amongst  them  in  every  direc- 
tion ;  but  an  air  of  neatness  and  simple  elegance  prervades  the 
whole,  which  cannot  fail  to  make  a  favorable  impression  on  the 
stranger. 

The  natives  are  generally  remarkably  well  formed,  of  a  dark 
copper  color,  with  pleasant  and  rather  intellectual  countenances, 
and  many  of  the  women  are  handsome. 

The  dress  of  the  men,  not  in  the  employment  of  the  whites, 
consists  of  a  large  piece  of  native  cloth,  called  a  Tapa,  or  a  robe 
of  calico  thrown  loosely  round  the  body,  somewhat  like  the 
Roman  toga,  and  knotted  on  the  lefl  shoulder.  The  women  wear 
a  loose  gown  of  calico,  or  native  cloth,  fastened  tightly  round  the 
neck,  but  not  bound  at  the  waist,  and  often  with  the  addition  of 
several  yards  of  cotton  clotb  tied  round  above  the  hips. 

Their  hair  is  generally  of  a  beautiful  glossy  black,  and  of  un- 
usual fineness ;  it  is  folded  around  the  back  part  of  the  head, 
very  much  in  the  manner  common  to  our  ladies  at  home,  and 
splendid  tortoise  shell  combs,  of  their  own  manufacture,  are  used 
to  confine  it.    They  display  much  taste  in  the  arrangement  of 

wild  flowers  amongst  their  hair,  and  a  common  ornament  for  the 

25 


1'^ 


";»! 


194 


u 


NABBATIVB  OF  A   JOVBITBT 


^ 


forehead  is  the  Re  of  beautiAil  yellow  feathers  which  is  bound 
•  upon  it.  I  have  repeatedly  seen  women  with  hair  of  two,  and,  in 
some  instances,  of  three  distinct  colors.  Deep  black  and  chestnut- 
brown;  not  promiscuously  mingled  throughout,  but  lying  in 
separate  masses;  and  in  the  rare  instances  of  which  I  have 
spoken,  they  were  black,  brown,  and  a  kind  of  ash  color,  giving 
to  the  head  a  most  singular  appearance.  I  had  supposed  that 
this  party-colored  character  of  the  hair  was  the  effect  of  art,  but 
was  soon  informed  to  the  contrary,  and  perceived  that  by  the 
natives  themselves  it  was  considered  a  deformity. 

8th. — Mr.  N.  and  myself  are  now  fairly  domiciliated.  We  occu- 
py a  large  and  commodious  room,  in  a  building  called  the  Pagoda, 
which  is  in  a  central  part  of  the  town ;  from  our  front  windows 
we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor  and  the  shipping,  and  from  a 
balcony  in  the  rear,  we  can  see  almost  the  entire  length  of  the 
lovely  valley  of  Nuano,  with  its  bold  and  rugged  rocks,  and  the 
luxuriant  verdure  on  their  sides;  while  nearer,  the  little  square 
taro  patches,  crowded  together  over  the  intermediate  plain,  look 
like  pretty  garden  plots,  as  the  broad  green  leaves  of  the  plant 
are  tinted  by  the  sunbeams. 

In  the  afternoon,  a  gentleman  somewhat  past  middle  age,  in 
a  plain,  but  neat  garb,  called  upon  me,  and  introduced  himself 
as  the  Rev.  Hiram  Bingham,  one  of  the  missionaries  resident 
upon  the  island.  He  gave  me  a  very  interesting  account  of  the 
first  landing  and  establishment  of  the  missionaries  at  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  and  discoursed  very  pleasantly  upon  ordinary 
topics  for  half  an  hour.  As  Mr.  N.  was  absent  on  a  concholo- 
gical  excursion,  I  had  the  good  man  all  to  myself,  and  I  may 
truly  say,  I  have  rarely  spent  a  half  hour  more  agreeably.  I 
was  particularly  interested  in  Mr.  Bingham,  from  the  circum- 
stance of  his  being  one  of  the  oldest  missionaries  at  these  islands, 
and  from  the  knowledge  (which  I  had  before  acquired)  of  the 
very  great  influence  he  had  exerted  in  the  establishment  of  the 


/; 


ACBOM  THI  aOOKT   MOVIITAIIfl,  ITO. 


195 


may 
I 

5um- 

mds, 

the 

the 


missions,  and  of  the  excellent  condition  to  which  they  had  attain- 
ed under  his  supervision  and  guardianship. 

It  is  well  known  to  all  who  visit  the  Sandwich  Islands,  as  well 
as  to  many  at  home  who  have  friends  residing  there,  that  the 
missionaries  are  exceedingly  unpopular  amongst  the  resident  fo- 
reigners. Why  it  is,  or  should  be  so,  I  will  not  stop  to  inquire, 
but  will  merely  remark,  that  so  far  as  my  own  intercourse  with 
these  missionaries  has  extended,  and  according  to  the  opportuni- 
ties I  have  had  of  judging  of  the  relative  merits  of  the  case,  my 
opinion  decidedly  is,  that  there  is  no  good  and  sufficient  reason 
for  this  ill-feeling.  Who  are  the  missionaries  ?  They  are  men 
who  have  left  the  homes  of  their  childhood,  the  parents,  the  bro- 
thers, the  sisters,  the  friends  of  their  bosoms,  and  for  what  7  To 
dwell  in  distant  lands,  among  the  uncivilized  and  the  barbarous ; 
to  labor  for  these  with  all  the  energy  of  their  minds  and  bodies; 
and  for  this  they  receive  so  trifling  a  compensation,  that  nothing 
except  the  reward  of  a  good  conscience,  and  of  a  life  spent  in  the 
noblest  service  that  can  engage  the  bodily  and  mental  powers  of 
a  Christian,  could  ever  induce  them  to  engage  in  it.  Why,  then, 
should  they  be  opposed  ?  Why  should  those  calling  themselves 
Christians,  /take  every  possible  opportunity  of  thwarting  and 
rendering  null  the  labors  of  men  such  as  these?  Grant  that 
there  may  be  bad  and  designing  persons  among  them,  does  this 
circumstance  afllect  the  cause  itself?  Surely  not.  Why  then 
should  not  the  foreigners,  instead  of  opposing  and  laboring  to 
subvert  their  measures,  endeavor  to  aid  these  devoted  people 
in  their  most  laborious  task,  or  if  they  do  not  aid,  let  them  at 
least  assume  a  neutrality,  and  neither  place  themselves  in  the 
ranks  of  opposition,  nor  endeavor  to  induce  others  to  do  so. 

lOth. — This  morning  I  saw  the  king  for  the  first  time.  He  is 
a  very  young  man,  only  about  twenty  years  of  age,  of  ordinary 
size,  and  rather  ordinary  appearance.  He  was  dressed  in  a  little 
blue  jacket,  such  as  is  worn  by  sailors  when  ashore,  white  panta- 


106 


IfABIATIVD  or  A  JOVH!flT 


loons,  and  common  black  hat.  He  was  walking  in  the  street  at 
a  rapid,  and  not  ve**/  dignified  gate,  and  wos  followed  closely  by 
about  twenty  natives.  Some  of  these  were  rather  fantastically 
dressed,  with  old  naval  coats  and  rusty  epaulets,  which  had  seen 
long  service,  and  huge  sabres  with  iron  scabbards,  which  jingled 
on  the  ground  as  the  wearer  stalked  majestically  along.  Others 
were  habited  plainly,  like  their  master,  and  some  few  were  of  the 
true  tatterdemalion  school.  I  had  the  curiosity  to  follow  the 
royal  escort  for  a  little  way  to  see  what  would  become  of  them 
all ;  thf)y  soon  turned  a  corner  and  halted  near  a  little  waggon 
which  had  just  stopped.  The  king  approached  the  vehicle  and 
handed  from  it  an  old  and  venerable  looking  native,  (who  I 
afterwards  learned  was  the  chief  Kekeoeva,  the  former  guardian 
of  the  king,)  ond  they  walked  off  arm  in  urm  in  a  very  afibction* 
ate  manner,  followed,  as  before,  by  the  motley  group  of  retainers. 

The  natives  have  very  generally  become  acquainted  with  the 
pursuits  of  my  companion  and  myself,  and  at  almost  all  hours  of 
the  day,  our  mansion  is  bescigcd  by  men,  women  and  childreii. 
Some  bring  shells,  pearls,  living  birds,  cocoanuts,  bananas,  &c., 
to  sell,  and  others  are  attracted  by  curiosity  to  see  us,  which  is 
no  doubt  much  excited  in  regard  to  the  use  which  wo  intend 
making  of  all  the  strange  things  they  bring  us. 

Sunday,  llth. — Mr.  Jones,  the  consul,  called  for  us  this 
morning,  and  we  accompanied  him  to  the  Seamen's  chapel  in 
our  neighborhood,  the  only  church  in  the  town  in  which  English 
service  is  performed.  The  chapel  is  a  handsome  building  of 
adobes,  or  sun-dried  bricks,  lately  erected,  and,  as  its  name  im- 
ports, is  intended  chiefly  for  the  benefit  of  the  mariners  who  visit 
the  island.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  handsome  dome  and  belfry  of 
wood,  from  which  the  bell  was  pealing  out  its  solemn  notes  as  we 
approached  it.  The  Rev.  John  Deill,  the  pastor,  ofliciated,  to 
whom  we  were  introduced  at  the  conclusion  of  the  service. 
"■'  In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  N.  and  myself  walked  with  the  consul  to 


ACROM   TUI   aOOKY    MOUlTrAIIfS,   BTC. 


197 


Ito 


the  native  church,  at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  town.    This  is 
an  enormous  building,  one  hundred  and  ninety-six  feet  in  length 
by  lixty  in  breadth,  and  capable  of  containing  four  thousand 
people.     It  is  built  in  the  native  style,  of  grass  tied  in  bundles  on 
a  rude  frame  work  of  sticks,  and  the  ridge  pole,  which  extends 
along  the.  whole  length  of  the  apex  of  the  roof  within,  is  support- 
ed by  numerous  roughly  hewn  pillars  driven  into  the  ground. 
The  natives,  in  great  numbers,  wore  flocking  to  the  church  ;  men 
in  every  variety  of  costume,  from  the  plain  and  dignified  dress  of 
the  European  gentleman,  to  the  simple  and  primitive  tapa  or 
native  cloth ;  and  women,  from  the  gay  hat  and  feathers,  silk 
gowns  and  stays  of  polished  life,  to  the  light  and  much  better 
adapted  robe  of  the  country,  with  its  invariable  accompaniment, 
the  pau  or  waist-fillet  of  figured  calico.    While  we  were  stand- 
ing, surveying  the  moving  throng,  we  observed  a  little  two 
wheeled  cart  approach,  drawn  by  four  men  in  the  native  dress,  in 
which  sat  one  of  the  great  rotund  beauties  of  the  island,  attired  in 
gay  silk,  with  a  large  black  hat,  from  which  drooped  a  magni- 
ficent ostrich  feather.    This  was  JSTtnaw,  the  ex-queen,  and  wife 
of  Kekuanoa,  the  commandante  of  the  fort,  commonly  called  the 
colonel.     At  the  door  of  the  church  she  was  assisted  to  dis- 
mount ;  and  ns  she  swept  along  by  us  and  entered  the  aisle,  she 
made  us  a  low  and  graceful  bow,  tossing  back  her  great  head, 
and  looking  around  upon  the  company  assembled,  with  the  air 
of  one  who  expected  profound  admiration  and  unlimited  homage. 
In  the  church,  we  were  invited  by  Kekuanoa  to  take  a  seat  on  the 
bench  beside  him  and  his  wife ;  and  when  Mr.  Bingham  commenced 
the  service  by  reading  a  native  hymn,  Kinau  did  me  the  honor  to 
present  me  with  her  book,  pointing  to  the  place  with  a  dignified 
and  patronising  air,  which  I  acknowledged  with  all  suitable 
respect. 

The  sermon,  in  the  native  language,  by  Mr.  Bingham,  was 
delivered  in  an  easy  and  fluent  manner,  and  in  the  whole  of  the 


m 


w 


198 


NABRATIVB  OF   A   JOVRITBY 


great  concourse  there  was  scarcely  a  movement  during  the 
service.  All  seemed  deeply  engaged  in  the  business  for  which 
they  had  assembled  ;  and  as  I  looked  around  upon  the  quiet  and 
attentive  multitude,  a  comparison  with  the  wild  and  idolatrous 
scenes  which  their  assemblies  exhibited  in  times  past  was  irresist- 
ibly forced  upon  me. 

A  few  days  after  this  I  was  introduced  by  Captain  Charlton, 
his  Britanic  majesty's  consul,  to  the  king  Kavikeaovli,  or 
Tamehameha  III.,  as  he  is  sometimes  called.  He  was  accom- 
panied  by  John  Young,  one  of  his  prime  favorites,  a  fine,  noble 
looking  young  man,  who  I  thought  looked  much  more  like  a  king 
than  his  master.  His  majesty  was  very  condescending  and  kind. 
He  conversed  easily  and  freely,  though  in  broken  English,  and 
having  understood  that  I  had  been  somewhat  of  a  traveller,  was 
very  curiQus  to  hear  my  adventures  through  the  wild  regions  of  the 
west.  The  stories  of  buffalo  and  grizzly  bear  hunting  pleased 
him  particularly,  and  his  dark  eye  actually  glittered  as  I 
recounted  to  him  the  stirring  and  thrilling  incidents  of  the  wild 
buffalo  chace,  and  the  no  less  moving  perils  of  the  encounter  with 
the  fierce  bear  of  the  prairies.  He  remarked  that  he  should 
enjoy  such  hunting ;  that  here  there  was  nothing  for  his  amuse- 
ment but  the  chasing  of  wild  cattle,  and  the  common  athletic  exer- 
cise of  quoits,  bar-heaving,  &c. ,  but  he  should  like  to  see  these 
big  buffalo  and  bears,  and  then  asked  me,  with  great  simplicity, 
if  I  supposed  he  could  kill  them. 

The  king  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  strongest  and  most  active 
men  on  the  island.  He  is  not  yet  encumbered  with  flesh,  like 
most  of  the  chiefs,  and  he  has  all  the  elasticity  and  vigor  of 
youth,  superadded  to  a  naturally  strong  and  robust  frame.  He 
has  a  great  fancy  for  all  kinds  of  break-neck  adventures,  and  I 
have  no  doubt,  that,  were  he  transplanted  to  the  plains  of  the 
west,  he  would  soon  be  a  hunter  of  the  first  water. 

The  food  of  the  natives,  consists  principally  of  an  article  called 


A6H0li  tun  SOOKY   K0VNTAIN8,  ETC. 


199 


poe,  wbieh  i«  made  by  beating  the  baked  roots  of  the  tare, 
{Arum  eteulentum,)  on  a  sort  of  wooden  trencher,  witli  a  large 
oval  itarWi  Tha  mass  so  prepared  is  mixed  with  a  small  quan> 
tity  of  wateft  and  set  aside  for  several  days  to  ferment,  when 
it  becomsi  abeut  of  the  consistence  of  paper  hanger's  paste. 
ThiHf  with  fi»h,  either  raw  or  baked,  constitutes  almost  the  sole 
food  of  the  eommon  people.  Give  a  Sandwich  Islander  plenty  of 
poe,  with  a  raw  fltth  or  two,  at  each  meal,  and  he  asks  for  nothing 
more ;  deprive  him  of  his  dear  loved  sour  paste,  and  he  loses  his 
iipirlts,  and  \n  mitterablo.  I  have  seen  this  strikingly  shown  in 
the  mm  of  the  Islanders  at  the  Columbia.  The  poor  Kanakas 
tried  their  utmest  to  manufacture  o  sort  of  poe — sweet  potatoes, 
Irish  potatoei)  and  even  wappatoos,  were  operated  upon,  but  all 
to  no  purpoie  |  and  when  our  brig  left  the  river,  their  farewell's 
to  ui  were  mingled  with  desires  loudly  expressed,  that  on  our 
return,  we  weuld  bring  them  each  a  calabash  of  poe. 

The  manner  in  which  an  islander  takes  his  food  is  primitive 
to  the  lait  degree.  He  seats  himself  cross-legged  upon  the 
ground  with  hii  eulabash  before  him,  and  a  fish  and  a  little  pile 
of  salt  on  a  wooden  dish  by  his  side.  His  two  first  fingers  are 
immeriied  in  the  paste,  and  stirred  round  several  times  until 
enough  adheres  to  eoat  them  thickly,  when  they  are  carried  by  a 
quick  motion  to  the  mouth,  which  is  open  to  receive  them,  and  are 
aucked  elean— a  little  pinch  with  the  fingers  is  then  taken  of 
the  fiah  whieh  io  perhaps  floundering  beside  him,  followed  by  a 
Bimilar  pineh  of  ialt,  to  season  the  whole  repast. 

Thep.'inelpal  beauty  of  the  islanders,  in  their  own  estimation,  con- 
sists in  their  being  enormously  fat,  some  of  them  weighing  upwards 
of  three  hundred  pounds,  and  measures  are  consequently  resorted 
to,  that  will  lueceilAjlly  ond  expeditiously  produce  this  much 
desired  result.  With  this  view,  the  chiefs  take  but  little  exercise, 
and  eat  enormouily  of  the  nutritive  paste  before  spoken  of. 
After  they  have  atufTod  as  much  as  their  stomachs  will  contain, 


-If 


IVARRATIVB   OF   A   JOURNEY 


without  the  risk  of  positive  suffocation,  they  roll  over  on  their 
bocks  upon  the  ground,  grunting  like  huge  swine,  when  two 
attendants  approach  and  place  themselves  on  each  side  of  the 
patient.  One  wields  a  kahili,  or  feather  fly  brush,  to  cool  his 
mastor,  and  keep  off  the  mosquetoes,  while  the  other  commences 
his  operations  by  punching  his  fist  violently  into  the  stomach  of 
the  fbtlen  man,  *vho,  with  a  great  snort,  acknowledges  his  con- 
ieiousness,  and  the  pleasure  he  derives  from  it.  Soon  the  other 
fist  of  the  serving  man  follows,  and  the  regular  kneading  process 
is  [lerformed ;  at  first,  slowly  and  cautiously,  but  gradually  in- 
ereosing  in  quickness  and  severity  until  the  attendant  is  forced 
to  stop  for  breath,  and  the  poor  stupificd  lump  of  obesity  forgets 
to  grunt  in  unison  with  the  rapidly  descending  blows.  This  is 
the  operation  called  rumi-rumi,  and  is  usually  continued  from 
ten  to  fiHeen  minutes,  afler  which  the  patient  rises,  yawns, 
■tretehos  his  limbs,  and  calls  loudly  for  another  calabash  of  poe. 
This  custom  is  followed  almost  exclusively  by  the  chiefs,  but  is 
not  confined  to  the  male  sex,  the  women  enjoying  the  luxury 
equally  with  the  men.  The  rumi-rumi  is  also  practised  in  cases 
of  abdominal  pains,  and  in  dyspeptic  complaints.  Even  the  fo- 
reigners sometimes  resort  to  it,  and  find  it  beneficial. 

nth.'—Mt.  N.  and  myself  were  invited  to  participate  in  a 
lu-au  dinner,  to  be  given  in  the  valley  of  Nuano  this  ailernoon. 
At  about  3  o'clock,  Mr.  Jones  called  for  us,  and  furnished  us 
with  good  horses,  upon  which  we  mounted,  and  galloped  off  to 
the  valley.  After  a  delightful  ride  of  about  five  miles,  over  a 
good,  though  rather  stony  road,  between  the  hills  which  enclose 
the  valley,  we  arrived  at  a  pretty  little  temporary  cottage,  formed 
entirely  of  the  broad  green  leaves  of  the  ti  plant,  and  perched  on 
a  picturesque  hill,  overlooking  the  whole  extent  of  our  ride. 
Here  wo  found  a  number  of  the  foreign  gentlemen;  others  soon 
joined  us,  and  our  company  consisted  of  fifty  or  sixty  persons. 


a 
u 
t( 
a 

hi 
hi 

w 

SI 

si 
fa 
si 
ai 
hi 
di 
Pi 

S( 

a 

b; 

th 


ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


201 


the  king,  John  Youug,  and  several  other  distinguished  natives 
being  of  the  party. 

As  the  collation  was  not  yet  ready  to  be  served  up,  Mr.  Jones, 
Captain  Hinckley,  Mr.  N.  and  myself  remounted  our  horses  for  a 
visit  to  the  great  pari,  or  precipice,  two  miles  above.  We  found 
the  road  somewhat  rough,  and  very  hilly,  in  some  places  ex- 
tremely narrow,  and  the  path  wound  constantly  through  bushes 
and  tall  ferns  to  the  elevated  land  which  we  were  approaching. 
When  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  precipice,  we  led  our 
horses  in  charge  of  several  native  boys,  who  had  followed  us  for 
the  purpose,  and  ascended  to  the  edge  of  the  pari.  The  wind 
was  blowing  a  gale,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to  remove  our  hats 
and  bind  up  our  heads  with  handkerchiefs,  and  when  we  stood 
upon  the  cliff,  some  care  was  required  to  keep  our  footing,  and 
to  brace  ourselves  against  the  furious  blast  which  was  eddying 
around  the  summit. 

The  pari  is  an  almost  perpendicular  precipice,  of  about  six 
hundred  feet,  composed  of  basaltic  rock,  with  occasional  strata  of 
hard  white  clay. 

On  the  north  is  seen  the  fertile  and  beautiful  valley  of  Kolau, 
with  its  neat  little  cottages,  taro-patches  and  fields  of  sugar  cane, 
spread  out  before  you  like  a  picture  j  and  beyond,  is  the  indented 
shore,  with  its  high  and  pointed  cliffs,  margining  the  ocean  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  discern.  Down  this  precipice,  on  the  north 
side,  is  a  sort  of  rude  path,  which  the  natives  have  constructed, 
and  up  this  we  saw  a  number  of  them  toiling,  clinging  with  their 
hands  to  the  jutting  crags  abpve,  to  raise  and  support  their  bo- 
dies in  the  ascent.  As  they  approached  nearer  to  us,  I  was  sur- 
prised to  perceive  that  every  man  bore  a  burthen  on  his  shoulder ; 
some  had  large  calabashes  of  poe,  suspended  one  on  each  end  of 
a  long  pole,  and  others  carried  living  pigs,  similarly  suspended, 
by  having  their  feet  tied  together,  and  the  pole  passed  between 

them.    The  porkers,  although  hanging  buck  downwards,  in  a 

26 


■>lt' 


i 
I  I 


202 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


position  not  the  most  comfortable,  did  not  complain  of  the  treat- 
ment, until  they  were  deposited  on  the  terra  firma  of  the  summit, 
when  they  tuned  their  pipes  to  a  lusty  squeal,  and  made  amends 
for  their  former  silence. 

This  spot  is  the  scene  of  the  last  great  battle  of  King  Tame- 
hameha,  by  which  he  acquired  the  sole  and  absolute  sovereignty 
of  the  whole  Sandwich  group.  The  routed  army  of  the  petty 
island  king  was  driven  to  take  refuge  among  the  wild  crags  of  the 
pari,  and  hither  it  was  followed  by  the  conquering  forces  of  the 
invader.  No  quarter  was  shown.  The  fugitives  were  hunted 
like  savage  beasts,  and,  almost  to  a  man,  were  hurled  from  the 
giddy  height  and  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  frightful  rocks 
below. 

On  returning  to  the  cottage,  we  found  that  the  dinner  had 
been  dished  up,  and  that  the  guests  were  about  taking  their 
seats.  Our  table  was  the  green  grass,  upon  which  had  been 
arranged,  with  native  taste,  a  circular  table  cloth,  composed  of  ti 
leaves,  placed  one  above  another.  On  this  the  viands  were  laid. 
They  consisted  of  fat  pigs,  and  fat  dogs,  turkies,  chickens,  boiled 
ham,  and  fish,  with  vegetables  of  various  kinds,  taro,  sweet  po- 
tatoes, &c., — all  cooked  in  the  native  manner,  in  pits  made  in 
the  ground,  in  which  heated  stones  had  been  placed.  Each  pig 
and  dog  had  such  a  stone  within  him,  and  around  it  had  been 
wrapped  a  quantity  of  ti  leaves,  which  were  eaten  as  greens,  and 
were  excellent.  The  whole  of  the  cookery  was,  in  fact,  very  su- 
perior, and  would  have  delighted  the  most  fastidious  epicure  of  our 
own  enlightened  land.  We  had  also  various  liquors :  Champagne, 
cherry,  Madeira,  and  mountain  dew,  and  were  waited  upon  by 
native  men  and  boys,  with  chaplets  of  green  bound  around  their 
heads,  and  their  persons  profusely  ornamented  with  the  "  fern 
and  heather  of  their  native  valleys."  Among  the  attendants, 
Mr.  Mills,  or  Deacon  Mills,  as  he  is  sometimes  called,  stood  pre- 
eminent; he  acted  as  purveyor  and  major  domo;  wns  every 


ACBOaS  THE   ROCKY   U0VNTAIN8,  ETC. 


203 


where  at  the  same  moment,  and  ahowed,  by  his  uniform  con- 
duct, that  he  was  fully  alive  to  the  high  responsibilities  of  his 
office. 

When  the  meats  were  removed,  wine  usurped  the  board,  toasts 
were  drunk,  and  songs  were  sung,  and  all  was  hilarity  and 
cheerfulness. 

Towards  evening  the  whole  party  mounted  their  horses  and 
galloped  down  the  valley  into  the  town.  As  we  entered  the 
precincts  we  formed  ourselves  into  a  battalion,  and  reined  in  our 
horses  to  a  dignified  trot,  in  order  to  pass  a  troop  of  gay  native 
ladies  who  were  returning  from  a  visit  to  Waititi.  At  the  head 
of  this  equestrian  cavalcade,  I  was  surprised  to  observe  the  largo 
person  of  Madam  Kinau,  sitting  astride  upon  a  noble  steed  which 
evidently  made  an  effort  to  curvet  and  appear  pround  of  its 
queenly  burthen. 

While  we  were  proceeding  at  this  slow  gait,  a  man  suddenly 
sprang  up  behind  my  saddle  and  fixed  his  arms  firmly  around  my 
waist.  I  was  not  more  astonished  than  my  horse  at  this  intru- 
sion ;  and  the  spirited  animal  which  I  rode,  not  being  accustomed 
to  carrying  double,  and  feeling  unwilling  to  be  so  imposed  upon, 
began  kicking  up  his  heels,  and  darting  wildly  about  the  road.  I 
requested  the  intruder  to  dismount  instantly,  but  the  only  atten- 
tion which  was  paid  to  this  was  a  reply,  in  the  native  language, 
which  I  did  not  understand.  Supposing  him  to  be  one  of  the  ser- 
vants who  had  been  heated  by  the  refuse  wine  of  the  feast,  and  con- 
sidering myself  in  real  danger  from  the  unruly  conduct  of  my  horse, 
I  turned  half  round  and  dealt  "my  merry  companion  a  blow  in  the 
chest,  which  I  intended  should  have  unseated  him.  How  was  I 
astonished  to  hear  the  exclamation,  "  don't  strike  so  hard,  Aaurt," 
from  him  who  occupied  my  crupper,  and  I  was  not  long  in 
discovering  that  the  joker  was  the  king,  Kauikeaouli,  himself.  I 
apologized  in  the  best  manner  I  could,  though  out  of  breath  with 


I 


ii 


NARRATIVB   OF  A  JOURNEY 


the  exertion  of  restraining  the  fiery  horse.  His  majesty  did  not 
seem  in  the  least  ofTended,  but  passing  one  arm  each  side  of  me, 
and  taking  the  bridle  in  his  hands,  he  guided  the  animal  into  one 
of  the  largest  stores  of  the  town,  through  which  we  went  jumping 
and  prancing,  followed  by  all  the  king's  train,  and  several  white 
men  of  the  party. 


lOt 

le, 
ne 

to 


ACROSS  THI  BOCKV  HOVNTAlNi,  KTO. 


365 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Viitt  to  the  island  of  Kauai-'A  royal  tall—Kn'.  P.  3.  Oullch,  the  minion- 
ary—Deicription  qfthe  itlani—Jl  pmiint  from  Kauiktitoull—lioyal  mode  of 
obtaining  nifpliei—A  change  t^f  rtiidetift—Kj'euriloni  through  the  coun- 
try—Birds— JSTative  method  of  catching  tfum—'J'hi  travellers  wind-bound — 
Shell  hunting— Habile  of  the  natiwe'-Htach  fond,  ami  mode  t^f  eating  it — 
Vieit  of  the  king,  and  governor  A'ekioem—Cltariicterlittct  of  the  latter — 
Anxiety  of  the  king  to  return  home— Arrival  (\f  fill  followere—A  metamor- 
phoii»—A  royal  tupfer— Evening  »erviet-'Uoi/ttt  guard— A  tail  in  tight- 
Joy  of  the  king — Hii  letter— Return  t\f  the  Avet^Departure  from  Xauai, 
and  arrival  at  Oahu—A  ple-nic  party  at  J'twt  river- Calabaeh  dance  by 
the  natives — Departure  for  Columbia  rivtr—A  primitive  putsage  to  tlie 
shore— A  storm  at  sea — A  flight  qf  iihort  hlr(tl— Land  ahead— Arrival  at  the 
Columbia. 

February  10th. — Mr.  Nuttall  and  myself  wore  kindly  invited  by 
Captain  Hinckley,  to  take  a  trip  with  him  to  the  island  of  Kauai, 
in  the  brig  Avon,  owned  by  him.  We  embarked  this  morning, 
and  with  the  pilot  on  board  sailed  out  of  the  harbor.  This  being 
one  of  the  leeward  islands,  towards  which  the  trade-winds  al- 
ways blow,  we  made  the  passage  quickly ;  and  in  the  evening 
ran  into  the  harbor  of  Koloa,  and  anchored  within  half  a  mile 
of  the  shore. 

The  next  morning  we  landed  in  our  boat,  nnd  took  possession 
of  a  large  untenanted  native  house,  ncor  the  beach,  belonging  to 
Captain  H.  Our  servant  busied  himself  in  making  our  new  re- 
sidence comfortable,  arranging  the  bijdding  and  mosquitoe  cur- 
tains, procuring  mats  for  partitions,  and,  fmally,  in  setting  before 
us  a  good  breakfast,  cookod  on  tho  spot.      We  had  sf  arcely 


k     \ 


206 


NABRATIVE  OF  A  JOURNEY 


finished  our  meal,  when  two  horsemen  rode  up,  and  dismounting 
at  the  door,  entered  the  house.  Our  visitors  proved  to  be  the 
king  and  John  Young,  who  had  mounted  their  horses  this  morn- 
ing for  a  cattle  hunt  on  the  hills,  but  hearing  of  the  arrival  of 
the  foreigners,  had  hastened  to  pay  their  respects  to  us,  and  as- 
sure  us  of  their  protection.  The  king,  and  his  train  came  a  few 
days  since  to  this  island,  and  propose  remaining  two  or  three  weeks 
longer ;  his  majesty's  object  appears  to  be  to  insi)ect  the  condition 
of  his  people  here,  and  to  give  them  an  opportunity  of  evincing 
their  loyalty  and  affection.  He  was  so  kind  as  to  express  much 
interest  for  Mr.  N.  and  myself,  gave  us  one  of  his  own  body 
servants  for  our  attendant,  while  we  remain,  and  promised  that 
in  the  aAernoon  he  would  send  us  some  provisions. 

Shortly  after  the  king  left  us,  we  were  visited  by  the  Rev.  P. 
J.  Gulick,the  missionary  of  this  station,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  from 
my  kind  friend,  Mr.  Deill,  and  after  sitting  half  an  hour,  we  ac- 
companied him  to  his  house,  about  a  mile  distant. 

This  part  of  the  island  of  Kauai  exhibits  no  particularly  in- 
teresting features :  from  the  beach  to  the  mission  station  there  is 
a  good  road  made  by  the  natives  over  a  gentle  ascent  of  about 
two  miles,  on  each  side  of  which  taro  patches,  yam  and  maize 
fields  abound.  Back  from  the  ocean  and  at  right  angles  with  it, 
are  seen  several  ranges  of  long,  high  hills,  with  narrow  valleys 
between ;  the  hills  are  covered  with  low  trees  of  Tu-tui' and  Pan- 
danus,  and  the  valleys  with  dense  bushes,  tall  ferns,  and  broad 
leaved  bananas. 

The  good  missionary  introduced  us  to  his  wife,  a  very  intelli- 
gent and  agreeable  woman,  and  to  his  three  pretty  children,  and 
we  spent  an  hour  with  them  very  pleasantly.  In  the  afternoon 
we  returned  to  our  cottage  near  the  beach,  where  we  found  a 
native  waiting  for  us  with  a  hand  cart  filled  with  provisions  of 
various  kinds,  which  he  said  the  king  had  sent  to  us  as  a 
present.    There  was  a  very  large  hog,  three  pigs,  three  or 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY   MOVNTAIITS,   ETC. 


207 


Tour  turkies,  and  several  pairs  of  chickens,  all  living;  with 
vegetables  in  great  abundance,  taro,  sweet-potatoes,  melons,  &c. 
I  thought  the  man  must  certainly  have  made  a  mistake,  but  he 
assured  me  that  it  was  right :  "  the  king  had  sent  them  to  the 
<  haurig'  (foreigners)  who  had  just  arrived,  and  wished  him  to 
say  that  in  tree  days  he  would  send  them  as  much  more."  His 
majesty  had  evidently  measured  our  appetites  by  the  standard  oi 
his  own  people,  and  we  determined  to  see  him  immediately,  and 
countermand  the  sumptuous  order  which  he  had  given.  It  may 
be  proper  here  to  remark,  that  when  the  king,  or  chiefs,  wish  a 
supply  of  provisions,  or  any  other  articles  in  which  the  common 
people  deal,  or  of  which  they  arc  possessed,  a  messenger  is  sent 
to  demand  such  things  in  the  name  of  the  master,  and  a  levy  is 
made  upon  the  property  of  the  poor  native,  without  any  kind  of 
compensation  being  ever  offered.  We  were  aware  that  our  pro- 
vision had  been  obtained  in  this  way,  and  were  unwilling  that  the 
industrious  poor  should  lose  their  labor  to  contribute  to  our  wants, 
preferring  to  buy  from  them  the  necessary  supplies. 

The  next  day  we  paid  another  visit  to  Mr.  Gulick,  and  ac- 
cepted a  pressing  invitation  to  make  our  home  with  him,  his 
house  being  much  more  convenient  to  the  valleys,  which  we 
wished  to  explore  in  search  of  birds  and  other  natural  objects. 
Here  we  had  another  interview  with  the  king,  who  insisted  upon 
our  occupying  a  fine  large  house  in  the  neighborhood  of  Mr. 
Gulick's  residence,  as  a  depository  for  our  collections.  We 
accepted  this  offer  with  pleasure,  and  the  missionary's  accommo- 
dation being  somewhat  contracted,  we  used  the  king's  house 
as  our  study  and  sleeping  apartment,  taking  our  meals  with  the 
family  of  our  kind  friend. 

We  made  here  several  long  excursions  over  the  hills  and 
through  the  deep  valleys,  without  much  success.  The  birds  are 
the  same  as  those  we  found  and  collected  at  Oahu,  but  are  not  so 
numerous.     They  are  principally  creepers  {Certhia)  and  honey- 


t  t 


208 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOVRITET 


auckera  (Nectarinia ;)  feed  chiefly  upon  flowers,  and  the  sweet 
juico  of  the  banana,  and  some  species  are  very  abundant.  The 
native  boys  here  have  adopted  a  singular  mode  of  catching  the 
honey  sucking  birds.  They  lay  themselves  flat  upon  their  backs 
on  the  ground,  and  cover  their  whole  bodies  with  bushes,  and 
the  campanulate  flowers  of  which  the  birds  are  in  search.  One 
of  these  flowers  is  then  held  by  the  lower  portion  of  the  tube  be- 
tween the  finger  and  thumb;  the  little  bird  inserts  his  long, 
curved  bill  to  the  base  of  the  flower,  when  it  is  immediately 
seized  by  the  Angers  of  the  boy,  and  the  little  fluttcrer  disappears 
beneath  the  mass  of  bushes.  In  this  way,  dozens  of  beautiful 
birds  are  taken,  and  they  are  brought  to  us  living  and  unin- 
jured. 

20th. — We  expected  to  have  left  the  island  several  days  ago, 
but  the  Avon  has  not  returned,  and  she  would  not  now  be 
able  to  come,  in  consequence  of  a  steady  S.  W.  wind  which  has 
prevailed  for  the  last  week.  Our  ammunition,  and  materials  for 
the  preparation  of  birds,  are  entirely  exhausted,  and  we  cannot 
here  obtain  a  supply,  so  we  amuse  ourselves  in  collecting  shells 
on  the  beaches,  plants,  fish,  &c.  We  are  living  very  comfort- 
ably in  the  house  furnished  us  by  the  king,  and  we  have  become 
completely  domesticated  in  the  agreeable  family  of  Mr.  Gulick. 
We  sometimes  spend  whole  days  wandering  along  the  rocky 
coast  in  search  of  shells,  and  in  these  journeys  we  are  always 
accompanied  by  a  troop  of  boys  and  girls,  and  sometimes  men 
and  women,  often  to  the  number  of  twenty  or  thirty.  They  are 
indefatigable  shell-hunters,  and  prove  of  great  service  to  us, 
being  compensated  for  each  one  that  they  bring  us,  with  pins  or 
needles.  In  their  habits  they  are  perfectly  amphibious,  diving 
into  the  sea,  and  through  the  dashing  surf  without  the  least  hesi- 
tation, and  exploring  the  bottom  for  an  almost  incredible  time 
without  rising  to  breathe.  ,  - 

In  these  sub-marine  excursions  they  frequently  find  the  echinus, 


h- 


ACROSS   THB   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


200 


with  spines  four  or  five  inches  in  length,  and  the  black,  lumpish 
substance  called  beche  la  mer.  Both  these  animals  are  eaten 
by  them  as  they  are  taken  living  from  the  water ;  the  spines  of 
the  former  are  knocked  off  against  the  rocks,  and  the  soft  con- 
tents of  the  case  sucked  out ;  the  latter,  after  having  the  tough 
outside  skin  removed,  are  eaten  like  biscuits  to  qualify  the  meal. 
There  is  also  another  sea  animal  which  is  considered  by  the  na- 
tives a  great  delicacy,  the  sepia,  or  cuttle  fish.  This  is  a  large, 
ill-looking  creature,  with  an  oval  body,  and  eight  or  ten  long 
arms  or  tentacula ;  within  the  cavity  of  the  thorax  is  a  sack, 
containing  a  fluid  resembling  ink,  and  as  the  teeth  are  sunk  into 
this,  the  black  juice  squirts  into  the  face  of  the  masticator,  while 
the  long  feelers  are  twisting  about  his  head  like  serpents. 

March  5th. — The  king,  and  Kakeocva,  the  governor  of  the 
island,  called  on  us  before  breakfast  this  morning,  and  partici- 
pated in  our  family  worship.  After  the  usual  prayer  in  English, 
by  Mr.  Gulick,Kakeoeva  supplicated  in  his  own  language,  in  a  tone 
peculiarly  solemn  and  impressive,  which  concluded  the  service. 
This  chief  is,  I  believe,  a  sincerely  good  and  pious  man,  and  his 
piety  consists  not  in  profession  alone,  but  is  exhibited  in  nume- 
rous acts  of  unassuming  benevolence  to  his  oppressed  people,  and 
in  uniform  and  well  directed  efforts  for  meliorating  their  condi- 
tion. He  enforces  all  the  tabus,  which  have  for  their  object  the 
suppression  of  vice  and  immorality,  and  while  his  people  fear  to 
disobey  his  injunctions  in  the  smallest  particular,  they  love  and 
venerate  him  as  their  father  and  friend. 

The  principal  object  of  Xhe  king  in  calling  upon  us,  was  to 

request,  (which  he  did  with  great  apparent  diffidence,)  the  loan 

of  his  house  for  a  few  days,  as  he  wished  to  move  his  residence 

to  a  point  nearer  the  sea,  in  order  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  the 

white  sails  of  the  Avon,  the  arrival  of  which  he  is  expecting  with 

great  anxiety.  His  impatience  to  return  to  Oahu  is  said,  sometimes, 

to  exceed  all  reasonable  bounds ;  he  works  himself  into  a  perfect 

27 


i 


310 


NAKRATIVR   OF    A   JOVRNKY 


Airy ;  rnncios  that  every  thing  is  going  Wrong  at  home,  and  that 
his  people  aro  in  mourning  for  his  protracted  ubstmcc;  but 
although  he  is  a  king,  the  winds  of  heaven  will  not  obey  him, 
and,  with  the  meanest  follower  in  his  train,  ho  must  wait  thu 
appointed  time. 

We,  of  course,  relinquished  the  house  cheerfully,  nnd,  with 
the  assistance  of  our  native  servants,  trnnsferreJ  ull  our  commo- 
dities to  the  mansion  of  the  good  missionary. 

In  the  aflcrnoon,  the  natives  from  ull  parts  of  the  island  bognn 
to  flock  to  the  king's  tompornry  residence.  The  petty  chiefs, 
and  head  men  of  the  viltngcs,  were  mounted  upon  all  sorts  of 
horses,  from  the  high-headed  and  high-mettled  Cnliforninn  steed, 
to  the  shaggy  and  diminutive  poncy  raised  on  their  native  hills  ; 
men  women  and  children  were  running  on  foot,  laden  with  pigs, 
calabashes  of  poc,  and  every  production  of  the  soil ;  and  though 
last,  certainly  not  least,  in  the  evening  there  came  the  troops  of 
of  the  island,  with  fife  and  drum,  and  "  tinkling  cymbal,"  to 
form  a  body  guard  for  his  majesty,  the  king.  Little  houses  were 
put  up  all  around  the  vicinity,  and  thotched  m  an  incredibly 
short  space  of  time,  and  when  Mr.  N.  and  myself  visited  the 
royal  mansion,  aAer  nightfall,  we  found  the  whole  neighborhood 
metamorphosed ;  a  beautiful  little  village  had  sprung  up  as  by 
magic,  and  the  retired  studio  of  the  naturalists  had  been  trans- 
formed into  a  royal  banquet  hall.  His  majesty  soon  recognised 
us  in  the  crowd,  and  taking  us  each  by  the  hand,  led  us  into  the 
house,  and  introduced  us  to  the  queen,  Kalama,  who  received  us  in 
a  dignified  and  very  pleasant  manner,  and  made  room  for  us 
near  her  at  the  supper,  which  the  attendants  were  spreading 
upon  the  ground.  This  consisted  of  a  variety  of  meats  lu  aued, 
fish,  potatoes  and  tare,  and  before  each  guest  was  placed  a  little 
calabash  of  poc.  As  I  have  before  stated,  this  last  article  is  an 
indispensable  requisite  in  the  economy  of  every  meal ;  and  even 
the  refined  Kauikeaouli,  who  has  abolished  in  his  own  person  so 


ACRom  fnn  rockt  moi^ttains,  rT(  f/fl 

many  of  iho  riido  customs  of  his  forefathers,  must  sip  a  little  poo 
to  conchido  his  supper.  I  rcmarkeiJ,  however,  that  on  this  occa* 
sion,  he  did  not  soil  his  fingers,  as  is  usual,  but  fed  himself  with 
a  spoon  as  delicately  as  possible.  The  queen,  on  the  contrary, 
and  all  the  chiefs  assembled  at  the  board,  plunged  their  hands 
into  the  paste,  and  sucked  their  fingers  oflor  tho  approved 
fiishion.  '*  ,  > 

When  tho  supper  was  concluded,  tho  peopio  were  all  assembled 
under  a  ranai,  or  shed,  which  had  l)cen  constructed  for  the 
occasion,  and  prayer  was  made  in  a  loud  and  solemn  tone,  by 
John  li,  tho  king's  chaplain.  At  its  conclusion,  tho  peopio 
scattered  themselves  about  as  before  ;  some  were  collected  in 
little  groups  on  tho  ground,  smoking  their  short  pipes,  and  re« 
galing  themselves  with  sea-urchins  and  succulent  cuttle-fish, 
while  the  stcntor  voices  of  tho  royal  guard  pealed  out  an  "  all's 
well"  from  their  station  near  the  palace  of  tho  monarch. 

This  royal  guard,  which  wo  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  next 
morning,  would  not  do  discredit  to  a  militia  gathering  in  yan* 
keo  land.  Like  our  own  redoubtable  troops,  the  men  were  of  all 
sizes,  in  every  variety  of  costume,  and  with  all  sorts  of  weapons; 
muskets  without  bayonets  or  locks,  and  no  muskets  at  all,  broom- 
sticks, and  tin  pans,  swords,  pistols,  and  taro  tops.  They  were 
arranged  every  morning  in  line  before  the  door  of  the  palace, 
and  laboriously  drilled  in  the  manual  exercise,  by  James  Young,  a 
half-caste  who  has  been  in  America.  Poor  fellows!  they  had 
hard  duty  to  perform,  and  were  no  doubt  longing  for  the  time 
when  his  majesty  should  'depart,  that  they  might  dxchange  the 
arduous  and  uncongenial  duties  of  the  camp,  for  the  toil  of  their 
simple  husbandry. 

About  a  week  after,  as  I  was  strolling  near  the  palace,  which, 
being  on  a  hill,  commanded  a  fine  view  of  the  ocean,  the  cry  of 
"  sail,  O !"  was  uttered  in  a  joyful  tone,  by  a  bevy  of  urchins,  who 


ittttrntmrnm^^m 


212 


NABRATIVB   OF   A   JOURNEY 


were  on  the  look  out,  and  was  echoed  all  round  the  neighbor- 
hood. The  king,  who  had  of  late  become  unusually  dull  and 
spiritless,  seemed  suddenly  to  have  acquired  new  life.  He  was 
seen  rushing  out  of  the  house,  like  one  distraught,  and  jumping 
and  capering  all  about  in  a  perfect  agony  of  joy.  Seeing  me 
near  him,  he  grasped  my  hand  in  the  most  cordial  manner,  while 
his  eyes  filled  with  tears :  "  We  shall  go  back  to  Oahu,  hauri, 
my  people  want  me  again  ;  the  wind  has  changed,  and  this  ship 
is  sent  to  take  me  away." 

I  participated  in  the  anxiety  of  the  king  to  return ;  for,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  ennui  which  is  always  the  accompaniment  of  a 
forced  detention,  even  in  pleasant  places,  I  feared  that  our  brig 
would  leave  the  islands  for  the  Columbia  without  us,  and  we 
should  thus  lose  the  opportunity  of  hailing  the  opening  of  spring, 
in  our  western  world,  the  season  which,  of  all  others,  is  the  most 
interesting  to  us. 

Next  morning  a  messenger  came  to  the  king  from  Waimea,  a 
port  about  fourteen  miles  distant,  with  information  that  the 
schooner  which  we  had  seen,  had  put  in  there,  and  only  waited 
the  embarkation  of  his  majesty  to  steer  direct  for  Oahu.  No 
time  was  lost  in  taking  advantage  of  this  opportunity;  and  at 
noon,  the  spot,  which  the  day  before  had  swarmed  with  hundreds 
of  dingy  natives,  was  silent  and  untenanted. 

On  the  day  following,  learning  that  the  schooner  had  not  sail- 
ed, and  fearing  that  the  Avon  would  not  arrive  early  enough,  I  wrote 
a  letter  to  the  king,  requesting  a  passage  for  Mr.  N.  and  myself, 
with  him.  To  this, — which  I  sent  by  a  runner, — the  following 
laconic  reply  was  received.  It  was  directed  "To  the  missionary, 
Mr.  Gulick,"  and  is  rendered  literally  from  the  native  language : 
"  Say  thou  to  the  foreigners,  we  have  sailed.  Let  them  look  out 
when  we  arrive  there.     Kino  Kavikeaovli." 

The  arrival  spoken  of,  alluded  to  the  vessel  passing  the  port 


AfiBOM  TUB   BOCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


213 


of  Koloft,  where  the  schooner  would  back  her  topsails  and  lie  to, 
that  we  might  board  hor  in  a  canoe. 

After  some  fonsidcratio:.,  and  consultation  with  Mr.  Gulick, 
we  concluded  that  wo  would  decline  the  king's  offer,  as  we  knew 
the  vessel  would  bo  crowded,  and  therefore  uncomfortable  ;  and 
as  the  wind  now  blew  steadily  in  its  accustomed  quarter,  we 
had  little  doubt  of  the  early  arrival  of  the  Avon.  In  the  after- 
noon wo  SRW  tho  schooner  of  the  king  come  booming  along  past 
us,  tho  dock,  and  ovon  tho  rigging,  alive  with  natives,  but  a  mes- 
sengor  whom  we  had  previously  sent  off,  saved  them  the  trouble 
of  bringing  to )  and  away  went  the  little  vessel  on  a  wind,  and 
soon  becamo  a  dim  and  ill-defined  speck  upon  the  far  hori- 
zon. 

llith<—X  sail  was  descried  at  daylight  this  morning,  bearing 
towards  our  island  i  and  while  we  were  at  breakfast,  two  fisher- 
men called,  to  toll  us  that  it  was  the  Avon  come  at  last.  She 
was  standing  towards  the  harbor  of  Koloa,  with  a  fair  wind,  and 
when  Mr.  N.  and  myself  arrived  at  the  beach,  she  was  hauling  in 
under  the  land.  Tho  captain  and  Mr.  Smith,  a  residen'  of  Ho- 
noruru,  come  en  shore  to  meet  us.  They  informed  us  that  the 
king  arrived  at  Oahu  last  evening,  after  an  unusually  boisterous 
and  uncoiitftirtablo  passage,  and  that  his  majesty  was  almost  be- 
Bido  himself  with  jt/y  to  receive  once  more  the  warm  and  affec- 
tionate greetings  of  his  people  at  home. 

The  brig  was  detained  here  a  day,  in  order  to  take  in  a  cargo 
of  live  stofik,  pigs,  goats,  &c.;  and  the  next  morning  we  bade 
adieu  to  the  kind  and  offectionate  family  of  the  missionary,  and 
wont  on  beard.  In  tho  afternoon  our  anchor  was  weighed,  and 
wo  were  sootl  ploughing  the  wide  ocean,  while  the  rugged,  iron- 
bound  coast  of  Kautti  rapidly  receded  from  our  view.  We  had 
on  board  several  distinguished  natives,  as  passengers,  the  princi- 
pal of  whom  was  Kckcocva,  the  governor,  and  at  each  meal 
which  we  took  on  hoard,  the  old  gentleman  asked  an  audible 


II 


314 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOVRNEV 


blessing  on  the  viands,  and  regularly  returned  thanks  at  its  con- 
cluMion. 

After  tt  pleasant  passage  of  two  days  we  arrived  at  Oahu,  and 
were  warmly  greeted  by  our  friends,  who  sympathized  with  us, 
and  thought  that  our  long  tarriance  must  have  been  peculiarly 
irksome.  They  knew  but  little  of  the  resources  of  the  natural- 
ist i  they  knew  not  that  the  wild  forest,  the  deep  glen,  and  the 
roggcd  mountain-top  possess  charms  for  him  which  he  would  not 
exchongo  for  gilded  palaces  ;  and  that  to  acquaint  himself  with 
nature,  ho  gladly  escapes  from  the  restraints  of  civilization,  and 
buries  himself  from  the  world  which  cannot  appreciate  his  en- 
joyment, >■''■■ 

Sid.— I  joined  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  this  morning, 
in  an  excursion  to  Pearl  river,  on  the  west  side  of  the  island. 
Wo  embarked  in  several  small  schooners  and  barges,  and  had 
a  delightlbt  trip  of  two  hours.  The  king,  who  was  with  us,  with 
ft  number  of  his  favorites,  John  Young,  Kanaina,  Halileo,  &c., 
procured  for  our  accommodation  several  native  houses,  in  which 
we  slung  our  cots  and  hammocks,  and  slept  at  night.  We  took 
our  meals  under  a  large  shaded  ranai,  and  the  amusements  of 
the  party  were  riding,  shooting,  and  a  variety  of  sylvan  games, 
which  rendered  our  pic-nic  of  three  days  a  constant  scene  of 
plensnnt  festivity. 

The  night  before  we  left,  the  gentlemen  of  the  party  were  in 
vited  by  tho  king  to  witness  the  curious  exhibition  called  the 
•*  calabash  dunce."  We  entered  a  large  house,  crowded  with  na- 
tives, with  tho  exception  of  a  wide  space  in  the  middle,  which 
Jlfld  l)Con  reserved  for  the  performers.  These  were  men  and  wo- 
men to  the  number  of  ten  or  twelve,  in  a  state  of  almost  perfect 
nudity,  having  no  covering,  except  the  small  maro  of  tapa 
Ixiund  around  the  loins.  Each  was  furnished  with  a  very  large 
gourd,  having  the  neck  attached,  and  from  the  under  surface 
tlio  cuutonts  had  been  removed  through  a  small  aperture.    The 


ACROSS    TUE    ROCKV    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


9ld 


performers  kneeled  upon  the  ground,  and  each  grasped  his  gourd 
by  the  neck  and  lifted  it,  when  one  of  the  number  commenced  a 
strange  kind  of  howling  song,  lifting  his  calabash  with  one  hand 
and  beating  it  with  the  other  so  as  to  keep  accurate  time  to  his 
music.  This  song  was  soon  taken  up  by  the  others,  until  the 
whole  company  joined,  and  every  one  thumped  his  calabash  most 
musically.  I  was  astonished  at  the  exceeding  nicety  with  which 
this  was  done.  No  baud  of  civilized  drummers  could  i:ave  kept 
time  more  perfectly,  nor  flourished  their  sticks  with  more  grace, 
than  did  these  unsophisticated  people  their  inartificial  instruments. 
During  the  whole  time  of  the  singing,  the  bodies  of  the  perform- 
ers were  not  idle  ;  every  muscle  seemed  to  have  something  to  do ; 
and  was  incessantly  brought  into  action  by  the  strange  motions, 
twistings  and  contortions  of  the  frame,  which  were  also  as  eva- 
nescent as  the  sound  of  their  voices.  This  singular  exhibition  pos- 
sessed interest  for  me,  as  being  one  of  the  idolatrous  games, 
which  in  former  years  constituted  a  portion  of  their  religious  ex- 
ercises. The  calabash  dance  is  now  almost  exploded,  the  natives 
generally  not  understanding  the  manipulations,  and  like  other 
relics  of  heathenism  it  is  of  course  discouraged  by  the  mission- 
aries, and  will  probably  soon  be  unknown  amongst  them. 

On  the  26th  of  March  we  embarked  on  board  the  brig  May 
Dacre,  upon  our  return  to  the  Columbia.  As  we  sailed  out  of 
the  harbor,  and  the  lovely  shore  of  the  island  became  more  and 
more  indistinct,  I  felt  sad  and  melancholy  in  the  prospect  of 
parting,  perhaps  for  ever,  from  the  excellent  friends  who  had 
treated  me  with  such  uniform  kindness  and  hospitality. 

We  have  had  an  accession  to  our  crew  of  thirty  Sandwich 
Islanders,  who  are  to  be  engaged  in  the  salmon  fishery  on  the 
Columbia,  and  six  of  these  have  been  allowed  the  unusual  privi- 
lege  of  taking  their  wives  with  them.  Some  six  or  eight  natives, 
of  both  sexes,  friends  and  relatives  of  the  crew,  came  on  board 
when  we  weighed  anchor,  and  their  parting  words  were  prolonged 


I 


216 


MABRATIVE   OF   A   JOVKNEV 


until  the  brig  cleared  the  reef,  and  her  sails  had  filled  with  the 
fresh  trade  wind.  They  thought  it  then  time  to  withdraw,  and 
putting  their  noses  together  after  their  fashion,  they  bade  their 
friends  an  afTectionate  farewell,  and  without  hesitation  dashed 
into  the  sea,  and  made  directly  for  shore.  I  thought  of  blue 
sharks,  tiger  sharks,  and  shovel-noses,  and  would  not  have  run 
such  a  risk  for  all  the  wealth  of  all  the  islands. 

April  6<A.— Yesterday  we  had  an  inkling  of  a  storm.  Some 
rain  fell  in  the  morning  early;  and  at  noon,  while  sitting  in  the 
cabin,  I  was  startled  by  hearing  a  flapping,  as  if  all  the  sails  in 
the  ship  were  being  torn  to  pieces,  and  a  roaring  not  unlike  the 
escape  of  steam  from  the  boiler  of  a  boat.  Upon  ascending  to 
the  deck,  I  observed  the  whole  ocean  covered  with  glittering 
white  foam,  the  surges  boiling,  and  dashing,  and  breaking  over 
our  vessel  as  she  labored  heavily  amongst  them.  The  sails 
were  flapping  about  most  unmanageably.  The  studding-sails, — 
all  of  which  had  been  set  before  the  storm, — were  immediately 
taken  in,  and  hands  were  sent  aloll  to  furl  the  remaining  can- 
vass, until  in  a  very  short  time  we  were  scudding  under  bare 
poles,  and  defying  the  utmost  fury  of  the  elements.  In  about 
half  an  hour,  the  storm  abated,  and,  soon  after,  entirely  ceased ; 
the  wind  became  steady  and  fresh ;  the  white  folds  of  our  can- 
vass were  again  let  loose,  and  away  we  went  before  a  "  smashing 
breeze"  at  the  rate  of  ten  knots  an  hour. 

12th. — The  mate  has  several  times  spoken  of  having  seen 
large  flocks  of  a  small  species  of  land  bird  sailing  around  the  ves- 
sel. As  it  is  scarcely  possible  they  could  have  emigrated  from 
the  distant  continent.  Captain  L.  supposes  that  they  are  residents 
of  a  small  uninhabited  island,  somewhere  in  these  latitudes,  which 
has  long  been  supposed  to  exist,  but  has  never  been  found.  He 
who  may  hereafter  be  so  fortunate  as  to  discover  this  land,  will 
probably  be  rendered  a  rich  man  for  the  remainder  of  his  days, 
for  it  doubtless  abounds  in  seal,  which  never  having  been  inter- 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  KTC. 


sn 


rupted,  will  be  easily  taken.     I  have  not  seen  the  birds  spoken 
of,  but  suppose  them  to  be  some  of  the  small  grallce. 

On  the  15th,  the  wind,  which  had  for  several  days  been  light, 
began  steadily  to  increase,  until  we  were  running  ten  knots  by  the 
log.  In  the  afternoon,  the  atmosphere  became  thick  and  hazy, 
indicating  our  approach  to  the  shores  of  the  continent.  In  a 
short  time,  a  number  of  the  small  Auks, — of  which  we  saw  a 
few  immediately  after  leaving  the  Columbia, — were  observed 
sporting  in  the  waves,  close  under  our  bows  ;  then  several  gulls 
of  the  species  common  on  the  river,  and  soon  after  large  flocks  ' 
of  geese  and  canvass-back  ducks. 

The  sea  gradually  lost  its  legitimate  deep  blue  color,  and  as- 
sumed a  dirty,  green  appearance,  indicating  soundings.  Upon 
heaving  the  lead  here,  we  got  only  eleven  fathoms,  and  found  that 
we  had  approached  nearer  than  was  prudent,  having  been  misled 
by  the  haze.  Wore  ship  immediately,  and  soon  saw  land,  bear- 
ing east,  which  we  ascertained  to  be  south  of  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment. Stood  off  during  the  night,  and  the  next  morning  at 
4  o'clock,  the  wind  favoring  us,  we  bore  up  for  the  cape,  and  at 
7  crossed  the  dangerous  bar  safely,  and  ran  direct  for  the  river. 


11 


ys, 

ter- 


se 


218 


NARKATIVE    OP   A   JOURNEY 


CHAPTER   XIII. 


Postage  vp  the  Columbia— Birda— A  trip  to  the  WaHammet—JMelhodlHt  ml»- 

aionariea their  prospects — Fort    William— Band-tail    pigeons— Urftchnl 

condition  of  the  Indians  at  the  falls — A  Kallapooyah  village— Indian 
cemetery— Superstitions — Treatment  qf  diseases — Method  of  steaming— 
"  Making  medicine^' — Indian  sorcerers — Jin  interrvption  of  festivities— 
Death  of  Thornhurg—An  inquest— Verdict  of  the  Jury — Inordinate  appetite 
for  ardent  spirits— Misfortunes  of  the  American  Company— Eight  men 
drowned— Murder  of  two  trappers  by  the  Banneck  Indians — Arrival  of 
Captain  Thing — His  meeting  and  skirmish  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians- 
Massacre — A  narrow  escape. 

On  the  16th,  wc  anchored  abreast  of  Oak  point.  Our  decks 
were  almost  immediately  crowded  with  Indians  to  welcome  uu, 
and  among  them  we  recognised  many  faces  with  which  wo  wire 
familiar.  Chinamus,  the  Chinook  chief,  was  the  principal  of 
these,  who,  with  his  wife,  Aillapust,  or  Sally,  as  she  is  called  at 
the  fort,  paid  us  an  early  visit,  and  brought  us  red  deer  and 
sturgeon  to  regale  upon  aflcr  our  voyage. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  we  ran  up  to  Warrior's 
point,  the  brig's  old  mooring  ground.  The  people  hero  had  been 
anxious  to  see  us ;  extensive  preparations  had  been  made  to  pro- 
secute the  salmon  fishery,  and  the  coopers  have  been  engaged  tlio 
whole  winter  in  making  barrels  to  accommodate  them.  Mr. 
Walker,  the  missionaries'  quondam  associate,  was  in  charge  of 
the  post,  and  he  informed  us  that  Captain  Wyeth  had  returned 
only  a  few  weeks  since  from  the  upper  country,  where  he  h.  '- 
been  spending  the  winter,  engaged  in  the  arduous  business  of 


ACR08I  Tnn  HonRv  MmrNTAirrM,  irrc. 


219 


of 


trapping,  in  tho  prosecution  of  which  ho  had  endured  great  and 
various  hardships. 

May  I2th. — Tho  rainy  soanon  ii*  not  yet  over  ;  wo  have  had 
almost  constant  showers  sinco  wo  arrived,  hut  now  the  weather 
appears  settled.  Birds  uro  nutmroun,  particularly  the  warblers, 
(Stfloia.)  Many  of  those  are  iiii({rntofy,  remaining  but  a  few 
weeks :  others  breed  here,  ami  roNidn  during  tho  greater  part  of 
the  summer.     I  have  already  procured  novoral  now  species. 

20th. — Mr.  Wyeth,  cam-)  down  from  Wallu-walla  yesterday, 
and  this  morning  I  embarked  with  him  in  n  Inrgo  canoe,  manned 
by  Kanakas,  for  a  trip  to  tho  Wallummet  falls  in  order  to  procure 
salmon.  We  visited  fort  Williiuri,  (Wyeth's  now  settlement  upon 
Wappatoo  island,)  which  is  about  Hllncn  miles  from  the  lower 
mouth  of  the  Wallammot.  Wo  foimd  hero  tho  missionaries, 
Messrs.  Lee  and  Edwards,  who  nrrivod  to-day  from  their  station, 
sixty  miles  above.  Tlify  give  fluttoring  accounts  of  their  pros- 
pects here ;  they  are  surroundnd  by  n,  considerable  number  of 
Indians  who  arc  friendly  to  tho  introduction  of  civilization  and 
religious  light,  and  who  treat  thoni  with  tho  greatest  hospitality 
and  kindness.  They  have  built  HOVftral  comfortable  log  houses, 
and  the  soil  in  their  vicinity  thoy  roprrtrtcnt  an  unusually  rich  and 
productive.  They  have,  I  think,  fi  yootJ  prospect  of  being  sorvice- 
able  to  this  miserable  and  dogradud  people  5  and  if  thoy  commence 
their  operations  judiciously,  and  pursue  a  toady,  unwavering 
course,  the  Indians  in  this  section  of  <ioimtry  may  yet  be  redeem- 
ed from  tho  thraldom  of  vice,  suporwfition,  and  indolence,  to  which 
they  have  so  long  submitted,  and  abovn  which  their  energies  have 
not  enabled  them  to  rise.    . 

The  spot  chosen  by  Captain  W.  for  him  fort  is  on  a  high  piece 
of  land,  which  will  probably  not  Ik)  ovcrFlown  by  the  periodical 
freshets,  and  the  soil  is  tho  rich  blfick  lontn  so  plentifully  dis- 
tributed through  this  section  of  couiilry.  'J'hn  men  now  live  in 
tents  and  temporary  huts,  but  Hcvoriil  lo((  linuMfH  are  conslrucfing 


220 


NARRATIVE    OF   A    JOVRNRY 


which,  when  finished,  will  vie  in  durability  and  comfort  with 
Vancouver  itself. 

21s/. — The  largo  band-tail  pigeon  (Colombafasciata)  is  very- 
abundant  near  the  river,  found  in  flocks  of  from  fifty  to  sixty,  and 
perching  upon  the  dead  trees  along  the  margin  of  the  stream. 
They  are  feeding  upon  tho  buds  of  the  balsam  poplar ;  are  very 
fat,  and  excellent  eating.  In  the  course  of  the  morning,  and 
without  leaving  the  canoe,  I  killed  enough  to  supply  our  people 
with  provision  for  two  days. 

2ith. — We  visited  the  falls  to-day,  and  while  Captain  W.  was 
inspecting  the  vicinity  to  decide  upon  the  practicability  of  drawing 
his  seine  here,  I  strolled  into  the  Indian  lodges  on  the  bank  of  the 
river.  The  poor  creatures  were  all  living  miserably,  and  some 
appeared  to  be  suffering  absolute  want.  Those  who  were  the 
best  supplied,  had  nothing  more  than  the  fragments  of  a  few 
sturgeons  and  lamprey  eels,  kamas  bread,  &c.  To  the  roofs  of 
the  lodges  were  hung  a  number  of  crooked  bladders,  filled  with 
rancid  seal  oil,  used  as  a  sort  of  condiment  with  tho  dry  and 
unsavory  sturgeon. 

On  the  Klakamas  river,  about  a  mile  below,  we  found  a  few 
lodges  belonging  to  Indians  of  the  Kalapooyah  tribe.  We  ad- 
dressed them  in  Chinook,  (the  language  spoken  by  all  those  in- 
habiting the  Columbia  below  the  cascades,)  but  they  evidently 
did  not  comprehend  a  word,  answering  in  a  peculiarly  harsh 
and  gutteral  language,  with  which  we  were  entirely  unacquainted. 
However,  we  easily  made  them  understand  by  signs  that  we 
wanted  salmon,  and  being  assured  in  the  same  significant  man- 
ner that  they  had  none  to  sell,  we  decamped  as  soon  as  possible, 
to  escape  the  fleas  and  other  vermin  with  which  the  interior  of 
their  wretched  habitations  were  plentifully  supplied.  We  saw 
hero  a  large  Indian  cemetery.  The  bodies  had  been  buried  un- 
der the  ground,  and  each  tomb  had  a  board  at  its  head,  upon 
which  was  rudely  painted   some  strange,  uncouth  fisfure.     The 


.X. 


•s 


ACROSS   TUB   BOCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


221 


pans,  kettles,  clothing,  &c.,  of  the  deceased,  were  all  suspended 
upon  sticks,  driven  into  the  ground  near  the  head  board. 

June  Qth. — The  Indians  frequently  bring  us  salmon,  and  we 
observe  that,  invariably,  before  they  part  with  them,  they  are 
careful  to  remove  the  hearts.     This  superstition,  is  religiously 
adhered  to  by  all  the  Chinook  tribe.      Before  the  fish  is  split  and 
prepared  for  eating,  a  small  hole  is  made  in  the  breast,  tlin  heart 
taken  out,  roasted,  and  eaten  in  silence,  and  withgreat  gravity.  This 
practice  is  continued  only  during  the  first  month  in  which  tho 
salmon  make  their  appearance,  and  is  intended  as  a  kind  of  pro. 
pitiation  to  the  particular  deity  or  spirit  who  presides  over  tho 
finny  tribes.     Superstition  in  all  its  absurd  and  most  revolting 
aspects  is  rife  among  this  people.     They  believe  in  "  black  spi- 
rits, and  white,  blue  spirits,  and  grey,"  and  to  each  grizzly 
monster  some  peculiar  virtue    or  ghastly  terror  is  attributed. 
When  a  chief  goes  on  a  hunting  or  fishing  excursion,  he  puts  him- 
self under  the  care  of  one  these  good  spirits,  and  if  his  expedition  is 
unsuccessful,  he  affirms  that  the  antagonist  evil  principle  has 
gained  the  victory ;  but  this  belief  does  not  prevent  his  making 
another,  and  another  attempt,  in  the  hope,  each  time,  that  his 
guardian  genius  will  have  the  ascendency. 

In  their  treatment  of  diseases,  they  employ  but  few  remedies, 
and  these  are  generally  simple  and  inefficacious.  Wounds  are 
treated  with  an  application  of  green  leaves,  and  bound  with  strips 
of  pine  bark,  and  in  some  febrile  cases  a  sweat  is  administered. 
This  is  effected  by  digging  a  hole  two  or  three  feet  deep  in  the 
ground,  and  placing  within  it  some  hemlock  or  spruce  boughs 
moistened  with  water ;  hot  stones  are  then  thrown  in,  and  a 
frame  work  of  twigs  is  -erected  over  the  opening,  and  covered 
closely  with  blankets  to  prevent  tho  escape  of  the  steam.  Under 
this  contrivance,  the  patient   is   placed ;   and  after    remaining 


222 


NARRATIVR    OF   A   JOURNEY 


nncon  or  twenty  minutes,  lio  ia  removed,  and  plunged  into  cold 
water.  •• 

Their  mode  of  " making  medicine"  to  use  their  own  term,  is, 
however,  very  difTercnt  from  this.  The  sick  man  is  laid  upon 
a  bed  of  mats  and  blaniccts,  elevated  from  )he  ground,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  raised  frame  worit  of  hewn  boards.  Ujwn  this 
frame  two  "medicine  men"  (sorcerers)  place  themselves,  and 
commence  chaunting,  in  a  low  voice,  a  kind  of  long  drawn, 
sighing  song.  Each  holds  a  stout  stick,  of  about  four  feet 
long,  in  his  hand,  with  which  he  beats  upon  the  frame  work,  and 
keeps  accurate  time  with  the  music.  After  a  few  minutes,  the 
song  begins  to  increase  in  loudness  and  quickness,  (a  corres- 
ponding force  and  celerity  being  given  to  the  stick,)  until  in  a 
short  time  the  noise  becomes  almost  deafening,  and  may  well 
serve,  in  many  instances,  to  accelerate  the  exit  of  him  whom  it  is 
their  intention  to  benefit. 

During  the  administration  of  the  medicine,  the  rehxHons  and 
friends  of  the  patient  are  often  employed  in  their  usual  avoca- 
tions in  the  same  house  with  him,  and  by  his  bedside ;  the  wo- 
men making  mats,  moccasins,  baskets,  &;c.,  and  the  men  lolling 
around,  smoking  or  conversing  upon  general  subjects.  No 
appearance  of  sorrow  or  concern  is  manifested  for  the  brother, 
husband,  or  father,  expiring  beside  them,  and  but  for  the  presence 
and  ear-astounding  din  of  the  medicine  men,  you  would  not 
know  that  any  thing  unusual  bad  occurred  to  disturb  the  tran- 
quillity of  the  family  circle. 

These  medicine  men  are,  of  course,  all  impostors,  their  object 
being  simply  the  acquisition  of  property  ;  and  in  case  of  the  re- 
covery of  the  patient,  they  make  the  most  exorbitant  demands  of 
his  relations ;  but  when  the  sick  man  dies,  they  are  often  com- 
pelled to  fly,  in  order  to  escape  the  vengeance  of  the  survivors, 
who  generally  attribute  the  fatal  termination  to  the  evil  influence 
of  the  practitioner. 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


223 


July  \th. — This  morning  was  ushered  in  by  the  firing  of  can. 
non  on  board  our  brig,  and  we  had  made  preparations  for  spend- 
ing the  duy  in  festivity,  when,  at  about  9  o'clock,  a  letter  w(ih 
received  from  Mr.  VVallter,  who  has  charge  of  the  fort  on  Wap- 
patoo  island,  stating  that  the  tailor,  Thornburg,  had  been  killed 
this  morning  by  Hubbard,  the  gunsmith,  and  requesting  our  pre« 
sence  immediately,  to  investigate  the  case,  and  direct  him  how 
to  act. 

Our  boat  was  manned  without  loss  of  time,  and  Captain  L. 
and  myself  repaired  to  the  fort,  where  wc  found  every  thing  in 
confusion.  Poor  Thornburg,  whom  I  had  seen  but  two  days 
previously,  full  of  health  and  vigor,  was  now  a  lifeless  corpse;  and 
Hubbard,  who  was  more  to  be  pitied,  was  walking  up  and  down 
the  beach,  with  a  countenance  pale  and  haggard,  from  the  feel- 
ings at  war  within. 

We  held  an  inquest  over  the  body,  and  examined  all  the  men 
of  the  fort  severally,  for  the  purpose  of  eliciting  the  facts  of  the 
case,  and,  if  warranted  by  the  evidence,  to  exculpate  Hubbard 
from  blame  in  the  commission  of  the  act.  It  appeared  that, 
several  weeks  since,  a  dispute  arose  between  Hubbard  and  Thorn- 
burg, and  the  latter  menaced  the  life  of  the  former,  and  had  since 
been  frequently  heard  to  declare  that  he  would  carry  the  threat 
into  etfect  on  the  first  favorable  opportunity.  This  morning,  be- 
fore daylight,  he  entered  the  apartment  of  Hubbard,  armed  with 
a  loaded  gun,  and  a  large  knife,  and  after  making  the  most 
deliberate  preparations  for  an  instant  departure  from  the  room, 
as  soon  as  the  deed  should  be  committed,  cocked  his  gun,  and 
prepared  to  shoot  at  his  victim.  Hubbard,  who  was  awakened 
by  the  noise  of  Thornburg's  entrance,  and  was  therefore  on  the 
alert,  waited  quietly  until  this  crisis,  when  cocking  his  pistol, 
without  noise,  he  took  deliberate  aim  at  the  assassin,  and  fired. 
Thornburg  staggered  back,  his  gun  fell  from  his  grasp,  and  the  two 
combatants  struggled  hand  to  hand.     The  tailor,  being  wounded, 


-  # 


: 


224 


NARRATIVi:    or    A    JOIJKNKY 


was  easily  overcome,  mid  was  thrown  violently  out  of  the  house, 
when  he  tell  to  tlio  ground,  and  died  in  a  few  n)inute8.  Upon  ex> 
aniining  the  body,  wu  Ibund  thut  the  two  balls  from  the  pistol  had 
entered  the  arm  btilow  the  shoulder,  nnd  escaping  the  bone,  had 
passed  into  the  cavity  of  the  chest.  The  verdict  of  the  jury  was 
"  justifiable  homicide,"  nnd  a  properly  attested  certificate,  con- 
taining a  full  account  of  the  proceedings,  was  given  to  Hubbard, 
as  well  for  his  satisfaction,  as  to  prevent  future  diflicuity,  if  the 
subject  should  ever  be  investigated  by  a  judicial  tribunal. 

This  Thornburg  was  an  unusually  bold  and  determined  man, 
fruitful  in  inventing  mischief,  as  he  was  reckless  and  daring  in  its 
prosecution.  His  appetite  for  ardent  spirits  was  of  the  most 
inordinate  kind.  During  the  journey  across  the  country,  I  con- 
stantly carried  a  large  two-guUon  bottle  of  whiskey,  in  which  I 
deposited  various  kinds  of  lizards  and  serpents  and  when  we 
arrived  at  the  Columbia  the  vessel  was  almost  full  of  these 
crawling  creatures.  I  left  the  bottle  on  board  the  brig  when  I 
paid  my  first  visit  to  the  Wallammet  falls,  and  on  my  return 
found  that  Thornburg  had  decanted  the  liquor  from  the  precious 
reptiles  which  I  had  destined  for  immortality,  and  he  and 
one  of  his  pot  companions  had  been  "  happy"  upon  it  for  a  whole 
day.  This  appeared  to  mc  almost  as  bad  as  the  •'  tapping  of  the 
Admiral,"  practised  with  such  success  by  the  British  seamen;  but 
unlike  their  commander,  I  did  not  discover  the  theft  until  too 
late  to  save  my  specimens,  which  were  in  consequence  all 
destroyed. 

llth. — Mr.  Nuttall,  who  has  just  returned  from  the  dalles, 
where  he  has  been  spending  some  weeks,  brings  distressing 
intelligence  from  above.  It  really  seems  thut  the  "  Columbia 
River  Fishing  and  Trading  Company"  is  devoted  to  destruction ; 
disasters  meet  them  at  every  turn,  and  as  yet  none  of  their 
schemes  have  prospered.  This  has  not  been  for  want  of  energy 
or  exertion.     Captain  W.  has  pursued  the  plans  which  seemed 


AOROM   TIIR    ROOKY    MOirNTAIN*,    VtC 


MB 


to  him  best  ndnptcd  for  insuring  succoss,  with  the  most  indefati* 
gnblo  pcrsovornnce  ni.il  indiiRtry,  and  has  endured  hardships 
without  mnrmurin<(,  which  would  have  proHtrntcd  many  a  more 
robust  mnn  ;  ncvortholnss,  ho  hns  not  succeeded  in  making  the 
business  of  fishing  nnd  trapping  productive,  and  as  wo  can- 
not divino  tho  coiino,  wu  must  attributu  it  to  tho  Providence 
that  rules  tho  destinies  of  men  and  controls  all  human  enter- 
prises. 

Two  evenings  since,  eight  Sandwich  Islanders,  a  whifo  man 
and  an  Indian  woman,  loll  tho  cascades  in  a  largo  canoo  laden 
with  salmon,  for  the  brig.  The  river  was  as  usual  rough  nnd 
tempestuous,  the  wind  blew  a  heavy  gale,  the  canoe  was  cap- 
sized, and  eight  out  of  the  ten  sank  to  rise  no  more.  The 
two  who  escaped,  islanders,  have  taken  refuge  among  tho  In- 
dians at  tho  village  below,  and  will  probably  join  us  in  a  few 
days. 

Intelligence  has  also  been  received  of  tho  murder  of  one  of 
Wyeth's  principal  trappers,  named  Abbot,  and  another  white 
man  who  accompanied  him,  by  the  Bannock  Indians.  The  two 
men  were  on  their  way  to  tho  Columbia  with  a  large  load  of 
beaver,  and  had  stopped  at  the  lodge  of  tho  Banneck  chief,  by 
whom  they  had  been  hospitably  entertained.  After  they  left,  the 
chief,  with  several  of  his  young  men,  concealed  themselves  in  a 
thicket,  near  which  the  unsuspicious  trappers  passed,  and  shot 
and  scalped  them  both. 

These  Indians  have  been  heretofore  harmless,  and  have  always 
appeared  to  wish  to  cultivate  the  friendship  of  the  white  people. 
The  only  reason  that  can  be  conceived  for  this  change  in  their 
sentiments,  is  that  some  of  their  number  muy  lately  have  received 
injury  from  the  white  traders,  and,  with  true  Indian  animosity, 
they  determined  to  wreak  their  vengeance  ur.(r.i  the  whole  race. 

Thus  it  is  always  unsafe  to  travel  among  Indians,  as  no  one 

89 


226 


NARRATIVE   OF   A    JOURNEY 


knows  at  what  moment  a  tribe  which  has  always  been  friendly, 
may  receive  ill  treatment  from  thoughtless,  or  evil-designing  men, 
and  the  innocent  suffer  for  the  deeds  of  the  guilty.  _.., 

August  19th. — This  morning,  Captain  Thing  (Wyeth's  part- 
ner) arrived  from  the  interior.     Poor  man  !  he  looksL  .  try  much 
worn  by  fatigue  and  hardships,  and  seven   years  older  than 
when  I  last  saw  him.     He  passed  through  the  Snake  country 
from  Fort  Hall,  without  knowing  of  the  hostile  disposition  of  the 
Baniiecks,  but,  luckily  for  him,  only  met  small  parties  of  them, 
who  feared  to  attack  his  camp.      He  remarked  symptoms  of 
distrust  and  coolness  in  their  manner,  for  which  he  was,  at  the 
time,  unable  to  account.     As  I  have  yet  been  only  an  hour  in 
his  company,  and  as  a  large  portion  of  this  time  was  consumed 
in  his  business  affairs,  I  have  not  been  able  to  obtain  a  very  par- 
ticular account  of  his  meeting  and  skirmish  with  the  Blackfeet 
last  spring,  a  rumor  of  which  we  heard  several  weeks  since. 
From  what  I  have  been  enabled  to  gather,  amid  the  hurry  and 
bustle  consequent  upon  his  arrival,  the  circumstances  appear  to 
be  briefly  these.     He  had  made  a  camp  on  Salmon  river,  and, 
as  usual,  piled  up  his  goods  in  front  of  it,  and  put  his  horses  in  a 
pen  erected  temporarily  for  the  purpose,  when,  at  about  day- 
break, one  of  his  sentries  heard  a  gun  discharged  near.   He  went 
immediately  to  Captain  T.'s  tent  to  inform  him  of  it,  and  at  that 
instant  a  yell  sounded  from  an  adjacent  thicket,  and  about  five 
hundred  Indians, — three  hundred  horse  and  two  hundred  foot, — 
rushed  out  into  the  open  space  in  front.     The  mounted  savages 
were  dashing  to  and  fro  across  the  line  of  the  camp,  discharging 
their  pieces  with  frightful  rapidity,  while  those  who  had  not 
horses,  crawled  around  to  take  them  in  the  rear. 

Notwithstanding  the  galling  fire  which  the  Indians  were  con- 
stantly pouring  into  them,  Captain  T.  succeeded  in  driving  his 
horses  into  the  thicket  behind,  and  securing  them  there,  placing 
over  them  a  guard  of  three  men  as  a  check  to  the  savages  who 


AtlMOSS    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


227 


worfl  ft|il»ro(iching  from  that  quarter.  He  then  threw  himself, 
with  thf)  romdindpr  of  his  little  baad,  behind  the  bales  of  goods, 
Bnd  petlirnod  tho  firo  of  the  enemy.  He  states  that  occa- 
sioimlly  )i(f  wftN  gratified  by  the  sight  of  an  Indian  tumbling 
from  hiM  Iiomr,  tind  at  such  times  a  dismal,  savage  yell  was 
uttorod  liy  tho  rcHt,  who  then  always  fell  back  a  little,  but  re- 
ttirnftd  liufflpdiatoly  to  tho  charge  with  more  than  their  former 
Ajry. 

At  IPHflilh  tho  Indians,  apparently  wearied  by  their  unsuccess- 
ful ftttempfs  to  dislodge  the  white  men,  changed  their  mode  of  at- 
tack, nuA  rodo  upon  the  slight  fortification,  rapidly  and  steadily. 
Although  thoy  lost  a  man  or  two  by  this  (for  them)  unu- 
simlly  buld  pfocccding,  yet  they  succeeded  in  driving  the  brave 
little  bnnd  ef  whites  to  the  cover  of  the  bushes.  They  then  took 
possjwiilion  of  tho  goods,  (fee,  which  had  been  used  as  a  defence, 
ond  retired  to  u  considerable  distance,  where  they  were  soon 
joined  by  tlioir  comrades  on  foot,  who  had  utterly  failed  in  their 
attempt  to  oljtttin  the  horses.  In  a  short  time,  a  man  was  seen 
advancing  from  the  main  body  of  Indians  towards  the  scene  of 
combat,  holding  tip  his  hand  as  a  sign  of  amity,  and  an  intima- 
tion of  tho  suspension  of  hostilities,  and  requested  a  "  talk"  with 
the  white  people.  Captain  T.,  with  difficulty  repressing  his  in- 
clination to  shoot  tho  savage  herald  down,  was  induced,  in  con- 
Nideration  of  tho  safety  of  his  party,  to  dispatch  an  interpreter 
towardi  him.  Tho  only  information  that  the  Blackfcet  wished 
to  communicate  was,  that  having  obtained  all  the  goods  of  the 
white  people,  they  were  now  willing  that  they  should  continue 
their  joMrnf-y  in  pence,  and  that  they  should  not  again  be  molest- 
ed. The  Indiana  then  departed,  and  the  white  men  struck  back 
on  their  trail,  towards  Fort  Hall.  Captain  Thing  lost  every  thing 
ho  hnd  with  him,  all  his  clothing,  papers,  journals,  &c.  But 
lie  shohld  prohiihly  bo  thankful  that  he  escaped  with  his  life,  for 


328 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


it  ia  known  to  be  very  ususual  for  these  hostile  Indians  to 
Kparo  the  lives  of  white  men,  when  in  their  power,  the  acquisi- 
tion of  property  being  generally  with  them  only  a  secondary 
consideration. 

Captain  T.  had  two  men  severely,  but  not  mortally,  wounded* 
Tho  Indians  had  seven  killed,  and  a  considerable  iiumber 
wounded. 

iOth. — Several  days  since  a  poor  man  came  here  in  a  mos* 
doplornblo  condition,  having  been  gashed,  stabbed  and  bruised  in 
a  manner  truly  frightful.  He  had  been  travelling  on  foot  con- 
stantly for  fifteen  days,  exposed  to  the  broiling  sun,  with  nothing 
to  cat  during  the  whole  of  this  time,  except  the  very  few  roots 
which  he  had  been  able  to  find.  He  was  immediately  put  in  the 
hospital  here,  and  furnished  with  every  thing  necessary  for  his 
comfort,  as  well  as  surgical  attendance.  He  states  that  he  left 
Monterey,  in  California,  in  the  spring,  in  company  with  seven 
men,  for  the  purpose  of  coming  to  the  Wallammet  to  join  Mr. 
Young,  an  American,  who  is  now  settled  in  that  country.  They 
met  with  no  accident  until  they  arrived  at  a  village  of  Potdmeos 
Indians,*  about  ten  days  journey  south  of  this.  Not  knowing 
tho  character  of  these  Indians,  they  were  not  on  their  guard, 
allowing  them  to  enter  their  camp,  and  finally  to  obtain  posses- 
sion of  their  weapons.  The  Indians  then  fell  upon  the  defence- 
less little  band  with  their  tomahawks  and  knives,  (having  no  fire 
arms  themselves,  and  not  knowing  the  use  of  those  they  had 
taken,)  and,  ere  the  white  men  had  recovered  from  the  panic 
which  tho  sudden  and  unexpected  attack  occasioned,  killed  four 
of  them.  The  remaining  four  fought  with  their  knives  as  long 
as  Ihoy  were  able,  but  were  finally  overpowe.  nnd  this  poor 
rgllow  left  upon  the  ground,  covered  with  woui.        ind  in  a  state 

*  Cnlli'd  by  tlic  inhabitants  of  tliis  country,  the  "  i-ascally  Indiana,''  from  their 
utillwtnly  pvil  (liapotition,  and  liostility  to  wliitu  people. 


ACROSS  THE   BOCKY   MOVNTAIMS,   ETC. 


229 


their 


of  insensibility.  How  long  he  remained  in  this  situation,  he  has 
no  means  of  ascertaining ;  but  upon  recovering,  the  place  was 
vacated  by  all  the  actors  in  the  bloody  scene,  except  his  three  dead 
companions,  who  were  lying  stark  and  stiff  where  they  fell.  By 
considerable  exertion,  he  was  enabled  to  drag  himself  into  a 
thicket  near,  for  the  purpose  of  concealment,  as  he  rightly  con- 
jectured that  their  captors  would  soon  return  to  secure  the 
trophies  of  their  treacherous  victory,  and  bury  the  corpses.  This 
happened  almost  immediately  after  ;  the  scalps  were  torn  from 
the  heads  of  the  slain,  and  the  mangled  bodies  removed  for  inter- 
ment. After  the  most  dreadful  and  excrutiating  sufferings,  as  we 
can  well  believe,  the  poor  man  arrived  here,  and  is  doing  well 
under  the  excellent  and  skilful  care  of  Doctor  Gairdncr.  I  ex- 
amined most  of  his  wounds  yesterday.  He  is  literally  covered 
with  them,  but  one  upon  the  lower  part  of  his  face  is  the  most 
frightful.  It  was  made  by  a  single  blow  of  a  tomahawk,  the 
point  of  which  entered  the  upper  lip,  just  below  the  nose,  cutting 
entirely  through  both  the  upper  and  lower  jaws  and  chin,  and 
passing  deep  into  the  side  of  the  neck,  narrowly  missing  the  large 
jugular  vein.  He  says  he  perfectly  recollects  receiving  this 
wound.  It  was  inflicted  by  a  powerful  savage,  who  at  the  same 
time  tripped  him  with  his  foot,  accelerating  his  fall.  He  also 
remembers  distinctly  feeling  the  Indian's  long  knife  pass  five 
sepaiate  times  into  hie  body ;  of  what  occurred  after  this  he 
knows  nothing.  This  is  certainly  by  far  the  most  horrible  looking 
wound  I  ever  saw,  rendered  so,  however,  by  injudicious  treatment 
and  entire  want  of  care  in  the  proper  apposition  of  the  sundered 
parts;  he  simply  bound-  it  up  as  well  as  ho  could  with  his 
handkerchief,  and  his  extreme  anguish  caused  him  to  forget 
the  necessity  of  accuracy  in  this  respect.  The  consequence 
is,  that  the  lower  part  of  his  face  is  dreadfully  contorted,  one 
side  being  cunsiderably  lower  than  the  other.     A  union  by  the 


230 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


first  intention  has  been  formed,  and  the  ill-arranged  parts  are 
uniting.  ;■  .,-.i;.;  .'m,  ,,,■,-        ■..')    -,    ,        ,,-■.,->"   -  .•.■;,:C:,  r^^: 

This  case  has  produced  considerable  excitement  in  our  little 
circle.  The  P«jtamcos  have  more  than  once  been  guilty  of  acts 
of  this  kind,  and  some  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  fort  have  proposed 
fitting  out  an  expedition  to  destroy  the  whole  nation,  but  this 
scheme  will  probably  not  be  carried  into  effect. 


ACROSS  THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


231 


CHAPTER   XIV. 


Indians  qf  the  Columbia — t/ieir  Tnelancholy  condition — Departure  of  Mr.  JVkN 
tall  and  Dr.  Gairdner — A  nevi  vocation — Arrival  of  the  Rev.  Samvel 
Parker — his  object — Departure  of  the  American  brig — Swans — Indian  mode 
of  tcUcing  them — A  large  wolf— An  Indian  mummy — A  night  adventure — 
A  discovert/,  and  restoration  of  stoleti  property — FraterTuil  tenderness  of  an 
Itidian — Indian  vengeance — Death  of  Waskima,  the  Indian  girl — "  Busy- 
body ^  the  little  chief— A  village  of  Kowalitsk  Indians— Ceremony  of 
"  making  medicine"— Exposure  of  an  impostor — Success  of  legitimate  medi' 
cines — Departure  from  Fort  Vancouver  for  a  visit  to  the  interior — Arrival 
qf  a  stranger— "  Cape  Horn"— Tilki,  the  Indian  chirf— Indian  villages- 
Arrival  at  Fort  Walla-walla — Sharp-tuiled  grouse—  Commencement  qf  a 
journey  to  the  Blue  mountains. 


The  Indians  of  the  Columbia  were  once  a  numerous  and  pow- 
erful people ;  the  shore  of  the  river,  for  scores  of  miles,  was 
lined  with  their  villages  ;  the  council  fire  was  frequently  lighted, 
the  pipe  passed  round,  and  the  destinies  of  the  nation  deliberated 
upon.  War  was  declared  against  neighboring  tribes  ;  the  deadly 
tomahawk  was  lifled,  and  not  buried  until  it  was  red  with  the 
blood  of  the  savage ;  the  bounding  deer  was  hunted,  killed,  and 
his  antlers  ornamented  the  wigwam  of  the  red  man ;  the  scalps 
of  his  enemies  hung  drying  in  the  smoke  of  his  lodge,  and  the 
Indian  was  happy.  Now,' alas !  where  is  he? — gone ; — gathered 
to  his  fathers  and  to  his  happy  hunting  grounds  ;  his  place  knows 
him  no  more.  The  spot  where  once  stood  the  thickly  peopled  vil- 
lage, the  smoke  curling  and  wreathing  above  the  closely  packed 
lodges,  the  lively  children  playing  in  the  front,  and  their  indolent 


I 


h 


232 


XARRATIVE  OF   A  JOURNEY 


parents  lounging  on  their  mats,  is  now  only  indicated  by  a  henp 
of  undistinguishable  ruins.  The  depopulation  here  has  been  truly 
fearful.  A  gentleman  told  me,  that  only  four  years  ago,  as  ho 
wandered  near  what  had  formerly  been  a  thickly  peopled 
village,  he  counted  no  less  than  sixteen  dead,  men  and  women, 
lying  unburied  and  festering  in  the  sun  in  front  of  their 
habitations.  Within  the  houses  all  were  sick ;  not  one  had 
escaped  the  contagion ;  upwards  of  a  hundred  individuals,  men, 
women,  and  children,  were  writhing  in  agony  on  the  floors  of 
the  houses,  with  no  one  to  render  them  any  assistance.  Some 
were  in  the  dying  struggle,  and  clenching  with  the  convul- 
sive grasp  of  death  their  disease-worn  companions,  shrieked  and 
howled  in  the  last  sharp  agony. 

Probably  there  does  not  now  exist  one,  where,  five  years  ago, 
there  were  a  hundred  Indians;  and  in  sailing  up  the  river,  roni 
the  cape  to  the  cascades,  the  only  evidence  of  the  existence)  of 
the  Indian,  is  an  occasional  misernble  wigwam,  with  a  few 
wretched,  half-starved  occupants.  In  some  other  places  they 
are  rather  more  numerous;  but  the  thoughtful  observer  cannot 
avoid  perceiving  that  in  a  very  few  years  the  race  must,  in  the 
nature  of  things  become  extinct;  and  the  time  is  probably  not 
far  distant,  when  the  little  trinkets  and  toys  of  this  people  will 
bo  picked  up  by  the  curious,  and  valued  as  mementoes  of  a  nation 
passed  away  for  ever  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  The  aspect  of 
things  is  very  melancholy.  It  seems  as  if  the  fiat  of  the  Creator 
had  gone  forth,  that  these  poor  denizens  of  the  forest  and  the 
stream  should  go  hence,  and  be  seen  of  men  no  more. 

In  former  years,  when  the  Indians  were  numerous,  long  after 
tho  establishment  of  this  fort,  it  was  not  safe  for  the  white  men 
attached  to  it  to  venture  beyond  the  protection  of  its  guns  with- 
out being  fully  aimed.  Such  was  the  jealousy  of  the  natives 
towards  them,  that  various  deep  laid  schemes  were  practised  to 
obtain  possession  of  the  post,  and  massacre  all  whom  it  had  har- 


!  iii;! 


ACItOU  TUB   KOtJKY   MUVNTA1N8,  UTC. 


233 


bored;  now,  however,  they  arn  an  Mubmisoivo  as  children.  Some 
have  even  entered  into  tijo  norvi<!(t  of  Iho  whites,  and  when  once 
the  natural  and  porHOVoring  iii(ioloti(!U  of  the  man  is  worn  off, 
he  will  work  well  and  muku  hiirmcif  useful. 

About  two  hundred  miloH  Hoiithward,  the  Indians  are  said  to 
be  in  a  much  more  floiiritihing  nondition,  and  their  hostility  to 
the  white  people  to  be  most  deadly.  They  iK-liovo  that  we  brought 
with  us  the  fatal  fever  which  has  ravaged  this  portion  of  the 
country,  and  the  conscquonca  in,  that  they  kill  without  mercy 
every  white  man  who  trusts  himdolf  amongst  them.  v. 

October  let. — Doctor  Gairdnor,  the  surgeon  of  Fort  Vancouver, 
took  passage  a  few  days  ngo  to  tho  Sftndwich  Islands,  in  one  of  the 
Company's  vessels.  Ho  has  boon  siiffdring  for  several  months, 
with  a  pulmonary  affection,  ond  in  anxious  to  escape  to  a  milder 
and  more  salubrious  climate.  In  hi>i  absence,  the  charge  of  the 
hospital  will  devolve  on  mo,  and  my  time  will  thus  be  employed 
through  the  coming  winter.  Thoro  oro  at  present  but  few  cases 
of  sickness,  mostly  ague  and  fever,  so  prevalent  at  this  season. 
My  companion,  Mr.  Nuttall,  was  also  n  passenger  in  the  same 
vessel.  From  the  islands,  ho  will  probably  visit  California,  and 
either  return  to  the  Columbia  by  the  next  ship,  and  take  the 
route  across  the  mountains,  or  double  Cnpc  Horn  to  reach  his 
home. 

16th. — Several  days  since,  tho  Uov.  Samuel  Parker,  of  Ithaca, 
N.  York,  arrived  at  tho  fort.  Ho  left  his  home  last  May,  travel- 
led to  the  rendezvous  on  tho  Colorado,  with  the  fur  company  of 
Mr.  Fontinelle,and  performed  the  nsmuinder  of  tho  journey  with 
the  Nez  Perct  or  Chmptiu  Indiunu.  His  object  is  to  examine 
the  country  in  respect  to  its  agricultural  and  other  facilities, 
with  a  view  to  the  establishment  of  missions  among  the  Indians. 
He  will  probably  return  to  the  Stnros  next  spring,  and  report  the 


284 


NARRATIVB   OF   A   JOVKNEY 


result  of  his  observations  to  the  board  of  commissioners,  by 
whose  advice  his  pioneer  journey  has  been  undertaken.*        . 

On  the  17th,  I  embarked  with  this  gentleman  in  a  canoe,  for  a 
visit  to  the  lower  part  of  the  river.  We  arrived  at  the  American 
brig  in  the  afternoon,  on  board  of  which  we  quartered  for  the 
night,  and  the  next  morning  early,  the  vessel  cast  off  from  the 
shore.  She  has  her  cargo  of  furs  and  salmon  on  board,  and  is 
bound  to  Boston,  via  the  Sandwich  and  Society  Islands.  Mr. 
Parker  took  passage  in  her  to  Fort  George,  and  in  the  afternoon 
I  returned  in  my  canoe  to  Vancouver.  ^ 

December  lat. — The  weather  is  now  unusually  fine.  Instead 
of  the  drenching  rains  which  generally  prevail  during  the  winter 
months,  it  has  been  for  some  weeks  clear  and  cool,  the  ther- 
mometer ranging  from  35°  to  45°. 

The  ducks  and  geese,  which  have  swarmed  throughout  the 
country  during  the  latter  part  of  the  autumn,  are  leaving  us,  and 
the  swans  are  arriving  in  great  numbers.  These  are  here,  as  in  all 
other  places,  very  shy ;  it  is  difficult  to  approach  them  without 
cover;  but  the  Indians  have  adopted  a  mode  of  killing  them 
which  is  very  successful ;  that  of  drifting  upon  the  flocks  at  night, 
in  a  canoe,  in  the  bow  of  which  a  large  fire  o£  pitch  pine  has 
been  kindled.  The  swans  are  dazzled,  and  apparently  stupified 
by  the  bright  light,  and  fall  easy  victims  to  the  craft  of  the 
sportsman. 

20tk. — Yesterday  one  of  the  Canadians  took  an  enormous  wolf 
in  a  beaver-trap.  It  is  probably  a  distinct  species  from  the  com- 
mon one,  (lupus,)  much  larger  and  stronger,  and  of  a  yellowish 
cinereous  color.  The  man  states  that  he  found  considerable  diffi- 
culty in  capturing  him,  even  after  the  trap  had  been  fastened  on 

•  Mr.  Parker  has  since  published  an  account  of  this  tour,  to  which  the  reader 
is  referred,  for  much  valuable  information,  relative  to  the  condition  of  the  Indians 
on  our  western  frontier. 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MODNTAINS,   KTC. 


2»5 


his  foot.  Unlike  the  lupus,  (which  is  cowardly  nnd  cringing 
when  made  prisoner,)  he  showed  fight,  and  seizing  the  polo  in 
his  teeth,  with  which  the  man  attempted  to  despatch  him,  with 
one  backward  jerk,  threw  his  assailant  to  the  ground,  and  darted 
at  him,  until  checked  by  the  trap  chain.  He  was  finally  shot, 
and  I  obtained  his  skin,  which  I  have  preserved. 

I  have  just  had  a  visit  from  an  old  and  intelligent  Indian  chief, 
who  lives  near.  It  is  now  almost  midnight,  but  for  the  last  hour 
I  have  heard  the  old  man  wandering  about  like  an  unquiet  spirit, 
in  the  neighborhood  of  my  little  mansion,  and  singing  snatches 
of  the  wild,  but  sweetly  musical  songs  of  his  tribe.  It  is  a  bitter 
night,  and  supposing  the  old  man  might  be  cold,  I  invited  him  to 
a  seat  by  my  comfortable  fire.  .<---.       i 

He  says,  "  eighty  snows  have  chilled  the  earth  since  Manu 
quon  was  born."  Maniquon  has  been  a  great  warrior ;  ho  has 
himself  taken  twenty  scalps  between  the  rising  and  setting  of  the 
sun.  Like  most  old  people,  he  is  garrulous,  and,  like  all  Indians, 
fond  of  boasting  of  his  v/arlike  deeds.  I  can  sit  for  hours  and 
hear  old  Maniquon  relate  the  particulars  of  his  numerous  cam- 
paigns,  his  ambushes,  and  his  "  scrimmages,"  as  old  Hawk-eye 
would  say.  When  he  once  gets  into  the  spirit  of  it,  he  springs 
upon  his  feet,  his  old,  sunken  eyes  sparkle  like  diamonds  set  in 
bronze,  and  he  whirls  his  shrunken  and  naked  arm  around  his 
head,  as  though  it  still  held  the  deadly  tomahawk.  But  in  the 
midst  of  his  excitement,  seeming  suddenly  to  recollect  his  fallen 
state,  he  sinks  into  his  chair. 

"  Maniquon  is  not  a  warrior  now — he  will  never  raise  his  axe 
again — his  young  men  have  deserted  his  lodge — his  sons  will  go 
down  to  their  graves,  and  the  squaws  will  not  sing  of  their  great 
deeds." 

I  have  several  times  heard  him  speak  the  substance  of  these 
words  in  his  own  language,  and  in  one  instance  he  concluded 
thus: 


|i!l 


230 


NARRATIVE   OF    A    JOVRNEY 


"And  who  made  my  people  what  they  are?"  This  question 
was  put  in  a  low  voice,  almost  r.  whisper,  and  was  accompanied 
by  a  look  so  savage  and  malignant,  that  I  almost  quailed  before 
the  imbecile  old  creature.  I,  however,  answered  quickly,  with- 
out giving  him  l^me  to  reply  to  hk  own  question. 

"  The  Great  Spirit,  Maniquon,"  pointing  with  my  finger  im- 
pressively upwards. 

"  Yes,  yes — it  was  the  Great  Spirit ;  it  was  not  the  white 
man/"  I  could  have  been  almosi  angry  withihe  old  Indian  for 
the  look  of  deadly  hostility  with  which  he  uttered  these  last 
words,  but  that  I  sympathized  with  his  wounded  pride,  and  pitied 
his  sorrows  too  much  to  harbor  any  other  feeling  than  commise- 
ration for  his  manifold  wrongs. 

February  3d,  1836. — During  a  visit  to  Fort  William,  last 
week,  I  saw,  as  I  wandered  through  the  forest,  about  three  miles 
from  the  house,  a  canoe,  deposited,  as  is  usual,  in  the  branches  of 
a  tree,  some  fourteen  feet  from  the  ground.  Knowing  that  it 
contained  the  body  of  an  Indian,  I  ascended  to  it  for  the  purpose 
of  abstracting  the  skull ;  but  upon  examination,  what  was  my 
surprise  to  find  a  perfect,  embalmed  body  of  a  young  female,  in 
a  state  '•f  preservation  equal  to  any  which  I  had  seen  from  the 
catacombs  of  Thebes.  I  determined  to  obtain  possession  of  it, 
but  as  this  was  not  the  proper  time  to  carry  it  away,  I  returned 
to  the  fort,  and  said  nothing  of  the  discovery  which  I  had  made. 

That  night,  at  the  witching  hour  of  twelve,  I  furnished  myself 
with  a  rope,  and  launched  a  small  canoe,  which  I  paddled  up 
against  the  current  to  a  point  opposite  the  mummy  tree.  Here  I 
ran  my  canoe  ashore,  and  removing  my  shoes  and  stockings, 
proceeded  to  the  tree,  which  was  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the 
river.  I  ascended,  and  making  the  rope  fast  around  the  body, 
lowered  it  gently  to  the  ground ;  then  arranging  the  fabric  which 
had  been  displaced,  as  neatly  as  the  darkness  ollowed,  I  de- 
scended, and  taking  the  body  upon  my  shoulders,  bore  it  to  my 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    M0VNTAIN9,  ETC. 


237 


in 


cnnofl,  ond  pushed  off  into  the  stream.  On  arriving  at  the  fort, 
I  deposited  my  prize  in  the  store  house,  and  sewed  around  it  a 
large  Indian  mat,  to  give  it  the  appcaronce  of-  a  bale  of  guns. 
Being  on  a  visit  to  the  fort,  with  Indians  whom  I  had  engaged 
to  paddle  my  canoe,  I  thought  it  unsafe  to  take  the  mummy  on 
board  when  I  returned  to  Vancouver  the  next  day,  but  loft 
directions  with  Mr.  Walker  to  stow  it  away  under  the  hatches 
of  a  little  schooner,  which  was  running  twice  a  week  between 
tlie  two  forts. 

On  the  arrival  of  this  vessel,  several  days  after,  I  received, 
instead  of  the  body,  a  note  from  Mr.  Walker,  stating  that  an 
Indian  had  called  at  the  fort,  and  demanded  the  corpse.  He 
was  the  brother  of  the  deceased,  and  hud  been  in  the  habit  of 
visiting  the  tomb  of  his  sister  every  year.  He  had  now  come 
for  that  purpose,  from  his  residence  near  the  "  turn-water" 
(cascades,)  ai,->I  his  keen  eye  had  detected  the  intrusion  of  a 
stranger  on  the  spot  hallowed  to  him  by  many  successive  piN 
grimages.  The  canoe  of  his  sister  was  tenantless,  and  he  knew 
the  spoiler  to  have  been  a  white  man,  by  the  tracks  upon  the 
beach,  v/hich  did  not  incline  inward  like  those  of  an  Indian. 

The  case  was  so  clearly  made  out,  that  Mr.  W.  could  not 
deny  the  fact  of  the  body  being  in  the  house,  and  it  was  accord- 
ingly delivered  to  him,  with  a  present  of  several  blankets,  to 
prevent  the  circumstance  from  operating  upon  his  mind  to  the 
prejudice  of  the  white  people.  The  poor  Indian  took  the  body  of 
liis  sister  upon  his  shoulders,  and  as  he  walked  away,  grief  got 
the  better  of  his  stoicism,  and  the  sound  of  his  weeping  was 
heard  long  after  he  had  entered  the  forest. 

25th. — Several  weeks  ago  the  only  son  of  Ke-ez-a-no,  the  prin- 
cipal chief  of  the  Chinooks,  died.  The  father  was  almost 
distracted  with  grief,  and  during  the  first  paroxysm  attempted  to 
take  the  life  of  the  boy's  mother,  supposing  that  she  had  exerted 
an  evil  influence  over  him  which  had  caused  his  death.     She 


238 


NARRATIVR   OF    A   JOUHNRV 


I 


li 

11 
! 


was  compelled  to  fly  in  conscqucnco,  nnd  put  horscU'  under  the 
protection  of  Dr.  McLoughlin,  who  found  means  to  send  her  to 
her  people  below.  Disappointed  in  this  scheme  of  vengeance, 
the  chief  determined  to  sacrifice  all  whom  ho  thought  had  over 
wronged  his  son,  or  treated  him  with  indignity  ;  nnd  the  first 
victim  whom  he  selected  was  a  very  pretty  and  accomplished 
Chinook  girl,  named  Wnsk^ma,  who  was  remarkable  for  the 
exceeding  beauty  of  her  long  black  hair.  Wa9k<?ma  had  lx;en 
solicited  by  the  boy  in  marriage,  but  had  refused  him,  and  the 
matter  had  been  long  forgotten,  until  it  was  revived  in  the  re- 
collection of  the  father  by  the  death  of  his  son.  Ke-az-a-no 
despatched  two  of  his  slaves  to  Fort  William,  (where  the  girl  was 
nt  that  time  engaged  in  making  moccasins  for  Mr.  W.  and  where 
I  had  seen  her  n  short  time  previously,)  who  hid  themselves 
in  the  neighborhood  until  the  poor  creature  had  embarked  in  her 
ennoc  alone  to  return  to  her  people,  when  they  suddenly  rushed 
upon  her  from  the  forest  which  skirted  the  river,  and  shot  two 
balls  through  her  bosom.  The  body  was  then  thrown  into  the 
water,  and  the  canoe  broken  to  pieces  on  the  bench. 

Tapeo  the  brother  of  Wask^ma  delivered  to  me  a  letter  from 
Mr.  W.  detailing  these  circumstances,  and  amid  an  abundance  of 
tears  which  he  shed  for  the  loss  of  his  only  and  beloved  sister,  he 
denounced  the  heaviest  vengeance  upon  her  murderer.  These 
threats,  however,  I  did  not  regard,  as  I  knew  the  man  would 
never  dare  to  raise  his  hand  against  his  chief,  but  as  expression 
relieves  the  overcharged  heart,  I  did  not  check  his  bursts  of  grief 
and  indignation. 

A  few  days  after  this,  Ke-cz-a-no  himself  stalked  into  my  room. 
After  sitting  a  short  time  in  silence,  he  asked  if  I  believed  him 
guilty  of  the  murder  of  Waskema.  I  replied  that  I  did,  and  that 
if  the  deed  had  been  committed  in  my  country,  he  would  be 
hanged.  He  denied  all  agency  in  the  matter,  and  placing  one 
hand  upon  his  bosom,  and  pointing  upwards  with  the  other,  called 


ACROM  TUB  ROCKY  MOUNT  itMH,  KTC. 


'2'A9 


(tod  to  witness  that  ho  was  innocoiit.  For  iho  moment  i  almost 
believed  his  assorvations ;  but  calling  to  mind  the  strong  and  un- 
(Icninblo  evidence  ngainst  him,  with  a  feeling  of  horror  nnd  re- 
pugnance, I  opened  the  door  ami  bowed  him  out  of  the  house. 

March  Int. — There  is  nn  umusing  little  Indian  living  in  this 
neighborhood,  who  calls  himself  a  "  tanaa  tic."  (little  chief,)  and 
ho  is  so  probably  in  every  scnso  of  the  tern;.  I;*  person,  ho 
stands  about  four  feet  six,  in  his  moccasins ;  but  no  exquisite  in 
the  fashionable  world,  no  tinselled  dnndy  in  high  life,  can  strut 
nnd  stamp,  and  fume  with  more  dignity  and  self  consequence. 
His  name,  he  siiys,  is  Quiilaskin;  but  in  the  fort,  he  is  known  by 
the  cognomen  of  "  busy  body"  from  his  restless  anxiety  to  pry  into 
every  body's  business,  and  his  curiosity  to  know  the  English  name  of 
every  article  he  sees;  ikataookookf — ikata  oofroo/c?  (what  is  this? — 
what  is  this  ?)  kahtah  paniooks  yahhalle  ?  (what  is  its  English 
name?)  arc  expressions  which  ho  is  dinning  in  your  ears,  when- 
ever he  enters  a  room  in  the  fort.  If  you  answer  him,  he  at- 
tempts the  pronunciation  after  you,  and  it  is  often  not  a  little 
ludicrous.  He  is  evidently  proud  of  the  name  the  white  people 
have  given  him,  not  understanding  its  import,  but  supposing  it  to 
be  a  title  of  great  honor  and  dignity.  If  he  is  osked  his  Indian 
name,  he  answers  very  modestly,  Qudlaskin,  (muddy  river,) 
but  if  his  paaiooks  yahhalle  is  required,  he  puffs  up  his  little  per- 
son  to  its  utmost  dimensions,  and  tells  you  with  a  simper  of  pride 
and  self  complacency,  that  it  is  "  mizzy  moddy." 

IGth. — Doctor  W.  F.  Tolmie,  one  of  the  surgeons  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  has  just  arrived  from  Fort  Langley,  on  the 
coast,  and  has  relieved  me  of  the  charge  of  the  hospital,  which 
will  afford  me  the  opportunity  of  peregrinating  again  in  pursuit  of 
specimens.  The  spring  is  just  opening,  the  birds  are  arriving, 
the  plants  are  starting  from  the  ground,  and  in  a  few  weeks,  the 
wide  prairies  of  the  Columbia  will  appear  like  the  richest  flower 
gardens. 


H 


il 


240 


NABRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


May  Vith. — ^Two  days  ago  I  left  the  fort,  and  am  now  en- 
camped on  a  plain  below  Warrior's  point.  Near  me  are  several 
large  lodges  of  Kowalitsk  Indians ;  in  all  probably  one  hundred 
persons.  As  usual,  they  give  me  some  trouble  by  coming  around 
and  lolling  about  my  tent,  and  importuning  me  for  the  various 
little  articles  that  they  see.  My  camp-keeper,  however,  (a  Kli- 
katat,)  is  an  excellent  fellow,  and  has  no  great  love  for  Kowalitsk 
Indians,  so  that  the  moment  he  sees  them  becoming  troublesome, 
he  clears  the  coast,  sana  ceremonie.  There  is  in  one  of  the 
lodges  a  very  pretty  little  girl,  sick  with  intermittent  fever ;  and  to- 
day the  "  medicine  man"  has  been  exercising  his  functions  upon 
the  poor  little  patient ;  pressing  upon  its  stomach  with  his  brawny 
hands  until  it  shrieked  with  the  pain,  singing  and  muttering  his 
incantations,  whispering  in  its  ears,  and  exhorting  the  evil  spirit  to 
pass  out  by  the  door,  &c.  These  exhibitions  would  be  laughable 
did  they  not  involve  such  serious  consequences,  and  for  myself 
I  always  feel  so  much  indignation  against  the  unfeeling  im- 
postor who  operates,  and  pity  for  the  deluded  creatures  who 
submit  to  it,  that  any  emotions  but  those  of  risibility  are  excitod. 

I  had  a  serious  conversation  with  the  father  of  this  child,  in 
which  I  attempted  to  prove  to  him,  and  to  some  twenty  or  thirty 
Indians  who  were  squatted  about  the  ground  near,  that  the 
"  medicine  man"  was  a  vile  impostor,  that  he  was  a  fool  and  a 
liar,  and  that  his  manipulations  were  calculated  to  increase  the 
sufferings  of  the  patient  instead  of  relieving  them.  They  all 
listened  in  silence,  and  with  great  attention  to  my  remarks,  and 
the  wily  conjurer  himself  had  the  full  benefit  of  them  :  he  stood 
by  during  the  whole  time,  assuming  an  expression  of  callous 
indifference  which  not  even  my  warmest  vituperations  could 
affect.  Finally  I  oflfered  to  exhibit  the  strongest  proof  of  the  truth 
of  what  I  had  been  saying,  by  pledging  myself  to  cure  the  child 
in  three  days,  provided  the  "  medicine  man"  was  dismissed  with- 
out delay.    This,  the  father  told  me,  required  some  consideration 


AflflMS   I'lIE   HOCKT   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


341 


who 

:citod. 

d,  in 

lirty 

the 

and  a 

se  the 

all 

and 

stood 

allous 

could 

truth 

child 

with- 

ation 


»nd  eflOiultatlon  with  his  people,  and  I  immediately  left  the  lodge 
Bnd  took  the  way  to  my  camp,  to  allow  them  an  opportunity  of 
diNauiving  the  matter  alone. 

Uarly  mxi  morning  the  Indian  visited  mo,  with  the  infor- 
mation that  tho  "me^'icine  man"  had  departed,  and  he  was 
now  anxloud  that  1  should  make  trial  of  my  skill.  I  immediately 
admlnlsterod  to  the  child  an  active  cathartic,  followed  by  sul- 
phata  of  quiniflO)  which  checked  the  disease,  and  in  two  days  the 
patient  was  porfectly  restored.  '  s    , 

In  eon8@quenco  of  my  success  in  this  case,  I  had  an  applica- 
tion to  a(lmini>«tor  medicine  to  two  other  children  similarly 
affoetedi  My  stock  of  quinine  being  exhausted,  I  determined  to 
substitute  an  extract  of  the  bark  of  the  dogwood,  (Cornus  Nut- 
talU,)  and  taking  one  of  the  parents  into  the  wood  with  his  blan- 
ket, I  soon  chipped  off  a  plentiful  supply,  returned,  boiled  it  in 
his  own  kettle,  and  completed  the  preparation  in  his  lodge,  with 
most  of  the  Indians  standing  by,  and  staring  at  me,  to  compre- 
hend tho  process.  This  was  exactly  what  I  wished;  and  as  I 
proeeeded,  I  look  some  pains  to  explain  the  whole  matter  to  them, 
In  order  that  thoy  might  at  a  future  time  be  enabled  to  make  use 
of  a  really  valuable  medicine,  which  grows  abundantly  every 
where  throughout  the  country.  I  have  often  thought  it  strange 
that  tho  sagoeity  of  tho  Indians  should  not  long  ago  have  made 
them  oequainted  with  this  remedy;  and  I  believe,  if  they  had 
used  It,  they  would  not  have  had  to  mourn  the  loss  of  hundreds, 
or  even  thousands  of  their  people  who  have  been  swept  away  by 
the  demon  of  ague  and  fever. 

I  administered  to  each  of  the  children  about  a  scruple  of  the 
extract  per  day.  The  second  day  they  escaped  the  paroxysm, 
and  on  the  third  were  entirely  well. 

June  80<A.— I  left  Vancouver  yesterday,  with  the  summer 
brigade,  for  a  visit  to  Walla-walla,  and  its  vicinity.     The  gentle- 

31 


,t . 


342 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


men  of  the  party  are,  Peter  Ogden,  Esq.,  chief  factor,  bound  to 
New  Caledonia,  Archibald  McDonald,  Esq.,  for  Colville,  and 
Samuel  Black,  Esq.,  for  Thompson's  river,  and  the  brigade  con- 
mstH  of  sixty  men,  with  nine  boats.      <«:*:;!•-  i 

With. — We  arrived  yesterday  at  the  upper  cascades,  and  made 
in  the  course  of  the  day  three  portages.  As  is  usual  in  this 
place,  it  rained  almost  constantly,  and  the  poor  men  engaged  in 
carrying  the  goods,  were  completely  drenched.  A  considerable 
number  of  Indians  are  employed  here  in  fishing,  and  they  supply 
UM  with  on  abundance  of  salmon.  Among  them  I  recognise 
many  of  my  old  friends  from  below. 

29M. — This  morning  the  Indian  wife  of  one  of  the  men  gave 
birth  to  a  little  girl.  The  tent  in  which  she  was  lying  was 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  one  which  I  occupied,  and  we  had 
no  intimation  of  the  matter  being  in  progress  until  we  heard  the 
crying  of  the  infant.  It  is  truly  astonishing  with  what  ease  the 
porturition  of  these  women  is  performed ;  they  generally  require 
no  assistance  in  delivery,  being  fully  competent  to  managing  the 
whole  paraphernalia  themselves.  In  about  half  an  hour  afler 
this  event  we  got  under  way,  and  the  woman  walked  to  the  boat, 
carrying  her  new  born  infant  on  her  back,  embarked,  laughed, 
ond  talked  as  usual,  and  appeared  in  every  respect  as  well  as  if 
nothing  had  happened. 

This  woman  is  a  most  noble  specimen  of  bone  and  muscle,  and 
so  mnsculine  in  appearance,  that  were  she  to  cast  the  petticoat, 
nnd  don  the  breeches,  the  cheat  would  never  be  discovered,  and 
but  few  of  the  lords  of  thi  creation  would  be  willing  to  face  the 
Amazon.  She  is  particularly  useful  to  her  husband.  As  he  is 
becoming  rather  infirm,  she  can  protect  him  most  admirably. 
If  he  wishes  to  cross  a  stream  in  travelling  without  horses  or 
boats,  she  plunges  in  without  hesitation,  takes  him  upon  her 
back,  and  lands  him  safely  and  expeditiously  upon  the  opposite  bank. 
Sh(t  can  also  kill  and  dress  an  elk,  run  down  and  shoot  a  buffalo, 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKIT   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


243 


or  spear  a  salmon  for  her  husband's  breakfast  in  the  morning,  as 
well  as  any  man-servant  he  could  employ.  Added  to  all  this, 
she  has,  in  several  instances,  saved  his  life  in  skirmishes  with 
Indians,  at  the  imminent  risk  of  her  own,  so  that  he  has  some 
reason  to  be  proud  of  her. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  passed  the  bold,  basaltic  point,  known  to 
the  voyageura  by  the  name  of  "  Cape  Horn."  The  wind  here 
blew  a  perfect  hurricane,  and  but  for  the  consummate  skill  of 
those  who  managed  our  boats,  we  must  have  had  no  little 
difficulty.  '  ,    > 

30th. — We  were  engaged  almost  the  whole  of  this  day  in 
ma?<ini>  'ortages,  and  I  had,  in  consequence,  some  opportunity  of 
prosov  ;  y  researches  on  the  land.     We  have  now  passed 

the  ra,  j  . ;  vegetation ;  there  are  no  trees  or  even  shrubs ;  no- 
thing but  huge,  jagged  rocks  of  basalt,  and  interminable  sand 
heaps.  I  found  here  a  large  and  beautiful  species  of  marmot,  (the 
Arctomys  Richardsonii,)  several  of  which  I  shot.  Encamped 
in  the  evening  at  the  village  of  the  Indian  chief,  Tilki.  I  had 
often  heard  of  this  man,  but  I  now  saw  him  for  the  first  time. 
His  person  is  rather  below  the  middle  size,  but  his  features  are 
good,  with  a  Roman  cast,  and  his  eye  is  deep  black,  and  unu- 
sually fine.  He  appears  to  be  remarkably  intelligent,  and  half  a 
century  before  the  generality  of  his  people  in  civilization. 

July  3d. — ^This  morning  we  came  to  the  open  piairies,  covered 
with  wormwood  bushes.  The  appearance,  and  strong  odor  of 
these,  forcibly  remind  me  of  my  journey  across  the  mountains, 
when  we  frequently  saw  no  vegetation  for  weeks,  except  this  dry 
and  barren  looking  shrub. 

The  Indians  here  are  numerous,  and  are  now  engaged  in 
catching  salmon,  lamprey  eels,  &c.  They  take  thousands  of  the 
latter,  and  they  are  seen  hanging  in  great  numbers  in  their 
lodges  to  dry  in  the  smoke.  As  soon  as  the  Indians  see  us 
approach,  they  leave  their  wigwams,  and  run  out  towards  us. 


244  NARRATIVK    OF   A   JOVRNEY 

frequently  wading  to  their  breasts  in  the  water,  to  get  near  the 
boats.  Their  constant  cry  is  pi-pi,  pi-pi,  (tobacco,  tobacco,) 
and  they  bring  a  great  variety  of  matters  to  trade  for  this  de- 
sirable article ;  fish,  living  birds  of  various  kinds,  young  wolves, 
foxes,  minks,  &c.  .v    :  ,,.!,..>.      ..       ^-.h 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th,  we  arrived  at  Walla-walla  or  Nez 
Pcrces  fort,  where  I  was  kindly  received  by  Mr.  Pambrun,  the 
superintendent. 

The  next  day  the  brigade  left  us  for  the  interior,  and  I 
shouldered  my  gun  for  an  excursion  through  the  neighborhood. 
On  the  west  side  of  the  little  Walla-walla  river,  I  saw,  during  a 
walk  of  two  miles,  at  least  thirty  rattlesnakes,  and  killed  five 
that  would  not  get  out  of  my  way.  They  all  seemed  willing  to 
dispute  the  ground  with  me,  shaking  their  rattles,  coiling  and 
darting  at  mo  with  great  fury.  I  returned  to  the  fort  in  the 
afternoon  with  twenty-two  sharp-tailed  grouse,  (Tetrao phasi- 
anellus,)  the  product  of  my  day's  shooting. 

25th. — I  mounted  my  horse  this  morning  for  a  journey  to  the 
Blue  mountains.  I  am  accompanied  by  a  young  half  breed 
named  Babtiste  Dorion,*  who  acts  as  guide,  groom,  interpreter, 
&c.,  and  I  have  a  pack  horse  to  carry  my  little  nick-nackeries. 
We  shaped  our  course  about  N.  E.  over  the  sandy  prairie,  and  in 
vhe  evening  encamped  on  the  Morro  river,  having  made  about 
thirty  miles.  On  our  way,  we  met  two  Walla-walla  Indians 
driving  down  a  large  band  of  horses.  They  inform  us  that  the 
Snakes  have  crossed  the  mountain  to  commence  their  annual 
thieving  of  horses,  and  they  are  taking  them  away  to  have  them 
secure.  I  shall  need  to  keep  a  good  look  out  to  my  own  small 
caravan,  or  I  shall  be  under  the  necessity  of  turning  pedestrian. 

*  This  is  the  son  of  old  Pierre  Dorion,  who  make*  such  a  conspicuous  figure  in 
Irving's  "  Astoria." 


■;f 


ACROSS   TUB   ROCKY   SIOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


245 


-  ,  CHAPTER   XV. 

^  village  of  Kayouse  Indians— their  occupation— appearance  ami  dresses  of  the 
women— family  ivorihip — its  good  effects — Visit  la  the  Blue  mountains — 
Dusky  grouse— Return  to  Walla-walla — Jlirival  of  Mr.  McLeod,  and  the 
missionaries — Letters  from  home — Death  of  Antoine  Goddin,  the  trapper — A 
renegado  white  man— Assault  by  the  Walla-walla  Indians— Missionary 
duties — Passage  doien  the  Columbia— Rapids — A  dog  for  supper — Prairies 
on  fire — A  nocturnal  visit — Fishing  Indians — Their  romantic  appearance — 
Salmon  huts — The  shoots — Dangerous  navigation — Death  of  Tilki — Seals — 
Indian  stoicism  and  contempt  of  pain—Skookitom,  the  strong  chitf—his 
death — Maiming,  an  evidence  of  grief — Arrival  at  Fort  Vancouver— A  visit 
to  Fort  George— Indian  cemeteries — Lewis  and  Clarke's  house — A  medal- 
Visit  to  Chinook — Hospitality  of  the  Indians — Chinamus^  house— The  idol— 
Canine  inmates. 


I  figure  in 


July  26th. — At  noon,  to-day,  we  arrived  at  the  Utalla,  or 
Emmitilly  river,  where  we  found  a  large  village  of  Kayouse  In- 
dians, engaged  in  preparing  kamas.  Large  quantities  of  this 
root  were  strewed  about  on  mats  and  buffalo  robes ;  some  in  a 
crude  state,  and  a  vast  quantity  pounded,  to  be  made  into  cakes 
for  winter  store.  There  are  of  the  Indians,  about  twelve  or 
fifteen  lodges.  A  very  large  one,  about  sixty  feet  long  by  fifteen 
broad,  is  occupied  by  the  chief,  and  his  immediate  family.  This 
man  I  saw  when  I  arrived  at  Walla-walla,  and  I  have  accepted 
an  invitation  to  make  my  home  in  his  lodge  while  I  remain 
here.  The  house  is  really  a  very  comfortable  one;  the  rays  of 
the  sun  are  completely  excluded,  and  the  ground  is  covered  with 
buffalo  robes.  There  are  in  the  chief's  lodge  about  twenty 
women,  all  busy  as  usual ;  some  pounding  kamas,  others  making 


f 


246 


NARBA.TIVK   OF    A   JOURNEY 


lit 


leathern  dresses,  moccasins,  &c.  Several  of  the  younger  of 
these  are  very  good-  looking, — I  might  almost  say  handHOme. 
Their  heads  are  of  the  natural  form, — not  flattened  and  contorted 
in  the  horrible  manner  of  the  Chinooks ; — their  faces  are  in- 
clining to  oval,  and  their  eyes  have  a  peculiorly  sleepy  and 
languishing  oppearance.  They  seem  as  if  naturally  inclined  to 
lasciviousncss,  but  if  this  feeling  exists,  it  is  effectually  chucked 
by  their  self-enacted  laws,  which  are  very  severe  in  this  reapect, 
and  in  every  instance  rigidly  enforced.  The  dresses  of  the 
women,  (unlike  the  Chinooks,  they  all  have  dresses,)  are  of  door 
or  antelope  skin,  more  or  less  ornamented  with  beads  and  hy- 
quds.*  It  consists  of  one  piece,  but  the  part  covering  the  buHt, 
projects  over  the  lower  portion  of  the  garment,  and  its  edges  nro 
cut  into  strings,  to  which  a  quantity  of  blue  beads  arc  generally 
attached. 

In  the  evening  all  the  Indians  belonging  to  the  village 
assembled  in  our  lodge,  and,  with  the  chief  for  minister,  porformod 
divine  service,  or  family  worship.  This,  I  learn,  is  their  invuri> 
able  practice  twice  every  twenty-four  hours,  at  sunrise  in  the 
morning,  and  aflcr  supper  in  the  evening.  When  all  the  people 
had  gathered,  our  large  lodge  was  filled.  On  entering,  every 
person  squatted  on  the  ground,  and  the  clerk  (a  sort  of  sub- 
chieQ  gave  notice  that  the  Deity  would  now  be  addressed. 
Immediately  the  whole  oudience  rose  to  their  knees,  and  the  chief 
supplicated  for  about  ten  minutes  in  a  very  solemn,  but  low  tono 
of  voice,  at  the  conclusion  of  which  an  amen  was  pronounced  by 
the  whole  company,  in  a  loud,  swelling  sort  of  groan.  Three 
hymns  were  then  sung,  several  of  the  individuals  present  leading 
in  rotation,  and  at  the  conclusion  of  each,  another  amen.  The 
chief  then  pronounced  a  short  exhortation,  occupying  about 
fifleen  minutes,  which  was  repeated  by  the  clerk  at  his  elbow  in 
a  voice  loud  enough  to  be  heard  by  the  whole  assembly.     At  the 

*  A  long  wliitu  slii'll,  of  tliv  gciius  Dentalium,  round  on  tlic  coHSt. 


ACR0R8   THR   ROrKV    MOVKfAtNi,  KTC. 


247 


conclusion  of  this,  each  pardon  nmn,  and  walked  to  one  of  the 
doors  of  the  lodge,  whoru,  milking  n  low  inclination  of  his  body, 
and  pronouncing  the  wordH  ••  tot»  «t'fca«,"  (good  night,)  to  the 
chief,  he  departed  to  liitt  homr. 

I  shall  hear  this  corofr  ovniv  'hi  nnd  morning  wj.'o  i 
remain,  and  so  far  from  hmn  ii'kifomo,  it  is  ngrocablc  to  me.  It 
is  pleasant  to  see  these  poor  dcgriidod  crrntiircs  performing  a 
religious  service ;  for  to  siiy  nritliiiig  of  thc!  good  influence  which 
it  will  exert  in  improving  their  pr«wint  condition,  it  will  probably 
soften  and  harmonize  thoir  fiiolingx,  and  render  them  fitter  sub- 
jects for  the  properly  qunliOod  religious  instruction  which  it  is 
desirable  they  may  some  doy  rct'divei 

The  next  morning,  my  friend  tlie  cltief  fiirnished  me  with  fresh 
horses,  and  I  and  my  attondniit,  with  two  Indian  guides,  started 
for  a  trip  to  the  mountain.  Wo  pnMcd  up  one  of  the  narrow 
valleys  or  gorges  which  horn  run  lit  right  angles  from  the  alpine 
land,  and  as  we  ascended,  the  Hceiiery  bocnmo  more  and  more  wild, 
and  the  ground  rough  and  difHcult  of  pnnsngc,  but  I  had  under  mc 
one  of  the  finest  horses  I  ever  rode;  ho  Dcomcd  perfectly  acquainted 
with  the  country ;  I  had  but  to  givo  him  his  head,  and  not  attempt 
to  direct  him,  and  he  carried  mo  triutnphnntly  through  every  diffi- 
culty. Immediately  as  we  roncliod  tho  upper  land,  and  the  pine  trees, 
we  saw  large  flocks  of  the  dusky  groiiso,  (jTf/mo  obgnirua,)  a  num- 
ber of  which  we  killed.  Other  hirdu  were,  however,  very  scarce. 
I  am  at  least  two  months  too  latrt,  nnd  I  cnnnot  too  much  regret 
the  circumstance.  Hero  is  n  mh  field  for  the  ornithologist  at  the 
proper  season.  Wo  returned  to  our  lodge  in  the  evening  loaded 
with  grouse,  but  with  very  few  spneiineMx  fo  incrcose  my  collec- 
tion. 

2Qth. — Early  this  morning  our  Indians  struck  their  lodges, 
and  commenced  making  all  their  numerous  movables  into  bales 
for  packing  on  the  horses,  I  flilmired  Iho  facility  and  despatch 
with  which  this  was  done ;  the  women  (done  worked  at  it,  the 


'*4' 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


men  lolling  around,  smoking  and  talking,  and  not  ever  once  di- 
recting their  fair  partners  in  their  tasl  Tlie  whole  camp  tra- 
velled with  me  to  Walia-walla,  where  we  arrived  the  next  day. 

Sept.  lat. — Mr.  John  M'Leod,  a  chief  trader  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  arrived  this  morning  from  the  rendezvous,  with  a 
small  trading  party.  I  had  been  anxiously  expecting  this  gentle- 
man for  several  weeks,  as  I  intended  to  return  with  him  to  Van- 
couver. He  is  accompanied  by  several  Presbyterian  missiona- 
ries, the  Rev.  Mr.  Spalding  and  Doctor  Whitman,  with  their 
wives,  and  Mr.  Gray,  teacher.  Doctor  Whitman  presented  me 
with  a  large  pacquet  of  letters  from  my  beloved  friends  at  home. 
I  need  not  speak  of  the  emotions  excited  by  their  reception,  nor 
of  the  trembling  anxiety  with  which  I  tore  open  the  envelope 
and  devoured  the  contents.  This  is  the  first  intelligence  which  I 
have  received  from  them  since  I  left  the  state  of  Missouri,  and  was 
as  unexpected  as  it  was  delightful 

Mr.  M'Leod  informed  me  of  tK  murder  of  Antoine  Goddin, 
the  half-breed  trapper,  by  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  at  Fort  Hall. — 
A  band  of  these  Indians  appeared  on  the  shore  o{  the  Portneuf 
river,  opposite  the  fort,  headed  by  a  white  man  named  Bird.— 
This  man  requested  Goddin,  whom  he  saw  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  to  cross  to  him  with  a  canoe,  as  he  had  beaver 
which  he  wished  to  trade.  The  poor  man  accordingly  embarked 
alone,  and  landing  near  the  Indians,  joined  the  circle  which  they 
had  made,  and  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  with  them.  While 
Goddin  was  smoking  in  his  turn.  Bird  gave  a  sign  to  the  Indians, 
and  a  volley  was  fired  into  his  back.  While  he  was  yet  living, 
Bird  himself  tore  the  scalp  from  the  poor  fellow's  head,  and  deli- 
berately cut  Captain  Wyeth's  initials,  N.  J.  W.  in  large  letters 
upon  his  forehead.  He  then  hallowed  to  the  fort  people,  telling 
them  to  bury  the  carcass  if  they  wished,  and  immediately  went 
off  with  his  party. 


// 


ACR088   THE   ROCKV    MOUNT AIK8,  ETC. 


349 


Goddin, 

Hall.— 

'ortneuf 

Bird.— 

)site  side 

beaver 
(Tibarked 
ich  they 
While 

ndians, 
t  living, 

nd  deli- 
letters 

,  telling 

ly  went 


'.  This  Bird  was  formerly  attached  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, and  was  made  prisoner  by  the  Blackfect,  in  a  skirmish 
several  years  ago.  He  has  since  remained  with  them,  and  has 
become  a  great  chief,  and  leader  of  their  war  parties.  He  is  said 
to  be  a  man  of  good  education,  and  to  possess  the  most  unbound- 
ed influence  over  the  savago  people  among  whom  he  dwells.  Ho 
was  known  to  be  a  personal  enemy  of  Goddin,  whom  he  had 
sworn  to  destroy  on  the  first  opportunity. 

We  also  hear,  that  three  of  Captain  Wyeth's  men  who  lately 
visited  us,  had  been  assaulted  on  their  way  to  Fort  Hall,  by  a  band 
of  Walla-walla  Indians,  who,  after  beating  them  severely,  took 
from  them  all  their  horses,  traps,  ammunition,  and  clothing.  They 
were,  however,  finally  induced  to  return  them  each  a  horse  and 
gun,  in  order  that  they  might  proceed  to  the  interior,  to  get  fresh 
supplies.  This  was  a  matter  of  policy  on  the  part  of  the  Indians, 
for  if  the  white  men  had  been  compelled  to  travel  on  foot,  they 
would  have  come  immediately  here  to  procure  fresh  horses,  <&c., 
and  thus  exposed  the  plunderers.  Mr.  Pambrun  is  acquainted 
with  the  ringleader  of  this  band  of  marauders,  and  intends  to 
take  the  first  opportunity  of  inflicting  upon  him  due  punishment, 
as  well  as  to  compel  him  to  mnke  ample  restitution  for  the  stolen 
property,  and  broken  heads  of  the  unoffending  trappers. 

I  have  had  this  evening,  some  interesting  conversation  with 
our  guests,  the  missionaries.  They  appear  admirably  qualified 
for  the  arduous  duty  to  which  they  have  devoted  themselves, 
their  minds  being  fully  alive  to  the  mortifications  and  trials  inci- 
dent to  a  residence  among  wild  Indians ;  but  they  do  not  shrink 
from  the  task,  believing  it  to  be  their  religious  duty  to  engage  in 
this  work.  The  ladies  have  borne  the  journey  astonishingly  ; 
they  look  robust  and  healthy. 

3flf. — Mr.  M'Leod  and  myself  embarked  in  a  large  bat- 
teau,  with  six  men,  and  bidding  farewell  to  Mr.  Pambrun  and  the 

missionaries,  were  soon  gliding  down  the  river.   We  ran,  to-day, 

32 


200 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOVRlfUT 


several  rapids,  and  in  the  evening  encamped  about  fiAeeu  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Utnlla  river. 

This  running  of  rapids  appears  rather  a  dangerous  business 
to  those  unaccustomed  to  it,  and  it  is  in  reality  sufficiently  hazard- 
ous, except  when  performed  by  old  and  skilful  hands.  Every 
thing  depends  upon  the  men  who  manage  the  bow  and  stern  of 
the  boat.  The  moment  she  enters  the  rapid,  the  two  guides  lay 
aside  their  oars  taking  in  their  stead  paddles,  such  as  arc  used 
in  the  management  of  a  canoe.  The  middle-men  ply  their  oars; 
the  guides  brace  themselves  against  the  gunwale  of  the  boat, 
placing  their  paddles  edgewise  down  her  sides,  and  away  she 
goes  over  the  curling,  foaming,  and  hissing  waters,  like  a  race 
horse. 

We  passed  to-day  several  large  lodges  of  Indians,  from  whom 
we  wished  to  have  purchased  fish,  but  they  had  none,  or  were 
not  willing  to  spare  any,  so  that  we  were  compelled  to  purchase 
a  dog  for  supper.  I  have  said  we,  but  I  beg  leave  to  correct  my- 
self, as  I  was  utterly  averse  to  the  proceeding ;  not,  however, 
from  any  particular  dislike  to  the  quality  of  the  food,  (I  have 
eaten  it  repeatedly,  and  relished  it,)  but  I  am  always  unwilling, 
unless  when  suffering  absolute  wont,  to  take  the  life  of  so  noble 
and  faiihful  an  animal.  Our  hungry  oarsr^.on,  however,  appeared 
to  have  no  such  scruples.  The  Indian  called  his  dog,  and  he 
came  to  him,  wagging  his  tail !  He  sold  his  companion  for  ten 
balls  and  powder!  One  of  our  men  approached  the  poor  animal 
with  an  axe.  I  turned  away  my  head  to  avoid  the  sight,  but  I 
heard  the  dull,  sodden  sound  of  the  blow.  The  tried  friend  and 
faithful  companion  lay  quivering  in  the  agonies  of  death  at  its 
master's  feet. 

We  are  enjoying  a  most  magnificent  sight  at  our  camp  this 
evening.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  Indians  have 
fired  the  prairie,  and  the  whole  country  for  miles  around  is  most 
brilliantly  illuminated.     Here  am  I  sitting  cross-legged  on  the 


ACROSS   THB   ROOKY    MOVIfTAINS,  ETC. 


251 


ground,  scribbling  by  the  light  of  tho  vast  conflagration  with  as 
much  case  as  if  I  had  a  ton  of  oil  burning  by  my  side ;  but  my 
eyes  arc  every  moment  involuntarily  wandering  from  the  paper 
before  me,  to  contemplate  and  admire  the  grandeur  of  the  dis- 
tant scene.  The  very  heavens  themselves  appear  ignited,  and 
the  fragments  of  ashes  and  burning  grass-blades,  ascending  and 
careering  about  through  the  glowing  firmament,  look  like  brilliant 
and  glorious  birds  let  loose  to  roam  and  revel  amid  this  splendid 
scene.  It  is  past  midnight :  every  one  in  tho  camp  is  asleep,  and 
I  am  this  moment  visited  by  half  a  dozen  Indian  fishermen,  who 
arc  peering  ov.i  my  shoulders,  and  soliciting  a  smoke,  so  that  I 
shall  have  to  stop,  and  fill  my  calamet. 

5th. — The  Indians  are  numerous  along  the  river,  and  all 
engaged  in  fishing ;  as  we  pass  along,  we  frequently  see  them 
posted  upon  the  rocks  overhanging  the  water,  surveying  the  boil- 
ing and  roaring  food  below,  for  tho  passing  r^almon.  In  most 
instances,  an  Indian  is  seen  entirely  alone  in  these  situations, 
often  standing  for  half  an  hour  perfectly  still,  his  eyes  rivetted  upon 
the  torrent,  and  his  long  fish  spear  poised  above  his  head.  The 
appearance  of  a  solitary  and  naked  aavage  thus  perched  like  an 
eagle  upon  a  cliff,  is  sometimes, — when  taken  in  connexion  with 
the  wild  and  rugged  river  scenery, — very  picturesque.  The 
spear  is  a  pole  about  twelve  feet  in  length,  at  the  end  of  which  a 
long  wooden  fork  is  made  fast,  and  between  the  tines  is  fixed  a 
barbed  iron  point.  They  also,  in  some  situations,  use  a  hand 
scoop-net,  and  stand  upon  scaffolds  ingeniously  constructed  over 
the  rapid  water.  Their  winter  store  of  dried  fish  is  stowed  away 
in  little  huts  of  mats  and  branches,  closely  interlaced,  and  also 
in  caches  under  ground.  It  is  often  amusing  to  see  the  hungry 
ravens  tearing  and  tugging  at  the  strong  twigs  of  the  houses,  in 
a  vain  attempt  to  reach  the  savory  food  within. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  passed  John  Day's  river,  and  encamped 
about  sunset  at  the  "  shoots."    Here  is  a  very  large  village  of 


202 


N\RRATIVH   OF   A   JOURNCY 


Indians,  (the  sumo  that  I  noticed  in  my  journal,  on  the  passage 
down,)  and  wc  aru  this  evening  surrounded  by  some  scores  of 
them.  ,  ,'•.*-,:  -• 

6M. — Wo  mado  the  portogo  of  the  shoots  this  morning  by 
carrying  our  boat  and  baggago  across  the  land,  and  in  half  an 
hour,  arrived  at  one  of  the  upper  dallea.  Hero  Mr.  M'Lcod 
and  mysell'debarivcil,  and  the  men  ran  the  dall.  Wo  walked  on 
ahead  to  the  most  dangerous  part,  and  stood  upon  the  rocks 
about  a  hundred  feet  above  to  observe  them.  It  reuUy  seemed 
exceedingly  dangerous  to  see  the  bont  dashing  ahead  like  light- 
ning through  the  foaming  und  roaring  waters,  sometimes  raised 
high  above  the  enormous  swells,  and  dashed  down  again  as  if 
she  were  seeking  the  bottom  with  her  bows,  and  at  others  whirled 
around  and  nearly  sucked  under  by  the  whirlpools  constantly 
forming  around  her.  But  she  stemmed  every  thing  gallantly, 
under  the  direction  of  our  experienced  guides,  and  we  soon  cm- 
barked  again,  and  proceeded  to  the  lower  dalles.  Here  it  is  ut- 
terly impossible,  in  the  present  state  of  the  water,  to  pass,  so  that 
the  boat  and  baggage  had  to  be  carried  across  the  whole  portage. 
This  occupied  the  remainder  of  the  day,  and  we  encamped  in  the 
evening  at  a  short  distance  from  the  lower  villages.  The  Indians 
told  us  with  sorrowful  faces  of  the  recent  death  of  their 
principal  chief,  Tilki.  Well,  thought  I,  the  white  man  has  lost 
a  friend,  and  long  will  it  be  before  we  see  his  like  again  !  The 
poor  fellow  was  unwell  when  I  last  saw  him,  with  a  complaint  of 
his  breast,  which  I  suspected  to  be  pulmonary.  I  gave  him  a 
few  simple  medicines,  and  told  him  I  should  soon  sec  him  again. 
Well  do  I  remember  the  look  of  despondency  with  which  he 
bade  me  farewell,  and  begged  me  to  return  soon  and  give  him 
more  medicine.  About  two  weeks  since  he  ruptured  a  blood  ves- 
sel, and  died  in  a  short  time. 

We  see  great  numbers  of  seals  as  we  pass  along.    Immediately 


ACRUU  TNR  ROCKY  M0VNTAIN8,  ETC. 


2fi3 


I  lately 


below  tliQ  Dulles  tlioy  are  particularly  abundant,  being  attracted 
thither  by  the  vast  shoals  of  salmon  which  seek  the  turbulent 
water  of  the  river.  VVc  occnsionully  shoot  one  of  them  as  ho 
raises  his  dog-liko  head  almvc  the  surfaec,  but  we  make  no 
use  of  them  ;  they  arc  only  valuable  for  the  large  (|uantity  of  oil 
which  they  yield.  "  '  . 

We  observe  on  the  breasts  and  bellies  of  many  of  the  Indians 
hero,  a  number  of  largo  red  marks,  mostly  of  an  oval  form,  some- 
times twenty  or  thirty  grouped  together.  These  aio  wounds  mui'.j 
by  their  own  hands,  to  display  to  their  people  tho  unwavering  and 
stoical  resolution  with  which  they  can  endure  pain.  A  large 
fold  of  the  skin  is  taken  up  with  tho  fmgcrs,  and  sliced  off  with  a 
knife;  the  surrounding  fibre  then  retreats,  and  a  large  and  ghastly 
looking  wound  remains.  Many  that  I  saw  to-day  are  yet 
scarcely  cicatrized.  There  is  a  chief  here  who  obtained  tho  dig- 
nity which  he  now  enjoys,  solely  by  his  numerous  and  hardy 
feats  of  this  kind.  Ho  was  originally  a  common  man,  and  pos- 
sessed but  one  wife  ;  he  has  now  star,  and  any  of  the  tribe  would 
think  themselves  honored  by  his  alliance.  He  is  a  most  gigantic 
fellow,  about  six  feet  four  inches  in  height,  and  remarkably  stout 
and  powerful.  The  whole  front  of  his  person  is  covered  with  the 
red  marks  of  which  I  have  spoken,  and  he  displays  with  con- 
siderable pride  the  two  scars  of  a  bullet,  which  entered  the  left 
breast,  and  passed  out  below  the  shoulder  blade.  Tliis  wound 
he  also  made  with  his  own  hand,  by  placing  the  muzsle  f  bis 
gun  against  his  breast,  an^  pressing  the  trigger  with  hia  K-c ; 
and  by  this  last,  and  most  daring  act,  he  was  raised  to  the  chief 
command  of  all  the  Indians  on  the  north  side  of  the  riv^c.  Now 
that  Tilki  is  no  more,  he  will  probably  be  chosen  chi<-f  of  all  the 
country  from  the  cascades  to  Walla-walla.  I  asked  him  if  he 
felt  no  fear  of  death  from  the  wound  in  his  chest,  at  the  time  it 
was  inflicted. .  He  said,  no ;  that  his  heart  was  strong,  and  that 
a  bullet  could  never  kill  him.     He  told  me  that  he  was  entirely 


% 


# 


254 


NARRATIVE   OF  A  JOVRNET 


^ 

^ 


well  in  a  week  afler  this  occurrence,  but  that  for  two  days  he 
vomited  blood  constantly.  He  is  named  by  the  Indians  '*  Skoo- 
koom"  (the  strong.) 

About  six  weeks  after,  Mr.  M'Leod,  who  again  returned  from  a 
visit  to  Walla-walla,  informed  me  that  the  strong  chief  was  dead. 
A  bullet,  (or  rather  two  of  them,)  killed  him  at  last,  in  spite  of 
his  supposed  invulnerability.  He  was  shot  by  one  of  his  people 
in  a  fit  of  jealousy.  Skookoom  had  assisted  Mr.  M'Leod  with 
his  boats  across  the  portage,  and,  being  a  chief,  he  of  course 
received  more  for  the  service  than  a  common  man.  This 
wretch,  who  was  but  a  serf  in  the  tribe,  chose  to  be  ofiendcd  by 
it,  and  vented  his  rage  by  murdering  his  superior.  He  fired  a 
ball  from  his  own  gun  into  his  breast,  which  brought  him  to  the 
ground,  and  then  despatched  him  with  a  second,  which  he  seized 
from  another.  So  poor  Skookoom  has  passed  away,  and  such  is 
the  frail  tenure  upon  which  an  Indian  chief  holds  his  authority 
and  his  life.  The  murderer  will  no  doubt  soon  die  by  the  hand 
of  some  friend  or  relative  of  the  deceased ;  he  in  his  turn  will  be 
killed  by  another,  and  as  usual,  the  bloody  business  will  go  on 
indefinitely,  and  may  even  tend  to  produce  an  open  war  between 
the  rival  parties. 

I  saw  an  old  man  here,  apparently  eighty  years  of  age,  who 
had  given  himself  three  enormous  longitudinal  gashes  in  his  leg, 
to  evince  his  grief  for  the  loss  of  Tilki.  From  the  sluggishness 
of  the  circulation  in  the  body  of  the  poor  old  creature,  combined 
with  a  morbid  habit,  these  wounds  show  no  disposition  to  heal. 
I  dressed  his  limb,  and  gave  him  a  strict  charge  to  have  it  kept 
clean,  but  knowing  the  universal  carelessness  of  Indians  in  this 
respect,  I  fear  my  directions  will  not  be  attended  to,  and  the  con- 
sequence will  probably  be,  that  the  old  man  will  die  miserably. 
I  spokb  to  him  of  the  folly  of  such  inflictions,  and  took  this 
oppr)rtunity  of  delivering  a  short  lecture  upon  the  same  subject  to 
the  others  assembled  in  his  lodge.  ^  , 


ACnCMIM  THB   KOCKY   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


255 


At  11  e'elodk  next  day  we  arrived  at  the  cascades,  where  we 
mado  th@  long  portage,  and  at  nine  in  the  evening  encamped  in 
Bn  aoh  grove,  ni%  miles  above  Prairie  de  The. 

On  thfl  Sth,  reached  Vancouver,  where  we  found  two  vessels 
whieh  had  just  arrived  from  England. 

On  the  S4th,  I  embarked  in  a  canoe  with  Indians  for  Fort 
George,  and  arrived  in  two  days.  Here  I  was  kindly  received 
by  the  luporintcndcnt,  Mr.  James  Birnie,  and  promised  every 
ouslitBoee  in  forwarding  my  views. 

BQthi^i  visited  to-day  some  cemeteries  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  fort,  and  obtained  the  skulls  of  four  Indians.  Some  of  the  bodies 
were  simply  deposited  in  canoes,  raised  five  or  six  feet  from  the 
ground,  tMwt  in  the  forks  of  trees,  or  supported  on  stakes  driven 
into  the  earthi  In  these  instances  it  was  not  difficult  to  procure 
the  skulls  without  disarranging  the  fabric  ;  but  more  frequently, 
thoy  WMro  nailed  in  boxes,  or  covered  by  a  small  canoe,  which 
was  turned  bottom  upwards,  and  placed  in  a  larger  one,  and  the 
whole  covered  by  strips  of  bark,  carefully  arranged  over  them. 
It  was  then  necessary  to  use  the  utmost  caution  in  removing  the 
eovering,  and  also  to  be  careful  to  leave  every  thing  in  the  same 
stale  In  which  It  was  found.  I  thought  several  times  to  day,  as  I 
have  often  done  in  similar  situations  before  : — Now  suppose  an 
Indian  were  to  step  in  here,  and  see  me  groping  among  the 
bones  of  his  lUthers,  and  laying  unhallowed  hands  upon  the 
mouldering  remains  of  his  people,  what  should  I  say  ? — I  know 
well  what  the  Indian  would  do.  He  would  instantly  shoot  me, 
unless  I  took  (ho  most  effectual  measures  to  prevent  it ;  but  could 
I  have  time  allowed  mo  to  temporize  a  little,  I  could  easily  dis- 
avm  his  h(»stility  ond  ensure  his  silenco,  by  the  offer  of  a  shirt  or 
a  blanket  (  but  the  difficulty  in  most  cases  would  be,  that  in  a 
paroxysm  of  rage  he  would  put  a  bullet  through  your  head,  and  then 
good  bye  to  temporizing.  Luckily  for  my  pursuits  in  this  way,  there 
are  at  present  but  few  Indians  here,  and  I  do  not  therefore  incur 


256 


NARRATIVE    OF    A   JOVRNET 


much  risk  ;  were  it  otherwise,  there  would  be  no  little  danger  in 
these  aggressions.  '-■'  ■     '  ■ 

The  corpses  of  the  several  different  tribes  which  are  buried 
here,  are  known  by  the  difference  in  the  structure  of  their  canoes; 
and  the  sarcophagi  of  the  chiefs  from  those  of  the  common  peo- 
ple, by  the  greater  cure  which  has  been  manifested  in  the 
arrangement  of  the  tomb. 

October  \^th. — I  walked  to  day  around  the  beach  to  the  foot 
of  Young's  bay,  a  distance  of  about  ten  miles,  to  see  the  remains 
of  the  house  in  which  Lewis  and  Clark's  party  resided  during 
the  winter  which  they  spent  here.  The  logs  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed, are  still  perfect,  but  the  roof  of  bark  has  disappeared,  and 
the  whole  vicinity  is  overgrown  with  thorn  and  wild  currant 
bushes. 

One  of  Mr.  Birnie's  children  found,  a  few  days  since,  a  large 
silver  medal,  which  had  been  brought  here  by  Lewis  and  Clark, 
and  had  probably  been  presented  to  some  chief,  who  lost  it.  On 
one  side  was  a  head,  with  the  name  "  Th.  Jefferson,  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  1801."  On  the  other,  two  hands 
interlocked,  surmounted  by  a  pipe  and  tomahawk;  and  above  the 
words,  "  Peace  and  Friendship." 

16//1. — This  afternoon  I  embarked  in  a  canoe  with  Chintimus, 
and  went  with  him  to  his  residence  at  Chinook.  The  chief  wel- 
comed mc  to  his  house  in  a  style  which  would  do  no  discredit  to 
n  more  civilized  person.  His  two  wives  were  ordered  to  make 'a 
bed  for  me,  whl^h  they  did  by  piling  up  about  a  dozen  of  their 
soft  mats,  and  placing  my  blankets  upon  them,  and  a  better  bed  I 
should  never  wish  for.  I  was  regaled,  before  I  retired,  with 
sturgeon,  salmon,  wappatoos,  cranberries,  and  every  thing  else 
that  the  mansion  afforded,  and  was  requested  to  ask  for  any 
thing  I  wanted,  and  it  should  be  furnished  me.  Whatever  may 
Ijc  said  derogatory  to  these  people,  I  can  testify  that  inhospitality 
is  not  among  the  number  of  their  failings.    I  never  went  into  the 


■«. 


ACROSS   THE   BOCKY   MOUNTAINS,   ETC. 


257 


house  of  an  Indian  in  my  life,  in  any  part  of  the  country,  with- 
out being  most  cordially  received  and  welcomed. 

The  chiefs  house  is  built  in  the  usual  way,  of  logs  and  hewn 
boards,  with  a  roof  of  cedar  bark,  and  lined  insido  with  mats. 
The  floor  is  boarded  and  matted,  and  there  is  a  depression  in  the 
ground,  about  a  foot  in  depth  and  four  feet  in  width,  extending 
the  whole  length  of  the  building  in  the  middle,  where  the  fires 
are  made.  ; 

In  this,  as  in  almost  every  house,  there  is  a  large  figure,  or 
idol,  rudely  carved  and  painted  upon  a  board,  and  occupying  a 
conspicuous  place.  To  this  figure  many  of  the  Indians  ascribe 
supernatural  powers.  Cliinamus  says  that  if  he  is  in  any  kind 
of  danger,  and  particularly,  if  he  is  under  the  influence  of  an  evil 
spell,  he  has  only  to  place  himself  against  the  image,  and  the 
difficulty,  of  whatever  kind,  vanishes  at  once.  This  certainly 
savors  of  idolatry,  although  I  believe  they  never  address  the 
uncouth  figure  as  a  deity.  Like  all  other  Indians,  they  acknow- 
ledge a  great  and  invisible  spirit,  who  governs  and  controls,  and 
to  whom  all  adoration  is  due. 

Attached  to  this  establishment,  are  three  other  houses,  simi- 
larly constructed,  inhabited  by  about  thirty  Indians,  and  at  least 
that  number  of  dogs.  These,  although  very  useful  animals  in 
their  place,  are  here  a  great  nuisance.  They  are  of  no  possible 
service  to  the  Indians,  except  to  cat  their  provisions,  and  fill  their 
houses  with  fieas,  and  a  stranger  approaching  the  lodges,  is  in 
constant  danger  of  being  throttled  by  a  legion  of  fierce  brutes, 
who  are  not  half  as  hospitable  as  their  masters. 

I  remained  here  several  days,  making  excursions  through  the 

neighborhood,  and  each  time  when  I  returned  to  the  lodge,  the 

dogs  growled  and  darted  at  me.     I  had  no  notion  of  being  bitten, 

so  I  gave  the  Indians  warning,  that  unless  the  snarling  beasts 

were  tied  up  when  I  came  near,  I  would  shoot  every  one  of 

them.     The  threat  had  the  effect  desired,  and  after  this,  when- 

33 


4 


258 


NARRATIVE   OF  A   JOVHNET 


ever  I  approached  the  lodges,  there  was  a  universal  stir  among 
the  people,  and  the  words,  "  iskam  Jeahmooks,  iskam  kahmooha, 
kalalcalah  tie  chahko,"  (take  up  your  dogs,  take  up  your  dogs, 
the  bird  chief  ta  coming,)  echoed  through  the  little  village,  and 
was  followed  by  the  yelping  and  snarling  of  dozens  of  wolf-dogs, 
and  "  curs  of  low  degree,"  all  of  which  were  gathered  in  haste 
to  the  cover  and  protection  of  one  of  the  houses. 


\! 


i  I 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC.  259 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


JVorthern  excursion— Large  ahoala  oftalmon — Indian  mode  of  catching  them— 
Boute  near  the  beach— Flathead  children— A  storm  on  the  bay— Loss  of  pro- 
vision— Pintail  ducks— Simple  nw.-V  of  killing  salmon— Retvrn  to  Chinook- 
Indian  garrtdity^Return  to  Fort  George — Preparations  for  a  second  trip 
to  the  Sandieich  Islands — Detention  within  the  cape — Aruciety  to  depart — 
The  tropics,  and  tropic  birds— Make  the  island  of  Maui — Arrival  at 
Oahu — Accession  to  the  society — A  visit  with  Mr.  Cowie  to  the  king — 
Illness  (jf  the  princess,  Marieta  JVahienaena — Abrupt  exit  of  the  king—A 
ride  to  fVaititi—'Cocoanut  grove — JK'ative  mode  of  climbing— Death  qf  the 
princess  —grief  of  her  people — barbarous  ceremonies — Residence  in  the  valley 
of  JVuano—A  visit  to  the  palace — Kahiles — Coffin  of  the  princess,  and  in- 
scription— appurtenances— ceremony  of  carrying  the  body  to  the  church — 
description  of  the  pageant — dress  qfthe  king — conclusion  of  the  ceremony. 


October  1  Ith. — I  left  Chinook  this  morning  in  a  canoe  with 
Chinamus,  his  two  wives,  and  a  slave,  to  procure  shelUfish, 
which  are  said  to  be  found  in  great  abundance  towards  the  north. 
We  passed  through  a  number  of  narrow  slues  which  connect  the 
numerous  bays  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  at  noon  debarked, 
left  our  canoe,  took  our  blankets  on  our  shoulders,  and  struck 
through  the  midst  of  a  deep  pine  forest.  After  walking  about 
two  miles,  we  came  to  another  branch,  where  we  found  a  canoe 
which  had  been  left  there  for  us  yesterday,  and  embarking  in 
this,  we  arrived  in  the  evening  at  an  Indian  house,  near  the  sea- 
side, where  we  spent  the  night. 

In  our  passage  through  some  of  the  narrow  channels  to-day, 
we  saw  vast  shoals  of  salmon,  which  were  leaping  and  curvetting 


800 


NARRATIVR    OF    A   JOTTRNBV 


about  in  every  direction,  and  not  unfrcquently  duHliing  llinir 
noses  against  our  canoe,  in  their  headlong  course.  Wo  met  hero 
a  number  of  Indians  engaged  in  fishing.  Their  mode  of  taking 
the  salmon  is  a  very  simple  one.  The  whole  of  the  tackle  co». 
sists  of  a  pole  about  twelve  feet  long,  with  a  largo  iron  hook 
oltached  to  the  end.  This  machine  they  keep  constantly  trailing 
in  the  water,  and  when  the  fish  approaches  the  surface,  by  a 
quick  and  dexterous  jerk,  they  fasten  the  iron  into  bis  Ntdo,  and 
shake  him  uif  into  the  canoe.  They  say  tboy  take  no  many 
fish  that  it  is  necessary  for  them  to  land  about  three  times  a  day 
to  deposit  them. 

The  house  in  which  wo  sleep  to-night  is  not  near  ho  com- 
fortable as  the  one  wo  have  leil.  It  stinks  intolerably  of  Hulnion, 
which  are  hanging  by  scores  to  the  roof,  to  dry  in  the  Niiioke, 
and  our  bed  being  on  the  dead  level,  we  shall  probably  sulfer 
somewhat  from  fleas,  not  to  mention  another  unmentionable  inNcct 
which  is  apt  to  inhabit  these  dormitories  in  considerable  proAiNioii. 
There  are  here  several  young  children;  beautiful,  nut-headed, 
broad-faced,  little  individuals.  One  of  the  little  dears  has  taken 
something  of  a  fancy  to  me,  and  is  now  bunging  over  me,  and 
staring  at  my  book  with  its  great  goggle  eyes.  It  is  somewhat 
strange,  perhaps,  but  I  have  become  so  accustomed  to  tliis  luii- 
versal  deformity,  that  I  now  scarcely  notice  it.  I  hovo  often 
been  evilly  disposed  enough  to  wish,  that  if  in  the  course  of  eventN 
one  of  these  little  beings  should  die,  I  could  get  possession  of  it. 
I  should  like  to  plump  the  small  carcass  into  a  keg  of  spirits, 
and  send  it  homo  for  the  observation  of  the  curious. 

ISth. — Last  night  the  wind  rose  to  a  gale,  and  this  morning  it 
is  blowing  most  furiously,  making  the  usually  culm  water  of 
these  bays  so  turbulent  as  to  be  dangerous  for  our  light  erall. 
Notwithstanding  this  disadvantage,  the  Indians  were  in  favor  of 
starting  for  the  sea,  which  we  accordingly  did  at  an  early  hour. 
Soon  ufter  we  left,  in  crossing  one  of  the  bays,  about  three-iiuar* 


AOKOHH   TIIR    IKXIKV    MntfflTAINi),  RTf!. 


2ni 


,  mid 
luwhut 
iini- 
oftnii 

VlilltN 
of  it. 

tiritH, 


turs  of  a  milo  in  wiiltli,  tlio  watiir  Niiildorily  Ihiciiitio  80  agitated  as 
at  first  nearly  to  upHitt  our  rancM!.  A  [KirDict  hurricano  was 
blowing  right  alioad,  (!old  nn  \vv,  and  tliti  water  was  dashing  over 
us,  and  into  our  llttln  hark,  in  a  inarnior  to  frighten  even  the 
experienced  chief  who  wiih  acting  uh  helnutman.  In  a  few 
minutes  wo  were  sitting  nearly  M|i  to  our  waistbands  in  water, 
although  one  of  the  women  and  niyself  were  (constantly  bailing  it 
out,  employing  liir  tht!  purpose  the  only  two  liats  belonging  to  the 
party,  my  own  and  that  itl'  tho  chief.  We  arrived  at  the  shore 
at  length  in  safety,  although  (hero  was  scarcely  a  dry  thread  on 
us,  and  built  u  tremendoM»*  fire  with  the  drill-wood  which  we 
found  on  the  bcwdi.  We  then  dried  our  clothes  and  blankets  as 
well  as  we  could,  cooked  Notne  ducks  that  we  killed  yesterday, 
and  made  a  hearty  breakfast.  IVIy  stock  of  broad,  sugar,  and 
tea,  is  completely  spoiled  by  the  salt  water,  so  that  until  I  return 
to  Fort  G(!orge,  I  must  live  simply ;  but  I  think  this  no  hardship : 
what  has  been  donu  onett  itan  Ist  done  again. 

In  the  adcrnoon  the  women  collei^ted  for  mo  a  considerable 
number  of  shells,  several  species  (»f  Cardiiim,  Citherea,  Oatrca, 
&.C.,  all  edible,  and  the  last  very  good,  though  small. 

The  common  pintail  duck,  (AnUH  uvula,)  is  found  here  in  vast 
flocks.  The  chief  and  rnywtif  killed  twenty-six  to-day,  by  a 
simultaneous  discharge  of  our  guns.  They  are  exceedingly  fat 
and  most  excellent  eating ;  indeed  all  the  game  of  this  lower 
country  is  far  superior  to  that  Ibund  in  the  neighborhood  of  Van- 
couver. The  du(d<s  feud  upon  a  small  sidimergcd  vegetable 
which  grows  in  great  abimdailiHj  upon  tho  nmly  islands  in  this 
vicinity. 

Tho  next  day  we  embnrkttd  early,  to  return  to  Chinook  Tho 
wind  was  still  blowing  a  gale,  hut  by  running  along  close  to  the 
shore  of  tho  stormy  bay,  we  .were  entdded,  by  adding  greatly  to 
our  distance,  to  escn|K)  the  dilVicullies  ugainst  which   we  con- 


■^^* 


NAHRATIVG   OF   A   JOURNEY 

tended  yesterday,  and  regained  the  slues  with  tolerably  dry  gar- 
ments. 

At  about  10  o'clock,  we  arrived  at  the  portage,  and  struck  in- 
to the  wood,  shouldering  our  baggage  as  before.  We  soon  came 
to  a  beautiful  little  stream  of  fresh  water,  where  we  halted,  and 
prepared  our  breakfast.  In  this  stream,  (not  exceeding  nine  feet 
at  the  widest  part,)  I  was  surprised  to  observe  a  great  number  of 
large  salmon.  Beautiful  fellows,  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
pounds  weight,  darting  and  playing  about  in  the  crystal  water, 
and  often  exposing  three-fourths  of  their  bodies  in  making  their 
way  through  the  shallows.  I  had  before  no  idea  that  these  noble 
fish  were  ever  found  in  such  insignificant  streams,  but  the  In- 
dians say  that  they  always  come  into  the  rivulets  at  this  season, 
and  return  to  the  sea  on  the  approach  of  winter.  Our  slave 
killed  seven  of  these  beautiful  fish,  while  we  made  our  hasty 
breakfast,  his  only  weapon  being  a  light  cedar  paddle. 

We  reached  Chinook  in  the  evening,  and  as  we  sat  around  the 
fires  in  the  lodge,  I  was  amused  by  the  vivid  description  given 
to  the  attentive  inhabitants  by  Chinamus  and  his  wives,  of  the 
perils  of  our  passage  across  the  stormy  bay.  They  all  spoke  at 
once,  and  described  most  minutely  every  circumstance  that  oc- 
curred, the  auditors  continually  evincing  their  attention  to  the 
relation  by  a  pithy  and  sympathizing  hugh.  They  often  appealed 
to  me  for  the  truth  of  what  they  were  saying,  and,  as  in  duty 
bound,  I  gave  an  assenting  nod,  although  at  times  I  fancied  they 
were  yielding  to  a  propensity,  not  uncommon  among  those  of 
Christian  lands,  and  which  is  known  by  the  phrase,  "  drawing  a 
long  bow." 

2l8t, — The  wind  yesterday  was  so  high,  that  I  did  not  con- 
sider it  safe  to  attempt  the  passage  to  Fort  George.     This  morn- 
ing it  was  more  calm,  and  we  put  off  in  a  large  canoe  at  sunrise. 
When  we  had  reached  the  middle  of  Young's  bay,  the  wind  again 
rose,  and  the  water  was  dashing  over  us  in  fine  style,  so  that  we 


ACRoaa  THE  rocky  mountains,  etc. 


that  we 


were  compelled  to  make  for  the  shore  and  wait  until  it  subsided. 
We  lay  by  about  an  hour,  when,  the  water  becoming  more 
smooth,  wo  again  got  under  way,  and  arrived  at  Fort  George 
about  noon.  ' 

On  the  5th  of  November,  I  returned  to  Vancouver,  and  immo' 
diatcly  commenced  packing  my  baggage,  collection,  &c.,  for  a  pas* 
sage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  the  barque  Columbia,  which  is  now 
preparing  to  sail  for  England.  This  is  a  fine  vessel,  of  three  hundred 
tons,  commanded  by  Captain  Royal ;  we  shall  have  eight  passen* 
gers  in  the  cabin;  Captain  Darby,  formerly  of  this  vessel,  R. 
Cowie,  chief  trader,  and  others. 

On  the  21st,  we  dropped  down  the  river,  and  in  two  days 
anchored  off  the  cape.  We  have  but  little  prospect  of  being  able 
to  cross  the  bar ;  the  sea  breaks  over  the  channel  with  a  roar 
like  thunder,  and  the  surf  dashes  and  frets  against  the  rocky  cape 
and  drives  its  foam  far  up  into  the  bay. 

I  long  to  see  blue  water  again.  I  am  fond  of  the  sea ;  it  suits 
both  my  disposition  and  constitution ;  and  thtn  the  reflection,  that 
now  every  foot  I  advance  will  carry  me  nearer  to  my  beloved 
home,  is  in  itself  a  most  powerful  inducement  to  urge  me  on. 
But  much  as  I  desire  again  to  see  home,  much  as  I  long  to  em* 
brace  those  to  whom  T  am  attached  by  the  strongest  ties,  I  have 
nevertheless  felt  something  very  like  regret  at  leaving  Vancouver 
and  its  kind  and  agreeable  residents.  I  took  leave  of  Doctor 
McLoughlin  with  feelings  akin  to  those  with  which  I  should  bid 
adieu  to  an  affectionate  parent ;  and  to  his  fervent,  "  God  bless 
you,  sir,  and  may  you  have  a  happy  meeting  with  your  friends," 
I  could  only  reply  by  a  look  of  the  sincerest  gratitude.  Words 
are  inadequate  to  express  my  deep  sense  of  the  obligations  which 
I  feel  under  to  this  truly  generous  and  excellent  man,  and  I  fear 
I  can  only  repay  them  by  the  sincerity  with  which  I  shall  always 
cherish  the  recollection  of  his  kindness,  and  the  ardent  prayers  I 
shall  breathe  for  his  prosperity  and  happiness. 


NARHATIVB  OP   A    JOVKNKY 

'iOth. — At  daylight  this  morning,  the  wind  being  fuir,  and  the 
bur  more  smooth,  we  weighed  anchor  and  stood  out.  At  n'x)ut 
9  o'clock  wo  Glossed  the  bar,  and  in  a  few  minutes  were  hurry- 
ing ulong  on  the  open  sea  before  n  six-knot  breeze.  Wo  are  now 
out,  and  so  good  bye  to  Capo  Disappointment  and  the  Columbia, 
and  now  for  home,  dear  home  again ! 

December  IQth. — We  are  now  in  the  delightful  tropics,  and 
more  lovely  weather  I  never  saw — clear,  warm  and  balmy,  but 
not  in  the  slightest  degree  debilitating — and  a  tine  trade  wind,  be- 
fore which  we  are  going  eight  and  a  half  knots.  This  morning 
we  saw  a  number  of  beautiful  tropic  birds  Hying  around  the 
vessel.  This  is  one  of  the  loveliest  birds  in  the  world.  With  a 
plumage  of  the  most  unsullied  white,  a  form  which  is  grace  itself, 
and  with  long  red  tail-feathers  streaming  in  the  wind,  it  looks 
like  a  beautiful  sylph  sporting  over  the  desolate  ocean. 

On  the  22d,  wo  made  the  island  of  Maui,  distant  about  twenty- 
five  miles.  This  evening  is  a  most  delightful  one,  ns  indeed  are 
all  the  evenings  in  this  latitude.  The  moon  is  shining  most 
brilliantly,  the  atmosphere  is  dcliciously  warm,  and  we  arc  sail- 
ing over  a  sea  as  smooth  as  a  lake,  with  the  island  of  Morokai 
about  ten  miles  on  our  weather  beam. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5J3d,  we  made  Oahu,  and  as  we  rounded 
Diamond  Hill,  Adams,  the  pilot,  boarded  us,  and  brought  us 
close  outside  the  harbor,  where  we  anchored  for  want  of  wind. 
The  captain,  Mr.  Cowie,  and  myself,  went  ashore  in  the  pilot 
boat,  and  paid  our  respects  to  a  number  of  old  friends  who  were 
assembled  on  the  wharf  to  meet  and  welcome  us. 

January  \st,  1837. — Since  we  arrived,  we  have  been  so  con- 
stantly engaged  in  visiting,  receiving  visits,  and  performing  the 
usual  penance  imposed  upon  strangers  visiting  this  island,  that  I 
have  not  had  an  opportunity  of  continuing  my  notes.  I  am  now 
so  much  in  arrears  that  I  scarcely  know  where  to  begin,  and 
many  little  circumstances,  in  themselves,  perhaps,  trifling  enough, 


ACROSS   TJIT.   ROCKY    M0VNTAIN8,  ETC. 


SOS 


but  which,  at  the  time  of  their  occurrence  interested  me,  must  of 
necessity  liavo  escaped  my  recollection. 

On  my  arrival,  Mr.  George  Pclly,  agent  of  the  Honorable 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  kindly  invited  me  to  his  house,  where  I 
remained  three  doys,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time,  Mr.  Jones  pro- 
cured for  me  a  neat  and  very  comfortable  grass  cottage,  in  m  iiich 
I  live  like  a  prince. 

The  society  of  the  town  has  been  considerably  augmented  and 
improved  since  my  last  visit,  by  the  importation,  from  the  United 
States,  of  some  four  or  five  young  ladies,  and  they  havo  routes 
and  balls,  and  lu  au  parties  in  abundance. 

Sflf. — This  morning,  Mr.  Cowie  and  myself  called  at  the  palace 
to  see  the  king.  At  the  door,  we  were  met  by  one  of  his  nume- 
rous attendants,  who  informed  us  that  his  majesty  was  not  within, 
and  offered  his  services  to  conduct  us  to  his  office,  where  he 
usually  spends  his  mornings.  Here  we  found  him,  and  made  our 
greetings,  which  he  received  and  returned  in  a  handsome  manner. 
He  gave  us  a  qiass  of  excellent  Madeira,  and  a  cigar,  and  we 
smoked  and  chatted  with  him  very  pleasantly  for  half  an  hour. 
He  does  not  look  so  well  as  when  I  last  saw  him;  is  even  more 
careless  in  his  person,  and  he  never  was  remarkable  for  neatness 
or  particularity  in  his  attire.  Some  allowance  should,  however, 
be  made  for  him  now,  as  he  is  suffering  great  distress  of  mind  on 
account  of  the  extreme  illness  of  his  favorite  and  only  sister, 
the  princess  Harieta  Nahienaena.  This  is  the  girl  of  whom 
mention  is  so  oflen  made  in  Mr.  Stewart's  journals.  She  is  said 
to  be  very  amiable  and  kind,  and  is  universally  beloved  and  re- 
spected by  her  people.  While  we  were  yet  conversing  with  the 
king,  a  messenger  came  to  say  that  she  was  worse,  and  desired  to 
see  him.  He  excused  himself  to  us  in  a  rather  flurried  and  impa- 
tient manner,  but  which  was  nevertheless  not  devoid  of  grace, 
and  we  saw  his  majesty  dart  out  of  the  door  and  run  across  the 

street  in  the  direction  of  his  sister's  house,  without  a  coat  or 

34 


200 


NARRATIVE    OF    A    JOirRNF.Y 


braces  to  his  troiiHors,  in  a  manner  n(!itlicr  vnry  dignincd  or 
kingly,  but  one  which  indicated  most  strongly  the  deep  interest 
and  attachment  with  which  ho  regards  the  lust  scion  of  his  noblo 
house.  Should  Mnrieta  die,  the  royal  Hawaiian  lino  will- bo 
broken  for  over,  tho  insignia  of  Sandwich  Island  rank  will  bo 
buried  in  her  tomb,  and  the  children  of  her  reigning  brother  will 
not  inherit  their  father's  rank.  Tho  princess  is  married  to  a 
chief  named  Lehahoku,  commonly  called  '•  young  Pitt."  She 
has  just  given  birth  to  u  child,  which  died  u  few  hours  after,  and 
she  is  now  sutfcring  from  severe  puerperal  lover.  Dr.  Rooke, 
who  attends  her,  feels  very  slight  hopes  of  her  recovery. 

4/A. — This  afternoon  Mr.  Josiah  Thompson,  Mr.  Cowio,  and 
myself,  rode  down  to  Waititi,  and  to  Diamond  Mill.  The  day  hos 
been  a  most  delightful  one,  our  horses  were  excellent,  and  we 
enjoyed  the  ride  highly.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  Waititi  district, 
we  passed  through  an  extensive  and  beautiful  cocoanut  grove, 
probably  a  mile  in  length,  by  half  a  mile  in  width. 

In  the  midst  of  this  grove,  we  came  to  a  small  group  of  native 
houses,  the  inhabitants  of  which  came  running  around  our  horses, 
the  younger  bronches,  in  a  state  of  perfect  nudity,  and  capering 
about  like  so  many  little  imps  of  darkness.  I  told  them  I  should 
like  to  have  a  couple  of  nuts  from  one  of  the  trees.  I  had  hardly 
spoken  before  two  of  them  ran  to  the  nearest,  and  commenced 
mounting,  one  each  side,  and  then,  best  fellow  reached  the  top 
soonest.  They  climbed  just  like  monkeys,  placing  their  arms 
halfway  round  the  tree,  and  their  feet  flat  against  it,  and  then 
actually  jumping  up  the  perpendicular  trunk.  The  exhibition 
was  so  exceedingly  ludicrous,  that  I  was  indulging  myself  in  a 
hearty  laughing  fit,  when  my  cachination  was  suddenly  inter- 
rupted by  two  nuts  falling  so  near  me  that  I  felt  in  some  danger  of 
having  my  brains  knocked  out.  I  suspended  my  mirth,  to  shake 
my  fist  threateningly  at  the  young  urchins,  who  immediately  slid 


^ 


ACROU  TUB  ROOKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


«67 


ficil  or 
intercHt 
IB  noblo 
will-  bo 
will  bo 
her  will 
cd  to  a 
."     She 
ftcr,  and 
.  Rooke, 

iwio,  and 
3  day  has 
t,  and  wo 
i  district, 
at  grove, 

of  native 
jr  horses, 
capering 
I  should 
ad  hardly 
mmenced 
the  top 
leir  arms 
and  then 
exhibition 
ysclf  in  a 
nly  inter- 
danger  of 
,  to  shake 
iately  slid 


^H^. 


to  tho  ground,  and  with  the  greatest  good  humor,  hold  out  thoir 
handM  to  rccoivo  a  rial  for  their  trouble. 

Tho  milk  of  tho  young  cocoanut,  when  fresh  from  tho  tree,  is 
peculiarly  delicious  and  refreshing ;  no  idea  can  bo  formed  of  its 
oxcoltcnco  by  thoso  who  have  only  tasted  the  stale  fruit  at 
home.  .  .' 

6/A. — Yesterday   the  princess   Ilaricta   died.     Scarcely  was 
tho  circumstance  known  in  the  town,  when  it  was  announced 
to  all  by  tho  most  terrific  and  distressing  crying  and  wailing 
amongst  all  ranks  and  classes  of  people.     Tho  natives,  parti- 
cularly the  women,  walked  the  streets,  weeping   bitterly  ond 
loudly,  and  real  briny  tears  wore  falling  from  their  eyes  in  plen- 
teous showers.     This  most  lugubrious  exhibition  is  common  on 
tho  occasion  of  tho  death  of  any  of  the  high  chiefs  ;  but  in  tho 
present  instance  there  is  evidently  evinced  much  real  feeling.   In 
tho  aflornoon,  Mr.  Deppe,  (a  Prussian  gentleman,)  and  myself, 
walked  to  the  king's  palace  to  see  the  mourners  who  were  col- 
lected there.     Wo  found  the  largo  enclosed  space  surrounding 
the  house,  fdled  with  natives  of  both  sexes,  to  the  number  of  per- 
haps a  thousand,  all  of  whom  were  weeping  in  their  loudest  key. 
Young,  active  men  and  women,  and  the  old  and  decrepid,  who 
had  just  strength  enough  to  crawl  to  tho  scene  of  action,  chiefs 
and  common  people,  public  functionaries  and  beggars ;  all  wero 
mingled  in  one  common  herd,  bewailing  in  chorus  their  common 
loss. 

I  observed  several  women  of  tho  higher  class  standing  in  u 
group  somewhat  apart  from  the  great  concourse,  who  appeared 
affected  in  a  peculiar  manner.  Tossing  their  arms  over  their 
heads,  and  behind  their  necks,  beating  their  breasts  violently  and 
frantically,  and  raging  with  their  voices  during  the  whole  time, 
as  though  they  were  suffering  the  most  acute  agony.  In  a  few 
minutes,  this  violent  paroxysm  would  subside,  and  then  the  poor 
creatures  would  fall  to  the  ground   exhausted  and  breathless. 


% 


268 


NARRATIVE    OF    A   JOURNEY 


AAer  about  a  minute  spent  in  total  inactivity,  and  apparent 
stupor,  the  voice  and  physical  powers  were  suddenly  recovered, 
and  the  consequence  was,  a  long  succession  of  the  most  horrid 
shrieks,  the  mouriisrs  rolling  over  and  over  uptin  the  ground, 
biting  the  ear..i,  and  sobbing  loud  enough  to  be  heard  above  the 
dreadiul  din  of  the  multituc'e.  Soon  after  this,  commenced  the 
most  disgusting  and  barbarous  part  of  the  whole  exhibition.  A 
number  of  men  and  women,  and  even  some  little  boys  and  girls, 
laid  themselves  upon  their  backs  on  the  ground,  and  a  man  ap- 
proached them  with  a  small  ivory,  or  hard  wood  wedge,  and  a 
large  oval  stone  m  his  hand.  He  commenced  his  operations 
upon  the  first  oHhn  victims,  who  was  a  fine  looking  young  man, 
by  placing  the  wedge  between  two  of  his  front  teeth,  and  striking 
it  n  hard  and  quick  blow  with  the  stone.  This  loosened  it  effec- 
tually ;  then  by  inserting  the  wedge  upon  the  opposite  side,  and 
giving  another  similar  blow,  out  flew  the  tooth  in  an  instant.  In 
this  manner,  every  person  who  was  lying  there,  lost,  some  two, 
others  three  of  his  front  teeth,  and  during  the  whole  time  the  cry- 
ing was  not  suspended  for  a  moment. 

The  question  naturally  arises  ? — Why  have  not  the  mission- 
aries, who  have  such  unbounded  influence  over  this  people,  taken 
measures  to  abolish  this  most  barbarous  and  shocking  custom  ? 
They  have,  as  I  well  know,  used  great  exertions  to  do  it  away, 
and  so  far  as  the  higher  ranks  of  society  are  concerned,  they  have 
probably  succeeded ;  but  there  are  yet,  and  will  for  some  time  be, 
hundreds  among  the  common  people  upon  whom  they  can  exert 
little  or  no  influence.  Reason  and  argument  are  thrown  away 
upon  such,  as  nothing  will  convince  them  of  the  inutility  and 
absurdity  of  co  old  and  long  established  a  custom. 

How  often,  how  very  often,  do  I  thank  Providence  in  my 
heart,  that  I  was  born  in  a  Christian  and  enlightened  country, 
free  from  the  shackles  of  barbarism,  and  under  the  influence  of 
benign  and  wholesome  laws.     It  is  a  blessing  which  those  only, 


/'• 


,"%•* 


ACnOBS   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,   ETC. 


269 


who  liftvo  witnosacd  a  diflerent  state  of  things  in  other  lands  can 
proporly  nppfoolate.  ^ 

Id^Ai— l^evernl  days  ago  Mr.  Deppc  and  myself  visited  Nuano 
vwlley,  whero  we  hired  a  native  house,  in  which  we  are  now 
living  Our  object  has  been  to  procure  birds,  plants  &c.  and  we 
hftvfl  so  ftjr  been  very  successful.  I  have  already  prepared  about 
eighty  birds  which  I  procured  here.  We  have  a  very  good  and 
eomihftixhh  cottage,  and  a  more  delightful  country  residence  I 
cortttiiily  never  saw.  The  valley  here  is  narrow,  only  about  a 
rpifirtor  of  a  mile  across,  and  the  mountains  on  either  side,  at 
UtBNt  twd  llxiusand  feet  in  height,  are  clothed  with  the  most 
bettutllbl  vof.luro.  Within  gunshot  of  our  dwelling,  there  is  a 
CftstJfldo  of  delightfully  cold  mountain  water,  which  falls  perhaps 
thirty  Coot  {  tbo  basin  below  gives  us  an  excellent  bath,  and  we  can 
tak«  a  shower  when  we  wish  it,  by  standing  under  one  of  the  jets. 
As  our  Cfitlagc  is  situated  upon  elevated  ground,  we  have  a  fine 
viow  of  tho  town  of  Honoruru,  five  miles  from  us,  as  well  as  the 
lovoly  hnrbor  and  the  shipping.  I  am  so  pleased  with  this  resi- 
dence, on  every  account,  that  I  shall  be  loath  to  leave  it ;  I  have 
oscflped  IVom  tho  bustle,  and  confusion,  and  dissipation  of  the 
town,  /Votrt  the,  at  times,  almost  insufferable  heat  which  prevails 
there,  and  am  living  exacliy  as  I  wish,  in  a  retired  and  quiet 
mannoi't  Wo  never  suffer  from  heat  here,  and  although  this  is 
tho  ritiny  season,  we  have  had,  so  far,  fine,  clear  weather. 

87/!/*.— 1  went,  this  morning,  again  to  the  palace  of  the  king, 
acectnpitnied  by  Captain  Charlton,  the  British  Consul,  to  view 
the  remains  of  the  princess.  We  saw  there  the  widowed  hus- 
band, Uovernor  Hoki,  Kanaina,  and  several  other  chiefs.  Their 
grief  appears  to  have  almost  entirely  evaporated.  The  hand  of 
time  has  had  tho  etrcct,  not  only  to  soften  down  the  pangs  of  re- 
cent sorrow,  but  even  to  render  those  who  were  but  a  few  days 
ago  unit!.;!'  its  severest  influence,  alive  to  all  the  joyousness  and 
Npriglilly  emotions  attendant  upon  a  reaction. 


# 


< 


, 

f-  .  .  ■- 

r 

''y 

270 

NABBATIVE    OF   A   JOrRNEY 

The  lea(h)n 

coffin  is  now 

enclosed  in 

one  of  wood, 

covered 

with  rich  crimson  velvet,  and 

elaborately 

studded,  and  ornament-                   | 

ed  with  brass. 

On  the  top 

is  a  brass 

plate,  with  this 

inscrip-                    1 

w 


tion : 

"  Harieta 

Nahienaena, 

22  Makahiki,  i  make 

i  detemaba,  he  30 

la,  i  ka  makahiki, 

o  ko  haku, 

1836."* 

The  coffin  rests  upon  a  trcsscl  in  the  centre  of  the  large  house, 
and  underneath  it  is  a  native  mat  of  the  finest  and  moat  delicate 
workmanship.  This  mat  is  considered  a  great  curiosity.  It  was 
made  in  the  time  of  Tamehameha,  and  was  presented  to  his 
(juecn.  The  grass  of  which  it  is  composed  is  about  the  thickness 
of  a  horse  hair,  and  the  fabric  is  soft  and  pliant  as  a  silken  cloth. 
The  coffin  is  covered  with  a  large  cloak,  made  of  the  splendid 
yellow  feathers  of  one  of  the  native  birds,  and  is  surrounded  by 
about  a  dozen  of  the  magnificent  insignia  of  royalty,  called 
kahiles.     These  kahiles  are  made  of  the  feathcrt;  of  different 


*  Harieta 

Naliienaena, 

aged  2'i  years,  died 

on  tlie  30tli  of  December, 

in  the  year  •  ' 

of  our  Lord,  • 

1836. 
This  appears  like  a  contradiction.  It  is  stated  on  tlie  coffin  plate,  that  the  prin- 
cess died  on  the  30tli  of  December,  when  it  did  not  actually  occur  until  the  5th  of 
■tanuary.  Tliis  is  accounted  for,  by  the  peculiar,  and  in  some  measure,  reasonable 
doctrine  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  that  u  person  exijeriences  two  deaths ;  one  of 
the  mind,  and  another  of  the  body.  Now  the  mind  of  the  princess  died,  i.  e.,  be- 
came dernnfred,  on  the  30tli  of  December,  although  her  body  did  not  die  until  the 
6lh  of  January. 


ACROSS    THE    BOCKV    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


371 


birds,  and  some  of  the  tail  plumes  of  the  common  dung-hill  cock, 
fastened  together  with  light  pieces  of  bamboo,  and  arranged  cylin- 
drically  on  a  long  pole.  Many  of  the  kahiles  are  as  large  in  cir- 
cumference as  a  hogshead,  and  some  few  not  thicker  than  a  man's 
leg.  Including  the  handle,  they  are,  most  of  them,  from  eighteen 
to  twenty-five  feet  in  length.  The  handle  is  composed  of  alternate 
rings  of  tortoise  shell  and  fine  ivory,  so  accurately  fitted,  and 
beautifully  polished,  as  to  appear  at  a  short  distance  like  one 
piece.  I  observed  that  one  of  these  handles  was  tipped  with  the 
bone  of  a  human  leg,  and  upon  inquiry  learned  that  it  had  be- 
longed to  one  of  the  ancient  kings.  This  was  also  finely  polished, 
and  looked  like  ivory,  but  the  joint  by  which  it  was  terminated 
had  a  rather  grim  and  ghastly  appearance.  One  of  these  kahiles 
is  of  so  ancient  a  date,  that  the  natives  have  no  tradition  respect- 
ing its  fabrication.  It  is  indeed  a  most  antiquated  looking  nfTair, 
composed  of  a  wiry  sort  of  white  feather  from  a  bird  whicli  is 
now  either  entirely  extinct,  or  which  ^ad  been  brought  from  a 
distance. 

All  these  splendid  and  costly  ornaments  will  be  buried  i;'.  'he 
tomb  of  Harieta,  where  they  will  always  remain. 

February  3d  — This  was  the  day  appointed  for  the  c?re'no/iy 
of  carrying  the  body  of  the  princess  to  the  church.  jVUer  the 
rite  was  finished,  it  was  brought  back  to  the  palace,  "ere  it  will 
remain  for  a  considerable  time,  previous  to  its  ren>oval  to  Maui. 
Yesterday  the  king  sent  invitations,  through  the  consuls,  to  all 
the  foreign  residents  and  visiters,  and  at  one  o'clock  to-day,  all 
were  assembled  at  the  palace.  The  coffin  still  remained  in  the 
situation  in  which  I  last  saw  it,  surrounded  by  the  kahiles.  The 
house  was  well  filled  by  foreigners  and  natives  of  rank,  and  the 
large  enclosure  without  was  crowded.  The  common  men  were 
variously  attired,  but  the  great  concourse  of  women  were  clothed 
in  black  from  head  to  foot.     After  we  had  waited  about  an  hour, 


# 


% 


272 


NABRATIVE   OP   A   JOUHNEY 


the  king,  and  Leicahoku,  (the  husband  of  the  deceased,)  entered. 
The  foreigners  all  uncovered  their  heads,  and  his  majesty  ac- 
knowledged the  civility  by  removing  his  own  hat,  and  making  a 
low  and  very  graceful  bow.  He  was  most  magnificently  attired 
in  a  fine  blue  regimental  coat,  richly  embroidered  with  gold  and 
silver  lace,  and  two  splendid  gold  epaulets  on  the  shoulders.  His 
pantaloons  were  of  very  delicate  white  cassimere,  embroidered 
down  the  scams  with  gold  lace,  and  from  a  crimson  sash  de- 
pended a  beautiful,  and  highly  ornamented  dress  sword,  the 
scabbard  of  which  was  of  fine  gold.  His  chapeau  bras  was  in 
keeping  with  the  rest  of  his  attire,  being  of  black  beaver,  orna- 
mented with  broad  bands  of  gold  filligrce.*  y. 

The  tout  ensemble  was  in  the  highest  degree  magnificent  and 
kingly,  ond  he  wore  the  dress  with  most  becoming  dignity.  His 
age  is  about  two  and  twenty,  his  stature  five  feet  ten,  nnd  the 
proportions  of  his  person  are  most  decidedly  and  strictly  symme- 
trical. Like  most  of  the  chiefs,  he  appears  to  be  inclining  to 
obesity,  and  will  probably  in  a  few  years  lose  much  of  the  beauty 
of  his  form.  He  is  now,  however,  one  of  the  most  graceful  and 
dignified  men  in  his  appearance  that  I  ever  beheld.  Young  Pitt 
has  a  good,  and  rather  handsome  face,  but  the  graces  of  his 
person  joar  no  comparison  with  those  of  his  brothcr-inlaw. 
His  attire  was  also  rich,  with  uniform  coat,  epaulets,  chapeau 
bras  and  sword,  and  all  the  high  chiefs  were  nearly  similarly 
habited. 

The  procession  was  headed  by  a  band  of  yery  good  music. 


: 


i4 


*  Tills  most  s|>lenili(1  nnil  appropriate  uniform  was  presented  some  years  ago  to 
tlie  king,  by  siibsuription  of  the  foreign  residents  at  Oaliti.  It  was  miidf  in  Lima, 
and  cost  ciglit  liundred  dollars  !  'I'lie  presentation  is  said  to  have  been  rather  im- 
posing. It  took  place  at  the  palace,  and  most  of  the  high  chiefs  were  present.  Mr. 
Jones  made  a  S|iecch  on  liie  oecaMion,  which  was  promptly  replied  to  by  his 
majesty. 


# 


music, 

rs  ago  to 
I  in  Lima, 
Ulier  im- 
eiit.  Mr. 
Ilo  l>y  his 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOCNTAINS,  ETC. 


273 


most  of  the  perfortners  being  negroes.  Next  followed  the 
missionaries  in  double  file  ;  then  the  hearse,  which  was  a  small 
plain  cart,  drawn  by  about  twenty  natives.  Next  came  the  king, 
who  walked  immediately  behind  the  coffin ;  he  was  followed 
closely  by  young  Pitt,  also  alone,  and  then  came  the  high  chiefs, 
men  and  women,  to  the  number  of  about  thirty,  in  double  file. 
On  either  side  of  the  hearse,  the  magnificent  kahiles  were  borne 
aloft  by  a  number  of  the  sub-chiefs,  and  favorites  of  the  royal 
household,  and  so  enormously  heavy  were  some  of  these,  par- 
ticularly when  the  wind  struck  them,  that  each  of  them  required 
the  utmost  exertion  of  four  or  five  strong  men  to  keep  it  in  a 
vertical  position.  After  the  chiefs,  followed  all  the  respectable 
foreigners,  two  and  two,  headed  by  the  consuls,  to  the  number  of 
perhaps  a  hundred  ;  then  a  long  line  of  females,  all  habited  in 
deep  black,  and  the  roar  was  brought  up  by  a  motley  throng  of 
all  denominations,  and  in  every  variety  of  costume.  From  the 
head  of  the  processionj  nearly  to  the  foot  on  each  side,  walked 
the  king's  guards  in  Indian  file.  They  were  dressed  in  a  com- 
plete suit  of  white,  with  red  and  blue  cuffs  to  their  jackets,  and 
every  man  carried  his  musket  reversed.  When  the  lino  was 
formed,  the  band  played  a  solemn  dead  march,  and  the  proces- 
sion moved  toward  the  native  church  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town. 
During  the  v  I i.ole  distance,  about  a  mile,  the  ground  had  been 
strewn  with  fresh  grass,  forming  a  pleasant  carpet,  and  prevent- 
ing, in  a  great  measure,  the  rising  of  clouds  of  dust,  which  would 
otherwise  have  been  very  uncomfortable. 

The  whole  pageant  was  "  got  up"  with  the  greatest  splendor 
and  was  conducted  with  singular  order  and  regularity,  nothing 
occurring  which  in  the  slightest  degree  tended  to  produce  con- 
fusion. 

When  the  procession  arrived  at  the  church,  the  music  ceased  ; 
a  large  bell  which  hangs  in  the  area,  was  tolled  every  ten  se- 
conds, and  the  whole  company  entered  the  house  and  sought 

35 


%' 


274 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


their  scats.  The  bier  was  placed  on  the  ground  oppottito  tho 
pulpit,  the  king  and  the  other  chiefs  sitting  by  the  side  of  it,  and 
the  bearers  lineeiing  beneath  the  cart.  The  service  vim  oporicd 
by  an  address  in  the  native  language  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Binglmin ; 
this  was  followed  by  hymns,  short  addresses,  and  prayers  alter- 
nately, by  several  other  missionaries  who  were  present.  At  Hio 
conclusion  of  the  service,  which  occupied  about  one  and  a  half 
hours,  the  procession  again  formed,  and  returned  in  the  unxm 
order  to  the  palace,  when,  after  a  short  prayer,  in  t!  ;  native  luij. 
guage,  from  Mr.  Bingham,  the  cavalcade  dispersed. 


ACROSi   Tim    ROOKV    MflVNTAINS,  RTC. 


275 


4 


CHAPTKtt  XVII. 

Embarkation  for  a  tour  qftht  Ulundi^tMiilna—ForU—Ijahainaluna—Mis. 
sioiiavies  qf  Maui— High  tehmil—Pragi'tn  tf  the  pupili—Karakakua  bay— 
Kairua—Cook't  rock~'r»v»rtini;t  nf  the  native*  for  his  memory— Cook's 
monument— Jiiids — KawiUhae—Vuliissat  mountains— JMrs.  Young— J/eiau,  or 
native  temple — Human  aar.vlJicii»—Murut—.tteatltenish  riles — A  cargo  of  cat- 
tle—Unsavory  practice  qf  the  natlv$  womm—lhparture  from  Oahu — «?  sail 
by  moonlight— Dean's  Island-^Jl  "  eomptaitant"— Arrival  at  Tahiti— J^ative 
pilot— Papeeti  bay— Jlppiuvunee  iiflh»  shore— Visit  from  foreigners — ^  ram- 
ble on  shore — Orange  groves,  i^c,—^  young  native  songster— Visit  to  the 
queen— Mr.  PritcharJ,  the  mliitonury—J^ative  service — The  chapel—^ 
bedridden  Tahaitian—Junglf  foit'ls—  tanvg  the  harbor — Dangerous  naviga- 
tion— ^  uarroiu  escape— ,>l  shlimvH'k, 

9th. — Mr.  French  kiniUy  ollhrnil  mo  a  passage  in  his  brig 
Diana,  Captain  Hinckley,  to  mukn  n  whort  tour  oi"  the  islands. 
The  object  of  the  trip  is  to  carry  lutnbur  to  several  of  the  ports, 
to  trade  with  the  nativon,  and  to  bring  to  Oahu  a  cargo  of  live 
stock,  cattle,  &c.  The  timo  ullowod  will  bo  so  short  that  I  shall 
probably  not  bo  able  to  do  inuuli  in  my  vocation,  but  I  shall  at 
least  be  furnished  with  im  opportunity  of  visiting  several  islands, 
and  as  we  have  pleasant  coniptmion«  as  passengers,  besides  our 
agreeable  and  accomplished  captttiti,  we  anticipate  a  delightful 
trip. 

We  stood  out  of  the  harbor  in  iho  nllcrnoon,  and  the  next 
evening  made  Maui,  but  hh  wu  cttmn  under  the  land  it  fell  cairn, 
with  a  heavy  ground  swell,  and  m<  were  tdssing  about  mosa  un- 
comfortably the  whole  nighl. 


fiyl^'  -^^^ 


m:- 


276 


NARRATIVB   OF   A   JOURNEY 


lAth. — Yesterday  we  made  Maui  again,  after  having  been 
cruising  around  the  islands  at  the  mercy  of  contrary  winds,  since 
Friday.  Several  of  our  passengers  have  been  constantly  sea- 
sick, and  our  anticipated  pleasure  has  been  thus  very  much  les- 
sened. 

When  I  rose  this  morning,  we  were  off  the  pretty  village  of 
Lahaina,  and  in  about  two  hours  after,  we  dropped  our  anchor 
within  half  a  mile. 

While  the  ship's  people  were  engaged  in  discharging  cargo, 
Mr.  Paty,  (one  of  our  passsengers,)  and  myself  went  ashore  to 
see  the  town.  The  village  is  one  of  the  prettiest  I  have  seen : 
many  of  the  houses  are  built  of  stone,  handsomely  whitewashed, 
and,  as  at  Honoruru,  a  very  picturesque  looking  fort  frowns  upon 
you  as  you  approach  the  anchorage.  These  forts,  although  they 
add  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  the  harbors  in  which  they  are 
situated,  yet  appear  to  me  to  be  better  calculated  for  show  than 
service,  as  in  case  of  an  attack  from  the  sea,  they  could  not  act 
efficiently,  not  being  provided  with  bastions;  and  in  addition  to 
this,  they  are  built  in  such  a  loose  and  unsubstantial  manner, 
that  the  very  means  of  defence  would  be  more  fatal  than  even 
the  fire  of  an  enemy.  A  cannonading  from  the  fort,  if  long 
persisted  in,  would  almost  certamly  level  the  walls  with  the 
ground. 

The  houses,  composing  the  village  of  Lahaina,  are,  many  of  them, ' 
so  obscured  bycocoanut  andkou  trees,  (Cordiase6es/ena,)  that  you 
cannot  see  the  whole  of  the  town  from  any  single  point  of  view, 
even  from  the  offing.  On  a  high  hill,  two  miles  back  of  the  town, 
stands  another  village,  called  Lahainaluna,  (or  upper  Lahaina,) 
composed ;  itirely  of  white  stone  houses.  It  is  here  that  the  mission- 
aries chiefly  reside.  The  high  school  here  is  a  large  building 
of  stone,  thatched  with  grass,  and  stands  on  an  elevated  piece  i^t' 
ground,  so  as  to  be  distinctly  seen  some  miles  out  at  sea.  I 
called,  with  Mr.  Paty,  upon  Mr.  Andrews,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter 


!i: 


ACB088   THE    BOCKV   MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


277 


of  introduction  from  the  Rev.  Mr.  Dieill,  and  hero  I  met  several 
other  missionaries,  Mr.  Baldwin,  Mr.  Rogers,  and  Mr.  Dibble. 
These  gentlemen  arc  all  more  or  less  concerned  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  high  school,  but  Mr.  Andrews  is  the  principal.  It 
was  commenced  by  him  in  the  year  1831.  For  some  time  it 
was  held  under  a  simple  ranai,  or  shed,  made  of  grass,  and 
since  then  it  has  gone  on  increasing  and  improving  with  a  ra> 
pidity  almost  unprecedented.  It  now  consists  of  about  seventy* 
five  scholars,  chiefly  boys,  and  the  improvement  of  many  of  them 
is  surprising.  From  all  that  I  can  learn,  (for  the  school  ia  at 
present  closed,  and  I  have  not  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
pupils,)  the  advancement  manifested  by  them  is  fully  equal,  in 
every  respect,  to  those  of  similar  seminaries  in  our  own  country. 
Attached  to  this  branch  of  the  mission  is  a  printing  office,  in 
which  the  operatives  are  natives,  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  Rogers.  Mr.  Andrews  showed  us  impressions  of  maps  of 
diflerent  parts  of  the  world,  which  have  been  engraved  on  copper 
by  the  pupils.  These  efforts  are  exceedingly  creditable,  not  only 
to  the  boys  themselves,  but  to  their  tutors,  showing  the  untiring 
perseverance  with  which  they  must  have  labored,  especially  as 
none  of  them  had  ever  before  seen  the  operation  performed.  Mr. 
Andrews  is  a  very  indefatigable  and  most  superior  man,  as  his 
works  abundantly  testify.  Contending,  as  he  constantly  is, 
against  indisposition,  he  attends  most  diligently  and  faithfully  to 
the  peculiarly  arduous  duties  of  the  school,  and  during  the  very 
few  hours  of  relaxation  which  each  day  affords,  he  is  busily  en- 
gaged in  writing  for  the  benefit  of  the  mission,  and  its  objects, 
He  is  the  author  of  "  A  Vocabulary  of  the  Hawaiian  Language," 
published  at  these  islands  some  years  since,  and  he  is  now  eoi. 
ployed  on  a  new  and  much  enlarged  edition  of  the  same  work. 
On  the  morning  of  the  17th,  we  made  the  island  of  Hawaii,  and, 
approaching  with  a  free  wind,  soon  let  go  our  anchor  in  the  bay 
of  Kardkakva,     The  land  here  is  composed  almost  entirely  of 


278 


NARRATIVE   OF    A   JOVRNKY 


(I 


'**'""^i  tj: 


rough  and  irregular  mnsses  of  lava,  but  towards  the  sununit  of 
the  hills,  as  in  Oaliu,  vegetation  is  abuudnnt.  The  slioro,  tor 
miles,  in  both  directions,  is  sprinkled  with  the  little  sylvan  look- 
ing hamlets  of  this  country,  and  they  arc  somotimea  so  thickly 
grouped  together,  us  to  form  the  most  picturesque  and  bc'iitiful 
villager.  On  the  hill  fronting  the  bay  is  one  of  these,  at  which 
the  missionary,  Mr.  Forbes,  resides,  iind  about  eighteen  miles 
from  this,  there  is  a  considerable  town  called  Kairua,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  chief,  John  Adams,  governor  of  Hawaii.  In  the 
afternoon  Mr.  Paty  and  myself  went  on  shore,  chiefly  for  the 
purpose  of  seeing  the  spot  on  which  Captain  Cook  was  killed,  in 
the  year  1779. 

When  we  made  this  inquiry  after  we  landed,  a  number  of  na- 
tives ran  to  the  beach,  and  pointed  out  to  us  the  exact  spot  whero 
the  gallant  mariner  received  his  death  blow.  I  need  not  attempt 
to  describe,  for  my  sisters  can  in  a  measure  understand  the  emo- 
tion  with  which  I  viewed  the  rock  on  which  this  brave  and  excel- 
lent man  ofiorod  up  his  life  in  the  service  of  his  country.  I  had 
road  the  voyn^^os  of  Cook,  with  great  interest,  when  I  was  a 
chill';  I  had  pi  ndercd  over  his  dangers,  his  magnificent  dis- 
coveries, the  intense  excitement  of  his  life,  and  his  premature 
and  violent  death,  but  if  at  that  time  any  one  had  told  me  that  I 
should  ever  visit  the  scene  of  his  discoveries,  and  stand  upon  the 
identical  rock  which  was  pressed  by  his  bleeding  bosom,  I  should 
have  smiled  at  it  as  too  chimerical  for  belief;  here  I  am, 
however,  although  at  times  I  can  scarcely  realize  the  possibility 
of  it. 

The  rock  is  somewhat  isolated,  and  at  high  tide  the  water 
breaks  over  its  summit.  It  is  said  to  be  at  present  not  one- 
fourth  its  original  size,  as  almost  every  visiter,  for  a  number 
of  years,  has  been  in  the  habit  of  carrying  away  a  fragment  of 
it  as  a  relic.  A  French  man-of-war,  which  was  lately  here,  is 
said  to  have  taken  off  about  a  ton  of  it ;  and  some  Spaniards, 


ACR088   TIIR    ROOKY    MOVNTAINH,  KTC. 


279 


B  sununit  of 
a  s'aoro,  for 
lylvan  look- 
I  so  thickly 
nd  bf.iMtiiul 
sc,  at  which 
;htccn  milea 
ua,  the  rcsi- 
lii.  In  tho 
iefly  for  the 
as  killed,  in 

mher  of  na- 
;t  spot  where 
1  not  attempt 
ind  the  emo- 
e  and  excel- 
itry.  I  had 
ion  I  was  a 
nificcnt  dis- 
s  premature 
d  me  that  I 
nd  upon  the 
om,  I  should 
here  I  am, 
possibility 

3  the  water 
at  not  one- 
r  a  number 
fragment  of 
tely  hern,  is 
Spaniards, 


who  visifr'd  tho  island  several  years  since,  not  only  took  speci- 
mens of  the  rock,  but  tho  whole  ship's  company  knelt  upon  it, 
and  oflbrcd  up  a  prayer  for  the  repose  of  the  hero's  soul. 

There  is  perhaps  no  one  unfortunate  circumstance  connected 
with  foreigners,  that  has  ever  occurred  lierc,  which  tho  natives 
of  these  islands  so  deeply  regret,  as  the  death  of  Cook.  They 
all  speak  of  it  as  a  lamentable  event,  ond  sonif  of  the  elder  of 
them  are  snid  even  to  shed  tears  when  the  subject  is  mentioned. 
They  have  canonized  him,  and  he  is  universally  kn  by  the 
title  of  "  Oiono,"  a  particular  deity.  ^ 

Ibth. — This  morning  I  met  Mr.  Forbes,  th(!  missionary  of  this 
station,  at  the  lower  village,  and  allcr  delivering  to  him  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Dioill,  accompanied  him  to  his  house  on  the  hill,  a  dis- 
tance of  three  miles.  At  about  one  mile  from  the  shore  on  tho 
hill  is  a  monument,  erected  in  1825  by  Lord  Byron,  Captain  of 
his  Britannic  majesty's  frigate  "  Blond,"  to  the  memory  of  Captain 
Cook.  It  consists  of  a  simple  wall  of  lava  about  five  feet  high, 
embracing  a  square  of  twenty  feet,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
cedar  post,  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  near  the  top  a  copper 
plate,  with  this  inscription: 

"  In  memory 

of 

Captain  James  Cook,  R.  N., 

Who  discovered   these  Islands, 

in  the  year  of  our  Lord, 

1778. 

This  humble  monument  is  erected 

by  his  fellow  countrymen, 

in  the  year  of  our  Lord, 

1825." 

This  post  is  completely  covered  with  the  initials  of  persons 
who  have  from  time  to  time  visited  the  spot,  chiefly  the  masters. 


<^, 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)873-4503 


^ 


^io 


280 


NABRATIVB   OF   A   JOURNEY 


officers,  and  crews  of  vessels,  and  among  them  I  noticed  the 
well  known  name  of  *'  Coffin,  Nantucket." 

2Qth. — Mr.  Paty  and  myself  spent  the  day  in  traversing  the 
extensive  forests  of  this  island,  in  search  of  birds,  but  with  very 
little  success.  The  walking  was  extremely  difficult,  and  some- 
times dangerous,  in  consequence  of  a  thick  undergrowth  of 
bushes,  intermixed  with  large  masses  of  rough,  porous  lava. 
There  is  here  a  small  species  of  crow,  said  to  be  numerous  at 
times,  but  we  did  not  see  any,  as,  in  consequence  of  a  long 
drought,  they,  as  well  as  most  other  birds,  have  retired  back  into 
the  mountains  to  procure  water.  We  returned  to  Mr.  Forbes' 
house  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  him  preparing  his  baggage, 
&c.,  for  a  passage  to  Oahu  in  our  brig.  He  takes  his  wife  and 
two  children  with  him.  -^:\  • 

22(2. — ^We  sailed  out  of  Karakakua  last  evening  with  the  periodical 
land  breeze,  and  this  morning,  at  9  o'clock,  anchored  oSKawaihae. 
This  is  a  barren  and  most  unattractive  looking  place,  a  rambling 
sort  of  village,  containing  about  fifty  houses,  but  no  vegetation 
except  a  few  scattered  cocoanuts,  and  an  occasional  kou,  and 
tutui  tree.  The  soil  is  composed  entirely  of  volcanic  earth,  or 
the  pulverization  of  lava  and  basalt.  I  observed  none  of  the 
handsome  taro  patches  here  that  form  such  a  relief  to  the  eye 
when  scanning  this  rugged  country  in  other  places.  From  our 
anchorage  we  have  a  view  of  several  of  the  colossal  mountains 
and  peaks  of  this  island,  among  which  the  majestic  point  of 
Mauna  kea  stands  pre-eminent.  I  have  not  yet  seen  Mauna  roa, 
except  from  a  considerable  distance  at  sea,  and  I  suppose  that 
now  the  gratification  of  a  nearer  view  will  not  be  afforded  me. 
I  cannot  too  much  regret  that  I  have  had  no  opportunity  of  visit* 
ing  this  celebrated  and  stupendous  volcano. 

23d. — Yesterday  morning  I  went  on  shore  with  Captain 
Hinckley  and  others,  and  called  upon  Mrs.  Young,  widow  of  the 
late  John  Young,  the  oldest  foreign  resident  of  the  Sandwich 


ACROSS  THK  ROOKY   NOVNTAINI,  MTO. 


281 


Captain 
I  of  the 
idwich 


Islands.  He  came  hither  in  the  year  17^9,  remaining  until  his 
death,  which  took  place  about  a  yenr  ngo,  in  his  00th  year. 
Mrs.  Young  is  a  sister  of  old  king  Tnrnnhamehn,  and  is  now 
probably  sixty  years  of  age,  4  very  plouitnnt  and  lady>like  old 
woman. 

In  the  afternoon  we  visited  a  largo  heiau,  or  temple,  in  the 
neighborhood.  This  temple,  (which  of  courne  has  not  been  used 
as  such  since  the  abolition  of  idolatry)  wnit  built  in  the  early  part 
of  the  reign  of  Tamehameha  ;  In  it  wero  deposited  the  gods  of 
wood  and  stone,  which  the  nativoa  worshipped,  and  at  regular 
periods,  a  human  victim  was  oflbred  Ri  n  HacriAce  to  their  ima- 
ginary deity.  The  victims  consisted  chiefly  of  convicts,  or  those 
who  had  been  guilty  of  some  misdemeanor,  but  whenever  the 
stock  commonly  kept  on  hand,  failed,  (which  not  unOequently 
happened,)  the  authorities  rarely  scrupled  to  supply  the  deficiency, 
either  by  forcing  the  common  people  to  commit  crimes  worthy  of 
the  punishment,  or  by  entrapping  them  into  a  eonfossion  of  some 
petty  transgression. 

It  was  also  a  common  practice  to  sneriflco  a  victim  on  the 
death  of  any  of  the  higher  chiefs,  to  propitiate  the  favor  of  the 
idol  toward  the  departed.  At  such  times  thoy  were  even  less 
scrupulous  than  ordinary ;  a  victim  mu»t  be  procured  for  the  re- 
pose of  the  troubled  spirit,  and  it  was  therefore  fVequently  made 
an  excuse  for  the  most  open  and  cruel  injustice. 

The  heiau  is  built  of  stones  laid  together,  enclosing  a  square 

of  about  two  hundred  feet.    The  walls  nro  thirty  feet  high,  and 

about  sixteen  feet  thick  at  the  base,  from  which  they  gradually 

taper  to  the  top,  where  they  are  about  four  feet  across.     In  the 

centre,  is  a  platform  of  smooth  stones,  earellilly  laid  together, 

but  without  any  previous  preparation,  raised  to  within  ten  feet  of 

the  top  of  the  wall.     It  was  on  this  platlbrm  that  the  victims 

were  sacrificed,  the  gods  standing  around  outside  in  niches  made 

for  their  accommodation. 

36 


/ 


% 


389 


NARRATIVE  Of  A  JOURNEY 


There  is,  near  the  heiau,  another  very  similar,  though 
smaller  edifice  of  stone,  called  a  tM»rau  This  was  used  for 
nearly  similar  purposes,  and,  in  addition,  it  was  the  place  to 
which  the  bodies  of  the  dead  chiefs  were  carried,  previous  to  in- 
terment. Ailer  lying  here  in  state  for  a  longer,  or  shorter  time, 
according  to  the  grade  of  rank  held  by  the  deceased,  the  flesh 
was  stripped  from  the  bones,  and  buried  in  the  sea ;  the  bones 
were  then  taken  and  deposited  in  caves,  or  subterranean  vaults, 
which  concluded  the  ceremony.  On  Oahu,  near  Diamond  hill, 
in  the  district  of  Waititi,  are  several  of  these  morais,  but  they 
have  gone  to  decay,  and  are  not  so  perfect  as  the  above  men- 
tioned  one. 

24</«. — The  ship's  people  have  been  engaged  the  whole  day 
in  taking  cattle  on  board,  and  we  are  now  deep  in  the  water, 
having  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  head  stowed  under 
the  hatches.  These  cattle  are  procured  wild,  on  the  island,  by 
Spaniards,  who  live  here  for  the  purpose.  They  take  them  by  means 
of  lassos,  and  display  great  dexterity  in  the  business.  This  ope- 
ration has  been  so  oden  described,  that  I  need  not  repeat  it  here, 
suffice  it  to  say,  that  all  the  bullocks  on  board  have  been  taken 
expressly  for  us,  by  three  Spaniards,  since  our  arrival  here  on 
Wednesday, 

VSih. — We  were  under  way  at  daylight  this  morning,  bound 
for  Oahu.  We  passed,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  the  islands  of 
Mavxy  Kaawalawi,  Ranai,  Morokai,  and  Morokini.  The  wea- 
ther was  rough,  and  the  sea  high,  and  as  usual,  most  of  our  pas- 
sengers have  been  suffering  from  sea  sickness,  and  at  times  the 
scene  on  the  quarter  dock  is  quite  distressing. 

Our  vessel  is  now  literally  stowed  AiIl,  so  much  so  as  to  be 
somewhat  unpleasant  for  passengers.  All  forward  of  the  main- 
mast, both  above  and  below,  is  crowded  with  cattle ;  the  'tween* 
decks  are  stowed  with  hides,  and  the  quarter  deck  with  passen- 
gers of  all  colors,  from  the  fair  skinned  European,  to  the  deep 


^■^' 


>-. 


*., 


ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  HOVMTAINS,  ETC.        283 

copper-colored  native,  not  omitting  the  intermediate  grade  of  hali 
castes.  Men,  women,  and  children,  of  various  families,  are  all 
huddled  together  in  a  mass,  lolling  about,  talking  and  smoking 
during  the  day,  and  sleeping  and  grunting  like  swine  at  night. 
The  effluvia  arising  from  the  mass  of  native  bodies,  during  a 
8till,warm  evening,  is  not  comparable  to  otto  of  roses,  and  I  have 
oHen  been  compelled  to  forego  the  pleasure  of  a  nocturnal  lounge 
on  deck,  and  dive  to  the  cabin  for  purer  air.  This  effluvia  is 
owing  to  a  common  habit  among  these  people,  and  particularly 
of  the  women,  of  anointing  the  hair  and  body  with  cocoanut  oil. 
The  oil,  in  a  recent  state,  possesses  an  aromatic,  and  rather 
agreeable  odor,  but  when  allowed  to  become  rancid,  it  is  most 
insufferably  rank  and  disgusting.  When  in  this  rancid  state,  its 
cosmetic  properties  are  supposed  to  be  improved,  and  it  is  then 
applied  in  large  quantities  to  the  whole  person.  Were  it  not  for 
this  disagreeable  and  unsavory  practice,  the  women  here  would 
be  well  calculated  to  please  the  taste  of  a  stranger,  as  many  of 
them  are  truly  handsome,  and  remarkably  graceful  in  their 
deportment.  I  believe  that  most  of  those  who  are  married  to  the 
foreigners  have  given  up  this  disgusting  practice. 

On  the  27th  we  anchored  in  the  harbor  of  Oahu,  and  from 
this  time,  until  the  16th  of  March,  I  was  busily  engaged  in  pack- 
ing my  multifarious  collections,  making  calls  upon  my  friends, 
&c.,  preparatory  to  embarking  for  Valparaiso,  via  Tahiti,  in 
the  ship  Europa,  Captain  Shaw,  of  this  port. 

I  have  now  been  here  nearly  three  months ;  much  longer  than 
I  expected  to  have  been  detained.  My  time  has  been  employed 
chiefly  in  pursuing  my  scientific  avocations,  collecting  specimens, 
&c.,  in  which  I  have  been  us  successful  as  I  anticipated.  In 
this  pursuit  I  have  received  much  and  very  steady  assistance 
from  many  of  the  resident  foreigners,  and,  as  a  parting  word,  I 
wish  them  to  accept  my  most  unfeigned  thanks,  both  for  this  and  for 
the  uniform  hospitality  and  kindness  with  which  they  have  treated 


y«^ 


B> 


284 


ITAHRATIVE   OF   A   JOrRNET 


me.  To  J.  C.  Jones,  Esq., — the  American  consul, — my  acknow- 
ledgements are  particularly  due.  I  shall  always  remember,  with 
gratitude,  the  many  favors  he  has  conferred  upon  me. 

18/A. — ^We  cleared  Oahu  yesterday,  and  this  evening,  are 
sailing  along  delightfully  before  an  eight  knot  breeze.  I  think 
that  of  all  enjoyments  I  have  ever  experienced  since  I  became  a 
dweller  in  distant  lands,  there  is  none  that  has  ever  excited  in  me 
such  a  thrill  of  delight  and  pleasure,  as  an  evening  sail  upon  a 
moon-lit  soa.  I  can  hang  for  hours  over  the  gunwale,  as  the 
ship  ploughs  the  deep  blue  waters ;  I  gaze  upon  the  lovely  moon, 
and  turn  my  face  towards  my  father-land,  and  then,  oh  then,  do 
I  fancy  I  can  see  my  quiet,  peaceful  home,  and  commune  with 
the  loved  objects  there !  All,  all  rise  before  me  with  a  distinctness 
at  times  almost  startling.  I  see  my  excellent  and  afiectionate 
father,  my  beloved  and  tender  mother,  my  dear  sisters,  brothers, 
all  whom  I  love,  and  I  think  I  can  see  them  beckoning  to  the 
wanderer,  and  entreating  him  to  turn  his  footsteps  homeward. 
These  images  have  risen  before  me,  this  evening,  with  uncom- 
mon vividness.  It  is  now  eight  bells  in  the  middle  watch ;  the 
officer  is  pacing  the  quarter  deck,  muffled  in  his  large  pea 
jacket,  the  helmsman  stands  by  the  wheel,  the  drowsy  watch 
are  lolling  on  the  forecastle,  and  all  else  are  asleep.  But  I  can- 
not sleep,  nor  would  I  if  I  could,  on  such  a  glorious  night  as 
this.  -  '-   .  ■  ^  .  .  J  ;    .    1 

April  Ist. — Nothing  important  has  occurred  to  vary  the  mo- 
notony of  a  sea  voyage.  We  have  generally  been  favored  with 
good  breezes,  though  the  sea  has  been  mostly  rough.  On 
Thursday  last,  we  crossed  the  line,  and  our  latitude  is  now  3°  52' 
south. 

8th. — Yesterday  morning  at  10  o'clock,  «  Zand,  ho  /"  was  sung 
out  by  a  man  at  the  mast  head,  and  we  ascertained  it  to  be 
Dean's  island,  distant  about  fifteen  miles.  We  had  a  fine  seven 
knot  breeze,  and  we  rapidly  approached,  and  soon  passed  it 


f. 


ACROSS   THB   ROCKY   HOVMTAIHS,  ETC. 


285 


within  five  miles.  This  is  a  very  long,  low  island,  profusely  co- 
vered with  vegetation,  very  undulating,  and  with  a  fine  sand 
l)each  surrounding  it,  upon  which  the  surf  breaks  furiously.  It 
is  said  to  be  sparsely  inhabited  by  people  of  a  very  wild  and 
unsocial  nature.  Ships  rarely,  if  ever,  touch  here,  as  the  island 
produces  Quthing  to  tempt  the  cupidity  of  our  mariners.  In  the 
evening  we  had  a  heavy  squall,  with  rain,  and  incessant  and 
very  vivid  lightning.  We  shortened  sail  immediately,  and  lay 
to,  under  a  double  reefed  maintopsail  and  reefed  foresail,  for 
about  an  hour,  when  the  gale  subsided,  and  a  dead  calm  of  about 
the  same  duration  succeeded.  Duriiig  the  storm,  we  observed  a 
little  speck  of  brilliant  light,  like  a  star,  resting  upon  the  main 
truck  or  top  of  the  mainmast.  In  a  few  minutes  af\er,  a  similar 
light  appeared  upon  the  summits  of  both  the  other  masts,  and 
continued  visible  for  about  an  hour.  This  is  what  sailors  call  a 
"  cotnplaiaant"  and  is  of  course  occasioned  by  an  excess  of  elec- 
tricity in  the  atmosphere.  I  -   . 

In  the  afternoon  we  made  Tahiti,  (or  Otaheite,)  and  the  next 
morning  approached  to  within  two  miles  of  it,  brought  our  vessel 
to,  in  a  fine  breeze,  and  hoisted  our  signal  for  a  pilot.  After 
waiting  about  two  hours,  a  native,  who  spoke  English  well,  board- 
ed us  in  a  whale  boat,  and  announced  himself  as  authorized  pilot 
of  the  port.  The  charge  of  the  vessel  was  of  course  given  into 
his  hands,  and  in  another  hour  we  were  riding  at  anchor  in  a 
beautiful,  and  very  safe  harbor.  Tahiti,  like  most  islands  in 
these  seas,  is  nearly  surrounded  by  a  coral  reef,  a  narrow  passage 
only  being  found  for  entrance,  but  the  native  pilot  appears  to  be 
skilful,  and  I  am  told  that  no  accident  has  ever  happened  here. 

The  outline  of  this  island  is  exceedingly  uneven  and  rugged, 
being  formed  of  high  hills  and  valleys  alternately,  but  the  whole 
of  the  lond  is  profusely  covered  with  vegetation.  The  bay  in 
which  we  are  anchored,  (Papeete,)  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  I 
have  seen  ;  the  water  in  the  harbor  is  at  all  times  so  smooth  and 


386 


NARRATIVB  OF  A  JOVRNEY 


placid  that  no  motion  whatever  can  be  felt  on  board  a  vessel  rid- 
ing at  anchor,  and  the  shore,  fringed  with  cocoanut,  bread>fruit, 
and  banana  trees,  with  the  neat  white-washed  cottages  sprinkled 
amongst  them,  forms  a  view  at  once  striking  and  lovely.  There 
are  about  eight  whale  ships  now  in  the  port,  and  several  of  the 
masters  of  these,  as  well  as  some  resident  gentlemen  from 
the  shore,  visited  us  shortly  ailer  we  came  to  anchor.  Among 
the  latter  were  the  missionary  of  this  station,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Pritchard,  Doctor  Vaughan,  Mr.  William  Henry  and  others. 
Soon  afler,  Mr.  Skinner,  the  supercargo,  and  myself,  went  on 
shore,  and  called  upon  Mr.  Moerenhaut,  the  U.  S.  consul,  to 
whom  I  had  a  letter  of  introduction  from  Mr.  Jones  of  Oahu.  He 
received  us  kindly,  and  we  spent  an  hour  with  him  very  plea- 
santly. We  partook  of  a  good  dinner  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Henry, 
afler  which  Mr.  Skinner  and  several  other  gentlemen  with  myself, 
took  a  stroll  back  of  the  village.  If  I  was  pleased  with  the  appearance 
of  the  harbor  from  the  anchorage,  how  much  morewas  I  dalighted 
with  the  opportunity  of  rambling  in  the  interior.  Soon  after  we  left  the 
house,  we  entered  upon  an  excellent  turnpike  road  made  by  na- 
tives, chiefly  convicts,  and  extending  nearly  the  whole  circuit  of 
the  island.  This,  as  is  almost  every  part  of  this  lovely  isle,  is  a 
complete  orchard  of  the  most  delicious  of  the  tropical  fruits ; 
vast  groves  of  oranges,  lemons,  guavas,  &c.  &c.,  growing  wild, 
and  in  the  most  prodigal  profusion,  patches  of  pine  apples,  inter- 
minable forests  of  bananas,  cocoanuts,  and  VVs,*  and  all  with- 
out an  owner.  Well  may  it  be  said,  this  is  a  highly  favored, 
and  most  fruitful  land.  The  natives  do  not  require  to  cultivate 
the  earth ;  it  teems  with  every  luxury  that  their  unrophisticated 
palates  crave.  For  a  meal,  they  have  but  to  enter  the  forest,  and 
gather  a  mess  of  bread-fruit,  bananas,  and  guavas,  and  kill 
^  pig  from  the  large  droves  which  are  constantly  roaming  the 

*  This  is  the  Spotidias  dulcits  o(  botanists ;  a  large  and  wide  spreading  forest 
tree,  bearing  a  most  delicious  fruit,  somewhat  like  a  pear,  and  about  the  same 
size. 


ACROSS  TUB   ROCKY   NOUNTAIM8,  ETC. 


287 


country,  in  a  half  wild  state,  and  fattening  to  obe!=ity  on  the  ripe 
and  luscious  fruit  which  every  where  strews  the  ground. 
.  10th. — I  strolled,  during  the  whole  of  this  day,  through  the 
woods,  and  prociued  a  number  of  very  pretty  birds,  all  new  to 
me.  In  this  expedition  I  was  accompanied  by  a  stout  boy,  a 
Sandwich  Islander,  whom  I  have  engaged  as  my  servant  while  I 
remain.  This  is  a  convenience,  inasmuch  as  I  am  not  acquainted 
with  the  language  of  the  Tahitians,  but  am  sufficiently  familiar 
with  that  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  to  ask  for  whatever  I  want, 
and  understand  ordinary  conversation.  In  my  ramble  through 
the  forest  to-day,  I  was  surprised  to  hear  a  stave  of  the  old 
familiar  song,  Jim  Crow,  sung  by  a  little  puling  voice,  but 
with  singular  fidelity  of  tone  and  time,  and  after  a  short  search, 
I  perceived  a  little  naked  native  girl,  of  not  more  than  four  years 
of  age,  washing  her  only  calico  garment  in  a  creek  which  flowed 
by,  and  amusing  herself  at  her  work,  by  singing  "  wheel  about, 
and  turn  about,  and  do  just  so."  The  child  attempted  to  escape 
when  she  found  she  was  observed,  but  I  caught  her,  and  by  dint 
of  persuasion,  and  the  offer  of  a  rial,  induced  her  to  sing  several 
verses  to  me. 

I2th. — I  went,  with  the  consul,  to  the  palace  of  the  queen, 
Pomard  Wahine,  (or  the  woman  Pomar^.)  The  house  did  not 
differ,  except  in  being  somewhat  larger,  from  the  ordinary  » i;  ,ive 
habitations,  and  her  majesty  could  not  have  been  distinguisiiid. 
by  her  appearance,  from  the  poorest  woman  in  her  dominions. 
Her  complexion  is  somewhat  fairer  than  that  of  the  generality, 
and  the  expression  of  her  countenance  is  pleasing.  She  was 
dressed,  like  the  maids  of  honor  who  surrounded  her,  in  a  loose 
wrapper  of  calico,  but  without  any  kind  of  ornament  about  her 
person,  and  her  feet  were  bare.  I  was  informed  that  she  dis- 
liked all  show  and  ostentation,  and  that  she  never  donned  her 
queenly  garments  except  upon  occasions  of  state  or  high  ceremo- 
nial.   Her  husband  is  a  young  man  of  prepossessing  appearance. 


I 


98S 


NARRATIVB    OF   A   JOURNEY 


who  has  been  selected  from  the  common  ranks  for  his  good 
looks.  He  is  not  burthened  with  the  cares  of  sovereignty,  and  if 
his  wife  were  to  die,  would  return  immediately  to  the  humble 
walk  from  which  ho  has  been  elevated.  He  is  universally  known 
by  the  title  of  the  "  queen's  husband." 

15th. — This  day,  although  with  us,  in  our  ship  account,  Satur- 
day the  16th,  is  Sunday  the  16th,  at  Tahiti.  This  is  accounted 
for  by  the  fact  of  the  early  missionaries  having  made  the  passage 
around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  instead  of  Cape  Horn,  and 
making  no  allowance  for  easting,  consequently  gained  nearly  a 
day  in  their  reckoning.  The  mistake  has  never  since  been 
corrected,  and  at  the  present  time  it  would  perhaps  not  beadviailble 
to  do  so. 

I  attended,  with  most  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  place,  the  native 
church,  at  9  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Mr.  Pritchard  performed 
the  service,  and  I  was  pleased,  not  only  with  the  order  and  re- 
gularity of  the  exercises,  but  with  the  strict  and  decorous  deport- 
ment of  the  audience.  The  hymns  were  sung  with  much  taste 
and  skill,  and  many  of  the  voices,  particularly  of  the  females,  were 
sweet,  and  well  trained. 

The  chapel  is  a  very  neat  and  pretty  piece  of  workmanship, 
somewhat  in  the  style  of  those  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  but  more 
tasteful  and  lighter.  The  roof,  instead  of  a  thatch  of  grass,  is  neatly 
covered  with  the  large  leaves  of  a  species  of  Pandanus,  hand- 
somely and  ingeniously  worked  on  light  reeds,  and  the  beams  are 
wrapped,  for  about  one-fourth  of  their  length,  with  alternate  strips 
of  fine  sinnit  and  mats  of  different  colors,  and  adds  very  much  to 
the  general  appearance  of  the  building. 

20th. — I  observed  to-day  near  the  beach,  in  front  of  the  village, 
an  old,  delapidated  cottage,  the  trellised  sides  of  which  had  fallen 
to  pieces  from  decay,  and  I  was  surprised  to  hear  issue  from  it  a 
few  notes  of  a  low  and  plaintive  song.  Upon  entering,  I  saw  a 
poor  old  man  lying  on  a  board  elevated  upon  posts  about  four 


41' 


lanship, 
more 
neatly 
hand- 

ims  are 
strips 

(luch  to 


AOlOU  THB  ROOKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC.         280 

feet  from  the  ground,  with  no  bedding  cxcnpt  a  small  mat,  and 
his  long  white  hair  drooping  over  a  sqiiaru  wooden  block,  which 
was  his  only  pillow.  Attached  to  the  rude  ceiling,  were  several 
baskets  of  fruit,  oranges,  bananas,  &c.,  8us|)ended  by  cords  over 
the  old  creature's  head,  and  within  reach  of  his  hand.  I  dis- 
persed the  swine  which  were  wallowing  beneath  him  on  the  floor, 
and  spoke  to  the  old  man.  But  he  heeded  me  not.  His  dull 
eyes  seemed  fixed  upon  the  fruit  baskets  over  his  head,  and  soon 
the  low  and  melancholy  song  was  renewed,  in  a  voice  palsied 
and  broken  from  extreme  age. 

It  is  an  immemorial  custom  of  the  Tahitians,  so  to  dispose  of 
their  old  and  infirm  people.  When  a  man  becomes  too  feeble, 
from  age,  to  walk,  and  provide  for  his  own  necessities,  he  is  laid 
out  in  this  way,  and  furnished  daily  with  a  fresh  supply  of  fruit, 
and  a  calabash  of  water,  to  sustain  his  flickering  life,  until  the 
hand  of  death  relieves  his  relatives  from  further  care.  .  \,  . 
May  2d. — We  are  now  quite  ready  for  sea,  and  are  only 
waiting  a  breeze  to  go  out.  I  am  as  anxious  as  the  rest  to  re- 
embark,  for  I  have  completed  my  ornithological  collections, 
having  prepared  about  a  hundred  and  ten  birds,  most  of  them,  I 
think,  peculiar  to  this  island. 

The  common  dunghill  fowl  is  found  wild  in  the  forests  here. 
Some  of  the  residents  think  that  it  is  a  jungle  fowl,  peculiar  to 
the  country,  but,  upon  examination,  I  have  not  been  able  to  per- 
ceive any  material  diflerence  between  it  and  the  domesticated 
bird,  and  therefore  incline  to  the  belief  that  it  is  the  common 
species  returned  to  its  original  habits.  In  my  excursions,  I  have 
killed  about  a  dozen  of  them.  Their  plumage  is  generally  more 
rich  and  brilliant  than  that  of  the  domesticated  bird,  and  there  is 
not  so  much  variety  in  the  color  of  diflerent  individuals.  Their 
flesh  is  exquisite.  They  are  very  shy,  running  away  with  sin- 
gular rapidity,  and  concealing  themselves  on  the  approach  of  the 

87 


200 


If  ARHATIVR  or   A   JOirNNRV 


sportsman.  When  flushed,  they  fly  with  groat  vigor  and  swift* 
ness,  and  whore  the  trees  and  bushes  are  not  too  dense,  aflbrd  a 
vory  good  mark. 

Ath. — This  morning,  the  wind  being  fair,  we  took  the  pilot  on 
board,  and  at  8  o'clock,  stood  out.  While  in  the  middle  of  the 
passage,  the  breeze  fell  very  light,  and  our  vessel  began  to  swing 
towards  the  high  and  dangerous  reef  which  was  just  beside  us. 
For  myself,  I  gave  our  good  ship  up  for  lost,  and  was  waiting  to 
see  her  dashed  upon  the  rocks,  which  I  thought  was  inevitable. 
This  was  evidently  the  opinion  of  our  captain  also.  As  he 
stood  upon  the  rail,  looking  out  ahead,  and  casting  his  eyes 
anxiously  upon  the  sunken  rocks  under  our  quarter,  I  perceived 
his  countenance  change ;  but  still  he  was  calm,  and  gave  his 
orders,  in  obedience  to  the  signals  of  the  pilot,  with  coolness 
and  precision.  At  the  instant  when  I  fancied,  (and  I  believe  cor- 
rectly,) that  we  were  in  the  most  imminent  peril,  a  light  breeze 
struck  our  sails,  which  were  soon  filled,  and  the  ship  made  some 
headway ;  then  followed  a  strong  puff,  and  in  about  five  minutes 
more,  we  were  past  all  danger.  The  captain  sprang  down 
from  the  rail,  ejaculating,  "  thank  God,  thank  God !"  and  he 
had  reason.  A  fine  ship,  a  valuable  cargo,  and  many  lives  still 
more  voluable,  in  all  probability,  depended  upon  that  single  puff 
of  wind.  1^ 

Afler  congratulating  ourselves  upon  our  escape,  we  all  turned 
anxiously  to  look  at  the  situation  of  a  whale  ship,  which  at- 
tempted the  passage  a  few  minutes  af\er  us,  under  the  direction 
of  a  deputy  appointed  by  the  authorized  pilot.  While  in  difficulty 
ourselves,  we  had  enough  to  do  to  look  afler  our  own  ship,  but 
now  that  it  was  past,  all  our  sympathy  was  excited  for  our  fellow 
probationer.  He  appeared  to  have  more  wind  than  ourselves, 
and  was  coming  out  beautifully,  when  suddenly,  from  a  cause 
to  us  unknown,  he  sheered  towards  the  reef,  and  the  next  mo- 


ADHON  THM  NOOKY   MOUNTAIlll,  BVC. 


9U1 


ment,  to  our  oonatornatlon  and  horror,  the  fine  ihip  Mtruok,  hung 
by  her  kool,  nnd  Innnnd  over  'till  her  yards  wore  in  the  wittor. 
Sho  aoon  rightud  ngnln,  only  to  go  over  upon  tho  other  aido. 
Her  mIU  war»  ■till  mii,M\A  drow  well  with  tho  wind  which  como 
iVeahly  oflf  the  lond,  but  »ho  would  not  move  ahead,  and  kept  roll* 
ing  and  grinding  utK)ii  tho  rough  coral,  showing  her  clean  copper 
bottom  at  every  moment.  Tho  intense  and  painf\il  interest  which 
wo  took  in  tho  situntion  of  our  poor  neighbor,  would  not  suffer 
us  to  run  away  nnd  leave  him  in  his  extremity,  and  accordingly, 
Captain  Shaw,  Mr.  Hkinner,  md  myself  went  off  to  him  in  our 
boat.  When  wo  arrived,  wo  found  that  the  whalo  boats  belong' 
ing  to  all  tho  ships  in  tho  port,  had  come  out  with  their  com- 
manders and  crows  to  render  all  the  assistance  they  could  to 
their  unfortunate  brother.  Most  of  tho  boats  were  made  fust 
to  the  bowsprit  of  t)io  ship,  and  it  was  attempted  to  tow  her  off  { 
hawsers  wore  carrlr>d  out,  and  kedge  anchors,  and  every  other 
means  resorted  to  to  got  her  clear,  but  all  to  no  purpose.  The 
devoted  vessel  continued  forging  higher  and  higher  upon  the 
reef,  and  in  a  few  minutes  more  it  was  found  necessary  to  cut 
away  the  masts,  in  order  to  lighten  and  right  hnr.  I  scarcely 
ever  in  my  life  felt  ntoro  distressed  than  when  I  heard  this  order 
given ;  it  was,  however,  necessary  that  it  should  bo  done  for  th«^ 
sake  of  tho  cargo.  The  poor  ship  seemed  like  a  human  creature 
in  its  agony,  tossing  nnd  groaning  as  on  a  bed  of  pain.  A  dozen 
men  with  axes  in  thoir  hands  mounted  on  the  weather  rail,  and 
in  a  minute  tho  shrouds  nnd  back-stays  were  cut  away.  Tho 
heavy  masts  reeled  nnd  swaged  from  side  to  side,  for  an  instant, 
and  then  fell  with  a  crash  into  tho  sea.    Then  indeed 

"A  wrcek  complulc  slic  roH'd." 


One  little  hour  Itofoio,  she  had  been  a  noble  and  stately  ship  in 
all  the  majesty  of  hor  beauty,  and  contained  within  many  a 


292 


NABBATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


manly  heart  burning  with  the  spirit  of  enterprise,  or  dwelling 
with  delight  upon  the  happy  home  and  family  which  it  was  then 
about  to  seek.  How  changed  the  prospect  now  !  The  beautiful 
fabric  is  in  ruins,  and  those  who  risked  their  all  within  her,  are 
disheartened  and  undone.  The  sight  is  a  melancholy  one  indeed, 
and  I  cannot  but  think,  too,  how  nearly  this  deplorable  situation 
had  been  ours. 

When  the  masts  went  over  the  side,  the  ship  righted,  as  if  she 
felt  relieved  from  a  burthen,  but  in  a  very  short  time,  the  cry 
"  she  has  bilged,"  arose  from  her  decks,  and  the  people  were  put 
to  work  getting  out  all  the  most  valuable  private  articles,  and 
passing  them  out  of  the  cabin  windows.  Here  they  were  received 
in  boats  and  taken  on  shore.  Soon  ader  this,  we  observed,  as 
the  hull  rose  and  fell,  the  water  pouring  in  and  out  of  her  counter, 
and  very  soon  she  settled  upon  her  side,  and  lay  with  one  of  her 
gunwales  under  water,  fast  anchored  upon  the  coral  reef.' 
Nothing  more  could  be  done  for  her  safety,  and  all  the  efforts  of 
the  crew  were  directed  to  getting  out  the  cargo  of  oil.  Mean* 
while,  we  who  could  render  no  service,  concluded  to  go  ashore, 
and  as  we  were  about  pushing  off  from  tlie  wreck,  the  captain  of 
the  ship  requested  a  passage  with  us.  As  we  pulled  into  the 
harbor,  I  wished  to  say  something  by  way  of  consolation  to  the 
poor  fellow,  but  I  had  no  language  in  which  to  express  my 
feelings.  He  is  a  young  man,  only  twenty  seven-years  of  age, 
highly  spoken  offer  his  activity,  perseverance  and  honesty.  He 
has  raised  himself  from  the  lowest  station  to  a  command, 
entirely  by  his  good  conduct ;  this  is  his  first  voyage  as  master, 
and  so  far  it  had  been  remarkably  successful.  Afler  we  led  the 
ship,  he  seemed  more  calm,  but  as  we  drew  near  the  shore,  he 
trusted  himself  with  one  look  towards  his  former  home,  and  it 
was  too  much  for  his  philosophy, — he  threw  himself  back  in  the 
boat  and  wept  like  a  child !     I  could  almost  have  wept  with 


fl 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


m 


him,  for  I  appreciated  and  respected  his  feelings.  A  ship  is  a 
sailor's  home,  his  castle;  he  loves  her  next  to  his  wife  and 
family,  and  where  is  the  man  with  a  heart  in  his  bosom,  who 
can  look  upon  his  home  in  ruins,  and  not  feel  it  bleed  within  him 
at  the  sight  I 


'.  -i.r. 


294 


^^     NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 


Island  of  Eimeo—Jmm  Fernatidez—JUake  the  coast  of  Chili— nt  ihore — 
Town  of  Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition^Kindness  qf  the  foreign  resi- 
ilents,  tfc. — Preparation  bjf  the  Chilian  government  for  an  expedition 
against  Peru — Foreign  adventurers — Disaffection  of  Vidaurre  and  other 
officers  in  the  Chilian  army— Murder  qf  Sifftwr  Portales  by  the  rebels— Pre- 
paration  for  invading  the  town  of  Valparaisio— consternation  of  the  inhabi- 
tants—^ battle — dtfeat  qf  the  insurgents— Capture  and  imprisonment  of 
Vidaurre  and  seven  officers — Florine,  the  murderer — Sentence  qf  the  court 
martial — A  military  executicn — Appearance  of  the  bodies  after  death— Sail 
for  the  United  States — Cape  Horn — Pernambuco—Cape  Hentopen — AgaU— 
Arrival  at  Philadelphia,  _^      ■ 

May  5th. — This  aflernoon  we  got  under  way,  and  sailed 
along  the  north  side  of  Eimeo,  a  beautiful  island,  only  twenty 
miles  from  Tahiti,  and  the  next  morning,  (having  had  a  good 
wind  during  the  night,)  the  loom  only  of  the  land  was  seen 
astern. 

June  10th. — When  I  rose  this  morning,  the  island  of  Juan 
Fernandez  was  in  sight,  distant  about  thirty  miles.  The  outline 
is  very  uneven  and  rugged,  being  composed  of  alternate  rough 
peaks  and  vallies.  We  soon  approached  so  near  that  I  distinctly 
saw,  with  the  glass,  a  herd  of  goats  bounding  over  the  rocky 
heights.  I  felt  anxious  to  set  my  foot  on  the  shore,  hallowed  by 
the  romantic  narrative  of  De  Foe,  but  this  was  impracticable 
under  the  circumstances,  and  I  was  compelled  to  abandon  it. 
This  is  the  Botany  Bay  of  Chili ;  the  number  of  convicts  at  pre- 
sent is  about  two  hundred. 


r.M 


^ 


\t  ihore—- 
reign  resi- 
expedition 
and  other 
belt—Pre- 
'he  inhttbi- 
sonment  of 
f  the  court 
Itath—Sail 
—Agalt — 


id  sailed 

y  twenty 

a  good 

vas  seen 

of  Juan 
!  outline 
tc  rough 
listinctly 
le  rocky 
owed  by 
acticable 
ndon  it. 
at  pre- 


ACR08I  THS   BOOKV    MOVNTAINI,  MTfl. 


205 


\2th. — ^We  have  had  flne  breoaoi  lince  Saturday,  and  this 
ihorning,  at  8  o'clock,  we  mnde  the  coRit  of  Chili,  distant  about 
fifty  miles.  The  day  has  been  a  lovely,  clear  one,  so  that  we 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  land  until  evening  oloflec[.  We  were  then 
within  about  eight  miles  of  Vulparai«o  point,  and  as  it  was 
deemed  unsafe  to  attempt  to  run  in  during  the  dusk,  we 
were  compelled  to  lie  to  all  night.  The  coast  here  appears 
exceedingly  bold,  with  a  very  amall  portion  of  level  beach.  In 
the  back  ground,  hills  rise  upon  hilli  to  the  far  distance,  where 
their  summits  are  crowned  by  the  snow-capt  Andes.  As  the 
sun  sank  this  evening,  and  gilded  with  his  departing  rays  the 
frozen  peaks  of  these  lofly  mountains,  the  offeot  was  truly  mag- 
nificent. 

The  hills  in  the  vicinity  of  the  ihore  appear  to  be  totally 
devoid  of  vegetation,  nor  can  the  eye  diieorn  a  single  shrub  in 
the  whole  of  the  vast  space  comprehended  within  the  range  of 
vision.  From  our  present  station,  we  can  eteo  two  flag-staffs 
erected  in  different  situations,  upon  the  topn  of  two  of  the  highest 
hills,  intended,  doubtless,  as  a  guide  for  mariners ;  and  in  one  of 
the  little  valleys,  we  observe  a  small,  but  neat  looking  village  of 
white  houses.  The  harbor  of  Valporniso  Is  deeply  embayed 
within  the  hills,  so  that  we  have  not  yet  had  a  sight  of  it. 

\^th. — Early  this  morning  wo  paisod  the  point,  and  came 
immediately  in  vie\v  of  the  town  of  Valparaiso.  The  houses 
appeared  thickly  grouped  togothor,  but  without  any  attention  to 
order  or  regularity,  and  between  these  groups,  there  oflen  inter- 
vened large  uninhabited  spaces,  producing  the  appearance,  from 
the  harbor,  of  several  towns.  Immediately  in  front  of  the  bay  ; 
and  for  the  space  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  enit  ond  west  of  it,  is 
the  principal  part  of  the  city,  the  place  of  commercial  business 
and  fashion.  Back  and  westward  of  this,  are  three  large  groups 
of  houses,  occupying  the  summits  and  sides  of  three  hills,  com- 
monly known  to  foreigners  by  the  nautical  names, /orc-f op,  main- 


206 


ITAKSATIVI  OF  A  J0I7RNET 


top,  and  miten-top.  Occasionally,  also,  a  white  cottage  is  seen  to 
peep  out  fVom  some  littlo  convenient  nook  among  tho  loftiest  hill 
behind-  ■,..,..■  v-  '■:    ■,,!■  ■;-  ■■i,.:-' -i- ■>„'!'■: '-.^-^^ 

About  half  a  milo  eastward  of  this  on  the  low  land,  is  the 
Almendral,  (almond  grove,)  so  called  from  a  great  number  of 
these  trees,  which  formerly  grew  there.  The  houses  here  are 
the  samo  in  appearance  as  tho  rest,  and  the  city  extends  in  this 
direction  for  perhaps  a  mile.  Immediately  after  we  dropped  our 
anchor,  tho  captain  of  tho  port  came  on  board  for  the  purpose 
of  examining  tho  ship's  papers.  Then  followed  the  custom- 
house officers,  who  also  made  the  requisite  investigations,  and  in 
about  an  hour  wo  were  allowed  to  go  on  shore.  We  landed  ac- 
cordingly ou  a  largo  mole  in  front  of  the  custom  house,  and  Mr. 
Skinner  and  myself  called  upon  Mr.  Chauncey,  of  the  house  of 
Alsop  &  Co.,  to  whom  wo  had  letters  from  Oahu,  and  by 
whom  we  were  politely  received.  After  sitting  about  an  hour, 
we  strolled  out  to  look  at  the  town.  Every  thing  here  is  quite 
new  to  me ;  the  stylo  of  building,  the  manner  in  which  the  streets 
are  laid  out,  tho  customs,  and  even  the  language  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. It  is  now  more  than  three  years  since  I  saw  a  town 
which  had  any  pretensions  to  civilization,  and  though  so  far  in- 
ferior in  every  respect  to  our  cities  at  home,  yet  from  my  first 
landing,  I  have  enjoyed  tho  opportunity  of  seeing  an  approximation 
to  polite  society,  generally  diflbsed.  I  do  not  mean  that  I  have 
seen  no  polite  society  since  I  left  home ;  far  from  it,  but  the  little 
which  I  have  seen  has  been  so  surrounded  by  baser  material, 
that  here,  where  civilization  predominates,  I  am  more  deeply 
impressed  with  the  contrast. 

August  nth, — Hero  a  considerable  hiatus  occurs  in  my  jour- 
nal, occasioned  by  a  severe  fit  of  illness  which  confined  me  for 
sovcrol  weeks  to  my  bed,  and  from  which  I  did  r.ot  wholly  re- 


ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


297 


cover  during  my  residence  of  two  months  in  Chili.  I  was  so 
fortunate  as  to  meet  here  a  gentleman  from  Philadelphia,  Doctor 
Thomas  S.  Page,  by  whom  I  was  assiduously  attended,  and  to 
whose  skilful  and  judicious  treatment  I  consider  myself  indebted 
for  my  recovery.  I  also  received  much  kindness  from  Captain 
B.  L.  Scott  and  his  estimable  lady,  as  well  as  from  a  number  of 
the  foreign  residents  and  British  naval  officers  in  the  port. 

The  political  affairs  of  the  country,  and  the  events  to  which 
certain  important  and  recently  adopted  measures  have  given 
rise,  are  worthy  a  slight  notice. 

An  expedition  is  about  being  fitted  out  by  this  country  against 
her  sister,  Peru.  All  the  men  of  war  belonging  to  her  navy  are 
to  be  brought  into  service,  and  before  many  weeks  there  will  be 
bloody  work  on  the  shores  of  South  America. 

The  Chilians  have  a  large  and  efficient  navy,  commanded 
chiefly  by  foreign  adventurers,  English  and  Americans.  Peru 
has  also  some  officers  of  the  same  stamp,  and  thus  brother  will 
war  against  brother;  and  for  what?  For  " filthy  lucre,"  and 
bloody  laurels,  worthy  to  decorate  the  brow  of  the  first  mur- 
derer. 

"  See  from  his  native  hills  afur, 
The  rude  HeUetian  flies  to  war:— 
Careless  for  what— for  whom  he  fights : — 
For  slaves  or  despots — wrongs  or  rights : — 
A  conqueror  oft— a  hero  never.' 
Yet  lavish  of  his  life-blood  still. 
As  if  'twere  like  his  mountain  rill, 

And  gushed  for  ever  I" 


The  ree  ons  assigned  by  the  Chilians  for  the  necessity  of  the 
contemplated  invasion,  are  manifold.  They  complain  of  aggres- 
sions and  spoliations  upon  their  subjects  and  commerce,  ill  treat- 
ment of  their  envoys,  &c.;  and  some  time  since,  a  private  citizen 

of  Callao,  upon  his  own  responsibility,  and  with  his  own  re- 

38 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY        f 

sources,  without  the  advice  of  his  government,  visited  the  island 
of  Chiloe  in  an  armed  vessel,  and  laid  it  under  a  heavy  contribu- 
tion. The  Chil^nos  considered  this  a  national  outrage,  and  the 
lire  of  jealousy  and  furious  animosity,  which  had  been  hitherto 
smothered,  burst  at  once  into  a  flame.  A  formal  declaration  of 
war  has  been  the  result,  and  it  appears  to  be  the  opinion  of  the 
most  calculating  and  discerning  foreigners  here,  that  the  Chilian 
forces  will  be  worsted  in  the  conflict.      ^     -         , 

As  might  have  been  expected,  many  of  the  subjects  of  Chili, 
and  some  influential  ones  too,  higiily  disapproved  of  the  projected 
enterprise.  Among  these,  were  a  colonel  of  the  army,  and  his 
brother,  the  commandante  of  the  Rezguardo,  named  Vidaurre, 
persons  of  the  flrst  respectability  in  the  government,  and  of  con- 
siderable influence.  These  men  openly  expressed  their  disappro- 
bation of  the  public  proceedings,  and  in  a  short  time  induced 
many  other  ofllicers  in  the  service,  as  well  as  a  considerable 
number  of  the  regular  troops,  to  join  in  a  revolt,  for  the  purpose 
of  putting  an  immediate  and  summary  end  to  an  attempt  which 
they  argued  could  not  fail  to  produce  the  most  calamitous  and 
fatal  consequences.  As  a  commencement  of  this  bold  and  some- 
what Quixotic  measure,  they  sent  an  invitation  to  a  man  high  in 
oflice  in  Valparaiso,  named  Don  Diego  Portales,  a  person  uf 
unbounded  influence,  and  indeed  the  proposer  and  prime  mover 
of  the  contemplated  expedition,  requesting  him  to  meet  the  chief 
of  the  insurgents  at  Quillota,  about  five  leagues  from  the  town,  on 
business  of  importance.  Portales,  without  the  slightest  suspicion 
of  foul  play  being  intended,  or  the  faintest  idea  of  the  meditated 
resistance  to  the  laws,  accepted  the  invitation  unhesitatingly,  and 
repaired  to  the  place  appointed,  accompanied  only  by  his  private 
secretary.  Here  he  was  met  by  Colonel  Vidaurre  alone,  who 
received  him  in  a  friendly  manner,  and  immediately  commenced 
a  conversation  relative  to  the  invasion  of  Peru.  The  colonel 
expressed  his  sentiments  freely  on  the  subject,  which  of  course 


ACROSS   THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


299 


gave  great  offence  to  Portalea,  by  whom  he  was  charged  with 
traitorous  and  treasonable  designs,  and  who  threatened  to  order 
his  arrest  immediately  on  his  return  to  Valparaiso.  This  threat 
had  been  anticipated,  and  was  the  preconcerted  signal  for  the 
appearance  of  the  troops  of  Vidaurre,  who  suddenly  rose,  like 
Clan  Alpine's  warriors,  from  the  bushes  where  they  had  been  con- 
cealed,  surrounded  and  made  prisoner  the  unfortunate  com* 
mander-in-chief,  stript  him  in  a  twinkling  of  his  arms  and  equip- 
ments, loaded  his  hands  and  legs  with  heavy  irons,  and  left  him 
in  sad  and  melancholy  musing  as  to  his  probable  fate.  In  a 
short  time,  a  small  detachment  of  the  insurgents  returned,  headed 
by  a  young  officer  named  Florine,  a  man  who  had  made  himself 
remarkable  by  several  acts  of  wanton  and  bloody  atrocity. 
Portales  felt  that  his  hour  was  come.  He  knew  that  he  need  ex- 
pect no  mercy  from  the  man  into  whose  hands  he  had  fallen. 
He  disdained  therefore  to  plead  for  himself,  but  only  requested 
that  his  secretary,  (a  young  man  belonging  to  one  of  the  first 
families  in  Chili,)  who  was  of  course  perfectly  innocent,  might  be 
suffered  to  depart  without  molestation.  This  request  the  ruffian 
said  he  could  not  grant,  but  told  them  botn  to  prepare  instantly 
for  death,  for  that  they^  had  not  five  minutes  to  live. 

After  both  the  victims  had  performed  their  devotions,  which 
they  did  in  the  most  calm  and  devout  manner,  a  signal  was  given, 
and  the  whole  detachment  fired  their  pieces  within  a  few  yards 
of  the  unhappy  prisoners.  The  young  secretary  was  instantly 
killed,  but  Portales  himself  still  stood,  being  but  slightly 
wounded  in  the  side ;  and  it  is  said  that,  in  this  most  trying  mo- 
ment, his  admirable  courage  and  self  command,  did  not  desert 
him. 

He  stood  and  looked  with  a  proud,  cold  eye  upon  his  execu- 
tioners. Not  a  man  among  them  dared  to  meet  that  glance,  but 
every  one  cast  down  his  eyes  in  admiration  and  profound  awe. 
They  stood  in  the  presence  of  a  superior  mind,  and  they  cowered 


800 


wahrative  or  a  jottrwry 


like  abject  worms  before  its  influence.  Young  Florine,  however, 
was  not  to  be  so  daunted.  Enraged  that  he  whom  he  chose  to 
consider  his  enemy,  still  survived,  he  gnashed  his  teeth  and  rush- 
ed upon  his  bound  and  defenceless  general  with  his  sword. 
Three  several  times,  did  he  pass  his  murderous  blade  clean 
through  the  body  of  Portales.  That  calm  unwavering  eye  still 
kept  its  basilisk  glance  upon  the  convulsed  features  of  the  assas- 
sin, until  with  the  third  thriist  its  lustre  was  quenched  in  death ; 
the  poor  body  which  encased  the  dauntless  soul,  quivered  in  the 
last  agony,  and  fell  a  lump  of  senseless  clay  upon  its  parent 
earth. 

These  details  were  related  by  an  eye  witness,  one  who,  although 
engaged  in  the  revolt,  opposed  with  manly  energy  the  dastardly 
and  most  atrocious  act  by  which  it  was  commenced. 

After  the  perpetration  of  this  lawless  and  high-handed  deed, 
(which  it  is  generally  believed  even  Vidaurre  himself  did  not 
sanction,  or  approve  of,)  a  pacific  negotiation  with  the  reigning 
powers  was  of  course  impossible.  All  engoged  in  the  insurrec- 
tion would  be  denounced  as  felons,  and  any  one  of  them  who 
should  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  authorities  would  inevitably  die 
the  felon's  death  ;  so  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  strengthen 
their  army  as  much  and  as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  forthwith 
attack  the  stronghold  of  the  enemies  of  misrule. 

Accordingly  the  whole  army  retired  to  a  short  distance  from 
the  scene  of  the  murder,  leaving  the  dead  bodies  on  the  spot,  and 
set  on  foot  the  most  active  measures  to  increase  the  number  of 
their  forces.  In  the  mean  time,  the  protracted  absence  of  Por- 
tales, caused  much  anxiety  among  his  friends,  several  of  whom 
knew  of  his  having  gone  to  Quillota,  and  on  the  day  following 
they  repaired  thither  in  all  haste,  where  they  found  the  corpses 
as  they  had  been  left,  and  conveyed  them  immediately  to  Valpa- 
raiso.    The  cause  and  manner  of  Portales'  death  was  at  once 


ACROSS   THE   ROCK?    M017NTAIN8,  ETC. 


SUl 


suspected,  and  naturally  induced  a  supposition  that  this  flagitious 
act  of  private  animosity  was  but  the  prelude  to  public  hostility, 
and  therefore  the  Chilian  commander  lost  no  time  in  getting  his 
regulars  and  militia  under  arms,  and  in  readiness  to  repel  the 
suspected  invasion.  On  the  day  following,  intelligence  of  the 
movements,  and  meditated  attack  of  the  rebel  army  was  received 
in  Valparaiso.  AH  was  consternation  through  the  town.  Every 
horse  that  could  be  found  was  seized  upon  for  the  use  of  the 
troops,  not  excepting  private  property  even  ;  the  merchants  scaled 
up  all  their  specie  in  boxes,  and  sent  it  on  board  the  men  of  war 
for  safe  keeping,  and  stood  ready  to  embark  themselves,  with 
their  most  valuable  effects,  in  case  of  the  success  of  the  in- 
vaders. 

The  Chilian  general  selected  an  eligible  spot  of  ground  within 
about  four  miles  of  the  town,  concealing  his  army  as  well  as  he 
could,  in  the  quebrados  or  valleys  by  which  it  was  bounded,  ond 
waited,  with  what  patience  he  might,  the  approach  of  the  enemy. 

On  the  3d  of  June,  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  Vidaurre 
came  on,  leading  his  men  quietly  and  stealthily  over  the  uneven 
ground,  and  no  doubt  thought  to  take  the  town  by  complete  sur- 
prise, and  secure  an  easy,  and,  perhaps,  bloodless  victory  over 
the  amazed  regulars.  But  he  was  most  sadly  mistaken.  As 
his  army  was  silently  and  warily  moving  down  one  of  the  abrupt 
hills,  in  a  perfectly  unprepared  state,  a  tremendous  and  most 
destructive  fire  was  suddenly  opened  upon  them  from  the  bushes 
upon  both  sides  of  the  declivity.  A  large  body  of  men  from 
one  valley  rushed  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  completely  cut  off 
their  retreat  in  the  direction  from  which  they  came ;  a  detach- 
ment from  the  opposite  valfcy  filed  off  in  front,  and  received  them 
from  the  town  side,  and  at  the  same  instant,  a  number  of  gun- 
boats, which  were  stationed  in  the  bay,  greeted  them  with  a  tre- 
mendous volley  of  grape  shot  and  musket  balls,  which  completed 


302 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOITSNEY 


the  panic  of  the  insurgent  army.  Once,  and  once  only,  did  they 
attempt  to  rally,  and  in  answer  to  the  deadly  shower  of  bullets 
which  was  mowing  down  their  ranks,  did  they  discharge  a  few 
of  their  muskets  at,  irregular  and  trembling  intervals,  but  they 
were  completely  routed;  resistance  was  utterly  vain,  and  the 
whole  mass  fled  in  the  utmost  dismay  and  consternation.  Some 
few  effected  their  escape,  but  the  greater  number  were  taken  pri- 
soners, among  whom  were  the  colonel  himself,  the  bloody  Florine, 
and  six  other  officers  of  distinction,  besides  about  twenty  subaU 
terns.  The  number  of  killed  and  wounded  I  have  not  exactly 
ascertained,  but  I  believe  it  exceeded  a  hundred. 

The  news  of  this  victory  was  of  course  most  agreeable  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  town,  (a  great  number  of  whom  witnessed  the 
combat  from  the  heights,)  and  quiet  and  security  were  immedi- 
ately  restored.  When  I  arrived,  (which  was  only  ten  days 
after,)  matters  were  in  the  most  tranquil  state.  One  day 
more  had  elapsed  than  is,  by  common  consent,  allotted  to  the 
recollection  of  affairs  of  an  unusual  character,  and  the  people 
were  beginning  to  talk  of  it  as  an  event  which  had  left  but  little 
impression  upon  the  memory. 

But  the  poor  officers  of  the  ill-fated  army  had  not  forgotten  it. 
They  were  languishing  on  board  the  Chilian  ships  of  war  in  the 
harbor,  laden  with  heavy  irons,  such  as  they  had  caused  to  be 
placed  upon  the  limbs  of  the  unfortunate  Portales ;  they  were 
stowed  away  in  the  darkest  and  most  uncomfortable  places,  and 
fed  upon  a  miserable  allowance  of  hard  bread  and  water.  Add 
to  this,  that  in  consequence  of  the  constant,  and  sometimes  severe 
motion  of  the  ships  in  this  harbor,  they  were  for  weeks  dread- 
fully sea-sick,  without  medical  advice  being  allowed  them,  and 
of  course  utterly  deprived  of  the  power  of  moving  about, 
and  thereby  diminishing  its  pangs,  and  we  can  readily  believe 
that  they  were  wretched  enough.  I  felt  a  sincere  commiseration 
for  several  of  the  officers  whoso  history  I  inquired  into,  and  par- 


ACROSS   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,  ETC. 


303 


ticiilarly  for  a  poor  Swede,  an  almott  innocent  man,  certainly 
innocent  of  any  participation  in  the  death  of  Portalcs ;  the  same 
who  related  the  interesting  particulars  of  the  murder. 

For  Florine,  I  never  felt  much  pity.  Ho  was  a  miscreant  of 
the  deepest  dye  ;  and  when  I  sow  him,  a  few  days  after  my  arri- 
val, brought  with  others  on  shore,  I  observed  that  the  people 
seemed  to  contemplate,  with  savage  pleasure,  the  haggard  and 
disease-worn  lineaments,  which  physical  suffering,  and  the 
gnawing  worm  at  his  heart,  had  rendered  hideous  and  for- 
bidding. 

A  court  martial  was  called  immediately  upon  the  capture  of 
the  prisoners,  and  after  a  tedious  and  protracted  examination  of 
some  weeks,  all  the  eight  officers  were  sentenced  to  be  publicly 
shot.  The  long,  and  most  unnecessary  delay  which  preceded 
the  condemnation,  was  a  refinement  in  cruelty,  worthy  of  the 
most  barbarous  horde  that  ever  existed,  and  sufficiently  proved 
the  savage  origin  of  the  examining  judges.  But  they  had  to  deal 
with  firm  and  bold  spirits ; — men  who  had  not  attempted  revolt 
without  calculating  the  chances  of  defeat  and  capture,  and  their 
minds  were  therefore  strung  to  meet  the  ignominious  and  painful 
death  which  they  knew  awaited  them. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  the  day  appointed  for  the  execution,  all  the 
stores  of  the  town  were  closed ;  the  streets  were  thronged  with 
people  of  both  sexes,  and  a  stranger,  suddenly  entering  the  city, 
would  have  supposed  that  some  great  national  jubilee  was  about 
to  take  place.  At  11  oVlock  in  the  morning,  the  prisoners 
were  brought  on  shore  in  boats,  accompanied  by  several  officers 
of  the  squadron,  and  a  guard  of  soldiers.  In  consequence  of 
the  severe  illness  which  most  of  them  had  so  long  suffered,  ad- 
ded to  the  cumbrous  shackles  on  their  limbs,  not  one  of  them  had 
strength  to  climb  the  short  flight  of  steps  from  the  water  to  the 
top  of  the  mole.  It  was  necessary  for  them  to  be  lifted  over  this 
impediment,  and  almost  carried  to  the  carts  which  waited  for  them 


KM 


NAKRATIVB   OF   A   JOURNKY 


in  front  oPtho  custom-houHu.  I  aaw,  by  tho  countenances  of  tlie 
condemned  men,  that  bodily  fear  or  apprehension  had  not  pro- 
duced the  illness  under  which  they  were  laboring;  it  could  bo 
accounted  for  only  by  their  rigid  confinement,  unwholesome 
living,  and  constant  sea-sickness.  They  conversed  with  tho 
cowled  and  shaven  priests  who  occupied  tho  carts  with  them  in 
a  calm,  and  even  cheerful  tone. 

Poor  fellows !  they  probably  enjoyed  the  pure  air  and  glorious 
canopy  of  heaven,  for  which,  even  though  they  heralded  their 
way  to  an  ignominious  and  violent  death,  they  were  glad  to  ex- 
change the  gloomy  horrors  of  their  prison-house  on  the  sea. 

AAer  many  delays,  which  always  occur  at  such  times,  the 
carts  moved  off,  preceded  and  followed  by  a  file  of  soldiers.  The 
streets  were  crowded  with  the  populace  of  all  ages,  sexes,  and 
conditions,  and  I,  of  course,  was  borne  on  in  tho  throng  towards 
tho  place  of  execution. 

I  never  felt  so  oppressed  with  conflicting  emotions  in  my  life. 
Pity  and  commiseration  for  tho  wretched  beings  who  were  about 
to  launch  out  upon  tho  untried  ocean  of  eternity,  admiration  for 
the  calm  and  manly  resolution  which  they  had  shown  in  this 
most  trying  hour,  anticipation  of  the  sufferings  they  were  to  en- 
dure in  undergoing  the  dreadful  sentence,  and  a  doubt,  a  strong 
and  irrepressible  doubt  of  tho  right  of  poor  fallible  mortals  to 
assume  a  power  over  the  lives  of  their  fellows,  which  should  be- 
long only  to  the  good  and  righteous  Judge  of  all.  Under  the  in- 
fluence of  the  last  conclusion,  (for  such  it  had  become,)  I  was 
*  several  times  on  the  point  of  returning  to  my  lodgings,  so  as  not 
to  sanction  by  my  presence,  an  act  which  I  could  not  approve, 
but  I  had  left  with  the  intention  of  seeing  the  end  of  the  tragedy, 
and  as  my  presence  or  absence  would  not  affect  the  event,  I  fol- 
lowed with  the  rest. 

In  the  course  of  an  hour,  the  carts  arrived  at  tho  place  of  exe- 
cution, which  was  a  large  square,  fronting  on  the  sea,  at  the  lower 


•"^ 


ADNOH  rirr,  hockv  mointaini,  rtc. 


flOO 


strong 


rxtrniriity  of  tint  city  pro(icr,  uml  upper  |)ortiou  ui'  lUn  Alnwtulrtl. 
Hero  Iho  prUoiinrit  wcro  lifted  to  the  grouitd,  thuir  coat*  and  ImU 
ritmovod,  and  thrown  in  a  hnap  together,  and  oacli  mon  placed  by 
A  Hort  u(  ■rm  chair  which  had  been  previously  providod,  the  logi 
of  which  had  bcon  driven  firmly  into  the  ground.  A  largo  body  of 
troopH,  to  (ho  nurnbnr  of  perhaps  six  hundred,  was  then  brought 
forwurdi  nnd  statlonod  around  the  square;  the  city  guardN,  on 
horseliiuik,  worn  arranged  within  these,  and  outside  tho  wholo 
open  spuiM)  wuM  crowdod  with  [icoplc,  as  well  as  tho  hoighta  ovor- 
looking  thu  spot. 

After  u  lung  and  pninilil  pnuso,  tho  culprits  worn  lentod  in  tho 
chairs,  thuir  itririM  nnd  logs  firmly  bound  to  tho  upright  pieces,  ond 
a  handkbrvhiei'tii'd  around  tho  eyes  of  each. 

From  this  moment  every  thing  was  conducted  with  thu  groat' 

est  dosputuh.     A  file  of  twclvo  men  wns  drawn  up  within  obout 

five  yards  of  tliu  victims;  tho  commanding  ofHcor  waved  his 

sword  over  his  hoad^vory  man  clapt  his  musket  to  his  ihouldor 

and  fired  n  rattling  volley  in  thevoryfiices  of  tho  poor  criminals.  It 

was  most   wrutchodly,  most  cruelly   managed.     I  had  posted 

myself  on  the  top  of  n  high  fence  near,  and  could  see  clearly 

every  thing  that  occurred.    Tho  volley  was  fired  before  even  tho 

executioners  were  prepared  ;  they  had  evidently  expected  more 

exact  and  doflnito  orders,  ond  tho  saturnine  priests  were  taken 

wholly  by  surprise,  us,  when  tho  report  of  the  muskets  broke  tho 

awfiil    siloncoi    thoy   wore  whispering    ghostly  comfort,   and 

administering  extronio  unction  to  the  unhappy  sufibrers.    As  tho 

smoke  cleared  away,  tho  terrified  padres  wore  seen  scampering 

from  tho  aroo,  and  mixing  in  the  crowd  without.     As  I  ontici- 

patedi  not  onu  of  tho  poor  wretches  was  killed.    Some  wore 

grievously  wounded,  nnd  struggling  convulsively  in  their  bonds, 

but  several  soemud  to  have  escaped  altogether.    Among  theso 

woro  tho  colotiot  nnd  young  Florine.    Tho  former  raised  his 

hand,  and  tapped  his  breunt  several  times  as  though  directing 

39 


300 


NARRATIVE    OP   A   JOURNEY 


them  where  to  fire  ;  and  Florine — the  diabolical  Florine,  smiled  in 
scorn  and  derision !  A  reserve  of  twelve  men  was  then  brought 
forward,  and  each  of  them  walked  up  to  some  one  of  the  victims, 
and  placing  his  musket  against  the  head  or  breast,  fired  at  his 
leisure.  The  first  file  had  by  this  time  reloaded,  and  they  also 
marched  up,  each  one  of  them  discharging  his  piece  with  the 
most  perfect  coolness  and  unconcern  at  those  of  the  dying  men 
who  still  struggled,  until  at  last  the  horrid  butchery  ceased  with 
the  death  of  all  the  culprits.  The  heads  lay  flaccid  and  motion- 
less upon  the  boso'ns,  and  the  thongs  being  cut  asunder,  the 
bodies  fell  heavily  to  the  ground.  The  soldiers  were  then  all 
marched  in  single  file  by  the  spot  that  they  might  look  upon  the 
remains  of  those  who  had  been  traitors  to  their  country,  and  re- 
ceive a  fearful  lesson  from  the  sight,  afler  which  the  bodies  were 
thrown  into  one  of  the  carts,  and  conveyed  through  the  streets 
towards  the  place  of  sepulture.  The  concourse  of  people  still 
followed,  and  I  several  times  observed,  when  the  cart  was  forced 
to  stop  for  a  few  minutes  by  reason  of  the  crowd,  that  when  it 
moved  on  again,  a  pool  of  dark,  frothy  blood  was  always  seen  on 
the  spot  over  which  it  had  been  delayed.  It  was  very  horrible, 
and  I  saw  more  than  one  man  shudder  as  he  looked  upon  it. 

When  the  cart  arrived  at  one  of  the  small  streets  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  city,  on  which  the  burial  ground  is  situated,  the 
bodies  were  lifted  out  by  the  arms  and  feet,  and  thrown  upon  the 
ground  with  about  as  much  care  and  tenderness  as  the  carcasses  of 
so  many  dogs !  I  felt  my  blood  boil  at  this,  but  the  Chilian  gentle- 
men who  were  present  gave  no  evidence  of  such  feeling,  "'hey 
had  been  traitors,  and  therefore  indignity  should  be  added  to 
indignity,  until  the  earth  covered  the  mutilated  remains. 

While  the  bodies  were  thus  lying,  previous  to  interment,  I  re- 
quested of  the  guard  permission  to  examine  them,  which  being 
granteii,  I  stept  out  from  the  surrounding  crowd,  which  was  kept 
back  by  the  soldiery,  and  contemplated  with  great  interest  the 


ACROSS    THE    HOCKY    MOUNTAINS,  KTC. 


307 


countenances  of  the  dead.  On  several  of  these,  the  traces  of  in- 
tense and  protracted  agony  were  frightfully  apparent.  The  face 
of  the  colonel  betrayed  no  evidence  of  suffering,  and  that  of 
young  Florine  still  wore  its  Caliban  grin  of  defiance  and  derision. 
I  turned  away  from  it  to  look  at  the  others.  The  next  upon 
whom  my  eye  fell  was  the  poor  Swede,  in  whom  I  had  taken  so 
much  interest.  He  had  received  several  balls  through  the  breast, 
his  hair  was  gory,  and  his  lustreless  and  dead  eyes  wide  open, 
but  the  muscles  of  the  face  were  not  contracted,  and  I  hoped  he 
had  passed  away  without  much  suffering;  but  upon  moving  to 
the  other  side,  my  blood  curdled,  when  I  perceived  that  the 
whole  back  of  the  head  had  been  blown  away,  exhibiting  the 
empty,  brainless  skull.  But  enough,  and  too  much  of  all  this.  I 
would  not  be  thought  a  lover  of  the  horrible. 

The  bodies  were  buried  on  the  same  day.  The  head  of  the 
colonel  was  severed  from  the  trunk,  and  hung  in  chains  near 
where  the  battle  was  fought.  The  head  and  right  arm  of  Florine 
were  similarly  suspended  on  the  spot  where  the  murder  of  Por- 
tales  was  committed,  and  in  a  few  days  people  ceased  to  talk,  or 
even  think  of  the  tragical  fate  of  the  insurgents. 

But  there  are  some  who  will  think  of  tlicm,  who  will  weep 
and  lament  for  them  through  long  years  of  sorrow.  Mothers  are 
mourning  for  their  children,  and  "  will  not  be  comforted," 
Wives,  sons,  and  daughters  are  drinking  the  waters  of  affliction, 
embittered  an  hundred  fold  by  the  violent  death  of  those  who 
were  dear  to  them  !  Vidaurre  had  a  mother,  wife,  and  children  ; 
the  Swede  had  a  wife  and  mother  in  his  own  country  :  many 
more  of  them  were  similarly  circumstanced,  and  even  the  ruffian 
Florine  will  be  wept  for  by  the  partial  eyes  of  maternal  tender- 
ness. 

There  was  another  actor  in  this  revolt  whom  we  have  losi  sight 
offer  some  time.  Colonel  Vidaurre's  younger  brother,  the  coni- 
niandante  of  the  Rczguardo.     Although  he  was  fully  engaged  in 


NARRATIVE   OF   A   JOURNEY 

the  insurrection,  and  was  on  the  ground  at  the  time  of  the  murder 
of  Portales,  yet  he  was  not  in  the  battle  which  followed  ;  and  on 
his  examination,  found  means  to  prove,  that  during  the  time 
when  these  scenes  were  transpiring,  he  was  lying  dead  drunk  at 
a  house  in  the  vicinity.  This  proof  of  an  alibi  cleared  him, 
and  his  sentence  will  probably  be  commuted  to  imprisonment  or 
transportation. 

The  squadron  for  Peru  will  sail  in  a  few  weeks,  and  it  is  ex- 
expected  that  in  a  short  time  an  embargo  will  be  placed  on  all 
vessels  in  the  port,  which  will  continue  in  force  for  a  month  or 
more. 

On  the  22d  of  August,  I  embarked  on  board  the  brig  B.  Me- 
zick,  Captain  Martin,  bound  for  Philadelphia,  and  in  the  evening, 
sailed  out  of  the  harbor  of  Valparaiso. 

September  1th. — During  the  past  week  we  have  had  some 
Cape  Horn  weather — rain,  snow,  and  hail,  but  happily,  no  ice. 
The  sea  has  been  tremendously  high,  and  still  continues  so,  with 
the  weather  excessively  cold.  We  may,  however,  consider  our- 
selves peculiarly  favored,  as  not  a  day  has  passed,  in  which 
we  did  not  see  the  sun  and  ascertain  our  longitude.  Pro- 
bably the  greatest  difficulty  and  danger  of  this  vicinity  is 
the  constant  darkness  and  gloom  which  is  its  usual  cha- 
racteristic. You  are  in  consequence,  unable  to  ascertain 
your  true  position  by  observation,  and  dead  reckoning  fur- 
nishes but  an  insecure  guide  when  powerful  currents  are  im- 
pelling you  to  leeward,  and  drilling  your  vessel  towards  the 
most  frightful  of  all  dangers,  a  rocky  lee-coast.  We  have  now 
doubled  the  cape,  and  are  steering  N.  E.,  the  island  of  Diego 
Ramirez  bearing  W.  130  miles.  We  have  therefore  left  the 
Pacific,  and  are  now  in  the  South  Atlantic  ocean. 

October  Sth. — We  are  within  about  two  degrees  of  the  tropical 
line,  and,  with  good  breezes,  only  about  twenty>five  days  sail 
from  the  capes  of  Delaware.     Oh,  who  can  describe  the  anxious 


ACROSS  TUB   WOCIKV   MOKNTAINH,  K'VV, 


309 


longings  of  him  who  is  approaching  hlH  beloved  home,  nfter  hav- 
ing been  long  separated  fronj  it,  or  depict  hif>  feelings,  his  ardent, 
soul-absorbing  feelings,  in  the  proMpect  of  soon  holding  to  his 
bosom  the  dear  beings  who  aro  twinod  around  every  fibre  of  his 
heart  1 

Yesterday  we  passed  the  latitude  of  Pcrntmbuco,  and  aro  now 
steering  N.  W.  along  tho  nortliom  cMMi  of  Hruzil. 

On  the  13th  of  November,  wo  made  Oupo  Ilcniopcn,  and  took 
a  pilot  on  board,  at  the  distanco  of  four  miles  from  land.  The 
next  day  we  ran  in,  and  anchored  within  view  of  the  light-house, 
during  a  heavy  N.  E.  gale.  In  tlio  night  we  were  so  unfortunate 
as  to  lose  successively  both  our  bower  unchors,  and  were  compel- 
led to  run  out  to  sea  again.  The  day  following,  however,  was  clear; 
we  procured  another  anchor  at  the  breakwater,  and  had  a  fine  run 
of  forty-eight  hours  to  the  city.  I  oguiu  trod  tho  shore  of  my 
native  land,  after  an  absence  of  three  years  and  eight  months. 
I  met  again  the  dear  relatives  and  friends,  from  whom  I  had 
been  so  long  separated,  and  who  lind  been  spared  in  mercy  to 
welcome  the  wanderer  to  a  participation  in  tho  inestimable  bles- 
sings of  Home. 


APPENDIX. 


W" 


CATALOGUE    OF    QUADRUPEDS, 

FOUND  IN  THE  TERRITORY  OF  THE  OREGON. 

([j'  The  new  species  are  designated  by  an  *  preceding  the  vulgar  name, 

American  Bison,  or  Buffalo,  Bos  americanus. 

Moose,  Cervus  dices. 

Wapiti,  or  Red  Deer,  (Elk  of  the  hunters,)  Cervvs  canadensis. 

Black-tailed  Deer,  Cervus  macrourus. 

White-tailed  Deer,  Cervus  leucurus. 

Prong-horned  Antelope,  Antelope  fur  cifer. 

Grizzly  Bear,  Ursusferox, 

Black  Bear,  Ursus  americanus. 

White  Bear. 

Brown  Bear. 

American  Badger,  Meles  labradoria. 

Racoon,  Procyon  lotor. 

Common  Wolf,  Canus  lupus. 

Dusky  Wolf,  Canus  nubilus.?* 

Cinereous  Wolf,  Canus. 

Prairie  Wolf,  Canus  latrans. 

Red  Fox,  Canus  vulpes. 

Grey  Fox,  Canus  cinereo-argentatus. 

Cross  Fox,  Canus  cinereo-argentatus. 

Black,  or  Silver  Fox,  Canus  cinereo-argentatus. 


♦  This  is  probably  a  new  species.     It  is  much  larger  than  nubUvs,  as  described, 
and  dift'ers  much  in  its  liabits. 


312 


APPENDIX. 


Wolverene,  or  Glutton,  Gulo  luscus. 

Beaver,  Castor  Jiber. 

Musk-rat,  or  Musquash,  Fiber  zihethicus. 

Sea  Otter,  Lutra  marina. 

Land,  or  River  Otter,  Lutra  canadensis. 

Pine  Marten,  Mustela  martea. 

Ermine  Weasel,  Mustela  erminea. 

Fisher,  Mustela  Pennanti. 

Mink,  Mustela  vison. 

Mountain  Sheep,  Ovis  montana. 

Mountain  Goat,  Capra  americana. 

Cougar,  or  Panther,  Fclia  concolor.* 

Hudson's  Bay  Lynx,  Felis  hudsonicus. 
*Townscnd's  Hare,  Lepus  Townsendii,  (Baciiman.) 
*Wormwood  Hare,  Lepus  artemesia,  (Bachman.)  ^ 

Marsh  Hare,  Lepus  palustris,  (Bachman.) 
*Nuttall's  little  Hare,  Lepus  Nuttallii,  (Bachman.) 

Little  Chief  Hare,  Lagomys  princeps,  (Richardson.) 

Prairie  Dog,  or  Marmot,  Arctomys  Itidodcianus. 

Franklin's  Marmot,  Arctomys  Franklinii. 

Douglass'  Marmot,  Arctomys  Douglassii. 

Richardson's  Marmot,  Arctomys  Richnrdsonii. 
*Townsend's  Marmot,  SpermopMlus  Townsendii, (Baciijuk'S.) 

Hood's  Marmot,  Spermophilus  tridecemlineatus. 
*Small-pouched  Marmot,  (the  opening  of  the  pouches  within 
the  mouth,)  not  in  my  collection. 

Gopher,  or  Kamas  Rat,  Geomys  borealis. 

Townsend's    Gopher,    Geomys    Townsendii,    (Richardson's 
M.S.S.) 

Jumping  Mouse,  Meriones  labradorius,  (Richardson.) 

White-footed  Mouse,  Mus  leucopus. 

Common  Mouse,  Mus  musculus. 

Rocky  Mountain  Rat,  Neotoma  Drummondii. 
*Townsend's  Meadow  Mouse,  Arvicola   Townsendii,  (Bach- 
man.) 
*Small  Meadow  Mouse,  Arvicola  oregonii,  (Bachmap.) 


*  There  is  n  second  species  of  I'unther,  of  wliivli,  unfortunately,  I  possess  only 
tlie  skull  and  one  foot.    I  believe  it  to  be  undcscribed. 


AFFENDIX. 


818 


Douglass'  Tree  Squirrel,  Sciurua  Douglaaaii,  (Bbnnett.) 
*Downy  Squirrel,  Sciurus  lanuginoaus,  (Baciiman.) 
*Richardson'8  Squirrel,  Sciurus  Richardsonii,  (Bachman.) 
*Little  Ground  Squirrel,  Tamias  minimus,  (Baciiman.) 

Four-lined  Squirrel,  Tamias  quadrivitatus,  (Say.) 
*Townsend'3  Ground  Squirrel,   Tamias  Townsendii,  (JJAcit« 

MAN.) 

Hudson's  Bay  Flying  Squirrel,  Pteromys  sabrinus. 
*Oregon  Flying  Squirrel,  Pteromys  oregonensis,  (Baciiman.) 
*Townsend's  Shrew  Mole,  Scalops  Townsendii,  (Bacuman.) 
*Columbia  Shrew,  Sorex,  (undescribed.)  «  r. 

Thick-tail  Star-nose  Mole,  Condylvra  macroura. 

Long-tail  Star-nose,  Condylura  longicaudata. 

Hair  Seal,  Phoca  vitulina. 

American  Porcupine,  Hystrix  dorsata. 
*Great-eared  Bat,  Plecotus  Townsendii,  (Cooper.) 

Say's  Bat,  Vespertilio  subulatus,  (Say.) 
*?Little  Bat,  Vespertilio,  (undescribed.) 


'.) 


)8css  onlj 


Nuttall's  Little  Hare. 

Lepus  *Nuttallii,  (Bach.)  in  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  7,  part  IL  page  345,  plate  22,  No.  1. 

"  Characters. — Very  snjall :  tail  of  moderate  length ;  general 
color  above,  a  mixture  of  light  bufT  and  dark  brown ;  beneath, 
light  yellowish-gray  ;  ears  broad  and  rounded  ;  lower  surface  of 
the  tail  white."        ****** 

"  The  fur  on  the  back  is  for  three-fourths  of  its  length  from  the 
roots  of  a  plumbeous  color,  then  ght  ash,  mixed  with  buff;  and 
the  long  interspersed  hairs  are  all  tipped  with  black.  The  ears  are 
pretty  well  clothed  internally  and  externally  with  hairs  of  an  ash 
color,  bordered  with  a  line  of  black  anteriorly,  and  edged  with 
white.  From  behind  the  ears  to  the  back  there  is  a  very  broad 
patch  of  buff,  and  the  same  color,  mixed  with  rufous,  prevails  on 
the  outer  surface  of  the  legs,  extending  to  the  thighs  and 
shoulders.  The  soles  of  the  feet  are  yellowish-brown.  The 
claws,  which  are  slightly  arched,  are  light  brown  for  three- 
fourths  of  their  length,  and  tipped  with  white.  The  under  sur- 
farce  of  the  tail  is  while. 

X  40 


314 


Appendix. 


6|  inches 

2 

1 

24 

n 

n 
4 

u 

Length,  from  point  of  nose  to  insertion  of  tail, 

*'      of  heel, 

"      of  fur  on  the  back, 

"      of  head, 

Height  of  car, 

Tail  (vertebrfiB,) 

"     including  fur, 

This  description  is  from  a  single  specimen  brought  by  Mr. 
Nuttall  from  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  was  captured  on 
the  banks  of  a  small  stream  which  flowed  into  the  Snake  or 
Shoshoii^  river,  where  it  was  not  uncommon.  We  never  heard  of 
it  on  the  Columbia,  and  presume,  therefore,  that  it  does  not 
inhabit  a  very  extended  range. — ^Towws. 

Townsend's  Shrew  Mole. 

Scalops  *Townsendii,  (Bachman.)  Journal  Acad.  Natural 
Sciences,  vol.  6,  part  I.  Scalops  canadensis,  (Richardson,) 
Fauna  boreali  Americana,  p.  9. 

"  This  species  first  described  by  Dr.  Richardson,  was  incor- 
rectly referred  to  the  common  shrew  mole  of  the  United  States. 
Its  size  and  dentition  are  sufficient  evidences  of  its  being  a  new 
and  (I'stinct  species,  which,  on  account  of  the  number  and  ar- 
rangement of  its  teeth,  will  either  require  the  characters  of  the 
genus  to  be  enlarged,  or  that  it  be  placed  under  a  new  subgenus. 
A  specimen  of  this  quadruped  was  kindly  presented  to  me,  by 
Mr.  Nuttall,  who  requested,  that  in  case  it  should  prove  a  distinct 
species,  it  might  be  given  under  the  above  name.  I  subsequently 
received  from  Mr.  Townsend  another  specimen,  a  little  larger, 
which  I  presume  to  be  a  mere  variety,  although  very  singularly 
marked. 

Description  of  Mr.  NuttalVs  specimen. 

Length  of  the  head  and  body,    .        7  in.  6  lines. 

Length  of  tail,  .        .         .        1  in.  6      " 

Breadth  of  the  fore  palm,  ...         7      " 

Dental  Ibrmula.    Incis.  |.  False  molars  ^|.    True  molars  |.  44. 

The  body  is  thick  and  cylindrical,  shaped  like  the  shrew  mole 
of  the  United  States.  The  whole  upper  and  under  surface  is  of  a 
dark  color,  in  most  lights  appearing  black.  The  hair,  when 
blown  aside,  exhibits  a  grayish-black  color  from  the  roots  to  near 


APPENDIX. 


315 


i( 
(I 
(t 
it 


the  tips.  The  tail  is  slightly  clothed  with  short  strong  bris- 
tles. 

The  specimen  brought  by  Mr.  Townsend,  is  thicker,  and 
about  an  inch  longer.  It  has  a  white  stripe  about  two  lines 
wide,  commencing  under  the  chin,  and  running  in  a  somewhat 
irregular  line  along  the  under  surface  of  the  body,  to  within  an 
inch  and  a  half  of  the  insertion  of  the  tail;  there  is  also  a  white 
streak  commencing  on  the  forehead  and  extending  along  the 
snout."        #*####** 

Inhabits  the  Columbia  river. — Towns. 


Townsend's  Meadow  Mouse. 
Avicola*Townaendii,  (Bach.)     Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
vol.  8,  part  I.     Hash-sho,  of  the  Chinook  Indians. 

"  Body  cylindrical,  head  rather  small,  whiskers  nearly  all 
white,  intermingled  with  a  few  black  hairs ;  eyes  small ;  teeth 
large,  yellow ;  ears  large,  broad,  extending  a  little  beyond  the 
fur  ;  feet  of  moderate  size,  toes  like  the  rest  of  this  genus;  thumb 
protected  by  a  rather  short,  acute  nail ;  fur  on  the  back,  about 
three  lines  long,  much  shorter  beneath.  Tail  scaly,  sparingly 
covered  with  soft  brown  hair,  a  few  white  hairs  at  its  extremity;  feet 
clothed  to  the  nails  with  short,  brown,  adpressed  hairs;  claws  brown; 
fur  above  lead  color  from  the  roots  to  near  the  tips,  which  are 
dark  brown ;  beneath  Jnereous. 

Length  of  head  and  body,         6  inches,    0 
Length  of  tail,  2     "  6 

Fore  feet  to  point  of  nails,  9 

From  heel  to  point  of  nail,         1     "  0 

Breadth  of  ear,  5 

Inhabits  the  Columbia  river. — ^Towns. 


lines 


« »» 


Oregon  Meadow  Mouse. 

Arvicola  Oregoni,  (Bach.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences,  Vol. 
8,  part  I. 

"  This  diminutive  species  is  another  of  the  discoveries  of  Mr. 
Townsend. 

Head  of  moderate  size,  body  slender,  eyes  very  small  for  this 
genus ;  ears  nearly  naked,  concealed  by  the  fur ;  feet  small ; 
whiskers  the  length  of  the  head,  white  and  black,  the  latter  pre- 


816 


APPENDIX. 


dominating ;  color  above,  a  shade  lighter  than  that  of  the  former 
species,  inclining  a  little  to  hoary  brown  ;  ash-colored  beneath  ; 
a  very  minute  blunt  thumb  nail  on  the  fore  foot. 
Length  of  tho  head  and  body,     .     3  inches, 
Length  of  tail  .        .        .        1      "      2  lines." 

Inhabits  the  Columbia  river. — Towns. 

Townsend's  Marmot. 

Spermophilua  *Townscndii,  (Bach.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat. 
Sciences,  Vol.  8,  part  I.  Tet  no^  of  the  Walla-walla,  and  Nez 
Percys  Indians. 

•'  The  body  is  long  and  rather  slender.  Head  of  moderate 
size ;  nose  slightly  obtuse.  Ears  short,  scarcely  a  line  in  height ; 
nails  slender,  compressed,  and  slightly  arched ;  the  thumb  pro- 
tected by  an  acute  and  prominent  nail ;  the  second  cluv  in  the 
fore  foot,  as  in  all  the  species  of  this  genus,  is  longest,  and  not  the 
third,  as  in  the  squirrels.  Cheek-pouches  not  large.  Tail  thickly 
clothed  with  fur,  and  in  the  dried  specimen  appears  much  flatten- 
ed ;  the  fur  is  soil,  smooth,  and  lustrous. 

There  is  a  line  of  white  above  and  below  the  eye-brows.  Tho 
fur  on  tho  whole  of  the  upper  surface  is  for  one-fourth  of  its 
length  from  the  roots  of  a  nearly  black  color,  then  a  broad  line 
of  silver  gray,  then  a  narrow  line  of  daik  brown,  edged  with  yel- 
lowish-white, with  a  few  black  hairs  mterspersed,  giving  it  a 
brownish-gray  appearance.  On  the  under  surface,  where  the 
hair  is  a  little  longer  than  on  the  back,  it  is  black  at  the  roots, 
and  cinereous  at  the  points ;  on  the  forehead  and  nose,  it  is 
slightly  tinged  with  brown.  The  line  of  separation  between  the 
colors  of  the  upper  and  under  surface,  exists  high  up  along  the 
sides,  and  is  very  distinctly  drawn.  The  tail  on  the  upper  sur- 
face is  the  color  of  the  back,  slightly  tinged  with  brown  beneath ; 
the  teeth  are  white. 

Length  of  the  head  and  body, 
"  head, 

"  tail,  (vertebrae,) 

"  "    including  fur, 

Length  from  heel  to  middle  hind  claw,  1     "     -4 

I  procured  a  single  specimen  of  this  animal  on  the  Columbia 
river,  about  three  hundred  miles  above  its  mouth,  in  July.     It 


8  inches  9  lines, 
1     "     10     " 
1     " 
1     "       6    " 


APPENDIX. 


317 


it    IS 


was  said  to  be  common  there  at  that  season,  but  as  I  woh  travel- 
ing in  boats  to  the  interior,  had  but  little  time  to  search  for  it. 
I  know  but  little  of  its  habits.  It  becomes  excessively  fat,  and  is 
eaten  by  the  Indians.  Disappears  in  August,  and  emerges  in  the 
spring  in  a  very  attenuated  state. — Towns,  in  lit. 

Douglass'  Suuirrel. 

Sciurus  Douglanaii,  (Bennett.)  Scitirus  Townacmlii,  (Bach- 
man.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences,  Vol.  8,  part  I.  Ap-poe- 
poe,  of  the  Chinook  Indians. 

"  This  species,  in  the  form  of  its  body,  is  not  very  unlike  the 
Sciurua  hudaonicua  ;  its  cars  and  tail,  however,  are  proportion- 
ably  much  shorter ;  it  is  about  a  fourth  larger,  and  in  its  mark- 
ings differs  widely  from  all  other  known 'species. 

Head  considerably  broader  than  that  of  the  Sciurua  hudaonicua,' 
nose  less  elongated  and  blunter,  body  long  and  slender ;  eara 
rather  small,  nearly  rounded,  slightly  tufled  posteriorly.  As 
usual  in  this  genus,  the  third  inner  toe  is  the  longest,  and  not  the 
second,  as  in  the  Spcrmophile. 

Color. — The  whiskers,  which  are  the  length  of  the  head,  are 
black.  The  fur,  which  is  soil  and  lustrous,  is,  on  the  back  from 
the  roots  to  near  the  points,  plumbeous,  tipped  with  brownish- 
gray,  with  a  few  lighter  colored  hairs  interspersed,  giving  it  a 
dark  brown  appearance  ;  when  closely  examined,  it  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  thickly  sprinkled  with  minute  points  of  rust 
color  on  a  black  ground.  The  tail,  which  is  distichous,  but  not 
broad,  is,  for  three-fourths  of  an  inch,  of  the  color  of  the  back ;  in 
the  middle,  the  fur  is  plumbeous  at  the  roots,  then  irregular 
markings  of  brown  and  black,  tipped  with  soiled  white,  giving  it 
a  hoary  appearance ;  on  the  extremity  of  the  tail,  the  hairs  are 
black  from  the  roots,  tipped  with  light  brown.  The  inner  sides 
of  the  extremities,  and  the  outer  surface  of  the  feet,  together  with 
the  throat  and  mouth,  and  a  line  above  and  under  the  eye,  are 
bright  buff.  The  colors  on  the  upper  and  under  parts  are  sepa- 
rated by  a  line  of  black,  commencing  at  the  shoulders,  and  run- 
ning along  the  flanks  to  the  thighs.  It  is  widest  in  the  middle, 
about  three  lines,  and  tapers  off  to  a  point.  The  hairs  which 
project  beyond  the  outer  margins  of  the  ears,  and  forming  a 
slight  tu^,  are  dark  brown,  and,  in  some  specimens,  black. 


318 


APPRUniX. 


Length  from  point  ofnosn  to  insertion  oftail,  8  inches  4  lines. 
"      oftail,  (vertebra,)         .         .         .  4     "       6    •• 
"         "       including  fur,      .         .         .  6     "       4    " 
Height  of  car  posteriorly,         ...  6     " 

Solo  and  middle  hind  claw,       .        .         .  1     "     11 


«t  " 


This  squirrel  is  common  on  the  Columbia  in  pine  forcst^. 
Feeds  chiefly  upon  the  seeds  of  the  pine,  and  lays  up  a  largo 
quantity  of  them  for  winter  store,  in  the  hollows  of  decayed 
limbs. 

It  is  very  unsuspicious  and  tamo  ;  more  so  than  Sciurua  hud' 
aonicua.  Voice  remarkably  loud  and  harsh ;  may  be  heard 
several  hundred  yards.  It  is  in  the  habit  of  nipping  off  small 
branches  from  the  summits  of  the  trees,  and  throwing  them 
down,  apparently  in  sport.  I  have  seen  at  one  time  at  least  a 
dozen  of  them  engaged  in  this  way,  within  a  short  distance. 
The  twigs  were  falling  in  every  direction,  ond  the  loud  call  was 
not  suspended  for  a  moment.  The  nest  is  made  of  sticks  and 
hair,  usually  in  the  hollow  of  a  decayed  branch,  rarely  in  the 
bifurcation  of  limbs.  Has  four  young  at  a  birth,  which  remain 
longer  in  the  nest  than  the  common  gray  squirrel. 

I  have  frequently  seen  this  species  tamed,  and  in  the  pos* 
session  of  the  Indian  boys.  They  were  very  lively  and  playful. — 
Towns,  in  lit. 

Columbia  Pine  Suuirrel. 
Sciurus   *Richardaonii,   (Bachman,)   Journal   Acad.   Nat. 
Sciences,  Vol.  8,  part  I.      Small  brown  squirrel,  Lewis  and 
Clarke,  Vol.  3,  p.  37.    Sciurus  hudsonicus,  var.  (^Columbia  Pine 
Squirrel,  Richardson.) 

"  This  small  species  was  first  noticed  by  Lewis  and  Clarke, 
who  deposited  a  specimen  in  the  Philadelphia  Museum,  where  it  still 
exists.  I  have  compared  it  with  a  specimen  brought  by  Mr. 
Townsend,  and  find  them  identical.  Richardson,  who  appears 
not  to  have  seen  it,  supposes  it  to  be  a  mere  variety  of  the 
Sciurus  hudsonicus.  On  the  contrary,  Mr.  Townsend  says  in 
in  his  notes, '  It  is  evidently  a  distinct  species ;  its  habits  are 
very  difierent  from  those  of  the  Sciurus  hudsonicus.  It  frequents 
the  pine  trees  in  the  high  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  west  of 


APriCNDIX. 


»1() 


Clarke, 

e  it  still 

)y  Mr. 

ipears 

of  the 

ays  in 

its  are 

quents 

west  of 


tlio  gritut  iilmlii,  foiiillng  upon  the  leods  containod  in  tlin  concNi 
ThuNu  mm\»  aril  largo  and  white,  ond  contain  n  good  ditnl  of 
niitrimnnt.  Thn  indiuni*  nat  u  great  quantity  uf  thorn,  and  cMtnoni 
thuin  good.  'I'lin  nolo  of  thiH  squirrel  iH  a  loud  jarring  chattrtr, 
very  dillurunt  IVoni  the  voice  of  the  Sciurua  hudnonivu*.  It  i**  not  at 
all  Nhy,  lV<!(|U()ntly  coming  down  to  the  foot  of  the  tree  to  ritcon* 
noitro  the  puNNoiig«<r,arid  scolding  at  hirn  vociferouHly,  UIh,  I  think, 
aHcarco  Hpiu'ii'N.' 

Th«.'  <lin«iriin('c*  lirtwopn  tlmse  two  species  con  lie  dcfoctod  at  a 
glance  by  comparing  thn  specimens.  The  present,  in  adtlition  to 
itH  biting  about  n  fourth  smaller,  the  size  of  tho  TamiuH  lyiiUri, 
huM  lesM  of  thn  rnddish'brown  on  tho  upper  surface,  and  may  Ini 
alwuyM  iliNingiiiNlMtd  from  tho  other  by  the  blackness  of  its  tail  ut 
tho  extremity. 

The  body  of  thia  most  diminutive  of  all  tho  known  Np(>cJnN  of 
genuine  HquirrnI  in  North  America,  is  short,  and  docs  not  iirescnt 
that  uppuarancn  of  lightness  and  agility  which  distinguiNhes  the 
SeiuruM  hud»mmi».  Hood  large,  less  elongated,  and  nose 
a  littlo  blunter  than  flciurua  hudtonicua ;  ears  short ;  feet  of 
moderate  si/n,  the  third  toe  on  tho  fore  foot  but  slightly  longer  than 
the  second.  The  claws  are  compressed,  hooked  and  acute  ;  tail 
shorter  than  thn  borly  ;  tho  thumb  nail  is  broad,  flat  and  blunt. 

The  f\ir  on  thn  back  is  dark  plumbeous  from  the  roots,  tipin-d 
with  rusty  brown  nnd  black,  giving  it  a  rusty  gray  appearance. 
It  is  less  rufuuN  than  tho  Sciurus  hudaonicua,  and  lighter  colored 
than  tho  S.  JhufflaaaU.  The  feet,  on  their  upper  surface,  uro 
rufous  ;  on  tlin  shoulders,  forehead,  ears,  and  along  the  thighs, 
there  is  n  slight  lingo  of  the  same  color.  Tho  whiskers,  which 
are  a  liltln  longer  than  the  head,  are  bluck,  the  teeth  yiitlowish* 
white.  Thn  whole  uf  tho  under  surface,  as  well  as  a  line  around 
the  nyoN,  and  a  small  patch  above  the  nostrils,  smoke  gray.  'J'hu 
tail  foroboutonn.half  its  length,  presents  on  the  upper  surface  a  dark 
rufous  appearMricn  ;  many  of  the  hnirs  being  nearly  black,  pointed 
with  light  rulldis.  At  the  extremity  of  the  tail,  for  about  one  inch 
in  length,  the  hairs  are  black,  a  P-vv  of  them  slightly  tipjied  with 
rufous.  Thn  hind  feet,  from  the  heels  to  the  palms,  aro  thickly 
clothed  with  short  ndprcssed  light  colored  hairs ;  the  palms  are 
naked.  Thoeiidos  uro  marked  by  a  line  of  black  commencing  nt  thu 


320 


APPENDIX. 


shoulder,  and  terminating  abruptly  on  the  flanks ;  it  is  about  two 

inches  in  length,  and  four  lines  wide. 

Length  of  head  and  body,      6  inches  2  lines. 
"       tail  (vertebra),)  3      "      6    " 

"         "     including  fur,       5      " 
"        ears  posteriorly,  3    " 

"         "     including  fur,  5    " 

"      sole  and  middle  hind  claw,        9    "  " 


Downy  SaviBREL. 
Sciurua  lanuginosus,  (Bach.)    Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
vol.  8,  part  I. 

"  A  singular  and  beautiful  little  quadruped,  to  which  I  have 
conceived  the  above  name  appropriate,  was  sent  to  me  with  the 
collection  of  Mr.  Townsend. 

The  head  is  broader  than  the  S.  hudsonicus,  and  the  forehead 
much  arched  ;  the  ears  short  and  oval  ,*  whiskers  longer  than 
the  head ;  feet  and  toes  short,  thumb  armed  with  a  broad,  flat 
nail ;  nails  slender,  compressed,  and  acute ;  the  third  on  the  fore 
feet  is  the  longest,  as  in  the  squirrels.  The  tail,  which  bears 
some  resemblance  to  that  of  the  flying  squirrel,  is  composed  of 
hairs  a  little  coarser  than  those  of  the  back,  and  much  shorter 
than  the  body.  On  the  fore  feet  the  palms  are  nearly  naked; 
the  under  surface  of  the  toes  being  only  partially  covered  with 
hair,  but  on  the  hind  feet,  the  under  surface,  from  the  heel  even 
to  the  extremity  of  the  nails  is  thickly  clothed  with  short  soil  hairs. 

The  fur  is  softer  and  more  downy  than  that  of  any  other  of 
our  species,  and  the  whole  covering  of  the  animal  indicates  it 
to  be  a  native  of  a  cold  region. 

The  teeth  are  dark  orange ;  whiskers  brown  ;  the  fur  on  the 
back,  from  the  roots  to  near  the  extremities,  light  plumbeous, 
tipped  with  light  chestnut-brown ;  on  the  sides  with  silver  gray ; 
there  is  a  broad  band  of  white  around  the  eyes ;  a  spot  of  white 
on  the  hind  part  of  the  head,  a  little  in  advance  of  the  anterior 
portion  of  the  ears.  The  nose  is  white,  which  color  extends 
along  the  forehead  till  above  the  eyes,  where  it  is  gradually 
blended  with  the  colors  on  the  back.  The  whole  of  the  under 
surface,  including  the  feet  and  the  inner  surface  of  the  legs,  pure 


APPENDIX. 


321 


white.  In  the  tail,  the  colors  are  irregularly  blended  with  mark- 
ings of  black,  light  brown,  and  white,  scarcely  two  hairs  being 
uniform  in  color.  In  general,  it  may  bo  said  that  the  tail,  when 
examined  without  reference  to  individual  hairs,  is  light  ash  at  the 
roots  of  the  hair,  then  a  broad,  but  not  well,  defined,  line  of 
light  rufous,  then  dark  brown,  and  tipped  with  rufous  and  smoke 
gray. 

Length  of  head  and  body,       .         .  7  inches  11  lines. 
"  tail,  (vertebra;,)        .         .  4     "         8     " 

««  "      including  fur,  .         .  6     " 

••  palm  and  middle  fore  claw,  1     " 

••  sole  and  middle  hind  claw,  1     "         9     " 

«  fur  on  the  back,      .         .  7     " 

"  at  the  tip  of  the  tail,         .1     "       10     " 

Height  of  ear,  measured  posteriorly,  5     " 

Distance  between  the  orbits,    .         .  6     "  " 

Of  the  habits,  &c.,  of  this  animal,  I  know  nothing.  It  was 
presented  to  me  by  William  Fraser  Tolmie,  Esq.,  surgeon  of  the 
Honorable  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  by  whom  it  was  captured 
near  Fort  McLoughlin,  on  the  N.  W.  coast  of  America. — ^Towns. 

Townsend's  Ground  Squirrel. 

Tamias  *  Townsendii,  (Bachman.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sci- 
ences, Vol.  8,  part  I.     Quiss-Quiss  of  the  Chinook  Indians. 

"  This  species  bears  some  resemblance  to  our  common  ground 
squirrel  of  the  middle  and  northern  states,  (S.  lysteri,)  it  differs 
from  it,  however,  in  its  larger  size,  longer  tail,  and  several  other 
striking  particulars. 

The  body  is  stouter  than  that  of  the  former  species,  the  head 
broader,  the  nose  more  obtuse,  and  the  tail  nearly  double  the 
length.  In  the  arrangement  of  the  teeth  and  toes,  this  species 
does  not  differ  widely  from  the  Sciurus  (Tamias)  lysteri,  except 
that  they  are  much  more  robust.  The  teeth  are  dark  orange ; 
whiskers,  which  are  a  little  shorter  than  the  head,  black  ;  a  line 
of  fawn  color,  commencing  at  the  nostrils,  runs  over  the  eye- 
brows, and  terminates  a  little  beyond  them  in  a  point  of  lighter 
color  ;  a  patch  of  similar  commences  under  the  eyelids,  and  run- 
ning along  the  cheeks,  terminates  at  the  ear.     There  is  a  line  of 

41 


322 


APrENDIX. 


dark  brown,  commencing  at  the  termination  of  tho  nose,  where 
it  forms  a  point,  and  bordering  the  fawn  color  above,  is  gradually 
blended  with  the  lighter  colors  of  the  head.  The  cars,  which 
are  of  moderate  size,  and  ovate,  are  on  the  upper  margins  of  the 
inner  surface  partially  clothed  with  a  few  short,  brown  hairs ; 
the  outer  surface  is  thickly  clothed  with  fur,  brown  on  the  ante- 
rior parts,  with  a  patch  of  white  covering  about  one-fourth  of  the 
car  on  the  posterior  portion.  Behind  the  ear  there  is  a  slight 
marking  of  cinereous,  of  about  six  lines  in  length,  terminating  near 
the  shoulder.  A  line  of  black  commences  on  the  hind  part  of 
the  head,  runs  over  the  centre  of  the  back,  where  it  spreads  out 
to  the  width  of  four  lines,  and  terminates  in  a  point  at  the  inser- 
tion of  the  tail ;  a  line  of  similar  color  commences  at  the  shoul- 
ders, and  running  parallel,  terminates  a  little  beyond  the  hips; 
another,  but  narrower  and  shorter  line  of  the  same  color,  runs 
parallel  with  this,  low  down  on  the  sides,  giving  it  five  black 
stripes.  The  head  and  back  are  light  yellowish-brown,  present- 
ing on  the  upper  surface  a  dusky  ochre  color.  It  has  not  the 
whitish  stripes  oiK  the  sides,  nor  the  rufous  color  on  the  hips, 
which  are  so  conspicuous  in  the  Sciurus  ( Tamias)  lysteri.  On 
the  throat,  belly,  and  inner  parts  of  the  legs  and  thighs,  the  color 
is  light  cinereous ;  there  is  no  line  of  separation  between  the  co- 
lors of  the  back  and  belly.  The  tail,  which  is  not  bushy,  is  on 
the  upper  surface  grayish-black,  having  a  hoary  appearance. 
Underneath  it  is  reddish  brown,  for  two-thirds  of  its  breadth,  then 
a  narrow  line  of  black,  tipped  with  light  ash.  The  nails  are 
brown. 

Length  of  the  head  and  body, 

"      Tail,  (vertebra;,) 
Length  of  tail,  including  fur     . 

"  head. 

Height  of  ear. 
Length  of  heel  to  middle  claw  o 

This  pretty  little  animal,  so  mu 
striatus,  is  quite  common  on  the  Columbia  river.  It  lives  in 
holes  in  the  ground,  and  is  so  tame,  that  it  not  unfroquently  runs 
over  your  feet  as  you  traverse  the  forests.  Tt  frequently  perches 
itself  upon  a  log  or  stump,  and  keeps  up  a  continual  clucking, 


.  G  inches  9  lines. 
.  4     " 
.  5     " 
.  2     " 

6    " 
i  foot,  1     "       6     '•  " 

resemblinj'  our  common 


• 


the  co- 
is  on 


incs. 


common 
lives  in 

itly  runs 
perches 

.lucking, 


API'RfinJX. 


323 


which  is  usually  nnsworocl  by  niiotlmr  nt  nomo  distance,  for  a 
considerable  time.  Thoir  notes  no  much  rnHnmblcs  that  of  the 
dusky  grouse,  {Tetrao  ohgcurun,)  that  I  have  more  than  once 
been  deceived  by  it. — Townh,  In  lit. 

I^EAST  GnovNU  Huviitntit. 

Tamias  *minimuii,  (Bachman.)  .loiininl  Acnd.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  8,  part  I. 

"This  diminutive  and  bonutll\4l  Npooicm  ofTtmiias,  not  half  the 
size  of  the  common  groimd  Ntjuirrol,  in  another  of  the  discoveries 
of  Mr.  Townsend. 

Length  of  head  and  body,      .        .         .3  inches,  9 


3 
4 


Imcs. 
« 


C( 


"       tail,  (vcrtobrm,)       .         . 

"        «     to  the  end  of  fur,      . 
Height  of  ear,  posteriorly,      .        .         . 
Length  of  head,  .         .         ,         .1 

"        heel  to  end  of  middio  (^Ifiw,        1     " 

The  head  is  rather  email ;  tlio  noHO  very  sharp  pointed  ;  claws 
moderately  curved,  comprosHod,  Mt'Utn,  and  dirk  brown.  Thero 
is,  as  in  all  the  species  of  this  gomis,  ti  minute  blunt  nail  on  the 
thumb.  The  feet  and  logs  ratlior  long  in  proportion  to  the  sizo 
of  the  animal. 

The  fur  is  soft  to  the  touch|  (liio  (uul  silky.  The  teeth,  which 
are  not  robust,  are  yellow  ;  a  whito  Nlrcak  runs  from  above  and 
behind  the  cyo  to  the  noslrilh,  giving  the  noso  a  sharp  and  point- 
ed appearance.  This  white  lim*  In  marked  on  the  upper  surface 
with  an  edge  of  brown  ;  a  minuto  lino  of  rufous  runs  from  the 
nose  through  the  cyo,  terminating  nt  tliocur,  another  commencing 
under  the  eye,  and  running  pai'allol  with  the  last,  terminates  on 
the  neck ;  a  line  of  black  conimonfiing  on  the  forehead,  extends 
over  the  back  and  tcrmindtps  nt  tliu  tail  ;  this  is  succeeded  on 
each  side  by  a  broad  lino  of  whitiNli-HMli,  then  by  a  narrower  line  of 
brown,  commencing  back  of  lliq  ni'ck  and  rimning  parallel 
with  the  rest,  till  it  is  narrowed  lo  n  point  on  the  hips;  this  is 
succeeded  by  a  line  of  pure  white  on  each  side,  similar  to  the 
broader  nnd  HlioWpr  stripe  of  brown,  givinc 


finally,  by 


it  on  the  back  one  stripe  of  blnck,  two  of  light  ash,  and  four  of 
light  brown.     The  head  ih  oinoruous  ;  thy  cars  liave  a  white  spot 


V 


834 


APPKNDIX. 


on  their  posterior  Burfaco,  similar  to  tiie  last  species,  and  also  to 
another  dcHcribcd  by  Say,  as  the  Scivrus  quairivitatua,  with 
which  I  have  coinpurod  it.  The  nccit  and  whole  of  the  under 
surface,  including  tlio  legs  and  thighs,  arc  white.  The  tail, 
which  is  quite  narrow,  is  dark  brown  above,  edged  with  light 
rufous.  Beneath,  it  iH  rufous  near  the  roots,  then  a  line  of  black 
edged  with  light  rufous ;  from  the  end  of  the  vertebrtc  to  the 
extremity,  the  hairs  an;  black,  a  few  of  them  are  tipped  with  light 
rufous." 

This  species  is  found  very  plentiful  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio 
Colorado,  but  I  think  does  not  inhabit  a  very  extensive  range,  as 
I  never  saw  it  aftor  leaving  this  river.  It  keeps  almost  constantly 
among  heaps  of  stones,  on  the  tops  of  which  it  often  perches, 
extending  its  long  tail  over  its  back,  ond  curving  it  down  in  front 
of  its  head.  At  such  times  it  emits  a  lively,  garrulous  note  like 
the  squeaking  of  a  young  puppy  ;  but  if  approached,  darts  off  with 
astonishing  swillness,  carrying  the  tail  level  with  the  ground,  and 
almost  eluding  the  oyo  by  tho  activity  of  its  motions,  and  con- 
ceals itself  under  some  jutting  rock  or  in  the  interstices  of  a  stone 
heap  until  tho  intruder  has  passed. — Towns,  in  lit. 


TowNSENo's  Gbeat>eared  Bat. 

PlecotuH*Town»endii,  (Coopeb,)  Annals  of  the  Lyceum  of 
Nat.  History  of  N.  York,  Vol.  4,-  p.  73.  [Plate  3,  fig.  6,  the 
head.]     So-capual  of  tho  Chinook  Indians. 

"  Fur  on  tho  back  dusky  at  base,  brown  at  the  tips,  with  a 
ferruginous  cast,  tho  two  tints  appearing  neai'ly  uniform.  The 
ears  are  fringed  with  fur.  Beneath,  the  fur  is  of  a  reddish 
cinereous  or  ochrcous  hue,  lighter  towards  the  tail,  but  not  in  the 
least  whitish.  Tho  noso  is  similar  to  the  P.  Lecontii,  but  the 
fleshy  crests  between  the  eyes  and  nostrils  appear  to  be  still 
larger,  and  in  the  preserved  specimens  are  much  more  con- 
spicuous. Tho  oars  oro  similar,  though  every  way  more  ample 
in  the  present,  and  presenting  a  different  outline  immediately 
after  rising  from  tho  forehead  ;  the  auricle  broader  and  larger. 
The  wing  and  tail  membranes  are  entirely  naked,  dusky,  of  a 
thicker  texture,  and  much  more  strongly  reticulated  than  in  the 
first  species .  , 


APPENDIX. 


325 


as 


Incisors  i,  canines  —,  molars  r-^=»  36, 

0  '  1—1'  0—0 

Total  length,      .        .         .  3.8  inches. 

Ears,         ....  1.1     " 

Tail,  .        .        .         .  1.7     " 

Fore  arm,  .         .        .  1.8     " 

Tibia,        .        .        .        .  0.8     " 

Spread,      .         .         .  11.0     " 

Three  specimens  of  this  very  distinct  new  species  were  brought 
from  the  Columbia  river  by  Mr.  John  K.  Townsend,  where  he 
procured  them  on  his  late  journey.  It  is  very  like  the  P.  Le- 
contii,  but  they  may  be  readily  known  by  the  color  of  the  under 
part  of  the  body,  besides  which  they  differ  in  almost  all  their 
details  of  color  and  proportions,  the  present  being  a  larger  and 
more  robust  animal.  Together,  they  seem  to  form  a  small  group 
in  the  genus,  characterized  by  the  double  fleshy  crest  of  the 
nose,  which  is  not  mentioned  as  occurring  in  any  other  species. 

Verpertilio  megalotis,  (Raf.)  Plecotis  Rafineaquii,  (Lesson,) 
which  is  described  as  having  the  auricle  as  long  as  the  ears,  can- 
not be  either  of  our  species.  I  am  not  acquainted  with  any 
other  species  within  the  United  States." 

Inhabits  the  Columbia  river  district,  rather  common.  Fre- 
quents the  store  houses  attached  to  the  forts,  seldom  emerging 
from  them  even  at  night.  This,  and  a  species  of  Verpertilio, 
-(F.  subulatus,)  which  is  even  more  numerous,  are  protected  by 
the  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  for  their  services 
in  destroying  the  dermestes  which  abound  in  their  fur  establish* 
ments. — Towns. 


1 


Townsend's  Hare. 

Lepus  *Town8endii,  (Baciiman.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sci- 
ences. Vol.  8,  part  I.,  figure.  Poolalik  of  the  Walla-walla 
and  Nez  Perces  Indians. 

"  This  species,  which  is  another  of  the  discoveries  of  Mr. 
Townsend,  and  of  which  no  specimen  exists  in  any  museum  that 
I  have  had  an  opportunity  of  examining,  is  one  of  the  most  sin- 
gular hares  that  has  fallen  under  my  notice. 

Characters. — Size  of  the  northern  hare,  {L,  americanus.) 
Ears,  tail,  legs,  and  tarsi,  very  long.     Color  above,  light  gray ; 


326 


APPENDIX. 


beneath,  white.  Crown  of  the  head,  cheeks,  neck,  and  whole 
upper  parts — the  front  of  the  cars  and  legs,  externally — gray, 
with  a  faint  cream-colored  wash.  Hairs  whitish,  or  silver-gray 
at  base,  then  brownish-white,  then  black,  with  a  faint  cream 
tinge,  and  ultimately  tipped  with  black ;  interspersed  with  long, 
silky  hairs,  some  of  which  arc  wholly  black.  Chin,  throat,  whole 
under  surface,  interior  of  legs,  the  whole  of  the  tail,  (with  the 
exception  of  a  narrow,  dark,  line  on  the  top,)  pure  white  to  the 
roots.  Irides  light  hazel ;  around  the  eyes  white.  The  tips  of 
the  back  parts  of  the  cars  black ;  the  external  two-thirds  of  the 
hinder  part  of  the  cars  white,  running  down  the  back  part  of  the 
neck,  and  there  mingling  with  the  color  of  the  upper  surface;  the 
interior  third  of  the  outer  portion  of  the  ear,  the  same  gray  color 
as  the  back,  fringed  on  the  edge  with  long  hairs,  which  are  red- 
dish-fawn at  the  roots,  and  white  at  the  tips.  The  interior  of 
the  ear  is  very  thinly  scattered  with  beautiful,  fine  white  hairs, 
being  more  thickly  clothed  towards  the  edge,  where  it  is  grizzled 
black  and  yellowish,  but  the  edge  itself  is  fringed  with  pure 
white,  becoming  yellowish  towards  the  tip,  and  at  the  tip  is  black. 
Whiskers  nearly  as  long  as  the  head,  for  the  most  part  white, 
black  at  the  roots ;  a  few  hairs  are  pure  white,  others  wholly 
black. 

Dimensions. 
From  nose  to  insertion  of  tail, 
"     tail  to  end  of  hair, 
((      u  (vertebra),)  about     . 
Ears  measured  posteriorly,     . 
Length  of  head  measured  over  the  forehead,  4 
"      from  eye  to  nose, 
"       from  heel  to  longest  nail,  . 
The  specimen  from  which  the  above  description  and  drawing 
were  taken,  was  a  female,  procured  by  Mr.  Townsend  on  the 
Walla-walla,  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Columbia  river." 

This  species  is  common  on  the  Rocky  Mountains.  I  made 
particular  inquiries,  both  of  the  Indians  and  British  traders,  re- 
garding the  changes  it  undergoes  at  different  seasons,  and  they 
all  assured  me  that  it  never  was  lighter  colored.  We  first  saw  it 
on  the  plains  of  Blackfoot  river,  west  of  the  mountains,  and 


21  inches  0  lines 

5     " 

6     « 

3     " 

3     « 

4     " 

9     « 

,4     " 

6     " 

2     « 

0     " 

6     •' 

6     " 

AP1>END1X. 


327 


observed  it  in  all  similar  situations  during  our  route  to  the  Co- 
lumbia. When  first  seen,  which  was  in  July,  it  was  lean  and 
unsavory,  having,  like  our  common  species,  the  larva  of  an  in- 
sect imbedded  in  its  neck,  but  when  wc  arrived  at  Walla-walla, 
in  September,  wo  found  the  Indians,  and  the  persons  attached  to 
the  fort,  using  them  as  a  common  article  of  food.  Immediately 
after  we  arrived  we  were  regaled  with  a  dish  of  hares,  and  I 
thought  I  had  never  eaten  anything  more  delicious.  They  are 
found  here  in  great  numbers  on  the  plains  covered  with  worm- 
wood, (Arttmeaia,)  under  the  close  branches  of  which  they  often 
squat  when  pursued.  I  "'ill  not  be  qualified  that  this  animal 
"  can  leap  twenty-one  feet  at  a  bound,"  but  it  is  so  exceedingly 
fleet,  that  no  ordinary  dog  can  catch  it.  I  have  frequently  sur- 
prised it  in  its  form,  and  shot  it  as  it  leapt  away,  but  I  found  it 
necessary  to  be  very  expeditious,  and  to  pull  trigger  at  a  par- 
ticular instant,  or  the  game  was  off  amongst  the  wormwood,  and 
I  never  saw  it  again. 

The  Indians  kill  them  with  arrows,  by  approaching  them 
stealthily  as  they  lie  concealed  under  the  bushes,  and  in  winter 
take  them  with  nets.  To  do  this,  some  one  or  two  hundred 
Indians,  men,  women,  and  children,  collect  and  enclose  a  large 
space  with  a  slight  net,  about  five  feet  wide,  made  of  hemp ;  the 
net  is  kept  in  a  vertical  position  by  pointed  sticks  attached  to  it, 
and  driven  info  the  ground.  These  sticks  are  placed  about  five 
or  six  f(;et  apart,  and  at  each  one  an  Indian  is  stationed  with  a 
short  club  in  his  hand.  After  these  arrangements  are  completed, 
a  large  number  of  Indians  enter  the  circle,  and  beat  the  bushes 
in  every  direction.  The  frightened  hares  dart  off  towards  the 
nets,  and,  in  attempting  to  pass,  are  knocked  on  the  head  and 
secured. 

Mr.  Pambrun,  the  superintendent  of  Fort  Walla-walla,  from 
whom  I  obtained  this  account,  says  that  he  has  often  participated 
in  this  sport  with  the  Indians,  and  has  known  several  hundred  to 
be  thus  taken  in  a  day.  When  "aptured  alive,  it  does  not  scream 
like  the  common  gray  rabbit,  (Lcpiis  sylvaticus.) 

This  species  inhabits  the  plains  exclusively,  and  seems  par- 
ticularly fond  of  the  vicinity  of  the  aromatic  wormwood.  Imme- 
diately as  you  leave  these  bushes,  in  journeying  towards  the  sea, 
you  lose  sight  of  the  hare. — Towns,  in  lit.  to  Dr.  Bachman. 


m 


328 


API'ENDIX. 


WoHMwooD  Hare. 
Lepus  *artemcsia,  (Baciiman.)     Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
vol.  8,  part  I.     I-iks,  of  the  Walla-walla,  and  Nez  Perces  In- 
dians. 

"  Characters. — Small ;  of  a  gray  color,  with  pale  rusty  on 
the  back  of  the  neck  and  legs.  Tail  above,  the  color  of  the  body; 
beneath  white.  Under  parts  of  the  neck,  and  lower  surface  of 
the  body  white,  all  the  fur  being  gray  at  the  base.  Ears  as  long 
as  the  head  ;  tarsus  well  clothed. 

Description. — The  head  is  much  arched — upper  incisors 
deeply  grooved.  The  color  of  this  species  is  grizzled  black,  and 
brownish-white  above.  The  fur  is  soft,  pale  gray  at  the  base, 
shaded  into  brownish  externally,  annulated  with  brownish-white 
near  the  apex,  and  black  at  the  tips.  Under  parts,  and  inner 
sides  of  limbs,  white,  the  hairs  pale  gray  at  the  base.  Neck,  with 
the  hairs  on  the  sides  and  under  parts,  gray,  tipped  with  brown- 
ish-white, having  a  faint  yellow  hue.  Chin  and  throat  grayish- 
white,  the  hairs  being  gray  at  the  base,  and  white  at  their  tips. 
The  whole  back  of  the  neck,  and  limbs  exteriorly,  of  a  pale, 
rusty  fawn  color ;  those  on  the  neck  uniform  to  the  base.  Feet 
beneath,  a  very  pale,  soiled  yellow-brown.  Tail,  colored  above 
as  the  back,  with  an  admixture  of  grayish-black  hairs  ;  beneath 
white.  Ears  externally  on  t'lo  anterior  part,  colored  as  the 
crown  of  the  head,  posteriorly  ashy-white ; — at  the  apex  mar- 
gined with  black ;  internally  nearly  naked,  excepting  on  the 
posterior  part,  where  they  are  grizzled  with  grayish-black  and 
white  ;  in  the  apical  portion,  they  are  chiefly  white. 

Dimensions. 
Length  from  nose  to  root  of  tail, 
From  heel  to  point  of  longest  nail,    . 
Height  of  ear  externally, 
From  ear  to  point  of  nose. 
Tail,  (vertebrsE,)  about. 
Do.  to  end  of  fur,    , 

This  email  hare,  inhabits  the  wormwood  plains  near  the 
banks  of  the  streams  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Walla-walla.  I 
cannot  define  its  range  with  any  degree  of  certainty,  but  I  have 


12 

inches 

0 

3 

It 

2 

2 

t( 

8 

2 

<( 

7 

1 

(t 

1 

1 

(( 

9 

lined. 


((  » 


lines, 
« 


APPENDIX. 


320 


reason  to  believe  tliat  it  is  very  contracted,  never  having  met 
with  it  many  miles  from  this  locality.  It  is  here  abundant,  but 
very  shy  and  retired,  keeping  constantly  in  the  densest  worm> 
wood  bushes,  and  leaping,  with  singular  speed,  from  one  to 
another,  when  pursued.  I  have  never  seen  it  dart  away,  and 
run  to  a  great  distance  like  other  hares.  I  found  it  very  difficult 
to  shoot  this  animal  for  the  reasons  stated.  I  had  been  residing 
at  Fort  Walla-walla  for  several  weeks,  and  had  procured  only 
two,  when,  at  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Pambrun,  I  collected  a  party 
of  a  dozen  Indians  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  sallied 
forth.  We  hunted  through  the  wormwood,  within  about  a  mile 
of  the  fort,  and  in  a  few  hours  returned,  bringing  eleven  hares. 
The  keen  eyes  of  the  Indians  discovered  the  little  creatures 
squatting  under  the  bushes,  when,  to  a  white  man,  they  would 
have  been  totally  invisible.  This  hare  when  wounded  and  taken, 
screams  like  our  common  species. — Towns,  in  lit.  to  Dr. 
Bachman. 

Oregon  Flying  Squirrel. 

Pteromys  *  Oregonensis,  (Bachman,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat. 
Sciences,  Vol.  8  part,  I. 

"Characters. — Intermediate  in  size,  between  P.  volucella,  and 
the  northern  P.  sahrinus  ;  ears  longer  than  the  latter  species ; 
fur  more  compact ;  the  lobe  of  the  flying  membrane  joining  the  fore 
foot,  much  longer  in  proportion,  making  that  membrane  broader  ; 
foot  larger ;  general  color  above  brown ;  beneath  yellowish- 
white. 

Description. — All  the  fur  of  this  species  is  deep  gray  at  the 
base ;  that  of  the  back  tipped  with  yellowish-brown ;  tail,  pale 
brown  .above,  dusky  towards  the  extremity ;  beneath,  brownish- 
white.  Whiskers  numerous,  and  very  long,  chiefly  of  a  black 
color,  and  grayish  at  the  tips.  Hairs  covering  the  flying  mem- 
brane chiefly  black,  most  of  them  slightly  tipped  with  pale 
brown ;  feet  dusky ;  around  the  eyes  blackish ;  ears  with  mi- 
nute, adpressed  brown  hairs  externally,  and  brownish-white 
:  internally. 

This  species  diflcrs  much  from  P.  sahrinus  in  several  very 

striking  particulars.     Although  a  smaller  animal,  the  bono  of  the 

wrist,  which  supports  the  flying  membrane,  is  eleven  and  a  half 

42 


3»U 


APrKNIUX. 


lines  in  length,  wlii.st  llmt  of  the  formor  is  only  nine ;  tlius  the 
smallest  aniiiinl  has  I'lc  largest  flying  mombrani!.  The  fur  of 
1*.  sahrinus  is  much  fhc  longest.  The  fur  on  the  belly  of  the 
latter  is  white,  whilst  that  of  orcgoncnsin  has  un  ochrcous  tinge. 
The  hairs  on  the  tail  of  P.  sabrinus  arc  only  slightly  tinged  with 
lead  color  at  the  roots,  whilst  in  orrgoneima  it  extends  to  half 
the  length  of  the  hairs.  The  greater  length  and  less  breadth, 
however,  of  il",  ear  of  the  latter,  is  a  sufficient  mark  of  distinc- 
tion. 

From  our  little  Pteromys  volucella,  the  ditlbrence  is  so  great, 
that  it  is  unnecessary  to  institute  a  particular  comparison.  Be- 
sides being  much  larger  than  our  little  species,  and  not  possess- 
ing the  beautiful  downy-white  on  the  be«ly,  the  two  spe- 
cies may  be  instantly  detected,  in  the  volticclla  having  its  hairs 
white  to  the  roots,  which  is  not  the  case  in  the  other  species. 

Dimensions. 
Length  from  point  of  nose  to  root  of  tail, 

"  tail  to  point  of  fur. 
Height  of  ear  posteriorly. 
Breadth  between  the  outer  edges  of  the  flying 

membrane,         ..... 
Longest  hind  toe,  including  nail,     . 
Lo'.igcst  fore  toe,  including  nail, 
From  heel  to  point  of  nail, 

"     nose  to  ear, 

This  species  inhabits  the  pine  woods  of  the  Columbia,  near 
the  sea  ;  very  rare.     Habits  of  the  P.  volucella. — Towns,  in  lit. 

Townsend's  Goi'uer. 

Geomys  *Townsendii,  (^Richardson's  manuscripts,)  Journal 
Acad.  Nat.  Sciences,  Vol.  8,  Part  I. 

General  color  very  pale  gray  above,  with  a  faint  yellowish 
wash;  muzzle  dusky-gray;  under  parts  grayish-white;  chin 
pure  white.  Tail  and  feet  white ;  the  former  grayish  above.  Hairs 
of  the  back  very  pale  gray  at  the  base,  pale  yellow  at  the  apex, 
the  extreme  tip  cinereous.  Teeth  yellowish-white.  Upper  inci- 
sors with  a  faint  groove  near  the  internal  margin.  Claws  and 
fore  feet  moderate,  white. 


6  inches 

,  8  lines- 

6      " 

0     " 

• 

7     " 

8      " 

0     " 

• 

5\  " 

. 

5i  « 

1      " 

6d  •« 

1      " 

6     "" 

APPENDIX. 


8tl 


7  inches,  6  lines. 
2     ««         9     " 
1     •«         3i  " 


Dimensions, 
From  nose  to  tail, 
Tail,        .... 
Tarsus,    .... 
Central  claw  of  fore  foot, 
From  nose  to  car,  . 

The  specimen  was  procured  by  Mr.  Townsend  on  the  Colum- 
biu  river. 

I  am  obliged  to  confess  that  I  should  not  have  ventured  to  pub- 
lish  this  species  as  distinct  from  G.  borealis,  on  my  own  respon- 
sibility. The  discriminating  eye  of  Dr.  Richardson,  however, 
who  has  studied  this  genus  more  carefully  than  I  have  had  an 
opportunity  of  doing,  may  have  detected  marks  of  difference 
which  I  have  not  been  able  to  discover. — Bach. 


CATALOGUE  OF  BIRDS, 

FOUND  IN  THE  TEBMITOnY  OF  THE  OKEGON. 


(Cj"  The  new  species  are  designated  by  an  •  preceding  the  vulgar  name. 

Californian  Vulture,  Cathartcs  californianus. 

Turkey  Buzzard,  or  Vulture,  Cathartes  aura. 

Golden  Eagle,  Falco  chrysa'etos. 

White-headed,  or  Bald  Eagle,  Falco  leucocephalus. 

Fish  Hawk,  Falco  hali«Btus. 

Sparrow  Hawk,  Falco  sparverius. 

Pigeon  Hawk,  Falco  columbarius. 

Merlin,  Falco  cesalon.  , 

Great-footed,  or  Duck  Hawk,  Falco  peregrimis. 

Sharp-shinned  Hawk,  Falco  velox. 

Hen  Harrier,  or  Marsh  Hawk,  Falco  cyaneus. 

Cooper's  Hawk,  Falco  Cooper ii. 

Red-tailed  Hawk,  Falco  borealis% 

Black  Hawk,  Falco  sancti-johannes,  , 

Rough-legged  Hawk,  or  Falcon,  Falco  lagopus. 

Common  Hawk,  or  Buzzard,  Falco  (huteo)  vulgaris. 


3.32 


API'ENDIX. 


\ 


Winter  Hawk,  or  Falcon,  Falco  hycmalis. 

Great  Cinereous  Owl,  Strix  cinerea. 

Orcat-horncd  Owl,  Strix  virginianu. 

Red  Owl,  Strix  agio. 

Mottled  Owl,  Strix  nwvia.  • 

Long-cared  Owl,  Strix  otus. 

Short-cared  Owl,  Strix  brachyotvs. 

Little  Owl,  Strix  acadica. 

Tcngmalm'ti  Owl,  Strix  Tengmalmi. 

Burrowing  Owl,  Strix  cunicularia. 

Passerine  Owl,  Strix  pasaerinoides. 

Meadow  Lark,  or  Starling,  Sturnun  ludoeicianux. 

Red-winged  Starling,  or  Oriole,  Icterus  phamiceua, 

Bullock's  Oriole,  Icterus  Bullocki.  , 

Rusty  Blackbird,  or  Graklc,  Quiscalus  ferrugineua. 

Raven,  Corvua  corax. 

Common  Crow,  Corvua  corone. 

Fish  Crow,  Corvua  oaaifragus. 

Magpie,  Corvua  pica. 

Clark's  Crow,  Corvua  columbianua. 

Steller's  Jay,  Garrulua  Stelleri. 

Ultramarine  Jay,  Garrulua  ultramarinus. 

Canada  Jay,  Garrulua  canadensis. 

Black-capt  Titmouse,  Parua  atricapillus. 
•Chestnut-backed  Titmouse,  Parua  rufescena,  (Townsenu.) 
*Brown-headcd  Titmouse,  Parua  minimus,  (Townbend,) 

Cedar  Bird,  or  Cherry  Bird,  Bomhycilla  carolinensia. 

Great  American  Shrike,  Lanius  aeptentrionalia. 

Loggerhead  Shrike,  Laniua  ludovicianua. 

Tyrant  Flycatcher,  or  King  Bird,  Muacicapa  tyrannua. 

Cooper's  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  Cooperi. 

Pewit  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  fuaca. 

Wood  Pewee  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  virena. 

Small  Green-crested  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  acadica. 

Traill's  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  Trailli. 

Little  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  pusilla,  (Swainson.) 

Arkansas  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  verticalis. 

Say's  Flycatcher,  Muacicapa  Saya. 

Yellow-bieasted  Chat,  Icteria  viridis. 


AI'I'KNUIX. 


X\H 


SEND.) 
«D.) 


1U8. 


a. 


Sdlilary  I'Mycatclior,  or  Vi.\iu,  Virco  tolUariut. 

VVurbliii^  l''lyi;at(;liur,  ur  V'iruo,  Vireo  gihut. 

Whilu'ttyinl  l*'lycatchor,  or  Vireo,  Vireo  novehoracr.n»i$. 
*Muuiitiiiii  Moi'kiiiK  Hird,  Orphem  montanut,  (Tuwnhmno.) 

Atiiitriiiiiii  Uobin,  Turdu»  migratoriua. 

Vuryitig  'riirunli,  'Vurdua  nmoia. 

lloriiiit  Tliruith,  'Arr/uA  minor. 

VVilNori*N  'I'uwiiy  Thruah,  'furdua  Wiltonii. 

tluldiiii.rrowiioil  ThriiBh,  Ttirduc  aum-'^pillua. 
*Wliitu  tniind  Tlinmht  {not  in  the  collection.) 
•TowiiHcnd'ii  'riiruNli,  Ptiliogonya  Towniient'i,{\vHVW\n,) 
*Mort<tii'M  VVulor  Oiiznl,  Cinclua  Mortoni,  (TowNMkiNii.) 
^C'olniiiliiiiti  VVntnr  Oiiznl,  Cinclua  7WnM'm/(,  (Ai/uuiioN.) 

HluO'oyiid  Ynllow  Warbler,  Sylvia  ceatiea, 

Maryhind  Yidlnw-tliront,  Sylvia  irichaa. 
*Tol'nio'H  Wnrlilor,  Sylvia  Tolmei,  (Townobnu.) 

CiofL/^in  Wnrblor,  Sylvia  axurea. 

WiUon'N  (Jmnn-black  Capt  Warbler,  Sylvia  WilHoni, 

OraiiKfl.rrttwncd  Warbler,  Sylvia  celata, 
*IIcrmit  Warblcir,  Sylvia  occidentalia,  (Townhrni).) 
•IMa(!k.flirontod  (irt\y\Vath\cT,Sylvianigreacena,{'l'uwmK^ii.) 
*Aii(lubori'n  Warblor,  Sylvia  Auduboni,  (Townkknd.) 
*Town«rndN  Warblor,  Sylvia  Townaendi,  (Nurr ai.i<.) 
•Auh'hondod  Warblor,  Sylvia  {not  deacrihed.) 

Uuby'nrownod  Wren,  Regvlua  calendula. 

Oolduii'croMtod  Wron,  Regulua  criatatua. 

CJornmon  Wron,  Troglodytea  eedon. 

Winter  Wron,  Troglodytea  hyemalia. 

Howlck'n  Wren,  Troglodytea  Bcwicki. 

Rocky-mountain  Wren,  Troglodytea  obaohta. 

Arctic  Hlue  Hird,  Sialia  arctica. 
*Wo«torn  Hluo  Hird,  Sialia  occidentalia,  (Townsknij.) 

Brown  L&rk,  Anthua  apinoletta. 

Shoro  Lark,  Alanda  cornuta,  (WiLaox.) 

Snow  Hunting,  Emberixa  nivalis. 

LouiHinna  Tanngor,  Tanagra  ludoviciana. 
•Brown  l^ongNpur,  Plectrophanes  Townsendi,  (AuDinioN.) 

LuKuli  Finch,  Fringilla  amcena. 

Whitu-crowned  Hunting,  or  Finch,  Fringilla  leucophrya. 


M 


334 


APPENDIX. 


Bay-winged  Bunting,  or  Grass  Finch,  Fringilla  graminea. 

Chipping  Sparrow,  Fringilla  socialia. 

Amencan  Goldfinch,  Fringilla  triatis.  -^' 

Piae  Fincli,  Fringilla  pinus. 

Purple  Finch,  Fringilla  purpurea. 

Crimson-fronted  Bullfinch,  Fringilla  fronfalis. 

Arctic  Ground  Finch,  Fringilla  arctica. 

Savannah  Finch,  Fringilla  savanna.  '■> 

♦Oregon  Snow  Finch,  Fringilla  Oregona,  (Townsend.) 

Ash-colored  Finch,  Fringilla  cinerea,  (Gm.) 

Evening  Grosbeak, /Vtng-iV/a  wes/>er/i/jo. 

Mottled,  or  Spotted  Grosbeak,  Fringilla  maculata.         -  - 
*Green-tailed  Finch,  Fringilla  (not  described.)  ;  i 

Black-headed  Finch,  Fringilla  artricapilla,  (Gm.)  " 

Lark  Finch,  Fringilla  grammaca. 

Tree  Sparrow,  Fringilla  canadensis. 

Field  Sparrow,  Fringilla  pusilla. 

American  Crossbill,  Loxia  curvirostra. 

Yellow-billed  Cuckoo,  Coccyzus  americanus. 

Red-shafted  Woodpecker,  Picus  mexicanus. 

Pileated  Woodpecker,  Picus  pileattis. 

Lewis  Woodpecker,  Picus  torquatus. 

Red-breasted  Woodpecker,  Picus  ruber. 
•Black,  White-Banded  Wookpecker,  (not  in  the  collection.) 
*BIack,  Red-Backed  Woodpecker,  (not  in  the  collection.) 
*Harris'  Woodpecker,  Pictis  Harrisi,  (ArnuBoN.) 

Downy  Woodpecker,  Picus  pubescens. 

White-breasted  Nuthatch,  Sitta  carolinensis. 

Red-bellied  Nuthatch,  Sitta  canadensis. 

Common  Creejjer,  Certhia  familiaris. 

Nootka  Humming  Bird,  Trochilus  rufus.  ^ 

American  Kingfisher,  Alcedo  alcyon. 

Barn  Swallow,  Hirundo  rufa. 

Marten,  Hirundo  purpurea. 

Cliff,  or  Republican  Swallow,  Hirundo  fulva. 

White-bellied  Swallow,  Hirundo  bicolor. 

Bank  Swallow,  Hirundo  riparia. 

Violet-green  Swallow,  Hirundo  thalussina. 
*Vaux's  Chimney  Swallow,  Cypselns  Fattxi,  (Townsend.) 


APPENDIX. 


335 


nnea. 


') 


ion.) 


3ND.) 


Night  HsiV/k,  Caprimulgt.a  virginianus. 
Band-tail  Pigeon,  Columbafasciata. 
Passenger  Pigeon,  Columba  migratoria. 
Turtle  Dove,  Columba  carolinensis. 

Plumed  Partridge,  Perdix  plumifera,  (Gouid.)  ' 

*Long-tailed  Black  Pheasant,  (not  in  the  collection.) 
Ruffed  Grouse  or  Pheasant,  Tetrao  umbellus, 
Dusky  Grouse,  Tetrao  obacurus.  •   ,      . 

Cock  of  the  piama,  Tetrao  urophasianus.  .'..  . 

Spotted  Grouse,  Tetrao  canadensis. 
Sharp-tailed  Grouse,  Tetrao  phasianellua. 
White-tailed  Grouse,  Tetrao  leucurus. 

Water  Birds. 

*White-legged  Oyster-catcher,  Hcematopus  Bachmani,  (Atrn.) 

Killdeer  Plover,  Charadriua  vociferus, 
*Rocky  Mountain  Plover,  Charadriua  montanus,  (Townsend.) 

Hooping  Crane,  or  Stork,  Grua  americana. 

Brown,  or  Sandhill  Crane,  Grua  canadenaia. 

Great  Blue  Heron,  Ardea  herodiaa. 

Night  Heron,  Ardea  nycticorax. 

American  Avocet,  Recurviroatra  OTnericana. 

Long-billed  Curlew,  Numeniua  longiroatria. 

Esquimaux  Curlew,  Numeniua  borealia. 

Red-backed  Sandpiper,  Tringa  alpina. 

Little  Sandpiper,  Tringa  Wilsonii. 

SemipaltT.ated  Sandpiper,  Tringa  semipalmata. 
*Townsend's  Sandpiper,  Frinca  Townsendi,  (AuDUBoi«.) 

Spotted  Sandpiper,  Totanua  macularia. 

Yellow-shanks  Snipe,  Totanua  fiavipea. 

Semipalmated  Snipe,  oi*  Willet,  Totanua  semipalmatua. 

Great  Marbled  Godwit,  Limosa  fedocC. 

Common  American  Snipe,  Scolopax  ff'ilaonii. 

Red-breasted  Snipe,  Scolopax  grisea. 

Soree,  or  Rail,  Rallua  carolinus. 

Common  Coot,  Fulica  americana. 

Hyperborean  Phalarope,  Phaluropus  hyperboreus. 

Wilson's  Phalarope,  Phalaropua  JVilaonii. 

Red  Phalarope,  Phalaropua  fulicariua. 

Little  Grebe,  Podicepa  minor. 


moft 


APPENDIX. 


Red-necked  Grebe,  Podiceps  rubricollis. 

Black  Tern,  Sterna  nigra.  '• 

Glaucous  Gall,  Larus  glaucous. 

Common  Gnll,  Larus  canus.  i  i- 

Ring-billed  Gull,  Larua  zonorrhynchus. 

Wilson's  Stormy  Petrel,  •  Thalassidroma  Wilsonii. 

Brown  Albatross,  Diomedeafuaca.  , 

White,  or  Snow  Goose,  .Snaer  hyperboreus. 

White-fronted  Goose,  Anaer  albifrons. 

Black-headed  Goose,  Anaer  canadensis. 

Hutchins's  Brant  Goose,  Anser  Hutchinaii. 

Bewick's  Swan,  Cygnus  Bewickii. 

Trumpeter  Swan,  Cygnus  buccinator,  (Richardson.) 

Mallard  Duck,  Jinas  boschas. 

American  Widgeon,  Anas  Americana. 

Summer,  or  Wood  Duck,  Anas  aponsa. 

Green- winged  Teal,  Anas  crecca. 

Shoveller  Duck,  Anas  clypeata. 

Dusky  Duck,  Anaa  obscura. 

Pintail  Duck,  Anas  acuto. 

Black,  or  Surf  Duck,  Fuligula  perspicillata.. 

Blue-bill,  or  Scaup  Duck,  Fuligula  marila. 

Canvass-back  Duck,  Fuligula  valisneria. 

Tufted,  or  Ring-necked  Duck,  Fuligula  rufitorques. 

Harlequin  Duck,  Fuligula  histrionica. 

Golden-eye  Duck,  Fuligula  elangula. 

Long-tailed  Duck,  Fuligula  glacialis. 

Goosander,  Mergus  merganser. 

Hooded,  or  Crested  Merganser,  Mergus  cucullatus. 

White  Pelican,  Pelecanus  onocrotalus. 

Brown  Pelican,  Pelecanus  fuscus.  ^ 

Black  Cormorant,  Phalacrocorax  carbo. 
*Violet-green    Cormorant,  Phalacrocorax  splendens,  (Town- 
send.) 
*Townsend's    Cormorant,   Phalacrocorax    Townsendi,  (Au- 
dubon.) 

Loon,  or  Great  Northern  Diver,  Colymhtis  glar'alis. 

Black  Guillemot,  Uria  grylle. 
*Slender-billed  Guillemot,  Uria  Townsendi.    (Audubon.) 


ArPHNItlX. 


m 


CuBBrNUT'llACIKIlD  TiTMOVSE. 

Parua  *rufe»cen8,  (Townnrno,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  7,  part  II.,.  p.  190,  AiululionV  Birdsof  America,  Vol.  4,  pi. 
353.     Male  and  female.    'Pntooquulla  of  the  Chinook  Indians. 

Bill  black ;  head  and  throat  sooty-brown,  or  dark  umber ;  a 
white  line  from  the  bill  uiidt^r  (ho  eye,  extending  to  the  hind- 
head,  where  it  incroaaoi  coHdidombly  in  breadth  ;  whole  back 
and  rump  chestnut;  wings  ond  omarginate  tail  dusky;  the 
exterior  edges  of  the  feathers  of  the  former,  as  well  as  the  coverts, 
whitish;  breast,  belly  and  v«i«t,  gray ish-white,  the  base  of  the 
plumage  blackish  ;  flanks  chtmtnut;  legs  and  feet  blue.  Length 
scarcely  4|  inches ;  extent  of  wings  Od  iiiches.  The  sexes  are 
very  nearly  alike. 

Inhabits  the  Columbia  fivor  |  common,  gregarious.  Voice 
s)mewhat  similar  to  P.  atrimpillm^  but  sharper  and  more 
::queaking. 


BROWNOIRADHn   TiTMOtfSK. 

Parus  *minimu8,  (TowNSSNli,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  7,  part  II.,  p,  190.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America,  Vol.  IV.  pi. 
353.  Male,  female  and  nest.  A-ka-ke-tok  of  the  Chinook  Indians. 
Bill  short,  stout,  and  entirely  black  ;  top  of  the  head  light-brown 
or  rust  color,  paler  on  the  chocks  )  whole  back  and  rump  cine- 
reous-gray ;  the  wings  and  tail  einoroous-brown,  the  feathers  of 
the  former  edged  exteriorly  and  interiorly  with  light  gray  ;  third 
and  fourth  primaries  longest ;  tail  remarkably  long,  of  twelve 
rather  narrow  feathers ;  whole  lower  parts  gray,  the  belly  and 
flanks  inclining  to  rust.  Legs  and  fe@t  blackish.  Irides  yellow. 
Whole  length  4  inches ;  length  of  tdll  'i  inches  ;  extent  of  wings 
5  inches.  The  male  and  female  ftro  very  similar  in  size  and 
markings. 

I  first  observed  this  littlo  N|)0(;ioi  on  the  Columbia  river  in 
May,  1835,  and  procured  ft  pair.  They  hopped  through  the 
bushes,  and  hung  from  the  twigs  in  the  manner  of  other  titmice, 
twittering  all  the  time,  with  a  rapid  enunciation,  resembling  the 
words,  tsish-tgiah-taee-taee.  11  pen  my  return,  I  found  that  Mr. 
Nuttall  had  observed  the  same  birds  n  few  hours  previously  in 
another  place.     He  said  that  they  (Voquently  flew  to  the  ground 

48 


886 


APFRNDIX. 


from  the  bushes,  whore  they  appuared  to  institute  a  rapid  search 
for  insects,  and  quickly  returned  to  the  perch,  emitting  their 
weak,  querulous  note  the  whole  time  without  intermission.  The 
stomachs  of  tliose  birds  contained  fragments  of  minute  coleop- 
terous insects,  and  in  the  ovary  of  the  female  was  an  egg  nearly 
ready  for  expulsion. 

The  nest,  which  Mr.  N.  found  n  few  days  afterwards,  is  a  very 
curious  and  Ixiiiutiful  fabric,  somewhat  like  that  of  the  bottle  tit 
of  Fluropc,  Ixiing  from  eight  to  nine  inches  in  length,  formed  of 
tine  bent,  lined  with  huir,  and  covered  externally  with  mosses, 
the  hole  for  entrance  near  the  top.  It  was  suspended  from  a 
low  bush,  and  contained  seven  eggs,  very  small  and  beautifully 
shaped,  and  pure  white. 

Mountain  Mocking-bird. 

OrpheuH  *montanu»,  (Townsend,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sci- 
ences, Vol.  7,  pud  11.,  p.  103.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  30U.     Male. 

Mandibles  black,  the  lower  flesh-color  at  base ;  whole  upper 
parts  dull  grayish-cinoreous,  slightly  barred  transversely  with 
white ;  flexure  of  the  wing  and  axillarics  whitish ;  third  pri- 
mary longest,  first  and  fiAh  nearly  equal ;  tail  long,  rounded, 
of  a  dark  cinereous  color,  the  three  lateral  feathers  with  a  large 
white  spot  on  the  tip  of  the  inner  vanes ;  lower  parts  white,  with 
longitudinal,  oblanccolatc  spots  of  black,  largest  and  most  nu- 
merous on  the  breast ;  a  line  formed  of  small  black  spots  extends 
from  the  base  of  the  lower  mandible  on  either  side,  down  upon 
the  breast;  flanks,  vent, and  inferior  tail-coverts  whitish,  strongly 
tinged  with  bay.  Legs  and  feet  yellowish  flesh-color.  Irides 
bright  yellow.     Length  8  inches. 

Female  unknown. 

Inhabits  the  banks  of  the  Platte  river,  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  v 

Townsend's  Thhusii. 

*Ptiliogonya  *'foienaetuli,  (Audubon.)  Birds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  410.     Female. 

Bill  black ;  whole  upper  parts  of  a  dark,  smoke-gray  color, 
inclining  to  yellowish ;  tail  somewhat  emarginate,  long,  the  fea- 
thers black,  except  the  two  middle  ones,  which  are  of  the  same 
color  as  the  bark,  the  outer  one  almost  wholly  white,  and  the 


Rocky 


AI'l'UNDIX. 


339 


two  next  largely  tipped  with  white  ;  wings  blackish,  the  feathers 
broadly  margined  with  light  grayish-cinereous;  a  triangular  s[>ot 
of  yellowish-rufous  below  the  lesser  coverts,  which  is  scarcely 
visible  when  the  wing  is  closed ;  lower  parts  nearly  the  same 
color  as  the  back,  but  lighter;  vent,  and  inferior  tail-coverts  yel- 
lowish-rusty. Logs  and  feet  blackiah-brown.  Irides  dark  hazel. 
Length  Tj  inches.  '  ' 

Of  this  singular  bird  I  know  nothing,  but  that  it  was  shot  by 
my  friend  Captain  W.  Brotchie,  of  the  Honorable  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  in  a  pine  forest  near  Fort  George,  (Astoria.)  It  was 
the  only  specimen  seen. 

Morton's  Watek  Ouzijl. 

Cinclua  *Mortoni,  (Townsend.)  Audubon's  Birds  of  Ame- 
rica, Vol.  IV.,  pi.  435.     Male. 

Upper  mandible  black ;  lower  brownish-yellow,  the  point  black  ; 
head,  and  neck  above,  dark  cinereous ;    back,  rump  and  tail 


plumbeous ; 


dusky,  plumbeous  on    the  edges,  the   two 


greater  coverts  tipped  with  soiled  white ;  tail  remarkably  short ; 
eyelids  white ;  a  scmi-lunated  spot  of  white  over  the  eye  ;  throat, 
breast,  and  upper  portion  of  the  belly,  grayish-fuscous,  inclining 
to  brown,  and  slightly  banded  transversely  with  blackish  ;  abdo- 
men and  vent,  dull  grayish-plumbeous ;  inferior  tail-coverts,  which 
are  nearly  the  length  of  the  tail,  barred  transversely  with  gray 
and  blackish.  Irides  dark  hazel.  Legs  and  feet  brownish-yel- 
low.    Length  about  5  inches. 

I  have  honored  this  species  with  the  name  of  my  excellent 
friend.  Doctor  Samuel  George  Morton,  of  Philadelphia.  It  was 
shot  by  Captain  W.  Brotchie,  near  Fort  McLoughlin,  on  the 
N.  W.  coast  of  America,  in  latitude  about  49^  N.  He  stated 
that  it  was  common  there,  and  inhabited,  like  the  rest  of  its  tribe, 
the  rapid  fresh  water  streams.  He  procured  but  one  specimen. 
Columbian  VV'ater  Ouzel. 

Ciuclus*Townscndi,  (Audubon.)  Birds  of  America,  Vol.  IV., 
pi.  435.     Female. 

Upper  mandible  black,  the  inferior  edge  bright  yellow  ;  lower, 
yellow,  black  at  the  point;  whole  lower  parts  dark  grayish- 
plumbeous,  rather  lighter  on  the  head ;  a  large  lunate  spot  of 
white  over  the  eye,  which  inclines  toward  the  front ;  wings  dark 
plumbeous,  the  shoulders  lighter ;  the  exterior  vanes  of  the  pri. 


! 


840 


APPKNDIX. 


■f       ^■. 


maries,  secondaries,  and  of  some  of  the  coverts,  grayish-white  ; 
throat,  breast,  and  medial  portion  of  the  belly  dusky -cinereous;  sides 
under  the  wings  and  flanks,  dusky ;  the  whole  inferior  surface  of 
the  body  is  banded  transversely  with  blackish  ;  the  bands  upon 
the  throat  are  broken,  and  not  well  defined,  but  as  they  approach 
the  tail  they  become  more  distinct ;  lower  tail-coverts  with 
strongly  marked  alternate  transverse  lines  of  blackish  and  white. 
The  tail  is  much  longer  in  proportion  than  that  of  the  preceding 
species.  Irides  dark  hazel.  Legs  and  feet  bright  yellow.  Length 
about  7  inches.  •         « 

This  fine  bird  inhabits  the  swiflly  running  streams  of  fresh 
water  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Vancouver.  It  is  a  very  scarce 
species,  as  in  all  my  peregrinations  I  have  met  with  but  two  in- 
dividuals, only  one  of  which  I  was  enabled  to  procure. 


This  I  observed  swimming  about 


the   rapids  of  the 


stream,  occasionally  flying  for  short  distances  over  the  surface, 
and  then  diving  into  it,  and  reappearing  af\cr  a  long  interval. 
Occasionally  it  would  alight  on  the  stones,  and  at  such  times 
jerked  the  tail  in  the  manner  of  some  of  the  sandpipers.  I  did 
not  hear  it  utter  any  note. 

Hermit  Wahbleh. 

Sylvia  *occide.ntalis,  (Townsend.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat. 
Sciences,  Vol.  7,  part  II.,  p.  190.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  395.  Male  and  female. 

The  bill  is  wholly  black  ;  the  frontlet,  crown,  and  sides  of  the 
head  yellow,  the  former  rather  sparingly  dotted  with  blackish 
near  the  nape,  where  the  yellow  color  almost  disappears,  by  the 
increase  in  the  size  of  the  spots  ;  upper  parts  grayish,  thickly 
spotted  with  black,  and  most  of  the  feathers  tinged  with  olive ; 
the  rump  is  somewhat  lighter,  having  few  or  no  spots,  and  more 
strongly  tinged  with  light  olive ;  wings  cinereous,  with  two  bands 
of  white;  tail  darker,  the  three  lateral  feathers  with  white  on  their 
inner  vanes ;  throat  deep  black ;  whole'  lower  parts  white.  Legs  and 
feet  blackish,  the  soles  yellow.    Length  -5  inches.  Extent  7  inches. 

The  female  differs  from  the  male  in  having  the  yellow  of  the 
crown  and  cheeks  less  bright,  the  dark  spots  upon  the  head  are 
larger  and  more  numerous ;  the  back  is  of  a  lighter  tint ;  the 
black  centres  of  the  feathers  smaller,  and  the  throat  wants  the 
jetty  black  which  is  so  conspicuous  in  the  male. 


Ai>P£NUIX. 


341 


I  shot  a  single  pair  of  these  birds  in  a  pine  forest  on  the  Co- 


lumbia 


flittii 


lumbia  river,  on  the  28th  of  May,  1835.     Tlicy  wore 

about  among  the  pine  trees,  very  actively  engaged  in  searching 

for  insects,  and  frequently  hanging  from  the  boughs  like  titmice. 

BtACK-TUROATED    GrAY    VVaBBLEH. 

Sylvia  *nig-''8ce  "ownsend.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sci- 
ences, Vol.  7  't  II,  .91.  Audubon's  B.  ■■'.■■  i  America, 
Vol.  IV,  pi.  395,  male. 

The  bill  is  black,  and  stout ;  crown  and  hind  head  black,  the 
feathers  edged  with  grayish-plumbeous ;  a  line  from  the  lower 
mandible  on  each  side  of  the  head,  extending  to  the  neck,  white; 
a  similar  broad  white  line  above  the  checks,  running  parallel 
with  the  first,  and  approaching  it  on  the  neck ;  a  small  bright 
yellow  spot  on  the  lores ;  upper  parts  grayish-plumbeous,  the 
back  and  upper  tail-coverts  with  a  few  oblanceolate  spots  of 
black;  wings  and  tail  dusky,  the  former  with  two  white  bands; 
and  the  three  exterior  feathers  of  the  latter  with  white  on  their 
inner  vanes ;  throat  and  pectoral  collar  black ;  flanks  with  nu- 
merous spots  of  black  ;  axillaries  grayish-white ;  belly  and  vent 
white,  with  a  tinge  of  yellowish.  Legs  and  feet  dusky-brown. 
Length  nearly  5  inches.     Extent  of  wings  7  inches. 

This  species  is  not  uncommon  in  the  forests  of  oak  on  the  Co- 
lumbia river.  It  is,  however,  singularly  retired  and  seden- 
tary. Its  note  is  a  rather  feeble,  but  agreeable  warble. 
Sings  chiefly  in  the  morning  early  ;  silent  at  mid'day.  I  have 
reason  to  believe,  that  at  least  a  few  pairs  breed  on  the  Columbia, 
but  I  have  never  been  so  fortunate  as  to  find  the  nest. 

Townsend's  Wahbler. 
Sylvia  *  Tojcnsenrft, (Nuttali-,)  Jour.  Acad.  Nat.  Sci.  Vol.  7,  pt. 
II.,  page  191.  Audubon's  Birds  ofAmerica.Vol.  IV.  pi.  393.  Male. 
The  crown,  lores,  a  broad  patch  through  the  eye  to  the  hind- 
head,  and  throat,  deep  black,  the  first  thickly  touched  towards 
the  back  part,  with  greenish ;  back  and  rump  greenish- 
yellow,  spotted  all  over  with  black,  the  spots  somewhat 
concealed  by  the  recumbent  plumage  ;  wings  dusky-cinereous, 
edged  with  grayish  lead-color,  and  crossed  by  two  ra- 
ther broad  bands  of  white ;  tail  emarginate,  of  twelve  dusky 
feathers,  the  three  lateral  ones,  with  white  on  their  inner 
vanes ;  over  the  eye,  from  the  bill  to  the  hind-head,  is  a  broad 


342 


Al'PKNUlX. 


line  of  rich  yellow;  a  similar  yellow  line  from  the  lower  mandi- 
ble, round  to  the  buck  of  the  neck,  joining  the  first,  and  enclos> 
ing  the  black  patch  ;  a  spot  below  the  eye,  also  yellow ;  breast 
yellow:  flanks  marked  with  >t,ilow,  black,  and  white,  the  black 
predominating ;  axillaries,  belly  and  vent,  pure  white ;  bill  and 
lect  black,  the  soles  of  the  latter,  yellow.  Length  5  inches. 
Extent  of  wings  7  inches. 

I  procured  but  one  specimen  of  this  beautiful  bird,  on  the  Co- 
lumbia river,  in  the  spring  of  1635.  Early  in  autumn  of  the  same 
year,  I  shot  another  male,  in  a  somewhat  plainer  livery. 

It  does  not  breed  there,  and  I  know  nothing  of  its  habits. 

Audubon's  Warhler. 

Sylvia  *Auduboni,  (Townsend.)  Journal  Acad.  Natural 
Sciences,  Vol.  7,  part  II.,  p.  191.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  395.    Male  and  female.  . 

Bill  slender,  black;  upper  parts  light  plumbeous;  crown, 
throat,  rump,  and  sides  under  the  wings,  gamboge  yellow  ;  lores, 
and  a  broad  space  behind  and  below  the  eye,  including  the  auri- 
culars,  black ;  a  white  -  oot  above  and  below  the  eye ;  feathers 
of  the  back  with  lo  pointed  spots  of  black,  occupying  the 
shafts,  and  a  portion  oi  ach  vane  ;  wings  dusky,  all  the  feathers 
edged  exteriorly  with  grayish ;  wing-coverts  tipped  with  white, 
forming  a  large  spot  below  the  shoulder  ;  upper  tail-coverts  light 
plumbeous,  largely  lipped  with  black ;  tail  long,  nearly  even, 
blackish,  edged  with  dark  gray,  and  every  feather,  except  the 
two  middle  ones,  with  a  large  spot  of  white  on  the  inner  vane, 
near  the  tip  ;  breast  and  sides  of  the  belly,  black ;  iricdial  por- 
tion of  the  latter,  vent  and  inferior  tail-coverts,  white  ;  legs  and 
feet  brownish-black.     Irides  dark  hazel.     Length  5  inches. 

The  female  has  the  upper  parts  brownish,  spotted  and  streaked 
with  black ;  the  yellow  on  the  crown,  rump,  and  flanks  is  more 
restricted  and  fainter  than  in  the  male,  and  it  wants  the  large  bed 
of  white  upon  the  wing ;  throat  white;  breast  and  belly  varied 
with  black  and  white. 

Very  common  on  the  Columbia  river  in  the  spring,  where  it 
breeds.  It  sings  quite  prettily,  but,  like  some  others  of  its  family, 
is  rather  monotonous.  The  note  very  much  resembles  that  of 
S.  coronata,  to  which  the  species  is  closely  allied,  but  unlike  the 
bird  just  named,  it  keeps  in  the  thickest  and  most  impervious 


APPENaiX. 


M8 


clumps  of  buslies  while  singing,  and  is  always  silent  when  en« 
gaged  in  seeking  its  food. 

TotMiE's  Wahbleb. 

Sylvia  *Tolmieif  (Townsend.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  8,  part  I.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America,  Vol.  IV.,  pi.  399. 
Male  and  female.  {S.  Philadelphia  in  the  plate.) 

The  bill  is  brownish  above,  pale  flesh-color  beneath,  darker  at 
the  point ;  lores  and  narrow  frontlet  black ;  whole  lioad,  neck, 
and  upper  part  of  the  breast,  dark  sooty-ash,  the  feathers  of  the 
latter  fringed  with  white ;  upper  parts  greenish  yellow-olive  ;  the 
tail  brighter,  and  of  a  uniform  color,  without  spots;  wings  lightish 
cinereous,  the  exterior  vanes  of  all  the  feathers,  including  the 
coverts,  yellow.  Legs  and  feet  flesh-color.  Length  5  inches. 
Extent  of  wings  63  inches. 

The  female  differs  from  the  male,  chiefly  by  having  the  head 
and  throat  light  ash-color,  without  any  blar^k,  and  in  being  desti- 
tute of  the  black  frontlet  and  lores. 

This  pretty  species,  so  much  resembling  the  curious  S.  philu' 
delphia  of  Wilson,  is  common  in  spring  on  the  Columbia.  It  is 
mostly  solitary,  and  extremely  wary,  keeping  chiefly  in  the 
densest  and  most  impenetrable  thickets,  and  gliding  through  them 
in  a  very  cautious  and  suspicious  manner.  It  may,  however, 
sometimes  be  seen  towards  mid-day,  perched  upon  a  dead  twig 
over  its  favorite  place  of  concealment,  and  at  such  times  it  war- 
bles a  very  sprightly  and  pleasant  little  song,  raising  its  head 
until  the  bill  is  almost  vertical,  and  swelling  its  throat  in  the 
manner  of  many  of  its  relatives. 

I  dedicate  the  species  to  my  friend  W.  F.  Tolmie,  Esq.,  of  Fort 
Vancouver. 

Western  Blue  Bird. 

Sialia  *occ.identalis,  (Townsend,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  7,  part  II.,  p.  188.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America,  Vol.  IV., 
pi.  393.     Mule  and  female. 

Bill  dark  horn  color,  or  nearly  black ;  head,  upper  portion  of 
the  back,  and  throat,  of  a  fine  deep  mazarine  blue,  the  last  some- 
what paler  ;  a  broad  transverse  band  on  the  interscapular  region, 
and  the  whole  of  the  lower  breast  and  belly, dark  rufousbay;  wings, 
back,  upper  tail-coverts  and  tail,  of  the  same  deep  blue  as  the  head  ; 
the  inner  vanes  of  all  the  wins;  feathers  dark  fuscous;  vent  and 


n44 


APPRNDIX. 


lower  taiUcovcrts  white ;  legs  and  feet  blackish  horn-color. 
Irides  dark  hazel.     Length  (3i  inches.  v 

The  Icmulc  hiis  the  up|)er  parts  dark  cinereous,  slightly  waved 
with  blue;  the  shoulders,  primary  quills,  upper  tuiUcoverts  and 
tail,  are  rich  blue,  as  in  the  malt  i  the  greater  coverts  and  in- 
terior edges  of  the  scajjulars  and  seconduritis,  whitish ;  whole 
lower  parts  light  bay.  the  vent  nnd  lower  tail-coverts  white. 
About  half  an  inch  shorter  than  the  male. 

Common  on  the  Columbia  river  in  the  spring.  It  orrives  from 
the  south  early  in  April,  and  about  the  first  week  in  May  com- 
mences building.  The  nest  is  placed  in  the  hollow  of  a  decayed 
tree,  and  is  very  loose  and  unsubstantial.  The  eggs,  four  to  five, 
are  light  blue,  somewhat  larger  than  those  of  the  common  blue 
bird,  {S.  Wihonii.) 

A  flock  of  eight  or  ten  of  these  birds  visited  the  British  fort  on 
the  Columbia,  on  a  fine  day  in  the  winter  of  1835.  They  con- 
fined themselves  chiefly  to  the  fences,  occasionally  flying  to  the 
ground  and  scratching  among  the  snow  for  minute  insects,  the 
fragments  of  which  were  found  in  the  stomachs  of  several  which 
I  killed.  Afler  procuring  an  insect,  the  male  usually  returned 
to  the  fence  again,  and  warbled  for  a  minute  most  delightfully. 
This  note,  although  somewhat  like  that  of  our  common  Wihonii, 
is  still  so  ditferent  as  to  be  easily  recognised.  It  is  equally  sweet 
and  clear,  but  of  so  little  compass,  (at  this  season,)  as  to  be  heard 
only  a  short  distance.  In  the  spring  if  is  louder,  but  it  is  at  all 
times  much  less  strong  than  that  of  the  common  species. 

ClIKSTNIJT-COLOHED    FiNClI. 

Plectrophancs  *ornata,  (Townsend,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat. 
Sciences,  Vol.  7,  part  II.,  p.  189.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  394.  Male. 

Mandibles  pale  flesh-color,  the  upper,  black  along  the  ridge, 
and  both  black  at  tip ;  upper  portion  of  the  head  blaf  k  ;  a  line  of 
white  commences  at  the  nostrils,  and  passes  over  the  eye,  where 
it  is  expanded  so  as  to  form  a  large  semi-lunated  spot,  and  is  con- 
tinued irregularly  back  to  the  nape ;  below  this  and  towards  the 
throat  are  several  irregular  alternate  spots  of  white  and  black  ; 
auriculars,  and  gular  region  faint  rufous ;  a  broad  transverse 
band  of  deep  bay  on  the  hind  part  of  the  neck,  comprehending  a 
portion  of  the  back  ;  upper  part  of  the  body  light  cinereous,  with 


AIM'KNDtX. 


mri 


niimorous  spots  of  dusky  ;  tliosc  spots  run  into  rnch  other  so  as 
to  l)o  Hciirccly  distinj^uislmblo;  wini^s  dusky  ;  first  nnd  second 
primnrios  nearly  equni,  and  lonu;cst ;  upper  i!overts  of  the  wing 
slightly  ciljred  with  cream;  fi  large  transverse  hand  of  white 
upon  the  lower  |)()rtion  of  the  thront,  margining  the  faint  rufous 
of  the  gular  region,  and  joining  th(!  Imy  on  tlm  hind  part  of  the 
neck  ;  breast  and  abdomen  deep  black,  irregularly  wavcMl  with 
cinereous  and  white  ;  vent  and  inferior  tail-covorts  white  ;  tail 
emarginnte,  the  outer  feathers  nearly  all  white;  all  the  others 
with  a  large  portion  of  white,  chielly  on  their  inner  vanes,  the 
tips  dusky.  Legs  and  feet  yellowish-dusky.  Iridcs  dark  hazel. 
Length  5]  inches. 

Female  unknown. 

I'-habits  the  plains  of  the  I'latte  river,  near  the  first  range  of 
the  Rooky  Mountains.  It  appears  to  live  exclusively  upon  the 
ground,  and  is  u  very  rare  and  shy  species.  I  procured  but  one 
specimen. 

Townsend's  GKorrrn  FiNcir,  or  Lonospuh. 

Plcctrophitnes  *Townncndi,  (A'  dihon.)  Uirds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  424.     Female. 

Upper  mandible  cinnamon  ;  lower,  light  yellow  ;  whole  upper 
parts,  and  tail,  dark  rufous ;  wing  feathers  blackish,  edged  with 
yellowish-rufous;  throat,  breast,  and  belly  white,  with  numerous 
irregular  spots  and  blotches  of  dark  brown ;  a  line  of  brown  and 
black  spots  extends  from  the  base  of  the  lower  mandible  on  each 
side,  down  upon  the  throat ;  inferior  portion  of  the  flanks,  vent, 
and  upper  tail-coverts,  yellowish-brown,  with  a  few  spots  of 
black  occupying  the  centre  of  the  feathers.  Legs  and  feet  yel- 
lowish, claws  black.     Iridcs  dark  hazel.     Length  G\  inches. 

This  species  is  common  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Vancou- 
ver on  the  Columbia.  It  inhabits  the  dense  bushes  chiefly  in  the 
vicinity  of  low,  marshy  places,  and  feeds  upon  coleopterous  in- 
sects and  worms,  for  which  it  searches  in  the  ground  by  scratch- 
ing up  the  earth  with  its  feet.  It  is  observed  only  in  the  autumn 
and  winter. 

(Oregon  Snow  Finch. 
Fringilla  *o.-egoaa,  (Townsend.)     Journal  Acad.  Natural 

44 


340 


Ari'KNOU. 


Scioncen,  Vol.  7,  |»art  II.,  poge  188.     Autliibi)ii'H  llirdti  of  Aiiic- 
ricn,  Vol.  IV.,  pi.  »y8.     Mulo  micl  fonmio. 

Tho  bill  is  a  pulu  flesh  color,  tliu  up|)cr  mandible  browniah  at 
tho  point ;  lioad,  ntiok,  und  upper  pnrt  of  tlio  breast,  black  ;  tho 
fuiitliers  slightly  tipped  with  white;  on  the  hind-heud  und  buck 
ol'tho  neck,  are  some  touches  of  brown  or  buy,  mixed  with  tho 
white  sprinkling;  buck  rufous-brown  or  bay;  rump  grayish- 
plumbeous,  slightly  touched  with  buy ;  upper  tuiUcoverts  and 
tail  cinereous,  tho  former  slightly  tipped  with  pale  brown,  the 
outer  vanes  of  the  feathers  of  tho  latter  edged  with  tho  same 
color  ;  first  lalerul  tail-feather  pure  white  ;  second  white,  with  tho 
exception  of  u  small  edging  of  cinereous  on  the  outer  vane,  near 
the  tip  ;  third,  with  u  broad  stripe  of  white  on  tho  inner  vane, 
extending  from  the  point  nearly  to  th(;  base;  wings  dark  cinereous, 
tho  outer  vanes  edged  with  whitish,  the  greater  coverts  and  tei;- 
tials  margined  with  buy  ;  third  and  fourth  primaries  nearly  equal, 
and  longest ;  lower  part  of  the  breast  and  belly  white ;  flanks 
light  yellowish-bay,  the  lower  tail-coverts  with  a  lighter  tint  of 
the  same  color ;  tibial  feathers  cinereous,  spotted  with  gray. 
Legs  and  feet  flesh-color ;  claws  light  horn  color.  Length  5^ 
inches.     Extent  of  wing  8^  inches.  , 

The  female  is  very  similar  to  the  male,  except  that  the  general 
colors  arc  somewhat  fainter. 

Common  on  tho  Columbia  river  in  winter.  Clregarious. 
Voice,  and  general  habits  similar  to  F.  hyemalis. 

Prairie  Finch. 

Fringilla  *bicolor,  (Townsenu,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  7,  part.  IL,  p.  180.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America,  Vol.  IV., 
pi.  .190.     Male  and  female. 

Tho  head  and  back  are  black,  shaded  with  ash ;  rump  ash ; 
superior  tail-coverts  and  tail,  blackish-brown,  the  former  slightly 
edged  with  whi'o ;  all  the  feathers  of  the  latter  tipped  with  white ; 
a  broad  patch  of  white  upon  the  wing  ;  secondaries  and  tertials 
tipped  and  edged  with  white ;  throat,  checks,  and  whole  lower 
parts,  deep  black,  the  feathers  on  the  belly,  and  tho  inferior  tail- 
coverts,  tipped  with  white.  The  upper  mandible  is  of  a  lightish 
brown  color,  the  lower,  pale  bluish-white.  Legs  and  feet  olive- 
brown.     Length  7]  inches.     Extent  about  11  inches. 


.1^ 


AI'PRNOIX. 


847 


L'ral 


■■«: 


olive- 


Tlin  H'tntilu  liflN  tlin  honil,  omi  wholn  uppnr  pnrU,  of  a  light 
iinIi,  ur  i<iiMfri)uiiN  I'ultir,  vuriud  with  bliickiHli ;  lurgt*  |mtcliim  of 
y<t||owiNli«wliiti)  ii|Min  tho  wing-cuvcrtH  ;  throiU  niicl  lirniiMt  vnritxj 
with  lihdtk  mill  whito;  Imlly  white;  ull  thit  laturiil  taiUfuathuri 
ti|)|Ntt|  with  whito  on  thnir  innur  wcibs. 

Thin  vary  pretty  timl  ilintinct  spocicM  inhabitM  ii  portion  of  tlio 
I'lattfl  country,  naNt  oi'tho  iirHt  rango  ol'  tliu  Kocky  MoiintnlnN.  It 
nppoarN  to  Iki  Ntrirlly  grognrious.  FcedH  upon  th*  ground,  along 
wliiidi  it  nniN  Nwillly,  liko  tho  grass  finch  (K  fframinm,)  t<< 
wliiith  it  In  Moiiidwliat  alliod.  As  tho  lurgtt  (lockN,  (ci  nNihtiiu; 
ollm  of  from  nixty  to  a  hundred,)  wrro  started  from  tlin  gro")id 
hy  our  earavan  in  pansing,  tho  piebald  appearaiiee  of  the  inuieH 
and  liiJiiaieN  proniiMeuouHly  iiitnriningl(>d,  proHniiteda  eurioim,  hut 
by  no  niiMitiN  unptonMing  cifoct.  While  the  flock  In  engaged  in 
luAiling,  the  nialen  ant  frequently  observed  to  Hmo  Nudtletil*  i.'  n 
eouNideralih*  height,  and  poising  theinsclveH  over  thuir  eom- 
panioiiN,  with  their  wingN  in  constant  and  rapid  motion,  they  Im;* 
come  nearly  Ntationary.  In  this  situation,  thuy  pour  forth  a 
number  of  very  lively  and  sweetly  modulated  notes,  iitid  at  iJio 
expiration  of  about  a  minute,  descend  to  the  ground,  and  eourMO 
alMiut  BN  iH'fore.  1  never  observed  this  bird  west  of  the  Dlaek  'lilla. 

IIahhis's  Woodpecker. 

lHt'u»  *lliifriiilt  (AuuuiiON,)  Birda  of  America,  Vol.  IV.,  pi. 
417.    Mule  and  female. 

Hill  bliiisli-blaek ;  feathers  covering  tho  nostrils  einereoiiM* 
brown  ;  upper  part  of  the  head,  and  an  oblong  spot  IhiIow  the  uyo, 
back;  a  hI ripe  of  white  commences  in  Iron  i  ;'  tlui  eyo  above, 
and  <<xteiiilN  baitk  to  the  nape,  where  it  is  j>.\;iud  by  a  similar 
stripe,  which  begins  at  the  lower  mandible  ;  tho  sumit^ircle  form* 
od  by  this  while  line,  encloses  the  black  spot,  on  the  auriculorH; 
another  black  lino  commehces  at  the  bate  of  thu  lower  mandible, 
bounding  the  white,  and  is  contin.if  1  down  upon  tho  shoulder, 
where  it  is  Homowhat  ex[)anded  anteriorly;  a  broad  occipital  band, 
rod ;  upper  parts  black  tho  wings  strongly  glossed  with  blue ; 
the  primaries,  geeondaries,  and  a  few  of  the  tertails,  with  numo* 
rous  spots  of  whito  ;  a  stripe  down  the  middle  of  the  back,  white; 
tail  long,  cuneiform,  black,  the  three  exterior  feathers  brownish* 
while;  the  whole  of  the  lower  plumage  is  of  a  deep  sooty*brown, 


348 


APPENDIX. 


whitish  on  the  flanks ;  legs  and  feet  bluish-black.  Iridos  dark 
hazel.     Length  8  inches. 

The  female  differs  from  the  male,  chiefly  in  the  absence  of  the 
red  occipital  band. 

This  species,  so  much  resembling  the  common  P.  villosus,  is 
abundant  in  the  forests  on  the  Columbia  river.  Its  habits  are 
very  similar  to  those  of  its  near  relative.  Builds  a  loose  and  un- 
substantial nest,  in  the  hollow  of  a  decayed  tree,  and  lays  four 
white  eggs. 

Vaux's  Chimney  Swallow. 

Cifpcelus  *  Vauxi,  (Townsend,)  Journal  Acad.  Nat.  Sciences, 
Vol.  8,  part  I.     Female. 

Bill  slender,  black ;  upper  parts  of  a  dull  smoke-brown,  in- 
clining to  blackish  upon  the  interscapular  region ;  shoulders  and 
primary  quills  blackish ;  the  rump  and  tail  are  of  a  much  lighter 
color  than  the  back,  being  dull  cinereous-brown ;  shafts  of  the 
tail-feathers,  and  their  points,  black ;  wings  of  ordinary  length, 
extending  about  two  inches  beyond  the  tail ;  throat,  and  upper 
portion  of  the  breast,  grayish-white ;  belly,  and  all  below,  cine- 
reous-gray. Legs  and  feet  brownish-black.  Iridcs  dark  hazel. 
Length  Sj  inches.  Extent  of  wings  10  inches.  It  diflers  from 
the  C.  pelasgius,  with  which  it  has  been  confounded,  in  several 
very  striking  particulars.  It  is  one  inch  shorter,  and  two  inches 
less  in  extent ;  the  body  is  proportionably  smaller  in  every  aspect, 
and  the  color  much  lighter. 

This  species,  (which  I  dedicate  to  my  friend,  Wm.  S.  Vaux, 
Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,)  is  common  on  the  Columbia  river;  breeds 
in  hollow  trees,  forming  its  nest  in  the  same  manner  as  the  pelas- 
guis,  and  lays  four  white  eggs. 

White-legged  Oystek  Catcher. 

Hamatopus  *Bachmani,  (Audubon.)  Birds  of  America,  Vol. 
IV.,  pi.  427.    Male. 

Bill  yellow,  red  at  base,  and  on  the  superior  portion  of  the 
upper  mandible ;  whole  head,  neck,  and  throat  black ;  back, 
wings,  and  rump,, brownish-fuscous,  varied  with  a  darker  tint ; 
tail  somewhat  rounded,  blackish,  the  feathers  edged  with  lighter; 
flanks  deep  black  ;  belly,  vent,  and  up|)er  tail-coverts,  brownish- 

»•  . 


ArrENDix. 


840 


(lark 


Vaux, 
breeds 
1  pelas- 


of  the 
back, 
r  tint ; 
ighter ; 
twnish- 


fuscous.      Legs  and  feet  white;  claws  yellowish-horn    color; 
eyelids  bright  red ;  irides  yellow.     Length  about  17  inches. 

This  fine  species  was  shot  near  Puget's  sound,  by  my  friend 
William  Fraser  Tolmie,  Esq.,  surgeon  of  the  Honorable  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  by  whom  it  was  presented  to  me.  I  was 
anxious  to  give  to  it  the  name  of  its  discoverer,  but  I  have 
been  overruled  by  Mr.  Audubon,  who  has  probably  had  good 
reasons  for  rejecting  my  p-oposed  specific  appellation,  Tohniei. 

Rocky  Mountain  Plover. 

Charadrius  *montanus,  (Townsend.)  Journal  Acad.  Nat. 
Sciences,  Vol.  7,  part  IL,  p.  192.  Audubon's  Birds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  3.50.     Male. 

Bill  and  lores  black  ;  front  white,  this  color  being  continued 
in  a  narrow  line  over  the  eye  to  the  nape ;  head-brownish-cine- 
reous ;  back  of  the  neck,  and  checks  behind  the  eye,  ycUowish- 
tawney ;  whole  upper  parts  yellowish-cinereous,  varied  with  a 
darker  tint ;  wings  lighter,  the  shoulders  and  flexura  whitish ; 
nearly  all  the  secondaries,  and  some  of  the  primaries,  edged  with 
white ;  upper  tail-coverts,  and  even  tail,  brownish-cinereous,  the 
latter  tipped  with  white  ;  legs  and  feet  yellowish-dusky ;  claws 
black.     Irides  dark  hazel.     Length  8j  inches. 

Inhabits  the  table  land  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  I  saw  but 
one  specimen  of  this  beautiful  bird,  and,  as  our  party  was  on  the 
move,  I  was  compelled  to  kill  it  without  delay. 

Townsend's  Sandpiper. 

*Frinca  *Townscndi,  (Audubon.)  Birds  of  America,  Vol.  IV., 
pi.  428.     Female. 

Bill  yellowish-brown,  black  at  the  point;  a  white  line  below 
the  eye  ;  whole  upper  parts  dark  ashy-cinereous,  the  secondaries 
centred  with  blackish ;  rump  blackish  ;  upper  tail-coverts  pure 
white;  tail  blackish-brown,'  often  feathers,  the  four  lateral  ones 
white  from  their  insertion  half  way  to  the  points,  and  each  tipped 
with  white ;  greater  wing-coverts,  and  bases  of  all  the  primaries, 
white,  forming  a  spot  upon  the  wing  when  closed  ;  throat  white  ; 
breast  grayish-cinereous ;  under  surface  of  the  wings  white ; 
belly,  vent,  and  lower  tail-coverts  white  ;  a  few  oblong  black 
spots,  chiefly  on  the  sides,  and  lower-coverts ;  legs  and  feet 
greenish;  claws  black.     Irides  dark  hazel.     Length  10.^  inches. 


■^ 


350 


AFPENEIX. 


I  shot  one  specimen  of  this  curious  bird  on  the  base  of  the 
rocky  cape  at  the  entrance  of  the  Columbia  river,  in  November 
1836.  It  was  sitting  on  the  edge  of  the  steep  rocks,  and  the 
heavy  surf  frequently  dashed  its  spray  over  it,  as  it  foraged 
among  the  retreating  waves.  When  it  started,  it  flew  with  a 
quick,  jerking  motion  of  its  wing,  and  alighted  again  at  a  short 
distance.  Although  I  resided  for  many  weeks  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  cape,  I  never  saw  a  second  specimen.  The  stomach, 
which  was  remarkably  strong  and  muscular,  contained  fragments 
of  a  small  black  shell  fish,  of  the  genus  Modiola,  which  adheres 
in  clusters  to  the  rocks. 

ViOLET-GHEBN    CoRMORANT. 

Phalacrocorax  *splendena.  (Towns,  in  lit.  to  Audubon.) 
P.  resplendens  (Acdubon.)  Birds  of  America  Vol.  IV.,  pi.  412. 
Female  in  winter. 

Bill  greenish-dusky,  blackish  above ;  front,  light  sea-green, 
wliich  color  passes  behind  the  eye,  and  around  the  gular  region, 
occupying  the  chief  portion  of  the  neck  below;  neck  above, 
deep  Prussian  blue,  with  strong  reflections  of  purple  ;  lateral  part 
of  the  neck  lighter,  with  numerous  minute  specks  of  white, 
formed  by  very  small,  hair-like  feathers ;  whole  upper  parts  deep 
green,  reflecting  shades  of  purple  and  violet ;  wings  greenish, 
varied  with  dusky ;  bare  space  on  the  gullet  contracted,  of  a 
yellowish-red  color  ;  it  includes  the  eye,  but  does  not  extend  in 
front  to  the  lores  ;  tail  long,  rounded,  dusky  ;  below,  the  colors 
are  nearly  the  same  as  the  back  ;  a  few  white  spots  on  the  in- 
ferior portion  of  the  flanks.  Legs  and  feet  black  ;  the  middle 
claw  strongly  pectinated.  Irides  light  sea-green.  Length  about 
2  foet. 

This  most  splendid  of  all  the  species  of  cormorants  yet  disco- 
vei .  (1,  inhabits  in  considerable  numbers  the  Rocky  Cape  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Columbia  river,  upon  the  sides  of  which  it  often 
rests,  and  no  doubt  rears  its  young  within  the  natural  cavities 
which  front  the  tempestuous  ocean,  and  in  situations  wholly  in- 
accessible to  man.  Sometimes  many  weeks  elapse  in  which  not 
a  single  cormorant  is  seen,  when  suddenly  a  flock  of  fifty  or  six- 
ty, is  observed  to  enter  the  bay,  every  individual  of  which  imme- 
diately commences  an  assiduous  search  for  the  small  fish 
and  mollusca  which  constitute  its  food.     It  never  ascends  the 


«-" 


APPHNDIX. 


351 


river,  but  keeping  almomt  coiiMtiintly  around  the  cape,  under  shel- 
ter of  the  enormouB  broukcrm  which  arc  incessantly  dashing 
against  it,  successfully  dofioD  nil  ttttompts  to  shoot  it.  The  pro- 
curing  of  the  only  spocimon  which  I  was  ever  enabled  to  kill, 
almost  cost  the  lives  of  myNolf  tiiid  eight  men.  Our  boat  was 
carried  with  frightful  velocity  into  tlio  furious  breakers,  and  a  full 
hour  was  consumed  in  unrtnnitting  oflbrts  to  escape  the  danger 
towards  which  the  swill  currpnt  wiw  hurrying  us. 

The  Indians  of  the  Ni  W,  const  make  cloaks  of  the  skins  of 
this  bird  sewed  together.  It  ii  probably  even  more  numerous  to 
the  north  of  Cupe  Disnppointmont,  and  must  necessarily  frequent 
less  inaccessible  places. 

Townhewd'h  Co«mo«ant. 

Phalacrocorax  *Tou>mendif{Avi)\]mti.)  Birds  of  America, 
Vol.  IV.,  pi.  413.     Mulo. 

Bill  light-yellow,  black  nbovn ;  crown,  and  upper  part  of  the 
neck  to  the  interscapulars,  yollowlNh-fuscous ;  lateral  part  of  the 
hind-head  and  neck,  pointed  with  whito  like  the  preceding  spe- 
cies ;  middle  of  tho  bock,  rump  and  upper  tail-coverts,  dark 
greenish,  reflecting  purple  ;  tail  long,  dusky  ;  lateral  portion  of 
the  upper  surface  of  tho  body,  including  tho  scapulars  and  wings, 
yellowish-fuscous,  each  ft'(Jth«r  udgod  with  blackish ;  bare  space 
on  the  gullet,  which  ujcludos  tho  oyo,  and  extends  upon  the 
lores,  light  red,  streaked  with  a  deeper  tint ;  sides  of  the  head, 
and  throat  whitish-cineroou*' ;  broust  and  belly  yellowish-rufous, 
slightly  varied  with  dusky  j  vent  and  lower  tail-coverts  dark 
brownish-fuscous ;  a  fow  lon|j;ttudittnl  points  of  white  on  the 
tibial  feathers  ;  legs  and  foot  blat'k.  hides  dark  hazel.  Length 
about  28  inches. 

This  species  inhabits  tho  C-'tjIinnbin  river,  and  is  not  uncom- 
mon. It  is  seldom  seen  f\mr  the  sen,  but  is  mostly  observed 
high  up  upon  the  river.  It  Is,  like  most  species  of  its  genus,  par- 
tially gregarious,  and  is  fond  of  resting  in  company.  The  old 
trees  which  are  fastened  in  tho  bottom  of  the  river,  and  protrude 
above  the  surface,  and  the  isolated  rocks  in  the  stream,  are  its 
favorite  places  of  resort,  lloro  it  sits,  sometimes  for  hours  to- 
gether, indolently  gazing  into  tho  water,  nnd  only  leaving  its 
perch  to  seize  an  unsuspocting  fish,  which  may  happen  to  pass 


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353 


API'HNDIX. 


M 


near  it.     It  is  very  shy  nnd  cautious,  and  is  seldom  killed  even 
by  tho  Indians,  who  uro  Ibnd  of  its  flesh. 

8M'iNPKn<niLi,ED   Guillemot. 
J,  Uria  *TownscntU,  (Auhudon.)  Birds  of  America,  Vol.  IV.,  pi. 

4.30.     Male  and  female. 

Bill  very  slender,  black  j  nostrils  small,  rounded,  open ;  an 
intcrrupteil  circle  of  white  around  the  eye;  head  and  neck  above, 
dark  umber  brown,  slightly  waved  with  blackish  ;  back,  rump,  and 
upper  tail-covorts,  light  ycllowish-fuscuos,  with  broad  transverse 
bands  of  black ;  wings  blackish,  edged  with  grayish-plumbeous, 
the  greater  covert:*  ti|iped  with  white  ;  tail  short,  rounded,  extend- 
ing about  an  inch  beyond  the  closed  wings  ;  throat  cinereous- gray 
waved  transversely  with  a  darker  tint ;  lower  parts  black,  spotted 
with  white;  flanks  white;  legs  and  feet  sulphur  yellow;  claws 
,         black.     Iridos  dark  hazol.     Length  8  inches. 

The  female  has  tho  whole  upper  parts  of  a  dull  cinereous 
color ;  scapulars,  and  a  narrow  occipital  band,  white ;  whole 
^         lower  parts  white;   a   few   black,  longitudinal  streaks  on  the 
flanks.     Length  about  tho  same  as  the  male. 

Inhabits  the  bays  of  the  N.  VV.  Coast  of  America,  in  latitude 
38°  to  40'.  Tho  specimens  were  shot  and  presented  to  me  by 
Captain  W.  Brotchic;,  to  whom  I  am  under  very  great  obligations 
for  tho  addition  to  my  collection  of  several  fine  species. 


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